Ultimate CG Guide
Ultimate CG Guide
com/r/curlyhair
Introduction
We created this document as a more flexible, beautiful, and usable alternative to Reddit’s
wiki system. It works better on mobile: we can actually embed images and link directly to
sections using bookmarks! We hope you enjoy it as much as we’ve enjoyed making it.
Please, don’t be intimidated by the length! If you’re just getting started: you want this
diagram. As you become more comfortable with caring for your curls and want to learn
more about them, the rest of the wiki will be here for you.🙂💜
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All of this information was collected over several years of moderating the active and helpful
/r/curlyhair community. Citations, video links, and credit to contributors is given where
possible. Many scientific sources of information have also been added.
This guidebook is meant to be a reference, something you sit down to answer a specific
question (“What even is porosity?”), not something you sit down and read through all in one
😛
sitting. Unless you’re into that.
It is also a work in progress, so if you see something you’d like to contribute please feel free
to message the moderators!
Please do keep in mind: YMMV (your mileage may vary). As you gain more experience
working with your curly hair, you may want to swap out some techniques and/or products.
While CG works for many people, it does not work for everyone and modified CG (or no CG) is
also a valid approach!
Table of Contents
Introduction 1
Table of Contents 2
CG Method 8
Overview of the Basics 8
How Often to Wash 9
Beginner Routine 9
Why try the beginner routine? 10
Wash Day 10
Infographic 10
Detailed Version 10
CLEANSE: Clarifying Shampoo 10
1. CLEANSE: Co-wash 11
Application 11
Visual 12
Important time stamps: 12
2. CONDITION: Rinse-out Conditioner 12
Application 12
Detangle 13
Rinse 13
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3. STYLE: Gel 13
Application 13
Air Dry 14
Scrunch Out the Crunch (SOTC) 14
Visual 14
Suggested Adjustments 14
Product Recommendations 15
Tips on a Budget 15
Product/Ingredient Checker/Search Apps 15
❖ Is It CG 15
❖ Curlsbot 15
❖ Curlscan 15
USA Holy Grail List 15
International (non-USA) Holy Grail List 15
Modifications to CG 16
Basics 16
Adjusting for YOUR Hair Characteristics 16
Summary 17
How to Read an Ingredient Label 17
Top 5 Ingredients 17
Why It Matters 18
Light Ingredients 18
Examples 18
Light Product 18
In-between Product 19
Heavy Product 19
Sulfates and Silicones 20
Best Candidates for Sulfates 20
Best Candidates for Silicones 20
Dry Brushing 21
Best Candidates for Dry Brushing 21
Cleanse: Cleansers 21
No-poo 22
Co-wash 23
Best Candidates for Co-wash 23
Low-poo 23
Best Candidates for Low-poo 24
Clarifying 24
Clarifying Tips 25
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Deep Conditioner 37
Protein Treatment (1) 37
Signs that your hair may benefit from a protein treatment: 37
Signs that you overdid protein and should focus on other forms of conditioning:
38
Identifying Protein in Products (1) 38
Accounting for Porosity and Texture 39
Bond Builder 40
Science! (1, 2, 3) 40
What is hair? 40
Components of the Hair Shaft 41
What makes curly hair curly? 42
How does hair grow? 43
Frequently Asked Questions 44
How can I make my hair grow faster? 44
Why is my hair texture different from what it was before? Will it revert? 44
What causes abnormal/premature/increased hair loss? 45
Individual Hair Characteristics 45
Density 46
Why It Matters 46
Identifying Your Density 46
Characteristics 46
Low Density 46
Medium Density 46
High Density 46
Recommendations Based on Density 47
Low Density 47
High Density 48
Texture 48
Why It Matters 48
Identifying Your Texture 48
By Feel 48
What do you feel? 48
Comparing to Sewing Thread 49
Recommendations Based on Texture 49
Fine Texture 49
Coarse Texture 50
Porosity (1,2) 51
Why It Matters 51
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CG Method
The Curly Girl Method (CG) is a gentle, moisturizing hair care method designed to bring out
the best in your curly hair. It is named this from the founder, and is appropriate for all
genders. This section gives a detailed overview of each step of the CG.
You do not need to follow the CG to participate in this subreddit or to benefit from
this guide! Many of the techniques here will apply even if you modify your routine.
If you just want a straightforward, quick, and inexpensive starter routine, check out
the Beginner Routine!
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❖ Brushes/combs
❖ Heat styling
Since publishing, there have been many modifications to this basic routine to better help all
curl types thrive.
We’ll go through this in more detail below, but here’s the method in a nutshell:
3. Style - scrunch in gel (mousse/curl cream) - air dry (diffuse) - break the cast (SOTC)
Make sure your products are CG-approved if you co-wash or use low-poo! The fastest
way to check ingredients is to google them, then paste them into one of these helpful apps:
Curlsbot, IsItCG.
How often you wash will depend on your hair characteristics, lifestyle, schedule,
preferences, etc. It's probably easiest to start off by sticking to your usual washing
schedule, but only co-wash/condition on those days instead of shampooing. You may find
that you need to condition more or less, but it's a good starting point.
It’s common to wash only once or twice a week, and "refresh" between washes as needed.
Many find that their hair benefits from getting conditioner every time it gets wet. More
information about refreshing can be found here.
There's a LOT of trial and error involved. That is why we suggest the beginner routine as
a starting point and then troubleshoot/tailor your routine from there.
Beginner Routine
Be prepared to throw everything you know about haircare out the window! The CG really
shakes things up. Even if it sounds crazy, give it a try!
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This tried-and-true set of products and steps will help you build a foundation that you can
modify as you get to know your hair. It will not work for everyone, but it is a great way to
get started.
Try it for a month and then come back with more specific questions.
Wash Day
Infographic
Detailed Version
CLEANSE: Clarifying Shampoo
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Before starting CG, you must wash any product build-up out of your hair with a
clarifying shampoo that contains sulfates, but no silicones. This is the most important 1st
step. Do not skip this!
You will use the clarifying shampoo infrequently (once when starting CG, and then as
needed) to remove the water-insoluble ingredients from your hair. You will use a different,
gentler product to wash your hair regularly.
❖ It might take more than one CG-approved wash and some trial & error to see a
difference. Give it at least two weeks before posting a follow-up.
Shampooing your hair with a clarifying shampoo that contains sulfates but does NOT
contain silicones will remove any buildup that was deposited by your previous routine. The
first wash when starting a CG routine will skip co-wash. Every other time, start with co-wash.
Do not use this product every time you wash your hair (once every few weeks or
months is typical). Strong surfactants (like sulfates) can be very drying for curly hair
especially.
1. CLEANSE: Co-wash
Co-wash stands for “Conditioner-only washing.” Yes: You will only use conditioner to wash
your hair, since the conditioner takes the place of shampoo! Same rules apply: no silicones
or drying alcohols.
Not everyone can co-wash: particularly low porosity, low density, fine and/or loose
curls. This also applies to people with previous scalp conditions that can be made worse by
co-washing. You can read more about scalp conditions in our mini guide here. You can read
more about alternative ways to cleanse here.
Application
1. Emulsify some conditioner in your hands: smoosh your hands together and rub the
palms against one another so that conditioner gets all over your palms.
2. Insert your fingers into the hair, starting at your forehead, and begin to scrub your
scalp in small circles with your fingertips ONLY, no nails!
3. Move your fingers backwards over the scalp, gently rubbing and scrubbing. You
might need more conditioner at this point, so pour out a little more and emulsify
again.
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4. This time, insert your fingers into the hair starting at your temples. Repeat the
gentle scrubbing, moving your hands up and back towards your crown.
5. Now repeat again, this time starting at your neck, and moving up the scalp.
6. By the time you're done, your entire scalp should have been thoroughly scrubbed.
7. Now is the time to thoroughly rinse - but don't just dunk your head! While rinsing,
continue to rub and scrub your scalp to get all the conditioner, dirt, and oils
off your scalp and out of your hair.
Visual
Application
You will probably need more than you expect! You want your mids and ends to feel like
slimy seaweed (depicted below). Add more water and/or conditioner to get this texture,
raking, smoothing and scrunching as you apply. Every curl needs to be covered in
conditioner.
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Didn’t I just use conditioner when I co-washed, and isn’t that the same thing? Not
quite! It is the same product, but used with different applications/techniques to give
different effects. The main focus of co-washing is to get dirt and oils out of your hair by
focusing on the scalp, thoroughly scrubbing and rinsing.
