1 s2.0 S0959652622018029 Main

Journal of Cleaner Production 360 (2022) 132196
Contents lists available at ScienceDirect
Journal of Cleaner Production

journal homepage: www.elsevier.com/locate/jclepro
From fashion to farm: Green marketing innovation strategies in the

Brazilian organic cotton ecosystem
Larissa Oliveira Duarte a, *, Rosana Aparecida Vasques b, Homero Fonseca Filho a, Julia Baruque-
Ramos a, Davi Nakano c
a
School of Arts, Science and Humanities, University of Sao, Paulo, R. Arlindo Bettio, 1000, 03828-000, Sao Paulo, SP, Brazil
b
School of Architecture and Urbanism, Department of Project, University of Sao Paulo, Rua do Lago, 876, 05508-080, Sao Paulo, SP, Brazil
c
Polytechnic School, Department of Production Engineering, University of Sao Paulo, Av. Prof. Luciano Gualberto, 1388, 05508-010, Sao Paulo, SP, Brazil
A R T I C L E I N F O A B S T R A C T
Handling Editor: Cecilia Maria Villas Bôas de This study explores how green marketing innovations have been co-created by Brazilian organic cotton
Almeida ecosystem participants, in order to understand how they develop green marketing innovation strategies together.
Green marketing Organic cotton in Brazil shows how initiatives and programs that act above commercial interests could offer
Sustainable development
guidance and promote cohesion in the ecosystem. To discuss how collaborative achievements and green mar
Multi-stakeholders
keting strategies can impact innovation, a case study on the Brazilian organic cotton ecosystem was conducted.
Organic cotton clothing
Brazilian network Results showed that the evolution of organic cotton was based on the initiative of designers and branded pro
ducers, and on a network that includes Brazilian R&D institutions, international and Brazilian non-governmental
organisations (NGOs), smallholders’ associations, and the government. Their joint effort built the ecosystem and
led smallholders to adopt sustainable agroecological practices such as rainfed crops, soil nutrition, biodiversity
maintenance, and integrated fibre and food crop production. The outcomes of those initiatives are enhanced
production, expanding market opportunities, and better social and economic conditions for families in rural
areas. For the advance of knowledge about green marketing, this paper offers a perspective that includes a
marketing pillar and an ecosystem pillar.
1. Introduction manufacturers, yarn spinners, weaving and knitting mills, dyeing and
finishing factories, apparel manufacturers, and retailers (Garcia et al.,
Green marketing innovation allows a company to achieve both 2019). Traditionally, product development and marketing efforts follow
competitive advantages in its target market segment and penetration in a push approach, in which innovations on fabrics are brought to the
new ones (Johne and Davies, 2000; Halpern, 2010). In this context, it market by the early stages of the value chain (spinning and weaving),
can be a driver towards sustainable strategies, which allows cost savings which develop materials, patterns and colour palettes according to
and innovative processes (Kumar et al., 2012). Sustainability has been fashion trends, and promote them to designers and garment companies
connected to company survival, innovation capability, and the quality of (Franco, 2017). Thus, marketing and communication efforts on new
its products and services (Grewal and Tansuhaj, 2001), and green materials are performed mainly by weaving companies to designers and
marketing initiatives can leverage its benefits. garment producers.
Textile and clothing are among the most traditional and globally Cotton is the most consumed natural fibre in the textile industry
prevalent industries, accounting for a large share of employment (Baydar et al., 2015), making it an important crop that is cultivated in
worldwide (Gereffi and Frederick, 2010; Ozturk et al., 2016; Resta et al., more than 75 countries (Adanacioglu and Akin Olgun, 2010). However,
2016; Yang et al., 2017), only in Brazil, 1.5 million workers are dedi its production has been associated with soil degradation and fertility
cated to the activity (De Oliveira Neto et al., 2019). The textile industry decrease, water pollution, and health problems due to high agrochem
processes both natural and synthetic fibres, and it is organised in global ical levels applied (Caniato et al., 2012) and monoculture cropping
supply chains, comprising several actors such as fibre producers and systems (Glin et al., 2012). Thus, alternatives have been suggested to
* Corresponding author.
E-mail addresses: lduarte@alumni.usp.br (L. Oliveira Duarte), ravasques@gmail.com (R.A. Vasques), homeroff@usp.br (H. Fonseca Filho), jbaruque@usp.br
(J. Baruque-Ramos), dnnakano@usp.br (D. Nakano).
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2022.132196
Received 29 September 2021; Received in revised form 8 April 2022; Accepted 9 May 2022
Available online 13 May 2022
0959-6526/© 2022 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.
L. Oliveira Duarte et al. Journal of Cleaner Production 360 (2022) 132196
replace degrading practices with organic systems and agroecological innovation: (i) Upstream marketing flow, from designers and fashion
practices (Cusser et al., 2019), in which cotton is farmed without the use brands to producers, and (ii) ecosystem articulation for value co-
of synthetic chemicals and transgenic seeds (Rieple and Singh, 2010; creation. Third, this research exposes the dynamics and the plurality
Fayet and Vermeulen, 2014; La Rosa and Grammatikos, 2019). of processes performed by organic cotton actors and their partnerships
Furthermore, organic and fair-trade cotton production increasingly in Brazil. Fourth, it contributes to an agenda for future research on
plays an important role in bringing sustainable social development in marketing and ecosystems and the development of innovative methods
cotton-producing areas (Rota et al., 2018). for value co-creation.
However, organic cotton has not received the same attention from Results also stress the sustainable features of organic cotton in Brazil,
the established value chain, as its non-organic counterpart (Seuring and both from the environmental and social perspectives. For the environ
Muller, 2008; Chouinard and Brown, 1997). In Brazil, an important ment, the use of agroecological practices that regenerate the soil, and
cotton producer, ranking amongst the five largest apparel manufacturers enhance biodiversity, rainfed system, and crop consortia that allow
globally (Garcia et al., 2019), large farms are responsible for the bulk of diversification and food security. On the social side, cotton is produced
the production of conventional cotton. On the other hand, organic fibres together with vegetables that can be either consumed or sold to generate
are currently produced by smallholders and farmers’ cooperatives that income. Fair trade and contract-based transactions assure income for
are not part of the mainstream value chain, and thus, large spinning and smallholders and support the economic development of rural commu
weaving companies do not process or promote those fibres. Neverthe nities. It relies on a participatory organic certification system that en
less, growing consumer awareness and willingness to purchase sus courages smallholders to be part of associations and become technically
tainable clothing created a market pull for those fibres, which made autonomous. Finally, other socially sustainable aspects include small
some designers and branded producers start taking initiatives to develop holders’ empowerment, and female and youth participation. Organic
organic cotton garments (Fletcher, 2010; Ellis et al., 2012). Fulfilling cotton in Brazil can be related to the SDGs #2 Zero Hunger, #5 Gender
that demand has required an integrated effort from a network of diverse Equality, #12 Responsible Consumption and Production, #15 Life on
actors. Instead of the mainstream marketing strategy performed by large Land, and #17 Partnerships to achieve the Goal.
spinning and weaving companies, organic cotton in Brazil has been This paper is structured in five sections: section 2 explores the
co-created and marketed in a collaborative approach by a web of literature about green marketing innovations and the organic cotton
players, research institutes, certifying agencies, producer associations, context. Section 3 presents the research method and proposes a con
designers, local and international NGOs, governmental agencies and ceptual framework for analysing partnerships towards green innovation.
more, which has made it possible to bring the fibre to the final consumer. Section 4 presents the case of the organic cotton ecosystem in Brazil, its
While knowledge about large-scale cotton production is well- main actors, and their relations. Finally, section 5 concludes the paper
established, there is still room for studies on organic/agroecological and indicates further studies.
