THE PATENTED

SHUFFLE
Edward Marlo

A Retrospective E-Edition
2004

1
E-BOOK EDITION
© 2004 by Jon Racherbaumer

This publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means
electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or any information storage and retrieval system now known by
Premium Members of JonRacherbaumer.com for the magnanimous purpose of thought contagion.

Cobbled together in New Orleans, Louisiana.

Original Copyright 1966 Ed Marlo Chicago, Ill.

First Printing August 1966
Second Printing January 1972
Third Printing 1975
Fourth Printing, 1979

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 CONTENTS
Foreword
The Patented False Shuffle
The Slip Cut
Shuffle and Cut Discoveries
Transfers
I Shuffled the Cards
Effects

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 CAUTIONARY NOTE
As readers and students of card magic we tend to examine texts at face value, ignoring
the fact that texts are written at a particular time and era. Also, we seldom “frame”
written works in historical contexts. We rarely appreciate the specific Zeitgeist that gives
rise to a book or manuscript and may significantly influence its writer. I say this because
Marlo’s Riffle Shuffle Trilogy—when it was written and even now—is a curious work.
At the time the manuscripts were cobbled together from meandering, hand-written notes.
The average card enthusiast looked upon expert card technique (including the concise and
daunting book so named) as highly technical, ecclesiastical manuals of the Church of
Knuckle-Busting Techniques. They were beyond the pale. The Book of Erdnase,
although now widely known, was not yet a book sanctified by legends or diligently read
by acolytes of gaming-table artifice. Back then, who needed to know and master anything
about culling, stock shuffling, run ups, blind cuts, and riffle-shuffle arcanum? Sixty years
ago cardmen were happy to know one or two false shuffles. Few were motivated to
master, say, the Blind Riffle Shuffle (Second Method) explained in the Legerdemain
section (not in the Card Table Artifice section) of Expert at the Card Table. Fewer were
doing the false shuffles in Expert Card Technique. Fewer were able to master the Faro
Shuffle, and only a handful knew anything about Block Transfers or anything as esoteric
as a Stevens Control or Zarrow Shuffle.

Doc Daley took notes, but these notes were not circulated or published. Maybe a dozen
practitioners of Riffle Shuffle work were at work in those days—experimenting,
perfecting, seeking applications beyond the gaming table, and holding back their
discoveries. Marlo was one of these practitioners, as was Vernon, Daley, and Bill Simon.
In fact, Simon was one of the first to “tip” inside stuff to the mainstream by writing
Effective Card Magic (1952). (Notice that Simon avoiding the adjective “expert” in his
title?) The Simon System of False Riffle Shuffles of course was a glimpse, a tease. This
was perhaps a result of his correspondence with Marlo?

When Marlo conceived and wrote his Riffle Shuffle Trilogy he knew the readership of
this esoteric technique was small—a group perhaps limited to fifty hard-core, curious
cardmen? He understood that his notes, relatively speaking, had the look of a tedious
treatise. It still does. The pages are dense with detail and schematic drawings, as dry as
dust and as about as inviting as the Congressional Record. The original type-written
pages were mimeographed and then spiral-bound. Its covers were plain, nondescript. So,
in the end, who wanted to read these abstruse, almost cabalist-looking works? Who
wanted to shell out fifty bucks for each?

This is the second book of the trilogy. This make-shift edition has been cursorily edited
and the typography has been broken up a bit. The illustrations and schematic drawings
have been temporarily deleted. The next edition will be more scrupulously edited and
photographs and drawings will be added. In the original treatise, many of the drawing

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were unnecessary, if not redundant. One presupposes that anyone sufficiently informed to
buy or be interested in such advance techniques would be able to understand the text
without looking at drawings of sections, blocks, and so on.

I’m posting this Temporary Version so that students can have a “first look” at a work that
has been out-of-print for awhile or is difficult and expensive to obtain. Please overlook
the blunders, typos, and other errors that will discover as you inch your way through the
126 pages and almost 56,000 words. Rest assured that the next edition will eliminate
them.

In the meantime, enjoy the “first look.”

Onward…

Jon Racherbaumer

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 FOREWORD
Edward Marlo

This is the second volume dealing with the Riffle Shuffle Systems and is being
sold only to those who have purchased the original Riffle Shuffle Systems and not a
pirated copy.

This material, comprising Six Sections, is an extension and application of the

principles laid down in Riffle Shuffle Systems; however, there are new and revolutionary
approaches concerning techniques for False Riffle Shuffling, Block Transferring, Slip
Cutting and other stratagems.

The bulk of the manuscript took shape from various notes dated July 20, 1959 to
November 4, 1962. The exceptions are the “Bottom Slip Cut” (March 20, 1954), which
later was expanded in its application. The Top Slip Cut Technique I have used long
before I started dating developed ideas. The other item—“The Great Discovery”—was to
be marketed separately in 1966, but it was decided to make it part of the manuscript. 1
“The Great Discovery,” while not actually titled, is on page 125 in “I Shuffled the
Cards.”

On reading some of the following systems, it may at first appear as if there is just
too much work in mastering the systems. Actually, they are a lot easier to master than any
of the so-called secret sleights. For example, the Two-Handed Pass can be practiced and
analyzed for twenty-five years and after all that time you have a sleight that must still be
done without anyone being aware that you executed the maneuver. This applies to all
secret sleights with the exception of those you decide to demonstrate. In the case of
Shuffles, either Overhand Riffle or Faro, you do not hide them. They are done openly,
not secretly. The Systems behind these shuffles are what the onlooker is unfamiliar with;
therein lays the puzzlement. This means that study, practice and mastery of Shuffle
Systems will take you less time and be more rewarding and reputation-gaining than the
same amount of time devoted to trying to master any secret sleight. Grasping and
understanding the underlying principles of the Shuffles will take more time than the
actual mechanics of any particular system.

In regard to the False Shuffles and cuts, using jogs or steps should be done so that
only the white border of the cards will be the extent of the jog or step regardless of
whether they are formed at the sides or ends of the deck. Therefore, in setting up for, say,
the Simplex Strip-Out Shuffle, the initial cutting actions to set up the step or jog should
be only for the width of the white border on the back of the card. The actual Simplex

1
Marlo included a sample deck that could be used to apply the “discovery.”

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Strip-Out would then is set-up by telescoping the cards only as far as this white border.
Mention of this is made at the outset because the illustrations are exaggerated and may
give the student the wrong impression as to the actual size of these jogs or steps.

This also applies to the Block Transfers, which, for the sake of clarity, have also
been magnified from their actual movement, which in reality are blended in with the
telescoping of the deck and become almost imperceptible.

This second volume is an exclusive and limited edition. Its contents are meant to
be used for entertainment, amusement, and bewilderment of your audience, as well as
enhancing your own reputation and prowess with the cards. I presume your motives are
honest ones.

Cardially yours,

Ed Marlo

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 MARLO ' S PATENTED FALSE SHUFFLE

The underlying techniques of this False Shuffle provide easier and greater control
and unlimited flexibility of application. First, the bold, basic technique will be explained.
Then we will explain its cover.

Grasp the deck for the start of the shuffle. Your first fingers are curled on top and
your second and third fingers of each hand are on the outer corners. Your thumbs, lying
parallel to deck, are at the inner corners. The fourth finger of each hand is at outer ends,
their tips touching their respective ends. (Photo 1)

Take off top half of deck to the right, as you split for the Shuffle. During the
Shuffle, the fingers of each hand remain at the outer ends of the cards; however, the first
finger of each hand can straighten out alongside the second finger of each hand, as the
shuffle is made or they can remain pressing against top of each packet as the shuffle is
made.

For now the shuffle is made so that the right-hand portion is riffled into the left-
hand section.

Once the cards are interlaced, the right hand moves its portion into the left-hand
section but at an outward angle. (Photo 2)

During this time the positions of the fingers of each hand remain the same, as seen
in figure 2B which also shows the direction of the right-hand packet as it is moved to the
left.

Continue pushing the right-hand packet at a forward angle. The Figure 3A shows
the right-hand packet as it moves in still further. Your finger positions remain the same,
but notice that the left second finger has moved out slightly to allow passage of angled
right-hand packet.

During the pushing or telescoping action, your left thumb and third finger never let
go of its end of the deck. In fact, when the shuffle is almost completed, the cards will be
as seen in figure 4A, which is a diagram of the finger positions. Note that the left third
finger comes between the corners of both packets and is a significant controlling factor of
the shuffle. Photo 4 shows the actual hands around the deck at this stage.

When the hands are as in figure 4B, the right thumb presses inward against side of
deck. This is to force these cards forward so that a corner breaks thru does not show at

8
the outer right (4B) corner. The right fingers now can move down along the outer right
end as if pushing the cards flush.

In reality, the right second, third and fourth fingers push against this end; however,
the right thumb must keep pressing forward against the inner right corners of the deck to
keep from showing a corner break at outer right corner. The figure 5A shows this right
hand action. The left fingers have been moved out of the way to more clearly show the
left third finger between corner of the two sections. Figure 5B shows a diagram of this.

In the figure 5B you will note that right thumb will be pressing inward on the
corners formed at inner right end in order to prevent corner break thru at outer right
corner. The tips of the right second, third and fourth fingers press or push on the right end
of deck.

All you have to do now is to re-grasp the ends of the deck as in the figures 1A and
B. The left hand thumb and third finger have a firm controlling grip on its half of the
deck; thus the right hand can easily strip its cards out in a forward action.

Now all the above steps are merely to impress on you the actual mechanics of the
Marlo Riffle Shuffle. If it was done just that way in actual practice, it would be quite
obvious. Therefore, we now come to how the shuffle is actually performed thru the use of
a Riding Top Block.

Begin by cutting off the top half to the right, Shuffle the right hand portion into the
left, but hold back about three cards from the left hand portion, with left thumb. Next the
left thumb and left second finger move this block of three cards forward. This is a sort of
sliding action with left thumb, left second finger and left first finger, moving forward.

The figure 6A shows the block of three cards (or more if desired) moved forward
The left first finger has been raised to more clearly show the action, The left first finger,
during the forward movement, can be straightened alongside left second finger or can
remain pressing its tip against top of deck, Note also that the block of three cards is
moved to in front of the left third finger. The figure 6B shows this more clearly.

Once the block of three cards is moved forward, it is left free to ride on top of the
deck, as the right hand pushes its cards toward the left. The figure 7A shows how the
cards have been-telescoped further into each other and how the Riding Top Block is
forced to start joining the top of right hand portion due to left third finger keeping this
block from rejoining the cards now being controlled by left thumb and left third finger.
(Figures at the top of next page).

9
 Here the left first finger, as well as right first finger has been lifted off to more
clearly show the position of the Riding Block. The diagram figure 7B shows the actual
finger positions as well as the Riding Block.

Right hand continues pushing in its portion until the cards arrive in the position
shown in figure 8A. At this stage, the left thumb and left third finger have at all times
retained a grip on its cards, which enables the Top Riding Block to move onto those cards
in right hand section.

This Top Riding Block moves rather freely and actually covers up the angled
condition of the cards. The excess cards from right-hand section also comprise some
additional loose cards which further aid in covering the angled cards. If you were to
remove all the top loose cards you would find that the deck would appear as already
shown in figure 4A. You will readily see, on several trials, how important this Riding
Block cover is. Also, remember never to let go of the cards held by left thumb and third
finger. The figure 8B again shows finger positions at this stage. Note that first fingers of
each hand have joined alongside the second fingers of each hand.

The left hand retains its position; however, the right hand further aids in the action
by a pushing and squaring of the right end of the deck as in figure 9. Remember the right
thumb pushes forward on its inner left corner to prevent corner break thru at outer right
corner. At same, the ball of the left second finger aids in moving the top loose cards
inwards slightly, so that they will sort of fan out and now cover not only the front side,
but also the inner side. Study figure 9 for the position of both hands.

With the cards as in figure 8A and 8B, the first fingers of each hand move back
onto deck and right hand strips its cards out in a forward action as shown in figure 10A.
The left thumb and left third finger hold firmly onto its cards while right hand takes all
cards of its section, including the Riding Block of cards originally in left hand section.

This right hand portion is immediately brought under the left hand packet as seen
in figure 10B.

The above action simulates a cut of the pack; however, as the right hand portion is
brought under the left hand section, it is side jogged to the right as in figure 11. The both
hands remain in the ends of the deck and the figure 11 also shows the finger positions.
From the front, the side jog, which should be one that blends in with the white border of
the lower half, about 3/16" more or less; however do not make it so fine as to make your
next step slow or cumbersome.

The ball of the left thumb now contacts the inner left corner and pulls upward on
the top jogged packet. Immediately, the right thumb and fingers grasp these raised cards
and cuts them off to the right in readiness for the second riffle shuffle. Again the left

10
thumb holds back a block of three cards as before, so they will fall on top. The figure 12
shows the riffle a shuffle about this riffle shuffle uses the finger positions of the Open
Shuffle. (See figure 30 in Riffle Shuffle Systems.)

From here you repeat all the actions as depicted by the figures 2A and 2B up to
and including figures 10A and 10B. Steps 1 to 17 inclusive. Naturally, this time as right
hand stripe out its cards and places them under those in the left hand, there is no need for
a jog as the false shuffle is now complete and the deck is back in its identical order.

At times the following handling of the side jog will be found disarming and quite
expedient. In this case, when the right hand portion is placed under the left hand portion,
the jog is made quite obvious, about a half inch move or less, and both hands, after
squeezing sides of deck, change position. This change in position momentarily exposes
the side jog on the right. Immediately the hands come around the cards as in figure 13,
which shows the finger positions of both hands. Note that the second fingers of each hand
are at extreme upper corners and both thumbs are touching, tip to tip, at back end of deck
around center. The first fingers of each hand should be curled and raised slightly above
the deck, thus not touching it. The remaining fingers of each hand are as shown in figure
13.

The second fingers of each hand now hit the outer corners of the pack, causing the
cards to angle as in figure 14.

With the cards angled as in figure 14, grasp the deck with the right hand only, at
the right end. Now you have two alternatives. One, you can press down , with side of left
thumb, on the bottom angled cards at inner left corner Y, as in fig. 15, to keep the lower
half in place as right fingers slide off the top section to the right for a shuffle. The second
alternative is to lift up, at outer left corner jog there, with tip of left second or third finger.

The raised packet is taken off to right by right hand. This raising technique is
especially useful when the right hand has to remove the lower half to the right.

From here of course you go into the second phase of the shuffle to complete the
requirements for bringing the pack to the original order.

- July 30, 1959

IN ONE SHUFFLE
It has been my observation that when trying to get by with a false shuffle, among
very knowledgeable card men, that if you shuffle the cards more than once, your chances
of getting "pinned" are very great.

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 Also, fancy, multiple cuts arouse suspicion. There is nothing wrong with
continuous false shuffles and multiple cuts if the situation warrants it, such as in actual
demonstration of control. I'm referring to that one specific instance where you have a
stacked deck and must give it a shuffle to convey that the pack has been mixed. The
following procedure uses the Marlo False Shuffle, but done only once, followed by an
apparent single cut.

Start by undercutting half the deck, with right hand, to the right.

Release some cards from left hand section, first, and then follow with the normal
riffle shuffle but hold back a block of cards on the right hand section so it falls on top.
This block can be one consisting of an indeterminate number of cards, although between
six and ten cards will be found about right. The situation is as in figure 16.

Now just go thru the same actions of the Marlo False Shuffle and you will find that
the top block will move around accordingly and thus automatically cover the angled
cards. The situation will appear as already shown in figures 8A, BB; with the left fingers
and thumb always holding onto its original cards and does not include the block.

From here, give the cards just one cut as already shown in figures 10A, 10B, to
complete the sequence to bring deck back to its original order.

The following technique is at times very useful in aiding to get the top block to
effectively conceal the angled conditions of the cards. Start the shuffle as above to get the
situation as shown in figure 16.

Telescope the halves into each other for about two thirds their lengths. Also the
right hand section, besides being angled, should be slightly forward at the inner right
corners. This is shown in figure 17, a top view.

Keeping right thumb in place against inner right corners, the right fingers are
placed against right end of deck as in figure 18. The right fingers now start to push the
cards to the left as shown.

Keep pushing the cards to the left until they arrive in the position as already shown
in figure 9. You will find that the top loose block from thin point in handled as originally
explained. Also using the pushing, as in figure 18, will cause the top loose block to
effectively cover the angled situation. Moving the right hand section slightly forward, as
in figure 17, will aid in preventing a corner break thru. Of course, if you do not use the
pushing or squaring of the ends technique but directly bring the hands into the position
shown in figure 8A, 8B, then you do not have to worry about this an the fingers hide the
condition.

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 THE THROW OFF
At times an action of cutting can be used that not only covers up the actual
stripping out of the cards, but gives the appearance of an ordinary miss of some cards.
The following does just that and sometimes may give the impression of a triple cut. The
technique is most useful as on a hard surface where the pick up of a tabled half can be
awkward at times.

Undercut the bottom half, with right hand, to the right.

Start the shuffle by first releasing a bed of cards, about ten or so, from the right
hand section. Riffle in the normal manner, but keep a block of cards, from right hand
section, to fall on top. Figure 19 shows the condition of deck. loose block

Telescope the cards into each other, getting the deck into the Marlo Strip. Out. The
hands are in the position shown in figure 8 A, 8B, in readiness for the cut to follow. The
deck is as in figure 20A.

The left hand lifts its cards up and of course the right hand follows upwards also,
because left hand has retained a grip on its section of cards, only there will be a block of
cards left behind on the table as in figure 20 B.

The right hand now strips out its cards and drops them onto the tabled cards
followed by left hand tossing its cards on top of all. Deck is still in order.

You will find that the technique of first releasing a block of cards from right hand
section is good to use on hard surfaces, The cards in left hand section are thus raised and
already under control by left hand. Now right hand can take all the time it needs to insure
that it grasps all its cards for the Strip out. The cut is now easy as the left hand cards are
already off the table and therefore there is no hesitation in completing the cut: The other
way the left hand might have to make several tries to grasp all its cards. A trial on a hard
surface will quickly point this out to you.

SIMPLEX STRIP OUT

This Strip Out Shuffle is very easy to do and as deceptive as any in existence.

Undercut about two thirds of the pack, with right hand and place it on top in a side
jogged condition as in figure 21.

13
 The jog is about a half inch. This is followed by immediately stripping out the
center section with right hand, as left fingers hold hack a top block of about 10 cards or
so. The action is seen in figure 22.

The center cut is apparently made to split the deck for a shuffle; however, the
situation is now as in figure 23.

The cards are immediately riffle shuffled as follows: Release a few cards from
right hand section then follow with a normal riffle, however, the top jogged block of
cards is let fall on top, none of these cards being weaved. The Figure 24 shows the
condition at this stage.

Right hand now telescopes the cards to the left but only as far as the upper jogged
section. The fingers of both hands do not leave their positions and in this way, the jogged
portion on left is concealed as well as the jogged condition of' the right end. The figure
25 shows the operator's view of the deck when it has been telescoped up to the top side
jogged section. Figure 26 shows the condition of the cards if the hands were removed.

Hold firmly onto the jogged section with left hand while right hand strips out its
cards in a cut as already shown in figure 10A and B. The Simplex Strip Out actions are
now complete and the deck is back in order

The whole series of actions, from the figure 21 to figure 25 are continuous and
immediately followed with the cut as in figure 10A and B. If desired the series can he
repeated for apparently a second shuffle. After each shuffle and cut, the hands square up
the deck ala Erdnase before going into the next shuffle. The "Throw Off" can also be
added to this type shuffle if desired.

The technique can also be used for block transfers; however, in this case it is
important that the amount of jog be cut down to a minimum. The following is its use in
bringing a block of top four cards to the bottom.

With right hand under cut bottom portion to the right. Riffle Shuffle as you may
wish but let the last four cards of left hand portion fall on top' Move these top four cards
slightly forward with fingers of the left hand.

Here telescope the packets into each other but only to the point where there will be
a side jog of cards exposed on each side of the block of four cards as seen in figure 27.

The actual condition of the pack as viewed from performer's side is as seen in
figure 28.

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 If you were to strip out the cards at this point you would carry the top block of four
cards with the right hand section. The result will be as in figure 29.

Of course in the cut you would place the right hand portion under the left hand
portion. The jogged block of four cards would come flush with the left hand section as
seen in figure 30.

Immediately undercut the lower side-jogged portion, with right hand to the right,
as indicated by the arrow, to split pack for another shuffle. Naturally the cards from left
hand portion, which contain the original block of four cards at bottom, are released first
in the shuffle. Thus the block of four cards remains at bottom.

In certain effects or moves, such as Table Reverse of bottom cards, it is required to

release these cards first in the opening of the shuffle. On an occasional trick, this can be
an awkward hesitating process. This can be made rapid in the following manner.

Simply repeat the actions from step 9 to 12 inclusive, figure 27 to 29 inclusive.

Now instead of placing the halves flush as in figure 30 the left thumb obtains a break, at
inner right corner, above the block as seen in figure 31.

Immediately split for the shuffle and retain the break, with left thumb. You can
now very easily and quickly release the block of four cards first, from left hand section,
followed by some cards onto this block of four cards. Riffle shuffle normally but let last
few cards from right hand section fall on top. Telescope the cards into each other for
about a third of its length, and then go right into the Table Reverse action.

Another method for quickly releasing a desired number of cards on the bottom is
the following: Repeat all the actions required as per steps 9 to 12, inclusive and figures
27 to 29 inclusive.

This time in placing right hand portion under left, it is done so that the block of
four cards will be end jogged on the left as in the figure 32, a performer's view.

Now split the deck by grasping top section, plus the four injogged cards, with left
hand as right hand slides the under portion to the right as in figure 33

Continue the sliding action when suddenly the under portion will come clear of the
four card block and an automatic separation take place, as in figure 34, when upper large
block becomes supported by the lower large block.

Note that the tip of left fourth finger can press down on the four card block in
order to keep it down and in place as packets rise slightly for a riffle shuffle, as you set up
accordingly for the Table Reverse or for any other reason.

15
 Still another technique, for the final shuffle, is to merely split the deck into the
condition shown in figure 35.

Now change the position of your hands so that both thumbs lift up the inner
corners of their respective halves. This will result in the block of four cards, on the left
side, being automatically left on table as cards are raised for the shuffle. The action is
depicted in figure 36, performer's view.

Before leaving the subject for the time, I must mention that you can use other
shuffle techniques to get the above results. For example using a Strip Out Technique as in
the following:

Undercut bottom half, with right hand to the right. Riffle Shuffle holding a block
of four cards on left hand section to fall last.

Telescope the halves into each other for about two thirds of their length. Now
apparently square up but actually set up as for a Strip Out as in figure 37, a top view.

With left thumb press downwards on the angled step, at inner left corner, as the
pack is squared, thus getting a break, under top four cards, with left thumb at inner right
corner. See figure 38.

With right hand undercut half the deck and place it to top in an end jogged
condition to the right. Deck is now as in figure 39.

Immediately undercut the lower halt, below the break, to the right At this point
you can use the technique as per figure 33, 34 to release the four card block to bottom or
use the technique as per figure 36 to get four cards to bottom. From here go into Table
Reverse or use in any other way.

At times you may wish to bring the top block of cards to the right hand section to
be released there.
In that case, assuming you have a break, under top block as per figure 38, the right
hand undercuts bottom portion and places these forward over left end as per figure 40.

Right hand now cute off the top section, up to the break, to carry it to the right as
per figure 41, where it is now set for the subsequent shuffle.

16
 MARLO'S TECHNIQUES ON THE ZARROW SHUFFLE
The following technique for the Zarrow Shuffle is not only the result of many
hours of experimentation but of observation as well. Several important features of the
added techniques will enable one to do the shuffle deceptively even if someone is in back
of the operator. A definite technique for the secret weaving process - or rather,
unweaving - is used and explained separately, Marlo's Insurance plus a method for the
slow-motion camera will also be explained. First, I will deal with the method for
shuffling on a hard surface in order to do the Zarrow. It gives good control of the cards to
be unweaved, whether these be the cards on the right or on the left.

Hold the deck by the ends. The first fingers of each hand are curled on top. The
position of the hands is similar to figure 1A-1B except that the fourth fingers of each
hand come under the deck. Only the tips of the fourth fingers are beneath the deck as seen
in the figure 42, a view from beneath.

Split the deck for the shuffle. Shuffle but retain the tips of each fourth finger under
outer corners of the deck as in figure 43, which of course slightly raises deck off table at
outer ends.

This then is the shuffle position of the deck on a hard surface or otherwise. For
soft surfaces you can also use the shuffle position of figure 12.

I will now describe the "Unweaving Technique" without. the use of the top blocks
cover in order that you may readily understand what takes place under cover of the
spread blocks.

Assume the corners of the packets are weaved or riffled into each other as in figure
44, a top view without a block covering.

The right thumb only now pulls its packets toward you. The action is seen in figure
45. This unweaves the cards of the right hand section from the left. The thumb action as
depicted in figure 45 is greatly exaggerated as well as the unweaving. In actual practice
the thumb action is really slight, and the unweaved cards are not so far apart at that time -
just far enough to clear.

Immediately the right hand packet is raised slightly and moved back onto the left
hand section as seen in figure 46. Naturally, these actions all take place under cover of
other cards.

While figure 45 shows a right thumb action you con use the left thumb instead.
Also a combined action of both left and right thumbs can be used. In any case the thumb

17
actions become very slight, almost imperceptible. Never pull the hands apart in order to
unweave the packets. Always use only the thumb actions to unweave.

Having understood the action of unweaving the cards, let us now begin with the
actual shuffle. Start as in the original Zarrow shuffle of pulling out a section, from under
a block of about six to ten cards, as in figure 47. Remember position of deck in hands is
as outlined.

At this stage, when right hand has completely removed its cards, you will have a
break, with left thumb, between the original top block and bottom of deck an in figure 48

Now shuffle as in figure 43, releasing cards from left hand section first. Follow
with regular riffle but let the block fall last or on top. The condition is now as in figure
49. Note that under top block of cards there is another block of unweaved cards.

The right first finger now quickly pushes or feeds its cards to the left and forward.
At the same time the left thumb and second finger moves its block of cards to the right
and slightly inwards toward the operator. The condition of the pack, from the top, is as
seen in figure 50.

Under cover of the spread of cards and block the unweaving action is made as
already shown in the figures 44 to 46 inclusive. All that remains is to square up the cards
with both hands moving into the position as already shown in figure 8A.

The unweaving motion should be done at about the same time that right first finger
is pushing its small block of actually unweaved cards to under the top block. The figure
51 shows how the loose block of cards has been pushed to left and top block removed to
right and at the same time the riffled portion of cards have been unweaved. From here
cards are squared as per figure 8A.

MARLO'S INSURANCE
This is simply a process of using the underlying mechanics of the Patented False
Shuffle.

Assume you are doing the Zarrow shuffle as described. After the unweaving of the
cards, as in the Zarrow shuffle, keep your left third finger firmly in place against the outer
left corner, Left thumb is kept in place at inner left corner.

As the cards are apparently pushed flush you do so by making top half ride in at an
angle. This action is similar to 7A-7D figures.

18
 This prevents the top half of cards from going flush but remains at an angle as in
figure 52, which also shows the finger positions.

At this stage, if there are any interweaved cards they will be in line and under
control with the top angled section. The hands are around the cards similar to that shown
in figure 8A.

The next step is to carry the top section, plus any of the weaved cards, with right
hand to under the left hand portion, but in a side jogged condition as in figure 13, page
10.

From figure 13 you can angle the packets as already shown in figure 14 and 15.
Press down, with left thumb, at Y as in figure 15 to obtain a break. Now with right hand
undercut a series of sections, up to the top. The pack is now in order as before.

If you prefer you can precede the actual Zarrow Shuffle by the cutting action as
shown in figures 21, 22, 23. This would then mean only the one single cut later after
obtaining the angle as in figure 52. Actually I feel this procedure is preferable.

Regardless of what procedure you adopt for the Zarrow Shuffle you will find the
angling of the top half not only a form of "insurance" against those possible few weaved
cards but is a technique far superior than trying to obtain a direct break on the cards as in
same procedures of the Zarrow Shuffle.

When using the technique of the left fourth fingers under the pack you will find
that control of the cards to be unweaved ire easy as the cards are off the table and easily
grasped. When working with the deck flat on the table it is best to insure a large bed of
cards in order to raise the section to be unweaved, off the table in order that the fingers
may grasp them easily and not have to dig for them.

While most of the action has been described using the right hand, they can of
course be used as well by the left hand.

On many occasions you will come across the type of person who will practically
rest his nose on the edge of the table in order to spot the large blocks merely moving
together rather than meshing as in a normal shuffle In this case the following procedure
will fit the bill.

Proceed in the way already outlined for the Zarrow Shuffle until you get into the
position shown in figure 50.

At this point unweave the packets but keep the cards in the same general condition
as in figure 50.

19
 Now tilt the whole deck forward so that backs of the cards face directly toward the
spectator. This is seen in figure 53, the audience view.

