TheRibbyBalaclavaCrochetPatternPDF

The Ribby Balaclava
Thank you so much for being here! I hope you find this pattern to be easy and fun. If you have
trouble with any steps or notice any mistakes, please don’t hesitate to reach out! I would be
more than happy to make corrections or adjustments to this pattern.
At the end of the pattern, there is a guide for how to customize your balaclava size if you wish to
do so. I’m not very fond of having specific stitch counts and making gauge swatches, but I will
share approximate measurements of my pieces and assembled balaclava to give you an idea.
This will be included in the photos. If your measurements are slightly off from mine, don’t worry
about it too much as this pattern is very forgiving in that way.
The video tutorial for this pattern is linked at the end
*DISCLAIMER*
Please read before continuing
This pattern is for private use only. It is not to be rewritten and/or sold, either wholly or in part.
This design is not to be mass produced. You may sell your finished items but must provide
design credit.
This pattern is written in US terminology.
Difficulty: Intermediate
I recommend becoming familiar with all stitches used in this pattern before starting.
Materials needed:
-350-400 (150-170g) yds of worsted weight yarn (I used 348 yds in my finished item)
-(G) 4mm crochet hook
- 3.25mm or 3mm hook (optional but recommended)
- darning needle
- a pair of scissors
- stitch markers
Abbreviations/Stitches Used in This Pattern:

Ch - chain
St(s) - stitch(es)
fhdc - foundation half double crochet
Blo - back loop only
hdc - half double crochet
Blo hdc - back loop only half double crochet
Blo Hdc2together - back loop only half double crochet 2 together (stitch for decreasing)
SL st - slip stitch
We will be crocheting the following components for this balaclava:
- 2 Side panels
- 1 Back panel
- 1 Face framing ribbing piece
- 1 Drawstring
Side Panel (make two of these):

Use the 4mm hook for this. At the end of each row there will be a number in parenthesis
representing the stitch count for the row. Ex; (25)
Row 1 - fhdc 25 (25)

*you can substitute 25 fhdc with ch26, then hdc into the back bumps of the chains starting from
the 2nd chain from the hook*
Row 2 - ch 1, blo hdc in every st (25)
Row 3 - ch 42, hdc into 2nd ch from hook, continue to hdc down the chain,
then blo hdc into the sts from row 2 to finish the row (66)
Rows 4-13 - ch 1, blo hdc in every st (66)
Row 14 - ch 1, blo hdc until you have 2 sts of the row left. Blo Hdc2together the last 2 sts of the
row. (65) This is our first decrease. From here we will be alternating between full rows and rows
with a decrease. Every decrease should be happening on the same end, which is the top end of
the panel. See photo for clarification.
Row 16 - ch 1, blo hdc until there are 2 sts of the row left. Blo hdc2together the last 2 sts (64)
Row 18 - ch 1, blo hdc until there are 3 sts of the row left. Blo hdc2together the next 2 sts, and
SKIP THE VERY LAST STITCH (62)
Row 20 - ch 1 blo hdc until there are 3 sts of the row left. Blo hdc2together the next 2 sts and
skip the very last st (60)
Row 22 - ch 1, blo hdc until there are 3 sts of the row left. Blo hdc2together the next 2 sts and
skip the very last st (58)
Row 23 - ch 1, Blo hdc2together into the first 2 sts of the row, blo hdc all remaining sts (56)
Fasten off your yarn
Back Panel:
The back panel will run the length of the side panel starting from the bottom of the back side, to
the top of the front side. *refer to video for clarification*
Use 4 mm hook for this
Row 1 - fhdc 82 *feel free to do more or less to get the right length*
Rows 2-4 - ch 1, blo hdc in every st (82)
Fasten off yarn
Assembly:
Before we make our face framing ribbing, we’re going to assemble our 2 side panels and back
panel together. You will make the length of your face framing ribbing according to your needs,
so assembling the panels first will help you decide the right length. I will share my preferred
length and number of rows so feel free to follow that.
You can assemble the panels together using a sl st OR sewing them together with your darning
needle. I prefer to sl st as its easier undo if I make a mistake. Refer to photo or video to see how
to assemble the panels. You can use stitch markers to hold the pieces in place as you attach
them.
*Note* Whenever assembling pieces together, if using sl sts, make sure to sl st loosely so the
seam isn’t too tight. I also recommend making your sl sts into the back loops of the stitches of
both panels to keep the ribbed texture consistent.
Face framing ribbing:
This is where you can pull out your smaller hook. I used a 3.25mm hook, but you can use
3.5mm, 3mm, or the same 4mm hook that you made the panels with. I prefer my sts to be
tighter for this part so using a smaller hook is recommended but optional. My ribbing is usually
about 2.5 inches in length, so if you’re using a bigger hook and would like the same width, you
can adjust your stitch count of row 1 according to that measurement.
Ch 14
Row 1- hdc into the 2nd chain from the hook, and continue to hdc into the rest of the chain. (13)
Row 2 - 77 - ch 1, blo hdc in every st (13)
To finish, attach both ends of the ribbing together using a blo sl st
I did 77 rows, but please use less or more according to how big you want your face opening to
be. You should be able to wrap it around your face from your chin, over the top of your head and
meet back down to your chin without you having to stretch it. You will be able to tighten it with
your drawstring.
Drawstring:
Make a chain between 40-50 inches long, or as long as you prefer

