DARTMOOR SWEATER

KNITTING PATTERN
Difficulty ◆◆◆◇◇

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The Dartmoor sweater is slightly oversized drop shoulder style pullover. It is a
timeless classic that will keep you cozy and warm. It is constructed from the top
down and is worked flat and in the round in stockinette stitch. Sweater features a
neat shoulder detail and classic rib around the neck, waist and sleeve cuffs. As an
additional help, few videos are included in the pattern. 20 to 25 cm / 8” to 10” of
positive ease is built in to the pattern, chose your size based on how much ease
you prefer.

Sizes
Bust circumference including ease XS 109, S 115, M 120, L 125, XL 133, 2XL 144,
3XL 155, 4XL 163, 5XL 173 cm, approximately (XS 43”, S 45¼”, M 47¼”, L 49¼”, XL
52¼”, 2XL 56¾”, 3XL 61”, 4XL 64¼“, 5XL 68¼”). Featured in size M on a 93 cm /
36½” bust.

Gauge
15 stitches by 24 rows = 4” x 4” (10 x 10 cm) using size US 9 / 5.50 mm needles in
stockinette stitch, after washing and blocking.

Suggested Yarn
Approximately 425, (425), 450, (500), 500, (550), 575, (625), 675 grams of Lamana
“Como Grande”, 50 grams = 120 meters / 131 yards and
75, (75), 100, (100), 100, (100), 125, (125), 150 grams of Lamana “Premia”, 25
grams = 300 meters / 328 yards. Sample is featured in color “51”. Both strands
are held together throughout the pattern.

Suggested Needles
US 9 / 5.50 mm, 80 cm / 32” circular knitting needles or needles to obtain gauge
for the main body and double pointed needles or short 25 - 40 cm / 10” - 16”
short tip needles for the sleeves+
US 8 / 5.00 mm, 80 cm / 32” +
US 7 / 4.50 mm, 25 - 40 cm / 10” - 16” circular knitting needles for the neck
ribbing and / or double pointed needles or short tip needles for the sleeve cuffs+
US 10 / 6.00 mm circular or double pointed needles.

Notions
1 knitting marker, 2 clip on markers, tapestry needle.

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Abbreviations
rs - right side
ws - wrong side
bor m - beginning of round marker
st/sts - stitch/stitches
ssk - slip, slip, knit, decrease leaning left
k2tog - knit two stitches together, decrease leaning right
m1L - make 1 left, increase leaning left
m1R - make 1 right, increase leaning right
ds - double stitch (in German short rows turning stitch is called “double stitch”,
but in the following row/round it is worked and counted as a single stitch).

Tips
Felt needle yarn join Video Tutorial
Picking up stitches around edges Video Tutorial
More video tips at www.caidree.com

PATTERN

Back
With both strands of yarn held together (throughout the pattern), using US 10 /
6.00 mm circular or double pointed knitting needles and provisional cast on
method cast on 3 stitches. Work as i-cord: knit 3 stitches, place 3 stitches back
onto your left hand needle and knit them again, repeat this until you have worked
XS 82, S 86, M 90, L 94, XL 102, 2XL 110, 3XL 116, 4XL 122, 5XL 130 rows of i-cord,
cut yarn leaving a tail and place the 3 stitches to rest on clip on marker. Aim for
the gauge of 14 to 15 rows per 10 cm / 4”.

Next, using US 9 / 5.50 mm, 80 cm / 32” circular knitting needles, pick up and knit
82, (86), 90, (94), 102, (110), 116, (122), 130 stitches from one side of the i-cord,
be sure to pick up and knit stitches in the same line of stitches, cut yarn leaving a
tail.

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Now you are ready to work the German short rows to shape the back, you will do
so in the following way:
Slip the first 29, (31), 32, (34), 38, (42), 45, (47), 51 stitches from your left hand
needle onto your right hand needle, attach yarn and purl next 24, (24), 26, (26),
26, (26), 26, (28), 28 stitches, you will have 29, (31), 32, (34), 38, (42), 45, (47), 51
remaining on the needle, turn work and make ds (see abbreviations).

Row 1 (rs): knit until there are 27, (29), 30, (32), 36, (40), 43, (44), 49 stitches
remaining on your needle, turn work, make ds.
Row 2 (ws): purl to last ds, purl the ds as a normal stitch, purl 2 stitches, turn
work, make ds.
Row 3 (rs): knit to last ds, knit the ds as a normal stitch, knit 2 stitches, turn work,
make ds.
Row 4 (ws): purl to last ds, purl the ds as a normal stitch, purl 2 stitches, turn
work, make ds.