From here merely push the cards flush using both hands. The figure 54 shows the
hand positions after squaring in the upright positions.

To use the above, you of course must be sure that all cards have been unweaved;
however, you can carry insurance as follows: if you feel some cards have been caught
merely place the tip of the left third finger onto the left hand packet at the lower left hand
corner. From the front the situation would be similar to that seen in figure 54; however
the true situation would be as in figure 55, a front view, where the third left finger
prevents the top section from moving flush with bottom section. Naturally the few
weaved cards are still in line with this top section, thus these cards are in a strip out
condition, Rest of fingers hide the jog from front.

The above technique of figure 55 con actually be used as a regular Strip Out
Shuffle, In other words, use the procedure of the "Simplex Strip Out" but tip the deck on
its side in squaring and of course maintaining the Strip Out condition thru the use of the
left third finger, keeping top block in place so it appears as if the pack was pushed flush.

From position of figure 54 the pack is lowered to table, being sure left fingers stay
in place to hide the jog on the left. From here proceed with the required Strip Out to
conclude the actions.

The underlying idea of tilting the pack forward and on its side, during the Zarrow
Shuffle, is Art Altman's. I merely have changed the underlying technique which I believe
is an improvement over the original method.

This brings to a close this section on False Shuffles. In the sections that follow, it
will be assumed the student understands the hand positions for the various shuffles and is
familiar with the technique of moving over a block of cards to either the right or left with
either hand. They will be referred to as "Block Transfers". Described in the next section,
with variations and applications.

20
 PATENTED SHUFFLE SIDELIGHTS
It will have been noted that in the Patented Shuffle, the controlling principle is the
fact that the third finger and thumb never really let go of the portion that is to be kept
under control. Here the same control idea is applied to the opposite hand to give you a
variation of a Strip Out Shuffle that originally appeared in "Riffle Shuffle Systems".
Particular note should be made of the fact that the manner of telescoping the packets also
prevents corner break thru, showing at front side or spectator's view.

Undercut about sixteen cards, with right, to the right. In doing the shuffle the left
thumb lifts up only a portion of its cards, leaving about a dozen cards behind. The riffle
shuffle is started at this point.

End the riffle shuffle so that a block of about a dozen cards is also left on top. In
essence you have merely shuffled the small packet of right hand section into the' center of
the large portion as shown in figure 56.

Telescope the cards into each other but the right hand moves its cards so that they
ride in back of the left hand portion as in figure 57, which is exaggerated as actually the
right hand portion is inward only for the with of' its white border.

Continue pushing the right packet into left hand packet until you are as almost
flush as possible; with the ends, without losing control of the right hand portion of cards
between the right third finger and thumb.

In order to enable you to get the ends as flush as possible the left thumb sort of
rocks back, at inner left corner, to permit the right hand portion to move in further as seen
in figure 58. Bear in mind this is exaggerated as actually, at this stage, the cards look
fairly flush.

The right third finger tip and ball of right thumb still has a good firm control of its
cards. The right fingers now lift up its cards slightly which will leave a block of cards;
these are originally from left hand section, free at bottom, The left fingers grasp these
cards and cut them to the top, but in a stepped condition to the right as in figure 59.

Note that the bottom block, which has been cut to the top, is also in line with the
right hand section of cards which are in a Strip Out condition.

Next Strip-Out the right hand section, taking the bottom block, now on top, with it
as in figure 60.

21
 Follow the forward Strip Out by leaving this section on table as right hand comes
back to take remainder of cards, from left hand, to place these on top of the tabled cards.
The deck is back to its original order.

If it is desired to retain the deck in the hands, then instead of the forward Strip Out
merely place this section to under the cards remaining in the left hand. The pack is of
course still in order.

You will note that in doing the Strip Out there is an automatic separation in right
hand, between those cards actually stripped out and the block of cards taken with them.
This can be used to certain advantage at times. An example is the following multiple
cutting action.

In this case start the shuffle by right hand cutting off about 16 cards off top of
deck. Shuffle this section into center of left portion and set up for the Strip Out as already
explained.

Undercut the bottom block to top as before, making your Step on the left. Do the
forward Strip Out Cut which will leave right thumb automatically separating the stripped
out section and the block as in figure 61.

As right hand moves to the right, the right thumb releases the lower section below
the break and then right hand places remaining cards and in front of first portion.

15 Right hand comes back to take the cards from left hand. Right hand slaps these
cards onto the packet nearest you (original stripped out top section) but in an end jog to
the left leaving a step on the right as in figure 62.

Both packets are picked up and placed onto remaining section so that left end of
upper and lower packets coincide and center portion remains jogged on the right as seen
in figure 63

Right hand pulls assembled packets in front of performer. Right hand now cuts the
jogged center section to top and deck is back in its original position.

While the Patented Shuffle has the cards being moved in more or less at an angle,
the straight pushing plus the front riding of the cards can be used as seen in the figure 64
which is an open view and without the Top Block Cover that is there when applying the
Block Transfer. In other words this front riding action will be amply covered by the Free
Riding Block as used in a Block Transfer. Note that now it is the right thumb that rocks
back and pushes the cards still further to get the ends as flush as possible and still not lose
control of left hand portion of cards that are firmly held between left 3rd fingertip and

22
ball of left thumb. From here the regular Strip Out actions described can be applied with
the Block Transfer.

In conclusion, it will be noted that I have described every shuffle with the third
finger and thumb as controlling factors. The reason is that use of the third finger leaves
the first and second fingers at front ends of the deck and thus gives more cover to any end
jogs that may occur during shuffles and cuts; however, there isn't any reason to use the
second finger and thumb as controlling factors providing the jogs can be as effectively
concealed and this can be possible if the jogs are made as fine as one can make them. The
choice of whether to be neat and precise with the shuffles or more casual and at times
even sloppy is up to the individual.

From a magical angle, there are arguments on both sides. From the standpoint of
deportment at a card table, the natural and casual approach is the best. What is natural
and casual for one man may not be for another. It is up to the individual to analyze
himself and act accordingly.

MARLO TECHNIQUE FOR THE TOP AND BOTTOM SLIP CUT

TOP SLIP CUT

Deck face down on table lengthwise in front of performer.

Both hands come over to deck for the cut but just before the cut you make the
following adjustment.

With right thumb pull upwards, on about half the deck, at back side of course,
forming a break.

Left forefinger presses down on top card as right fingers move out the portion
below the top card and up to the break, for only a fraction of an inch, after which
everything is released but both hands still are around the deck.

After step 4 the deck is in the condition shown in figure 1 but of course the hands
hide this situation.

The thumbs of each hand come at extreme ends of deck, i.e. where the single card
is, on the left, and where the jogged packet is, on the right. From above the position of the
fingers and thumbs is shown in figure 2. jogged portion covered by right hand from
above.

23
 You will find it a simple matter to cut out the jogged portion on the right, with
right fingers, and thumb, while retaining top card in position with left fingers and thumb.

The above cut simulates taking the under portion and placing it to the top as you
complete the cut.

Sometimes it is necessary to apparently cut the cards by taking off the top half,
carrying it to the right, then following it with the under half which of course is placed
onto the previously cut off top portion, In this case you use the same Pre-setting idea
except that the left thumb lifts up at back, while right fingers take the under portion and
carry it slightly to the right, plus the right forefinger also takes along the top card. In this
case, after this pre-set the deck will be as shown in figure 3 with the jogged portion of
cards on the left while top card is jogged over to the right in line with the lower portion.
In other words, in reverse to fig.1.

The position of both hands is exactly as shown in figure 2, but now the right
fingers take top card and lower portion to carry it to the right. Have the right forefinger
tip near the front edge of cards as per figure 4. This is so the top card will quickly mesh
onto the lower portion so that there is no obvious separation as the cut is made.

The right hand now comes back, takes the remainder and places it on top of the
other portion to complete what simulates a forward table cut.

I think there are three distinctions in describing a Slip Cut; one is in the hands, the
other on the table but remaining in front of the performer as in the Erdnase Cut and the
other is when the cutting as you at the same time move the deck in position for the dealer
to deal. The Slip Cuts in the hand are strictly for magic but those on the table can be used
in both magic and otherwise.

BOTTOM SLIP CUT.

The Bottom Slip Cut has been devised by us to keep a card, or a number of cards,
at the bottom of the pack after seemingly giving the pack a single cut. The cut is made to
simulate a regular table cut. Its advantages are (1) that it being easier to control a bottom
stock than a top stock, (2) the cut looks like a cut because the slipping of the card or cards
is on the bottom and thus concealed.

Card or cards on bottom kept there during shuffle.

Square deck on ends, jogging bottom card to right.

This is accomplished by using first knuckle of left forefinger. If more cards are to
be jogged, use nail of left forefinger.

24
 Square deck at ends card jogged to right
When deck is put down it is like this:

Pull over top portion to right, thus:

Right hand cuts to table upper portion plus lower card or cards:

Complete Cut.

Cards back at bottom after cut.

Note: First knuckle of left forefinger can be used to jog a number of cards;
however the very tip of it is used to do this.

Tip of left knuckle pushes down a group of cards. Action is natural as forefinger
normally is bent under or below deck. Action of jog is simultaneous with bringing a deck
down to table.

USES FOR MARLO'S BOTTOM SLIP CUT

Before going into the various uses for the Bottom Slip Cut, I will describe a few
other techniques of accomplishing it. In describing each technique the position of one
hand may be given but it is understood that the other hand will have the same position on
the opposite end of the pack.

FIRST TECHNIQUE

The fingers, which grasp the ends of the deck, should lie in a horizontal position or
practically in line with the length of the pack. In this position, it will be found that the
fourth finger will lie against the face of the deck, the second and 3rd fingers will be
across the front side of the deck, the first finger will lie across the top of the deck and the
thumb will be across the back side of the pack.

This position of fingers is taken by both hands at the opposite sides of the pack.

Second and third fingers on front side of deck.

Fourth fingers lying along bottom of deck and pressing against face card.

With the finger positions as in figure 1 the pack is actually off the table and really
resting on the fourth finger of each hand. Now for the actual Bottom Slip Cut which can
be done in several ways.

25
 In this the bottom card is retained on the left hand portion as follows: left thumb
lifts up half the pack, at back, while right fingers get a firm grip on the lower half. Right
hand now pulls the lower half to the right but the bottom card is retained, by pressure of
left fourth finger against face card. The action is seen in figure 2.

The other action is for the right thumb to lift up top half and in the cutting action,
the right fourth finger, pressing against bottom card, to also take along the bottom card as
seen in figure 3.

You can pre-set the Slip Cut by first jogging the bottom card and then moving
over the top half in line with it, Now figure 4 shows this pre-set condition to retain a
bottom on the left or to carry it off to the right.

The jogging of the bottom card can be made by either pulling with the fourth
finger or pushing with the fourth finger. Next the top half is moved in line accordingly.
Now the top half is moved in line accordingly. The third fingers and thumbs can easily
separate the halves and either one of the Bottom Slip Cuts, to retain or carry away, can be
executed with ease.

SECOND TECHNIQUE
This consists in getting the fourth and third fingers under the pack in order to
retain or carry off the bottom card. Some will find this a lot easier to do especially if the
hands have a tendency to be dry.

Here all the variations, as explained for the first technique, will of course apply.

Use of the fourth and third fingers under the pack will be found quite useful if at
any time one may wish to handle the Bottom Slip Cut while holding or shuffling the pack
lengthwise i.e. the pack being held by the ends rather than the sides.

THIRD TECHNIQUE
This consists in using either thumb to release a card or cards which are then jogged
by pulling them over slightly.

The thumbs can also push down a card or cards which are then pulled over and
jogged.

In either case, the top half is moved over in line with the jogged cards and the
Bottom Slip Cut made to either carry or retain the card or cards .

26
 MARLO'S DOUBLE SLIP CUT
This is useful for distributing both bottom and top cards on a cut. Assume you
have two aces on top of deck and two aces on the bottom.

Using either of the techniques explained you lift up top half of deck with left
thumb, Right hand now starts to pull out the bottom half but at same time right first finger
carries or slips off the top card along with it. Meantime the left fourth finger, assuming
you are using the first technique retains the bottom card. On completion of the cut you
will have an ace at top and bottom of each half.

If you like the right thumb can lift up top half, always done at back only, in order
that right hand can carry this away plus the bottom card while left first finger holds back
the top card. Again after the cut the aces will be distributed on top and bottom of each
half.

The figure 5 shows the double slip cut being done with the bottom half carried
away by the right hand and also with the top half carried away by right hand.

At times it may be necessary to slip more than one card from top and bottom. This
can be done by presetting with jogs and comes under the heading of a Complex type of
Double Slip Cut.

COMPLEX DOUBLE SLIP CUT

Here again the presetting can be arranged so that either the top halt or bottom half
is carried off to the right.

This first is set up to carry bottom half to the right. With right thumb release two
bottom cards which are caught by left thumb. Left fingers can move these two cards to
the left or right hand can move deck to right in order to jog the two bottom cards. Left
fingers now move top half of deck to left in line with bottom jogged cards. Right thumb
(or left if you prefer) lifts up top two cards and moves them to the right. This makes the
situation as seen in figure 6.

With the cards pre set as in figure 6 it is an easy matter for each hand to grasp its
proper sections in order to complete the Complex Double Slip Cut.

Remember you can push down on the bottom cards in order to separate the needed
number of cards. The figure 7 shows a presetting in which the top half will be carried to
the right with bottom cards.

27
 There may be some other special cuts that will be explained in the various effects;
however basically all the information described should be assimilated in order that the
terms be familiar. In other words, if a phrase such as "Make a Bottom Slip Cut carrying
away the bottom half to the right and retaining bottom card on the left" should appear,
you should know what is expected to occur during the described action.

CUTTING THE ACES.

Four aces on bottom of deck. False shuffle to retain there.

Make a Bottom Slip Cut, with top half, also taking the bottom card along to the
right. Turn right hand to show face of packet, an ace.

Remove ace and toss face up to table. Return cards from right hand to top of deck.
False riffle shuffle to retain bottom three aces.

Repeat the Bottom Slip Cut, with top half, plus taking bottom ace to the right.
Show and place ace on table. Return top half and false riffle shuffle to retain the two aces
on bottom.

Repeat Bottom Slip Cut, with top half, plus carrying away bottom ace but this time
turn left hand to show an ace. Place the ace on table. Return cards to top of deck. One ace
is still at bottom of deck.

This time in riffle shuffling, get the ace to second position from the bottom, At this
time you can casually flash the bottom of the deck to show no ace there.

This time do a Bottom Slip Cut by carrying the bottom half with right hand and
retaining bottom card on the left. This will enable you to show the last ace at face of right
hand portion.

ACES AND FOUR PACKETS

Four Aces at bottom of deck. Retain by false riffle shuffles.

With right thumb release two bottom aces and preset for a Bottom Slip Cut by
jogging them to the left. Also move top half to the left and in line with the two jogged
aces. Do Bottom Slip Cut carrying bottom halt to the right. Each half now has two aces
on the bottom.

28
 With the half pack, which is retained in left hand, do a Bottom Slip Cut carrying
bottom half to right and retaining bottom card on left portion. There is now an Ace on the
bottom of each half.

Pick up the remaining half and repeat the Bottom Slip Cut this time carrying away
top half to right plus the bottom card. You will note the change of action on the second
half. This is so that you can attain profficiency in making the Bottom Slip Cut either way.
At any rate for the climax turn over the packets to show an Ace on the face of each.

KINGS AND ACES

Four Aces on the bottom of deck and four Kings on top of deck are retained there
during the course of false riffle shuffles.

Pre-set deck for the Complex Double Slip Cut. (See Fig. 6 or 7) This results in two
Kings and two Aces on top and bottom of each half.

With each half do the Marlo Double Slip Cut. (See Fig. 5) This results in top
cards, of the four packets being Kings and the bottom cards Aces.

Turn over top card of each packet to show four Kings. Now say, "I know you
expected the Aces. Well, I don't want to disappoint you." With this turn each packet face
up to show four Aces. The Kings by this time should have been placed aside i.e. before
disclosing the Aces. (See "Pull Down Move" for another method of the above effect.)

KINGS AND ACES

Second Method
Set-up same as before with four Kings on top and four Aces at bottom which are
retained during false riffle shuffles. (In a riffle shuffle drop 3 cards onto top 4 Kings.
Next do a Top Card Slip Cut by carrying top half to right but retaining top card on left.
Riffle Shuffle to lose Slip Cut Card thus also retaining top and bottom stack. Another Top
Slip Cut by carrying bottom half plus top card to the right. Again riffle shuffle to lose
Top Slipped Card on the right at same time retaining top and bottom stack. Follow by a 3
Way Cut as follows: With right hand carry bottom 3rd of deck plus top card and deposit
this packet forward on table. Next take top portion of cards that are still in left hand, to
place these next to first packet. Drop remaining packet, from the hands, onto the first
packet. Pick up remaining packet and drop it onto rest of deck. The 4 Kings are still on
top and 4 Aces at bottom.

29
 With right thumb release bottom two cards and left thumb jogs these cards to the
left thus presetting for the Bottom Slip Cut by moving top half to left and in line with the
jogged Aces.

Carry bottom half to right retaining jogged cards under top half. At this stage you
have two Aces on the bottom of each half but the 4 Kings are on top of left hand portion.

Riffle Shuffle using either Marlo Strip Cut or Zarrow Shuffle to Block Transfer
two of the Kings onto the right hand portion. Each half now has two Aces at bottom and
two Kings at top.

Take one half and do a Bottom Slip Cut of the bottom portion to right retaining
bottom card on left portion. You now have an Ace on bottom of each portion and two
Kings on top of left hand portion. Here do a Riffle Shuffle, using either Marlo Strip Out
or Zarrow Shuffle, to Block Transfer one card onto right hand portion. This results in a
King on top of each portion with the Aces remaining on the bottom of each portion.

Repeat actions of step 5 with the remaining half of deck. You now will have a
King on top of each of the four packets while the Aces will be the bottom cards of each
packet.

Conclude by turning over top cards of each packet to disclose the four Kings.
Place each King aside as you say, 'I know you expected Aces. Well I don't want to
disappoint you." With this turn each packet face up to disclose the Aces.

TRIPLE PACKET DISCLOSURE

Have three cards peeked at via the Triple Peek. Control these via the Drop Cut
which will result in selections l and 2 on top and third selection on the bottom. (See
Control Systems for above control.)

In a riffle shuffle retain the top two cards and the bottom one but at same time
angle the cards as if about to do a Strip Out; however, this angling will enable you to get
a break, under top two cards with left thumb as you square up the pack. With right hand
undercut half the pack to the top with left thumb maintaining the break, Again undercut,
with right hand, this time at the break and split deck for a riffle shuffle, Riffle Shuffle
letting the 3 selections, on the left hand half, fall first thus bringing all 3 selections to the
bottom in 1-2-3 order from face to back.

Follow this next closely. With right thumb push down on bottom card and then jog
it to the right. The left thumb lifts up the top half. Now as right hand takes the under half

30
the left 4th finger must retain the second card from the bottom. The jogging of the
original bottom card to the right enables left fingers to contact this second card for the
above Bottom Slip Cut the action of which is shown in Fig. 8.

Continue the action, started as per Fig. 8, to place the under halt on top but jogged
to the right as seen in Fig. 9. Note the positions of the selections at this point.

Next move over half of the top cards that are already jogged. This results en a
situation as shown in Fig. 10 where top section is now in line with jogged card.

Remove the top section plus the jogged card and carry them to the top and flush
with the bottom half. This results in a center packet remaining unjogged as in Fig. 11.
Again note how the 3 selections are distributed at this stage.

With right hand cut out the jogged center section, keeping a break with left thumb
between the deck at that point. Right hand places its section forward to center of table.
Situation is now as in Fig. 12.

With right hand cut off top section up to break and retain this portion in right hand
while left hand keeps hold of its portion.

Ask for first selection to be named and turn over right hand portion to disclose it.
The left hand turns over its portion to disclose the second selection. Now right hand
reaches over and turns over the last or third portion to disclose the third selection.

It will be noted that the three selections have been disclosed from right to left to
center; however, they can be disclosed left to right to center by merely cutting top portion
to left. The choice is up to the individual.

A variation, in the event you want to avoid 'take a card effect', is to have one Ace
on top and three Aces on the bottom. Now false shuffle to retain them and after a false
cut place the top Ace aside without showing. Another false shuffle or two and then follow
with the Slip Cuts as already described, to make 3 packets. Turn over the lone Ace first
then rapidly follow by turning over the three packets to show the Aces at face of each
portion.

While I have given one way of cutting and distributing 3 cards with 3 packets
there are several other ways or combinations to get the same results. For example with 3
selections on the bottom. With right hand lift up top third of deck and do a Bottom Slip
Cut carrying top portion to right plus the bottom card (first selection). Repeat this same
action with the remainder of deck to get second selection leaving third selection on
bottom of cards still' in left hand. The packets have selections in one-two-three order.

31
 Again you can change the second cutting action by doing a Bottom Slip Cut with
bottom half to right and retaining bottom card on the left. In this way the selections
would be in 2-3-1 order from left to right.

As has been pointed out, there are many combinations that con be worked out in
using the Bottom Slip Cut but here will be recorded a method that appears as three
packets are formed in one action although a pre-setting is made.

Begin by pushing down, with right thumb, on bottom card and jog this to the right.
With left fingers now jog the second card from the bottom to the left. This is seen in Fig.
13.

With left thumb lift up top third of pack and move it to left in line with jogged
card. With right thumb lift up half of those cards that are below the jogged portion and
move these to the right in line with the jogged card on the right. Fig. 14 shows the
situation at this stage.

Both hands now grasp their respective jogged packets plus the jogged cards in line
with each packet. Pull the hands apart thus causing the center packet to fall free of the
rest. The action is seen in Fig. 15.

The separated packets now have the selections in 2-3-1 order from left to right.
Here again Aces can be used in place of selections.

As has been pointed out the various combinations are numerous and eventually the
student will discover for himself those that suit him or his purpose best.

In conclusion, the Bottom Slip Cut can be used as a Block Slip Cut in order to
retain a large group of cards at the bottom, say a block of 4 Aces and Kings at bottom.
These are moved or jogged to right. The top half of deck is moved to right in line with
jogged cards as in Fig. 16. From here do a Block Slip Cut carrying top half plus the Block
to the right then complete the cut by placing remaining portion on top, The Block remains
at bottom.

ALTERNATED ACE CUTTING

Four Aces on bottom of deck are alternated with X cards between them. Thus from
face of deck you have an X-Ace-X-Ace-X-Ace-X-Ace.

False shuffle to retain bottom stack but just before cutting flash the bottom card so
spectator can see there is no Ace there.

32
 Do a Bottom Slip Cut, of top half, to right with left finger, retaining bottom card
on left packet. Turn right hand to show Ace at face of packet.

Left hand peels off the Ace and tosses it face up to table. Left hand now returns to
table packet and left thumb lifts up top card, at left side corner, in order to get a break,
with left thumb, under this card.

Right hand slaps its packet face down onto tabled portion but jogged to the right
for half its length. Now right hand pushes top portion flush with deck. Due to left thumb
already having a break you have a separation for a cut at the break.

With right hand undercut the bottom half up to the break, riffle shuffle letting
cards from left hand fall first in order to retain Ace set-up at bottom.

At this stage you now have two indifferent cards preceding the Ace. Tilt deck
upwards on its side in order to flash bottom card. Do a Bottom Slip cut of bottom portion
to right with left fingers retaining a bottom card with top half. Riffle shuffle letting cards
from right hand fall first. After the shuffle again tip cards so spectator can see bottom
card. He sees a new bottom card and assumes you have actually shuffled the bottom
cards.

Again repeat step 3 - to disclose the second Ace.

Repeat Steps 4-5 and 6.

Here again you will have two indifferent cards preceding an Ace; therefore repeat
Step 7 to lose one of these.

From here repeat step 3 to disclose third Ace.

From here you repeat all steps from 4 to 7 and then Step 3 to disclose last Ace.

Note: for greater deception on Bottom Slip Cut, move halves outward and away
from each other in arrowed directions; not in a straight line. See figure 17.

SHUFFLE AND CUT DISCOVERY OF FOUR ACES

First Method:

Four Aces on top. Cut off top half to right, Shuffle and block off Aces with about
top Ten cards from left hand portion, as per figure 1.

33
 Set up for Strip Out. Press down, on inner left corner, with left thumb and press
inwards to get break, with left thumb at inner end. Situation is as in Figure 2.

Undercut bottom portion, with right hand, as left hand keeps break on remainder
of cards, as per figure 3.

Riffle shuffle, at same time retaining break on the left hand portion, in such a
manner as to again block off the Aces but with a block of cards from right hand portion.
This is seen in figure 4.

Now set up as for a Strip Out Shuffle. From top the pack will of course appear as
in figure 5 with the cards projecting at inner left end.

The two hands move into the position shown in figure 6, which shows the finger
positions of each hand.

The tip of left third finger can now actually press down on the outer right corner
and thus engage or keep in place the actual Aces as the right hand pulls off top section to
the right for another shuffle. This last shuffle is made to bring the four Aces back to the
top of the deck. Figure 7 shows the left end view of the deck and is an exaggeration of the
step that the tip of third finger will engage.

You will know when you are correct as soon as you pull off the top portion to the
right because the left hand portion cards will appear, from top, as in the figure 8, which is
actually a strip-out condition.

At any rate the Aces are now back on top and the shuffles have convinced that
nothing is under control. Take off top Ace and place it aside face down.

Rest of deck is now shuffled by cutting off top half to left. Block off two of the
Aces and let one fall on top as seen in figure 9.

In pushing the packets set up as for a Strip Out similar to figure 5. Now the fingers
and thumbs of both hands squeeze sides of deck to bring it into the Strip Out condition as
in figure 10, where you will note that the top Ace has been at same time transferred to the
cards that are jogged to the right.

The tip of left forefinger now presses down on the step at left end as right hand
carries off top portion to center of table. The situation is as in figure 11.

34
 As right hand cuts off its portion, the left first finger moves the top card, of its
portion, to the right. This results in top Ace being in line with those cards that are jogged
to the right as in figure 12.

The right hand now comes over and both hands merely strip apart the cards as in
figure 13, which results in an Ace being on top of each packet.

Both hands as they do the strip out, move outwards in an arc as in figure 15.

After the Strip Out Cut the layout of the three packets and the original single face
down Ace is as shown in the figure 15.

Turn over single card to show Ace. Next turn top card of each packet to show
Aces.

The actual cutting of deck, into three packets, is done smoothly with little
hesitation between the first and last two cuts or strip out cut.

Second Method:

Three Aces on top and one on the bottom. These are kept at top and bottom and
the same series of shuffles previously described, to keep top stock, can be used here
except just remember to retain the bottom Ace which will be found simple enough, even
though you repeat the steps 1 to 9 of the First Method.

With three Aces back on top and one Ace at bottom, cut off a small portion from
top, with right hand. Riffle shuffle, letting bottom Ace on left hand portion, fall first.
Now continue to riffle but block off one Ace, on right side, holding back two Aces to fall
on top. The situation is an in figure 16.

Now set up as for a Strip Out. This will result in top two Aces also moving over
toward inner left corner. Therefore, merely kick or move these over in line with rest of
top cards. This will now expose the step at inner left side as in fig. 17.

With left thumb press down on the step and move thumb inwards, thus squeezing
the cards and at same time getting a break, with left thumb, at this end The condition is
now as in the figure 18, with two Aces on top , one below the break and one on the
bottom.

Holding the break with left thumb the right thumb lifts up, at back end, about half
the cards above the break and does a Slip Cut. In other words, the right fingers pull out

35
the lifted section as left first finger presses down on top card in order to keep it back. The
action of this Center Slip Cut is seen in figure 19.

Right hand immediately slides its block of cards onto top of deck but left thumb
obtains a break on this block also. This results in left thumb now holding two breaks and
the distribution of the Aces is now, top of first section, top of second section, top of third
section and one on the bottom of deck. Figure 20 shows the situation at this stage. See
illustration top of next page.

Left thumb now maintains the breaks as right hand undercuts half of the cards
from bottom. The result is then as in figure 21.

The left hand now moves to the left and rapidly releases, from the bottom up, each
section up to their breaks. This will result in three packets on left of table.

Right hand turns its packet face up to disclose an Ace. Left hand now turns up top
card of each packet to show an Ace on top of each; result of effect is as seen in figure 22.

Third Method:

Here all four Aces are on top. Keep them there during a shuffle.

When ready to go into the cutting start by cutting off a small portion, from top, to
the right. In the Riffle Shuffle you hold back 3 Aces, on the right, but block off the one
Ace by a block that will comprise about two thirds of the deck.

Set up as for a Strip Out, then in squaring the deck, left thumb gets its break.
Result is as in figure 23, with three Aces on top of deck and one Ace below the break.
Note large upper block of cards.

Right thumb now lifts up about two thirds of the block that is, above the break, and
does a Center Slip Cut This results in two Aces going, to top of deck and two breaks
being held by left thumb

Below each break is an Ace. The figure 24 shows condition of the deck. Note that
upper section is a block of about half the deck now. Figure 24 is at top of next page.

