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Exploring the Variety of Random
Documents with Different Content
 TAB. I.
Weight Diameter of powder. Saltpetre Brimstone charcoal.
of the the mould.
ball.
lb. oz. in. 1. pts lb. oz. lb. oz. lb. oz. lb. oz.
½ 0 6 3
1 0 7 8 }0
15 0 0 0 0 0 2
2 0 9 7
3 0 11 0 } 0
12 0 2 0 ½ 0 1½
4 1 0 1
5 1 1 0
6 1 1 10 } 1
3 0 12 0 4 0 1½
7 1 2 7
8 1 3 4
9 1 3 11
10 1 4 5
11 1 5 0
12 1 5 5
13 1 6 0
14 1 6 5
16 1 7 3 18 0 8 0 2 0 4 0
2 0 2 0 3
3 0 2 3 7 }0
0 60 0 2 0 15 0
4 0 2 6 9
5 0 2 8 8 }0
0 64 0 8 0 16 0
6 0 2 10 9
8 0 3 2 6 }0
0 35 0 5 0 10 0
10 0 3 5 4 0 0 62 0 9 0 20 0
12 0 3 7 10
15 0 3 11 4 } 0
0 32 0 8 0 16 0
17 0 4 1 5
20 0 4 4 2 } 0
0 64 0 12 0 16 0
27 0 4 9 9
30 0 4 11 6
40 0 5 5 1 } 0
0 30 0 7 0 18 0
60 0 6 3 3
100 0 7 5 3 } 0
0 30 0 10 0 20 0
 T A B . II.
The following table is taken from a late French author[2], whose
method of regulating the charges is according to the interior
diameter of the mould, which he divides into lines.
Interior Weight of Saltpetre. Brimstone. Charcoal.
diameter the rocket.
of the
mould.
Lines. lb. oz. dr. ounces. ounces. ounces.
6 0 0 4
7
8
0
0
0 6
1 1
} 44 4 16

9 0 1 5
10
11
0
0
2 2
3 0
} 40 4 16

12 0 3 7
13
14
0
0
4 6
6 1
} 38 4 16

15 0 7 4
16
17
0
0
9 1
11 0
} 36 4 16

18 0 13 1
19
19¼
0
1
15 4
0 0
} 34 4 16

21 1 7 1
24 1 15 1 32 5 16
30 4 0 0
36
72
6
55
9 0
8 0
} 30 6 18
 T A B . III.
A table of charges for sky-rockets in which the charges are adapted
in proportion to the weight of composition contained in each
rocket, after the method of Hanzelet.

Weight of Powder. Salt- Brim- Char-

composition. petre. stone. coal.

lb. oz. lb. oz. lb. oz. lb. oz. lb. oz.

0 1½ 0 4 0 1
or, 1 0 0 1½ 0 1½
0 2 0 4 0 1
or, 0 4 0 ½

}
0 4
1 0 0 4 0 4
8 0
or, 0 3 0 10 0 1 0 3
0 10 0 3½ 0 1 0 3½
1 0 1 0 0 1 0 2
or, 1 4 0 2 0 3½
3 0 1 14 7 7½ 0 11

}
6 0
31 0 4 8 10 0
7 0

}
8 0
8 0 1 8 2 12
10 0
 T A B . IV.
A table collected from Henrion, whose method of adjusting the
charges is the same as in the preceding table.
Weight of Powder. Salt- Brim- Char-
composition. petre. stone. coal.
lb. oz. lb. oz. lb. oz. lb. oz. lb. oz.
1
2 }1 0 0 2