Conditioning focuses on the lengths of your hair, imparting lasting conditioning to your
hair. Also, if you are going to leave any conditioner in, you can't do that if you only co-wash,
since it's critical to completely wash out the co-wash.
Some inexpensive and widely available conditioners include: VO5, Suave Essentials (Ocean
Breeze/Tropical Coconut), Garnier Fructis Pure Clean, Not Your Mother’s (any Naturals Line
or Curl Talk), and Sally’s GVP Conditioning Balm.
Detangle
Once you achieve the slimy seaweed feeling, gently begin with fingers to detangle, starting
at the ends and working up to the roots. You can also use a wide-toothed comb, a "wet
brush," tangle teezer, or a denman brush (pictured in order below) to help remove
stubborn tangles. You will only be using a brush on wet hair with some form of
conditioner added, never dry hair, moving forward.
Rinse
Rinse out most but not all of the conditioner. Figuring out how much to leave-in is a
personal preference, so you will have to experiment.
3. STYLE: Gel
Application
You are going to style with a gel that does NOT contain silicones or drying alcohols.
In your wet hands, take an adequate amount of gel to coat all of your hair strands and rub
your hands together to emulsify the product. Scrunch it into your wet hair thoroughly. If you
have lots of hair, it may be helpful to do this in sections. The way your hair is settling now will
be the way it dries, so take care to shape the curls in a way that makes you happy.
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Some inexpensive and widely available gels include: Eco Styler, Aussie Instant Freeze, LA
Looks Extreme Sport, and Not Your Mother’s Curl Talk (Hard Hold or Sculpting).
Air Dry
While your hair air dries, take care to not touch it! Manipulating your hair after adding
stylers but before becoming 100% dry will disrupt the formation of your gel cast and lead to
frizz.
When your hair is 100% dry, you are now ready to gently scrunch out the crunchy gel cast.
This is known as scrunch out the crunch. This will add volume/softness to your curls while
maintaining the shape/definition.
Visual
Freshly styled and dried hair (left) VS scrunched out crunchy gel cast (right),
courtesy of /u/queeninthenorthsansa.
Suggested Adjustments
❖ Scrunching isn’t the only way to remove the cast. Always on dry hair, you could try
praying hands or clapping out the crunch as well.
❖ Not all gels work with all hair. You can always try a different one.
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❖ Gel shouldn't flake. This could be an incompatibility between your leave-in and
gel, a case of too much gel being applied, or your hair being too dry when applied.
Product Recommendations
If you can’t find the products suggested in the beginner guide, there are alternatives to be
found on the holy grail lists below. There are also various places within the wiki where
suggestions are made for certain hair characteristics. Be on the lookout for them as you
browse!
Tips on a Budget
❖ /r/haircareexchange can be used to try out or sell products that didn't work
❖ Consider sample sizes to try out new products at a lower price point
❖ Is It CG
❖ Curlsbot
❖ Curlscan
Note: This is not an exhaustive list. Organized across the bottom (desktop) / top (mobile)
are different categories of products with various information to help guide your decisions.
Remember: No two curls are alike. Think of this list as a launching pad for your curly
journey that will need to be edited along the way.
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We are always looking to represent more countries! See the first page in this list for
instructions on how to submit products.
Modifications to CG
Let’s face it: no two curly heads are alike. Something that works well for one person, may not
work well for another. Sometimes during certain seasons of the year or periods of time in
your life, something works. Then at other times it doesn’t.
We all have such different internal and external circumstances, which are constantly
changing. It is important to experiment if something you’re doing just isn’t working for you.
These are guidelines afterall, NOT rules.
We mentioned before that almost all curly hair can benefit from some parts of CG. The
following are modifications that you may find useful in your curly hair journey. This is a
good place to start if you want to troubleshoot the method.
Basics
Adjusting for YOUR Hair Characteristics
If you aren’t familiar with any of the following terms in this diagram, see their
respective sections in the wiki: cleanse, style, porosity, fine/coarse (texture), density, how
to pick light products.
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Summary
The hair characteristics in row A share properties with one another. Therefore, the more
hair characteristics you identify with in row A, the more likely the products and advice will be
applicable to you in that same row. Same goes for row B.
If your hair characteristics are a mixture of row A AND row B, the more you will have to
experiment to find your unique middle ground.
Top 5 Ingredients
When reading an ingredient label you want to look at the top five ingredients. Remember:
the list only tells you if there is more or less of one ingredient compared to another. Two
products could have the exact same ingredients but be very different, since one could be
say 80% water and the other 20%. As long as water was the most abundant ingredient, it
would still be listed as the first ingredient.
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Why It Matters
This comes in handy especially for loose curls, and low porosity/fine curls. Some
ingredients are inherently heavier and created for tighter, higher porosity, coarser curls.
Sometimes people will say that a haircare brand is bad because it didn’t work for them, but
the reality is that they didn’t pick products based on their hair characteristics.
This doesn’t mean you have to avoid every product with butters and oils in it. In fact, it can
be difficult to do that because they can be helpful for curly hair in general. Look for shea
butter or fewer lighter oils lower on the list of ingredients, or castor oil that has been
hydrogenated.
Light Ingredients
❖ Oils or butters are small in number and listed near the bottom of the list (if at all)
❖ Amino acids
❖ Marshmallow root
❖ Slippery elm
❖ Aloe vera, glycerin, or panthenol* (read our section on climate and humectant usage
here)
Examples
Light Product
Water, Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice, Propylene Glycol, Lactobacillus/Tomato Fruit
Ferment Extract, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract, Keratin Amino Acids, Acyl Coenzyme A
Desaturase, Cetrimonium Chloride, Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut)
Water, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract, Polyquaternium-10, Juniperus Communis (Juniper
Berry) Fruit Extract, Polysorbate-20, Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf Extract, Fragrance,
Phenoxyethanol, Sorbic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol
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This is a product that will lightly nourish and support curls without adding weight. It is
better suited to low porosity, fine and loose curls.
In-between Product
This is a product that is neither particularly light nor particularly heavy. It will be more
conditioning than the serum listed above, and less conditioning than the smoothie listed
below. It would be best suited to medium porosity and medium texture curls. Low porosity,
fine, loose curls may find it to be too heavy and high porosity, coarse, tight curls may find it
to be too light. There is experimentation to be done here if you fall into either of those
categories.
Heavy Product
Deionized Water, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Cocos Nucifera (Coconut ) Oil,
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Magnifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter, Persea Gratissima
(Avocado) Oil, Vegetable Glycerin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Silk Protein, Ammonium
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Salt, Melia Azadiratcha (Neem) Seed Oil, Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Seed Oil, Sorbitol
Esters, Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B-5), Caprylyl Glycol, Essential Oil Blend, Lonicera
Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract, Lonicera Japonica (Japanese Honeysuckle) Flower
Extract, Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Hibiscus Flower Extract
2) First ingredient is water, but it is followed by a total of 6 oils and 2 butters. Many of
these are high on the ingredient list.
3) Also contains protein and humectants to nourish curls, but comes with more weight
from the butters and oils.
This is a product that will deeply nourish and support curls while adding weight. It is better
suited to high porosity, coarse and tight curls.
Read more about sulfates and how they compare to other surfactants here (concentration
and formulation matter when it comes to drying effects!).
Read more about surfactants that can remove build-up here (it’s not just sulfates and
silicones!).
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Read more about silicone solubility here (some are actually water soluble!).
Read more about categories of silicones and how they behave here (we promise you they
aren’t evil!).
Dry Brushing
If you have spent any amount of time in curly hair circles, the one thing that seems almost
unanimous: do not brush dry hair! This can also be flexible though as long as you remain
gentle with your hair and periodically check in on its health. You can also use an oil on dry
hair while brushing to decrease combing forces.
Remember: Some people prefer to not use any brushes, choosing instead to use their
fingers only to detangle. Some people prefer a wide-tooth comb. Some people prefer to
brush style their wet curls with a denman brush or a bounce curl brush. All of these various
methods have their place in haircare.
Cleanse: Cleansers
If you have a known scalp condition be sure to read this mini guide on scalp conditions
here before considering co-washing.
The reality of curly hair is that each day your curls may look and feel different. They may
also need different levels of care. You can use the following flowchart to help determine
how much cleansing you may need on any particular day:
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No-poo
We won’t spend much time on this because we haven’t seen many people in the curly hair
community embrace this method. No-poo means no shampoo. This includes no
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conditioner and no stylers. Water is the main ingredient used along with various natural
items such as baking soda (which is not recommended by us) and vinegar (which has
situational use) coupled with manual cleaning. If you are interested in learning more, there
is a subreddit for that here.
