CARDIGAN NO.

9 #CARDIGANNO9
ABOUT CARDIGAN NO. 9
Cardigan No. 9 is a classic, slightly oversized cardigan featuring distinctive saddle shoulders, which which add
character and catch the eye. The back and yoke are shaped with short rows to ensure a good fit. The sleeves are
wide at the top and taper towards the wrist, with the sleeve cap shaped using short rows. The neckline consists of
a double-knitted section and a ribbed edge, adding an extra touch of elegance to the cardigan.

SIZES
XS (S) M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL)

MEASUREMENTS
Circumference: 104 (109) 119 (124) 131 (138) 146 (153) cm [41 (43) 47 (49) 51.5 (54.25) 57.5 (60.25) inches]
Length (center back): 53 (54) 56 (57) 59 (61) 63 (65) cm [20.75 (21.75) 22 (22.5) 23.25 (24) 24.75 (25.5) inches]

SUGGESTED NEEDLES
5 mm [US 8] circular needles (80 or 100 cm [32 or 40 inches])
4 mm [US 6] circular needles (80 or 100 cm [32 or 40 inches])
3 mm [US 4] circular needles (40 or 80 cm [16 or 32 inches])

GAUGE
In stocking stitch using 5 mm [US 8].

16 sts / 23 rows = 10 x 10 cm [4 x 4 inches].

The given gauge is measured after washing and blocking.

MATERIALS
500 (500) 500 (600) 600 (600) 700 (700) g Håndværksgarn, Hjelholt Uldspinderi, 200 m / 100 g.

held together with…

100 (125) 125 (125) 150 (150) 150 (175) g Soft Silk Mohair, Knitting for Olive, 225 m / 25 g.

or…

350 (350-400) 400 (450) 500 (500) 500 (550) g Heavy Merino, Knitting for Olive, 125 m / 50 g.

held together with…

100 (125) 125 (125) 150 (150) 150 (175) g Soft Silk Mohair, Knitting for Olive, 225 m / 25 g.

or…

350 (350) 400 (400) 450 (450) 500 (550) g Woolia, Gepard, 133 m / 50 g.
Here shown in colour 330, ‘Blood Orange’.

held together with…

100 (125) 125 (125) 150 (150) 150 (175) g Soft Silk Mohair, Knitting for Olive, 225 m / 25 g.
Here shown in colour ’Blood Orange’.

Buttons
5 (5) 6 (6) 6 (6) 6 (6) round buttons, Ø = 22 mm [7/8 inch] or toggle buttons with a length of 30-35 mm [1.25
inches].

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BEFORE YOU BEGIN
It is important to make a gauge swatch to ensure that the needle size gives you the correct gauge. Any deviation in
gauge may result in incorrect proportions for your cardigan.

Size guide
Cardigan No. 9 has an oversized fit. Calculate a positive ease of approx. 20-25 cm [8-10 inches] for sizes XS-XL and
approx. 15-20 cm [ 6-8 inches] for sizes 2XL-4XL. The positive ease is designed to provide the most flattering fit
for each size.
Sizes XS (S) M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) and a chest measurement of approx. 80-85 (85-90) 90-95 (95-100) 100-110
(110-120) 120-130 (130-140) cm [31.5-33.5 (33.5-35.5) 35.5-37.5 (37.5-39.5) 39.5-43.25 (43.25-47.25) 47.25-
51.25 (51.25-55.25) inches].

For example: You measure 88 cm [34.75 inches] at your widest + 20-25 cm [7.75-9.75 inches] = 108-113 cm [42.5-
44.5 inches]. Therefore, you should knit a size S, which has a finished circumference of 109 cm [42.75 inches].