or, 1 0 1 0 0 1
3 4½ 0 1 0 1
4
8 }4 0 1 0 0 ½ 0 4
1 8 0 4 0 2
or, 1 0 0 4 0 1
3 ½ 0 10 0 3½
8 ⎫ ⎧ 0 2 ⎫
⎬ 2 5 0 0 ⎨steel dust⎬ 0 6
10 ⎭ ⎩ 0 2 ⎭
12 17 0 0 4 | 0 3½ | 0 7
14 ⎫ ⎧ 0 3 ⎫
⎬ 2 8 0 9 ⎨steel dust⎬ 0 3
15 ⎭ ⎩ 0 3 ⎭
1 0 1 0 0 0 | 0 1 | 0 3
2 0 0 2 0 12 | 0 1 | 0 3
3 0 ⎫ ⎧ 1 4 ⎫
⎬ 0 0 8 0 ⎨steel dust⎬ 2 2
10 0 ⎭ ⎩ 0 2 ⎭
 T A B . V.
A table of charges for sky rockets, taken from the Memoires
D’Artillerie de M. de Saint Remy, with improvements by M. F***.
Composition for Composition for Composition for Composition for Composition for
a rocket of two a rocket of one a rocket of half a rocket of four a rocket of one
pound. pound. a pound. ounces. ounce and a
half.
Corrected by M. Corrected, Corrected, Corrected, six Corrected, one
F***, one eleven ounces. seven ounces ounces five ounce five
pound. and a half. drams. drams.
lb. oz. lb. oz. lb. oz. oz. oz.
Pow. 2 0 1 0 1 4 5 8 or 9
Saltp. 1 0 12 12 1 ⅕
Brimst. 5 2 1 ¼
Charc. 4 3 ½ ½ or 1
Steel-d. 2 2
Height of the Height of the Height of the Height of the Height of the
mould, nine mould, eight mould, seven mould seven mould, four
inches and a inches and a inches and a inches. inches and a
half. half. half. half.
Diameter of the Diameter of the Diameter of the Diameter of the Diameter of the
mould, one in. mould, one inch mould, one inch mould, one mould, nine
seven lines. five lines. three lines. inch two lines. lines.

French names for Sky Rockets.

Double Marquise. Grosse de De partement. Fusie de Caisse.
Marquise. partement.

Remarks on the foregoing Tables.

In table the first, we find that the compositions for all rockets
under one pound are made chiefly of gun-powder and charcoal,
which method has been long proved erroneous in many respects:
first, that rockets made with such charges will not keep long without
spoiling; secondly, that they are very uncertain in performing their
proper effect; thirdly, they will carry but a short tail, with a black and
smoaky fire.
We also find those charges for rockets above one pound, that are
composed of saltpetre, brimstone, and charcoal, to be too strong; by
which we should imagine that, at the time when they were used, the
piercers did not bear the same proportion to the rockets, as those
made use of by our present artists; for it is on the size of the cavity
in the composition, that the effect of the rocket and proportion of the
charge depends: which we shall endeavour to shew hereafter.
Table the second is given, by the author, as an improvement on
the first; wherein he takes notice of the charges being too many in
number; he has therefore reduced them to seven only, which,
according to his opinion, are sufficient for rockets of any size: he also
observes, that the ingredients are expressed in unequal quantities;
which he has likewise laid down in a more regular order. By the same
author’s account, rockets were made in France, not many years
since, with the compositions mentioned in his table. I shall not here
pretend to say, that rockets were not made with the charges given in
the above-mentioned table; yet can affirm, by practice and
experience, that several of them will not agree with our present
moulds.
As to the method prescribed in the third and fourth tables, it is
difficult to determine whether we shall praise or condemn it, as they
were wrote when the art of making fireworks was in it’s infancy; as
may be seen by their strange method of determining the proportion
of ingredients, and weight of rockets, by the quantity of composition
contained in each case; which must have required a very nice
calculation, for at that time, they had not fixed upon an exact length
for rockets, but made them from six to nine diameters long: all which
differ so much from our modern practice, that I never thought it
worth the trouble of making a trial: but am of opinion, that very few
of the charges will answer.
 In table the fifth, the compositions are in proportion to the weight
of the rocket, with it’s head and stick, all compleat; which head and
stick together are equal to the weight of the rocket, according to the
improvement made by M. F***, as may be seen by the second
column from the top; he also has added the diameters to the
moulds, in proportion to their height, allowing each six diameters,
which supposing to be right, the rockets will be nearly reduced to
half their weight given in the first column. On the charges in this
table I have made no experiment, therefore cannot recommend them
as proof.
Having already given a variety of charges for sky-rockets, in the
preceding tables, which are collected from the principal authors on
this subject, together with remarks on the same; I shall, in the next
place, according to my promise of not omitting any thing that may be
of service to the reader, add some compositions for rocket-stars of
several colours, as inserted by former authors.

Compositions for Stars of different Colours.