Co-wash
For ease of access to a beginner, up until this point, we have used rinse-out conditioner as
co-wash. However, as CG has become more mainstream, there are products on the market
that are now formulated specifically as co-wash.
The texture and ingredients are similar to rinse-out conditioners. They tend to be thick,
opaque, and they do not lather. They can also be more cleansing than using a rinse-out
conditioner, but remain just as conditioning. If you find that using rinse-out conditioner as
co-wash isn’t quite getting the job done, consider a marketed co-wash.
Medium - high porosity hair, damaged hair (chemically/heat treated), coarse hair, and tight
curls.
Low-poo
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Sometimes you just need more cleansing power than co-wash can provide. This is where
low-poo comes in, also known as low lather/sulfate free shampoo. Compared to co-wash, they
are: thinner/more liquidy, less opaque, and they do lather somewhat. They are more
cleansing than co-wash, but also less conditioning than co-wash. They have gentle
surfactants that give them qualities that place them in-between co-wash and clarifying
shampoo.
If you’re seeing the signs below while following a co-wash only routine…
❖ Hair that feels mushy when wet and struggles to hold a curl
❖ Irritated scalp
Fan favorite low-poos include: Shea Moisture Coconut and Hibiscus Curl and Shine
Shampoo, Not Your Mother’s Naturals Curl Definition Shampoo, Camille Rose Sweet Ginger
Cleansing Rinse, and Jessicurl Gentle Lather Shampoo.
Medium - low porosity hair, fine hair, low density hair, grease prone hair, loose curls and
those with certain scalp conditions.
Clarifying
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If you have read the beginner routine, we have touched on clarifying shampoo already. This
is typically a sulfate containing shampoo that is used to remove any residual build up on the
hair and scalp. It is one of the most effective cleansers. While being great at cleansing, it can
also be too harsh for the lengths of the hair.
Compared to low-poo, they are: thinner/more liquidy, typically clear and maybe even
bubbly, and they lather the most.
Clarifying Tips
❖ No more than once a week for maintenance, more likely once a month at most
❖ Any time your hair isn’t reacting like it normally should: try clarifying first!
Fan favorite marketed clarifying shampoos include: VO5, Suave Daily Clarifying, Malibu
C Un-Do-Goo, and Bounce Curl Gentle Clarifying.
Low porosity hair, fine hair, low density hair, grease prone hair, and those with certain scalp
conditions.
Chelating
Chelating shampoo looks and feels exactly like clarifying shampoo. Coupled with strong
surfactants, added chelators are able to bind to and remove excess minerals that hard
water has deposited on the hair. If you know that you live in an area with hard water, it
should be a staple in your hair care kit. It follows the same tips given above for clarifying
shampoo.
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Fan favorite chelating shampoos include: Kinky Curly Come Clean, Sally’s Ion Hard
Water, Malibu C Hard Water Wellness and Ouidad Water Works Clarifying (sulfate/drying
alcohol).
Style: Stylers
There are countless products that you can use to style your curly hair, and your routine is
likely to be different from your friends and maybe even someone else in your family. Keep
in mind: sometimes it’s not the products that make the most difference, but the
methods/techniques. Our mini guide expanding on techniques can be found here.
Stylers are used to accomplish specific goals with the hair and as such they are applied in a
specific order. Typically this is a conditioning styler, followed by a hold styler. Finishing
stylers are an optional last product. There are variations to this, and those will be outlined
for you moving forward. As you read the individual sections below, you will also see that
there is some overlap. It is best to choose stylers with the appropriate conditioning level
and hold level for your hair characteristics.
1) Conditioning Styler
2) Hold Styler
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3) Finishing Styler
Leave-in
If you are following the beginner routine, this step is included for you. We recommend for
your first few washes on CG to not completely rinse out your conditioner which will make it
behave as a leave-in. If you find that you can’t get the right ratio, or you would rather follow
the manufacturer’s instructions, leave-in conditioners do exist. These are great for adding
long lasting conditioning to your hair, but they provide no hold.
Fan favorite leave-ins include: Kinky Curly Knot Today, Curls Blueberry Bliss Reparative,
Camille Rose Curl Love Moisture Milk, Giovanni Direct Weightless Moisture, Mixed Chicks
(silicone), and Innersense Sweet Spirit.
Curl creams tend to be moderately conditioning and may provide light hold.
Fan favorite curl creams include: Cantu Curl Activating, Shea Moisture Coconut and
Hibiscus Curl Enhancing Smoothie, Miss Jessie’s Multicultural Curls (silicone/drying alcohol),
Bed Head Tigi Curls Rock Amplifier (silicone/drying alcohol), and Innersense Quiet Calm Curl
Control.
Fan favorite curl enhancers include: AG Re:Coil Curl Activator (drying alcohol).
Custards tend to be moderately conditioning and offer hold comparable to gel. They
are typically considered “one and done” stylers.
Fan favorite custards include: Kinky Curly Curling Custard, Uncle Funky’s Daughter Curly
Magic, Camille Rose Curl Maker, and Curlsmith Curl Defining Styling Souffle.
Mousse/Foam
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Mousse or foam is a lightweight alternative to gel. It still provides hold (usually not quite as
much), but it’s formulated to be less heavy on the hair. This can be a good substitute for gel if
you are low porosity, fine, and low density, or if you simply don’t like the product-y feeling
that gel can have. Foam can also be used at your roots to encourage volume without weighing
hair down.
Fan favorite mousses/foams include: Cake The Curl Whip, Not Your Mother’s Curl Talk
Activating, The Doux Mousse Def Texture Foam, Curlsmith Bouncy Strength Volume Foam,
and Innersense I Create Lift.
Gel
We recommend ALL curly hair starts with this styler for the following reasons:
⭐⭐⭐
❖ Hold/Lasting style
❖ Definition ⭐⭐⭐
There are MANY ways to apply gel other than scrunching. You can read our mini guide
about those here.
Oil
Oils provide shine, lubrication and pliability to the hair. They generally seal, but some are
capable of penetrating.
Oils are best suited for high porosity hair, but that doesn’t mean low/medium porosity hair
can’t benefit from them. You have to be careful with how much and what type(s) you use.
❖ High porosity hair can generally tolerate the most oil and may need both
penetrating and sealing oils. Generally though, sealing is the more important
process in this case. Since the cuticle is raised or missing, oils help to reduce
moisture loss and excess moisture gain.
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❖ Low porosity hair generally doesn’t require any penetrating or sealing oils. You
might find that your hair likes them though. For this porosity, consider very minimal
application or time-extensive application (deep conditioning with oil).
❖ Fine hair can be weighed down by heavy oils or a heavy application. Coarse hair
tolerates this better.
❖ Loose curls can be weighed down by oils. Tight curls tend to be more agreeable with
heavy oils.
A light application can be anywhere from a few drops to a couple of pea-sized drops. Be
sure to start off small: not only will it go a long way, but it will require washing to remove.
You can always add more later.
Oils to Consider
Penetrating: avocado (light), babbasu (light), coconut, olive, palm kern, sunflower (light)
Sealing: (jamaican black) castor, grapeseed (light), jojoba (light), rice bran, shea butter
Hairspray
Much like gel, curly hairspray has come a long way in a relatively short amount of time. It’s
even lighter than mousses, foams and oils, so you won’t have to worry so much about
adding any weight when using it. It’s a great way to add additional hold and prolong your
style while simultaneously protecting from the effects of humidity.
Fan favorite hairsprays include: Rizos Curls Volumizing, Curlsmith Flawless Finish
(sulfate), Bounce Curl, and Innersense I Create Finish (drying alcohol).
Style: Drying
Standard Plopping
Plopping is an optional technique that does not use heat. It is used to gently remove excess
water and product from the hair while maintaining definition. It’s typically done for 15-20
minutes. You will be using a microfiber towel (not terrycloth) or an old cotton t-shirt.
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As with anything else in the curly world, there is no single correct way to plop your hair. The
following are some helpful tips and short video links to various techniques to try on
multiple different curls:
❖ Keeps you from touching your curls while they begin drying
❖ Sets curls - enhancing looser curls using an accordion method and reduces frizz
However, if it doesn't work for you, you're not alone! Sometimes hair doesn’t benefit from
plopping. It is especially hit-or-miss for short hair. If you have known scalp conditions,
plopping is not recommended.
Reverse Plopping
Credit /u/toothlesspolecat for this technique with visuals.