Introduction to the workflow

First, the two shoulders are worked. Then, the back is worked by picking up stitches along the back of both
shoulders and casting on stitches for the neck with a knitted cast-on. The back is shaped with short rows. The
front pieces are formed by picking up stitches along the front edge of the two shoulders. The front pieces are also
shaped with short rows. At the same time, increases are made for the neckline. Once the front pieces are
completed, the front and back are joined on a circular needle, and the body is finished. Then, the sleeves are
worked from stitches picked up along the sleeve edge. The sleeve cap is formed with short rows. Then, the sleeves
are worked in the round on a circular needle. Finally, two front edges are worked, followed by the neckline. At the
end, the buttons are sewn on.

Increases
Increases are worked so that they slant either to the right (M1R/M1Rp) or to the left (M1L/M1Lp).

Right-leaning increase
M1R: With your left needle, pick up the bar from back to front and knit.
M1Rp: With your left needle, pick up the bar from back to front and purl.

Left-leaning increases
M1L: With your left needle, pick up the bar from front to back and knit through the back loop.
M1Lp: With your left needle, pick up the bar from front to back and purl through the back loop.

Ribbing
All ribbed edges are worked in single rib, that is: *k1, p1*.

Decreases
Decreases are worked as either k2tog or ssk.

k2tog: Knit 2 stitches together.

ssk: Slip 2 stitches knitwise, one at a time, then knit these 2 stitches together through the back loops.

SHORT ROWS
To shape the back, short rows are worked.
You can use the method you prefer. German Short Rows give a beautiful and nearly invisible result.

TIP! Not familiar with the method? Watch here to learn how:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z-E3YSHPQYs&t=4s

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BEGIN YOUR WORK HERE

SADDLE HOULDERS
Cast on 21 (21) 23 (23) 23 (24) 24 (24) sts using 5 mm [US 8] circular needles.

From here, work back and forth in stocking stitch.

1st row (WS): Purl all sts.

2nd row (RS): Knit all sts.

Continue like this until you have worked a total of 40 (42) 44 (46) 48 (50) 50 (52) rows. The last row is a RS row.

Break the yarn and leave the stitches on hold using a helping needle or waste yarn.

Work the second shoulder the same way as the first.

BACK
Now, the back is shaped. Stitches will be picked up along one long edge of the shoulders using a 5 mm [US 8]
circular needle, and new sts for the neck will be cast on as follows:

Begin at the resting sts on the outer edge of one saddle shoulder and work towards the cast-on edge. Pick up sts in
2 out of every 3 sts, a total of 26 (28) 30 (31) 32 (33) 33 (34) m. Then, cast on 21 (21) 23 (23) 23 (25) 25 (25)
new sts (as continuation) using the knitted cast-on method = neck’s sts.

NOTE! To make a knitted cast-on, while making the cast-on, turn WS facing up. See here for how it is done:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2jfkxdMKhHw

After the cast-on, continue from the RS. Pick up 26 (28) 30 (31) 32 (33) 33 (34) sts along the other saddle
shoulder. Start from the cast-on edge and work towards the resting sts.

You now have 73 (77) 83 (85) 87 (91) 91 (93) sts on your needles.

Break the yarn, turn WS facing up, and move the first 26 (28) 30 (31) 32 (33) 33 (34) sts (= right shoulder’s sts) to
the right side of the circular needle so that the first sts to be worked are those cast on for the neck.

Now shape the back with short rows.

1st step (WS): Attach new yarn and p the next 21 (21) 23 (23) 23 (25) 25 (25) sts (=necks’s sts), leaving the 26
(28) 30 (31) 32 (33) 33 (34) sts on the left needle. Turn. You are now on RS.
2nd step (RS): K the next 24 (24) 26 (26) 26 (28) 28 (28) sts = 22 (24) 26 (27) 28 (29) 29 (30) sts left on the left
needle. Turn. You are now on WS.
3rd step (WS): P the next 28 (28) 30 (30) 30 (32) 32 (32) sts, until 22 (24) 26 (27) 28 (29) 29 (30) sts remaining
on the left needle. Turn. You are now on RS.

Continue working short rows, turning 4 sts after the last turn st on each row. That is, k/p to your latest turn st, k/p
this st, k/p an additional 4 sts, then turn. Work as follows:

1st row (RS): K to4 sts after your last turn. Turn.
2nd row (WS): P to 4 sts after your last turn. Turn.