I. Meal powder four ounces, saltpetre two ounces, brimstone two
ounces, steel dust one ounce and a half, and camphor, white amber,
antimony, and mercury-sublimate, of each half an ounce.
II. Rochepetre ten ounces, brimstone, charcoal, antimony, meal
powder, and camphor, of each three quarters of an ounce, moistened
with oil of turpentine. These compositions are made into stars, by
being worked to a paste with aqua vitæ, in which has been dissolved
some gum-tragacanth; and after you have roll’d them in powder,
make a hole through the middle of each, and string them on quick-
match, leaving about two inches from one to the other.
III. Saltpetre eight ounces, brimstone two ounces, yellow amber
one ounce, antimony one ounce, and powder three ounces.
 IV. Brimstone two ounces and a half, saltpetre six ounces,
olibanum or frankincense in drops four ounces; mastick, and
mercury-sublimate, of each four ounces; meal powder five ounces;
white amber, yellow amber, and camphor, of each one ounce;
antimony and orpiment half an ounce each.
V. Saltpetre one pound, brimstone half a pound, and meal powder
eight ounces, moistened with potrolio-oil.
VI. Powder half a pound, brimstone and saltpetre, of each four
ounces.
VII. Saltpetre four ounces, brimstone two ounces, and meal
powder one ounce.

For Stars that carry Tails of sparks.

I. Brimstone six ounces, antimony crude two ounces, saltpetre
four ounces, and rosin four ounces.
II. Saltpetre, rosin, and charcoal, of each two ounces; brimstone
one ounce, and pitch one ounce.
These compositions are sometimes melted in an earthen pan, and
mixed with chopped cotton match, before they are rolled into stars,
but will do as well if wetted, and worked up in the usual manner.

Another Sort of Stars, which yield some Sparks.

I. Camphor two ounces, saltpetre one ounce, meal powder one
ounce.
II. Saltpetre one ounce, ditto melted half an ounce, and camphor
two ounces. When you would make stars of either of these
compositions, you must wet them with gum water, or spirit of wine,
in which has been dissolved some gum-arabick, or gum-tragacanth,
that the whole may have the consistence of a pretty thick liquid;
having thus done, take one ounce of lint, and stir it about in the
composition till it becomes dry enough to roll into stars.

For Stars of a yellowish Colour.

Take four ounces of gum-tragacanth or gum-arabick, pounded and
sifted thro’ a fine sieve, camphor dissolved in brandy two ounces,
saltpetre one pound, sulphur half a pound, coarse powder of glass
four ounces, white amber one ounce and a half, and orpiment two
ounces. All these ingredients being well incorporated, make them
into stars after the common method.

Stars of another Sort.

Take a pound of camphor and melt it in a pint of spirit of wine
over a slow fire; then add to it a pound of gum-arabick that has been
dissolved; with this liquor, mix one pound of saltpetre, six ounces of
sulphur, and five ounces of meal powder; and after you have stirred
them well together, roll them into stars proportionable to the rockets
for which you intend them.

Of the Colours produced by the different

Compositions.
As variety of fires adds greatly to a collection of works, it is
necessary that every artist should know the different effect of each
ingredient; for which reason, I shall here explain the colours they
produce of themselves; and likewise how to make them retain the
same when mixed with other bodies: as for example, sulphur gives a
blue, camphor a white or pale colour, saltpetre a clear white, yellow
amber a colour inclining to yellow, sal-armoniac a green, antimony a
reddish, rosin a copper colour, and greek-pitch a kind of bronze or
between red and yellow. All these ingredients are such as shew
themselves in a flame, viz.

For a white Flame.

Saltpetre, sulphur, meal powder, and camphor, the saltpetre must
be the chief part.

For a blue Flame.

Meal powder, saltpetre, and sulphur vivum, the sulphur must be
the chief part: or, meal powder, saltpetre, brimstone, spirit of wine,
and oil of spike; but let the powder be the principal part.

For a Flame inclining to Red.

Saltpetre, sulphur, antimony, and greek-pitch, the saltpetre the
chief part.
By the above method may be made various colours of fire, as the
practitioner pleases; for, by making a few trials, he may cause any
ingredient to be predominant in colour.

Of such Ingredients as shew themselves in Sparks

when rammed in choaked Cases.
The set colours of fire produced by sparks are divided into four
sorts, viz. the black, white, grey, and red; the black charges are
composed of two ingredients, which are meal powder and charcoal;
the white of three, viz. saltpetre, sulphur, and charcoal; the grey of
four, viz. meal powder, saltpetre, brimstone, and charcoal; and the
red of three, viz. meal powder, charcoal, and saw dust.
There are, besides these four regular or set charges, two others,
which are distinguished by the names of compound and brilliant
charges; the compound charge being made of many ingredients,
such as meal powder, saltpetre, brimstone, charcoal, saw dust,
seacoal, antimony, glass dust, brass dust, steel filings, cast iron,
tanner’s dust, &c. or any thing that will yield sparks; all which must
be managed with discretion. The brilliant fires are composed of meal
powder, saltpetre, brimstone, and steel dust; or with meal powder
and steel filings only.