1) The reverse plop starts from a standing position, with your wet hair just hanging
normally down your back. Lay the bottom hem of an oversized long sleeve t-shirt
across your shoulders, at the base of your neck. Take the corners of the hem (points A
and B) and wrap them tightly to the top of your forehead, tucking one corner under
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2) Halfway down the body of the shirt (point D), fold the neck hem upwards to the middle
of your head, making sure to envelope your hair. Fold it again, so that point D is now at
point C on your forehead, with the sleeves dangling at the moment.
3) Pull the sleeves forward and tie them in a square knot on top of point D in order to
hold everything in place. Tuck the tails into the folds at the sides. Depending on the
length of your sleeves and how secure your wrap is, you may find it easier to first cross
the sleeves behind your head before bringing them forward to knot them. Try to keep
the folding loose, but the knotting tight.
Micro-Plopping
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If you find that standard/reverse plopping doesn’t work for you, consider micro-plopping.
This mini technique can remove excess water from your ends without changing any of the
curl structure further up the length of the hair.
Diffusing
For our low porosity friends with dense, tightly curled hair, dry time can take 12+ HOURS.
To speed up this process, and limit the amount of time hair remains wet, try diffusing!
Diffusing is also great for volume (sometimes at the cost of definition). This can cut down
significantly on how long a wash day takes.
As with anything else in the curly world, there is no single correct way to diffuse your hair.
The following are some helpful tips and short video links to various techniques to try on
multiple different curls:
Diffusing Tips
❖ Use temperature wisely! Yes, hot air will speed things along; however, it can cause
heat damage and frizz from uneven drying. Likewise, in the other extreme, using only
cold air can be slower and even cause frizz from needing to diffuse for so long. An
optional blast of hot air at the start can help to set curls, followed by cool or warm air
for the rest of the process.
❖ Some people like to diffuse for 5-10 minutes before air drying the rest of the way to
give it a little head start. Give it a try and see if it works for you!
❖ When looking for a blow dryer and diffuser it's very important to be 100% certain the
diffuser will fit on the blow dryer. You can spend some time looking into the fit, asking
around, and measuring the diameter of the barrel. However the best way to be
absolutely certain is to purchase them as a set, or you can buy the diffuser first and
take it to a store where they have display models. If you ask nicely they will usually let
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you try the diffuser on the floor models so you can feel how fast and how hot the air is
coming through the diffuser.
❖ Make sure the blow dryer has a cool setting, and you may also want a cool shot
button. Depending on how much time you have/your hair/how strictly CG you decide
to go, you may choose to use low heat and temper it to make it a bit cooler using the
cool shot button.
❖ Look for a blow dryer that has a click button and not a slide if you think you may blow
dry upside down. It's more trouble to fiddle with the slide kind when you can't see.
Furthermore, if you want to try different diffuser methods like pixie diffusing, you'll be
turning it on and off upside down and blind. It’s as complicated as it sounds.
❖ You will also want to look at the weight and volume of the blow dryer. Figure in any
limited mobilities you have and how long you might be diffusing based on your hair
characteristics.
❖ Clip your roots, either with flat metal clips or lift with a claw/butterfly clip, and let air
dry or diffuse
❖ Fluff your roots once dry. Try using a pick or just gently inserting your fingers at the
scalp and vibrating your hands in place.
Full length 20 second video detailing root clipping, dry texture spray/hair spray at roots,
and fluffing roots with fingers/pick.
Night Routine
You’ve put all this hard work into wash day. You look fabulous by the end of the night. How
in the world does one maintain this until morning?! For a second day, a third day, a fourth day,
etc.? 2nd (3rd/4th/etc.) day hair refers to wearing your hair naturally without washing again.
One of the most important parts of having great 2nd day hair is having a solid night time
routine. If you are the kind of person to move around a lot while sleeping, listen up. Here
are some options for night time protection.
Note: These techniques tend to work best with hard hold gels, but play around and see
what works for you! We are also working with hair that is already dry.
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❖ Bonnet (silk or satin, curls can be left loose or placed into a pineapple/medusa clipped)
❖ Pineapple: A soft (satin) scrunchie, ribbon elastic hair tie, or spiral hair tie/Invisibobble
works best to decrease breakage and avoid the dreaded crease.
❖ Medusa clipping: Especially helpful if your hair is too short to pineapple, or you get a
headache from too much tension with other methods.
As with anything else in the curly world, there is no single correct way to refresh your hair.
You might have to try these out on days where you can throw it up into a bun (or a braid) if
it doesn't work out. The following tips are organized from wet refreshing to dry refreshing.
Re-Do
1) Completely re-wet your hair
Spray Bottle
1) Fill a spray bottle or continuous mister bottle with water
ii) This is not shelf stable - do not store for any length of time
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2) Wet your curls to their desired dampness to reactivate the products that are already in
your hair
3) Scrunch your curls and smooth the frizz back into their curl tendrils
Visual
Wet Hands
1) Wet your hands with water
Visual (14:41)
Curl-by-Curl
You can do this for as few or as many curls as you like!
1) Find a limp or frizzy curl and section it out from the rest of your hair
3) Smooth the water and the product along the curl, folding the frizz back into the curl
clump
4) Finger coil, finger roll, brush style, or scrunch the curl clump
5) Air dry
Visual (7:24)
Steam
1) Purchase a hair steamer (or hang out in the shower!)
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Visual (1:55)
Refresh Sprays
1) There are various refreshing sprays on the market.
Dry Refresh
1) Take a small amount of oil/serum/foam/water based gel/curl cream
3) Smooth over any frizzy areas using praying hands, scrunching, twisting, or curl by
curl
Visual (4:44)
Optional Treatments
Pre-Poo
This stands for pre-shampoo, and it is a method that is best suited for tight, high porosity,
tangle prone curls, including curls that have been in a protective style for any significant length
of time. This protects the hair from being overly-stripped when shampooing, and helps
detangle the hair.
You can use your favorite penetrating oil/oil blend or deep conditioner. It is typically applied
to the scalp and dry hair minutes to hours before shampooing (caution if using deep
conditioner overnight). You can also use heat to create a hot oil treatment (do not burn
yourself).
Visual
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Deep Conditioner
It is exactly what it sounds like: a more nourishing conditioner (masque) that is applied to
your hair for an extended period of time (minutes up to an hour) to penetrate deeply and
impart lasting conditioning.
If co-wash, rinse-out conditioner, leave-in conditioner, and curl cream isn’t enough for you,
there is always deep conditioner. This is entirely optional if you are low porosity and fine:
you might not see much change with adding deep conditioner to your routine. (Try doing it
after monthly clarifying shampoo!) If you are high porosity, live in a dry climate, or expose your
hair to a lot of chemical/heat treatments, this could be a great addition to your weekly routine.
It can contain protein if you desire. Most products that are marketed as a deep conditioner
have additional ingredients that rely on that longer set time, but you can use your rinse out
conditioner if you desire.
This is typically applied after shampoo, in place of rinse-out conditioner, and rinsed
thoroughly. Low porosity hair might find it helpful to add heat (like a Hot Head) to get really
good penetration.
Fan favorite deep conditioners include: Not Your Mother’s Matcha Green Tea & Apple
Blossom Ultimate Nutrition Butter, Mielle Organics Babassu Oil & Mint, and Shea Moisture
Manuka Honey & Mafura Oil Intensive Hydration
ALL hair can benefit from protein usage. The trick is understanding how much, how
often, and what type(s). These are largely dictated by your unique combination of porosity
and texture.
Note: Even though the following recommendations are generalized, you may have hair that
is happy with throwing out the “rule” book. In that case, keep doing what makes your hair
happy! 🙂
Signs that your hair may benefit from a protein treatment:
❖ Fine hair
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❖ Frequent heat styling, exposure to the pool and sun, and/or doing bleach/coloring
treatments
❖ You’ve tried deep deep conditioning and your hair still isn’t recovering
Signs that you overdid protein and should focus on other forms of
conditioning:
First, make sure you are thoroughly rinsing out protein treatments. Second:
3) Limit the amount of protein containing products you apply to your hair moving
forward
Digging deeper and looking at the ingredient label, you want to see:
➢ Keratin, soy, oat, milk, rice, silk, quinoa, wheat, collagen, etc.
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➢ Oat Protein and derivatives: glutamic acid, aspartic acid, proline, alanine
❖ Yeast extract
❖ Botanical extracts
❖ Hydrolyzed seeds
The following are product types that can contain specific types of proteins and the
frequency in which you should use them based on your porosity and texture.
