Aha Fruits Formula

Vitis vinifera Fragaria vesca
Vaccinium myrtillus Prunus persica
PARIS LONDON
25, rue Georges Bizet Edelman House, 1238 High Rd.
92000 NANTERRE WHETSTONE - LONDON N20 OLH
T. 33 (0)1 4242 0505 Fax 33 (0)1 4242 3202 T. 44 (0)20 8492 5600 Fax 44 (0)20 8446 2670
A.H.A. EXTRACT
fruits formula
A.H.A Extract fruits formula is a compound of α-Hydroxy Acids (AHA’s)

obtained from vegetal hydro-glycolic Extracts.
This complex of hydro-glycolic extracts is vegetal blend resulting from a

specific manufacturing process, allowing to extract water-soluble and
aromatic parts of each fruit.
COMBINED PLANTS :
CTFA name INCI name
APRICOT Prunus armeniaca

GUAVA Psidium guajava
GRAPEFRUIT Citrus grandis
GRAPE Vitis vinifera
MANGO Mangifera indica
PEACH Prunus persica
STRAWBERRY Fragaria vesca
RASPBERRY Rubus idaeus
CAS n° EINECS n°
APRICOT 68650-44-2 272-046-1

GUAVA 90045-46-8 289-907-2
GRAPEFRUIT 90045-43-5 289-904-6
GRAPE 84929-27-1 284-511-6
MANGO 90063-86-8 290-045-4
PEACH 84012-34-0 281-678-7
STRAWBERRY 84929-78-2 284-556-1
RASPBERRY 84929-76-0 284-554-0
Trading name : AHA EXTRACT fruits formula

DERMO-COSMETIC ACTIVITY
Many researches led by Doctors Van Scott and Yu have shown that Alpha-
Hydroxy Acids (AHA) act by decreasing the cells cohesion in the cornea
stratum so they are better eliminated, while the cells renewal is accelerated.
AHA thus furthers the cutaneous hydration process.
AHA contained in the AHA EXTRACT fruits formula, with their low
concentration (5 %), allows maintaining or restoring the skin's acid surface
and so to strengthen the natural defence process. They also have a real
moisturising action as well as a surface-cleaning action.
Are added the complementary properties of the utilised fruits : astringent,

tonic, purifying.
CHARACTERISTIC ACIDS
CITRIC ACID GLYCOLIC ACID LACTIC ACID MALIC ACID

0.90 - 1.20 % 2.25 - 2.75 % 0.90 - 1.10 % 0.40 - 0.60 %
ACIDS FORMULAS
Citric COOH
C 6 H8 O 7 |
COOH  CH2  C  CH2  COOH
|
OH
Glycolic HO — CH2 — COOH

C 2 H4 O 3
Lactic CH3 — CH — COOH
C 3 H6 O 3 |
OH
Malic COOH — CH2 — CH — COOH

C 4 H6 O 5 |
OH
MANUFACTURING PROCESS
The different extracts are products issued from a special and specific
manufacturing process applied on herbs, and treated in order to mix
aromatic and water-soluble parts.
FRUIT Determination of the best

harvest period.
Control of the plant’s quality.
⇓
GRINDING In order to increase the
contact area.
⇓
SOLVENT 1
EXTRACTION Extraction techniques are
SOLVENT 2 specific for each treated plant.
⇓
FILTRATION Result : less than 100 germs/ml.
and /or
FLASH PASTEURIZATION
⇓
A.H.A. EXTRACT
fruits formula
QUALITY CONTROL
A quality control policy is operated at all stages of the manufacturing

process.
1) SELECTION OF RAW MATERIALS
Each batch of plants is identified and a sample is sent to the Control

Laboratory to be compared to our minimum quality standards, with special
attention to organoleptic and microscopic characteristics.
2) CONFORMITY CONTROLS
All the characteristics of our products are controlled and compared to

conformity standard. These controls are made on :
- organoleptic characteristics (aspect, colour, odour)

- physico-chemical characteristics (solubility, density, pH, refraction index,
presence of active ingredients...)
- microbiological characteristics (yeast, mould, aerobe germs...).
Each batch is individualised with a control number and a detailed control

certificate.
COSMETIC APPLICATIONS
The use of the AHA EXTRACT fruits formula is ideal to optimise

moisturising care products (for dry as for oily skins) or cleaning lines (milks,
tonic lotions, scrubs) targeted on the cleanness and the purification of all
types of skins.
The AHA EXTRACT fruits formula can be also used in all astringent, tonic
or purifying skin and hair care products.
AHA EXTRACT fruits formula is recommended for creams, lotion and gels
formulations with moisturizing and peeling action. It helps cell renewal.
Concentration for use :
in shower gel and hydrating bubble bath products 2-5%

in cream, lotion and peelings gel 4-8%
This product could also be used in concentrations higher than 8 % but in these cases
it should be considered for professional use, under medical suggestions
EXCLUSIVELY FOR EXTERNAL USE
WAREHOUSING
Temperature below or equal to 25°C.