Right thumb now lifts up half the cards of top section and does a center Slip Cut,
as per figure 25, to hold one of the Aces back and carry the other with the block taken by
right hand.

36
 Right hand deposits its block of cards, with an Ace on top, to the right. Left hand,
which has retained the breaks, can now drop off each section, on the left, using only the
left hand. Or if preferred, the right hand, after its first Slip Cut, can come back and cut off
each packet, one at a time, to its respective break. The packets are placed in a long line as
per figure 26.

All that remains is to turn over top card of each packet to show an Ace.

Fourth Method:

Keep control of the four Aces on top of deck

Cut off a small portion from top of deck to the right. In a riffle shuffle, block off
one Ace with a block comprising about half the deck while the other three Aces are held
back to fall on top of deck.

Set up as for a Strip Out and in squaring get break with left thumb, over central
Ace. Result is as in figure 26.

With right thumb, lift up about half of those cards above the break and do a Center
Slip Cut and at same time left gets a break below this block as it is returned to the top of
the deck. Result.

With right hand take half of the block from the bottom of deck; at the same time
the right first finger presses on top card of deck, an Ace, to Slip Cut it onto the bottom
block being undercut. The action is seen in figure 28.

Right hand carries its cards to the right. Left hand retains its cards with left thumb
maintaining the breaks

At this stage, the left hand alone can drop off each packet to its break or the right
hand can come back and cut off each packet to its break. However, for a change of pace
the following is effective.

Undercut, with right hand, the bottom section up to the break and carry it to the top
in a jogged position to the right. Immediately right hand grasps these two flush sections
as left hand moves out the under section to jog it. This results in a flush deck but with a
stepped condition as in figure 29.

Both hands are around the cards at this stage. Left hand grasps its jogged portion
and same with right hand grasping the jogged portion on the right. The outer section is
more or less supported by the third fingers of each hand at the packet's outer left and right
corners. Both right and left thumbs are free of this center packet and are holding the inner

37
corners of their respective packets. Now separate both hands, letting center section fall to
table as at same time the hands deposit their packets on each side of this packet forming a
long line in front of operator as in figure 30.

All that remains is to turn up the top card of each packet, starting at the packet first
cut to the table, to show four Aces.

Fifth Method:

This will be found quite an easy method by comparison, but nevertheless effective.
Again the four Aces are controlled so they remain on top.

This time block off two Aces in the center of deck during the course of the shuffle,
and square up. A break is of course held by the left thumb and the situation is as in figure
31.

With right thumb, lift up half the cards of those shown above the break and do a
Center Slip Cut as in figure 32, to carry this portion forward to table.

Right hand now comes and cuts off those cards up to the break to place these
alongside first packet. There is an Ace on top of each of these two packets. The
remaining half deck, held by left hand, has two Aces on top.

This time left thumb lifts up half of the cards while right hand grasps the bottom
section plus top Ace to thus Slip Cut it onto the cards being undercut by the right hand.
This action is seen in figure 33, plus the other two packets already cut.

The above now results in one Ace on top of each packet.

Sixth Method:

This method in most unusual in that it requires no Slip Cuts. The cards merely
seem to be Riffle Shuffled, then four packets are cut off from top of deck, an Ace is on
top of each. Start with four Aces on top of deck.

This time cut off a very small section, from top, to the left. This section should
have about 12 to 16 cards for best working.

Now riffle the halves in such a manner that when you have dropped off the first
Ace, holding back three Aces, in the left section, you will have about a twenty card block,
or better, held back in right hand section. The figure 34 shows this condition, with one
Ace ready to be blocked off.

38
 Now from right hand section, let about seven cards riffle off, then an Ace from left
section, then again about seven cards, and then another Ace, then finally the last few
cards with the last Ace on top. Thus the figure 35 shows how the Aces have been
distributed with blocks of cards between each.

Set up as for a Strip Out which will result in a situation as shown in figure 36, a
view from top and left end view.

Place the hands over the deck with the finger positions as shown in figure 37,
where you will note that tip of left third finger has moved over the top Ace in line with
the projecting cards on performer's side. Also tip of left third finger is now pressing down
on the projecting corner of the next Ace.

The left third finger now keeps the rest of the cards back as right fingers milk off
the top section of cards as in figure 38

The milked off block is placed off to the right. The process of milking off the next
packet is repeated by simply executing steps 6 and 7, figure 37 and 38.

You will find that moving the Ace in line with the tip of the left second finger and
holding next Ace in place with tip of left third finger is a good technique that causes no
hesitation as the tip of the left third finger can quickly feel, locate and press onto the next
Ace in order to keep it in place.

Do the milk off for three packets only but on the last packet, square it, then cut off
top half. You can now show top card of each packet an Ace.

The six methods outlined are only a few of the countless variations one can make
using these basic principles. As to how, when or where the Slip Cuts and other cuts are
made can make the same mechanics appear entirely different to the eye Knowing exactly
what comes next will add to the smoothness and ease of execution sooner than a mastery
of the techniques involved Of course, practicing the techniques and mastering them is
important; however, if you have to step and think as to what comes next, then even a
great technique will not make them smooth and easy looking.

Here are several other methods that some may wish to-try. Even though they do
not completely use a table riffle, they can be changed to this if so desired.

FOUR SHUFFLES ACE LOCATION

Four Aces on top of deck. Under cut bottom half to top, with right hand, as left
first finger pushes over top Ace. After cut, Ace is side-jogged on right as per figure 1.

39
 Square ends but right fourth finger pushes in on outer right corner of side jogged
Ace. This causes Ace to become angle jogged with inner left corner coming thru on inner
left side of deck.

Left thumb lifts up on angle jogged Ace as right hand undercuts bottom section to
right. Riffle shuffle, being sure to get angle jogged Ace to bottom and at same time get
remaining three Aces, which are top of right hand portion, to top of deck. Square up

Left hand grasps deck at sides and then turns pack face up to show an Ace at
bottom Right hand peels off Ace and tosses it to table.

As left hand turns down, to return deck to table for another shuffle, the left first
finger at same time pushes forward the top Ace, thus side jogging it to the right.
Immediately the right hand under cuts bottom half of deck to top. Situation is again as in
figure 1 Repeat steps 2, 3, 4, to locate second Ace.

Repeat steps 5 to set third Ace, then repeat steps 2, 3, 4 to locate third Ace. Same
action for fourth Ace.

FOUR ACE SHUFFLE AND PACKET CUT DISCOVERIES

After spectators shuffle, you do the "Order cull" so that two Aces will be on top of
deck and two Aces in center with one Ace injogged to keep location. Deck is, at this
stage, face down in left hand. Injogged Ace is upper or top Ace of the two in center.

Use an overhand shuffle as follows. Obtain a break at injog. Shuffle off top two
Aces and injog the third card, and then shuffle off to the break. Obtain a break at injog
(this separates the two Aces at the bottom of the deck) and undercut half the deck. Injog
the first card, then shuffle off to the break. Result is now two Aces on top of the deck and
two Aces below the injogged card. Hold deck face down in left hand, as for dealing.

In squaring up the deck, with the right hand from above, a left fourth finger break
is obtained below the injogged card, or above the two central Aces.

Situation is now as in figure 1.

Right thumb at back end, pulls up half the cards of section 1. Right fingers remove
this section but left thumb, pressing on back of top card, keeps the top Ace back as in
figure 2.

Right hand drops its packet to the table, then comes back and now takes off all the
cards up to the break. This packet is dropped to the table alongside the first packet. The

40
situation now is as in figure 3 with section 2 still in left hand and two packets, Aces on
top of each, on the table.

This particular method of Slip Cutting the Ace is the Marlo Slip Cut, which can be
done as outlined or strictly in the hands. Anyway, repeat the Marlo Slip Cut on the
second section by taking only half of this portion as you hold hack the top Ace. This third
packet is dropped to the table followed by the fourth and remaining half. Square up each
packet neatly and then turn the top card of each packet to disclose the Aces.

It is no problem to cut the deck into four packets with an Ace on top of each
packet, when the Aces are already in the position shown in figure 1 of two Aces on top
and two in the center. However, when all four Aces are on top the following overhand
shuffle will place them properly as needed.

Run off two top Aces then drop off half the deck onto them and immediately run
off one card injogging it and follow by shuffling off rest of cards.

Get break under injog and shuffle off to break, but continue by running two cards
(Aces), injog next card and shuffle off, getting last two cards (other two Aces) to top. Get
a break with left fourth finger under injogged card.

Situation is now as in figure 1 with two Aces in center and two on top. You can
now proceed to cut the deck into' four packets, Slip Cutting an Ace as needed to result in
an Ace on top of each packet.

THE FOLLOW UP
Aces are face up on top of each of the packets and should be neatly squared up for
best working in the next handling

Start with the first packet on the left. Take the Ace and turning it face down, use as
a scoop to pick up the first packet. This also places the Ace on the bottom. The packet is
placed into the left hand, face down, as for dealing.

The second packet, you turn the Ace face down onto this packet and then place
this packet onto the cards in left hand. Ace is now at top and bottom of the assembled
packets.

Turn the third Ace face down, using it to scoop up the third packet. At the same
time left thumb has pulled down the top Ace of the cards in the hand, thus injogging it.
When the third packet is placed into the left hand, two Aces will be in the center with the
lowermost Ace injogged to mark location. The one Ace is still on the bottom.

41
 In picking up the 4th packet, use the top Ace to scoop up the packet but at the
same time do it in such a manner that this Ace automatically is injogged. Place this
packet onto the cards in the left hand. Two Aces are now injogged. Right hand takes deck
by the sides at inner end, thus covering the jogs as the deck is tabled. Keep right hand on
the right end of deck to cover jogged Aces. The situation is now as in figure 4, top of next
page.

Left hand positions itself at left ends of deck for the start of a Tabled Riffle. With
both hands in position at ends of deck the right third fingertip presses inwards on the
outer right corners of the outjogged Aces. This results in these two Aces becoming angle
jogged at inner left corner as in figure 5, a top view .

The left thumb, at inner left corner, now pulls upwards on these angle-jogged Aces
at same time pushing inwards to square sides of deck. This will result in two breaks
formed and held by left thumb. The condition is seen in figure 6.

In figure 6 you have deck in three sections. Undercut section 3 to the right with
right hand and hold break with left thumb between sections 1 and 2, as in figure 7.

Release Ace from section three, then follow with cards from section 2 in the usual
Riffle Shuffle, but block off the Ace, that is in center, by being sure section one is let fall
last onto the cards of right hand portion. This is seen in figure 8.

After the blocking oft, square up the deck and set up by angling the section three
as for a Strip Out. The situation from top view is an in figure 9.

With left thumb press down on the angled section, thus forming a break at inner
left corner. The deck is now in condition shown in figure 10.

Cut off top portion, up to break, to the right. Release Ace from right hand portion;
followed by a block, to include three Aces from left hand portion, then Riffle Shuffle
normally. The four Aces are now on bottom of deck.

Cut off top half to right. Release bottom four Aces, from left hand portion, first
followed by some cards from right hand portion, then continue the Riffle Shuffle
normally. Telescope the halves for half their length. Tilt pack forward, on its sides, as
you reverse the bottom four Aces with Barnhardt Table Reverse, using either Henry
Christ Technique or Marlo Technique. Cut deck to centralize Aces. Spread pack to reveal
all four Aces together and face up.

42
 BLOCK TRANSFERS
In the "Riffle Shuffle Systems" the student had already been instructed some on
Block Transfers and he should have no trouble following them here. However, it is my
intention to make them as clear as possible in order that one may understand what is
actually taking place. Therefore, while the Patented False Shuttle can be used, or the
Zarrow Shuffle, or any other Strip-Out or Push-Thru Shuffle the descriptions will be done
using the "Simplex Strip-Out" shuffle. In this way the line drawings will more clearly
show what is taking place during each step of the shuffle.

TOP-BLOCK-TRANSFER
While Top Block Transfers have already been described in "Riffle Shuffle
Systems" it here is used for a double purpose. You must realize that most Block Transfers
use a Strip-Out or False Shuffle. Thus actually only the transferred cards are being in any
way disturbed. The rest of the deck remains as it originally may have been set-up. Now it
is a paradox that while you may be obviously using a false shuffle of some sort to control
says 4 Aces or any other 4 of a kind, for some reason it never occurs to them that the rest
of the pack remains intact. Probably the best camouflage of this type is to apparently do
an effect like "Triumph" because keeping a deck in order, during this particular effect, is
never the procedure among even the experts. It stands to reason then that an expert can be
taken in with a stacked deck using such a procedure whereas he may quickly spot an out
and out false shuffle no matter how clever. In essence it is the effect or effects being
produced that blind the onlooker to the fact that the rest of the cards are being kept intact.
Subtle examples of this will be found especially in an effect like "Power Poker No. 2" in
which not only is a stack kept but actually re-arranged during the demonstration. To show
the Top Block Transfer the following effect very common by now, will suffice.

FOUR-ACE LOCATION
(Stacked Deck Retained)
Effect - In effect you show control over tour Aces as you shuffle and cut deck into
4 packets and disclose an Ace on top of each.

Assume you have a deck stacked in your favorite system. You will keep this stack
during the effect.

Spread deck and openly remove the 4 Aces. Turn deck race down and place 4
Aces on top.

43
 Do any one of the False Shuttles already described, such as "In One shuffle" or
"Simplex "Strip-Out" or a Zarrow. These will bring Aces back to top of deck and retain
rest of deck also.

Undercut bottom half, with right hand, to the right. Riffle Shuffle letting 2 cards
from left hand section fall last on top. Actually these two cards are more or less held back
and still under control by left thumb and left second finger. The cards from right hand
section are all released. Right first finger presses down to keep its section in place.

Telescope the packets into each other at same time left fingers move its two cards,
Aces, to the right as in Fig. 1.

Continue pushing or telescoping the packets till you get into position where the
two Aces are over and flush with right hand section and the pack is in a Strip-Out
condition as in Fig. 2.

Fig. 2 of course uses the "Simplex Strip-Out" as an example but of course the
technique of any Strip Out, such as the Patented False Shuffle, can be used.

Right hand and left hand merely hold onto its sections and the pack is stripped
apart, in a forward action to the right, by right hand. This results in the situation being as
shown in Fig. 3 with two Aces on top of each portion. Note the forward position of the
packet on the right.

The half packet A, nearest performer, is now used. Undercut half the packet, with
right hand, to the right. Proceed with the riffle shuffle as before but this time hold back
only one card, an Ace, with left fingers and thumb.

Telescope the cards into each other at same time left fingers move the one card to
the right. This action is identical to that already explained and shown in Fig. 1 except
here only one Ace is being transferred.

Continue pushing the packets together till you get into the position shown in Fig. 2
except only one Ace will be moved over to join right hand portion.

Now do the Strip-Out action with right hand going directly forward and above the
left hand packet. At this stage you have 3 packets on table. The packet A has been split
into two packets namely A1 and A2. All is seen in Fig. 4.

Take packet B and bring it in front of yourself for the shuffle. With right hand
undercut the bottom half to the right in readiness for the riffle-shuffle.

44
 Repeat the identical actions as you did with packet A in transferring one Ace, to
right hand section, then setting up for the Strip-Out.

Right hand strips out its section carrying it forward and above the left hand
portion. The result is 4 packets, as in Fig. 5, with an Ace on top of each packet.

Conclude the effect by turning over the top card of each packet to disclose an Ace,
Toss these face up to one side.

You will note that each packet is marked as A1 and A2, B1 and B2. Assemble the
packets by placing A1 onto A2. These' two assembled packets, now A, are placed onto
B1, All three assembled packets are placed onto B2. The deck is now back in its original
order with the exception of the Aces. The Aces of course con be easily re-inserted into
their proper positions.

Possibly the best stack you could use for this demonstration is the Stay-Stack. In
this way you can have spectator name any four of a kind which you remove and control
as outlined. At the conclusion these four cards are merely placed two on top and two on
the bottom of deck in proper Stay-Stack order. Anyone familiar with the Stay-Stack will
quickly realize that removing any four of a kind does not interfere with the rest of the
Stay-Stack. In fact, at the conclusion, all you really have done is to remove four cards
from their original Stay-Stack position then later make them the top and bottom cards in
Stay-Stack order. If you now throw in a couple of Faro Riffle Shuffles they will be
completely convinced that the pack is in no particular order.

While I have given only one basic routine as a throw-off for a stacked deck it can
be enlarged by adding others. All that you need to keep in mind is that they depend on the
False Shuffles that keeps the rest of the deck intact. Matter of fact this routine is a very
good one to precede "Power Poker No. 1.

BOTTOM BLOCK TRANSFER

In actual practice of the "Bottom Block Transfer" I suggest use of the Patented
Shuffle Technique; however, for the clarity of explanation the "Simplex Strip-Out" will
again be used, Here again a set-up pack can be kept in order while apparently locating or
bringing 4 cards of one value to the face of each packet. Aces will again be the example
cards.

With four Aces brought secretly to bottom of deck undercut half the deck, with
right hand, to the right. Aces are in right section.

Riffle Shuffle as follows: With right thumb release two Aces from the bottom.
Next riffle off, with left thumb, a block of cards onto the two Aces. From here continue

45
the riffle normally but let a block of cards fall last from right hand section. The situation
is now as in Fig. 6.

Telescope the packets into each other until only a quarter inch jog is on left side.
The condition of deck is now as in Fig. 7.

The right hand now merely strips out all the cards except the bottom two Aces.
This strip-out, minus the two Aces, will be found very easy due to the block of cards
above the Aces. This lifts up right hand section making it easy to strip out this portion in
a forward action similar to that already shown in Fig. 3. However, the actual stripping out
action is seen in Fig. 8 which also shows the two Aces being left behind under the left
hand section.

As the right hand strips its portion out the left hand can move its cards slightly to
the right in order to thus cover the 2 Aces being left behind. Of course if you use the
technique of the Marlo Patented False Shuffle you will not need to do this although a
slight raising action of the left hand will insure the bottom two Aces will not be included
in the strip-out by right hand.

The packets are now in a similar position to that shown in Fig. 3 except that there
are two Aces at bottom of packets A and B.

Take packet A and undercut half of it, with right hand, to the right. Here repeat the
same riffle shuffle as per steps 2 and 3 Figures 6 and 7 except here only one Ace will be
released and blocked off.

Telescope the cards into the position as shown in Fig. 7 then do the Strip-Out, to
leave one Ace behind, as per Fig. 8. The packets are now A-1 and A-2 as in Fig. 4 except
Aces are on bottom of the packets.

Repeat the same riffle-shuffle, releasing and blocking off one Ace, in packet B.
After the strip-out the situation will be as in Fig. 5, except an Ace will be on bottom of
each packet.

Turn each packet face up to disclose an Ace on the face of each. Take off the Aces
tossing them aside.

Packets are face up on table. Pick up packet A-1 face up in right hand. Shove-over
face card with right thumb. Use this card as a scoop to go under packet A-2 thus picking
it up onto face of cards in right hand. Push-over the new face card and use it to scoop up
packet B-1 onto face of cards in right hand. Use the new face card as a scoop to pick up
the remaining packet B-2 onto face of assembled cards. The pack is back in order.

46
 The next obvious step is a combination of both top and bottom block transfers to
be described here.

COMBINATION - TOP AND BOTTOM BLOCK TRANSFERS

Assume you have secretly brought 4 Kings to top of deck and 4 Aces to the bottom
of deck. You can also assume the rest of deck is in a Stay-Stack order.

Proceed with any of the false shuffles and cuts to retain the order of the deck. Do
not overdo this first part.

Remember 4 Kings are on top and 4 Aces at bottom. With right hand undercut half
the deck to the right.

With right thumb release two bottom cards, Aces. Next left thumb releases a block
of cards onto the two Aces. Continue now in a normal riffle shuffle but hold back top two
cards, Kings, on left hand section. Left second finger and thumb move these two cards,
Kings, to the right. Remember right first finger sort of presses down on top of its section,
very lightly, in order to keep other cards, from left hand section, in place. The situation is
now as in Fig. 9. Note that top cards from right hand section keep other cards from left
hand section in place. Thus only the two Kings, held back by left thumb, will be moved
forward.

Telescope the cards into each other into the position shown in Fig. 10. Note that
top 2 Kings have been moved over in line with right hand section. Below this is a block
of cards. Under this block, in left hand side, are the other two Kings. On the bottom are 2
Aces marked off by a block. The R.H. block is from right hand portion while the L.H.
block is from left hand section. The deck is in a Strip Out condition. Study the Fig. 10
and compare it with your shuffled deck to insure understanding of the situation.

If you understand the condition of the deck, as in Fig. 10, then you can go into the
Strip-Out as in Fig. 8 except besides leaving 2 Aces behind with L.H. section you will
also be taking 2 Kings to top of R.H. section. The two packets are now A and B as
already shown in Fig. 3 except there-will be two Kings on top of each packets and two
Aces on bottom of each packet.

Take packet A and undercut half of it to the right. Here repeat the same riffle
shuffle as per Fig. 9 except here one Ace will be released on the bottom and one King
will be moved over to the right.

Telescope the cards into the position as shown in Fig. 10 except here again only
one Ace will be blocked off at bottom and only one King has been moved or transferred
to top of right hand portion.

47
 Again do the Strip-Out which will result in a situation similar to Fig. 4 but with a
King on top of packets A1 and A2 and an Ace on the bottom of packets A1 and A2.
Packet B still has two Kings on top and 2 Aces on the bottom.

Take packet B and repeat the same riffle shuffle actions as you did with packet A.
After the Strip Out of this packet the situation will be as seen in Fig. 5 except on top of
each packet will be a King and on bottom of each packet will be an Ace.

Conclude by turning top card of each packet to show 4 Kings. Deal these off to
one side. As an after thought turn each packet face up to disclose the Aces. Deal these off
to the side, In assembling the Ace and Kings get them into a Stay-Stack order placing
four of the cards, two Aces and two Kings, to the bottom and the other four cards to the

Assuming you know the Stay-Stack this part should present no problem. The
pickup or assembling of the packets is of course as before.

At times it does get monotonous to shuffle and cut the cards and disclose say Aces
or any other four of a Kind. It occurred to me that apparently coming up with a complete
miss and then finishing with an unexpected climax would be better. This is especially
great after you have previously shown your location skills with Bay the Aces or any other
four of a kind. Here again the Stay Stack is used. This means that you can do all of the
Ace and King routines as already described. Now after replacing the Aces and Kings, into
the proper Stay-Stack order, cut the deck at 26 and complete the cut thus losing what you
have previously controlled. Do a couple of Faro Riffle Shuffles. The Faro Riffle Shuffle,
in connection with a Stay-Stack, is ideal as all you have to do is cut at 26 and then merely
be sure that whatever you do Faro is perfect. In other words you do not have to start a
perfect in or out Faro - It can be oft center but just make sure that whatever is Faro’s is
perfect.

Having done the above all you do is reverse the order of the top 4 cards of the
deck. The simplest way is to casually run off, in an overhand shuffle, four cards then
throw them back on top as you seem to change your mind and go into a Riffle-Shuffle.

You merely do the same actions as described for the "Combination Top and
Bottom Block Transfers." This will result in the top four cards apparently being
haphazard or a complete miss; however, the bottom card of each packet is a mate to the
top card of that packet.

To fully understand what happened place the A-2-3-4 of Spades on the bottom of
the pack. The Ace is the face card. On top of the deck place the 4-3-2 Ace of Clubs. The
4C is top card. As you can see this is the Stay-Stack System.

48
 From here do the "Combination Top and Bottom Block Transfers." If you have
done this correctly the top card of A-l well be AC - Top card of A-2 will be 2C - Top
card of B1 will be 3C and top card of B2 is the 4C, The bottom card of each packet will
match the top card of each packet.

To present or act it out properly you must turn over the first top card of any packet
with apparent great confidence. Act somewhat shocked that it’s not an Ace and as each
card in turn is revealed face up this should turn to a slight panic leaving you stunned. As
an after thought you say, "Oh, of course, I forgot." Here pick up a packet into left hand.
Take the top card face up with right hand. Left hand turns packet face up and right hand
rests its card, off to right side, on face card of packet. This clearly shows a match. Place
this as is face up to table as you quickly repeat with the other three packets.

All packets are face up with matching pairs at the face. To assemble start by
picking off one card, from the face of each- packet, onto each other as follows: Card from
B2 picked off and placed onto card from B1. Both cards placed onto card from A2. All 3
cards picked up and placed onto cards from A1. All four cards used to scoop up packet
A1 which is now held face up in left hand. Take off face card from packet A1 and drop it
onto packet A2. Pick up packet A2 and place it onto the cards in left hand. Take off two
face cards from cards in left hand. Drop these onto packet B1. Pick up packet B1 and
drop it race up onto face up cards in left hand. Thumb off three face cards from left hand
and drop these onto packet B2, last packet, and then pick up packet B2 to place onto face
up cards in left hand. Deck is now back in its original Stay-Stack order. The first pick up
is easy to remember by starting at B2 then B1 - then A2 and A1. The second pick up is
just the opposite or starting at A1 then A2 - B1 and B2. In diagram form the second
pickup, which is most often used to keep whole deck in order, is as in Fig. 11. S is start
and numbers 1-2-3 show how packets are placed onto each other as assembled.

In "Riffle Shuffle Systems" on pages 77 to 81 inclusive the student will find a

system of getting set-up with blocks of cards or sets. The action is depicted in Figures
132 and 133 in "Riffle Shuffle Systems." Before going further into Block Transfers I
would suggest the student re-read the section on how to obtain and maintain these sets or
blocks. It will also make the additional techniques to be described easier to understand.

OBTAINING AND MAINTAINING

In this first example it is assumed the student is familiar with the method of
releasing cards from under one thumb which in turn are caught by the other thumb as per
Fig. 132 in "Riffle Shuffle Systems". Use of the Break and Step will be given for a stack
of 4 Aces, in just one shuffle, so that the idea may be fully in one description.

The hands are positioned at each end of the deck as if ready to cut the deck for a
shuffle. The four Aces are on top of deck.

49
 With hands in position, as above, the right thumb lifts up about two thirds of the
pack on the operator's side. Now right thumb releases or thumb counts four cards and left
thumb catches these and keeps them separated from lower portion of deck.

Next right hand moves its cards slightly to the right, just for its white border
length. Right thumb now releases another four cards which fall flush onto those
previously released but a Step is formed at inner end and a jog at outer end.

Once more the right hand moves the balance of its cards to the right and again
right thumb releases or counts off four cards. After tile the deck is split for the shuffle.

After this the condition of the deck is as in Fig. 12 with the break and steps in left
hand section and 4 Aces on top of right hand portion.

The Riffle is now started in the usual manner as the cards are interlaced from the
bottom up; however, as the left thumb nears the break it holds back an extra four cards
just before this break. The right thumb has meantime riffled off all its cards except the
top four Aces which it holds back.

The situation is now as shown in Fig. 13 where the left thumb not only holds the
three blocks separated from rest of deck but an additional four cards are being held back
just below the three blocks. -The right thumb has held back the top four cards of its
portion.

At this stage the right thumb releases its lowermost card or Ace, then left thumb
releases its lowermost four cards to thus fall onto the Ace. The next or second Ace is
released, by right thumb, to fall onto shuffled portion. After these releases the left thumb
still holds its three blocks while right thumb as yet retains two Aces which are slightly
spread -apart as seen in Fig. 14.

Next the left hand moves its three blocks downwards and against the two Aces in
right hand thus engaging the inner left corners of the Aces between the blocks at their
inner right corners as shown in Fig. 15. Note that the two Aces as well as the three blocks
sort of separate as the weaving action is made.

You may find the meshing of the Aces, into between the blocks, a lot easier if the
left hand blocks sort of hit the Aces at an angle as the three blocks are moved outwards
and against the Aces. Thus the ends would be seen as in Fig. 16 from the top. Note that
the corners of the blocks are moved more or less against the center (ends) of the Aces
thus making the meshing easier and surer.

50
 The four Aces are now every fifth card after one Riffle Shuffle. The shuffle can be
made simpler if you want to make the Aces the first card in a five card deal. As the one
Ace will be the top card obviously you will need one less block. Thus simplifying the
action of getting ready.

The Riffle Shuffle itself can be made simpler if you start with a Slip Cut to hold
back one Ace on the left hand portion.

Naturally the fewer cards you stack the less blocks you will need. At such times
you will find the other methods more expedient as for example the second Method to
follow.
Second Method
In certain routines it will be required to obtain and maintain two blocks yet the
preliminary action of first releasing these cards before the cut will not be possible or
practical. For this reason the following ruse will be found most expedient.

For the explanation of the action assume you have three Aces on top and wish to
stack these into a five handed game.

Cut off top half to right, with right hand. Now the left thumb gives the left hand
portion a "Preliminary Riffle" which will pass oft as a start of a shuffle that sort of
slipped. You have to bear this approach in mind if you are to feel guiltless when doing
this action.