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❖ Additional types: gelatin or hydrolyzed wheat, oat, quinoa, corn, soy, lupine and
other plant or vegetable proteins
Fan favorite protein treatments include: ApHogee Two-Step (silicone), Curl Junkie Repair
Me! Reconstructive, and Briogeo Don’t Despair, Repair!
Bond Builder
These go a step further than protein treatments and target the disulfide bonds that are
broken through heat and chemical styling. They are especially useful for high porosity,
heat/chemical damaged hair.
Science! (1, 2, 3)
What is hair?
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Hair starts at the hair bulb. This tissue is living and receives nourishment from blood
vessels near the scalp to continuously produce hair cells which will become the hair shaft.
This is why scalp health is important for hair growth as is diet.
The sebaceous gland produces sebum which coats the hair shaft providing lubrication and
improving manageability. In curly hair, the spiral shape makes it more difficult for this
sebum to coat root to tip. This contributes to the dryness commonly reported in curly hair.
The visible part that is conditioned and styled daily is the hair shaft. It is no longer living
which is why it is vitally important to protect its structural integrity. It is not able to be
repaired and it can not be healed.
In coarser hair, the innermost layer of the hair shaft is the medulla. Together with the
cortex, they provide strength and elasticity to the hair shaft.
Surrounding the medulla is the cortex which makes up the bulk of the hair shaft by weight.
Not only does it contain melanin which gives hair its color, but it houses keratin proteins that
have been produced in the hair bulb. These are folded and packaged inside the cortex and
further stabilized by disulfide bonds.
The cortex is protected by the cuticle. This layer accounts for a lot of the visible hair
characteristics that are measurable such as: shine, porosity, and manageability to name a
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few. If the cuticle becomes damaged, the cortex will be exposed. This leads to mechanical
failure of the hair shaft which is seen as loss of shine, split ends, and hair breakage.
It starts at the follicle: where the hair leaves the scalp and becomes visible to the eye. The
opening is round in people with straight hair and becomes progressively more oval or
elliptical shaped with curlier hair. The hair fibers emerge at an angle which helps to create
the spiral shapes seen with curly hair.
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It continues within the cortex. Various disulfide, hydrogen, and salt bonds work together
to support the spiral shape, with the quantity of disulfide bonds increasing as curliness
increases.
Disulfide bonds are stronger and typically can only be broken when using chemical
treatments or high heat, whereas hydrogen bonds are weaker and only require water to
break. Salt bonds are also weaker and are typically broken with pH imbalances. Bond
building treatments like Olaplex and K18 target these in order to strengthen hair.
This is why wetting your hair will always revert it to its natural curl pattern (resetting
hydrogen bonds). This is why chemicals are required to make naturally curly hair
permanently straight (breaking disulfide bonds). This is also why curls can be lost over time in
individuals who consistently heat style, bleach or otherwise damage their hair.
1. Anagen - This is an active growth phase. The follicle is continuously producing hair
cells in order to create the hair shaft. This will eventually break the surface of the
skin during the metanagen phase. This whole process can continue for several years.
2. Catagen - This is a transitional stage that typically lasts for a few weeks. The hair
bulb will shrink and form a club hair.
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3. Telogen - This is a resting phase. The hair follicle has become dormant and the hair
shaft is no longer growing. Approximately 10% of your hair is currently in this stage
which can last for up to one year. After this time, the hair will be shed.
New hair cells will begin to multiply at the base of the emptied hair follicle to form a new
hair shaft, and the cycle starts anew. However, if the hair follicle dies, it will never produce
another hair fiber.
❖ Reduce stress
But what about rosemary oil? Claims are purely anecdotal. Read more on this here.
Why is my hair texture different from what it was before? Will it revert?
It’s impossible for us to predict what your texture will be like NOW with a better routine, let alone
years into the future.
Remember: the entire hair life cycle is complete within 2-8 years. Let’s say your individual
baseline for the hair life cycle is 5 years. A hair that starts growing today will be gone within
5 years, along with all of the other hairs that have come before it.
We’ve already learned that your vascular and endocrine systems are responsible for texture
changes to the hair. Changes in these systems can cause a change in texture. These
include:
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❖ Thyroid disease
This is not an exhaustive list either. Think back: 5 years ago did any of these things happen
to you? Your hair texture may have been affected as a result of these changes.
There is a wide variety of causes of hair loss and therefore a wide variety of presentations
and treatment options. It is important to speak to your medical doctor, dermatologist
or trichologist for an accurate diagnosis if you suspect you have increased hair loss.
Causes of abnormal/premature/increased hair loss include:
❖ Hormonal changes
❖ Medical conditions
❖ An ingredient allergy
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Density
Hair density refers to how many individual hairs grow per square inch of your scalp. We
discourage users from saying hair is “thick” or “thin” because coarse hair (thick) can be low
density (thin) and fine hair (thin) can be high density (thick). See how confusing that was?!
Why It Matters
Density is important for styling your hair: specifically the methods/techniques you use,
but also the weight of your products. It can also affect how a haircut will look on you. It is
generally the most dense in your crown area.
It’s important to remember that hair density has a genetic component. Density generally
decreases as you age and varies among ethnicities. Low density hair may not be due to any
sort of underlying medical condition. There isn’t a “too high or too low” density or a “bad”
density. They are just hair characteristic cards that you were dealt and now have to work
with.
Characteristics
Low Density
Medium Density
High Density
Your scalp is very difficult to see even when you part your hair
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Remember this chart: Your texture and your porosity can play a part in these
recommendations. If you are loosely curly, low porosity, fine, low density - these
characteristics all agree with one another (same with tightly curly, high porosity, coarse,
high density). But if you happen to be a mix of conflicting hair characteristics, you will have
to experiment more to find your middle ground.
Note: Even though the following recommendations are generalized, you may have hair that
is happy with throwing out the “rule” book. In that case, keep doing what makes your hair
happy! 🙂
Low Density
❖ Lightweight products
❖ Volumizing products
❖ Always SOTC
❖ Blunt haircuts
➢ If you do opt for layers, be sure that your is coarse enough to support it
Full length video DOs and DON’Ts, with time stamps: pre-poo and shampoo - deep
condition - rinsing/upright styling - damp styling - lightweight stylers - upright brush styling -
diffusing
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High Density
➢ Layers
➢ Undercuts
➢ Thinning shears
Texture
This is also known as your individual strand thickness, which refers to the diameter/width
of a single piece of hair. Texture can also refer to “wavy, curly, coily” hair vs straight hair.
Since everyone on /r/curlyhair is welcome to use the word “curl,” when we talk about
texture here we are referring to the individual strand thickness (unless otherwise specified).
Why It Matters
Texture may be the second most important hair characteristic to know about yourself. Along
with porosity and density, THIS is how you pick products. THIS is how you decide on
methods.
Fine hair responds well to different things (and has different struggles) than coarse hair, so
it is important to treat them separately.
By Feel
3) Roll those two fingers back and forth against one another with the hair strand
between them
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Remember this chart: Your porosity and your density can play a part in these
recommendations. If you are loosely curly, low porosity, fine, low density - these
characteristics all agree with one another (same with tightly curly, high porosity, coarse,
high density). But if you happen to be a mix of conflicting hair characteristics, you will have
to experiment more to find your middle ground.
Note: Even though the following recommendations are generalized, you may have hair that
is happy with throwing out the “rule” book. In that case, keep doing what makes your hair
happy! 🙂
Fine Texture
❖ Lightweight products
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❖ Volumizing products
➢ Texture sprays, hairsprays, foams, dry shampoo, mousse instead of gel, etc.
❖ Hydrolyzed proteins
❖ Damp styling to avoid the weight of water pulling out your curl pattern
❖ Strong hold gel to support curl structure and promote style longevity
❖ Blunt haircuts
➢ If you do opt for layers, be sure that your have enough density to support it
Coarse Texture
➢ Don’t be afraid to layer products (like oils for sealing as a final step)
❖ Refreshing can be your friend, allowing you to better condition your hair between
washes as the week goes on
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Porosity (1,2)
Porosity is your hair’s ability to both absorb and retain moisture and this is dependent on
the intactness of its cuticle. A simplified and relatable way to visualize this, is to think of
your cuticle as shingles on a roof.
Low porosity hair would be a newly installed roof. All the “shingles” are laying flat and
protecting the “house” from water underneath. There are very few breaks in the shingles.
Medium porosity hair is a roof that was installed 10 years ago. It’s still in decent shape, it’s
functional. But it has seen some things, so a few of the “shingles” are
cracked/lifted/displaced from damage over time.