How to make Cotton Quick-match.

Quick-match is generally made of such cotton as is put in candles,
of several sizes, from one to six threads thick, according to the pipes
it is designed for, which pipe must be large enough for the match,
when made, to be pushed in easily without breaking it. Having
doubled the cotton into as many threads as you think proper, coil it
very lightly into a flat-bottomed copper or earthen pan; then put in
the saltpetre and the liquor, and boil them together about twenty
minutes; after which, coil it again into another pan, as is shewn in
Fig. 4. and pour on it what liquor remains; then put in some meal
powder, and press it down with your hands, till it is quite wet;
afterwards place the pan before the wooden frame, Fig. 5, which
must be suspended by a point in the center of each end; and place
yourself before the pan, tying the upper end of the cotton to the end
of one of the sides of the frame.
When every thing is thus got ready, you must have one to turn
the frame round, while you let the cotton pass through your hands,
holding it very lightly, and at the same time keeping your hands full
of the wet powder; but if the powder should be too wet to stick to
the cotton, put more in the pan, so as to keep a continual supply till
the match is all wound up; you may wind it as close on the frame as
you please, so that it does not stick together; when the frame is full,
take it off the points, and sift dry meal powder on both sides the
match, till it appears quite dry: in winter the match will be a fortnight
before it is fit for use; when it is thoroughly dry, cut it along the
outside of one of the sides of the frame, and tie it up in skains for
use.
N. B. The match must be wound tight on the frames.

Ingredients for the Match.

Cotton one pound twelve ounces, saltpetre one pound, spirit of
wine two quarts, water three quarts, isinglass three gills, and meal
powder ten pound. To dissolve four ounces of isinglass, take three
pints of water.
 S E C T . III.

Of Sky-rocket Moulds.

A
sthe performance of rockets depends much on their moulds, it is
requisite to give a definition of them and their proportions, which
are as follows: They are made and proportioned by the diameter
of their orifice, which is divided into six equal parts: as for example,
Fig. 6. represents a mould made by its diameter A B, its height from
C to D is six diameters and two thirds; from D to E is the height of
the foot, which is one diameter and two thirds; F the choak, or
cylinder, whose height is one diameter and one third; it must be
made out of the same piece as the foot, and fit tight in the mould; G
an iron pin that goes through the mould and cylinder, to keep the
foot fast; H the nipple, which is half a diameter high, and two thirds
thick, and of the same piece of metal as the piercer I, whose height
is three diameters and a half, and at the bottom is one third of the
diameter thick, and from thence tapering to one sixth of the
diameter: the best way to fix the piercer in the cylinder, is to make
that part below the nipple long enough to go quite through the foot,
and rivet it at the bottom. Fig. 7. is a former or rowler for the cases,
whose length, from the handle, is seven diameters and a half, and its
diameter two thirds of the bore A B; 8. the end of the former, which
is of the same thickness and one diameter and two thirds long, the
small part; which fits into the hole In the end of the rowler when the
case is pinching, is one sixth and a half of the mould’s diameter thick.
Fig. 9, the first drift, which must be six diameters from the handle,
and this as well as all other rammers must be a little thinner than the
former, to prevent the sacking of the paper, when you are driving in
the charge: in the end of this rammer is a hole to fit over the piercer;
the line K marked on this is two diameters and one third from the
handle, so that when you are filling the rocket, this line appears at
top of the case; you must then take the second rammer, 10, which
from the handle is four diameters; and the hole for the piercer is one
diameter and a half long. Fig. 11. is the short and solid drift which
you use when you have filled the case as high as the top of the
piercer.
It is to be observed, that all rammers must have a collar of brass
at the bottom, to keep the wood from spreading or splitting; and that
the same proportion be given to all moulds, from one ounce to six
pound. I mentioned nothing concerning the handles of the rammers;
however, if their diameter be equal to the bore of the mould, and two
diameters long, it will be a very good proportion; but the shorter you
can use them the better, for the longer the drift, the less will be the
pressure on the composition, by the blow given with the mallet.
 A Table of Dimensions for Rocket Moulds, in which
the Rockets are rammed solid.
Weight Length of Interior Height
of the moulds diameter of of the
rockets. without the nipples.
their feet. moulds.
lb. oz. Inches. Inches. Inches.
6 0 34·7 3·5 1·5
4 0 38·6 2·9 1·4
2 0 13·35 2·1 1·0
1 0 12·25 1·7 0·85
0 8 10·125 1·333 &c. 0·6
0 4 7·75 1·125 0·5
0 2 6·2 0·9 0·45
0 1 4·9 0·7 0·35
0 ½ 3·9 0·55 0·25
6 drams 3·5 0·5 0·225
4 drams 2·2 0·3 0·2