During the "Preliminary Riffle" the left thumb only riffles its portion upwards. The
right hand remains motionless.

The Preliminary Riffle is made just as if you were doing or rather attempting the
riffle shuffle. Actually the left thumb riffles its cards upwards starting near the top. As
this is done the left thumb lets all cards riffle off except four which are held back as seen
in Fig. 17 where you will note that right hand is motionless.

Once the left thumb has its four cards the left thumb moves downwards with its
cards but a separation or break is maintained, with ball of left thumb, between the top
four cards and rest of deck, This is shown in the Fig. 18 where the cards really are flush
near front end but a break is actually held, at inner left corner, by left thumb.

This time both hands raise the packets for the Riffle Shuttle. The left thumb, which
is still holding the break below the original top four cards, riffles off its cards until
another four cards is held back. Thus at this stage the left thumb has two separate blocks
of four cards each, The right thumb has at the same time held back the top 3 Aces during

51
the riffle shuffle, At this stage the hand situation is as seen in Fig. 19A while the clearer
picture Fig. 19B shows conditions.

From here the right thumb first releases one Ace then left thumb releases its first
four cards to fall onto the Ace. Next the second Ace is released by right thumb followed
by the remaining four cards from under left thumb. The last Ace, from under right thumb,
is let fall last or on top. The 3 Aces are now set to fall into the first hand in a five-handed
game.

It must be remembered that it is not so much the stacking of the cards but rather
the method of obtaining the sets of four cards that is being brought out here.

The Fig. 17 uses the Open Shuffle method to get the first set of cards; however, the
"Closed Shuffle" method can also be used. The Fig. 20 shows left thumb doing the
"Preliminary Riffle" for the first set of cards. From here the rest would be the same action
to get the second set.

While the "Preliminary Riffle" has been explained using the left thumb it can also
be done using the right thumb and at times both together. There will be situations where
alternate use of thumbs, in either left or right portions of the pack, can be conveniently
useful.

Combination Methods
By using the technique of "Releasing" the required number of cards before the cut
plus the technique of the "Preliminary Riffle" you can obtain three sets of cards very
quickly and easily. An example of procedure follows assuming 4 Aces are on top.

Place hands over the deck as if to split for a shuffle; however, the right thumb at
back lifts up about half the deck at back only. The right first finger presses down firmly
on top of deck thus you will get a curve of the top portion rather than a straight left. Fig.
21 shows a side diagram of this action.

With the deck separated at back only, the right thumb quietly and quickly releases
four cards which fall against left thumb. The left thumb keeps these four cards separated
from the bottom portion of the deck. The enlarged Fig. 22 shows the action that happens
at back.

The right hand takes the upper half to the right in readiness for the shuffle. At this
stage left thumb still holds a break on its four cards, thus keeping them separate from rest
of left hand section of cards.

52
 Next do the action of the "Preliminary Riffle" which will result in you getting
another set of four cards as seen in the enlarged Fig. 23 of the left hand action.

Bring left thumb down towards rest of packet as in Fig. 18. At this stage you are
controlling two sets of four cards. In the Riffle Shuffle to follow you will maintain
control of these two sets and obtain or hold back a third set of four. This action is similar
to that shown in Fig. 19A except here three sets of four cards will be held back and four
Aces on the right hand section. This is seen in Fig. 24. A greatly exaggerated separation
of the sets and Aces.

Now release the first Ace - then a set of four cards. Release second Ace and
second set of' four cards. Release third Ace and last set of four cards. Last Ace is let fall
on top. The 4 Aces are set to fall into the first hand in a five handed game.

While the word "release" is used to clarify the action actually the so called release
more or less occurs on the first Ace and first set of four. After that the cards are sort of
lowered into each other and Aces worked into their proper position. For further details
see page 79 of original "Riffle Shuffle Systems." Again the stack here was used only as
an example in order to explain this "Combination Method". The following is another
"Combination Method" utilizing all three methods. 1. The "Release" (from center) 2. The
Step and Block 3. The "Preliminary Riffle." Again the four Aces should be on top of
deck.

Place hands around deck as if about to cut. Secretly lift up half the deck and
"Release" four cards as in Fig. 22, which are maintained by left thumb.

Right hand moves its card slightly to the right, for about the white border distance
of the under cards. Right thumb releases another four cards letting these fall flush onto
the first four thus forming a "block" of four cards. Right hand cuts its remaining cards to
the right. The situation is now as in Fig. 25 with left thumb holding a break under two
blocks of cards.

Left thumb now does the "Preliminary Riffle" to thus obtain another set of four
cards. Left thumb thus has control of actually 3 sets of 4 cards each at this stage as it
again moves down for the actual Riffle Shuffle. The Fig. 26 shows conditions just before
the Riffle Shuffle.

As the riffle shuffle is made the left thumb, which is maintaining two breaks,
obtains and holds back another set of four cards. Right thumb meantime has held back the
four Aces. The Fig. 27 shows the situation at this stage.

53
 Note that in Fig. 27 there are actually three separations maintained when you
consider the break between the two sets of four, the top 2 blocks and the rest of deck
below all this.

The right thumb lets the first Ace fall off onto deck followed by left thumb letting
first set of four cards fall onto this Ace. The second Ace is released by right thumb
followed by left and right hand lowering their cards so that the last 2 Aces are weaved so
that third Ace goes on top of the set of four while the 4th or top Ace goes under the step
or below the top block. The action is seen in the Fig. 28.

After the above the 4 Aces are set, in one shuffle, to fall into the 5th hand in a five
handed game.

The above comprises the methods for "Obtaining and Maintaining" Blocks or Sets
of cards and understanding them is essential if one is to continue with the rest of this
work.

The subject of Top and Bottom Block Transfers has already been covered;
therefore, we come to the next logical step or the Center Block Transfer. Basically its
purpose is to enable one to stack cards without having to worry about those cards already
stacked; however, its more subtle uses will be found in the effect "Power Poker #1". For
the present the application will be shown in connection with a four Ace Stack.

CENTER BLOCK TRANSFER

With four Aces on top the right hand cuts off top third to the right.

Riffle Shuffle holding back four cards on the left and four Aces on the right.

Release one Ace with right thumb. Now left thumb and second finger move their
four cards to the right and under the other 3 Aces as seen in Fig. 29.

Hands now telescope its cards but only up to the point of the four card block. In
other words as in the "Simplex Strip-Out Shuffle." The Fig. 30 shows situation with deck
in a Strip-Out condition.

Do a Strip-Out which will result in right hand portion now having 3 Aces on top
and one Ace stacked at fifth. Go into-another Riffle Shuffle and do not worry about that
one Ace that is already stacked. Merely concentrate on holding back four cards on left
hand section and 3 Aces on right hand section.

Release one Ace and now repeat the "Center Block Transfer" as per Fig. 29 and 30
except here only 2 Aces will be on top and the deck will be in a Strip-Out condition.

54
 Strip Out the cards. The right hand portion will have two Aces on top and the other
two Aces are stacked every fifth card.

Do a Riffle Shuffle again do not worry about what is already stacked. Concentrate
on holding back four cards on left hand section and two Aces on right hand portion.

Release one Ace and again repeat the Center Block Transfer as per Figs. 29 and 30
except now only one Ace will be on top and deck, as before, is in a Strip-Out condition.

Strip Out the cards. The right hand section has one Ace on top and the other three
Aces are every fifth card.

Riffle Shuffle and this time concentrate only on holding back four cards, on left
section. The 4 cards are now moved over to right as for a Top Block Transfer. The result
is the deck is in a Strip-Out condition with no Aces on top.

Strip Out, in a forward action, with right hand placing this portion underneath left
hand portion but in an end-jog to the right as in Fig. 31. The lower half has the Aces
stacked every 5th card.

With the left thumb lift up top half, near inner left corner, enabling the right hand
to carry it off to the right. Do the "Patented False Shuffle" with the cut. This will result in
deck being intact with Aces now every 5th card.

If desired when the deck is as in Fig. 31 the left hand cuts out a center section as
right thumb holds a break between what is the top and bottom. Also right hand portion
has a jog maintained as seen in Fig. 32.

Riffle Shuffle the center section into the lower portion. Telescope the cards into
each other but only up to the top jogged cards. The Fig. 33 shows deck in Strip-Out
condition with original top block in line with left hand section.

All that remains is for right hand to Strip-Out the side-jogged section and cut it to
top. The Aces are now every 5th card and if deck has been in any other order besides that
order has been maintained.

The next step, from a Center Block Transfer, is -

55
 THE DOUBLE BLOCK TRANSFER
Here is where you will be making use of the technique of "Obtaining and
Maintaining" blocks or sets of cards. Once more let us use the tireless four Aces for the
example.

Four Aces on top. Cut off top the third to the right. With left thumb do the
"Preliminary Riffle" to obtain a break on four cards. Lower left thumb but keep break.
See Fig. 17 and 18 for the action.

Riffle Shuffle obtaining another four cards which are held back in left hand
section. Right hand section of course holds back four Aces. See Figs 19A and 19B.

At this point release only one Ace. The second Ace is now weaved into between
the two sets or blocks as the cards are lowered. The left thumb still has control of the two
sets of four cards each. Fig. 34 shows conditions.

The left thumb and left second finger, which really have control of the two sets or
blocks, move the two blocks towards the right as in the Fig. 35

The 2 blocks are moved to right for about a half inch. The cards are now
telescoped into each other but only up to the two forward blocks. The pack is now in a
Simplex Strip-Out condition as in Fig. 36.

Do a Strip-Out as you split deck for another shuffle. The portion on the right has
two Aces stacked every 5th card and two Aces still on top.

With left thumb do the "Preliminary Riffle" to obtain your first set of four cards.
As you go into a Riffle Shuffle the second set of four is obtained and held. The right
thumb meantime has held back two Aces.

Right thumb releases one Ace. The last or top Ace is weaved into between the two
blocks held by left thumb. This situation is identical to that already shown in Fig. 35
except there aren't any Aces on top.

Repeat the moving, to the right, of the two blocks, as already shown in Fig. 35,
resulting in deck being in a Simplex Strip-Out condition. The four Aces are now stacked
and deck is in Strip-Out condition as in Fig. 37.

In a forward cutting action the right hand Strips Out its cards and places them
under the packet in left hand but in an end-jog position as in Fig. 31. Right hand remains
around its end of deck in order to hide this end-jog.

56
 Right hand, again in a forward cutting action, takes all the cards except for half of
the end-jogged cards which are retained by left fingers and thumb. The action is seen in
Fig. 38.

Right hand again places its cards to under the small packet held by left hand. This
small packet goes flush on top of deck. Situation after this cut, is as in Fig. 39.

Immediately the right hand pulls out the remaining jogged cards as in Fig. 40.

Right hand places its cards on top. The cutting sequence, which should be done in
a One-Two rhythm, is complete and not only is the Aces stacked every 5th card from the
top but any other arrangement you may have had is kept due to the Strip-Out Shuffle. The
Aces have apparently been stacked in Two Shuffles and use of this premise is further
shown in "Power Poker #2".

It of course is possible to use a "Three Block Transfer" and even a "Four Block
Transfer". All that you need to do is use the "Obtaining and Maintaining" methods to
obtain and maintain the required blocks which are then transferred to the opposite section
with the pack then being set-up for a Strip-Out. Follow by the Strip-Out cut to bottom
with an end-jog, as per Fig. 31, followed by the cut as per Figures 38-39 and 40 to bring
the stack to top and retain order of rest of deck. While most of the Block Transfer Action
has been described as moving the blocks with left hand to the right there are times when
the block transfer from right to left is of use to a right hand person. Naturally the Block
Transfers can be made to either portion and one will work according to what seems
easiest or most natural for him.

BLOCK TRANSPOSITIONS
This is most useful when you want to transpose some cards with other cards yet
retain the rest of deck in order. Suppose you have say four Aces on top and four Kings
under that you wish to get the four Kings on top of the four Aces yet retain the order of
the deck.

Begin by doing the "Two Thumbs Upward Ruffle" as explained on page 88-89 of
original "Riffle Shuffle Systems" step 4 and figures 140 and 141.

Continue the two thumbs upward riffle until you have come to hold only the top
four cards. At this point both thumbs move down but a break is held at back end below
the top four cards.

57
 Both hands are still around deck. The left thumb now maintains the break on the
four cards while right hand cuts out half the cards from under the top four Aces as in Fig.
41.

Riffle Shuffle holding back the four top cards of right hand section as well as
retaining the top four cards in left hand section as in Fig. 42.

A small block or a few cards from right hand section should fall last or onto left
hand section as each hand retains its four cards. See Fig. 42 to see the block referred to
and which will make the next move easier.

The next move is for left hand to move its four Aces to the right and under the four
Kings. The small block of cards that is on top or over left-hand section will keep other
cards, from left hand section, from moving with the transferred block. The Fig. 43 chows
the action at this stage.

Telescope the packets into each other only as far as the forward Aces. This results
in deck being in Simplex-Strip-Out condition as in Fig. 44.

In a forward cutting action right hand strips-out its cards and places them under the
cards in left hand but in an end-jog position as in Fig. 31. '

From here do the cutting action as depicted by Figures 38-39 and 40, to bring deck
back to original order and the transposed blocks of Kings and Aces back to top.

It is possible to transpose a card or cards in one riffle shuffle and retain original
order of rest of deck thru the use of the Block Transfer and Zarrow Shuffle as follows:

Assume you have the four Kings atop 4 Aces, but wish to transpose the positions
of the Kings and Aces yet retain the order of rest of deck.

Get a break under the top 4 cards - Kings - then cut out center section as in the
original Zarrow shuffle. This gives you the 4 Aces on top of right hand packet, and the 4
Kings on top of left hand packet with a break under them. You may prefer to release the
break after the initial cut, as per Fig. 45 which shows the situation.

Riffle Shuffle the two halves into each other so that after the shuffle the 4 Aces
will fall onto the Kings. At the same time the Kings are jogged forward in preparation for
the Zarrow Shuffle. This situation is shown in Fig. 46 just before the secret unlacing of
the corners under cover of the jogged block of Kings.

Now secretly unlace the shuffled corners and move the right hand portion in under
the block of Kings as in Fig. 47

58
 The Kings and Aces are now transposed and the rest of the deck still remains in
the original order in just one shuffle.

In a stacked deck it is possible to bring a card to the top from any position, still
retaining the rest of the cards in the original order, and with only one shuffle. A card fifth
from top can be thus brought to the top, without disturbing the rest of the cards. Although
these same results can be obtained by using a Strip-Out and Block Transfer this technique
requires two shuffles plus the Strip-Out cut. There are however, certain advantages to the
use of the Block Transfer with the Strip-Out especially when dealing with a card that may
be quite far down in the deck. This will be dealt with further on in this chapter.

This next Block Transposition makes it possible to transpose the top and bottom
card or cards; however, it does not retain the pack in order but the underlying mechanics
of what I call the "Incomplete Block Transfer" is applicable to other situations. The
Incomplete Block Transfer briefly is as follows:

Undercut half the deck to the right. Riffle Shuffle holding back four cards on the
left hand section.

Left fingers move the four top cards of its section forward as in Fig. 48.

Telescope the cards for only a part of the way so that the top block of four cards
will actually be in center of the two telescoped halves as shown in Fig. 49 with rest of
deck in a Strip-Out condition.

When you do the Strip-Out the top block, which is in center of the interwoven
halves, can be taken with either the left hand or right hand section. The Fig. 50 shows
how the center block remains out-jogged when taken by right hand.

By placing right hand portion under the left hand section, as in Fig. 51, then
merely taking the injogged portion to top, as in Fig. 52, the top block will have been
transferred to the bottom.

To effect a Top and Bottom Block Transposition begin by under-cutting bottom

portion to the right. Assume the bottom cards, in right hand section, are the Kings and the
top cards, in left hand section, are the Aces.

Start the shuffle by first releasing the four Kings from bottom of right hand
portion. Onto this release a block of cards, from left hand section, onto the four bottom
Kings. Continue the shuffle retaining the top four Aces in left hand section. The situation,
at this stage, is as in Fig. 53

59
 Left fingers move top block to the right. The cards are telescoped only up to the
point as already shown in Fig. 49. The situation 1 now as in Fig. 54. Note the separation,
caused by the block over the bottom Kings.

Strip-out the cards carrying the center top block of Aces with right hand portion.
Fig. 55 shows the conditions. Note the break held on bottom Kings.

Bring right hand portion to under cards in left hand as in Fig. 56. Break on bottom
Kings is held by right thumb pressing against them.

Cut the in-jogged section to top thus leaving Aces at bottom as in Fig. 57.

With right hand cut off, up to the break, to the right for a shuffle as in Fig. 58.

All that remains is to riffle shuffle the cards keeping the top and bottom cards, of
left hand section, as you complete the shuffle.

Instead of doing a regular riffle shuffle do the Zarrow Shuffle, holding the top four
Kings of left hand section as a block under cover of which the unlacing is done. The deck
is then squared resulting in the Fig. 59.

This results in the portion of deck, between the Kings and Aces, remaining in its
original set-up except that it has been actually given a straight cut.

It is a fairly simple procedure to place a card that is on top into any position of the
pack. It is also fairly simple to bring say, a card that is fifth from the top to the top.
However, if the card from the top is to be placed at a fairly large number then short of
estimation it becomes a problem to place it exactly and accurately. This problem is more
or less solved not only concerning the placing of a card into deck but also getting it from
a deep down position to top of deck, Add to this the fact that the deck itself can actually
be kept in order during the process and you have the resulting effect titled "Any Four-
Repeat." For the present I will deal with the actual mechanics of placing the card.

PLACEMENT PROCESS
Assume you wish to place the top card into the 12th position from top of deck and
also retain the order of the pack.

Undercut halt the pack to the right in readiness for a riffle shuffle.

Riffle shuffle holding back four cards on left hand section and a fairly large block
on right hand section as in Fig. 60.

60
 Telescope the cards into each other only as far as seen in Fig. 61 Here the right end
is in a side-jog and deck is in Strip-Out condition Also most important is the fact that
there is a large space, at left end of deck, between the top four cards and rest of cards in
this section. See Fig. 61.

The left thumb is placed against this space and now as right hand strips its cards
out again the left thumb now has a break between these top four cards and rest of the left
hand section. This is seen en Fly 62.

Now follow closely. Riffle Shuffle again maintaining the left thumb break on its
four cards and at the same time hold back an additional four cards. The right thumb
meantime has held back a large block again. The Fig. 63 shows the situation.

Telescope the cards into each other for only up to the distance shown in Fig. 64.
Now you have eight cards above the large block. Also, the same space is between the top
8 cards belonging to left hand section and those below in same section.

Right hand again strips out its section and left thumb of course maintains the
break, at the space, this time on eight cards. The situation is similar to Fig. 62 except left
thumb is now holding a break on eight cards.

Riffle shuffle maintaining the break with left thumb and at same time hold back an
additional four cards. Right hand of course holds back a large block of cards. The
situation is similar to that shown in Fig. 63 except the upper section, in left hand, has
eight cards in it and the under section has four cards as shown.

Once more telescope the cards into each other but letting right hand section stay
slightly injogged thus deck is in Strip-Out condition. The state of affairs is similar to that
shown in Fig. 64 except that there are now 12 cards above the space, created by the large
block from right hand section.

The next series of cuts will place the top cards into 12th position from the top and
still retain the order of rest of deck

Start by stripping out the right hand section which is placed for ward to table. The
l it thumb of course has obtained a break on the 12 cards. As the first cut or Strip-Out is
made the left thumb has held the break as seen in Fig. 65

Right hand comes back towards the left hand for the next cut which is a top card
Slip Cut up to the break. In other words the right fingers grasp those cards below the
break to undercut them. At the same time the right first finger tip presses on top card so

61
that it is taken with the undercut section. This is seen in Fig. 66 - an end view of the
action.

The Slip Cut leaves eleven cards in left hand. The top card is now top card or the
tabled portion as seen in Fig. 67.

The pack itself is still in its original order with exception of the top card which is
now 12th from the top. To bring a card further down into the pack, like say at 41 from the
top, you must think of it as so many cards from the bottom.

Taking the example of getting a card to 41 from the top you think of it as 12th
from the bottom. All you need to do 1a repeat the exact process as already detailed for the
12th from top. (See Figures 60-64 inclusive plus the accompanying text.)

You are now in the exact position as depicted by Fig. 64. This time during the
cutting process you proceed by stripping out the jogged section with right hand and place
this on top of left hand portion. Now undercut the cards below the break to the top. The
top card is now 12th from the bottom or 41 from the top. The rest of deck is still in its
original order; however, the deck has been cut.

Using the above principles makes possible the following effect, if you completely
understand the "Placement Process" then brief description of this should suffice.

ANY FOUR - REPEAT

Effect - Spectator calls for any four of a kind. The cardician, during shuffles and
cuts, locates these one at a time. The effect can be repeated as often as desired.

This is based on glimpsing or peeking plus the Holding Back of a required number
of cards. As you do the effect you will quickly realize why both ideas are essential.

The pack itself is set-up from Ace to King in C-H-S-D order. Therefore, the top
Ace to King are Clubs followed by Hearts-Spades and Diamonds arranged Ace to King.

Precede the whole with a false shuffle of any type or a combination of type B.
Now ask the spectator to name any four of a kind. Assume he names the "Four Tens."

As you can see that in order to get to a Ten spot you would have to get two blocks,
four the first time and five the second time for a total of nine cards. A much simpler
process is this: Undercut the cards to the right with right hand. Now in shuffling do it so
that you can see the cards fly by in the left hand section. All you do is block off at the
first card you spot that is nearest to the 10. In this case the Ten of Clubs.

62
 Suppose you spot a 7C and you quickly block off with the cards in right hand. The
situation, after telescoping the cards, is similar to Fig. 64 except there will be seven cards
above the large block.

Now when you strip-out you hold the break, in left hand section, with left thumb
on the seven cards. In order to block off and get to the 10C all you need to do is to hold
back an additional 2 cards and these need not be glimpsed as now you are sure the left
hand is holding back nine cards, the original 7 plus the additional 2.

Set-up for a Strip-Out as already shown in Fig. 64 except here there will be nine
cards above the space. The large block is marking off the 10C.

Strip-Out the right hand section and place it on top. With right hand undercut cards
to the break, which of course was held by left thumb, and place these on top.

The 10C can now be turned up on top. Toss it face up to table.

The next Ten Spot is a Heart. It is actually 14th from the top because of the extra
three club cards J-Q-K- over the Heart suit. You can readily see that getting to block off,
up to the 14th card, by four or fives would involve too much shuffling. Therefore again
proceed as before.

Undercut half the deck to the right. Now as you riffle shuffle do it so you can
again see the cards fly by in left hand section. Once more spot a card, in the Heart suit, as
close to the 10H as possible. Let's assume this time you managed to block off at a 5H
This means that on the next shuffle you hold back four cards thus resulting in the
blocking off of the required cards and marking off the actual 10H. All that you need to do
is repeat the cutting - Strip-Out with right hand and place on top - Undercut to the break
maintained and place this on top. The 10H can now be turned face up on top Toss face up
to table.

To locate the next two Tens the process described is merely repeated. After the last
Ten spot, the Ten of Diamonds, is located the JD-QD-KD will be on top. In another
shuffle get these three cards to the bottom.

The deck is now back in order except the Ten Spots of each suit will be missing
due to having been located.

You can now ask for the spectator to call any other four of a kind. No matter what
value he names you merely repeat the same action for each as you already did with the
four Tens.

63
 Remember to get the deck back into C-H-S-D order after the last card, of chosen
value, in turned up. The pack is again as before and the effect can be repeated; however,
twice should be proof enough that you can get any four of a kind.

This next effect uses the combined ideas of a Block Transfer plus the Placement
Process to result in not only a Cull of a Called or named value but also a Stack, to the
bottom, of the named value.

CALL AND STOCK

Effect - Spectator calls any value. The Cardician stacks four of that value into
practically any number of hands.

This uses the stacked deck, of Ace to King, in C-H-S-D order as in the effect "Any
Four-Repeat"

The bottom card of deck is crimped. Assume the spectator called for the Three
Spots and wishes them to come to the dealer in a Six Handed game.

With both thumbs ruffle deck upwards getting a break, with left thumb under the
top three cards or under the 3C.

With right hand cut out the center section or those cards just below the 3C in
readiness for the Zarrow Shuffles.

Remember that the 3C is third from top in left hand section. It must be brought 6th
from the top. This you do by riffle shuffling letting the last 3 cards, from right hand
section, fall onto the 3 cards in left hand section. At same time each block of three cards
is moved inward in readiness for a Block Transposition with a Zarrow Shuffle as in Figs.
46 and 45. This leaves deck in order and the 3C is 6th, from the top.

Undercut half the deck, with right hand, to the right. Riffle Shuffle holding back 6
cards on left section, or step the riffle when you spot the 3C. The right hand has
meantime held back its block. This is similar to Fig. 60 except 6 cards are being held
back in left hand portion.

Telescope the cards setting up for a Strip-Out as in Fig. 61 except 6 cards are
blocked off. The 3C is the 6th card. Left thumb obtains the break at the space.

Right hand strips out its section and places this portion to top. Left thumb has of
course maintained the break below the original 6 cards. Right hand now undercuts to the
break placing the cards to top. The 3C is now 6th card from the crimped card. 3-C is of
course bottom card at this stage.

64
 Here you must start to use your head for a little simple mathematics. Remember
you used up six club cards in order to set the 3C. This means a 7C is the top card of deck.

The 7C to KC inclusive is a total of seven cards. The next suit is Hearts. The 3H is
the third card in that suit. Thus three (Heart) plus seven (Clubs) is a total of Ten cards.
The 3H you now know is the 10th card from the top.

You are going to stack the cards to every 6th position; therefore it is obvious you
must first dispose of four of the top cards in order that the 3H is in 6th position. Begin by
under-cutting the pack to the right. Riffle Shuffle holding back the top 4 cards of left
hand section. Note undercut less than 17 cards. This is important later.

Telescope the cards into each other as left fingers move its four cards to the right
thus transferring the block onto the right hand section. The pack is now in Simplex-Strip
Out position as in Fig. 68

Strip-out the cards splitting for another shuffle. The situation is now as in Fig. 69
with 3H 6th from top in left section and 3C on bottom or right section with a crimp above
6 cards.

As you riffle shuffle this time use the glimpse to spot the 3H and block it off with
cards from right hand section. Telescope the cards into each other to the position as
already shown in Fig. 61 except here you will have 6 cards marked off' by the large block
and the space on left. Deck is in a Strip-Out condition.

Right thumb at same time maintains the break on the 6 top cards of left section.
This section is similar to Fig. 62 except here a card break in held on left section.

Right hand places its cards on ton of cards in left hand. Right hand next undercuts
to the break and places these cards to the top. There are now 12 cards below the crimp -
the 3C and 3H are stacked every 6th card from the crimp.

The next card to locate is the 3S and it is now 13th from the top due to the fact that
you got rid of three of the Hearts, i.e. up to the 3H) thus leaving Ten Heart cards above
the 3S or three cards in spade.

18. With the 3S in the 13th position you must first get rid of 7 cards, via the Block
Transfer, Begin by riffling deck upwards with both thumbs in order to get a break on the
top 11 cards. Maintain a break on these 4 cards with left thumb.

19, Undercut the deck with right hand this time being sure that you undercut only
about 15 cards more or less. Surely less than 23 in order not to interfere with the 3D later.

65
 Riffle Shuffle holding back an additional 3 cards on left section. Thus, you will be
holding back a total of 7 cards. Situation 19 similar to Fig. 63 except here you are holding
back sets of 4 and 3 cards.

Telescope the cards into each other as you do the Double Block Transfer to move
the sets of 4 and 3 from left section onto right section. The deck is in Strip-Out condition
similar to Fig. 68 except 7 cards have been moved over in this case.

Strip-Out in readiness for another riffle shuffle. At this stage the right hand section
has its 3H 3C stacked every 6th card from the crimped card. The 3S is 6th from top in left
section.

Riffle Shuffle glimpsing 3S and Blocking it off. Telescope the cards into each
other as you set up for the Strip-Out. Situation is again similar to Fig. 61 except 6 cards
are marked off by the large block with the space on left end.

As right hand strips out its portion the left thumb maintains a break below the 6
cards to top or cards in left hand, Right hand undercuts to the break and places these
cards on top. -

At this stage you have the 3C-3H-3S stacked every 6th card from the crimp, The
last card, 3D, is now also 13th from the top providing that you have taken the precaution
to undercut less than 15 cards as pointed out in Steps 11 and 19.

Here you merely repeat the same actions as outlined in Steps 19 to 25 inclusive.
Briefly you first get a break under top 4 cards using the two thumbs in an upward ruffle.
Undercut to above the crimp, right maintaining break on left hand top 4 cards. Riffle
Shuffle getting an additional 3 cards with left thumb, on left section, for a total of 7 cards.
Do a Block Transfer of these 7 cards at same time setting up for a Strip-Out, Strip-Out
and riffle shuffle again this tame glimpsing 3D and blocking it off. Situation similar to
Fig. 64 except you have blocked off six cards with a space on the left. Strip-Out, with
right hand, placing this portion to top. Left thumb of course maintains break on the 6
cards during this. Undercut to break placing this portion to top.

