NACO Formulation Event Slides

FORMULATION OF NATURAL COSMETIC
PRODUCTS
Dr Brian G O’Rourke
‘NATURAL’ COSMETIC
Ò Natural Products Association: ‘Must contain
minimum 95% natural ingredients’
Ò ‘Natural Ingredients ‘……come or are made
from a renewable resource found in
nature (flora, fauna, mineral), …… with
absolutely no petroleum compounds……’
Ò A synthetic non-natural ingredient can be used
only when there is not a readily available
natural alternative ingredient
COSMETIC PRODUCTION, THE PAST……
Ò Products often manufactured in

unhygienic conditions.
Ò Stability untested, no shelf-life.
Ò Contamination with bacteria, yeasts,

moulds??
Ò Package interaction?
Ò E.U. Cosmetic Products Notification Portal

PRODUCT REGISTRATION: REGULATION (EC) N°
1223/2009.
Ò Cosmetic Ò Health Products

Products Regulatory
Notification Authority (HPRA)
Portal Ò (IRELAND)
Ò (EU)
COSMETIC PRODUCTS NOTIFICATION PORTAL
(CPNP)
Ò Requires:
Ò Formulation (INCI) details - with %
RANGES
Ò Knowledge of particular toxins,
solvents, etc.
Ò Safety of ingredients in particular
categories…eyes, lips, etc.
HEALTH PRODUCTS REGULATORY AUTHORITY
Ò Product Information File (PIF)…includes

Ò Detailed information on (a) stability of the
product and (b) preservative efficacy test [PET]
Ò Manufacturing formulation and procedure of
manufacture.
Ò Cosmetic Product Safety Report
(CPSR)…..toxicology, irritation/sensitization..
PRESERVATIVE EFFICACY TEST (PET)
Ò Pathogenic bacteria, e.g. Staph. aureus
Ò Cause skin, blood infections, etc.

YEASTS AND MOULDS
Ò Aspergillus niger
STABILITY PROTOCOL
Ò 12-Week storage at 4OC, Room Temperature

(Dark), Room Temperature Daylight, 40OC
Ò Visual, odour, colour.
Ò Microscopic
Ò pH
Ò Viscosity
STABILITY: VISUAL
Clear collar at top

STABLE EMULSION: MICROSCOPE - TINY
DROPLETS
INSTABILITY: MICROSCOPIC EVIDENCE
PACKAGING COMPATIBILITY
Ò Glass impervious to penetration by product
Ò Plastics may have plasticiser leached out giving a
damaged brittle package (panelling of plastic bottle;
stress-cracking).
Ò Plastics may be discoloured/stained; oils may leach

through package walls causing labels to fall off.
SENSITISATION, IRRITATION - FINN CHAMBERS
24HRS LATER….
HYGIENIC MANUFACTURE…???
INCI NAME
Ò Glycerol, Glycerine - Glycerin

Ò Water – Aqua
Ò Sugar – sucrose
Ò Perfume – parfum
Ò Shea butter – Butyrospermum parkii
Ò Aloe vera – Aloe barbedensis

TYPICAL EMULSION – MICROSCOPIC
VIEW
CONSIDER A SALAD DRESSING
Add energy
Shake Hard
Shake Harder , Blender
OIL
OIL
WATER/VINEGAR
HIGH ENERGY HIGHER ENERGY

LOW ENERGY More unstable
Unstable emulsion
EMULSIFIER
Ò Barrier between water droplets

Ò Imparts either a charge (‘ionic’) or coating
(‘non-ionic’) to droplets
EMULSIFIED DROPLET 2.
APPROACH….
CREAM RUBBED ‘INTO’ SKIN
Evaporation
SKIN
BEHAVIOUR OF CREAMS/EMULSIONS/MILKS ON
SKIN
Ò 1. No such thing as ‘rub-in’
Ò 2. Evaporation of water from product.
Ò 3. Remnant fatty phase remains on the

skin
Top5Mod
EMULSIONS, MANUFACTURE
Ò Usually by heating an oily phase and an

aqueous phase separately to ca. 70OC
Ò Phases blended either with or without high
shear homogenisation.
Ò Mixture cooled to 40OC
Ò Other ingredients, drug actives, colour, perfume

added.
Top5mod
SOAP BUBBLES
Glass tube
Ò Bubbles joined by tube – open tap – result?