The diameter of the nipple must always be equal to that of the

former.
I have omitted the thickness of the moulds, it being very
immaterial, provided they are substantial and strong.
I would not advise any one who makes rockets for his private
amusement, to ram them solid, for it requires a very skilful hand, and
an expensive apparatus for boring them, which will be shewn
herereafter. Driving of rockets solid is the most expeditious method,
but not so certain as ramming them over a piercer, which I have
found by experience.

Of Moulds for Wheel Cases, or Serpents.

 Fig. 12. represents a mould in which the cases are drove solid; L
the nipple[3], with a point[4] at top, which, when the case is filling,
serves to stop the neck, and prevent the composition from falling out,
which without this point it would do; and, in consequence, the air
would get into the vacancy in the charge, and at the time of firing
cause the case to burst. These sort of moulds are made of any length
or diameter, according as the cases are required, but the diameter of
the rollers must be equal to half the bore, and the rammers made
quite solid.

How to roll Rocket and other Cases.

Sky rocket cases are to be made six and a half of their exterior
diameter long, and all other cases that are to be filled in moulds must
be as long as the moulds, within half its interior diameter.
Rocket cases, from the smallest to four or six pound, are generally
made of the strongest sort of cartridge paper, and rolled dry; but the
large sort are made of pasted paste-board. As it is very difficult to roll
the ends of the cases quite even, the best way will be to keep a
pattern of the paper for the different sorts of cases, which pattern
should be somewhat longer than the case it is designed for, and on it
marked the number of sheets required, which will prevent any paper
being cut to waste: having cut your papers of a proper size, and the
last sheet for each case with a slope at one end, so that when the
cases are rolled it may form a spiral line round the outside, and that
this slope may always be the same, let the pattern be so cut for a
guide: before you begin to roll, fold down one end of the first sheet,
so far that the fold will go two or three times round the former; then,
on the double edge, lay the former with its handle off the table, and
when you have rolled on the paper, within two or three turns, lay, on
that part which is loose, the next sheet, and roll it all on.
Having thus done, you must have a smooth board, about twenty
inches long, and equal in breadth to the length of the case; in the
middle of this board must be a handle placed length-ways; under this
board lay your case, and let one end of the board lay on the table;
then press hard on it, and push it forwards, which will roll the paper
very tight; do this three or four times before you roll on any more
paper: this must be repeated every other sheet of paper, till the case
is thick enough; but if the rolling board be drawn backwards, it will
loosen the paper: you are to observe, when you roll on the last
sheet, that the point of the slope be placed at the small end of the
roller. Having rolled your case to fit the mould, push in the small end
of the former F, about one diameter from the end of the case, and
put in the end piece within a little distance of the former; then give
the pinching cord one turn round the case, between the former and
the end piece; at first pull easy, and keep moving the case, which will
make the neck smooth, and without large wrinkles; when the cases
are hard to choak, let each sheet of paper (except the first and last in
that part where the neck is formed) be a little moistened with water:
immediately after you have struck the concave stroke, bind the neck
of the case round with small twine, which must not be tied in a knot,
but fastened with two or three hitches.
Having thus pinched and tied the case so as not to give way, put it
into the mould without it’s foot, and, with a mallet, drive the former
hard on the end piece, which will force the neck close and smooth;
this being done, cut the case to its proper length, allowing from the
neck to the edge of the mouth half a diameter, which is equal to the
height of the nipple; then take out the former, and drive the case
over the piercer with the long rammer, and the vent will be of a
proper size. Wheel cases must be drove on a nipple with a points in
order to close the neck, and make the vent of the size required;
which, in most cases, is generally one fourth of their interior
diameter: as it is very often difficult, when the cases are rolled, to
draw the roller out, you may make a hole through the handle, and
put in it a small iron pin, by which you may easily turn the former
round, and pull it out. Fig. 17. shews the method of pinching cases; P
a treddle, which, when pressed hard with the foot, will draw the cord
tight, and force the neck as close as you please; Q a small wheel or
pully, with a groove round it for the cord to run in.
Cases are commonly rolled wet, for wheels and fixed pieces; and
when they are required to contain a great length of charge, the
method of making those sort of cases is as follows: Your paper must
be cut as usual, only the last sheet must not be cut with a slope;
having your paper ready, paste each sheet on one side, then fold
down the first sheet as before directed, but be careful that the paste
does not touch the upper part of the fold, for if the roller be wetted,
it will tear the paper in drawing it out: in pasting the last sheet,
observe not to wet the last turn or two in that part where it is to be
pinched, for if that part be damp, the pinching cord will stick to it,
and tear the paper; therefore, when you choak those cases; roll a bit
of dry paper once round the case, before you put on the pinching
cord; but this bit of paper must be taken off after the case is
choaked. The rolling board, and all other methods, according to the
former directions for the rolling and pinching of cases, must be used
to these as well as all other cases.