Now cut deck to bring crimped card to bottom. The four threes are now set to fall
to the dealer in a 6 handed game.

Do not show the other hands as these may contain hands that beat the four threes,
such as four Aces in the 5th hand. However, there isn't any reason why, in assembling the
hands, you can't place these cards or highest hand on top. Now you can do a regular riffle
shuffle stack this time stacking another four cards. At any rate you can, with a little more

66
thought, extend the situation as much as you may wish. The ideas in "Power Poker #2"
can be applied here.

It the number of hands called is higher than the value of the card then you must
proceed as outlined in Steps 3-4-5 in order to set the first card at proper number from the
top. It the number of hands called is less than the values of the card then you merely go
right into the Block Transfer to lose the required number of cards in order to bring first
card to proper position. Also remember to undercut properly. In other words if a Ten was
called as the value then you must be sure to undercut less than 10 cards on the first
shuffle. -In other words you must not have any cards loaded onto the 10D or it will not
arrive in 13th position in the final phase of the shuffle. I realize this first undercut, of
such a small packet, is not quite normal but you will get by with it.

I shall now detail a method of stacking using the "Incomplete Block Transfer"
which can be done with the desired cards starting at top and ending stacked on the bottom
below a crimped card. It also uses a left and right Block Transfer.

LEFT AND RIGHT BLOCK TRANSFER

The four Aces on top of deck. Bottom card crimped at inner right corner as deck
lies lengthwise in front of operator. Do any preceding shuffles to retain this condition.
Assume the stack is to be for a five handed game.

With right hand cut off top half to right. Aces are on top of right hand section -
crimp is on bottom of left hand section.

Riffle Shuffle holding back four cards in left hand section only but being sure that
these four cards will be blocked off by a fairly large portion from right hand section.
Telescope the cards into each other but leaving a Strip-Out condition. The situation is
now as in

The left fingers and thumb now hold onto those cards below the space. Right hand
thus strips out its cards, in a forward action, at same time taking with it the block of 4 top
cards. The Fig. 71 shows the situation.

Note that the top block of 4 cards is jogged to the left. Right hand as in Fig. 72
where the jogged cards are now even with left hand section.

Immediately right hand takes only the cards still jogged to the right. The whole
action simulates a cut and an immediate split for another shuffle. You have added the top
four cards to below the crimped card.

67
 Riffle Shuffle again holding back four cards on left section but only one card, an
Ace, in right hand section. A block of cards should fall last, from right hand section, onto
those cards, in left section, just below the four cards being held back. In other words the
four cards, held back in left section, will be blocked off. The situation is as seen in Fig.
73.

Telescope the halves into each other at the same time moving the block of four
cards to the right and the one Ace, which should fall on top, to the left. You are actually
doing the actions of a left and right Block Transfer. The situation is as in Fig.74. The
Block Transfer movement is only for about a 1/4 inch.

Telescope the packets into each other until the Ace and four cards meet in center
of the top as in the Fig. 75. Note that deck is in Strip-Out condition but the jogs, on each
side of the top center packet of five cards, are only about a quarter of an inch or less.

Left fingers and thumb now hold onto those cards that are jogged on the left or
those below the space. Right hand strips out its portion plus the top five cards. This is
seen in the Fig. 76. Note that the top 5 cards are jogged over to the left.

Right hand, which stripped out its cards in a forward movement, places its cards to
under the cards in left hand so that the five jogged cards come flush with cards in left
hand. This is similar to Fig. 72 except you will be adding five more cards to below the
crimp.

Immediately split again for the shuffle as right hand takes only the cards that are
jogged to the right thus leaving the original top five cards under the left hand portion.

From here you simply repeat the required actions to bring the next set of five cards
to the bottom. Briefly you riffle shuffle holding back four cards on left and one Ace on
right. As already shown in Fig. 73. Move the four cards to the right and Ace to the left for
the Block Transfer as in Fig. 74. Set-up for a Strip-Out and have block of five in center as
seen in Fig. 75. Strip-Out with right hand as for a cut, taking top five cards as in Fig. 76.
Place right hand portion to bottom so top 5 jogged cards are flush with left hand portion
as in Fig. 72. With right hand take under jogged portion as you split for another shuffle.

Just before this 4th shuffle you will have two Aces on top of right hand portion.
Below the crimp you will have two Aces stacked every 5th card plus four cards already
below the second Ace. This is used to advantage in the last shuffle as follows:

Riffle Shuffle holding back four cards on left and one Ace on right. Do the left and
right Block Transfer letting Ace fall on top. Telescope the cards into each other in a
manner as already seen in Fig. 75. Next do the Strip-Out, carrying top five cards with
right section, then merely place to bottom of left hand portion as you openly square up.

68
 At this stage all four Aces are stacked every 5th card just below the crimp. The
crimp is about 12 cards from the top provided you cut in half pretty accurately on your let
shuffle. Actually if you cut perfect 26 then your crimp, after the stack, will end up 10th
from the top.

Cutting a small packet off is not quite above suspicion; therefore, right hand
undercuts about 20 cards or so to the top and squares. Now do a single cut to the crimp.
The Aces are now set to be dealt out into five hands with the dealer getting the Aces.

It is of interest to note that during this stack the deck is not truly shuffled. That is
to say that the top portion, cut off to the right, remains in its identical order except for the
Aces. This means if the top 25 cards were stacked, before placing the Aces on top, you
could use this to advantage after having shown the stacking of the Aces. Also the left
hand portion is not truly shuffled as four cards are merely being displaced from left hand
to in between the Aces. Use of this of course is shown in "Power Poker #1".

If you start with four cards already below the crimp you can then apparently set
the 4 Aces in just three shuffles. This is because on the third shuffle you of course are set
to stack two Aces.

On the last shuffle you can merely do a Block Transfer of just the four cards to in
between the two Aces and set-up for the Strip Out. This is shown in Fig. 77 with
positions of all cards

During the stacking of the Aces you do not have to worry about those already
stacked, due to the use of the Strip-Out. All concentration can be on those you are about
to stack.

Instead of the left and right block transfer, for the stack, you can make use of the
Space on the left end. In this case only the right hand moves its Ace over to the left to
create the situation of Fig. 78

As you can see if left fingers and thumb hold onto those cards below the space
then right hand will strip out its cards, plus the top five cards, to result en a situation
similar to Fig. 71. This is followed by the placing of right hand portion to under the left,
as in the Fig. 72, then splitting for another shuffle. The mechanics of the shuffle are the
same except the technique uses the "Space" to obtain the jog on the five cards to be
transferred to the bottom.

A very good technique is to use the Marlo Patented Shuffle method of transferring
the four cards from left hand section and still obtain the required jog, on the top five
cards, for the cut and transfer to bottom of left hand section. Briefly you riffle shuffle

69
holding back four cards in left section and one Ace in right hand portion. This is like the
Fig. 73. Next telescope the cards into each other but left fingers have moved its block
over in front of the left third finger. The Fig. 79 shows a top view of the angled block as
well as the finger position of both hands.

When the cards are all but telescoped for about a quarter inch the situation will be
as in Fig. 80 again top view, Finger positions have been omitted for clarity.

Right let finger now pushes over top Ace so it is now flush with the angled four
cards as seen in Fig. 81. Note that there is now a jog on the right end of deck, The Fig. 81
is a top view with finger positions omitted for clarity; however, their positions remain
basically the same.

With the 5 cards remaining angled and the rest controlled by left third finger and
left thumb the right hand strips out its section carrying the top 5 cards with it. The result
is now similar to that in Fig. 71. From here proceed by placing right hand portion under
left, as in Fig. 72, then immediately splitting for the next shuffle. The actual stack again
follows the mechanics already outlined en the very beginning - only the technique is
changed.

For those who may just wish to stack the cards, from top to bottom, without using
a Strip-Out shuttle then the following will be found quite effective as a demonstration. It
is based on Blocking Off plus a Double Cut.

BLOCK STACKING
Bottom card is secretly crimped. In removing the 4 Aces the crimp is easily
brought to 5th from the bottom. Toss Aces face up to table. Shuffle remainder of-deck
keeping crimp at 5th from bottom.

Place Aces on top. Cut top halt off to the right. Riffle Shuffle holding back 4 cards
on the left and one Ace on the right. A large block from right section is on top of left
section. The Fig. 73 is similar situation. The crimp and five cards should still be on
bottom

Telescope the cards into each other but set-up as for the regular Strip-Out as per
Fig. 82 a top view.

The right fingers hold right ends of deck firmly. Left thumb now moves top Ace
forward resulting in the situation pictured in the Fig. 83 still a top view. Note the step
exposed just under the top five cards.

70
 Left thumb presses down on the step and pushes inwards to result in obtaining a
break, with left thumb, under top 5 cards as in Fig. 84.

With break held the right hand undercuts half the deck to the top then immediately
undercuts again, this time to the break. This results in 3 Aces on top and one Ace stacked
5th from the crimp. There are four cards below the already stacked Ace.

Right hand cute off about 15 to 20 cards, from top, to the right. Riffle Shuffle
being sure to release the bottom cards or left-hand portion, past the crimp. This insures
that you will not inadvertently mix cards into those already stacked.

Once more hold back four cards on left hand portion and one Ace on right hand
portion as already seen in Fig. 73. Don't forget the block under the four cards from left
section as in Fig. 73.

Telescope the cards into each other and set-up for a Strip-Out as per Fig. 82.

Left thumb pushes over top Ace to position shown in Fig. 83. Right fingers hold
right end of cards firmly.

Left thumb presses down on the Step and obtains the break under the top five
cards as in Fig. 84.

Left thumb holds break as right hand undercuts 1/2 the deck to the top. Follow by
right hand undercutting to the break and squaring up.

At this stage two Aces are stacked every 5th card, from the crimp at the bottom.
There are already four additional cards below the second Ace. This now will make the
last shuffle stack two Aces. Two Aces are still on top.

Cut off about 20 cards or less, from top, with right hand to the right. Riffle Shuffle
being sure you do not weave any cards into those below the crimp in left hand section.
The crimp is easily seen as you start the shuffle so there should be no problem here.

Once more left thumb holds back four cards and right thumb holds back one Ace.
The block of cards, below the four cards of left portion, as seen in Fig. 7 will have the
other Ace. All you have to do is release the four cards, from left portion, onto the block
and let Ace from right hand fall last or on top. This time square up openly.

With right hand undercut about thirty cards or more to the top and square up. The
four Aces are now every 5th card below the crimp. Therefore, give deck one straight cut
to the crimp and complete the cut. The Aces are now set to fall to the dealer in a five
handed game.

71
 You can get the Aces to fall into any other hand by doing a preliminary shuffle
before placing the Aces actually on top. In other words you can state that you will stack
the Aces for a five handed Game but ask into which hand they want the Aces. Assume
they say the 4th hand. This means you would Get 3 cards below the crimp on the
preliminary shuffle. This preliminary shuffle can be identical to the method of stacking
each Ace. In other words you would block off 3 cards on top, set-up for the Strip Out, get
break on the step to hold 3 cards, Double Cut to bring the top 3 cards to bottom below the
crimp. Now place the Aces on top and proceed to stack as explained. When you cut to the
crimp the Aces will fall into the 4th hand, as requested, in a five handed game.

Using the above methods you can place a card into any position in the deck except
of course in this case the deck itself will be actually shuffled; therefore, do not confuse it
with the previous method of placing a card in which the pack is kept in order. An
example is given in -

CARD PLACEMENT
(Deck Shuffled)
Assume you wish to place the top card into the 13th position.

Cut top half to right, Riffle Shuffle holding back say four cards with left thumb„
Right hand lets a fair block of cards fall just before letting the four cards from left hand
fall last. Situation is as in Fig. 85 where the 4 cards in left section have been blocked off
with several cards from right section. Card to be placed is top card of this block.

Set-up for the Strip-Out which will bring you into the position as seen in Fig. 83
except of course nothing has to be moved here as the step is automatic.

Press down on the step obtaining the break with left thumb resulting in the
condition seen in Fig. 84 except no crimp is here involved.

Next right hand does a Center Cut of about half the deck from under the top four
cards as shown in the Fig. 86. Left thumb keeps break between top four cards and rest of
deck.

After you split for the shuffle you will be holding a break on top four cards of left
hand section. The card to be placed is top of right hand section.

72
 Riffle Shuffle, maintaining break, with left thumb, on the original four cards.
During the riffle shuffle the left thumb holds back an additional four cards to fall under
the now two sets Or 4 cards as seen in Fig. 87.

Telescope the cards into each other and set-up for the Strip-Out as per Fig. 83
except the step will now be under 8 cards. Left thumb obtains a break, under top 8 cards,
by pressing down on the Step and then moving in against the cards. Right hand now
center cuts the cards just below the 8 cards. This is similar to Fig. 86.

Riffle Shuffle as left thumb again maintains the break but this time on 8 cards.
During the riffle shuffle left thumb holds back an additional four cards. Right hand again
lets a block fall under these now 12 cards. Situation is like shown in Fig. 87 except top
block of left hand portion has 8 cards plus the four held back for a total of 12. The desired
card is now below these 12 cards or 13th as wanted.

If it is desired to bring the card further down into the deck then of course you
would set up for the Strip-Out and obtain a break below the 12 cards. Continue with the
Center Cut shuffle and so on.

The next method, while following the same basic principles, is much more flexible
in that the card can be easily placed to either a position from the top or the bottom;
however, it eliminates the center cut.

FLEXIBLE PLACEMENT
(Deck Shuffled)
Card to be "Placed" is on top. Assume you wish to bring it to 40th from the top.
First deduct 40 from 52 which give you 12 as your key number or how many cards from
the bottom. The cards must be placed in order to make it 40th from the top.

Begin by undercutting half the deck to the right. Riffle Shuffle keeping back four
cards with left thumb on left section 30 these fall last. Don't forget the blocking off of
these 4 cards with cards from' right hand section. Situation is as in Fig. 85 except the card
is on top of left section. -

Telescope the cards and set-up for a Strip-Out as per Fig. 83. Press down, with left
thumb, on the step and move in getting a break. The condition is now as in Fig. 84 but no
crimp involved.

This time undercut half the deck with right hand. (No center cut here.) The
situation is now as in Fig. 88

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 Repeat the riffle shuffle as left thumb holds break and obtains an additional four
cards as already seen in Fig. 87 but the card to be placed is always on top of left hand
portion.

Once more Set-up for the Strip-Out, and get your break. This time the break will
be under 8 cards. Right hand undercuts halt the deck as before, Fig. 88, but left thumb
holds break below the 8 cards.

Riffle Shuffle with left thumb maintaining break on the 8 cards. holding back an
additional four cards. Repeat the Setting up for a Strip-Out and getting a break this time
under 12 cards.

With a break held under top 12 cards all you need to do is a cut or Double cut to
the break, (These cuts are done on table, ala Erdnase which will bring the card to 12th
from the bottom or 40th from the top, however, you can also place it 12th from the top.
Merely undercut, with right hand, to the break at same time doing a Top Card Slip Cut.
Conversely placing the card 12th from the top brings it also 41st from bottom.

As you can see with a little elementary arithmetic you can quickly calculate the
shuffle to bring the card to any position in the deck

Using the system of Blocking Off, Setting up for a Strip-Out and holding the break
the following stack will be found of interest.

CENTER STACKING
As the heading implies desired cards are stacked while apparently being in center
of deck.

One Ace is on top of deck. Three Aces are on bottom of deck. Undercut about a
dozen cards to top and hold break with left thumb. The Fig. 89 shows conditions.

Undercut about 16 or more cards to the right. Left hand retains its original break as
both hands start to riffle shuffle.

Bight thumb holds back four cards in its section before left thumb reaches the
break in left section. The Fig. 90 shows the conditions.

Left thumb releases the cards up to the break and right thumb sort of lays its four
cards onto the first Ace. The situation is as in Fig. 91.

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 The top block, of left hand portion is of course also released now as pointed out in
Fig. 91. Telescope the cards into each other and set-up for a Strip-Out condition as per
Fig. 83.

Obtain the break, with left thumb, by pressing down on the step and moving thumb
inwards as you square up the deck. The situation is again a break held an in Fig. 89.

With right thumb pull upwards slightly on the cards above the break in order to
enable an Ace to slip off right thumb and onto the cards below the break. The situation
will still be as in Fig. 89 except there will now be only two Aces above the break and one
Ace on - top of those cards below the break. One Ace is already stacked. Undercut again,
about 16 cards or more, with right hand.

Repeat the riffle shuffle holding back the cards as required and shown in Fig. 90
and then getting the second Ace stacked as in Fig. 91. Once more in squaring up you set
up for the Strip-Out as in Fig. 83. In the next squaring action you once more obtain the
break, with left thumb, as in Fig. 89.

Once more right thumb releases an Ace, from the upper portion, onto the lower
portion or below the break. Undercut about 16 cards or so and riffle shuffle being sure to
riffle off the 16 cards and hold back four long before any of these cards could possibly be
weaved into the cards or Aces already stacked. Situation would be more like the Fig. 92
where the bottom portions of each are weaved leaving stacked portion untouched.

Telescope the halves into each other and set-up for the Strip-Out as in Fig. 83.
Square up and get left thumb break, as before, at inner left side as in Fig. 89 except you
now have only one Ace left in upper portion above the break. Right thumb releases this
Ace to lower portion. Undercut about 16 cards and once more riffle shuffle being sure
you do not riffle into cards already stacked. Hold back four cards again with right thumb
letting these fall onto the last Ace. Situation is similar to Fig. 92 except 4 Aces are now
stacked.

Telescope the cards into each other setting up for the Strip-Out as in Fig. 83.
Obtain a break, at the step, resulting again in a condition as in Fig. 89 except all you need
to do is a Tabled Double Cut to the break. Cards are now set to deal a five handed game
with dealer getting the four Aces.

THE DOUBLE STACK

Here is a system for stacking two hands. One is the dealers or winning hand the
other is the so called "Sucker" hand. This sucker hand is also stacked to fall into any
position regardless of how many players may be theoretically involved.

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 Assume you wish to use the four Kings and the four Aces. The Kings and Aces are
on top or deck with the Kings uppermost. Although it does not make any difference as to
whether the Aces or Kings are top most cards for this example, the Kings will be
uppermost.

With the Two Thumbs upward Ruffle' get a break under the top four Kings. Do a
Center Cut, from under the top four Kings, with right hand, Both halves are on table and
no breaks held, Kings are on top of left portion Aces are on top of right section, This
situation can of course be accomplished with a Block Transfer Shuffle if so desired;
however, the above cuts down one shuffle. -

Riffle Shuffle holding back four cards on left section and four cards on right
section. All you do here is alternate the Aces and Kings so--that the Aces become second-
4th-6th and 8th cards while Kings are at 1-3-5-7 or above each Ace Square up after
shuffle

At this stage if you were to deal out two hands the Kings would go to your
opponent and you would get the Aces This means that at present there are already two
hands in play. This also means that if you decided on a five handed game you would need
only three cards over each pair in order for Aces to go to 5th hand and Kings into 4th
hand. Therefore the number 2, hands already in play before the actual stack are used to
deduct from the actual number of hands called.

Suppose someone calls for a 7 handed game. Two from Seven is Five or your key
number. If you were to let five cards fall onto each pair Ace & King, then obviously you
would get the Aces and 6th player would get the Kings. However, let us say that the call
is for the 4th player to get the Kings with you still getting the Aces? In this case all you
need to ask is "How many cards over the King would I have to place in order to make the
King 4th?" The answer is 3. That now is used to quickly determine how many cards will
be left over from your key number. Your Key number is 5. Three (3) is the cards to be
used up to get a King into 4th position. Three (3) from five (5) leaves two (2) cards over.
These over cards are what will be placed onto the Ace to make them still come out 7th. In
reality what you will be doing is stacking the Kings and Aces into any position using the
Key number of cards in the proper manner to arrive at the pre-determined conclusion.

What follows now are the mechanics of the Double Stack. To this any
mathematical calculations can be applied after being arrived at as in the example above.
To make all as clear as possible the 7 hand game, with Kings in 4th hand and Aces in 7th
hand, will be dissected.

Remember the Kings and Aces are already alternated as per Step 2 and 3. With
both thumbs ruffle the cards upwards getting a break under the top four cards. This break
is taken over by right thumb.

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 Right thumb now lifts up, at back, about half the deck and then releases 3 cards
which are in turn caught and held in place by left thumb. Thus the conditions are as in
Fig. 93.

The 3 cards released will be of course loaded onto a King. You need another 2
cards to be placed over an Ace, Split deck holding the breaks on each section. -

Riffle Shuffle maintaining both breaks. During the shuffle hold back an additional
two cards in left hand portion and an additional four cards in right hand portion. This is
seen in Fig. 94.

Release one card from the right hand portion. This is an Ace. Onto this release the
two cards from left hand. Next release one card from right hand portion. This is a King.
Onto this release the 3 cards from left hand. Let the remaining 6 cards, the alternated
Aces and Kings, fall on top. Square up. You have now stacked the first King and Ace into
4th and 7th positions respectively.

Once more do a Two Thumbs Upward Ruffle to get a break under top 4 cards.
Repeat the release of the three cards and holding of breaks to result in the same
conditions as already seen in Fig. 93.

Split for a Riffle Shuffle as you maintain both breaks. During the riffle shuffle you
hold back an additional 2 cards en left hand section and an additional 2 cards in right
hand portion, Results are similar to Fig. 94 except here only two additional cards will be
held in right hand portion. Also a fairly large block of cards must be released preceding
the holding back of 2 cards by left thumb. This large block contains at least 7 cards or
more and is the first stacked Ace and King.

It you have taken the above precaution of releasing the large block, as per Fig. 95,
then you can again square up. Otherwise you will have to go into a Double Block
Transfer with a Set-Up for a Strip Out. This is used in the next shuffle but for the present
assume you now have two Aces and two Kings stacked at 4th and 7th positions.

This time the right thumb lifts up about half the deck at back and does only the
release of 3 cards which are held by left thumb as right hand cuts off top portion to right
for the shuffle.

Riffle Shuffle and concentrate solely on getting a break on an additional 2 cards in

left section and four cards in right section. This is like Fig. 94 except only four cards, in
right section, are held back.

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 17, Release one card, an Ace, from right hand followed by moving the two sets of
cards downward so that two cards will come onto the Ace. Now right hand releases one
card, the King, 80 it falls between the two sets of cards. That is the King falls onto the 2
cards in left section and the 3 cards will be automatically above the King. These actions
are designed so that left thumb and left second finger still has hold of the two sets of
cards, and is able to move them to the right in a Double Block Transfer as in the Fig. 96.
The last two cards, from right hand portion are let fall on top of all.

Set-up for a Strip-Out using either the Patented Shuffle - Simplex Shuffle. The
Fig. 97 shows deck in a Simplex-Strip-Out condition

Strip Out for the final shuffle At this point you have two more cards, King and
Ace, on top to stack. The others are-all stacked at present.

With left thumb do the "Preliminary Riffle" to obtain and maintain a break on
three cards. Riffle Shuffle holding back an additional two cards on left section and only
two cards on right portion. This is shown in Fig. 98.

Right thumb releases one card, the Ace. Now left hand moves its two sets of cards
downwards and right hand sort of loads its last card, the King, into between the set of 3
and 2. At same time left hand does the Double Block Transfer as already shown in Fig.
96.

Telescope the cards into each other at same time setting up for your favorite Strip-
Out technique or the Simplex-Strip-Out as in Fig. 97.

With right hand Strip-Out the cards placing them to bottom in a jogged position.
See Fig. 31). Right hand cuts oft all but half of the jogged cards As in Fig. 38) and places
these to bottom of cards held in left hand. (See Fig. 39) Right hand immediately takes rest
of jogged cards and places them to top of deck. (See Fig. 40). This brings stock back to
top. The deck is ready to deal into 7 hands with 7th hand getting the Aces and 4th hand
getting the Kings.

It is also possible to split up the four Kings so that two of them will fall say into
the 4th hand and the other two into any other hand. All you will have to do is work with
two sets of formulas. The let set of two would use the 3 cards and 2 cards blocks or sets
done twice. The next set of two, if you wish the two Kings to fall in say the second hand,
would use 1 card and 4 cards blocks or sets. On the first two rounds the first set of Kings
would fall into the second hand and on the next two rounds the other pair of kings would
fall into the second hand. The four Aces of course would all be in the 7th hand. It is
assumed that the 7 hands were used only as an example and that the formula can be
applied to any number of hands.

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 THE TRIPLE CARD STACK
This makes it possible to set three pairs of cards so that two pair will fall into any
hand desired while the highest pair comes to the dealer. It requires only two shuffles for
any number of hands from three to Ten; however, if the hands are not completed, five
cards per hand, then you can comfortably stack up to eighteen and have the pairs fall into
6th-12th and 18th places. For the example a 9 Handed dame is used with the pair falling
into third-6th and 9th places or hands; although, it must be understood that the so called
"Sucker" pairs can be made to come out in any of the first eight hands assuming of course
the 9th as being yours, The calculation here would be as already outlined in the "Double
Stack". In the case of 9 hands your key number would be 6 as 3 pairs already constitute
three of the nine hands. The breaking up of the key number into three numbers gives you
the clue as to how many cards have to go where in order to make the first two pair fall
anywhere among the first 8 hands and your pair into the ninth hand. For example you
wish to place the first pair into second hand - second pair into 5th hand and of course
your pair into 9th hand. As you can see you would use up one card to place it onto first
card - two cards onto first card of second pair and the remaining three cards onto first
card of your pair. To make things as easy as possible to understand the mechanics and the
mathematics of the Triple Card Stack it will be outlined below.

On top of deck you have, from top down, any J-Q-K followed by another J-Q-K of
any suit. Precede the stack with a false shuffle and cut, and then announce the stack.

The stack will be made so that the Jacks will go to third hand, the Queens to 6th
hand and Kings to 9th hand.

With both thumbs do an upward ruffle holding back top 3 cards and obtaining a
break below these with right thumb.

Still holding break the right thumb lifts up about half deck at back and releases
two cards which are caught by left thumb. Right hand moves its cards slightly to the right
and releases another two cards letting these fall onto the first two and under which the left
thumb is holding a break. The Fig. 99 shows the condition of deck after right hand has
split the-cards for a shuffle which of course followed the release of the last two cards.

In the Fig. 99 the so called 'break' in each half is for the length of the cards. Riffle
Shuffle maintaining the break in each half. In left section hold back an additional two
cards. In right hand portion hold back an additional three cards. This is the other J-Q-K
set. The Fig. 100 shows the situation here.

Right thumb releases one card, King, and then left thumb lets two cards fall onto
it. Right thumb releases the Queen, one card. Now both hands move downwards and the

79
third card, the Jack, is moved or weaved under the step between the last two sets of two
cards. The J-Q-K from right hand section goes back to top as seen in Fig. 101.

Telescope the halves into each other and square up the deck. The first set of J-Q-K
is stacked. To stack the next J-Q-K start by getting your two sets of two cards, in left
hand portion, as in Fig. 99 except here you do not need the three card break in the right
hand section.

As you riffle shuffle do not worry about the cards you have already stacked as you
will make use of a "Triple Block Transfer." At any rate the left hand must hold back an
additional two cards while right hand holds back the top three cards. The result is similar
to that in Fig. 100 except there will be no other cards above the 3 separated J-Q-K.

This time, in order to enable you to do the Triple Block Transfer, the right thumb
releases only one card, the King. Now the left fingers move the separated cards to the
right and at same time the two cards from right hand, Q and K, are weaved or worked
into the left hand cards as seen in Fig. 102. In this Fig. 102 note that the Jack is going
under the step and between two sets of two. The queen is going into the space below the
two stepped sets and onto the other two cards that were held back during the shuffle. Just
study the Fig. 102 and you will see it all clearly.

While the Fig. 102 basically shows how the cards are laid down into each other the
Fig. 103 shows the resulting "Triple Block Transfer".

The deck is now in Strip-Out condition. All that remains is to do a Strip-Out cut of
any type to bring stack to top of deck. Deal out 9 hands but step after each hand has two
cards. Point out that you have dealt a large number of hands and at the same time stacked
the cards so that three of the hands have pairs. Disclose accordingly.

Incidentally, if you use a deck in Stay-Stack order you can do your entire Stay-
Stack routine and then go into the above Poker Stack. All you have to do is run three
cards from face to back and throw deck onto it. You have the complimentary 3 cards or
so called matching 3 cards on top of the next identical 3 cards. Of course you could do a
very fast poker stack as follows: Have any one call any number of hands. Suppose they
call 7. All you do first is run off 7 cards from face and throw dock onto them. Do a
couple of False Shuffles and cuts to retain order of either whole deck or the top 14 cards.
At any rate deal out 7 hands, two cards to each hand, and every hand will have a pair!
Even those familiar with the Stay-Stack will be puzzled.