cotton, especially on marketing initiatives, as its demand tends to in
crease, following the trend towards more sustainable production and 2. Theoretical background
consumption (Barros et al., 2020). Organic cotton in Brazil is related to
engaging multiple actors in co-creation strategies that not only cater to 2.1. Green marketing innovations and ecosystem insights
the market but also looks towards social inclusion, innovation, and ag
roecological practices, and understanding partnerships and alliances is Once a market niche, environmentally conscious, or green, con
fundamental to effective value co-creation strategies. Previous studies sumers, have become numerous and a valuable segment to many com
on green marketing applied a static perspective on actor relationships panies (Han, 2018). They consider whether a product brings a positive
and communication efforts and focused either on green marketing in or negative ecological impact (Noonan and Coleman, 2013), and they
novations or sustainable development (Fiore et al., 2018; Dangelico and make purchase decisions based on ethical and environmental factors
Vocalelli, 2017; Gorening et al., 2018), without an integrated perspec (Fiore et al., 2017). Those consumers increasingly prefer to purchase
tive on those research streams. Therefore, the purpose of this paper is to toxin-free products and with minimal environmental impact (Sarkar,
reveal how collaborative marketing efforts have been implemented to 2012; Mishra and Sharma, 2014). Green consumers’ behaviour is not
bring Brazilian organic cotton to the market. based on a simple cost and benefit assessment, they strive to take into
Although the interest in organic cotton production has been account how their actions affect the whole society (Osaki, 2011). They
increasing every year, production still faces difficulties to articulate with have to consider multiple and sometimes competing decision-making
the textile and clothing industry, information and action are frag factors, from the product’s price and functional features to the pro
mented, which could bring confusion to suppliers, brands, and cus ducer’s reputation, its moral, social, and ethical responsibility, and the
tomers. Organic cotton in Brazil shows initiatives and programs that act environmental and social impact of the product (Tong and Su, 2018).
above commercial interests, and could offer guidance and promote Organisations are increasingly focused on developing green strate
cohesion in the ecosystem. In this regard, research institutions can be gies (Cronin et al., 2011). Marketing is crucial to foster both cleaner
fundamental in the development of new production arrangements. production and sustainable consumption; it can play a key role in the
Furthermore, local and international NGOs can open up spaces for value creation of a green market, by promoting the benefits of sustainable
sharing and information exchange and fund agroecological projects, products and services (Rex and Baumann, 2007; Garg and Sharma,
supporting ecosystem consolidation. Also branded producers and re 2017). Furthermore, it can strengthen customer interest and loyalty
tailers can have a crucial role to play, as they can pull the industry to (Shen, 2014), build long-term relationships with stakeholders, and help
become more sustainable by demanding more sustainable cotton prod to create environmentally responsible behaviour (Moravcikova et al.,
ucts and informing customers about their environmental impact. 2017; Chen and Yang, 2019).
We aim to contribute to the discussion on how partnerships for The green marketing concept can be traced to the late 1980s (Peattie
innovation can drive green marketing strategies by applying ecosystem and Crane, 2005). Polonsky (1994) defines green marketing as all ac
mapping to understand actors’ relationships and roles. We conducted tivities designed to generate and facilitate exchanges intended to satisfy
field research and document analysis to describe and analyse the organic human needs and desires, with minimum detrimental impact on the
cotton production in Brazil, highlighting the challenges and perspectives natural environment. Scholars have proposed various definitions of
for regenerative fashion. Novelty established throughout the article can green marketing, including: (1) the holistic process to attend customers’
be compiled as follows. First, it illuminates aspects of marketing infor demands and society’s environmental requirements sustainably and
mation flow, bringing a more holistic understanding that can support profitably (Peattie and Charter, 1992); (2) the effort to design, promote,
innovation. Second, it suggests two pillars for green marketing price and distribute products in an environment-friendly manner (Pride
2
and Ferrell, 1993); and (3) the processes and activities to market green The growth of the organic cotton market started in the 1970s and
products and services (Shil, 2012; Groening et al., 2018). 1980s and has been supported by increasing consumer awareness of its
Green marketing impacts the core of the business strategy. Strategic benefits (Tregear et al., 1994). Organic farming techniques make land
greening requires change in corporate mindset and behaviour (Polonsky easier to plough and increase water infiltration and retention, helping
and Rosenberger III, 2001), it affects strategic policies towards the crops better endure dry periods (Rieple and Singh, 2010) by improving
environment and the related operational practices (Ginsberg and Bloom, soil biological fertility and making it more resilient. The use of cover
2004; Papadas et al., 2017). It is related to introducing sustainability crops, organic matter, and animal manure, for instance, reduce water
into the organisation’s culture, and cultivating employees’ sustainable erosion and improves soil’s structure, giving it porosity and the ability to
values (Lee et al., 2001). When green initiatives become part of the effectively filter water during heavy rain periods and retain moisture
corporate culture, it provides opportunities for superior performance during droughts (Willians et al., 2017). Additionally, crop rotation and
that yield cost reduction and increase profits (Bansal and Roth, 2000; diversification stimulate agrobiodiversity, which is essential to improve
Papadas et al., 2019). Green marketing initiatives such as partnerships nutrient cycling, as well as natural pest and disease control (Scialabba
and collaborative efforts with key stakeholders can not only bring more and Hattam, 2002). Organic farming also positively impacts producers’
sustainable production but also lead to cost-effectiveness (Papadas et al., livelihoods, as it reduces health risks (Glin et al., 2012; Beltrao, 2009),
2019). and it is associated with transparent market information, traceability,
Pressure from communities, the media, NGOs, environmental and fair trade (Adanacioglu and Olgun, 2010; Nelson et al., 2018).
groups, labour unions consumers’ behaviour can also drive organisa Currently, organic cotton still represents a very small part of global
tions towards sustainable practices (Lee and Klassen, 2008). Previous cotton production. However, despite the Covid-19 pandemic, 2019/20
studies have suggested stakeholder relationships are among the main witnessed the largest global harvest of organic cotton fibre to date
components of strategies for sustainability (Matos and Silvestre, 2013). (Textile Exchange, 2021): 249,153 tonnes of organic cotton fibre were
Also, long-term alliances between for-profit and non-profit organisa produced in 21 countries. Compared to the previous year, there was a
tions represent an opportunity for firms to increase their green and 3% rise in producers, a 4% growth in fibre volume, and a 41% increase
innovative efforts (Berger et al., 2006; Cronin et al., 2011). in land area. The main producers are India, China, Kyrgyzstan, Turkey,
According to Gulati (1998, p. 293), strategic alliances are “voluntary and Tanzania (Textile Exchange, 2021).
arrangements between firms involving exchange, sharing, or co-
development of products, technologies, or services”. Repeated alli 2.3. Organic cotton in Brazil
ances with the same partners enable incentive alignment, provide
monitoring rights, and formal control establishment (Zollo et al., 2002; Brazil is one of the largest cotton producers in the world, the fourth
Bingham and Eisenhardt, 2011). Alliances can support social innovation in 2018. Most of its production is in the country’s central plains (the
capabilities, including new market development and novel approaches Cerrado biome), applying monoculture farming and intensive mecha
for cost reduction (Roscoe et al., 2016). Also, networks can be important nisation in large properties, that yield high productivity (Freire, 2015).
sources of information, in which the participants’ identity the pattern of Although the majority of Brazilian producers are certified by the Better