To make Tourbillon Cases.

Those sorts of cases are generally made about eight diameters
long, but if very large, seven diameters will be sufficient: tourbillons
will answer very well from four ounces to two pound, but when larger
there is no certainty. The cases are best rolled wet with paste, and
the last sheet must have a streight edge, so that the case may be all
of a thickness: when you have rolled your cases, after the manner of
wheel cases, pinch them at one end quite close; then, with the
rammer, drive the ends down flat, and afterwards ram in about one
third of a diameter of dryed clay. The diameter of the former for
these cases must be the same as for sky rockets.
N. B. Tourbillons are to be rammed in moulds without a nipple, or in
a mould without its foot.
 To make Balóón Cases, or Paper Shells.
First you must have an oval former turned of smooth wood; then
paste a quantity of brown or cartridge paper, and let it lay till the
paste has quite soaked through; this done, rub the former with soap
or grease, to prevent the paper from sticking to it; then lay the paper
on in small slips, till you have made it one third of the thickness of
the shell intended; having thus done, set it to dry, and when dry, cut
it round the middle, and the two halves will easily come off; but
observe, when you cut, to leave about one inch not cut, which will
make the halves join much better than if quite separated; when you
have some ready to join, place the halves even together, and paste a
slip of paper round the opening to hold them together, and let that
dry; then lay on paper all over as before, every where equal,
excepting that end which goes downwards in the mortar, which may
be a little thicker than the rest; for that part which receives the blow
from the powder in the chamber of the mortar consequently requires
the greatest strength: when the shell is thoroughly dry, burn a round
vent at top, with square iron, large enough for the fuze: this method
will do for balóóns from four inches two fifths, to eight inches
diameter; but if they are larger, or required to be thrown a great
height, let the first shell be turn’d of elm, instead of being made of
paper.
For a ballóón of four inches two fifths, let the former be three
inches one eighth diameter, and five inches and a half long. For a
ballóón of five inches and a half, the diameter of the former must be
four inches, and eight inches long. For a ballóón of eight inches, let
the diameter of the former be five inches and fifteen sixteenths, and
eleven inches seven eighths long. For a ten inch ballóón, let the
former be seven inches three sixteenths diameter, and fourteen
inches and a quarter long. The thickness of a shell for a ballóón of
four inches two fifths, must be half an inch. For a ballóón of five
inches and a half, let the thickness of the paper be five eighths of an
inch. For an eight inch ballóón seven eighths of an inch. And for a ten
inch ballóón, let the shell be one inch and one eighth thick.
 Shells that are designed for stars only, may be made quite round,
and the thinner they are at the opening the better; for if they are too
strong, the stars are apt to break at the bursting of the shell: when
you are making the shell, make use of a pair of calibers, or a round
gauge, so that you may not lay the paper thicker in one place than
another; and also to know when the shell is of a proper thickness;
ballóóns must always be made to go easy into the mortars.

Of the Method of mixing Compositions.