Repeat rows 3 and 4: 12, (12), 13, (14), 15, (17), 19, (21), 23 more times. On your
last (ws) short row you will have 2 or 3 stitches remaining, purl each stitch to
finish the row.

Next, work flat (back and forth) without short rows in stockinette stitch an
additional 28, (30), 32, (32), 32, (30), 30, (28), 26 rows, ending on a wrong side,
next row is the right side row.

Work now measures approximately 24.5, (25), 26.5, (28), 29, (30), 31, (32), 33 cm
/ 9¾”, (10”), 10½", (11"), 11½”, (11¾”), 12”, (12½“), 13" measured from the i-cord
edge at its tallest point.

Next, cut yarn leaving a tail approximately 10 to 15 cm / 4” to 6” long. Place

stitches of the back on hold on scrap yarn or if you have another same size
needle, while you work the following steps.

Left Shoulder
Next, place the back piece you just created so that the right side is facing you, pick
up and knit the stitches for the left shoulder from the i-cord in the following way:

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Using US 9 / 5.50 mm, 80 cm / 32” circular needles, along i-cord edge, starting
from the neck edge working your way towards the left shoulder arm hole edge,
pick up and knit 29, (31), 32, (34), 38, (42), 45, (47), 51 stitches. You will pick up
and knit stitches from the opposite side of the i-cord so that the center line of the
i-cord stitches is exposed and creates the neat shoulder detail. See Video here.

Row 1 (ws): purl all stitches.

Row 2 (rs): knit all stitches.
Row 3 (ws): purl all stitches.
Repeat rows 2 and 3: 8, (8), 8, (8), 8, (8), 8, (8), 8 more times.

You have now worked total of 19 rows (all sizes).

Next, you will make a few increases to shape the neckline, you will do so in the
following way:
Row 1 (rs): knit 1, m1L, knit to end.
Row 2 (ws): purl to end.

Repeat rows 1 and 2: 4, (4), 4, (4), 4, (4), 4, (4), 4 more times.

Now you have 34, (36), 37, (39), 43, (47), 50, (52), 56 stitches on your needles.

Cut the yarn, leaving a tail, and let the stitches rest on scrap yarn while you work
the right shoulder.

Right Shoulder
Right shoulder is worked similarly as the left shoulder except stitches are picked
up from the right shoulder line and the increases are mirror reversed.
Using US 9 / 5.50 mm, 80 cm / 32” circular needles, along the i-cord edge, starting
from the right shoulder arm hole edge working your way towards the inner right
side of the neck edge, pick up and knit 29, (31), 32, (34), 38, (42), 45, (47), 51
stitches. You will pick up and knit stitches from the opposite side of the i-cord so
that the center line of the i-cord stitches is exposed and creates the neat shoulder
detail.

Row 1 (ws): purl all stitches.

Row 2 (rs): knit all stitches.
Row 3 (ws): purl all stitches.

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Repeat rows 2 and 3: 8, (8), 8, (8), 8, (8), 8, (8), 8 more times.

You have now worked total of 19 rows (all sizes).

Next, you will make a few increases to shape the neckline, you will do so in the
following way:
Row 1 (rs): knit until there is 1 stitch remaining, m1R, knit 1.
Row 2 (ws): purl to end.

Repeat rows 1 and 2: 4, (4), 4, (4), 4, (4), 4, (4), 4 more times.

Now you have 34, (36), 37, (39), 43, (47), 50, (52), 56 stitches on your needles.

Do not cut yarn, work will continue from this point on.

Front
Now you are ready to join the front and cast on new stitches between the two
shoulders to create the neckline. You will do so in the following way:
Using US 9 / 5.50 mm, 80 cm / 32” circular needles, working from the right side
knit 34, (36), 37, (39), 43, (47), 50, (52), 56 stitches of the right shoulder, when
you get to the end using backward loop method, cast on 14, (14), 16, (16), 16,
(16), 16, (18), 18 new stitches, then continuously knit 34, (36), 37, (39), 43, (47),
50, (52), 56 stitches of the left shoulder (stitches that were on hold).

Now you have 82, (86), 90, (94), 102, (110), 116, (122), 130 stitches on your
needles.
Work flat (back and forth) in stockinette stitch an additional 37, (39), 41, (45), 47,
(49), 53, (55), 57 rows, ending on a wrong side, next row is the right side row.

Work now measures approximately 27.5, (28.5), 29.5, (31.5), 32, (33), 34, (35), 36
cm / 10¾”, (11¼”), 11½", (12½"), 12½”, (13”), 13½”, (13¾“), 14¼"measured from
the i-cord line.
Do not cut yarn, work will continue from this point on.