Top5mod
EMULSIONS
Ò To be stable:
Ò Dispersed droplets should be same size
Ò Ideally droplets should be very small

EQUIPMENT: BASICS
Ò Floor-balance for weighing > 5kg

Ò Bench balance for smaller quantities
Ò Selection of glass and plastic jugs, glass or

steel beakers1-2 ladles, palette-knives (one
large, one small), hot-plate(s), source of
deionized (not softened) water.
Ò Mixing…?
HOMOGENISER
HIGH-SHEAR JACKETED MIXING VESSEL
NATURALS VS SYNTHETICS
Ò Properties of naturals vary from year to year.

Ò Colour, odour, viscosity/thickness
Ò Conventional (Petroleum) Triglyceride

COMMONLY USED NATURAL MATERIALS
Ò Sodium hyaluronate and xanthan gum -

produced from a biofermentation process.
Ò Sustainably sourced vegetable oils, fats, waxes.
Ò Emulsiifiers produced from derivatization of

olive oil, sucrose, sunflower oils, etc.
THICKENERS
Ò Gums such as xanthan gum (Keltrol), guar

(Jaguar), locust bean gum.
Ò Very difficult to get sparkling clarity in naturals
PROBLEMS IN MANUFACTURE
Ò Emulsions after large-scale manufacture

always thinner than those made in
development.
Ò Water losses in heating of phases need to be
accounted for (110% rule)
SOURCES OF INFORMATION
Ò Publications:
Ò Cosmetics & Toiletries
https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/
Ò Soap Perfumery& Cosmetics: SPC
Ò Happi: https://www.happi.com/
Ò Society of Cosmetic Scientists:
https://www.scs.org.uk/
Ò Beauty Packaging:
https://www.beautypackaging.com/issues/2021-
10-01/
SUPPLIERS
Ò Azelis: https://www.azelis.com/en/contact
Ò Charles Tennant:
http://www.charlestennant.com/
Ò Chesham Chemicals:
sales@cheshamchemicals.co.uk
Ò Evonik: https://www.dr-
straetmans.de/en/products/
Face Cream
Phase A
Glyceryl Monostearate 2.20
Cetostearyl Alcohol 2.20
Olivem 1000 2.00
Argan Oil 6.00
Jojoba Oil 4.00
Sweet Almond Oil 4.00
Avocado Oil 2.00
Phase B
Water 67.45
Glycerine 1.50
Butylene Glycol 1.50
Phase C
Phenoxyethanol 0.10
Caprylyl Glycol 0.10
Phase D
Shea Butter 3.00
Tocopherol 2.00
Willow Bark Extract 0.80
Wheatgerm oil 0.50
Hyaluronic Acid 0.05
Apricot Kernel Oil 0.60
100.00

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FORMULATION OF NATURAL COSMETIC

Ò Products often manufactured in

Ò Contamination with bacteria, yeasts,

Ò E.U. Cosmetic Products Notification Portal

Ò Cosmetic Ò Health Products

Ò Product Information File (PIF)…includes

Ò Pathogenic bacteria, e.g. Staph. aureus

Ò Cause skin, blood infections, etc.

Ò 12-Week storage at 4OC, Room Temperature

Clear collar at top

Ò Plastics may be discoloured/stained; oils may leach

Ò Glycerol, Glycerine - Glycerin

Ò Shea butter – Butyrospermum parkii

Ò Aloe vera – Aloe barbedensis

HIGH ENERGY HIGHER ENERGY

Ò Barrier between water droplets

Ò 3. Remnant fatty phase remains on the

Ò Usually by heating an oily phase and an

Ò Other ingredients, drug actives, colour, perfume

Ò Bubbles joined by tube – open tap – result?

Ò Ideally droplets should be very small

Ò Floor-balance for weighing > 5kg

Ò Selection of glass and plastic jugs, glass or

Ò Properties of naturals vary from year to year.

Ò Conventional (Petroleum) Triglyceride

Ò Sodium hyaluronate and xanthan gum -

Ò Emulsiifiers produced from derivatization of

Ò Gums such as xanthan gum (Keltrol), guar

Ò Emulsions after large-scale manufacture

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