80
 GIN RUMMY STACK
This game is quite popular and while several players can participate, it usually is
played by two who enjoy the immediate personal conflicts Of course the fact that each
player gets Ten cards con also account for this being a two player game as compared to
the usual Rummy Game in which a player gets only seven cards. At any rate this stack is
a two player "Gin" type. It is designed to stack nine cards or three sets of three. While
using a Faro Riffle Shuffle could accomplish this very easily the problem here is to use a
regular riffle shuffle and still enable one to get the desired cards. It is accomplished by a
riffle stack of the nine cards plus use of a Second Deal.

The riffle stack itself can be made in various ways and here the student will have
to be familiar with his terms as applied to "Holding Back", "Releasing", "Holding Break",
"Block Transfers" etc. in order to grasp the brief descriptions for the various shuffle
combinations. The stack itself has to accomplish the result; from top down, of two X
cards - first set of 3 - Three X cards - second set of 3 - Three X Cards third set of 3. Now
follow the "Shuffle Combinations" -

first Combination - this is quite basic and thus should be easily remembered. It has
the advantage of not worrying about those cards already stacked thus providing one with
a full shuffle rather than a 'block' type. '

Nine cards on top. With both thumbs ruffle deck upwards holding back top three
cards and getting break below them with right thumb.

Right hand cuts off top half of the pack to the right maintaining the break on top
three cards.

Riffle Shuffle and concentrate on holding back 3 cards in left section and an
additional 3 cards in right hand portion.

Right hand now has two sets of three cards and left hand has one set of three cards.
Left hand moves its three cards to the right and below the two sets of three in right hand.
Thus you are Block Transferring 3 cards into right hand section.

Telescope the cards into each other setting up for any type Strip Out. Strip-Out the
cards and go into another riffle shuffle. This time concentrate on holding back 3 cards in
left section and 3 cards in right section.

The 3 cards in left hand are moved to the right. "Block Transferring" those to
under the 3 cards held back by right hand. Set-up for a Strip-Out as before.

81
 Strip-Out the cards. Riffle shuffle this time holding back two cards, from left hand
portion. Block Transfer these two cards to the right portion and set-up for a Strip-Out.

Strip-Out the cards followed by any of the cuts already explained to get the stack
to top. The nine cards are now set as needed that 2X-set of 3-3X-set of 3-3X-set of 3.

SECOND COMBINATION
(In Two Shuffles)
Nine cards on top. Follow the identical actions as outlined in Steps One to Four
inclusive to Block Transfer the first 3X cards and set-up for a Strip-Out.

Strip-Out the cards but before going into the shuffle the left thumb does a
"Preliminary Riffle" an its packet to hold back two card Thus left thumb is holding a two
card break as you go into the riffle

As you riffle shuffle the left thumb holds back an additional 3 cards. The right
thumb holds back 3 cards. The three cards from right hand are laid between the two sets
held back by left thumb. In other words the set of 3 from right hand go under the top two
X but above the 3X cards held by left thumb. At same time left fingers do a "Double
Block Transfer" to the right hand section and set-up for a Strip out. From here go into a
Strip-Out, followed by cuts to get stack to top.

THIRD COMBINATION
(In Two Shuffles)
This combination is interesting in that during the two shuffles the top cards of deck
are apparently lost or shuffled into deck.

Nine cards on top of deck. With both thumbs riffles cards upwards and hold back
top three cards. Get a break, with left thumb, below these 3 cards.

Right hand does a "Center Cut" from under the top three cards. Left thumb
maintains its break under the top 3 cards during the riffle shuffle to follow.

Riffle Shuffle holding back an additional-3 cards with left thumb. Right thumb
holds back 3 cards in its section. The right hand has also taken precaution to release a fair
block of cards that fall onto (or last) the left hand portion. This is shown in the Fig. 104.

82
 All you do now is let the 3 cards from right hand fall on top of all. The additional 3
cards, from left section, go onto the set of 3 needed cards as shown in Fig. 104. Square up
the deck fairly.

Before splitting for the shuffle the right thumb lifts up about half the deck and
releases two cards which are caught by left thumb. Right hand then cuts top portion to the
right. Left thumb has a break under top two cards in left section.

Riffle Shuffle holding back an additional three cards with left thumb. Right thumb
holds back three cards in its section. The three cards from right hand are weaved to
between the two sets of cards, two and three, held by left hand as seen in Fig. 105. Note
that a Double Block Transfer is taking place.

The left fingers do the Double Block Transfer to the right hand section at same
time setting up for a Strip-Out. Strip-Out the cards doing any of the cuts to get stack to
top.

With the cards set 2X - first set of 3 - 3X - second set of 3 - 3X and third set of 3
all that remains is to deal them properly so that you end up with all nine desired cards,
This is done via the Second Deal as follows:

You deal one Second on the second card. Now just deal Seconds on every third
card till you have nine cards each. The last two cards are dealt fair to complete the deal.
There is little memory involved once you execute the first Second on the second card or
as you apparently deal its simply 1-2-Second-1-2-Second and so forth for a Group Count
of 4 then the last two cards are fair. A little practice and you will quickly get the knack.
This makes an impressive demonstration even with the cards face up especially if you do
not look at the deck as you do the deal. Blindfold? That is up to you.

The following items are a few methods for accomplishing Block Transfers, from
top to bottom or bottom to top, in the course of merely shuffling but no cutting. The cards
are brought into the above positions by doing only two riffle shuffles. The basic idea is
originally that of Arthur Altman, of Syracuse, New York, who showed it to me many
years ago together with his own particular method for accomplishing same; however, the
following methods are my own developments of technique to arrive at the same results.

FOUR ACES TOP TO BOTTOM

First Method

Four Aces on top of deck. With right hand cut off top 15 cards or so. In other
words a small packet from top cut off to the right.

83
 Riffle Shuffle starting with the small packet in order to get to hold back four cards,
Aces, in right section before you riffle off too many cards in left section.

Actually you should have around twenty four cards, more or less, remaining in left
packet at the time you have the four Aces held back in right packet. The Fig. 106 makes
this clearer.

Right hand now releases a block of cards from left hand portion then the 4 Aces
are let fall onto this block. Result is as in Fig. 107 with about 18 cards remaining in the
top section in left hand. The block, onto which the Aces are let fall, consists of about 8
cards more or less, as in Fig. 107.

Release the top large block to fall onto the Aces. Now set-up for a Strip-Out as in
Fig. 108. The step on your inner left corner has the 4 Aces. Keep an eye on this corner to
insure being right in your next action.

The tip of 'left third finger now presses down at upper left corner which is the
locating corner as indicated in Fig. 108. The tip of left third finger will feel a stop just
below the space created by the small block of 8 cards. The Fig. 109 shows the condition
of this upper left corner and will give you a better idea of the location.

Keep pressing down, with left third fingertip, to keep these cards in place while
right hand sort of slides top portion off to right. If you have kept an eye on the inner left
jogged corner, the Aces, these should come away with the right hand. All that remains is
to riffle shuffle being sure the 4 bottom cards of right hand portion, the Aces, fall first.
The Aces are now at the bottom.

The other method, which may be easier for some, is to locate at the inner left
corner by merely lifting up the Aces' only with the ball of left thumb. Immediately
separate the deck taking the top portion, with Aces at bottom, to the left.

Riffle shuffle as before this time being sure you let 4 cards from left portion fall
first.

Second Method
Four Aces or top. Cut off a small packet from top to the left.

Riffle shuffle, starting with packet on left, until left thumb is holding back the four
Aces. Also a few cards from left section must be on top of those in right section. The Fig.
110 shows the situation with a block of about 16 cards or so being held back in right
portion.

84
 Both hands lower their cards so that the four Aces go under or below the top large
block. Also the left fingers move the four Aces to the right, as for a Block Transfer, but
also forward so that the upper left corner of the Aces moves in front of the left third
finger. This is seen in the Fig. 111. A top view of the action, plus the finger positions.

Telescope the cards into each other, keeping the Aces in front of the left third
finger, until you arrive at the condition as seen in Fig. 112. At this stage the Aces have
actually been Block Transferred to the bottom of the large top block from the right hand
section.

The tip of left third finger now presses down on the outer left corner of the lower
portion at point marked X in Fig. 112 above.

Right hand merely cuts off all cards above this lower portion. The Aces are now
bottom cards of the right hand section. All that remains is to riffle shuffle letting the Aces
fall first onto the bottom

The actions have been described starting with left hand cutting top portion to the
left; however, the same results can be obtained by starting with right hand cutting top
small portion to the right. From here all the actions are similar except done on the right.
In other words in Fig. 110 the large block would be on the left section and Aces would be
on the right halt. In Fig. 111 the Aces would be moved, in a Block Transfer, to in front of
the right third finger. At Fig. 112 the X corner of course would end up on the right end of
deck and it would be the right third finger tip that would press down on X as left hand
would cut off the top portion. The left section would then have the Aces at bottom and
these would be released first in the final or second shuffle.

FOUR ACES FROM BOTTOM TO TOP

First Method

Four Aces on bottom of deck, Right hand cuts off a large portion, from top, to the
right. Left hand portion has about 18 cards or so.

Riffle shuffle by first riffling off about half the cards from right hand portion.
Follow by releasing the four Aces from left hand portion and then a few cards, 8 or so,
from right hand section. The result is the Aces are actually between a large block of cards
on the bottom and small block of cards on top. This is seen in Fig. 113.

The rest of the cards can now be shuffled in normally, Telescope the cards into
each other and set-up for a Strip-Out. This is similar to Fig.108 except the Aces will be
located at the outer left corner.

85
 If you will examine the outer left corner you will see a condition similar to that
shown in Fig. 114 where the jogged Aces show clearly.

The tip of left third finger locates these Aces, at outer left corner, and presses
down on them to keep them in place as right hand cuts off top portion to the right.

The four Aces will now be top cards of the left hand portion. All that remains is to
shuffle accordingly to let Aces fall on top.

Second Method
Four Aces on bottom of deck. With right hand undercut a small portion to the
right. Aces are bottom cards of this portion.

Riffle shuffle to block off the Aces as already explained. The Fig. 113 shows this
blocking off' except in this case the Ace blocking would be on the right side.

Telescope the cards into each other and set-up for a Strip-Out. The jogged Aces
will now be at the inner left corner. The Fig. 115 shows the left end of deck where you
will note a covering block just above the blocked off Aces.

The 'covering block' is pushed flush with rest of deck, by left thumb, as indicated
in Fig. 115. Of course the left fingers are on other side of deck as left thumb pushes in the
covering block. Matter of fact both hands are on deck as if' about to square up the deck.

The result, of pushing in the 'covering block' is seen in Fig. 116, a top view, which
shows only the 4 Aces now projecting at inner left corner.

The underside of left thumb presses down on the jogged Aces to keep them in
place as right hand cuts off, in a sort of a sliding action, the top portion to the right for
another shuffle. This second shuffle is of course made so that the Aces, now top cards of
left hand section, fall last or on top.

The above methods, for bringing cards from bottom to top and vice versa, can
make for interesting demonstrations of' card control. Rather than attempt all methods it is
best to pick one, from each category, that you feel most secure with.

I SHUFFLED THE CARDS

The above line should be a very familiar one to any card man who has ever heard a
layman speak of the prowess of some 'card hustler' he just happened to know. These
stories, depending on what they are, usually also give some inkling of a possible modus

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operandi this of course depending on your knowledge. For example if the layman says, "I
shuffled the cards and then my friend dealt everybody a Full House and himself the
Royal Flush" you should know several things: One - the trick is possible but not
necessarily as the spectator described it. In other words the spectator perhaps did not
shuffle the cards. Suppose he did shuffle the cards. Then your knowledge of the percent
ages in poker should assure you that the spectator was "cold decked" and missed the deck
switch. Suppose the layman says, "I shuffled the cards first and then he took them and
dealt out six hands and he got the four Aces."

This you can accept as within the realm of possibility because there are many
methods by which this could be accomplished such as Holding Out during the shuffle
adding to bottom and then bottom dealing or thru the use of marked cards although here
you must introduce the element of "luck". In order to get four Aces or any four of a kind,
they may be near bottom of deck too close to each other for any False Deal to hold them
for your hand. If the hand becomes a Full House and the spectator insists all the cards
were there then you can assume a marked deck of an eight or more card combination plus
a false deal.

If the spectator mentions that the operator did the shuffling and dealing then you
can assume anything is possible but always remember to also apply the laws of
probability, chance, odds and percentages to what you hear as concerning the conditions,
apparent method of procedure and the end result.

With the operators own deck a lot more becomes possible than with a borrowed
deck; however, do not rule out the possibility of the most complex arrangements being
made possible while "toying" with the pack just before the actual effect. Erdnase "Expert
at The Card Table" gives a good example of not only "Culling" but actually "Stocking" at
the same time while apparently holding the deck (or rather balance of the deck I presume
as the remaining players vie for the pot).

The following is a good example of a poker Deal that many a layman has
exaggerated only because he missed out on the procedure. I have used this for many years
and it about the closest thing to apparently letting a spectator shuffle his cards first. Then
you apparently stack them not only to give yourself a winning hand but also build up
sucker hands. Call it the -
BLUFF POKER STACK
Secretly hold out three of a kind. These can be the Jacks-Queens or Kings but do
not use Aces.

Spectator can shuffle deck all he likes. On getting deck you add on the three held
out cards. Assume these are the 3 Jacks.

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 With the 3 Jacks on top go into a regular riffle stack, for five hands, of the 3 Jacks.
At same time comment that you will, during the shuffle, stack yourself a good hand as
well as a couple of 'sucker' hands.

All you really have done so far is merely stacked the 3 Jacks every 5th card for a
five handed Game of Draw Poker.

Deal out as follows: The first four hands you deal out face up but your hand, 5th,
in dealt face down. At conclusion you have five cards face down in your hand and four
hands, of five cards each, face up.

During the deal notice if the 4th Jack shows up among the face up cards. You may
use it. At any rate I shall detail the procedure just as it is actually happening. In other
words I have just stacked the three Jacks and have dealt four hands face up and five face
down into the 5th hand. Look at your hand. Mine happens to have 3 Jacks, Queen and 2.

The first hand happens to have the 4th Jack. It also has a 7 Club- 9 Diamond- 6
Club, and Ace diamond. Do not discard any cards. Merely deal off three cards face up
just below the five cards. These 3 cards have a pair of fours and a 3 of Clubs. On
examination a pair of fours is the only possible thing out of the total 8 cards. Quickly say,
"Well this fellow won't stick around with a pair of fours so he will drop out." Here scoop
up all the hand, but be sure the Jack goes on top, and leave this hand face up in a squared
up position on left.

In the event that the first hand would come out usable you may still be able to have
the Jack as part of the discard and it would again be on top of face up discards.

The second hand has 10S-9S-3D-6S-4S, a possible flush, so far, in spades. Deal
off three cards as before if the first card is not a Spade. I have just dealt off 2 Kings and a
10C. The best possible hand is two pair. Immediately you say "As you can see this man I
gave a good betting hand of two pair Kings over Tens." Here quickly pair the cards and
leave highest card, of the remaining four, with two pair. The discards are tossed face up
onto the first squared up discard packet.

The third hand happens to have two pair already, 2 Queens and two Aces with a
2D. In dealing off three cards I dealt 5H-7D-As. That last card, Ace was a good break
making the third hand a full house Aces over Kings. Remember at this point this hand
con beat yours.

The 4th hand has 5C-10H-2S-8H-3H and possible inside straight; however, you
usually say, "Don't forget deuces wild." In dealing off the next 3 cards, from balance of
deck, I come up with 10D-5S and 2H. Another break as you now make this hand 4 Tens.
This is another hand beating yours. Place discards face up onto discard packet.

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 Here is the only crucial point. Place your deck face up onto the discards and at
same time pick up your hand. Discard two cards face down to the right. Scoop up deck,
which includes discards, to take off top two cards. Naturally you get the 4th Jack. This
has been discarded so long ago that no one will remember it.

Point out the three sucker hands you have given then show your hand of four Jacks
to beat them all.

A few simple "Do Not Rules" should be borne in mind. For example do not make
deuces wild if it pairs up with a higher card than your Jacks. In other words, a Queen-
King or Ace.

In the event that your three Jacks beat the cards on board then do not bother with
the draw. There is also the possibility of a natural Full House in your hand; however, if
not you can always get a mate for one of the two cards. As an example your hand had a
Queen and a Deuce. Thus the board had a usable Deuce, the Queens were paired, if you
remember, providing you did not make it a wild card.

Do not make any hand on board actually beat yours. For example, the pair of
Queens and Aces, which became a Full House, could beat your Jacks and Deuces. In this
case you would give the Queens and Aces only one card and to make sure it would not
match either pair it could be a bottom dealt card which you had previously glimpsed.

At this stage you may wonder why not hold out four cards. The reason is that there
are times when the opportunity for even holding out a pair may not be present. In this
case it is possible to actually cull a pair or three of Q kind and stack them; however, four
of a kind, while possible with the right breaks, is not as practical as a location and stack
of a pair or three of a kind.

It is also possible to locate a pair almost immediately with just one blocking off
action as many times a pair of cards will be together. Then from here the third matching
card can be located. This again depends on getting the breaks so to speak; however, it has
been my experience that using a definite procedure or system is far superior in many
ways to depending strictly on breaks or luck.

Also. with a definite system of procedure you can then much more quickly and
without confusion take advantage of so called good breaks as well as overcome the bad
breaks. The system about to be explained may appear complex only because of the details
of overcoming "Problems" when and if they arise. Familiarity with these "Problems" and
how they are handled will make the "Cull" sure fire and fairly easy. As to the actual stack
itself this can be made after the cull or during the cull. Here again knowing the procedure
and system thoroughly is important.

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 THE THREE CARD CULL AND STOCK
The Cull and Stock will be described first under what would be ideal conditions
and then its "Problems" will be detailed further on.

Assume the pack has been shuffled and you have not had any opportunity to
glimpse any cards. The deck is in front of you ready for your shuffle. You will use the
"Open Shuffle" as per Riffle Shuffle Systems.

Cut off about 15 cards, from top, with right hand. As both hands lift up the
portions, for the shuffle, you get a look at the bottom card of the left hand portion. For the
sake of clarity assume this is an Ace although it could be any card.

Let the Ace fall off first and as you shuffle you do it in such a way that you can see
the faces or indexes of the cards in left hand portion. Do not shuffle too slowly but also
not so rapidly that you can't make out the cards as they riffle by.

What you are looking for is another Ace. Assume you have seen one. You let it
fall but immediately Block it off with all the remaining cards in your right hand. If this
Block off is near the center, an ideal condition, this will be only a few cards and the
situation is as in Fig. 1.

Telescope the cards into each other setting up for a Simplex Strip Out with Block
Transfer or any other type. The result is in Fig. 2.

At the stage of Fig. 2 you have two alternatives. One you can cut oft all the cards
up to the step or, two, you can do a Strip Out. In either case you will have an Ace at top
and bottom of the left hand section.

Riffle shuffle again making sure that bottom Ace is released first. As you shuffle,
you try to locate and Block Off the next Ace. Assume you again have the ideal condition
in that the-third Ace is blocked off somewhere around center of deck. The conditions are
now as in Fig. 3, with an Ace still at top and bottom and third Ace Blocked off.

Telescope the cards into each other and set up for a Strip-Out moving over the top
block that is above the third Ace. The result will be similar to Fig. 2 except an Ace will
be at top and bottom and the third Ace will be at the Step.

Once more you have the choice of doing a Strip Out with the Block Transfer or
merely cutting off the top cards to the Step. In either case you will have an Ace at top and
bottom of left portion and one Ace on top of right hand portion.

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 Riffle Shuffle getting two Aces together at top of deck and retaining the bottom
Ace on the bottom. You now have two Aces on top and one on the bottom.

At this stage you can go into a Riffle Stack and the procedure can vary in many
ways such as stacking the first two Aces that are on top and then later cutting bottom Ace
to top and then stacking it. Another is to use the mechanics of the Center Stack. (See
Center Stack in another section)

Briefly the mechanics are: Cut about 15 cards from the bottom, with right hand, to
top and keep a break below these with left thumb. You have one Ace above the break and
two below the break. Right hand undercuts about half the cards that are below the break,
Riffle Shuffle holding back four cards on right hand portion and two cards, the Aces, just
below the break which left thumb has maintained. Release one Ace then the four cards
and set up for a regular Strip-Out to bring the angle Job at inner left corner.

With left thumb press down on this inner corner and obtain a break above it. At
this stage you have one Ace stacked fifth just below the break. There are two Aces above
the break. With right thumb release one Ace so that it falls onto the section below the
break.

Again undercut, with right hand, half the cards that arc below the break, Riffle
shuffle holding back four cards on the right at same time being sure that no other cards
are mixed or shuffled into those already stacked in left hand section, Release the four
cards onto the second Ace and again setup for the regular Strip Out with angle jog at
inner left corner.

Once more left thumb presses down on this corner and obtains the break. There are
two Aces stacked below the break and there is one Ace still above the break. Right thumb
releases this one Ace onto the section below the break at same time carries off remaining
top cards to the right.

All that remains is to stack the last Ace which is on top of left portion. The small
right hand packet will practically insure that you will not mix cards into those two Aces
already stacked as right holds back four cards to let fall onto last Ace, The complete Cull
and Stock can be done very quickly. From here you can go into the "Bluff Poker Deal.”

The above Cull and Stock is one done with ideal conditions; however, there are
problems that arise and it is up to the student to have a 'system' for handling such
problems. The following will then be an outline of actions for each particular problem.

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 Let me say now that these problems really occur when a card, to be culled, is
Blocked Off and it is too near the bottom of deck. If you Stripped-Out or cut above the
Step you would be left with perhaps about a half dozen cards in the left section. As you
con readily see this makes the next so called riffle shuffle almost ridiculous. The
solutions then are 'systems of procedure' designed to overcome this situation which may
occur even as you go to cull the last or third card.

PROBLEM # 1
You are just starting your Cull. You have spotted bottom card of left hand section,
assume it is the Ace, then suddenly, only six cards later, the second Ace shows up in left
hand portion and you immediately Block it off.

This results in the bottom Ace and Blocked off Ace being only six cards away or
perhaps even less. You have a "Problem" and here the Fig. 4 is showing this.

Telescope the cards into each other setting up for a Simplex-Strip Out by not
pushing in right hand portion completely as in Fig. 5.

With right hand undercut all of the bottom section plus the injogged Block and cut
it to top as in Fig. 6. A break is also immediately obtained, by left thumb, on those few
cards that are jogged to the left. Note that left ends of cards are even and Block jogged to
right.

Right hand strips-out only the injogged block. Left thumb maintains break on
those few cards left behind as seen in Fig. 7.

Riffle Shuffle, holding break with left thumb at same time, letting cards from right
hand portion fall below the cards held by the break as in Fig. 8 which shows how the
cards above the break have been blocked off.

Telescope the cards into each other setting up for a regular Strip Out as shown in
Fig. 9. The Angle jog marks off the upper or top section.

Press down with left thumb on jog, at inner left corner, and obtain a break. The
situation now is shown in Fig. 10 with an Ace on top and one Ace above the break.

With right hand under cut half of the cards, below the break, at same time slipping
top card of deck with the undercut portion as in Fig. 11

This time use the right hand portion of cards to block off the cards above the break
in left hand portion in a manner similar to that already shown in Fig. 8 and an Ace will be
top card of right hand portion or block.

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 Telescope cards into each other setting up for the regular Strip-Out as in Fig. 9 and
obtain break, with left thumb, on the angle jog as shown in Fig. 10 except here one Ace
will be below the break and the other Ace above the break.

Release the Ace from upper portion so it joins the Ace below the break. You may
now have only about five cards above the break; therefore, you undercut, with right hand,
about Ten cords to top. Right hand now cuts off the top cards up to the break in readiness
for the next shuffle and to Block Off the third Ace. If this third Ace is fairly in center or
in a reasonable position you should have no problem getting it together with the two Aces
already on top. Suppose, however, that you again get the third Ace blocked off about only
four or five cards from the bottom. You must become familiar with the procedure and
system as now outlined in Problem #2.

PROBLEM # 2
Two Aces already on top but third card is about four cards from bottom and has
been blocked off by the cards from right hand section. Situation is similar to Fig. 4 except
only one Ace, the blocked off Ace, figures here as two are already on top

Telescope the cards into each other but getting them into the Simplex Strip-Out as
already shown in Fig. 5 where right hand block remains jogged on right.

Right hand undercuts all the cards, including the jogged block, to top but the
protruding cards are placed about a half inch from left end of deck.

Right hand now strips out the jogged block as left fingers retain the few cards
which now become automatically end jogged to the right. Right hand places its block of
cards to top of deck flush with left end of deck and at same time left thumb gets a break
beneath this block.

Right hand immediately cute out the few jogged cards, protruding on the right, and
places these to the top. At this stage the third card or Ace is on top and the other two
Aces below the break. A-B-C and D shows the Action for the Cut. This action has the
appearance of an undercut followed by a double cut. If the undercut and double cut is
executed as one sequence it has the result of seeming to have performed a Triple Cut.
(See "Action of Cut")

Here you have two choices. One you can cut at the break and immediately go into
the stack but remembering that one Ace is on top of right hand section and two on the left
hand portion. This means if you hold back on the right you must compensate for the Ace
which incidentally can fall under the top Ace in left hand section. Thus one Ace is

93
stacked and the other two are on top ready to be stacked, two you can cut at break and get
all 3 Aces to top before going into the stack.

PROBLEM # 3
Here you have managed to block off the second Ace in an ideal condition so that
after the cut, at the Step, or after a Strip-Out, one Ace will be on top of left hand portion
and one Ace will be on bottom of left hand portion. The right hand cards are of course
now used to block oft the third Ace. If it is located and blocked off, you handle it
according to whether it is an ideal situation or as follows if it is again only a few cards
from the bottom.

The Fig.12 shows the situation with one Ace at bottom, one Ace at top and one
Ace blocked off only a few cards from the bottom. Note similarity to Fig. 4.

Telescope cards into each other but set-up for Simplex-Strip Out by leaving right
hand portion jogged to the right as in Fig. 13. Note similarity to Fig. 5.

Right hand undercuts all the cards, including the jogged portion, to the top and left
thumb gets its, break on the jogged cards to the left as in Fig. 14. Again note similarity to
Fig.6. Left thumb of course holds the break.

Right hand strips-out the jogged section resulting in the condition shown in Fig. 15
with one Ace on top of left hand portion, one Ace above the break and one Ace below the
break and one Ace below the break. Situation is similar to Fig. 7 which involves only two
Aces.

Maintain break with left thumb on left portion as you riffle shuffle. During this
shuffle the right hand cards are used to Block Off below the lowermost Ace or just under
two Aces as in Fig. 16. Thus two Aces are above the Block and one Ace is on top of
deck.

Telescope the cards into each other setting up for a regular Strip Out as already
shown in Fig. 9. Obtain the break, with left thumb, above the angle jog. The result is then
as in Fig. 17 with two Aces above the break and one Ace on top of deck.

With right hand undercut half the cards that are below the break at same time
slipping top Ace along with bottom portion as already shown in Fig. 11. After this
undercut plus Slip cut you have one Ace on top of right hand portion. In left hand section
you have two Aces above the break.

In riffle shuffling use the right hand portion to again Block off under the two Aces
in left hand portion. Result is shown in Fig. 18. Ace on top of block

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 Telescope the cards into each other and set-up for the regular Strip-Out as per
Fig.9. Obtain break, above the angle jog, with left thumb. The result is now one Ace
below the break and two Aces above the break.

Maintain the break, with left thumb, as right hand undercuts half the cards that are
below the break, to the right resulting in the Fig. 19 from which you can now go into the
"Center Stack". (See "Center Stack")

As you go over each problem you will readily see that the basic mechanics are
similar and merely handled differently according to the situation that arises.

There will be a time when having culled two cards, under ideal conditions one will
be on top of left hand portion and one on the bottom of left hand portion with the right
hand portion just having been either cut off at the Step or Stripped out as in Fig. 20.

The right hand portion is then used to locate and cull the third card. Under ideal
conditions you would know how to proceed as we l as under problem conditions which in
this case could only be "Problem No. 3" However, suppose you fall to locate the third
card on this shuffle?

First of all merely square up the deck leaving the culled cards, already at top and
bottom, in the same positions. With right thumb lift up about 15 cards, at back only,
carrying these to the right but the left first finger holds back the top card (Slip Cut) as in
Fig. 21.

The above Slip Cut will result in the situation again being as in the Fig. 20;
therefore, you can now try again for that third card. Once more let me emphasize the fact
that the blocking and culling will become quite rapid once you are thoroughly familiar
with the course of action required for each awkward situation as outlined under the
"Problems."

If you feel that there is a noticeable element of time this is overcome by your
patter that you intend to stack, "More than one hand", as after the stacking you go into the
"Bluff Poker Deal.”

Whenever it is possible to use your own cards the culling of the desired cards can
be based on mechanical means such as Concave or Convex Strippers. The use of narrow
or long cards has also been of use; however, for years I have used a card cut like one
from a standard Stripper Deck.