High porosity hair is a roof that needs to be replaced. It’s been 30 years, it’s at the
maximum of its life span. A lot of “water” is getting in through all the broken “shingles” and
a lot of “heat” is getting out. It is no longer doing a good job at protecting the “house,” and
will eventually fail.
Why It Matters
Porosity may be the single most important hair characteristic to know about yourself. Along
with texture and density, THIS is how you pick products. THIS is how you decide on
methods.
Low porosity hair responds well to different things (and has different struggles) than high
porosity hair, so it is important to treat them separately.
Low porosity hair has an intact cuticle, which on paper sounds great. But when you pair
that with heavy conditioning agents (a lot of the original curly products contained these), all
of that is going to sit on top of the intact cuticle and cause build-up.
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Medium porosity hair is typically easy to work with. If you have limited issues with
maintaining conditioning or preventing build-up, you won the porosity lottery! A lot of
products should work well for you.
High porosity hair has a very damaged cuticle with many breaks in it. If you use products
that are not conditioning enough, the hair will feel dry and rough. It is also more
susceptible to further damage due to swelling and eventually failure of the hair fiber.
Note: The float test is flawed, and we do not recommend placing your hair in a glass of
water to try to determine your porosity because:
❖ Fine hair will float due to the surface tension of water regardless of porosity.
❖ Hair and water have a similar specific gravity which makes dry hair buoyant by
default.
➢ Weight of product or buildup can alter how the hair interacts with the surface
tension of the water.
➢ The product can contain water repelling substances (like oil) which would
force the hair to float,
There are too many variables at play to be able to reliably determine your porosity using
the float test.
Characteristics
One of the best ways to measure porosity is using gas sorption. This is expensive and
definitely not a DIY project. The good news is: For you at home, there are various,
measurable characteristics that you can see and feel in real life that will set low and high
porosity hair apart. YOU are the best judge of your porosity, so let’s get measuring! 🙂
Low Porosity
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❖ Smooth strands
❖ Shiny hair
High Porosity
❖ Gets wet immediately with water and dries within minutes or a few hours
❖ Tolerates and even enjoys heavy products (seems to fully “soak them in”) -
appreciable change seen with deep conditioning
❖ Tangles easily
Genetics also play a role in porosity. Some hair is naturally prone to becoming high
porosity despite never (or rarely) being exposed to bleach, chemicals, frequent sun, high
heat styling, etc.
I feel like I’m BOTH low and high porosity, which is it?
This could be a factor of your texture at play, and maybe even your density. Let’s take fine,
high density, and high porosity hair as an example. This is hair that would be susceptible to
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build-up due to being fine and would take longer to thoroughly wet/dry due to being high
density. These are both counter what is suggestive of high porosity hair alone.
It’s possible that you are just good ole medium porosity.
Your hair feels mostly smooth. Your hair may be shiny, but not in a way that calls attention
to itself. It takes color as expected, and it keeps color as expected. You’ve been in the pool a
couple of times this year and you heat treat (with heat protectant, of course!) twice a year
at family gatherings. When you use a reasonable amount of conditioner, it looks good. It
might go through a period of feeling dryer than usual, but with hair conditioner and gentle
care it springs right back up to normal.
Remember how hair grows. Your ends have the potential to be 8 years old while the roots
aren’t even a year old. Those ends have seen your bleach job 5 years ago and that phase of
straightening for 2 years during college whereas your roots haven’t. Your porosity is rarely
fixed along the entire length of a hair strand.
Exposure is the same reason why the canopy hairs tend to be higher porosity than the
hairs that they cover. They are more frequently exposed to the environment (think
UV/sun/wind). They are the first layer to get blasted by the full force of your shower head.
They tend to be the layer that you play with the most, pin back behind your air, or pull up
away from your face.
Remember this chart: Your individual strand thickness and your density can play a part in
these recommendations. If you are loosely curly, low porosity, fine, low density - these
characteristics all agree with one another (same with tightly curly, high porosity, coarse,
high density). But if you happen to be a mix of conflicting hair characteristics, you will have
to experiment more to find your middle ground.
Note: Even though the following recommendations are generalized, you may have hair that
is happy with throwing out the “rule” book. In that case, keep doing what makes your hair
happy! 🙂
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A lot of this comes down to dose and application. Low porosity hair still needs
conditioning as it can still benefit from oils or protein. You just have to be a little more
selective about ingredients/overall formulation heaviness and how you apply/how much.
❖ Hydrolyzed proteins
❖ Heat with hair treatments (Hot Heads with deep conditioning, as an example)
High Porosity
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➢ Don’t be afraid to layer products (like oils for sealing as a final step)
❖ Refreshing can be your friend, allowing you to better condition your hair between
washes as the week goes on and threatens to dry your hair out
Methods
Some hair characteristics (like low density) or some hair desires (like more volume) work
better with damp styling.
Doing all of the styling upside down (or even diffusing upside down) can create great
volume at the root. This is especially helpful for loose/fine curls that tend to fall as the day
progresses.
Visual
Full length 4 minute video with audio.
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A popular alternative is switching up the order: LCO. This can be better for tight curls that are
low porosity/fine OR loose curls that are high porosity.
Smasters
This method is designed to reverse any frizz that has started to become apparent as your
hair has started drying. You follow your routine as normal, up to ~50% dry. Then you add
gel, mousse or cream to your hands and plenty of water. Apply this mixture to your curl
clumps using glazing/praying hands techniques.
Visual
Full length 30 second video with audio.
Techniques
The following are ways to apply products to your hair. Unless otherwise stated, these are
mainly used for applying stylers (leave-in, cream, gel, mousse, oil, etc.).
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Scrunching
This is your most basic styler application.
1) Dispense enough product in your hand to cover the amount of hair you are styling.
2) Cup your curls in both hands and scrunch upwards toward your head, trying to
distribute the product evenly without breaking up your curls.
Helpful hint: If your hair is frizzy when you leave the shower, it won't get any better after it
dries! Take this time to really shape the curls the way you want them to lay when dry.
Visual
0:02
Visual
Full length video with audio.
Roping
With a styler already emulsified in your hands, grab a section of your hair like you would a
rope, and squeeze from the roots down the lengths.
Visual
0:29
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Glazing/Praying Hands
Apply a styler to your hands and rub them together to fully coat your palms. For glazing,
lightly run your hands over your hair from the roots to the ends, transferring product from
your hands to your hair as you go.
For praying hands, you will place your hands on either side of a section of hair (near the
root) and gently bring your palms together. Keeping your hands together in this “praying”
gesture, move them down the hair shaft to the ends.
This smooths the product along the hair, encouraging clumping and reducing frizz. This
technique can elongate the curls for some, especially if the hands are clamped together
tightly. If you have curls that are easily straightened out, be careful with how much
pressure you apply.
Visual
Full length video.
❖ 0:30 Scrunching
Accordion
1) While styling wet hair with stylers applied, cup the bottom of a curl in the palm of
your hand.
2) Spiral it around and up in the natural way that it wants to go until your hand
touches your scalp.
Rake/Shingle
This is a great method for tight curls to ensure that an adequate amount of styler is coating
every strand. It’s pretty straightforward and probably best explained visually.
Visual
Rake
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Shingle
3) Use your fingers to rake your desired styler (gel/mousse) through this section from
root to tip while detangling and smoothing
4) As your fingers reach the ends, shake at the wrist to encourage curl formation
Visual
Full length video with audio.
Finger Coiling
Finger coiling helps define each curl individually. Apply your styler to your hair evenly by
whatever technique you prefer. Take a small, curl-sized piece of hair and smooth it out.
Tighter curls should generally take smaller chunks, and looser curls can take larger chunks.
Twirl the curl around your finger, keeping it long, and once it is twisted, keep twirling so
that it wraps itself around your finger, getting closer to your scalp. Drop the curl and repeat
with a new section.
Visual
Full length 1 minute video with audio.
Finger Rolling
Finger rolling is another way to help define each curl individually. It works best for loose
curls. Apply your product to your hair evenly by whatever technique you prefer. Take a
small, curl-sized piece of hair and smooth it out. Starting at the end, roll your index fingers
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around one another along with your hair, and up towards your scalp. Remove one finger
and twirl the remaining one to gently release the curl.
Visual
Full length video with audio. (Also includes a variation on finger rolling.)
Brush Styling
There are SO many variations on brush styling that it might be impossible to compile them
all in one place. This technique is helpful if you want more uniform curls and if you want uber
defined curls.