Protection against freezing is necessary
Containers should always keep closed
Product should be used shortly after opening.
A.H.A. EXTRACT fruits formula
TECHNICAL DATA
➊ BOTANICAL COMPONENTS
Apricot fruit
Guava fruit
Grapefruit fruit
Mango fruit
Strawberry fruit
Raspberry fruit
Peach fruit
Grape fruit
➋ ORGANOLEPTIC CHARACTERISTICS
Appearance limpid liquid

Colour clear orange
Odour slight
➌ PHYSICO-CHEMICAL CHARACTERISTICS
Solvent Propylene glycol/Water (47/53)

pH 5 ± 0.5
Refraction index 1.400 ± 0.010
Density 1.075 ± 0.010
Dry residue 10 ± 1
Preservative 0.25 % Phenonip
➍ ACTIVE INGREDIENT
Citric acid 0.90 - 1.20 %

Glycolic acid 2.25 - 2.75 %
Lactic acid 0.90 - 1.10
Malic acid 0.40 - 0.60 %
➍ MICROBIOLOGICAL CHARACTERISTICS
Total germs < 100 /ml

Yeast and mould absence
Total bacterial charge absence
➎ SAFETY DATA
Transport by air / by sea way not ruled

Regulations not classified according EEC rules
Storage in a cool airy room
BIBLIOGRAPHY
PARIS & MOYSE, Matière Médicale I, II, III, Paris, France
DORVAULT, L'officine XXIIe, Ed. Vigot, Paris, France
BEZANGER & BEAUQUESNE. Plantes médicinales des régions tempérées, Ed. Mabine,
Paris, France
BRUNETON, Pharmacognosy, Phytochemistry medicinal plants, Ed. Lavoisier, Paris, France
GRIEVE, A Modern Herbal, Ed. Tiger, London U.K.
______________________
HERMITTE R., « Aged skin, Retinoids and Alpha Hydroxy Acids », 1992, Cosmetics &
Toiletries 107, 7, p. 63-66
SMITH W.P., « Hydroxy Acids and Skin Aging », 1994, Cosmetics & Toiletries 109, 9, p. 41
VAN SCOTT E.I., « Control of Keratinization with Alpha Hydroxy Acids and related
compounds », 1974, Arch. Dermatol. 110, p. 586
VAN SCOTT E.I., « Hyperkeratinization, Corneocyte Cohesion and Alpha Hydroxy Acids »,
1984, J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 11, p. 867
GREAVES M., « Topical Alpha Hydroxy Acid Derivative for Relieving Dry Itching Skin »,
1990, Cosmetics & Toiletries 105, 9, p. 61-64

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Vitis vinifera Fragaria vesca

Vaccinium myrtillus Prunus persica

A.H.A Extract fruits formula is a compound of α-Hydroxy Acids (AHA’s)

This complex of hydro-glycolic extracts is vegetal blend resulting from a

CTFA name INCI name

APRICOT Prunus armeniaca

APRICOT 68650-44-2 272-046-1

Trading name : AHA EXTRACT fruits formula

Are added the complementary properties of the utilised fruits : astringent,

CITRIC ACID GLYCOLIC ACID LACTIC ACID MALIC ACID

Glycolic HO — CH2 — COOH

Malic COOH — CH2 — CH — COOH

FRUIT Determination of the best

A quality control policy is operated at all stages of the manufacturing

1) SELECTION OF RAW MATERIALS

Each batch of plants is identified and a sample is sent to the Control

All the characteristics of our products are controlled and compared to

- organoleptic characteristics (aspect, colour, odour)

Each batch is individualised with a control number and a detailed control

The use of the AHA EXTRACT fruits formula is ideal to optimise

Concentration for use :

in shower gel and hydrating bubble bath products 2-5%

EXCLUSIVELY FOR EXTERNAL USE

Temperature below or equal to 25°C.

Appearance limpid liquid

Solvent Propylene glycol/Water (47/53)

Citric acid 0.90 - 1.20 %

Total germs < 100 /ml

Transport by air / by sea way not ruled

PARIS & MOYSE, Matière Médicale I, II, III, Paris, France

DORVAULT, L'officine XXIIe, Ed. Vigot, Paris, France

BRUNETON, Pharmacognosy, Phytochemistry medicinal plants, Ed. Lavoisier, Paris, France

GRIEVE, A Modern Herbal, Ed. Tiger, London U.K.

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