Alternate 1st and 2nd row a total of 5 (5) 6 (6) 6 (7) 7 (7) times. This means you've turned a total of 6 (6) 7 (7) 7
(8) 8 (8) times on each side, and you've worked a total of 13 (13) 15 (15) 15 (17) 17 (17) rows.

The final turn is made 2 (4) 2 (3) 4 (1) 1 (2) sts before end of row on the WS of your work.

Now work back and forth over the back’s 73 (77) 83 (85) 87 (91) 91 (93) sts. Keep the stitch count constant.

1st row (RS): Knit all sts.

2nd row (WS): Purl all sts.

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Work 1st – 2nd row a total of 14 (15) 16 (17) 17 (17) 17 (17) times (a total of 28 (30) 32 (34) 34 (34) 34 (34)
rows have been worked).

Now work increases to shape the armhole.

1st row (RS): K3, M1L, k to 3 sts remaining, M1R, k3.

2nd row (WS): Purl all sts.

Work 1st – 2nd row a total of 3 (3) 4 (5) 5 (5) 8 (10) times.

You now have added 6 (6) 8 (10) 10 (10) 16 (20) sts to your work. You have 79 (83) 91 (95) 97 (101) 107 (113)
sts on your needles.

Break the yarn and let the back piece rest while working the two front pieces.

RIGHT FRONT
Start at the end with the resting sts on the right shoulder (on the right when wearing the cardigan) and pick up 26
(28) 30 (31) 32 (33) 33 (34) sts along the remaining long side with a 5 mm [US 8] circular needle. The number of
sts corresponds to 2 out of 3 sts. So; pick up in 2 sts, skip 1 st, pick up in 2 sts, skip 1 st, etc.

First row is a WS row.

Work as follows:
1st row (WS): P4, turn.
2nd row (RS): K all sts.
3rd row (WS): P to 4 sts after the last turn, turn.
4th row (RS): Knit all sts.

From here, work increases to shape the neckline while you continue working short rows.
NOTE! Be aware that the increases are worked on the WS of the work.

Work as follows:
1st row (WS): P3, M1Rp, p to 4 sts sts after the last turn, turn.
2nd row (RS): Knit all sts.

Work 1st - 2nd row a total of 4 (4) 5 (5) 5 (6) 6 (6) times.

The last turn is made 2 (4) 2 (3) 4 (1) 1 (2) sts before end of row.

Cast on 3 (3) 3 (3) 4 (4) 4 (4) sts using a knitted cast-on method as continuation of the last RS row (towards the
neckline).

Now work back and forth over the front’s 33 (35) 38 (39) 41 (43) 43 (44) sts. Keep the stitch count constant.

1st row (WS): Purl all sts.

2nd row (RS): Knit all sts.

Work 1st – 2nd row a total of 14 (15) 16 (17) 17 (17) 17 (17) times (28 (30) 32 (34) 34 (34) 34 (34) rows in
total).

Now work increases to shape the armhole.

1st row (WS): P to 3 sts remaining, M1Lp, p to the end of row.

2nd row (RS): Knit all sts.

Work 1st – 2nd row a total of 3 (3) 4 (5) 5 (5) 8 (10) times.

You now have 36 (38) 42 (44) 46 (48) 51 (54) sts on your needles.

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Break the yarn and leave the stitches on hold using a helping needle or waste yarn.

LEFT FRONT
Start at the edge on the left shoulder piece (to the left when wearing the cardigan) and pick up 26 (28) 30 (31) 32
(33) 33 (34) sts along the remaining edge with the short end of the yarn with 5 mm [US 8]. circular needle. The
number of sts corresponds to 2 out of 3 sts. So; pick up in 2 sts, skip 1 st, pick up in 2 sts, skip 1 st, and so on.

TIP! See how to pick up sts with the short end of the yarn:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=3D5dDef2hq0

Push the sts back to the opposite end of the circular needle so that the first row can be worked from the RS of the
work. Now, begin the short rows.

