Classification of Fabric Weave Patterns

Classification of Fabric Weave
Patterns
In the simplest weaving arrangement, alternate warp yarns are over or under the shuttle
as it moves in one direction and the warp yarn positions are reversed for the return
stroke of the shuttle. This weave can be made on a loom with only two harnesses. In
other arrangements, several warp yarns may be moved upward or downward together,
or several filling picks may take place before the warp yarns change position.
The two major categories based on the types of weaves are Basic or Simple
weave and Compound or complex weaves which are further categorized into the
following categories:
Basic/Simple Weaves
1. Plain Weave
2. Twill Weave
3. Satin Weave
Compound/Complex/Novelty Weaves
1. Dobby Weave
2. Jacquard Weave
3. Double Cloth & Double Weave
4. Pique
5. Pile Fabrics
6. Surface Figure Weaves
Basic/Simple Weaves
1. Plain Weave
2. Plain weave, also called taffeta. Filling yarns pass over and
under alternate warp yarns. Other plain weaves are broadcloth, muslin, batiste, percale,
seersucker, organdy, voile, and tweed.
3. Simplest weave requiring a 2 harness loom, formed by yarns at right angles
whereby each warp yarn interlaces with each weft yarn Properties: least
expensive to produce, reversible unless surface design, wrinkles more, firm
& wears well, less absorbent, abrasion resistant, used as background for
printing/ embroidery
○ Rib Weave fabrics: Rib effect is produced by using heavy yarns in the
filling direction or by more warp than
filling yarns per inch. Eg Bengaline, ottoman, faille, poplin,
broadcloth, taffeta.
○ Basket Weave fabrics: Basketweave is made by treating two or more
yarns as one in either the warp or weft or
both the directions and interlacing them in plain weave. It is not as
firm as plain weave, have more yarn slippage, shrinks easily. Eg 2X1,
2X2, 2X4, 3X2, 4X4. Oxford cloth is 2X1 & monk cloth is 4X4. Flat
duck, hopsacking, Panama are other examples.
4. Twill Weave
5. Twill weave. Filling yarns pass over two warp yarns and under a third, and repeat the sequence
for the width of the fabric. The next filling yarn repeats the sequence but shifts one warp yarn
sideways, creating a diagonal pattern. Herringbone, serge, jersey, foulard, gabardine, worsted
cheviot, and drill are twill weaves.
6. Each warp or weft yarn floats across two or more weft or warp yarns with a
progression of interlacing by one to the right or to the left, forming a
distinct diagonal line or wale.
The direction of diagonal may be formed from right to left, from left to right
or a combination of both. Soil resistant, softer & pliable, good wrinkle
recovery, durable & wears well. The direction of the twill on the back of the
cloth is opposite to the twill line on the face. 3 harness is required for twill
weave.
○ Right Hand Twill – diagonals run upwards to the right
○ Left Hand Twill – diagonals run upwards to the left.
○ Balanced Twill – the same number of warp pass over filling yarns. It
is reversible. 2X2, 4X4
○ Unbalanced Twill – have an uneven warp or filling yarn. It has a right
or wrong.
○ Broken Twill – combines right or left-hand twills
○ Herringbone Twill – a series of inverted V’s are formed resembling
the backbone of the
herringbone fish. Most commonly used in suiting fabrics.
○ Twill Angles – according to the angles of the diagonal line, Regular
twill – 45° °
○ Reclining twill – with smaller angles, Steep twill – with larger angles.
E.g.: denim, herringbone, houndstooth
7. Satin Weave
8. Satin weave. Filler yarns pass over a number of warp yarns,

four in this illustration, and under the fifth. Damask, sateen, and crepe satin are satin weaves.
Exposed yarns reflect light and give the weave its sheen.
9. Each warp/ filling yarn floats over 4 filling/ warp yarns & interlaces with 5th
filling/ warp yarn, with a progression of interlacing by 2 to right or left
(warp-faced/ weft faced). Luster (long floats), firm, durable (yarns packed
closely together), pliable, wrinkle resistant,
yarn slippage. Satin is warp faced. Sateen is weft-faced. 5 harness is
required for a satin
weave.
Compound/Complex/Novelty Weaves/ Figure/

Decorative weave
1. Dobby Weave
Small figured designs (floral or geometrical) woven repeatedly throughout
the fabric,
produced by a combination of two or more basic weaves, using a dobby
attachment on
the loom. Weaving pattern controlled by a plastic tape with punched holes
that control
the raising & lowering of warp yarns. It uses up to 32 harnesses.
2. Jacquard Weave
Characteristics: highly intricate large designs using colored yarns and
multi-weaves
produced on a loom with jacquard attachment. Incorporates all 3 basic
weaves & their
combination. Each warp yarn is controlled separately by punched cards
that are laced
together in a continuous strip. Are more expensive. Used for home
furnishing, apparel,
elaborate & decorative fabrics. Eg Brocade, Damask, tapestry, brocatelle,
matelasse
3. Surface Figure /Extra Yarn Weaves
Extra warp or weft yarn introduced in fabric to produce designs at regular
intervals.
Between 2 motifs, extra yarn floats across the back of the fabric.
○ Clipped / unclipped Spot – embroidery-like design is achieved
through either extra warp or weft yarn. Long floats on the back when
a cut is called Clipped Spot & when
uncut – Unclipped Spot.
○ Swivel – contains extra filling yarns. In this weave, the extra yarn is
interlaced with the
background at different places to avoid pulling. These are stronger
than Spot
weave.
○ Lappet – contains extra warp yarns.
4. Pique
Lightweight to heavyweight cotton fabric with a raised woven design.
Lengthwise wales
or cords on the face of fabric (formed by extra warp yarns) that are held in
place by
crosswise weft floats on the back of the fabric. Extra warp yarns (stuffer
yarns) do not show on the face of the fabric. They are not interwoven but
laid under the cords to emphasize the quilted effect. Made of dobby or
jacquard loom. Eg waffle, huck toweling, granite, honeycomb, bedcord,
pique
5. Double Cloth
They are made with 3, 4 or 5 sets of yarn. Two fabrics are woven together
on the same
loom, one above the other & laced together with an extra set of warp or
weft yarns called
binder yarns (5 sets of yarns). Pile fabrics are commonly prepared by this
method.
Produces a variety of fabrics, reversible, stable, may have different color or
design on the
two sides. Used for upholstery, drapery, and heavy apparels

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Classification of Fabric Weave

8. Satin weave. Filler yarns pass over a number of warp yarns,

Compound/Complex/Novelty Weaves/ Figure/

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