relations are relevant (Gulati, 1998). Thus, dense networks result in Cotton Initiative, an international organisation that promotes environ
efficient communication and enhanced diffusion of norms (Meyer and mentally friendly production and decent work, they still use large
Rowan, 1977). amounts of agrochemicals. Organic cotton, in turn, is produced by
An ecosystem perspective can be helpful to develop collaborative smallholders, who apply agroecological practices in the Northeast re
efforts, as it describes organic constellations of organisational partici gion (Ceará, Paraíba, Rio Grande do Norte, Pernambuco, Piauí, Sergipe
pants (actors) that can collectively cocreate systemic outputs (Adner, and Alagoas states). Approximately half of the region is a semi-arid
2017; Autio and Thomas, 2021). Ecosystems have coordination mech climate area, a historically underdeveloped part of the country.
anisms that rely on role definition, complementarity and technological, The Northeast region was the main cotton producer until 1930 when
economic and cognitive alignment structures that strike a balance be new annual cycle varieties were introduced and Sao Paulo State (in the
tween change and stability (Adner, 2017; Jacobides et al., 2018; Autio Southeast region) emerged as a major producer and exporter of cotton
and Thomas, 2021). fibres. The quality of Brazilian cotton cultivars was improved mainly by
Collaborative processes and activities can create value for ecosystem the Agronomic Institute of Campinas (Instituto Agronômico de Campi
actors (Ritala et al., 2013), including suppliers, component producers, nas, IAC), located in Sao Paulo state, and the Brazilian Centre of Cotton
developers, technology suppliers, support organisations and customers Research (Centro Nacional de Pesquisa de Algodão – Embrapa Cotton),
(Dedehayir et al., 2018). They can enhance or detract a brand as they the branch of the Brazilian R&D organisation EMBRAPA (Empresa
build brand-centred networks and brand communities and partnerships Brasileira de Pesquisa Agropecuaria – Brazilian Company of Farming
(Kotler et al., 2006). Research) established in Paraiba. However, in the 1980s, economic
instability, shortage of rural credit, and the dissemination of the boll
2.2. Organic cotton in the world weevil plague (Anthonomus grandis Bohm.) severely affected producers
(Barros et al., 2020).
Cotton is a plant-based, biodegradable and renewable material, with Cotton production then migrated to the Brazilian Central region,
many positive features such as versatility, comfort, colour retention, where topography and climate were adequate for large-scale, highly
absorbency, strength, and durability (Egbuta et al., 2017). Farmers grow mechanised farm operations (Kiawu et al., 2011). It was only in the
and harvest the lint fibre from the plant bolls, which is then processed in 1990s after Embrapa Cotton developed early maturing cultivars, more
cotton gins, and sold to spinners, who produce yarns (Rota et al., 2018). capable to avoid insect infestation peaks, and farmers adopted practices
Textile manufacturers knit or weave yarns into fabrics, that are then to minimise insect damage, that cotton farming returned to the North
dyed, finished, and manufactured into end products such as garments east region. Additionally, Embrapa developed a natural-coloured fibre
and home textiles (Desore and Narula, 2018). Conventional cotton and launched a program to disseminate its production in the semiarid
production requires intensive use of water and pesticides, fertilisers, region, not only training smallholders in organic/agroecological
growth regulators, hormones, and herbicides, among others (Bevilacqua farming techniques but also promoting the new fibre to buyers as an
et al., 2014; Zulfiqar et al., 2017). As an alternative with less environ eco-friendly and cost-efficient alternative. In Paraíba state, where the
mental impact, organic cotton is produced without the use of synthetic program started, natural coloured cotton is grown in shades of beige,
chemicals and transgenic seeds, following organic cotton standards brown and green, in rural settlements that apply agroecological tech
(Fayet and Vermeulen, 2014). niques (Barros et al., 2020).
3
Agroecological cotton in Brazil is cultivated in consortium with other events’ holistic and meaningful characteristics (Yin, 2014). It was con
food crops, in small family-owned, non-irrigated properties, applying ducted from an exploratory perspective, to clarify actors’ perception of
regenerative agriculture practices that seek to maintain and replenish the market, and the co-created processes that resulted in green mar
soil fertility and protect the environment (Rhodes, 2017; Altieri et al., keting innovations. Interviews, observations and document analysis
2017). It is produced using crop rotation, which improves the soil and were used to describe and analyse the perceptions of key actors
helps pest control (Lakhal et al., 2008). It also applies a conservation participating in the organic cotton ecosystem (Kruger et al., 2018).
tillage system and crop diversification, and a crop-livestock-tree inte First, desk research was conducted to get a general vision and to
grated system to optimise nutrient cycling (Piao et al., 2021). Those identify the main actors in the Brazilian organic cotton ecosystem. A
practices improve soil functionality, protect and restore biodiversity, literature review on green marketing innovation and ecosystems was
enhance farmed livestock productivity, supporting livelihood on farms also conducted to develop an initial framework, connecting marketing
(Oliveira Duarte et al., 2021). Organic cotton production is growing in and ecosystem concepts. The framework (Fig. 1) summarises the rela
the country, fibre volume grew by 38%, and land area, a whopping tion between marketing elements and the ecosystem actors. In the outer
496%, between 2018/2019 and 2019/2020 (Textile Exchange, 2021). layer, the actors are classified according to the four-helix model:
However, decreasing the environmental impacts of textile produc academia, government, private sector, and communities or civil society
tion and consumption depends also on consumers’ choices (Allwood (Tedesco and Serrano, 2019). The second layer highlights their alli
et al., 2008; Chan and Wong, 2012). Therefore, information is needed to ances, their HR, segmentation and positioning strategies, and the
raise awareness about sustainability, to inform on available environ existing policies. In the third layer, the actors’ marketing actions, are
mental, social and ethical solutions, and to advertise product certifica organised in the well-known 4Ps model: product/service, price, place,
tion (Villa Todeschini et al., 2017). Information on product labels, direct and promotion. Value co-creation, depicted at the framework core, is the
consumer contact and communication campaigns can improve con result of the interplay of all those elements.
sumers’ knowledge and organic cotton demand (Oh and Abraham, A field study based on semi-structured interviews with the principal
2016). Those actions can ultimately create brand differentiation and actors of organic cotton in Brazil (Table 1), and technical visits and
positioning (Matthews and Rothenberg, 2017). observations (Table 2) was conducted by one of the authors. Also,
archival material and market reports were consulted to improve
3. Research method research completeness; and some informal follow-up interviews were
performed to clarify the remaining issues. Primary and secondary data
3.1. Data collection from multiple sources were used to allow information cross-checking
and avoid possible biases, to enhance credibility and reliability.
To uncover alliance-based green marketing strategies for innovation The field study took place between September 2019 and September
requires understanding actors’ positions, their relationships, and the 2020 in the cities of Joao Pessoa and Campina Grande and surrounding
material and information flows that are established between them. rural areas. Joao Pessoa is the capital city of the state of Paraiba, and
However, there is a lack of research on green marketing innovations Campina Grande is a historically important cotton-producing area in the
from a system-level view. Therefore, this study performed a case study same state, where the Cotton research unit of the Brazilian Company of
on organic cotton production in Brazil to understand its ecosystem and Farming Research (EMBRAPA Cotton) is based. Also, designers, fashion
related implications. The case study method allows to retain real-life brands, and institutions located in Sao Paulo were interviewed, as the
Fig. 1. Green marketing innovation strategy framework towards actors’ interaction in the ecosystem.
4
Table 1
List of interviews.
Organisation Category Interview Location Role Interview approximately
length (min)
Solidaridad International NGO São Paulo (MG) Cotton project coordinator 60