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 I found this to be superior to the narrow card for the simple reason that the narrow
card has a tendency to 'shift' in the pack thus making it at times difficult to locate without
tapping the deck on the sides. In using the standard stripper card it stays in place and is
located either at left end or right end so deck lies in front of performer with its side facing
him.

In the available literature there has been nothing written on the use of a standard
Stripped card as a form of key card although its principle has been mentioned in a book
written by Anthony Norman titled Basic Card Technique, printed in 1948. In the next
few pages I will describe some of these uses. I call it the "Marlo-Short Card" only
because of using it so long and also to give the key card itself some identity. Also, later
on will be given other types which may find favor with the student. -

MARLO SHORT CARD

This is a card cut on right side only, like a Stripper Deck, as the card lies face
down or along its non index side. The Fig. 22 shows the idea.

The above Fig. 22 is in no way a reflection on the student’s knowledge but only
used to give a clear picture, in the minds eye, of the length of the cut. The Fig. 22 shows
the average length of cut which starts about a quarter of an inch off of the top corner and
then down at an angle.

As the length of the cut is lessened the stripper card is made finer providing the
same relative angle of cut is used. Conversely if the angle is changed the stripper card
also becomes either very fine or quite obvious. Naturally this all supposes that the cut is
not started down the full length of the card. For the present the following ideas are based
on the standard Stripper card.

With the narrow end, of the stripper key, at inner end or towards performer the
card can be located (A) by riffling upwards with right thumb at left lower side while
holding deck as if to split for a Faro shuffle in the hands. (B) Card can also be located by
riffling down, with left 4th finger, at right side near inner right corner.

You will note I am not here concerned with the obvious method of riffling down,
with left thumb, at upper ' left side if the narrow end is at front end. The riffling action in
all cases must be soft and noiseless as possible and accomplished without looking at the
deck; however a quick glance, before the actual riffling action, is an aid in determining its
position thus making the location faster knowing just where to expect the riffling action
to pay off.

By tapping the deck on its right side the strip short will jog itself very slightly at
lower left corner and upper right corner. The pack should be held at center of the ends,

96
between right second finger at front end and right thumb at back end. The faces of cards
will of course be towards the left and the backs toward the right. The narrow end of card
is towards performer.

At any rate the projections can be spotted visually as well as located by sense of
touch. By touch the right thumb can locate card at lower left corner or by right second
finger at upper right corner. When the deck is tapped on side where the card has not been
cut, nothing will jog due to the straight edge of the card on this ride. Tapping deck on the
right side will also show you a line in the pack to note the key cards position. -

With the deck tabled, as for a Riffle Shuffle, and narrow end to the right the right
thumb can locate the card by riffling upwards at right side near right end. This action is
used previous to splitting for a riffle shuffle. The key card will be top card of left hand
portion and easily brought to top providing left thumb riffles its cards at extreme ends in
order that only one card will be held back. Otherwise if the narrow side is engaged the
thumb will automatically hold two cards which will be difficult to separate if the situation
should call for this.

In step 2, where the tapping of deck is used to jog the key card, this can be used to
locate via the Roman Shuffle (See Riffle Shuffle Systems) or the so called standard
Dovetail Shuffle. The right thumb, in this case, would locate the key at upper end as the
pack is turned for the splitting of the deck prior to the shuffle.

If you cut at the outer corner or at the projection then the key will be cut to face of
the upper half and naturally will be shuffled to the bottom. However, if right thumb
riffles at inner corner, nearest performer, the key here is short, due to its angling, thus it
can be left on top of the lower half and eventually becomes top card after the shuffle.

With the narrow sides or the Stripper Key at upper end of the deck the left thumb
can locate in the standard manner; however, by curling left first finger under deck the key
can be located at upper right side by riffling downwards with tip of left second finger.
This action becomes a secret one if the right hand is above deck apparently grasping it by
the ends for the cut to follow.

Tapping deck on its left side, faces of cards to the right, the Stripper Short will jog
itself at lower left corner and upper right corner. The pack is of course face down at this
stage. The pack should be pinched firmly in crotch of left thumb in order to maintain the
jogs when using them to locate by touch and grasped firmly at sides by left fingers and
thumb if you use the jogs for the Dove Tail Shuffle control.

Left first finger is curled under deck and aids in keeping jogs in place by pressing
inwards against face of deck. If the deck is tabled for a Riffle Shuffle the left thumb
locates the Stripper Short at inner left side but right hand undercuts this portion in order

97
to carry the key on top of right hand portion. This way the wide end is on right side and
no trouble is experienced in making this card the last card of the shuffle. These left and
right actions become important when dealing with multiple Stripper Short cards.

With the narrow end, of the Stripper Short, at upper end of deck hold deck with
left hand as follows: The face of deck is towards left palm. The left thumb is placed on
top end of deck and second-third-4th fingers at bottom end of deck. The left first finger is
curled on face of deck. The right fingers and thumb squeeze the upper ends of deck, as in
Fig. 23, causing them to spring or buckle away from under left thumb.

This action also separates the cards in a sort of accordion condition. To retain this
condition the right fingers and thumb maintain their pressure, This leaves left thumb free
to now move over and press down on top end of all the cards again. Left fingers and
thumb now hold the cards as right hand lets go for the moment.

Right hand now re-grasps the pack but this time by the upper ends only between
right second finger and thumb. The right first finger is slightly above top ends of cards.
The Fig. 24 shows how right hand is holding the cards.

Note that the accordion condition of the deck is retained thus the cards are in a
separated condition. If you now shake the deck slightly, the Stripped Short card will fall
out at bottom end. This in itself is a good effect; however, to use it as a control this card
is let fall onto tops of left fingers.

The left 4th fingertip pulls down on the corner of the card at same time pushing it
back and getting a break above it. The left hand turns palm upwards. This moves the
decks sides along right fingers and thumb until right hand can grasp the right ends of
deck. Right thumb takes over the break, at inner right end, and deck is lowered to table
for either a cutting action or a riffle shuffle to bring card to top.

Using the above as an out and out effect the best procedure is of course to force
the actual Stripper Short. The best method for this would be the Marlo Reverse Fingertip
Peek (See Advanced Fingertip Control) In this case, the card would have its narrow end
at the top end of deck. Do the accordion actions as per Fig. 23.

When left band is holding deck, as in Fig. 25, the left hand turns inwards so that
right hand can grasp this end of deck. Right hand now moves forward quickly and stops
sharply. This results in the Stripper Short shooting out of center of deck. The Fig' 26
shows the card in the process of moving out. The right hand action is mostly with the
wrist. A few trials and you will quickly get the idea.

All the steps l to 6 assumed a Stripper key that has been cut on the right side or
along its non-Index side; however, a Stripper Short can also be cut along its index side or

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on left side of the card as it lies face down. It such a card is used then the steps l to 6 still
applies but the results will be in reverse. As an example with the deck tapped on the sides
the jogs will be at upper left corner and lower right corner of ends of deck.

A few other uses of the Stripper Short are in things like a Double Lift, Placing the
Stripper Key, with its narrow end towards performer, say at third from the top and using
the Hit Method of Double Lifting will insure two cards each time; however, its best
application would be to place the key at about 5th from top and then using the Hit method
very easily do a Multiple Lift as for an ambitious card routine.

If you should want to include the Stripper Short in the left then use the left 4th
finger tip to pull down or riffle down to the Key. In this way the key will be part of the
upper cards.

At this stage the student may feel that I have gone far afield from the subject in
mind which is Riffle Shuffles; however, a complete understanding of the actions of the
Stripper Short Card will enable one to handle Multiple Stripper Short Cards with more
confidence. The next pages will deal with that phase.

MULTIPLE STRIPPER CONTROL

In essence you can have the deck shuffled and on taking it back can cull all the
Aces or part of them. Also from here you can stack them.

The deck la regular for 48 cards; however, the four Aces have been cut to make up
the Stripper Short cards. These can be cut as broad or as fine as you may feel you need.

In using Multiple Stripper Short cards naturally they will not always lie in the
same direction in the pack. For example two may have their narrow ends at right end of
deck and the other two at left end. If the length of your cut, on the Aces, is only about an
inch then you can easily recognize their position by simply glancing at the sides of the
deck. You will readily see lines and two will be at one end and two at the other.

The best procedure, for spotting the positions of the cut Aces is to tip the deck so it
is held, between both hands, with one end against table. By glancing at the upper corner
that is nearest you there will be distinct lines visible. Even in the darkest of shadows you
can still see this line separation at the tip of this corner and it will appear as shown in
Fig.27.

The above lines tell you how many of the Aces have to be located at the left end of
deck. The Fig. 27 shows three Aces to be located from left end. Naturally you also know
that one Ace will have to be located at right end. Also bear in mind that you have spotted

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and noted the approximate positions of them; however, decide on only one and this one
usually closest to center.

Remember that when left thumb does the locating the right hand undercuts and
carries off the Ace with this portion. In riffle shuffling right thumb can easily hold back
only the Ace. (This is important when there are a couple of Aces already on top.)

When the right thumb does the locating the left hand either undercuts or right hand
carries off top portion. In either case the Ace will become top card of left hand section
and left thumb can easily hold back the Ace to fall last.

Most of the time, once knowing how many Aces are turned one way or the other,
you can locate simply by the upward thumb riffle of either hand; however, that last Ace
can at times become a problem. In this case a quick look at the corner of the deck, as in
Fig. 27, will show you the location of the last Ace and thus if it is too near the bottom or
top you can first 'centralize' it in a preliminary riffle shuffle.

From here then it is easily located and shuffled to top with the others. Of course
there will be times you may have to turn the deck end for end due to the fact that the last
Ace may have its narrow end at right end of deck.

There are times when two Aces may be separated by a few cards or even one card.
In this case when the thumb does the locating, which is of course from the bottom of deck
upwards, one Ace will be the top card of a section but the Ace that was above will be
near the bottom or second card in its section.

In Riffle Shuffling the Ace that is near the bottom is first centralized by making
sure it goes above a large block of cards released from the opposite section. The Fig. 28
shows this action assuming the Ace is near-the bottom of the right hand portion;
however, this identical action also applies should the Ace be near the bottom of left hand
portion except it would be the left hand portion on top of a large block from right hand
section.

With proper attention to some of the minor problems you should have very little
difficulty in quickly culling all four Aces to top and then stacking them. If you are alert
you can stack them as you cull them. This is simply to first get one Ace to top; however,
when you locate the second Ace you must hold it back plus enough cards for the stack.
For example you want to stack for five hands. You would hold back the Ace plus four
cards and these are let fall onto the first Ace, this system is repeated for the next located
Ace until all four are culled and stacked.

No doubt there are those persons who are more proficient with one hand than the
other and therefore are more comfortable and secure if the actions are relegated to that

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hand which is more skilled. For this reason cards cut especially for either left or right
hand locations can be made as follows:

For a right hand location the four Aces, or any other cards you may desire to use,
are trimmed at both index sides of the card. The Fig. 29 shows the back of the card and
the cut is at lower left corner and upper right corner. The length of the cut, on each side,
starts from the center of the cards side.

For a left hand location the four Aces are trimmed at both non-index sides of the
card or at lower right corner and upper left corner as the card lies face down. The Fig. 30
shows the back of this card. Again the length of the cut is from the center of the sides.

The cards, cut as in Fig. 29, will show at outer corner when deck is held on end
against table top. These will be just fine lines or separations noticeable on the corner as in
Fig. 31. The faces of deck are towards the left.

With the cards cut as in Fig. 30 the lines will show up at inner corner with the deck
held on end and faces of cards towards the left.

With either type of card one thumb must always press at center of the cards, at the
point marked X, as shown in Fig. 32

The reason for holding one thumb at center is so the pack is split for the shuffle
this thumb will be in the correct position for holding back only one card. It also aids in
keeping the cut cards in position while other thumb does the riffle to locate. The lines,
always being on the one corner, depending on whether you use left or right hand location,
makes it easy to spot its position and thus quickly estimate just where to expect the
location.

Strangely enough, because the cut is made from the center of each side of the cards
the one set of either type can be used with either left or right hand location. The left or
right thumb, as needed, is always at center, as in Fig. 32, while the location is being
made.

If one desires the cards to be strictly either left or right hand locations then the
length of the cut must be shorter on each side. About an inch length, from each side, is
practical and sure. This is up to the individual to decide.

Finally - if it is desired to Cull and Stack the Aces I would restrict it to three Aces
for efficiency and expedience. From here you could use the "Bluff Poker" demonstration.

The student may have to go through much experimentation to finally arrive at

what ho feels is best for him but he will find the research most enlightening as well as

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rewarding. For an example if you cut the cards at the ends instead of the sides you can
have a method of controlling the located cards to the bottom. Briefly you would cut the
ends at the lower right end and upper left end as in Fig. 33. The length of the cut could be
from the center of the end or less if desired.

The above type of card can of course be located during a regular Dove-Tail
Shuffle and brought to top; however, by tapping the lower end of the deck against table
the cut Aces will jog themselves at inner left side. The face of deck is towards the left and
upper ends held by left thumb and fingers.

Thus, the jogged cards will be towards you. The right thumb can easily lift up on
any one of the jogged cards and in splitting for the riffle shuffle, on the table, this Ace
becomes the bottom card of the right hand portion.

The Fig. 34 shows how the Aces jog out at left side. A side view. You have to
repeat the tapping of end of deck to locate the next Ace but this can become a natural
'habit' action and actually give the appearance of fairly squaring the deck. If only the
outer end is tapped the Aces will jog at inner left corner.

This then can be used to locate the jogs, 60 you go into the regular Dovetail
Shuffle, to thus bring each Ace to the bottom. Combinations of bringing some Aces to
top and some to the bottom can also be done.

If in some way this has aroused an inspiration to pursue this subject further then
the discourse has not been wasted.

THE GREAT DISCOVERY

You are now in possession of the finest Stripper deck available anywhere. Your
deck may be either an End Stripper or Side Stripper and the pack is so marked.

At this point you may say, "So, what is so great about even a fine Stripper Deck?'
Well, my friend, the deck you have in your possession has NOT BEEN TAMPERED
with in any manner whatever! These cards are EXACTLY as bought from the counter of
a retail store. If you have received a Side-Stripper deck chances are it is the "Invincible"
plastic coated playing cards.

Yes--this is the Great Discovery. The fact that this type of card comes in a Stripper
condition directly from the manufacturer and without that source being aware of this
condition.

The brand called "INVINCIBLE" and plastic coated will be found to be Side-
Strippers and the average is about 8 decks out of a dozen with the red-backed cards

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having the larger percentage. The Invincible Card is made by Whitman Publishing Co. of
Racine, Wisconsin and is sold by Woolworth Stores although there are other retailers
who also handle this pack.

Besides the Invincible cards there are other brands but most of these I found to be
very fine End Strippers. These are the Streamline brand and the Vegas Club brand both
plastic coated. The Arco Playing Card Co. of Chicago manufactures these. Strangely
enough, E. O. Drane Novelty Co. of Chicago has Arco Playing Co. package the
Streamline brand under an Enardoe brand name. If you come across any of the above
brands of cards check them out for Strippers. Matter of fact, you can almost assume that
any inexpensive brand of plastic coated cards have the Strips.

The above means you can walk into a store carrying these brands and pick up
really fine Stripper Decks for around forty-cents a pack. If you know for sure that a
certain store carries these cards you can walk in with your visiting brother cardician and
openly buy a half dozen decks. In order to open more than one you have to make up some
excuse, such as, "I Gave all the Jokers," but you may be lucky and the first pack you open
will be a Stripper of either the end or side type. You are on your way to doing some
miracle locations.

In handling the Strippers it is best to handle at extreme corners in order to strip out
a card. With these cards you can safely hand the pack to another card expert for squaring
up. They are very fine and even you may have trouble at first in Stripping out the
selection but in time you will be able to locate more than one, such as four Aces, that may
have first been turned.

As you realize this is information you should use for entertaining only, Keep this
information to yourself and use it wisely

103
EFFECTS

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 Although several effects have already been described, in connection with methods
under discussion in the other sections, these additional effects will be found a welcome
addition to your repertoire of Riffle Shuffle Effects.

The student should be thoroughly familiar with the technical terms and various
shuffles and he will have little trouble in understanding the effects that follow. While the
effect may use one type of shuffle, to describe it, actually any type of false shuffle, to
retain order of the whole deck con be used or as suggested, in the effect itself, with
alternatives.

As has been pointed in an earlier section an effect such as "Triumph" can be used
most effectively to disguise the fact that you are actually keeping a stacked deck intact.
Naturally, it is really based on the fact that the majority of card men, who do this effect,
never use a stacked deck when performing same; therefore, you have a psychological
advantage right from the start. Only two methods will be discussed but from these you
can make other combinations.

TWO TRIUMPHS
The effect you know - cards are shuffled face up and face down and then become
'righted' with perhaps the exception of a previously selected card or cards or perhaps four
of a kind such as Aces.

FIRST TRIUMPH
This keeps the whole deck in order from top to bottom.

While any type of 'stack' or order can be used on the pack itself I will assume you
have it in a most obvious order such as Ace to King with the suits in C-H-S-D order. That
is, A to K of C - A to K of H etc. thru out the deck. The deck is not shuffled at this stage
but merely introduced.

Have a card selected from somewhere in center of the deck and have it returned to
the same place. In squaring up the deck get a left 4th finger tip break above the selected
card.

With right hand above deck the right thumb lifts up, beck end of deck, to the
break. Left 4th finger tip moves out and the break is transferred to the base of the thumb.
All fingers curl around right side of deck and break is maintained by base of left thumb at
inner left corner.

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 In squaring up the deck, and getting the break, the deck should be rather deep or
low in the left hand, thus when the break is transferred it will actually project beyond the
base of the thumb.

The right hand now changes position to grasp deck by the inner ends. The right
thumb easily obtains the break, at inner left side, as it removes the deck from left hand.

Right hand tables the deck at same time maintaining the break on performer's side.
Left hand immediately positions itself on the opposite end of deck in readiness for the
splitting of the pack.

Right hand cuts off top cards, up to the break, to the right. The selected card is on
top of the left section. Ribbon spread with both hands, each half face downwards in a
downward spread.

Gather both spreads, one at a time, squaring up each half. Turn right hand portion
face up. Riffle shuffle the halves letting the face down card from left section fall last.

Telescope the cards into each other making a one card transfer from left section
into the right section as you set up for a Strip-Out. This Strip-Out can be the Simplex-
Strip Out, the Patented False Shuffle or any other type of Strip-Out.

Strip-Out the cards and both halves will have appearance of face down cards due
to the one card Transfer from loft section onto right portion. Immediately turn the left
hand portion face up.

Riffle Shuffle the cards letting a block of cards fall last from right hand section.
Telescope the cards into each other and go into the Patented Shuffle or any Strip-Out that
does not involve any Transfer.

Wait a few seconds, after apparently squaring up deck but really getting it in Strip-
Out condition. With right hand strip-out the cards placing them to the bottom of left hand
portion but end-jogged to the right. This action is of course a simulated cut

Right hand covers the jogged condition as deck is picked up, by the ends, and
transferred face down into left hand. Immediately right hand comes above deck to push
the jogged halves flush but not before the left 4th finger gets a break under the top
portion.

The selected cards are above the break. The left fingers Side-Steal or rather push
the selected card to the right for half its width. Ruffle front end of deck for effect and
ribbon spread the pack, from left to right, face down to show all cards one way. The

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previously jogged selection, which is face up, of course will not show. Thus the effect
involves only one climax at this stage.

Patter to the effect that you could probably pick out the spectators cards by sense
of touch as you move the spread about a little. This is all done to convince that each and
every card is face down.

State you have a quicker way. Scoop up deck. Ask for name of card. Ribbon
spread deck this time to reveal the selection face up. Push it out half way from the spread.

Scoop up deck and right the reversed card exactly where it is. All cards are now in
exactly the same order, from top down, as they were at the beginning. You can now be
practically assured of taking them in with a stacked deck. If you use the Stay-Stack you
can now go into your Faro-Shuffles and they will not be as suspect as if you started out
with them.

In the place where you ribbon spread both halves face down later they will assume
you did spread one face up. This subtlety will let you get away with the most obvious set-
ups; however, any time it is safe to ribbon spread one half face up then do this.

MARLO’S TRIUMPH
This involves real shuffles so to speak and yet one added Strip-Out at the right
moment keeps the colors separated. A still later cutting and shuffling will keep the colors
separated or you can actually separate the pack to split each color perfectly without
having to look.

The deck is preset with four Aces on top followed by all the black cards and then
the red cards.

Table the deck and with both thumbs do the Upward Ruffle in order to stop at
where the colors meet. With right hand undercut the bottom red cards to the right.

Ribbon spread the cards downwards in two long lines of face down cards. Square
up each half and turn the right hand portion face up.

Using the Closed Shuffle technique riffle the cards as follows: Rapidly release
about half of the cards in left portion. Immediately riffle off about half of the face up
cards. Now riffle off all but top four cards, Aces, in left section and follow by riffling off
the rest of the cards from right hand portion. The Aces are let fall on top.

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 The halves are riffled off quickly an the heels of each other so to speak to give a
fair illusion of a riffle shuffle. Telescope the cards into each other squaring up. The
condition of the deck is now as in Fig. 1.

With left hand cut off top half of cards up to the point where they meet face to
face. Place this portion to the left. Situation is now as in Fig. 2.

With both thumbs hit each packet lightly at same time lifting up. You will see that
each packet will break quite easily at back to back cards. Of course the fingers are at front
end just as if ready to do another riffle shuffle; however, both thumbs move downward in
order to grasp the face down packets and at same time hold a break between as in the Fig.
3 a performer's view.

The retained breaks now make it easy to quickly riffle shuffle the halves into each
other without worrying about weaving face down cards into face up cards. If you con do
the riffle, without too much hesitation as you near the center, then you can omit the
breaks.

At any rate the top Aces are let fall last again and the cards telescoped into each
other and squared. The result is now seen in Fig. 4 with four Aces on top, half the face up
cards, all red, and half the face down cards all black.

With left hand lift up top two cards, one at a time, as you say, "Some cards are
face down." Cut deeper into the face up cards as you say, "Some cards are face up." Cut
still deeper into the face down cards as you say, "Some cards are face down."

Now cut to where the cards meet back to back. Turn left hand palm up to display
bottom of this packet as you say, "And some cards are back to back.” Turn left hand palm
downwards again as at name time right hand turns its tabled packet face up. (Thumb digs
in and turns packet over away from performer. Immediately keep square not letting
packet spread.)

Both halves are now tabled and the appearance is of some cards face up and some
face down. The real situation is as in Fig. 5 with all cards face up except for the four
Aces. The black cards are face up on right and red cards face up, under face down Aces,
on the left.

Riffle Shuffle the halves into each other keeping the Aces on top Telescope the
cards into each other doing a Four Card Block Transfer and setting up for a Strip-Out.
This can be any type either the Simplex Strip-Out, the Patented Shuffle or the Standard
Strip-Out as long as it uses the Block Transfer, in this case the four Aces, The Strip-Out
keeps colors.

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 With right hand strip-out the cards and place these under the cards in left hand
portion in a simulated cut. This not only brings the Aces face up to the center but the
Aces are between the two color' i.e. red and black halves.

Ribbon Spread the deck face down to reveal only the four Aces face up. At this
point you can remove the Aces and reinsert them, face down, in among their proper color.
The red and black set-up can now be used secretly for a later effect or you can continue
with the…

FOLLOW UP
When you remove the Aces leave them face up on table but so that the two Black
Aces are on the left and the two Red Aces are on the right.

In removing the Aces you thumb off all the cards above the face up Aces and
plane these, in a lengthwise position, in front of yourself. These are all black cards
Distribute the Aces as per Step 1.

The remaining cards, in left hand, are all Red cards. Place these on top of the
tabled black cards but stepped to the left forming a jog of the lower portion on the right as
in Fig. 6.

The next "Cutting Sequence" will set up the pack, with required breaks or
separations, for the shuffle to follow. With cards as in Fig. 6 the left hand cuts off half of
the red section as in Fig. 7. Actually the right hand moves away from under the packet.

Right hand comes back and slaps its cards onto the tabled portion so that both red
sections, at this stage, are in line as in Fig. 8.

The right hand now pulls out the complete Black section but at the same time the
left fingers move the top Red section slightly to the left. The double action is shown in
Fig. 9.

When the Black section is removed completely the result is as shown in the Fig. 10
with the two half Red sections jogged.

Without hesitation the right hand slaps its portion onto the two Red sections with
the result as in Fig. 11 with Black half in line with bottom Red section.

With right, fingers and thumb pull out halt of the under portion of the Black
Section. This action is seen in Fig. 12.

After pulling out the under half of Black section the result is as in Fig. 13.

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 Immediately right hand places its Black section to top and flush with left end of
our jogged section. The result is as in Fig. 14.

As right hand completes the cutting both hands are around ends of deck hiding the
condition of the pack, Fig. 14, just before the 'split' for a shuffle, The 'Split' consists in
each hand holding onto its respective jogged sections so that when the deck is split the
left hand will have a Black and Red section with a break held between the section. The
right hand will also have the same situation. All is seen in Fig. 15 and the breaks are
automatic when cards are split.

The cards are now riffle shuffled as follows: Maintain the breaks and start the
shuffle normally; however, be sure that the Red cards from left portion fall last or onto
the Red cards in right hand portion. This stage is seen in Fig. 16.

Next release a block of cards from right hand black section. The Fig. 17 shows
conditions.

Rest of cards are now riffled off normally. Result, on examination is the condition
of deck as in Fig. 18.

Telescope the cards into each other and set-up for a Strip-Out. The location,
between the two colors, is made with tip of left third finger at outer left corner where you
will feel the space at this corner. Press down, with tip of left third finger, on those cards
directly below this space. These cards are held in place as right hand sort of milks off the
top half. The Fig. 19 shows the condition of deck's outer left corner. Note the space about
half way down.

With two halves in each hand turn both halves face up and ribbon spread them
downwards below the Aces of the respective colors showing all Black cards below the
Black Aces and Red cards below the Red Aces.

At times you may want to repeat the "Cutting Sequence" and Shuffle. In this case,
after locating with tip of left third finger at outer left corner, merely squeeze the cards
together and lift the top half, with left hand, moving it to the left thus at the same time
jogging it as already seen in Fig. 6. From here repeat all the actions of the "Cutting
Sequence" as per Figs. 7 to 15 inclusive, you are set to repeat the Shuffle.

The situation in Fig. 5 is being obtained thru a Strip-Out and Block Transfer of 4
cards; however, the same result can be obtained using a Zarrow Shuffle under cover of
the four top Aces. In this case you would directly get the packet of face up Red cards to
under top four cards. From this point you complete the effect as already outlined.

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 The next effect does not maintain any order to the cards but is an interesting
variation of the Triumph effect.

TOPSY-TURVY ACE CONTROL

Effect: Cards shuffled by spectator and performer shows them well mixed.
Cardician further shuffles the pack and also mixes them face up and face down. Operator
now cuts to four Aces one at a time. For the climax the Topsy-Turvy pack is shown all
one way.

Method: Cards shuffled by spectator. Deck is taken by performer and spread face
up between the hands, to show cards well mixed. During this time you "cull" the four
Aces. The simplest method is to run thru deck till you come to first Ace. Now in jog all
the cards that are in front of this Ace plus the Ace. The next three Aces are in-jogged in
line with this injogged block of cards. The deck would then look like the Fig. 20 after it is
tabled for the first shuffle.

Strip out the jogged cards and either cut to top or riffle shuffle; letting the four
Aces fall on top. In the next two shuffles work one X card between the four Aces and one
X card on top of the Aces. The setup, from top down, is X card- two Aces - X card - Two
Aces.

Undercut, with right hand, about 20 cards to the right and turn those face up. Next
you apparently shuffle the face up cards into the face down cards. Actually you must get
the result pictured in Fig. 21 with the top six cards, the set-up of Aces, face down over
the face up cards.

The situation of Fig. 21 can be arrived at by (A) Strip-Out Shuffle - (With Block
Transfer) (B) Patented False Shuffle (C) Simplex - Strip-Out (With Block Transfer in
each case) (D) The Zarrow Shuffle - (Using top six cards as cover for the unweaving of
the cards) (E) Marlo's Triumph Shuffle. (In this case doing the shuffle twice of course.)

With the situation as in Fig. 21, undercut the face down lower section to the left at
same time turning only this half face up.

Here you repeat the shuffle but using a Faro Table Riffle Shuffle to thus alternate
the six face down Ace set-up. This shuffle should end with face up cards on top. The
situation now is perhaps 3 or 4 face up cards followed by the Ace set up of 6 cards
alternated the rest of deck is all face up.

Here pick up the deck to actually show the deck as having cards face up and face
down; however, this run is made only for the six face-down cards and in re-squaring deck

111
you get a break one card below the last face down card. Cut at break dropping this
portion to table followed by the remaining half.

