Fabric

Fabric
A flexible planar substance constructed from solution, fiber, yarn or fabrics in any
combination which has length width and thickness. Fabric may be categorized as follows

Fabrics

Non-
Woven Knit Film
woven

Woven fabric
Woven fabrics are made by interlacing two sets of yarn at right angle to each other. Woven
fabrics weave may be classified as follows:

Woven

Basic Design

Plain Pile

Twill Dobby

Satin Jacquard

1. Plain Weave: The Plain Woven is the simplest and the most used weave, where each
weft yarn goes alternately under and over each warp. There is only one plain woven but
different twill weaves. Fabric with a plain weave is reversible unless one side is made the
face by finishing or printing.

Plain weave variation

1. Basket weave: the variation of plain weave known as the basket weave uses
doubled yarns to produce the design that resemble the familiar pattern of the
basket. Where two or more warp or weft yarn interlacing as one.
 2. Rib weave: Rib weaves are usually made by having two or more warp yarns
together, interlacing as one yarn with the individual filling yarn or two or more
filing yarns together, interlacing as one yarn with individual warp yarn.

Two harnesses required for above.

2. Twill weave: A weave in which each warp or weft yarn floating over/under two or more
weft or warp yarns to produce diagonal lines on the cloth. This can be as bellow;

1. Z – Twill or right hand Twill: Where diagonal lines run upward to right.
2. S- Twill or left hand Twill: Where diagonal lines are upward to left.
3. Balanced Twill: In a balance twill weave, the number size and distribution of the
warp and weft floats are similar. 2/2, 3/3, 4/4 can be the example.
4. Imbalance twill: In an imbalance twill weave, the number size and distribution of
the warp and weft floats are not similar. 3/1, 2/1 can be the example.
5. Warp face: Where warp produce diagonal line. e.g. 3/1, 2/1
6. Weft face: Where weft produce diagonal line. e.g. 1/3, 1/2
7. Herringbone weave: It has vertical stripes of both right and left handed warp face
twills. Direction in back side are opposite of face.
8. Broken twill: It has vertical stripes of both warp and weft face twills. Direction in
back side are opposite of face.

3. Satin Weave: In a true satin weave, there is only one interlacing for each warp yarn
and only one interlacing for each filing yarn in each repeat of the weave, two interlacing
ever touch or are adjacent. Thus the satin weave fabrics have relatively long floats.

Plain Woven Twill Satin

4. Pile Weave:(Pile men’s hair or fur Latin) Woven pile fabric are made with three set of
yarn, warp for warp ground weft for weft ground and in addition an extra set of either
warp or weft yarns to form the pile surface (Called pile yarn). Pile fabric two types;

1. Cut Pile (Corduroy, Velvet)

3. Uncut Pile (Terry)

6. Dobby Weave: The dobby weave is a patterned weave used to construct design. The
designs are simple, limited in size and usually geometric form. It is made by a loom with a
special harness control mechanism called dobby head, which raises and lowers the
harness, at least sixteen harnesses are typically used in dobby loom.

7. Jacquard Weave: The jacquard weave is also used to construct design relatively
complex and larger in size than dobby design. This loom usually has no harness, the end
being controlled by a jacquard head located at the top of the loom so that any
combination of end can be raised and lowered. Almost any design desired can thus be
made.
 Knitted fabric:
Knitted fabric may be described as structures produced by the interloping of yarn. In
actual construction of the fabric, loops are formed; then new loops drown through
previously formed. The continuing addition of new loops creates the knitted fabric.
Knitted loops are usually referred to as *stitches when they are pulled through another
loop

Knitted
Fabric

Weft Warp

Weft knit:
Weft knitting can be defined as the system of producing a fabric through the interlocking
of loops in weft wise direction. All stitches in a course are made by one yarn. Weft knits
are made as either flat or open width fabric (like woven fabric) on flat knit machine, or as
tubular form on circular knitting machine

Warp knit:
Warp knit can be defined as the system of producing a fabric through the interlocking of
loops in lengthwise direction. A different yarn usually one yarn for each knitting needle
makes each stitch in a course.

Warp Knit Fabric Weft Knit Fabric

 Basic Weft knit Fabrics

Basic Weft
Knit

Single
Jersey Rib Interlock

1. Jersey knit fabric: Jersey fabric is also known as single knit. Fabrics of this type
have all loops drawn to one side of the fabric (all plain stitches) and are most easily
recognized by the face that the smooth side is the face.

2. Rib knit fabric: fabrics of this type are made with alternate wale of plain and purl
stitch on both side of the fabric.

3. Interlock: Interlock knitted fabric is variation of rib knits, where columns of Wales
are directly behind each other.

Single Jersey Fabric Rib Fabric Interlock Fabric