The performance of the principal part of fireworks depends much
on the compositions being well mixed; therefore great care ought to
be taken in this part of the work, particularly in the compositions for
sky rockets. When you have four or five pounds of ingredients to mix,
which is a sufficient quantity at a time (for a larger proportion will not
do so well), first put the different ingredients together, then work
them about with your hands, till you think they are pretty well
incorporated; after which put them into a lawn sieve with a receiver
and top to it; and if, after it is sifted, any remains that will not pass
through the sieve, grind it again till fine enough; and if it be twice
sifted it will not be amiss; but the compositions for wheels and
common works are not so material, nor need not be so fine. But in all
fixed works, from which the fire is to play regular, the ingredients
must be very fine, and great care taken in mixing them well together;
and observe that, in all compositions wherein are steel or iron filings,
the hands must not touch, nor will any works, which have iron or
steel in their charge, keep long in damp weather, without being
properly prepared, according to the directions given in the following
article.

How to preserve Steel or Iron Filings.

 It sometimes may happen, that fireworks may be required to be
kept a long time, or sent abroad; neither of which could be done with
brilliant fires, if made with filings unprepared; for this reason, that
the saltpetre being of a damp nature, it causes the iron to rust, the
consequence of which is, that when the works are fired, there will
appear but very few brilliant sparks, but instead of them a number of
red and drossy sparks, and besides, the charge will be so much
weakened, that if this should happen to wheels, the fire will hardly be
strong enough to force them round: but to prevent such accidents,
prepare your filings after the following manner.
Melt in a glazed earthen pan some brimstone over a slow fire, and
when melted throw in some filings; which keep stirring about till they
are covered with brimstone, this you must do while it is on the fire;
then take it off, and stirr it very quick till cold, when you must roll it
on a board with a wooden roller, till you have broke it as fine as corn
powder; after which sift from it as much of the brimstone as you can.
There is another method of preparing filings, so as to keep two or
three months in winter; this may be done by rubbing them between
the strongest sort of brown paper, which before has been moistened
with linseed oil.
N. B. If the brimstone should take fire, you may put it out, by
covering the pan close at top: it is not of much signification what
quantity of brimstone you use, so that there is enough to give each
grain of iron a coat, but as much as will cover the bottom of a pan,
of about one foot diameter, will do for five or six pound of filings:
cast iron for gerbes may be preserved by the above method.

The Method of Driving or Ramming Sky Rockets, &c.

Rockets which are drove over a piercer must not have so much
composition put in them at a time, as when drove solid, for the
piercer, taking up great part of the bore of the case, would cause the
rammer to rise too high: so that the pressure of it would not be so
great on the composition, nor would it be drove every where equal:
to prevent which, observe the following rule; that for those rockets,
that are rammed over a piercer, let the ladle[5] hold as much
composition as when drove, will raise the drift one half the interior
diameter of the case, and for those drove solid to contain as much as
will raise it half the exterior diameter of the case: ladles are generally
made to go easy in the case, and the length of the scoop about one
and a half of its own diameter.
The charge of rockets must always be drove one diameter above
the piercer, and on it must be rammed one third of a diameter of clay,
through the middle of which bore a small hole to the composition, in
order that, when the charge is burnt to the top, it may communicate
its fire, through the hole, to the stars in the head: great care must
always be taken, to strike with the mallet, and with an equal force,
the same number of strokes to each ladle-ful of charge; otherwise
the rockets will not rise with an uniform motion, nor will the
composition burn equal and regular; for which reason they cannot
carry a proper tail, for it will break before the rocket has got half way
up; instead of reaching from the ground to the top, where the rocket
breaks and disperses the stars, rains, or whatever is contained in the
head. When you are ramming, keep the drift constantly turning or
moving; and when you use the hollow rammers, knock out of them
the composition now and then, or the piercer will split them: to a
rocket of four ounces, give to each ladle-ful of charge sixteen
strokes: to a rocket of eight ounces twenty-one strokes: to a rocket
of one pound, twenty eight: to a two pounder, thirty-six: to a four
pounder forty-two: and to a six pounder fifty strokes; but rockets of a
larger sort cannot be drove well by hand, but must be rammed with a
machine made in the same manner as those for driving piles, which
are so very common to be seen, that I shall here omit giving a
description of them.
The method of ramming of wheel cases, or any other sort, in
which the charge is drove solid, is much the same as sky rockets; for
the same proportion may be observed in the ladle, and the same
number of strokes given, according to their diameters, all cases being
distinguished by their diameters; in this manner, a case whose bore is
equal to a rocket of four ounces is called a four ounce case, and that
which is equal to an eight ounce rocket an eight ounce case, and so
on, according to the different rockets.
Having taught the method of ramming cases in moulds; we shall
here say something concerning those filled without moulds, which
method, for strong pasted cases, will do extremely well, and save the
expence of making so many moulds. The reader must here observe,
when he fills any sort of cases, to place the mould on a perpendicular
block of wood, and not on any place that is hollow, for we have found
by experience, that when cases were rammed on driving benches,
which were formerly used, the works frequently miscarried, on
account of the hollow resistance of the benches, which often jarred
and loosened the charge in the cases; but this accident has never
happened since the driving blocks[6] have been used.
When cases are to be filled without moulds, proceed thus; have
some nipples made of brass or iron, of several sorts and sizes, in
proportion to the cases, and to screw or six in the top of the driving
block; when you have fixed in a nipple, make, at about one inch and
a half from it, a square hole in the block, six inches deep and one
inch diameter; then have a piece of wood, six inches longer than the
case intended to be filled and two inches square; on one side of it cut
a groove almost the length of the case, whose breadth and depth
must be sufficient to cover near half the case; then cut the other end
to fit the hole in the block, but take care to cut it so that the groove
may be of a proper distance from the nipple: this half mould being
made and fixed tight in the block, cut, in another piece of wood
nearly of the same length as the case, a groove of the same
dimensions as that in the fixed piece; then put the case on the
nipple, and with a cord tie it and the two half moulds together, and
your case will be ready for filling.
The dimensions of the above described half moulds, are
proportionable for cases of eight ounces; but notice must be taken,
that they differ in size in proportion to the cases.
Note, the clay, mentioned in this article, must be prepared after this
manner; get some clay, in which there is no stones nor sand, and
bake it in an oven till quite dry; then take it out and beat it to a
powder, and afterwards sift it through a common hair sieve, and it
will be fit for use.