Turn deck over and a face down card is on top. This is followed by the alternated
set-up. You now do a Slip Cut to cut an Ace face up to top. Patter is "If I were to cut an
Ace in this mixed up mess you perhaps would call that luck." Toss the face up Ace to one
side.

Continue by saying "If I cut to another Ace…" Do another Slip Cut to get second
Ace to top, "You may think the cards are not shuffled enough so I will shuffle them some
more - face up and face down".

Here second Ace has been tossed aside and you do the following shuffles:

(A) Get break under top card with left thumb. Undercut half of deck to top and
immediately separate deck at break, which has been maintained, so that face up card now
shows on the right portion of deck and the left hand portion has a face down card.

(B) Shuffle the halves together being sure the face up card plus a block, to keep
setup, lands last or on top in the shuffle, Again get break, with left thumb, on top face-up
card. Under cut half the deck to top maintaining break between the halves. Split deck at
break, taking top half to right, and immediately turn both halves forward and over. This
results in a face down card showing on right hand portion and face up card on left hand
portion.
(C) Shuffle so as to release a block of the bottom cards of right hand portion to
retain set-up but the face down card falls last on top in the shuffle. Now turn deck over
again.
(D) Here repeat the Slip Cuts to get the other two Aces. This completes the Ace
location sequence.

At this stage you say, "The rest of deck is still in a mess so I'll give it a couple of
magical shuffles." Here your deck has a top card face down, under this a face-up card; the
rest of the deck is face down except for the bottom card, which is face up.

Get break, with left thumb, under top card. Undercut, with right hand, half of deck
to top and immediately split deck, at the break, with right hand taking bottom portion,
cards below the break, to the right. This leaves a card face up on right hand portion. The
original top card is now on bottom of left hand portion covering the other reversed X
card.

Shuffle to that face up card ends on top but also retain the other reversed card
second from bottom. Now turn dock over and do a Slip Cut Split of deck to thus carry the

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half, with face down card, to the right. Again, shuffle to retain face down card on top and
the other reversed card at the bottom.

Get break, with left thumb, under the top face down card. Undercut half the deck
to top retaining the break. Split deck at break taking lower half to right with right hand.
Left hand portion has the two reversed cards on the bottom.

Here shuffle by first releasing the two reversed cards then some cards from right
hand portion and rest is a normal shuffle but do not push in or square. Instead tilt cards
forward leaving the two reversed cards in position for the Table Shuffle Reverse (Marlo
Technique or as per Vernon in Inner Secrets.) Spread deck face down to show cards are
now all one way.

Note - The set up in Fig. 21 can he had by starting off with set-up of Aces on
bottom and then doing a Slop Shuffle and ending with the Faro as the set-up will of
course become the top six cards of the back to back halves; however, this procedure has
no class and I do not recommend it if you care to retain your stature as an expert card
man.

STACKING DEMO
Effect: Performer demonstrates how he can stack a pair of Aces first into 5 hands -
then 6 - then 7 then 8 - then 9 and finally 10 hands. For the climax he gets two additional
Aces!

Method: Ask spectator which color Aces he prefers. Assume he says, "Red.” In
removing the two Red Aces get the Black Aces, secretly, one to top and one to bottom.

Place the two Red Aces on top. During the stacks you must keep the black Aces in
their positions, i.e. one at bottom and the other directly below the second Ace from top.

You are now set to demonstrate how you can stack a pair for any number of hands
up to Ten. In dealing off the cards, to the Aces, they are dealt to the right in a packet. The
Ace is then turned face up and forward on table.

The dealing action must conform to the type of Second Deal you would normally
use. This is to get the spectators used to the manner of dealing. In each case the dealt oft
packet must be returned to the center of deck. The two Aces are then replaced on top of
deck for the next, higher in number of hands, stack. These are the primary rules and now
the stacks themselves starting with -

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 FIVE-HAND STACK
Two Aces on top. Cut off top halt to the right. Riffle Shuffle holding back four
cards on left and few cards on right. Release all but two cards, the Aces, from under right
thumb. This action is important to control that Ace which is third from top.

Release one Ace from under right thumb followed by letting the four cards from
left hand fall onto this Ace. Last Ace falls on top. Square up the deck.

Cut top half to right. Riffle Shuffle this time holding a fairly large block on right
hand section but only four cards in left hand portion. Again holding the large block on the
right becomes more important as the number of hands increases.

Release the large block, from right thumb followed by letting the four cards from
left hand fall on top, Square up the deck.

Deal down, to the right, the top four cards face down in a packet then turn the 5th
card, the Ace, face up and forward to table, Repeat , for second Ace.

The two other Aces at this stage are again at top and bottom. Scoop up the 'dealt
cards' and insert these back into center of deck. Replace the face up Aces face down to
top of deck. Say, "Now Six Hands."

SIX HANDS
Here you make use of the "Release" of cards which are held back by left thumb as
right hand cuts its top section to the right. The "Release" can be only one card in this case
and two cards in the 7 Hands deal then three cards in the 8 Hands deal then four cards in
the 9 Hands deal and five cards in the 10 Hands deal.

You can also add the "Preliminary Riffle" to thus get a "Double Break" on cards
which may have been "Released" and then more added during the "Preliminary Riffle".
For example you could "Release" 3 cards - Get an additional 3 cards during the
"Preliminary Riffle" and then the final 3, for a total of nine cards, during the actual riffle
shuffle.

Assuming you understand, by now, about being sure not to mix what has already
been stacked as well as keeping everything else, like the top and bottom Aces, under
control you should have no trouble understanding the formulas for Six Hands up to Ten
Hands.

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 Formula Six Hands - Before taking off top half 'Release' one card which is held by
left thumb. Riffle Shuffle holding back an additional four cards for a total of 5. These 5
cards are let fall onto one of the Aces and the remaining Ace goes back on top.

Repeat the above release and hold of one card - riffle shuffle holding back four
more for a total of 5 cards on left section. Let this fall onto last Ace. Deal off five cards to
the right turning up the Ace at 6th position.

Repeat, return packet to center of deck. Return two face up Aces onto deck. Say
"Seven Hands."

Formula Seven Hands - 'Release' two cards, which are held back by left thumb as
right hand takes top half to right. Riffle Shuffle holding back an additional four cards
with left thumb for a total of 6 cards. Let these fall onto the Ace The top Ace goes to top.
Repeat the above release of two cards and holding of an additional four cards for a total
of 6 cards which are let fall onto last Ace during the riffle shuffle, Aces now set every 7th
card. Handle the deal, as already explained, to show two Aces every 7th card. Replace
dealt packet to center of deck Two Aces back on top of deck. Say "Now Eight Hands."

Formula Eight Hands - Before cutting off top half 'Release' three cards which are
held back by left thumb as right hand takes top half to the right. Riffle shuffle holding
back an additional four cards with left thumb for a total of 7 cards. Let these fall onto one
of the Aces and other Ace goes back to top Repeat the Release of three cards, cut to right,
riffle shuffle holding back an additional four for another 7 card total. Let these fall onto
last Ace. Deal off accordingly turning up the 8th cards to show Aces. Replace dealt
packet in center of deck. Place Aces on top. Say, "How about Nine Hands?"

Formula Nine Hands - This time release four cards before cutting top half to
right. Riffle Shuffle, maintaining break or the released four cards with left thumb as
always, and then hold back an additional four cards, with left thumb, for a total of 8
cards. These two blocks of four or 8 cards are let fall onto one Ace. Other Ace still on
top.

Repeat the Release of four cards and cut off top halt to right. Hold back additional
four cards as before for a total of 8 cards. Let these fall on top of last Ace. Square up
deck. Deal off top 8 cards to right turning 9th card, the Ace, face up in front of performer.
Repeat the deal to show second Ace is also 9th. Replace dealt packet to center of deck,
Aces back to top. Now say: "Let's try the rough one. Let's try Ten Hands."

Formula Ten Hands - The above patter line should give you enough time to first
'Release' five cards and hold the break with left thumb as right hand cuts off top half to
right. Riffle shuffle, maintaining break of course on the five cards in left hand portion,
then hold back an additional four cards, with left thumb, for a total of 9 cards, Let these

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fall onto one of the Aces. Square up deck and again 'Release' five cards under which left
thumb holds a break as right hand cuts off top half to right. Riffle Shuffle holding back an
additional four cards for another total of 9 and let these fall onto last Ace. Deal out 9
cards, in a face down packet, to the right turning up Ace on Ten and deal it face up to
table. Repeat the deal for second Ace.

At this point you start to deal Seconds for nine counts and on the tenth you turn up
the 'reserved' Ace. Deal off the top for the next nine counts and on the tenth deal from
bottom turning the fourth Ace face up in the process. This comes as a complete surprise
after the Stack Demonstration.

The student familiar with the system of stacking will have no trouble in keeping all
Aces under proper control, especially those being held in reserve.

It you have good eyes and can spot when you are holding back more than four or
more than five or more than six then the 'Releases' can of course be cut down. Thus if you
are sure when "holding" back say six cards then you need "release" no more than three
cards at any time in order to do the 5 to 10 Hands Stack.

Again using a combination of "Releasing" and "Preliminary Riffle" you again need
not "release" more than three cards at any time. Thus if you "release" three then pick up
three more in the "preliminary riffle" and "hold" back an additional three during the riffle
shuffle you will have the total of 9 cards required for the Ten hand deal.

A good idea is to employ a "Slip Cut" to hold back one of the two Aces on the left
hand section. In this way you need only to concentrate on getting the required amount of
cards in left hand portion. The right hand portion need only to always just let go of a
large enough block in order that the 'reserved' Ace is not shuffled in or later that the one
Ace already stacked is not disturbed in the second shuffle.

A very fast demonstration of stacking a pair can be given if the number of hands is
not previously mentioned. Briefly it consists in 'sense of touch' rather than sight although
it does play a small part.

Start by placing the 2 Aces face up on top of deck. Right hand cuts top portion to
right but a 'Slip Cut' is made holding back top Ace on left hand portion. Also left thumb
holds a break beneath this Ace.

Riffle very quickly and by sense of touch try to feel just about the amount of cards
that were for the moment held back and then let fall onto first Ace. Try to retain the 'feel'
of this amount or block. Square up.

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 Cut off top half to right and again riffle very quickly and try to estimate the same
amount as before and let this fall onto last Ace.

Deal off the cards, counting them, till you reach the first face up Ace, toss this
aside. Now the second Ace should be at this name number. Thus you have given a
demonstration of very fast stacking but under your own terms.

If you are told to do it face down for a definite number of hands you can still
manage it thru the use of the previously explained 'releases' and 'holding'. You can easily
get the time, as you ask "How many hands," to 'release' the required cards. On the second
time a remark like, "You did say (here the number of hands is mentioned)" will give you
ample time to repeat your actions. For hands 7 and under you should do it as rapidly as if
no release was needed. Keep in mind that a 'release' of one or two cards even for a 5
handed stack will make such stacks easy and very fast even in the darkest rooms. In other
words you could do them blindfolded.

POWER POKER #1
In effect the performer removes a deck of cards from the case and shuffles it. Next
he turns the pack face up and removes the four Aces. These are placed on top of the pack
and the deck is now riffle shuffled with the obvious purpose of stacking the four Aces.

The deck is dealt into five hands of five cards each. The top card of each hand is
used to scoop up the respective hands which are squared and turned face up. It is seen
that an 8 spot is the face card of the first-second-third-4th hands. The fifth hand has an
indifferent card at its face.

The performer points to the 8 spots and says, "Those are the four Eightses." This is
a play on words of course. He continues, "But these are the four Aces.” With this he
spreads the fifth hand to show the four Aces.

Next, he remarks that while four Aces are undoubtedly a good hand it would not
get very much money in a game unless the other players had something worthwhile to bet
with also. So he says, "I have taken the precaution of giving each of the other players a so
called sucker hand.”

With this he spreads the remaining four hands and shows that the first hand has
four Tens, the second hand has the four Jacks, the third hand has the four Queens and the
4th hand has the four Kings.

While there are several methods of shuffling with which this can be accomplished,
such as the Patented False Shuffle, The Zarrow Shuffle or any other type of riffle shuffle
using a Block Transfer, the description to follow will use the Simplex Strip-Out Shuffle

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with Block Transfer. It is of course required to present the pack and the setup will be
given first.

Set-up: Remove the four 8s-1Os-Jacks-Queens and Kings. For the time being
place the four 8s aside. Arrange the remaining cards into four groups consisting of the 10-
J-Q-K from top down. These 16 cards are placed on top of deck. Also note the top card, a
Ten, for its suit and value. Assume it is the Ten of Spades. Actually it is best to always
use the same Ten spot as the top card of the stack'

Next cut about Ten cards from the bottom to top of deck. On top of deck place the
four 8s. Crimp the bottom card of the deck.

The Aces should have been out of the deck during this setting up. These Aces are
now distributed thru different parts of the deck.

To re-check the set-up you should have four 8s on top of deck - next about Ten X
cards, a key card, such as the 10s, starting the 16 card stack consisting of 10-J-Q-K in
every four card set. The bottom card of deck is crimped, Place the deck into the card case
till needed for performance.

Method: Remove pack from case and give it a couple of False Riffle Shuffles,
These can be any type you feel sure of but at the same time make sure your prospective
spectator is not so sharp that he spots this opening as a false shuffle.

For fast company either omit the opening shuffle or have deck preset, with a
Reverse Faro, so that one Faro Shuffle will give you the required set-up. The use of the
Faro, among card men, has become almost a habit, in apparently breaking in a deck or
merely to check on future possible Faros that you may want to do, that the Faro Shuffle
will here pass as legitimate especially since later you do use the Riffle Shuffle anyway.

Regardless of how you decide to open, the pack is turned face up so that even your
spectator can see the faces. In a normal speed run over faces of deck and up jog each Ace
as you-come to it or merely toss it out onto table as each Ace is found. The spectator will
never spot the set-up and only be careful not to let the top four 8s be seen. Note - if you
are worried about bottom crimped card being spotted here then put in the crimp after
removing the Aces.

Place the deck face down on the table in regular table Riffle position. The four
Aces are placed face down on top of deck.

With both hands do the Two Thumbs Upward Riffle to spot the key 10s and then
right hand cuts above this carrying top portion to the right. (Note - If you wish you can
use a crimp above the 16 card stock. This way you need only cut at crimp. Later this

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crimp will become bottom card of deck anyway.) The left hand portion has the 16 card
stock on top.

Start a regular Riffle Shuffle for Stacking. The left hand holds back four cards in
its half while the right hand holds back three cards in its half.

At this stage the left thumb and second finger move in, its four cards to under the
three cards held back in right hand half. The picture, at this stage, would be as shown in
the Fig. 22. Note how rest of deck is shuffled normally except for the four cards being
Block Transferred by left fingers, to under those held back by right thumb.

Telescope the cards into each other setting up for a Strip-Out with a Block
Transfer. The Fig. 23 shows it set up for a Simplex Strip-Out with Block Transfer.

Strip-Out the cards for another shuffle. At this point one Ace is stacked, in right
hand portion, with the 1O-J-Q-K above it. The left hand portion has twelve cards of three
groups of four i.e. 10-J-Q-K.

Riffle shuffle this time right hand holds back only two Aces but left thumb again
holds back four cards. The left fingers do the Block Transfer move to the right. The
situation is similar to Fig. 22 except fewer cards, on the right, are involved.

Telescope the cards into each other setting up for a Strip-Out with the Block
Transfer.

Strip-Out the cards. The right hand portion now has two Aces every 5th card with
a 1O-J-Q-K above each. The left hand portion has eight cards remaining of the original
stock.

Riffle Shuffle again holding back four cards on the left portion but only one Ace
on the right.

Telescope cards into each other and again set-up for a Strip-Out with Block
Transfer.

Strip out the cards. Left portion has only four cards remaining on top, of the
original stock. Right hand portion has 3 Aces stacked with a 1O-J-Q-K over each.

Riffle shuffle holding back four cards on left portion and more on the right.

Telescope cards into each other setting up for a Strip-Out with Block Transfer.

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 Strip out the cards with right hand placing these under the card in left hand in a
simulated cut. This brings original bottom crimped card above the stacked Aces. All that
remains is to openly square the deck then cut at the crimp to bring it to the bottom. The
stacked Aces are followed by the four 8s.

Having stacked the Aces deal out the five hands of cards face down. Each hand
gets five cards of course. You will get the Aces while the first hand will get the Tens-
second hand the Jacks-third hand the Queens and 4th hand the Kings. The top card of
each hand, after the deal, will be an 8 spot but your hand will of course get an X card.
Finish the effect as outlined in the "Performance".

Instead of using the crimp you can substitute the Zarrow Shuffle for the last
shuffle as the top four cards will give the required cover. Thus the cut is eliminated also.

It you do the Zarrow Shuffle for all the shuffles then you must remember that the
unweaving is done under two blocks of cards, except in the last shuffle. In other words
assume you are starting the stack. The situation is similar to Fig. 22 but both left and right
fingers move their cards towards each other. Under cover of the two upper packets the
rest of the shuffled cards, below these, are unweaved. The Fig. 24 clearly shows what has
to transpire.

If you start with a crimp above the stock then after each Zarrow Shuffle you can
square up as the crimp will automatically go above the remaining cards of the stock. All
you do as cut at the crimp for each succeeding shuffle. At the finish this crimp can be
used to mark off a second set-up of cards in the event you may wish to repeat the effect.

If you use the Strip-Out then of course the next set would be on top after dealing
out the five hands of five cards each.

In the event you wish to use the Zarrow Shuffle but no crimp then use the
"Insurance" idea of angling the cards past the left thumb but up against left third finger,
as in the Patented Shuffle, This prevents top packet from going flush and the right hand
can sort of milk off the top half for the repeat of the shuffle, At any rate keep in mind that
only 25 cards are actually in use and the remaining 27 cards can be set-up for any other
effect because the whole portion remains intact during the previous demonstration.

TRANSITION POKER
Effect: The card man demonstrated a Riffle Shuffle Stack of the four Aces. He
deals out five hands until four cards are in his hand. The rent of deck is now distributed
among the other four hands. Turning over his hand he shows the four Aces. He takes each
Ace and uses it to scoop up each of the other four hands which are squared up with the
Ace at the face of each packet. He then states that while four Aces may be a good hand in

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Poker in Bridge something like these hands would be better. With this he spreads each
hand to show that they all are of one suit. What is even more astounding is the fact that
each hand is in the proper sequence of Ace to King!

Set-up: First I will describe the set-up required then later show how easy it is to reset for
a repeat of this. The setup, from top down, should be the four Sixes-Sevens-Eights. All
cards are in the same suit order of Clubs-Hearts-Spades-Diamonds. The 8D is crimped.
Below the crimped card are the following cards also in the same suit order. The four
Fives-Fours-Threes-Deuces. Then directly below this are the four Nines-Tens-Jacks-
Queens-Kings. The Aces at this stage arc out of the deck.

Place the four Aces on top of the deck and go into the Riffle Shuffle stack as described in
Power Poker #1.

Method: Deal out five hands until you have four cards in the fifth hand. Rest of deck is
now dealt out into only the four hands.

Turn over your fifth hand to show the Aces. The Ace of Clubs is used to scoop up
the first hand on the left. Square it up and turn packet face up. Repeat this with next Ace
of Hearts and second hand. The Ace of Spades is used to scoop up third hand while the
Ace of Diamonds is used to pick up the fourth hand.

Make the appropriate remarks as outlined in the effect. Now spread each hand in a
lengthwise ribbon spread to reveal the cards all of one suit each and in perfect order of
Ace to King.

I will now show how easy it is to reset the whole thing for a repeat later on if you
so wish.

Pick up the AD hand. Cut it so that the 5D becomes top card, In an Overhand
Shuffle run oft from face of packet, the 6-7-8 spot and throw rest of packet onto these,
Again, from face of packet, run off the 91O-Jack-Queen-King and then throw these back
onto face of packet

2. The AD packet is now arranged, from top down, in 6-7-8-5-4-3-2-A-9-1O-J-Q-

K order. The 8D is already crimped from the first time you did the effect.

Pick up the AS packet next and repeat the exact same cutting of the 5 spot to top.
Run three cards off face and throw packet onto them. Run off five cards from face and
then throw back onto face of packet. The AS packet is now in same order as the AD
packet. Drop this packet face down onto the AD packet.

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 Repeat this cutting and shuffling process with the AH packet and drop it onto the
other two assembled packets. Follow this same procedure with the AC packet placing it
onto the top of all. Thus the deck is assembled and then placed in the card case.

When ready to do the effect again remove the deck from case and give pack two
Faro Out Shuffles, Remove the four Aces, which will be together in center of deck,
tossing them face up onto the table. Rest of deck is now in the set-up required for the
effect.

If you prefer you can remove the Aces first and then go into the two Faro Out
Shuffles and the resulting set-up will be the same as needed. During the Faro Shuffles
you can say that it would be a simple matter to set the four Aces during such a shuffle but
you will do it in the classical and approved manner of the card cheat. Here place Aces on
top and go into the Riffle Shuffle Stack as per Power Poker #1 to get the results as
described in the Effect.

Most such pre-set effects fall into disuse because of it; however, by using a
presentation angle you can start the effect at any time. The idea is to get the spectators to
actually assist you. Suppose you take a shuffled deck and first take the precaution to
crimp the 8D.

Now distribute three of the suits to other spectators while you retain the Diamond
suit, Show the spectators how to arrange their cards from Ace to King so Ace becomes
the face card of the packet.

Next you tell them that you will cut and shuffle each packet. This you do and
actually get into the first step of the set-up. Now state you will shuffle the whole deck.
Here do two Faro Out Shuffles.

Remove the Aces and then go into the Riffle Shuffle Stack as per Power Poker.
Regardless of the fact that spectators knew you started with the cards in order the various
shuffles of each packet and then the two Farrow Shuffles, plus the addition of the Riffle
Shuffle, the end result will nevertheless still startle them. What is more important you
have not insulted their intelligence.

FLASH ACES
This effect has already been explained in the section dealing with the Bottom Slip
Cut; however, this method has certain advantages and ease of working. This version
permits of flashing the bottom cards of deck, as well as of each half, before the shuffle
and cut. The final result is four Aces, one at the bottom of each of four packets.

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 The arrangement on bottom of deck is, from face up, an X card, two Aces, X card
and two Aces.

The set-up is kept on bottom during a preliminary riffle shuffle.

Lift deck and tap it on its side with the race of the deck towards spectator. He sees
an indifferent card at bottom.

With right hand undercut bottom half to the right. Right thumb releases 3 cards
and then these are "Blocked Off" by a few cards, on top of them, from left hand portion.
Riffle Shuffle the rest in a normal manner.

Telescope the card" into each other setting up for a Strip-Out with a Bottom Block
Transfer of the 3 cards to under the left hand portion. Thus when you do the Strip-Out
you will have an X card and two Aces at bottom of left hand portion and the same in right
hand section.

After the Strip-Out place right hand section aside for the moment. Both hands now
again tilt the left hand portion on its side to expose the face of this half. Again spectators
see an indifferent card.

This time right hand undercuts half the packet to the right but the side of left 4th
finger holds back or Slip Cuts the bottom X card no that it stays with the left hand
section, The right hand section now has the two Aces.

Riffle shuffle letting one Ace fall first from under right thumb then Block these off
with some cards from left portion, Riffle shuffle in normal manner.

Telescope the cards into each other setting up for a Strip-Out with a One Card
Bottom Transfer. When you Strip-Out the cards each section will have an Ace at the
bottom. Leave these two portions of deck aside.

Pick up the remaining half and again flash the bottom card to show it is an
indifferent card.

From here repeat steps 7-8-9 to end up with an Ace on bottom of each portion.
Thus you now have four packets with an Ace at bottom of each. All that remains are to
turn them face up to disclose the Aces.

The above is quite startling due to the fact that at no time does an Ace show at
bottom of the portions as they are flashed.

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 POWER POKER #2
This is a very subtle procedure to arrive at basically the same effect as Power
Poker #1. The approach is such as to completely throw-off even the well versed in card
table artifice. Apparently you demonstrate how you can stack the Aces in two shuffles.
Having done so you offer to repeat; however, for the climax you show that the other four
hands each have four of a kind but of course not enough to beat your Aces, '

The Set-Up is simply 4 Ks-4 Qs-4 Js-4 10s. This set-up is placed below the top
dozen cards the bottom card of which is crimped. The Aces are distributed throughout the
pack. Here you can apply the suggestion outlined in Power Poker #1. Cards in case ready
for performance.

Remove deck from case. Remove Aces from deck tossing them face up to table as
you remark about showing them how to stack four Aces in just two shuffles.

Place Aces face down on top of deck. Cut deck at crimp, with right hand, carrying
top portion to the right. With left thumb do "Preliminary Riffle" to get break on four
cards which will be the Kings.

Start regular riffle shuffle, getting an additional four cards with left thumb, which
will be the Queens, while on your right hand side, you hold back three Aces. At this stage
the situation will be as in Fig. 25.

Onto the first Ace released you lower the block of 4 Queens. At the same time the
second Ace is fed to between the two blocks. Now the left hand moves its two blocks to
the right in readiness for a Double Block Transfer of the Kings and Queens as shown in
Fig. 26.

Telescope the cards into each other setting up for the Strip-Out with a Double
Block Transfer, The Fig. 27 shows the Simplex Strip-Out. (Of course you can use any
type such as the "Patented" or even the Zarrow by simply unweaving the shuffled cards
that are below these blocks.)

Strip the cards apart for another shuffle. The section on left still has the 4Js and 4
10s. The section on the right has two Aces still on top and 4 Kings over one Ace and 4
Queens over one Ace.

Repeat the "Preliminary Riffle" of getting a four card break, on the 4 Jacks with
left thumb. Riffle shuffle and hold back an additional four cards, the 4 Tens, with left
thumb. On the right side hold back two Aces.

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 Release one Ace. Now left fingers lower the 2 blocks and same time right hand
feeds its last Ace to between the two blocks of Jacks and Tens, as in Fig. 28, at same time
left fingers move the two blocks to the right.

Telescope the cards into each other and set-up for a Strip-Out with a Double Block
Transfer. The deck would be as in Fig. 27, if you were using Simplex Strip-out, except
now all four Aces are stacked with four Tens-4 Jacks-4 Queens-4 Kings over each Ace.

Here Strip-Out the cards, with right hand, placing them to bottom of left hand
portion in a simulated cut, however, the right hand jogs its portion to the right.

With a step, on right side, marking off the stacked section, all you need to do is
any Double Cut to bring it back to top.

With the stack back on top deal out five hands of only four cards each. Turn over
only your hand to show the four Aces you have just stacked.

The original crimped card is somewhere down in remainder of the deck or actually
the same number from the top as originally minus the four Aces. Thus it the crimp was
16th it now would be 12th from top in the remainder.

Cut off the cards up to and including the crimp. Drop this packet onto the first four
cards on the left. Pick up all the cards and drop these onto the second four cards. Scoop
up all cards dropping them onto third four card packet then all cards onto the fourth four
cards. Thus, all packets are assembled under a crimped card with same cards above it.
Drop these assembled packets onto the rest of deck.

You now have about a dozen cards on top of set-up which, because of the previous
deal, is in 10-JQ-K order for every four cards. This set-up is marked off by the crimped
card. Place the four Aces on top of deck as you offer to repeat the stack.

Here you repeat the exact and identical shuffle actions as before or as already
detailed in Steps Two to Eleven. Briefly - Cut to crimp, "Preliminary Riffle" on left to get
four cards. Riffle Shuffle holding back additional four.

Hold four Aces on right. Release Ace then block of 4 Ace. Block of four and two
Aces go on top again. Do Strip-out with Double Block Transfer and repeat the shuffle or
Preliminary Riffle to hold four cards on left - Riffle Shuffle holding additional four and
two Aces on right.

Release Ace block of four - Ace second block of four. Set-up for the Strip-Out
with Double Block Transfer. Strip Out and go into Double Cut to get stack back to top
ready for the deal.

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 This time deal out five hands of five cards each. Use top card of each packet to
scoop it up. Square up the packet and turn it face up. Repeat with each of the packets till
all five are face up with an indifferent card at face of packets.

Spread your hand to again show you got the Aces or have spectator try to guess
which hand has the Aces and eventually show it in your hand.

Comment about how four Aces, while a good hand, may not win much money if
the other players haven't a 'playing hand'. State, "So I took the trouble to give this man
four Tens - this-one four Jacks this one four Queens and this one the four Kings!"

As you mention each hand the cards are spread downwards to reveal each hand of
cards. If you prefer, you can spread the hands upwards or towards spectator. This is done
as spreading sideways may not give you enough room for a quick, clean disclosure of
each hand.

As you can see the four Tens-Jacks-Queens and Kings are together again thus you
can very easily do a repeat of the effect immediately at the next table or request. All you
need to do is gather them and place them under the dozen cards, with crimp, and the Aces
on top

Here again you will note that the remainder of deck can be stacked and it is not
disturbed. With a little thought the first deal can be made while demonstrating the Ace
stack with four shuffles. Then the second deal can be made as you demonstrate the stack
in two shuffles. The presentation perhaps is even more logical.

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