Work as follows:
1st row (RS): K4 turn.
2nd row (WS): Purl all sts.
3rd row (RS): K to 4 sts after the last turn, turn.
4th row (WS): Purl all sts.

From here, work increases to shape the neckline while you continue working short rows. To create symmetry on
the two front pieces, increases on the left front piece are worked on the RS of the work.

Work as follows:
1st row (RS): K3, M1L, k to 4 sts after the last turn, turn.
2nd row (WS): Purl all sts.

Work 1st - 2nd row a total of 4 (4) 5 (5) 5 (6) 6 (6) times.

The last turn is made 2 (4) 2 (3) 4 (1) 1 (2) sts before end of row.

Cast on 3 (3) 3 (3) 4 (4) 4 (4) sts using a knitted cast-on method as continuation of the last WS row (towards the
neckline).

Now work back and forth over the front’s 33 (35) 38 (39) 41 (43) 43 (44) sts. Keep the stitch count constant.

1st row (RS): Knit all sts.

2nd row (WS): Purl all sts.

Work 1st – 2nd row a total of 14 (15) 16 (17) 17 (17) 17 (17) times, a total of (28 (30) 32 (34) 34 (34) 34 (34)
rows).

Now work increases to shape the armhole. Work as follows:

1st row (RS): K to 3 sts before end of row, M1R, k3.

2nd row (WS): Purl all sts.

Work 1st – 2nd row a total of 3 (3) 4 (5) 5 (5) 8 (10) times.

You now have 36 (38) 42 (44) 46 (48) 51 (54) sts on your needles.

Now the two front pieces and the back will be joined.

BODY
K across the left front piece's 36 (38) 42 (44) 46 (48) 51 (54) sts, cast on 4 (4) 4 (4) 6 (8) 8 (10) sts (as
continuation) with a knitted cast-on = left armhole. K across the back’s 79 (83) 91 (95) 97 (101) 107 (113) sts.
Cast on 4 (4) 4 (4) 6 (8) 8 (10) sts (as continuation) with a knitted cast-on = right armhole. Then, k across the
right front piece's 36 (38) 42 (44) 46 (48) 51 (54) sts.

All sts are now on the same circular needle.

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You have now 159 (167) 183 (191) 201 (213) 225 (241) sts on your needles.

From here, work back and forth in stocking stitch until the work measures approx. 47 (48) 50 (51) 53 (55) 57
(59) cm [18.5 (18.75) 19.75 (20) 20.75 (21.75) 22.5 (23.25) inches].

End with a RS row.

Now, work the ribbing.

Switch to a 4 mm [US 6] circular needle. Purl 1 row.

Then, work back and forth in rib as follows:

1st row (RS): K1, *k1, p1* repeat until 2 sts before end of row, k2.
2nd row (WS): P1, *p1, k1*repeat until 2 sts before end of row, p2.

Work alternately 1st and 2nd rows until the ribbing measures 6 cm [2.25 inches].

Then, work 2 rows in double knitting before binding off with Italian bind-off.

1st row (RS): K1, *k1, slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front* repeat until 2 sts before end of row, k2.
2nd row (WS): P1, *slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front, k1* repeat until 2 sts before end of row, slip 1 purlwise
with the yarn in front, p1.

TIP! Have a look here for how to work double knitting: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0W14R_0VsU0

Bind off using the Italian/tubular bind off method.

TIP! Have a look here for how to do the Italian/tubular bind off: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5j4qFYHLTlY

OBS! When there are two identical sts next to each other at the beginning/end of a row, treat them as if they were 1
st when binding off with Italian bind-off - pass the needle through both sts at the same time.

SLEEVES
Now the sleeves are worked. The sleeve cap is shaped by working short rows back and forth. Once this part is
completed, the sleeve is worked in the round on a circular needle.