CEPAC Farmers association and participative Rural settlement Zé President 60
conformity assessment body Marcolino - Cariri (PB) Senior cotton producer 60
Junior cotton producer 60
Rede Borborema Smallholder farmers association Rural settlement President 60
Queimadas - Remigio (PB) Senior cotton producer 60
Junior cotton producer, fashion brand 60
representative, and supply coordinator
EMBRAPA Cotton Brazilian farming research and Campina Grande (PB) Agronomy specialist (agroecological cotton 90
technical support institution and supply chain)
Agronomy specialist (agroecological cotton) 90
Agronomy specialist (market integration and 90
supply chain)
Agronomy specialist (agroecological cotton) 90
EMPAER Paraiba state farming research and João Pessoa (PB) Executive manager of operations 60
technical support institution
Arribaçã Brazilian NGO Campina Grande (PB) Agronomist and specialist in organic 60
certification
Diaconia Brazilian NGO Campina Grande (PB) Pedagogical political advisor 60
Coopnatural and Fashion brand João Pessoa (PB) Founder 90
Natural Fashion
Organic Cotton Fashion brand Campina Grande (PB) Production manager - Brazil 90
Colours (OCC)
Laudes Foundation International NGO São Paulo (SP) Sustainable materials manager 90
Flavia Aranha Fashion brand São Paulo (SP) Founder 90
Brazil Eco Fashion Sustainable fashion event São Paulo (SP) Co-founder and creative coordinator 90
Week
ecosystem and their interactions were identified, and an SNA was per
Table 2
formed. Qualitative data analysis within SNA is being used to better
List of technical visits.
understand how knowledge sharing within a network can help build
Textile (spinning, weaving, and retail) shared values, promote social learning, build social capital, and lead to
Organisation Category Location innovation (Simpson and De Loe, 2017). Visualisation is also a key
SENAI (Textile and clothing Technology Institute João Pessoa
aspect of SNA, it enables researchers to ‘see’ context and its scalable
production technical school) and school (PB) influence within market structures (Chandler and Vargo, 2011). It also
Unitêxtil Weaving company João Pessoa helps to identify the most influential actors in the ecosystem. We utilised
(PB) the platform Gephi, an open-source network analysis and visualisation
João Pessoa city market Retail fair João Pessoa
software (gephi.org), to conduct the SNA. For the network design, we
(PB)
Vila do Artesão Craft and fashion street Campina utilised the ForceAtlas 2 algorithm, taking into account clusters and
mall Grande (PB) numbers of interactions between the actors. Circle size is related to the
number of actors’ connections. 81 actors were identified during the in
terviews, and assuming reciprocal relations, 453 connections were
city that concentrates the most sustainable fashion relevant actors in identified.
Brazil. Whenever permitted by informants, interviews were recorded Green marketing theory informed the identification of elements and
and transcribed, and written notes were taken during technical visits. relationships related to product/packaging, price, place, promotion,
Key and renowned actors working with organic cotton in Brazil were segmentation/positioning, actors, alliances, and policies. To refine our
interviewed. The main goal was to understand each actor’s position, theoretical insights, we referred to prior literature and compared our
role, and relationships. The respondents were inquired about organic results to the existing research. Annual reports on organic cotton market
cotton production and were asked to freely express their thoughts on its from relevant international institutions were also analysed (Textile Ex
dynamics and main actors, which allowed them to explain their view on change, 2020a; Textile Exchange, 2020b; Textile Exchange, 2020c;
the market, actors and innovations, and marketing approaches for green Textile Exchange, 2021). We followed an iterative process of refining
products. Whenever possible, follow-up questions were also asked for insights, building underlying logical arguments, and relating them to
clarification. existing theory (Eisenhardt, 1989).
After identifying the main actors, a social network analysis (SNA)
was conducted, to map actors and their relationships and to help to 4. Results
visualise collaboration and co-creation within the ecosystem. Data
collected in the case study and archival materials allowed insights on There are few structured accounts about organic cotton production
value co-creation and how actors were o collaborated towards organic in Brazil, both in the academic literature and in technical reports. Thus,
cotton production, giving an integrated vision of the ecosystem. we start our Results and Discussion section by offering a summarised
account of its development, to then proceed to the analysis, which is a
3.2. Data analysis result of the iterative process described in the Method section, and thus,
it is based on archival materials and on interviews. Primary data from
Data analysis used an iterative process between data collection, interviews was important because extant literature (in Portuguese) took
analysis, and literature review to move from raw data to theoretical a partial (central actor) perspective and did not describe the ecosystem
interpretations (Eisenhardt et al., 2016). In the first data analysis, the and all actors’ relationships (e.g., Cardoso, 2017; Lirborio, 2017;
context of organic cotton in Brazil was drawn and the main actors in the
5
Azevedo, 2018; Ferraz, 2018; Textile Exchange, 2021). are local quality assurance systems that certify producers built on a
foundation of trust, social networks, and knowledge exchange. In this
4.1. The organic cotton ecosystem certification system, producers learn organic techniques, are trained on
standards verification and compliance, and how to keep proper docu
As described before, Embrapa Cotton was instrumental in developing mentation and reports. They receive an organic certification seal that
organic cotton production in the Brazilian Northeast region. Its initial assures all their products are organic. Brazil was the pioneer in PGS and
effort was followed by Brazilian branded producers: in the end of the it is an international reference on the subject, and currently, the two
1990s and the beginning of the 2000s, fashion brands Natural Cotton systems coexist: part of the organic cotton production is certified by
Colour and Natural Fashion were pioneers in articulating the supply audit certification and part by the participatory system.
chain and commercialising organic cotton textiles in the state. At the Following the international brands, Brazilian designers and brands
same time, other players took action: organic cotton farming was have also started to source organic cotton in the region. Justa Trama is a
introduced in the neighbouring state of Ceará, from the initiative of the cooperative that operates an ecological and sustainable cotton produc
Brazilian NGO ESPLAR, an organisation that offers technical assistance tion system. It is composed of workers organised in solidarity economy
and training about agroecological cultivation for Northeast semi-arid ventures: cotton producers, spinners, weavers, dressmakers, artisans,
producers. In 1993, the first organic cotton harvest was commercial seed collectors, and processors, who practice fair trade and non-
ised by smallholders from that state. Those initiatives caught the exploitative production relations. Natural Cotton Color (NCC), a Bra
attention of international branded producers, and VEJA, a French shoe zilian company, produces and sells natural coloured cotton fabrics,
brand, began to buy agroecological cotton from semi-arid producers in apparel and bags, serving both the Brazilian and the international
2004. Also, cooperative efforts were taken, a partnership was started market. NCC has been in the market for 23 years and for over 13 years
between VEJA, the Brazilian fashion cooperative Justa Trama, ESPLAR, has been working exclusively with 100% natural coloured organic cot
and the farmers’ association ADEC, which started to organise the ton, selling fabrics to designers and clothing brands such as Flavia
organic cotton supply chain in the region, working to attract more Aranha, and developed partnerships with events like the Brazil Eco