Body
Now you are ready to join the front with the back, this will create armhole
openings and the body section will be worked seamlessly in the round. You will do
so in the following way:

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Using US 9 / 5.50 mm, 80 cm / 32” circular needles, working from the right side
knit 82, (86), 90, (94), 102, (110), 116, (122), 130 stitches of the front, then
continuously knit the 82, (86), 90, (94), 102, (110), 116, (122), 130 stitches of the
back (stitches that were on hold).
Now you have 164, (172), 180, (188), 204, (220), 232, (244), 260 stitches on your
needles.

Continue knitting in the round in stockinette stitch, until the body measures 47,
(47), 48, (50), 54, (55), 56, (58), 59 cm, approximately 18½”, (18 ½"), 19”, (19¾”),
21¼”, (21½“), 22“, (22¾”), 23¼” or your preferred length, measured from the top
back i-cord edge.
Next, switch to US 8/ 5.00 mm needles and work 7.5 cm / 3” in 1x1 (k1, p1) rib.
Bind off using tubular bind off, see video example here.

Sleeves
Sleeve stitches are picked up along the armhole opening and worked in the round
in stockinette stitch (stockinette stitch in the round is all knit stitches) using US 9 /
5.50 mm, 25 to 40 cm / 10” to 16” circular needles or double-pointed needles or
magic loop method.
Working from the rs, starting under arm, pick up and knit 66, (68), 70, (74), 76,
(76), 78, (78), 78 stitches. That is a ratio of approximately 2 stitches per 3 rows
and each of the 3 stitches of the i-cord that were on hold. Place bor m under arm
to mark the beginning of round.

Continue to work in the round in stockinette stitch while working the decrease
round (see the decrease round instructions below) every 12th, (10th), 10th,
(10th), 9th, (9th), 9th, (8th), 8th round a total of 7, (8), 8, (8), 9, (9), 9, (9), 9 times.

Decrease round: slip bor m, k1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before bor m, ssk, k1.
Now you have 52, (52), 54, (58), 58, (58), 60, (60), 60 stitches.
Work a few additional rounds if necessary without decreases until the sleeve
measures 37, (37), 37, (37), 35, (35), 34, (33), 32 cm / 14½”, (14½”), 14½“, (14½“),
13¾”, (13¾”), 13¼“, (13”), 12½“ measured from under arm.

Next, switch to US 7 / 4.50 mm needles and work 10 cm / 4” of cuff in 1x1 rib (k1,
p1).

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Bind off from the right side using tubular bind off, also known as an Italian bind
off technique. Do the same for the other sleeve.

Neck Collar
Working from the right side, with US 7 / 4.50 mm, 25 - 40 cm / 10” - 16” circular
needles start in the back middle of neckline, pick up and knit 94, (94), 98, (98), 98,
(98), 98, (102), 102 stitches.

That is a ratio of 1 stitch per each row alongside the neck on both sides, back
neckline (i-cord) and front (where you cast on additional stitches). Aim for gauge
of 18 - 19 stitches per 10 cm / 4”.
Work in 1x1 (k1, p1) rib until collar measures 5 cm / 2”.
Bind off from the right side using tubular bind off, also known as an Italian bind
off technique.

For the folded neck option, work in the same manner (k1, p1) until rib measures
10 cm / 4”, once the rib is completed, fold it over to the inside of the neckline and
bind off by loosely knitting 1 stitch from your needle together with 1 stitch from
the pick-up edge, repeat this until all of the stitches have been bound off.

Finish
Tuck in all yarn ends and block your sweater to size.

Measurements

• bust circumference 109, (115), 120, (125), 133, (144), 155, (163), 173 cm /
43”, 45¼”, 47¼”, 49¼”, 52¼”, 56¾”, 61”, 64¼“, 68¼”).
• Upper arm circumference 44, (46), 47, (49), 50, (50), 52, (52), 52 cm, 17¼”,
(18”), 18½”, (19¼”), 19½”, (19½”), 20½”, (20½”), 20½”.

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 • Length including neck and waist ribbing 60, (60), 61, (63), 67, (68), 69, (71),
72 cm/ 23½”, (23½"), 24”, (24¾”), 26½”, (26¾“), 27“, (28”), 28¼”.

This pattern remains property of ©Caidree 2022 by Sabina Harnage.

Pattern is for individual use only and it is protected by international copyright law.
In purchasing this pattern you agree to print and use this pattern and all items
made from it only for your personal non-commercial use.
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DARTMOOR SWEATER

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Pattern Notes:

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