You will want to start with freshly washed hair that has had leave-in or a curl cream applied
by your chosen technique. Using the Denman brush (one of the many variations), a Bounce
Curl brush, a Tangle Teezer, a Wet Brush, or simply a wide tooth comb (or a popular brush
dupe!), you are going to morph your curls into smooth curly ribbons with some fancy wrist
work.
After you have brush styled your entire head, you are going to apply gel/mousse with
glazing/praying hands (optional scrunching) being mindful to not to disturb the clumps that
you have created.
Visuals
The following (listed alphabetically by poster) are numerous video links to various
techniques to try on multiple different curls. This is by no means an exhaustive list:
3) Brittcurls - Wet brush - arc motion away from the face, shake clump at the root
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4) Gena Marie - Tangle teezer - faster brush styling with larger sections for volume - lift
at the root, hand on the back of the brush for tension - follow with a wide tooth
comb to separate
5) GlamFam - Rat tail comb on tight curls using wrapping foam to make comb coils
7) Manes by Mell - Denman brush, hand on the back of the brush for tension
8) Swavy Curly Courtney - Wet brush - upside down (!) - following with a wide tooth
comb
9) The Fit Curls - Denman brush using the handle for curl formation
Bowl Method
1) Fill a bowl with water. Start with freshly washed, and still wet, hair.
2) Bend forward, flip your hair over your face, and apply leave-in or curl cream to your
hair.
4) Dunk all of your hair into the bowl of water, lift up out the water, and scrunch your
hair being mindful that the water stays inside the bowl.
6) Glaze your hold product (mousse or gel) and scrunch out any excess water.
Micro-plop ends if desired.
Visual
Full length 1 minute video with audio.
Common Concerns
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Celebrity hair stylist Andre Walker created the Hair Chart in the 1990s to determine the
"type" of one's curl. We recommend not worrying about what type you are because:
1) It doesn't help you decide what products or techniques to use. You need to
determine your porosity and individual strand thickness.
2) It changes. With a better (or worse routine), naturally over time (aging), hormonal
changes, medication changes, etc.
The left image is fluffy, maybe a bit of curl. But the next picture is only a few months
later, following CG techniques and using only CG-approved products. The curl has
tightened!
3) Most people have a mix of curl types on their head, or don't neatly fit into a single
category. THIS IS NORMAL. 🙂 It can also appear a little different depending on
techniques used.
Porosity is far more important than curl type. This will affect your routine more than any
other detail about your hair.
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❖ Make sure you're getting enough product everywhere! Sometimes people think
the underside of their hair is straight, but when they are careful about adding
leave-in conditioner and gel down there it becomes just as curly as the rest.
❖ You could have a damaged canopy (outermost layer of your hair). Possible
solutions include a deep conditioning treatment with protein and/or flipping
your part.
❖ You can try pin curls or finger curling/rolling: where you use your fingers to curl
a piece, and then pin it up or coat it in gel to get it to stay. Brush styling is also
an option.
❖ The product recommendations are the same! Hair is hair regardless of length.
❖ Less than 2 inches: Gel can be harder to use on very short hair. Try using a very
small amount to help with definition. Oils, creams or custards may be more
beneficial.
❖ Less than 4 inches: Your hair pattern might not be very noticeable at this length. If
you’re a loose curly it won't curl for a while. Give it time!
❖ Plopping doesn’t work as well for short hair. Consider gently patting your hair with
a microfiber towel or an old t-shirt, or micro-plopping.
❖ More frequent refreshing may be needed after sleeping. Try using water only for
this, and sleep on a satin/silk pillowcase.
Despite the name, “The Curly Girl Method,” it’s not a gendered practice. All genders are
welcome to try the methods contained within this wiki. 🙂
4. What if I want to use heat to curl or straighten my hair?
5. My hair is heat and bleach damaged. Do I really have to cut it all off?
I won’t sugar coat this: you might have to cut off the damage and start healthy.
If you’ve read the section on the science behind hair, you know that the hair that you see
isn’t living. It is unable to repair itself. There are various treatments you can do to support
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“recovering” hair. If you’ve tried them, especially bond builders, and it’s been over a
significant length of time with no improvement, a haircut is what is best for your hair.
❖ Cruelty free products are marked as such in the Holy Grail list
❖ Use Curlscan to search for product categories that include or exclude certain
ingredients
❖ You can always try your local Reddit or Yelp page for the city that you live in. Just
search for “curly hair stylist.” Then call and ask for more details.
❖ Don’t be afraid to ask friends, family, or (politely) a stranger at the supermarket with
gorgeous hair where they get it done. If it feels natural, be sure to pay them a
compliment too!
The tricky part is if you haven’t started CG yet, your hair is probably not at its full potential,
and it’s impossible to tell what your natural curl looks like. And in a lot of cases, the goal
hair photo is highly styled (using heat, lots of products, etc.), meaning their look also isn’t
natural and possibly not realistic to expect at all.
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We typically don’t recommend finding your curl type, but this is probably the one situation
where it can be helpful. Try searching on google by hair type rather than searching “curly
hair styles.” Try to find a photo that is not of an actor or model.
There are lots of great styles for all curl types. We highly recommend learning to love
and care for your hair as it currently is.
“I can’t ever seem to manage it, or make it look like my friends who have silky, straight hair.
I don’t even know what kind of hair my mom has. She heat styles it every day and has had it
dyed my entire life. I saw old photos of my grandmother though and she had pretty spirals.
Could I have curly hair?”
YES! These are all actually curly hair that is being treated as though it’s straight:
Give our beginner routine a try and see if you can make your curls thrive!
Hard Water
Has your hair been increasingly frizzy, stiff/inflexible, brittle/breakage prone, tangle prone, and
dull? You could be dealing with hard water.
Hard water contains excess minerals such as calcium and magnesium that bind to hair in
the same way that conditioner does: the positively charged mineral ions are attracted to
the negatively charged surface of the hair shaft. The amount of minerals that can bind to
the hair shaft increases as the damage of the hair shaft and the pH increases.
Filters you can attach to your shower head do not have the ability to soften water
(except The ShowerStick). An in-home water softening system is required, utilizing a resin
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chamber that is frequently recharged with salt. They CAN remove minerals like chlorine
though.
❖ Disodium/Tetrasodium EDTA
❖ Pentasodium Pentetate
❖ Sodium Gluconate
You can read more about the science behind hard water and find DIY rinses here.
In a high humidity environment, water vapor will enter the hair. We’ve seen this when we go
to places like Florida in the summer: the hair acquires a rough/coarse/frizzy texture due to
the swelling of the hair fiber.
In a low humidity environment, water vapor will exit the hair. You can see this when you go
to places like Arizona in the winter: the hair becomes dry, unruly, frizzy and flyaway.
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➢ The air starts to feel “wet” and hair starts to become frizzy or limp
➢ Skin and hair are absorbing water from the environment in large amounts
Dew Point
Dew point is the temperature at which water vapor in the air will begin to condense into a
liquid. In other words, in order to reach 100% humidity (and rain), the air temperature has
to be lowered to this temperature. THIS value is actually more important than humidity. It is
listed in any weather app.
❖ 60°F-65°F is muggy
❖ 65°F-70°F is humid
➢ If your hair looks best in higher humidity, this is probably your “comfortable”
range
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Humectants
Humectants work best in average dew points (40°F-60°F) and tend to perform poorly
alone in higher or lower dew points. When applied to the hair, they work by attracting water
molecules to themselves.
Film forming humectants can be used in low dew points (<35°F) when regular
humectants may be problematic. These are humectants that are capable of forming a
flexible barrier over your hair fibers.
Emollients
Emollients are great for low dew points (<35°F), also average dew points (40°F-60°F), and
can be helpful in high dew points (>60°F). They are typically hydrophobic oils that act as
anti-humectants to seal the hair. When you experience build-up, it is likely due to the over
accumulation of emollients from your products.
Humidity resistant ingredients are great for high dew points (>60°F).These can work
even more effectively than emollients, and therefore may require periodic clarifying
shampoo to remove.
Common examples include: polyquaternium- (4, 10, 11, 69), polyamide-1, PVA/VP
Copolymer, VP/DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer, and polyacrylate-2 crosspolymer
Swimming Tips
Swimming can be a fun way to pass the summer 🙂
, but it can really do a number on curly
hair! 🙁 The main concerns with swimming are removing chlorine and fighting the
associated dryness.
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❖ Get your hair wet before you get in the pool, so that it will absorb regular water rather
than chlorinated water.