smallholders to increase production (Lima, 2008; Azevedo, 2018). Fashion Week. It sources organic cotton lint from farmers from the
Public policies and international funding were also important to Margarida Maria Alves rural settlement in Juarez Távora, Paraiba state
foster the ecosystem. In 2008, resources from FIDA (International Fund (Textile Exchange, 2020b), who have organic certification issued by the
of Agricultural Development) were directed for projects aimed at international organisation Ecocert. Spinning and weaving are out
reducing poverty and promoting the social inclusion of rural producers sourced to institutions and companies such as SENAI and Unitextil. NCC
in the semi-arid region. Those resources were managed by the Dom exports its products using the TEXBRASIL program, developed by the
Helder Câmara Program (PDHC), a public initiative devised not only to Brazilian Export and Investment Promotion Agency (APEX-Brasil) and
act as the managing body but also to support existing actors and attract the Brazilian Association of the Textile Industry (ABIT). Natural Fashion,
new stakeholders, and develop new alliances. Encouraged by projects a Brazilian company commercialising organic cotton textiles and
developed in the program, many local NGOs started offering support to clothing, started in 2000 as one of the pioneers in the natural colour
semi-arid smallholders, relying on technical knowledge developed by cotton business with technology from Embrapa also in Paraiba state. The
EMBRAPA Cotton (Ferraz, 2018). Although Paraíba and Ceará, the first company is one of the participants in the group Coopnatural (Cotton
states to produce organic cotton, feature better infrastructure and pro Textile Production Cooperative of the State of Paraíba), which started as
duction management practices, from 2008 to 2014, the PDHC and its a cooperative in 2003. Their organic cotton is certified by the certifi
stemming projects were responsible for the application of agroecological cations company IBD.
practices and the expansion of organic cotton production to others Those initiatives helped to develop the organic cotton production
semi-arid states. However, despite its success, there was still a lack of ecosystem in Brazil, which is currently composed of: small farmers’ as
investment and promotion, proper management, and logistics, which sociations, textile spinning and weaving companies, local, national and
made it difficult to scale up production. international NGOs, local, national and international fashion brands,
The termination of PDHC in 2014 caused a drastic reduction of re public and private technical support and research institutions, govern
sources and the disarticulation of support groups, leaving the challenge mental institutions and certifications bodies. The key actors in the
of sustaining producers’ development and engagement. There was a organic cotton ecosystem are detailed in Table 3 and all 81 actors
need for further integration and coordination between smallholders and identified during the field research, and their relations, are showcased in
other stakeholders, identification of production bottlenecks, and access Fig. 2.
to market data. Initiatives from private and public actors began to fill The SNA shows that EMBRAPA Cotton (R&D institution) is the
those voids, and international players began to develop initiatives in the
region. The French brand VEJA grew its presence and in 2018, bought
more than 23 tons of agroecological cotton directly from seven farmers’ Table 3
associations from different states, such as Rede Borborema and ACEPAC. Key actors in the Brazilian organic cotton ecosystem.
To support farmers, it pays half of the forecasted harvest upfront, and a Roles Actors
premium per kilo if farmers’ cooperatives and associations develop Smallholders’ associations ADEC, Rede Borborema, ACEPAC, Margarida Alves
community projects. The fibre is sent to spinning and weaving in Sao Settlement
Paulo and shoe production in the South of Brazil. The Spanish brand Universities Federal University of Sergipe, Federal University of
Organic Cotton Colour (OCC), which commercialises threads, textiles Campina Grande, Federal University of Ceará
National NGOs ESPLAR, Diaconia, Arribaçã
and clothing, started to buy organic cotton from semi-arid farmers’ as Third-party certification IBD Certifications, Ecocert
sociations in 2015. organisations
Organic production conformity certification is important to assure Designers and Branded Flávia Aranha, VEJA, Justa Trama, Natural Cotton
quality for consumers. Brazilian laws define two mechanisms: (i) Audit producers Color, Organic Cotton Colours, Natural Fashion,
Coopnatural, Redes Santa Luzia
Certification and (ii) Participatory Guarantee System (PGS). In the first
Spinning and weaving Norfil, Unitêxtil, Bercamp Têxtil, Saltorelli do Brasil
one, certificates are issued by a third-party auditing firm, following in companies
ternational standards. In the second, certificates are issued by a body International NGOs Laudes Foundation
composed of commissions, technicians, and producers’ associations, R&D and technical training Embrapa Cotton, Empaer, SENAI (textile)
which is accredited as a Participatory Organism for Organic Conformity institutions
Government Ministry of Agriculture, Livestock, and Supply
Assessment by the Ministry of Agriculture, Livestock and Supply. PGS
6
Fig. 2. Brazilian organic cotton ecosystem.
central actor, as the main knowledge provider, promoter, and market cotton ecosystem.
access facilitator. Veja, a branded producer, is the second actor, and
Laudes Foundation, a NGO, is the third: they also act as knowledge and 5. Discussion
financial providers, and market access points. The map also shows NGOs
(green circles) as important actors, they connect farmers to branded Organic cotton production in Brazil exemplifies a collaborative effort
producers and articulate the supply network. Textile processors (spin that involves many actors. Public R&D institutions have played an
ners and weaving companies - yellow circles), have few connections and important role, providing technical information and support, and con
occupy the periphery of the network, suggesting a weak link in the necting smallholders to fashion brands and other actors. Brazilian NGOs
ecosystem. also play an important role, providing further technical support and
assisting smallholders in other issues. Fashion brands have had an active
role in articulating the ecosystem, working from fibre to fashion, and
4.2. Value co-creation in organic cotton
connecting producers to the supply network. They created an upstream
marketing flow that starts with designers and brands and articulates all
The private initiatives from Brazilian and international branded
players up to smallholders, who would not be capable of reaching the
producers were complemented by public and private programs that
market by themselves.
further articulated the ecosystem. The Paraíba Cotton Project was
Paramount to encourage those actions is the fact that organic cotton
launched in 2015, as an initiative of the Paraíba state government,
production has several sustainable features that captured the attention
assisted by R&D companies Embrapa Cotton and EMPAER (the Research
of branded producers, NGOs, and public organisations. On top of
company of Paraiba State), and supported by producer associations such
applying organic farming and growing natural coloured cotton, it is
as Coopnatural, spinning companies (Norfil), and houseware brands (e.
produced by smallholders, providing income to families, raising their
g., Redes Santa Luzia). The program provides training to smallholders,
standard of living, and supporting their life in the countryside. From the
certified seeds, and technical support.
technical side, mixed crop systems associated with biodiversity conser
The Program Cotton in Agroecological Consortia was launched in
vation and the use of residues and by-products in livestock farming
2017, created and funded by the Laudes Foundation. It is coordinated by
maintain nutrient balance in the soil while providing food security for
NGO Diaconia, technical support is given by Embrapa Cotton and Fed
families.
eral University of Sergipe, and branded producers OCC and VEJA are the
The development of Brazilian organic cotton has been supported by
business partners. The program promotes mixed crop organic cotton
