Buttercup Top
Buttercup Top
Buttercup Top
Buttercup Top
Light, lacy, and airy, the Buttercup Top is perfect for breezy warm days. This crochet tee pairs
beautifully with cutoff shorts, capris, or skirts. This intermediate pattern is written tutorial style,
meaning it can be made in any size required! Any dk or sport weight yarn can be used, however
I highly recommend using natural fibres such as bamboo, silk, cotton, or linen, as they provide a
lovely drape that compliments the flouncy sleeves and trim along the bottom of the top.
This top is constructed in flat pieces. Starting with the front panel, the left and right
shoulders and neckline are worked separately before being joined together and worked as one
piece to create the remainder of the front. A back piece is worked up and the two are joined
together at the sides, and the bottom lace border is worked in the round on both front and back.
The shoulders are then joined together, then the sleeves are worked in the round.
Notes:
● As stated earlier, this pattern is written in a way that accommodates for all sizes, yarn
weights, gauges, and hook sizes. This pattern does not include strict numbers,
measurements, or gauges! I will include the number of stitches I used for my size as a
reference throughout the tutorial. I used a 4.25 mm hook and 550 g of a sport weight
cotton/silk blend yarn to complete this project.
● While any yarn and hook can be used for this project, I highly recommend a DK or finer
weight yarn and a larger hook than recommend on the yarn label to showcase the lacy
details and compliment the structure of the top best.
● This pattern is worked in turned rows, and transitions into working in the round to
complete the sleeves and bottom lace band. Work in rows unless otherwise specified.
● If you have any questions or queries about the pattern, or if you’re stuck, please email
me at crochet.by.becks@gmail.com and I will gladly do my best to help you out!
This stitch looks complicated, but is much easier to do than you may think!
After creating your foundation round, you will be left with alternating sc and shell sts. The most
basic rule of thumb for the closed shell stitch is to place shells in the sc sts of the prev row, and
place sc sts on the 3rd dc of each shell from the prev row. To keep your work even (with the
exception of the increase rows) , the ends of your work will always start or end with a sc, or
with a half shell (3 dc in same st). If your previous row starts or ends with a sc, work a half shell
into that st. If the previous row starts or ends with a half shell, work a sc into the top of the half
shell.
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Instructions:
Left Front:
1) Ch a multiple of 6 +1, this length should reach from your neck to shoulder. To this number, ch
an additional 3. Dc in 6th st from hook. Ch 1, dc in same st (v st made). Sk 2 chs, dc in next st,
*sk 2 chs, v st, sk 2 chs, dc in next ch* across.
Repeat step 2 until piece measures from top of shoulder to 1.5 inches below underarm. I made
a total of 11 rows.
*The width of the armhole is determined by how many rows of step 2 are made. For a tighter
armhole, only work until piece is directly underneath the underarm.*
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3) Ch 1, sc in same st. *5dc in ch 1 sp of v st from prev row, sc in dc of prev row* across. You
have now created your foundation for the solid shell pattern!
We will now create an increase on both sides to shape the armhole and prepare for increasing
the neckline.
4) Ch 3, 4dc in same st (inc made). continue in solid shell pattern across (shell st in sc space, sc
at top of next shell) until you reach the last sc st. 5dc in sc of prev row (inc made).
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5) Ch 3 , 2dc in same st. Continue in solid shell pattern until you reach last shell of row. Sc in
3rd dc of shell, 3dc in 5th dc of shell (half shell made).
7) We will create the v-neckline by making increases only on one side. Ch 3, 4dc in same st (inc
made), continue solid shell pattern across.
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8) Continue in solid shell pattern until you reach last shell. Sc in 3rd dc of shell, 3dc in 5th dc of
shell.
Continue working in this manner, making increases according to steps 7-9, placing increases on
one side every two rows, until work is desired width- about half of the width of your front
measurement, or 1-4 of your chest circumference. Use a stitch marker in order to remember
which side you are increasing on if that helps you!
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This part can get a little tricky, but here is a general rule that can help:
It does not matter which row of the increase section you finish on, but make sure your final row
ends on the non increased side. Fasten off your work.
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Right Front:
Repeat steps 1-9 to create the right side, but do not fasten off once the increases for the
neckline have been completed.
10) Continue in solid shell pattern until you reach the last sts of right piece. Join 2 pieces
together by inserting your hook through both pieces and continuing the solid shell pattern based
on what st comes next:
11) Continue solid shell st across for next and each row until top reaches 1-2 inches above belly
button, making sure your shell pattern ends on a row that starts and ends with a sc, not a half
shell. Fasten off.
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12) Count the number of full shells across the front and subtract one. Multiply this number by 6
and add 1. This is your starting ch. (ex, I had 13 shells across the front of my piece. 13-1 = 12.
12 x 6 = 72, + 1 = 73 chs).
To this number, add 3 additional chs. Dc in 6th st from hook, ch 1, dc in same st (v st made). Sk
2 chs, dc in next st, *sk 2 chs, v st in next st, sk 2 chs, dc in next st* across.
13) Follow and repeat step 2 of Front, making your lace panel match the same number of rows.
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Work evenly in solid shell st until back piece is same length and has the same number of rows
as front piece. Do not fasten off.
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14) Ch 1, working along the side and through both pieces, sc across, placing a st in each dc
post and sc base. Ensure your pieces are aligned while doing this! Sc up the side of the
garment until you reach your 1st inc shell, right underneath the underarm. Fasten off.
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15) Attach yarn at same point on opposite side of top, and work your way down the other side of
the top in the same way (sc through both layers, placing a st in each dc post and sc base. Do
not fasten off.
16) Ch 3 (counts as dc), cluster v st in 3rd dc of next shell, *dc in next sc sp, cluster v st in 3rd
dc of next shell* across. Sl st into top of ch 3.
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18) Ch 3, dc, ch 1, 2dc in same st (counts as cluster v st). Cluster v st in each ch 1 sp around. Sl
st into top of ch 3 at start of rnd.
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19) Ch 4, (counts as dc + ch 1) *dc into next st, ch 1, dc into ch sp, ch 1, dc into next st, ch 1, dc
into next st, sc into ch 1 sp of next cluster v st. *dc into 1st dc of next cluster v st, ch 1, dc in next
st, ch 1, dc in ch sp, ch 1, dc in next st, ch 1, dc in next st, sc in ch sp of next cluster v st*
across. Sl st into 3rd ch of ch4 at start of rnd. Fasten off.
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Right Sleeve:
20) Starting at neckline, sc front and back pieces together across shoulder, making sure to line
the pattern up on both sides. Sl st into dc post along side. We will now be working in the
round to complete the sleeves. Ch 3 (counts as dc), v st in next post. *dc in next post, v st in
next post* across, sl st into ch 3.
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21) Ch 3, cluster v st into ch sp of next v st. *dc in next single dc from prev rnd, cluster v st in ch
sp of next v st* across. Sl st into ch 3 at start of rnd.
Neckline:
22) Attach yarn at first dc post below shoulder seam. Working along the side of the garment, Ch
1, sc, ch 3, sc in same post. *sc, ch 3, sc* in each post across until you reach 1 post before
bottom point of v-neck. Sc2tog between two centre posts. *sc, ch 3, sc* in next post and each
acros. Sl st into first sc, fasten off.
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Weave in all ends and turn right side out to hide your shoulder and side seams.
Pattern created by Rebecca Dagmar of Daisy and Dime Crochet. By using this pattern, you
agree to not distribute this pattern in any way, either for free or for sale. Please feel free to sell
your handmade recreations of this pattern, all I ask is for you to credit me for the design!
Stay Wild!