❖ If you swim frequently: consider washing with shampoo on days that you swim, but
co-washing on days that you don’t swim.
❖ If you do increase shampoo frequency, consider deep conditioning once a week (or as
often as you desire) with oils like argan, jojoba, or your favorite hair oils.
Note: Don't apply conditioner or oil to your hair before going in the water. It can interfere
with the pool chemistry making it more difficult to maintain without providing much benefit
to you. It can also cause your silicone swim cap to slip off your hair!
You can learn more about chlorine and even find a DIY home recipe for chlorine removal
using citric acid here.
Scalp Conditions
The following information is NOT medical advice and should NOT be used as a substitute
for information given to you by your medical doctor, dermatologist, or trichologist.
The first step to avoid scalp conditions is to keep the scalp healthy:
❖ Consider not oiling your scalp - use serums containing humectants like glycerin or
hyaluronic acid instead
❖ Avoid leaving your hair wet for long periods of time to maintain low pH (this includes
limiting your plopping time to no more than 30 minutes)
Should a scalp condition arise, it is important to know the root cause. Let’s take dandruff
as an example. According to the Mayo Clinic dandruff can be caused by:
❖ Dry skin
❖ Irritated/oily skin
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This is the problem with treating a symptom and not knowing the root cause.
If your dandruff is caused by dry skin, adding more moisture to the scalp could help.
Conversely, if your dandruff is caused by oily skin, adding more moisture would likely
exacerbate the situation. If your dandruff is secondary to an underlying skin condition,
adding or removing moisture has no impact.
To treat your dandruff, you might even need a special medicated shampoo, topical
antifungals or corticosteroids. This is why it is critically important to speak to a
medical professional before self-diagnosing or beginning treatment.
Kids’ Curls
Keep It Simple
❖ Cleanser + conditioner
➢ Do not use heavy, oil and butter filled products on fine kids’ hair
➢ Remember to be flexible! Kids can be messy and not stick to the script…
Limit Brushing
❖ Only brush hair when wet with conditioner applied
➢ Gripping the hair firmly, but gently, start detangling the ends
■ Move up towards the roots in small sections, ensuring that you can
pass the brush comfortably through any section that has already been
detangled before moving on to another section
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Although this guide is directed towards chemically damaged hair (i.e. from relaxers), most of the
advice is also true for recovering from heavily bleached hair and heat damaged hair as well.
Refrain from using hot tools such as curling/flat irons,and never use them on wet hair. Hair
that has been damaged from frequent chemical straightening is already weakened. Without
any heat protection:
You can read more about the science behind heat damage here.
Occasionally, you may find the need to apply heat to your hair. Use heat protectants to
minimize damage in these scenarios. Most heat protectants have silicones, and you’ll likely
need to use your clarifying shampoo after using them.
Quick Tips
❖ Use protein treatments, deep conditioners, and or bond builders every week or two to
counteract the damage and drying effects of chemical straightening.
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❖ Finger comb or use a wide-tooth comb to detangle. Hair brushes and regular combs
can put undue stress on already brittle hair and cause more breakage.
Black/mixed women are often pressured into pressing, flat ironing, hot combing and
chemically relaxing their natural hair. You can either wait for your hair to grow out while
wearing a protective style or just cut all of it off. Hence, big chop.
It's not just a haircut. It can be really emotional and stressful because black women are
often portrayed more negatively than other women (misogynoir).
A black woman embracing her natural hair is NOT just about looking good and feeling
confident. In addition to embracing self-love and body positivity, it's a fundamentally radical
act that implicitly (and often explicitly) rejects Euro-centric beauty norms and centuries of
targeted harm.
Sometimes, people use "big chop" thinking it's another "/r/curlyhair" term. The wording of
these posts makes it sound like it's just the cutting of a substantial length of hair, which is
different. It reaches far beyond that.
For folks who can’t do a reset haircut or a big chop, heatless styling methods can give your
roots and ends a similar curl pattern, and protective hairstyles can help keep your hair
manageable while waiting for it to grow out.
❖ braid outs
❖ twist outs
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❖ bantu knots
I know it is easier said than done, but practice patience. Hair takes time to grow, but it does
grow!
DIY Haircuts
Quick Tips
❖ Curls shrink
➢ You can always cut more, but you can’t undo a cut!
❖ If you have high density, undercuts could be a good option for reducing bulk
Visual
The following (listed alphabetically by poster) are numerous video links to various
techniques to try on multiple different curls. This is by no means an exhaustive list:
2) Curl Maven - Waterfall wolf cut (wet), rounded shape with volume for long hair
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❖ If possible, switch your method for putting your hair up daily to avoid breakage in
consistent places (e.g. braids vs pony, two braids instead of one, height of your
bun/pony, etc.)
❖ Wear your hair in looser styles or completely down when not at work.
❖ Braid your hair, use headbands, or put your hair up in a pineapple, bun, clip, twist,
or wrap and just leave it up during work.
Working Out
If you exercise regularly, try these tips to help maintain your curls:
❖ Braid your hair, use headbands, or put your hair up in a pineapple, bun, clip, twist,
or wrap and just leave it up during your workout.
Coloring/Dyeing
❖ Bleach WILL damage your hair. It immediately makes hair more porous - up to
30%! No way around it. It’s still fun though!!
❖ This may change what your hair prefers in terms of techniques and products.
❖ Add protein treatments before AND after color-treating hair to give it strength.
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❖ For tips on HOW to bleach your hair at home, check out this detailed post.
More Information
Content Creators
There are a number of content creators that are recurrently mentioned on r/curly hair that
have been instrumental in a number of our hair journeys. Feel free to check them out and
see if they have useful information for you (listed alphabetically, not an exhaustive list):
❖ Lab Muffin Beauty - Dr. Michelle Wong - (Blog) (Facebook) (Instagram) (TikTok)
(YouTube)
Additional Subreddits
Sometimes r/curlyhair isn’t the place for the question you are asking. Maybe you aren’t
getting the tailored advice you are really looking for, or maybe you are looking for another
community with other like-minded individuals to call home. The following is a list of related
subreddits with direct links and brief descriptions that you might find more valuable for
your specific question/circumstances (listed alphabetically, not exhaustive):
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❖ Best of Reddit
❖ r/ListOfSubreddits
❖ r/askablackperson - Black folks answering questions. Opinions may vary. We are not
a monolith.
❖ r/Balding - For men and women to discuss hair loss and hair restoration and ask the
important question: am I balding??
❖ r/Barber
❖ r/beards - Here to celebrate and show off our glorious beads, in which we dedicate
ourselves to the discipline and fine art of engineering.
❖ r/BlackHair - For Black Hair Admiration and Care. For anyone and everyone! All hair
types, all techniques, all levels of processing no matter the gender.
❖ r/cleanbeauty
❖ r/curlygirl - Dedicated to the Curly Girl Method of caring for wavy, curly, or coily hair.
We don’t care about gender, race, age, anything. We are here only to discuss our
hair.
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❖ r/FemaleHairLoss - For women who have experienced hair loss for any reason to
come together, discuss hair loss, share their experiences, and seek support.
❖ r/FierceFlow - For men with long(er) hair to share tips, progress pictures, anecdotes,
or anything else.
❖ r/finehair - Place for people with fine hair to ask to ask advice and share hair care
tips.
❖ r/HairDye - Community devoted to hair dye and dyed hair. Any posts of your dyed
hair, or questions relating to dying your hair are welcomed; Anything from Brown to
Rainbow.
❖ r/HairStyleAdvice - We give advice on your hair for men, women and all other
configurations of being.
❖ r/hairtype - Ask what your hairtype is, all hairtypes are welcome and anybody can
answer the question. Post pictures of your hair when wet/damp, preferably after
washing and conditioning it.
❖ r/locs - A place for loc’d people of African Descent to share their stories, advice and
pics.
❖ r/malehairadvice
❖ r/Naturalhair - All about going natural, hair porn, and other stuff too!
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❖ r/Trans - This is a safe space for transgender people to discuss their lives and issues
that surround them, find affirmation, and discover community.
❖ r/tressless - Most popular community for males and females coping with hair loss.
Feel free to discuss remedies, research, technologies, hair transplants, hair systems,
living with hair loss, cosmetic concealments, whether to “take the plunge” and shave
your head, and how your treatment progress or shaved head or hairstyle looks.
❖ r/Wavyhair - For all with naturally wavy hair to ask for, share, and receive tips, tricks,
techniques, suggestions, and guidance.
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