two pillars: (1) international and Brazilian branded producers procuring
production, fosters the improvement of the organic cotton supply
from smallholders’ associations and cooperatives, and (2) the articula
network, and enhancement of small farmers’ autonomy, who are certi
tion of networks that provide funding, technical knowledge and assis
fied by the participatory guarantee system. Based on data Textile Ex
tance, and market access to farmers. From the marketing perspective, it
change (2021), the cultivated area under the program grew from 28 ha
presents a unique feature: designers and fashion brands took the first
in 2018 to 1040 ha in 2020, assisting more than 2000 families from six
step to develop alliances with farmers’ associations and to trade directly
states of the Brazilian semi-arid region.
with them. Designers’ and branded producers’ actions were generated in
Initiatives such as Paraíba Cotton Project and Cotton in Agroecological
response to consumers’ demand, as their decisions are influenced by the
Consortia Program address the knowledge gap, connecting small pro
brand attitude towards the environment and sustainable agricultural
ducers to R&D institutions, and grant them access to the textile value
practices. Those consumers prefer locally produced products and are
chain, linking them to designers and branded producers. They promote
concerned with socially responsible consumption (Hustvedt and Dick
collaboration, skill complementarity, and value co-creation. From in
son, 2008; Wang, 2017).
ternational branded producers to backcountry small farmers, collabo
Thus, environment-focused designers and branded producers, look
ration and joint effort have fostered agroecological practices, created
ing to carve a place in the market, started to look for sustainable sources.
production capabilities in smallholders, and articulated the organic
7
They developed close relations with farmers, and some even assembled Brazil emphasises an approach that goes beyond independent efforts and
field teams to visit them frequently. Usually, apparel brands and re requires joint effort to develop and implement green marketing strate
tailers have a limited view of their supply chain, but sustainable- gies. Innovative actions come from collaboration, from the work of
oriented brands are aware that selecting low environment-impact ma several actors: new cotton cultivars and organic farming techniques
terials is an important market differential. Also, collaborative efforts and were developed by R&D institutions, which, together with NGOs,
transparency between brands and suppliers, on fair trade and environ disseminated knowledge and provided training to smallholders, who
mental concerns also give an edge, and must be promoted to their cus produce the fibre and organised themselves in associations and co
tomers. As ecosystem participants are closer, small farmers can get a operatives and established commercial relations with branded pro
clearer perspective of the value chain. ducers and designers. The latter develop products with organic fibres, as
This leads to the first pillar of the organic cotton ecosystem devel well as environment-friendly packaging, and promote their benefits to
opment: an upstream effort, in which designers and branded producers, both the environment and consumers, offering a consistent market
taking advantage of existing, sometimes incipient production capabil image. Organic certification is issued both conventional third-party
ities, searched and established relations with farmers to secure raw system and a participative one, by farmers’ associations supported by
materials suited to their market proposition. They and either took the technical institutions.
lead or were involved in collaborative initiatives to train smallholders In order to highlight the collaborative efforts in Brazilian organic
and purchase organic cotton, which contributed to the ecosystem cotton, the actions and actors involved, Table 5 organises them ac
development. Their actions were not only related to their concern for cording to the four elements of the marketing mix and related marketing
sustainability but also aimed at consumer relations, to build their brand approaches as suggested by Kotler and Armstrong (2014) and Dangelico
image and positioning. and Vocalelli (2017).
While the textile industry conventional flow is linear and down There are several product and service innovations in the organic
stream (Pal and Gander, 2018), in the organic cotton ecosystem, fashion cotton ecosystem, from social and technological perspectives. Partici
designers helped to articulate R&D institutions, public organisations, patory organic certification of production systems is an important
and NGOs to support local farmers. They visited farmers, clarified the example of smallholders’ engagement, empowerment, and autonomy.
need of organic production standards, and motivated them to create Also from the social perspective, fair trade, local embedding, translocal
associations and cooperatives. In some cases, following experiences in and international connectivity, community development and young
Italy (Formentini and Taticchi, 2016) and India (Agarwal et al., 2020), farmers and women participation are innovative results of organic cot
they make contracts to pay half of the expected harvest upfront and ton production. From the technological perspective, the mini cotton
assure the engagement of women and the youth. They also promote ginning machine ensures that cotton seed remains with smallholders, for
organic cotton to customers, relying on the legitimacy provided by planting and livestock feed. As for product innovation, new natural
EMBRAPA Cotton to communicate product quality and innovation. coloured organic cotton Denim was developed by a branded producer in
The value co-created between organic cotton producers and brands is partnership with SENAI Textile Technology Centre. Those artifacts and
a key aspect to leverage production, which includes signing long-term practices are the result of collaboration and were developed to increase
contracts and offering premium prices to smallholders. Additionally, value for all participants.
brands stimulate spinning and weaving companies to produce organic In summary, research findings indicate how national and interna
cotton. Also, design is critical to the apparel production and consump tional actors build and orchestrate an ecosystem to produce and market
tion, and, as pointed out by Lilley (2009) and Hur and Cassidy (2019), organic cotton in Brazil. They showed how creating convergence be
designers can reduce negative environmental and social effects by tween urban and rural participants is necessary to improve the
influencing consumers’ behaviour. ecosystem competitiveness and to allow value co-creation in production
This leads to the second pillar: the articulation of the ecosystem, that and marketing. However, there are still gaps, such as increasing market
enables value co-creation, connecting small farmers to brands required a and technology access, better integration with spinning and weaving
collaborative effort. Brazilian smallholders lack managerial and tech companies, and an increase in production volume. organic cotton pre
nical skills and have poor access to information and to the market. In mium prices should benefit especially smallholders and their associa
that context, social environment-focused NGOs such as Diaconia (Brazil) tions, and thus, transparency and traceability practices should be
and Laudes Foundation (Netherlands) were instrumental in the estab maintained. Finally, the engagement of more branded producers and
lishment and maintenance of the organic cotton ecosystem. They pro designers in rural community investment is required.
vide funding, articulate technical training, facilitate access to resources
such as seeds, storage facilities, and distribution channels. R&D in 5.2. Implications for theory and practice
stitutions like EMBRAPA Cotton and EMPAER also helped to orchestrate
the ecosystem, by promoting programs to disseminate knowledge and For the green marketing literature, our findings propose an inte
technologies and articulating market access. They provide organic grated approach that can be used in complex chains and ecosystems.
seeds, training on organic fertilisers and pesticides, as well as other Also, the initiatives from designers and fashion brands to trade with