I chose not to count sts here since it’s length based. If you’re not sure how long it should be, rest
your chain on the top of your head and let it dangle along the sides of your face. Make sure it’s
long enough to tie together with length to spare.
When you’re satisfied with your chain length, skip the first ch from the hook and sl st down the
entire length of the chain, then fasten off yarn to finish.
Finish Assembling:
Fold your face framing piece in half (long ways), and use st markers to fasten it into the face
opening (See photos or video)
You can sew it on using your yarn and darning needle or use a surface sl st to attach.
Install the drawstring:
Thread the drawstring through your yarn/darning needle (big plastic ones are perfect for this).
You want your drawstring ends to come out on either sides of your chin, not too far apart. Find a
good place between stitches to insert the needle and run it all the way through the ribbing and
back out on the other side of where your chin rests.
You can also install the drawstring into the ribbing BEFORE you attach it so that you don’t have
to go through the trouble of threading the drawstring through it. Please do whatever feels easier
for you.
Weave in your ends and you’re all done yay!
If you post a photo of your finished balaclava please tag me! I would LOVE to see it:)
@stackedstitches on IG and TikTok
Here is the link to the video tutorial:

https://youtu.be/HZnVeMFu2gc
The video is meant to be a supplement to this pattern. It goes through most of the steps but you
will need the written pattern to complete the balaclava. This video is not to be shared,
distributed or reuploaded in any way, shape, or form. This video link is not to be added to any
public YouTube playlist for others to view. It exists as an unlisted video that can only be
accessed via shared link. I have uploaded it in this way so that it can be easily accessed by all.
Please keep the link to yourself. Thank you!
How to customize your Ribby Balaclava:
If you would like more or less neck coverage, simply adjust your initial FHDC stitch count when
you start each side panel.
If you would like your face opening to be bigger, you can add more chains when starting row 3.
You can also adjust the length of your face framing ribbing accordingly.
If you would like to adjust the width of your face framing ribbing, adjust your chain length when
starting.
If you would like your hood to be more roomy and less fitted to your head, add a few more rows
to the side panel before starting the decreasing rows. For example, instead of doing your first
decrease at row 14, do your first decrease at row 16 instead. If you follow the same of pattern of
decreases written in the pattern, you will end up with 25 rows instead of 23. You can then make
your back panel as long as necessary to fit the length of the side panel.

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The Ribby Balaclava

The video tutorial for this pattern is linked at the end

This pattern is written in US terminology.

Abbreviations/Stitches Used in This Pattern:

Side Panel (make two of these):

Row 1 - fhdc 25 (25)

Use 4 mm hook for this

Face framing ribbing:

Row 2 - 77 - ch 1, blo hdc in every st (13)

To finish, attach both ends of the ribbing together using a blo sl st

Make a chain between 40-50 inches long, or as long as you prefer

Install the drawstring:

Weave in your ends and you’re all done yay!

Here is the link to the video tutorial:

How to customize your Ribby Balaclava:

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