Transfer 21 (21) 23 (23) 23 (24) 24 (24) resting sts onto your circular needle without working them, place a
marker, M2.
Then pick up 22 (24) 26 (29) 29 (29) 33 (34) sts along the front/back, approx. 2 out of every 3 sts.
Pick up 2 (2) 2 (2) 3 (4) 4 (5) sts under the armhole, place a marker, M0 (start of rnd), pick up an additional 2 (2)
2 (2) 3 (4) 4 (5) sts under the armhole.
Pick up 22 (24) 26 (29) 29 (29) 33 (34) sts along the front/back again, approx. 2 out of every 3 sts, place a marker,
M1. Break the yarn.

You now have 69 (73) 79 (85) 87 (90) 98 (102) sts on your needles.

Now, short rows are worked.

Move the last 2 of the newly picked up sts to the left side of the circular needle, so that you are 2 sts before M1.
Attach new yarn.

1st row (RS): K2, move M1 to the right needle, k2tog, k to 2 sts before M2, ssk, move M2 to right needle, k2, turn.
2nd row (WS): P to 7 sts after M1, turn.
3rd row (RS): K to 5 sts after the last turn, turn.
4th row (WS): P to 5 sts after the last turn, turn.

Work 3rd – 4th row 2 (2) 3 (3) 3 (4) 4 (4) more times.

Sleeve caps are now completed. K to M0.

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You now have 67 (71) 77 (83) 85 (88) 96 (100) sts on your needles.

From here, work in stocking stitch while decreasing on every 9th (8th) 7th (6th) 6th (5th) 4th (4th) rnd a total of
9 (10) 12 (13) 13 (14) 18 (18) times as follows:

1st rnd: k2, k2tog, k to 4 sts before end of rnd, ssk, k2.

2nd - 9th (8th) 7th (6th) 6th (5th) 4th (4th) rnd: Knit all sts.

With each decrease round, the stitch count reduces by 2 sts.

Once the 9 (10) 12 (13) 13 (14) 18 (18) repeats are completed, the sleeve should measure approx. 34 (34) 34 (33)
33 (32) 32 (32) cm [13.5 (13.5) 13.5 (13) 13 (12.5) 12.5 (12.5) inches] under the armhole.

You now have49 (51) 53 (57) 59 (60) 60 (64) sts on your needles.

TIP! Try on your cardigan to ensure sleeve length fits before working the ribbing.

Switch to 4 mm [US 6] circular needle.

For sizes XS-XL: K2tog at the beginning of each rnd, then k to the end of rnd.

For sizes 2XL-4XL: K to the end of rnd.

You now have 48 (50) 52 (56) 58 (60) 60 (62) sts on your needles.

Work the ribbing *k1, p1* until the sleeve edge measures 7 cm [2.75 inches].

Before binding off with Italian/tubular bind off method, work 2 rounds of double knitting.

1st rnd: *K1, slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front* repeat to the end of rnd.
2nd rnd: *Slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in back, p1* repeat to the end of rnd.

Bind off using the Italian/tubular bind off method.

FRONT EDGES
Now work the front edges.
Along the right edge of the cardigan (when worn), buttonholes are made. Buttons are attached along the left edge.

LEFT FRONT EDGE

Pick up 4 out of 5 sts along the left edge of the cardigan from the right side with a 4 mm [US 6] needle. That is, pick
up 4 sts, skip 1 st, pick up 4 sts, skip 1 st. and so on. Make sure to pick up an odd number of sts.

From here, work in rib. The first row after picking up sts is a WS row.

1st row (WS): Slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front, *p1, k1* repeat until 2 sts before end of row, p2.

2nd row (RS): K1, *k1, p1* repeat until 2 sts before end of row, k2.

3rd – 8th row: Work like 1st – 2nd row.

9th row (WS): Work like 1st row.

Work 2 rows in double knitting

1st row (RS): K1, *k1, slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front* repeat until 2 sts before end of row, k2.

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2nd row (WS): P1, *slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front, k1* repeat until 2 sts before end of row, slip 1 purlwise
with the yarn in front, p1.

Bind off using the Italian/tubular bind off method.