control practices. They also develop projects to train and engage smallholders and at the same time, to build consumers’ awareness of
smallholders in field research methods and analysis. As pointed out by green values represent a dual marketing strategy that is still not properly
Chams-Anturi et al.(Chams-Anturi et al., 2020) , these alliances motivate addressed in the literature. Results highlight that fashion brands should
stable relationships, trust-building, contribute to knowledge transfer understand how product development, manufacturing and production
and facilitate communication. R&D institutions also offered access to processes, R&D, and material purchasing affect stakeholders. Also, the
supply networks and stimulated direct contact between farmers and initiatives from multiple actors to enable organic cotton expansion
fashion brands. They were essential to provide technical assistance and shows how collaboration is particularly relevant to improve ecosystem
training, promoted the creation of farmers’ associations, and played an competitiveness, and farmers’ well-being and to stimulate innovation.
important role in stimulating the establishment of certification partici Practical implications include the need for wider participation of
patory mechanisms. large spinning and weaving companies, and textile associations in
technological development, consumer awareness, and green market
5.1. Green marketing co-created strategies in the Brazilian organic cotton strategy commitment. Spinning and weaving companies are currently
ecosystem powerful ecosystem participants and could become more involved in
developing smallholders to increase fibre volume. The green marketing
From a green marketing perspective, the organic cotton ecosystem in elements discussed, especially those concerning social innovation and
8
Table 5 alliances, indicate the need for deeper involvement in the textile
Collaboration in the organic cotton ecosystem in Brazil according to marketing industry.
elements. For new brands willing to participate in the ecosystem, this research
Marketing elements Social and environmental Actors involved can present valuable insights to understand actors and roles. There are
and strategies innovations market opportunities for new ventures, platforms, and textile associa
Product ⋅ Organic, naturally coloured, ⋅ Smallholders tions. Attending International conferences and events can provide
toxin-free textiles and threads associations important occasions for establishing connections between organic cot
⋅ Participative certification ⋅ Technical training ton actors and strengthening market relations.
⋅ Product diversification: by- institutions (farm and
products for pharma industry and textile)
livestock farming, vegetables ⋅ Certification 6. Conclusion
from mixed cropping organisms
⋅ Designers and The purpose of this study was to discuss how green marketing stra
Branded producers tegies can impact innovation considering the case of organic cotton in
⋅ Spinning and
weaving companies
Brazil. It suggests that green marketing strategies are best developed
⋅ R&D Institutions based on collaboration and co-creation action. Weaker actors, such as
⋅ Public programs smallholders, need to be integrated with associations to be able to attend
⋅ Brazilian NGOs fashion brands and deal with the spinning and weaving companies.
Price ⋅ Premium price strategy ⋅ Farmers associations
Thus, ecosystems are the result of innovative processes in which tech
⋅ Contract-based upfront ⋅ Technical training
payments and assured purchasing institutions nological and social components are jointly developed.
⋅ Designers and Demand for organic cotton has been increasing every year, yet pro
branded producers duction still faces difficulties regarding the articulation of the
⋅ Spinning and ecosystem. This study investigated how collaborative efforts have been
weaving companies
Place ⋅ Assured market access and ⋅ R&D Institutions
able to bring Brazilian organic cotton to the market. It has been the
distribution (design fairs and ⋅ NGOs result of partnerships integrating the private and public sectors, com
stores) ⋅ Designers and munities, and NGOs. This research contributed to the green marketing
⋅ Market information branded producers literature by emphasising how alliances between environment-
transparency and product
concerned organisations constitute a strategic green action. It pre
traceability
Promotion ⋅ Information about organic ⋅ R&D Institutions sented an integrated, ecosystem perspective towards green marketing
cotton and agroecological ⋅ International NGO innovation. This contributes to fill the gap about opportunities for green
agriculture benefits to consumers, ⋅ Designers and partnerships and alliances in the literature (Cronin et al., 2011).
on websites, social media, events, branded producers Collaborative landscapes able to adapt and evolve, based on global
and workshops ⋅ National NGOs
commons and local expertise, shape the future of alliances. Projects
Segmentation/ ⋅ Premium segment ⋅ Designers and
positioning ⋅ Slow fashion, sustainable Branded producers involving multiple actors can enhance information exchange and
lifestyle, positive attitudes about knowledge sharing, and improve relations between smallholders, in
the environment, preferences for dustry, and the market, which ultimately can lead to identify production
locally produced products, and
and market gaps and opportunities. The ecosystem perspective improves
socially responsible consumerism
⋅ Kids clothing the understanding of green marketing innovations strategy in complex
People ⋅ Smallholder’s settlements and ⋅ Farmers associations networks involving regional, national and international actors, small
associations support ⋅ Technical training holders, industry, designers, and brands.
⋅ Participatory organic institutions (farm and This research has limitations that need further investigation. It
certification textile)
developed a macro perspective about the organic cotton ecosystem in
⋅ Online and distance training ⋅ Certification
⋅ Young farmers and women organisms Brazil and future studies could adopt different approaches. It did not
participation ⋅ Designers and focus on the consumer perspective, that could be interesting for future
⋅ Fair-trade and fashion Branded producers investigation. Further studies could also focus on the role of spinning
cooperatives ⋅ R&D Institutions
and weaving companies in the organic cotton ecosystem. Also, studies
⋅ Decent work ⋅ Government
⋅ National NGOs
that evaluate the impact of women and youth participation, the organic
Alliances ⋅ Access to production resources: ⋅ Farmers associations cotton ecosystem governance structure, policies and life cycle. It would
itinerant cotton ginning machines ⋅ Technical training also be interesting to investigate knowledge flows and how actors
(seeds remain on the property for institutions (farm and coevolve and develop the alliances.
planting and animal food), textile)
harvest machinery, insect ⋅ Universities
monitoring software ⋅ Designers and CRediT authorship contribution statement
⋅ Access to technologies: eco- Branded producers
friendly farming practices, ⋅ Spinning and Larissa Oliveira Duarte: Conceptualization, Methodology, Formal
sanitary practices, and protocols weaving companies
analysis, Writing – review & editing, Writing – original draft, Software.
for insects’ control and ⋅ R&D Institutions
biofertilizers ⋅ National NGOs
Rosana Aparecida Vasques: Conceptualization, Writing – original
⋅ Coordination of shared draft, Writing – review & editing. Homero Fonseca Filho: Conceptu
machinery alization, Methodology, Data curation, Formal analysis. Julia Baruque-
⋅ Farmers’ approximation to Ramos: Conceptualization, Methodology, Data curation, Formal anal
textile processes and companies
ysis, Funding acquisition, Writing – review & editing. Davi Nakano:
Policies ⋅ Fairtrade, local embedding, ⋅ Government
traceability, translocal and ⋅ Designers and Conceptualization, Data curation, Formal analysis, Investigation,
international connectivity Branded producers Writing – original draft, Writing – review & editing.
⋅ Eco-certification ⋅ National NGOs
⋅ Certification
Declaration of competing interest
organisms
The authors declare that they have no known competing financial