RIGHT FRONT EDGE

Pick up the same number of sts as along the left edge (again, equivalent to 4 out of 5 sts) from the RS with a 4 mm
[US 6] needle. The first row after picking up sts is a WS row.

1st row (WS): P1 *p1, k1* repeat to end of row.

2nd row (RS): Slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front, *k1, p1* repeat until 2 sts before end of row, k2.

3rd – 4th row: Work like 1st – 2nd row.

5th row (WS): Work like 1st row.

Buttonholes are worked on the next row.

Start by placing 4 (4) 5 (5) 5 (5) 5 (5) markers.

Place the 1st marker 6 sts from the beginning of the row (on the RS), and then evenly distribute the remaining
markers along the edge.

NOTE! Later in the work – when working the neckband – the cardigan's last buttonhole is added about 2 cm [0.75
inches] above the last st of the edge. Remember to account for this in the distribution. Also, ensure that the markers
always sit just after a knit st.

6th row (RS): Slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front, k1, *p1, k1* to 1st marker, move marker to right needle, yarn
over, k2tog. Work *p1, k1* to 2nd. marker, move marker to right needle, yarn over, k2tog. Continue in this manner
at the following markers. Once all buttonholes are made, work *p1, k1* to 1 st before end of row, k1.

7th – 8th row: Work like 1st – 2nd row.

9th row (WS): Work like 1st row.

Then work 2 rows of double knitting.

1st row (RS): Slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front, k1, *slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front, k1* repeat until 1
st before end of row, k1.

2nd row (WS): P1, *k1, slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front* repeat until 1 st before end of row, k1.

Bind off using the Italian/tubular bind off method.

NECK
Now work the neckband.

The neckband consists of two parts: a double-knitted edge and a ribbing.

Begin at the top of the right front edge and pick up 95 (95) 103 (103) 103 (109) 109 (109) sts from the RS using a
3 mm [US 4]. The specified number of sts corresponds to picking up in 2 out of 3 sts along the two front edges and
the slanted part of the front pieces. Along the remaining part of the neckband, pick up 1 st out of every 1 st.

The first row after picking up sts is worked from the WS.

1st row (WS): *P1, cast on 1 st using the backwards loop method* repeat until 1 st before end of row, p1.

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2nd row (RS): *Slip 1 knitwise with the yarn in back, p1* repeat until 1 st before end of row, slip 1 purlwise with
the yarn in back.

3rd row (WS): *P1, slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in back* repeat until 1 st before end of row, p1.

4th row (RS): Work like 2nd row.

5th row (WS): *P2tog* repeat until 1 st before end of row, p1.

The double-knitted part of the neck edge is now completed. Now, begin the ribbing.

6th row (RS): Slip 1 knitwise with the yarn in back, *k1, p1* repeat until 2 sts before end of row, k2.

7th row (WS): Slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front, *p1, k1* repeat until 1 st before end of row, p1.

On the next row, work a buttonhole.

8th row (RS): Slip 1 knitwise with the yarn in back, k1, p1, k1, yarn over, k2tog, *p1, k1* repeat until 1 st before
end of row, k1.

NOTE! When making the buttonhole on 8th row, determine whether it should be placed 4 or 6 sts in from the edge for
the best placement on your cardigan. If you want it to be 6 sts in, work as follows: ’slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in
back, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, yarn over, k2tog...' etc.

9th row (WS): Work like 7th row.

10th - 11th row (RS): Work like 6th - 7th rows.

Work 2 rows of double knitting.

1st row (RS): Slip 1 knitwise with the yarn in back, k1, *slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front, k1* repeat until 1 st
before end of row, k1.

2nd row (WS): Slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front, p1, *slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front, k1* repeat to end
of row, p1.

Bind off using the Italian/tubular bind off method.

FINISHING
Weave in all ends and sew on buttons. Wash and block the cardigan before use for an even more beautiful result.

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The pattern may not be copied, redistributed or sold on.
Sale of garments made from this pattern is prohibited.
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