interests or personal relationships that could have appeared to influence
9
the work reported in this paper. CAPES (Coordenacao de Aperfeicoamento de Pessoal de Nivel Superior)
(Grant No. 001).
Acknowledgments
The authors gratefully acknowledge the Brazilian funding agency
Appendix. Guide for the semi-structured interviews
Farm – Smallholders associations

- A brief description of the organisation you integrate.
- What are your current activities?
- When do you start planting organic cotton?
- Do you cultivate other species?
- What is the production volume?
- Where are the ginning and weaving processes?
- Which company buys the cotton?
- How many are the associated families?
- What are the communication tools you use?
- Do you have a certification standard?
- What are the main challenges and perspectives for organic cotton in Brazil in production and market?
Farm - Public research institution
- What is your position and activities with organic cotton?
- Describe organic cotton production in Brazil.
- Which are the main producing states and how many families are involved?
- How do you support organic cotton production?
- Who are the participants in the organic cotton network?
- Is organic cotton considered more sustainable? Why?
- Why is organic cotton more expensive than conventional cotton?
- What are the main challenges to expand the organic cotton market, in order to meet national and international demands
and the main opportunities/perspectives for organic cotton in Brazil?
Farm - NGO
- A brief description of the organisation you work for.
- What is your position and activities with organic cotton?
- Who are the main participants in the organic cotton network you are part of?
- How do you support producers?
- What are the communication tools you use?
- What is the importance of certification?
- What are the main challenges to expand the organic cotton market, in order to meet national and international demands
and the main opportunities/perspectives for organic cotton in Brazil?
Clothing and Retail - Clothing Brand
- A brief description of the company.
- Which textile materials do you work with?
- Why do you opt for organic cotton?
- Since when do you use organic cotton?
- Have you bought organic cotton from other countries?
- Are you familiar with farmers’ processes and operations?
- Do clients know about your processes and materials?
- Where and who performs the spinning and weaving?
- What are the benefits of using it?
- Do you have feedback from your customers about organic cotton?
- From your experience with the organic cotton network in Brazil, which do you consider to be the greatest challenges and
potentials?
Clothing and Retail - Foundation
- A brief description of the company.
- What are your activities?
- What are the Foundation projects with organic cotton in Brazil? Could you give a panorama of them and how they work?
- In Brazil does the fashion brand you are related to use organic cotton in the production of garments?
- How do you engage with clients regarding that?
potentials?
Clothing and Retail - Brazil Eco Fashion Week
- A brief description of the company and your activities.
- What is the participation and relevance of organic cotton in the event?
- What are the challenges today of using organic cotton?
- Is there a demand from customers and brands for organic cotton?
- How do you see the market outlook for organic cotton?
- How do customers, brands, and the market as a whole perceive the benefit of organic cotton?
potentials?
10
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Journal of Cleaner Production 360 (2022) 132196

Contents lists available at ScienceDirect

Journal of Cleaner Production

From fashion to farm: Green marketing innovation strategies in the

Solidaridad International NGO São Paulo (MG) Cotton project coordinator 60

Fig. 2. Brazilian organic cotton ecosystem.

The authors declare that they have no known competing financial

The authors gratefully acknowledge the Brazilian funding agency

Appendix. Guide for the semi-structured interviews

Farm – Smallholders associations

References orgânico. In: Master Dissertation in Competitive Management Fundação Getúlio

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