Of the Proportion of Mallets.

The best wood for mallets is dry beech, though some have
preferred other sorts of woods and have likewise pretended to
determine their exact weight, which is not of much signification;
however, for the better instruction of those who have not made a
great progress in this art, I shall here give a good proportion for
mallets; but at the same time would have every practitioner know,
that if he makes use of a common mallet, of a moderate size, in
proportion to the rocket, according to his judgment, and if that rocket
succeeds, he may depend on the rest, by using the same mallet; yet
it will be necessary that cases of different sorts be drove with mallets
of different sizes.
The following proportion of the mallets for rockets of any size,
from one ounce to six pound, may be observed; but as rockets are
seldon made less than one ounce, or larger than six pound, I shall
leave the management of them to the curious; but all cases under
one ounce, may be rammed with an ounce rocket mallet. Your
mallets will strike more solid, by having their handles turned out of
the same piece as the head, and made in a cylindrical form: let their
dimensions be worked by the diameters of the rockets: for example;
let the thickness of the head be three diameters, and its length four,
and the length of the handle five diameters, whose thickness must be
in proportion to the hand.
Of the Proportion of Sky Rockets, with the Manner of
heading them.
Fig. 13. represents a rocket compleat without its stick, whose
length from the neck is five diameters one sixth; the cases should
always be cut to this length, after they are filled: M the head, which
is two diameters high, and one diameter one sixth and a half in
breadth; N the cone or cap, whose perpendicular height must be one
diameter one third. Fig. 14. is the collar to which the head is fixed;
this is turned out of deal or any light wood, and its exterior diameter
must be equal to the interior diameter of the head; one sixth will be
sufficient for its thickness, and round the outside edge must be a
groove; the interior diameter of the collar must not be quite so wide
as the exterior diameter of the rocket; when this is to be glued on
the rocket, you must cut two or three rounds of paper off the case,
which will make a shoulder for it to rest upon. Fig. 15, a former for
the head; two or three rounds of paper well pasted will be enough
for the head, which, when rolled, put the collar on that part of the
former marked O, which must fit the inside of it; then with the
pinching cord, pinch the bottom of the head into the groove, and tie
it with small twine. Fig. 16, represents a former for the cone. To
make the caps, cut your paper in round pieces, equal in diameter to
twice the length of the cone you intend to make; which pieces being
cut into halves, will make two caps each, without wasting any paper;
having formed the caps, paste over each of them a thin white paper,
which must be a little longer than the cone, so as to project about
half an inch below the bottom; this projection of paper, being notch’d
and pasted, serves to fasten the cap to the head.
 Plate. 1

When you load the heads of your rockets with stars, rains,
serpents, crackers, scroles, or any thing else, according to your
fancy; remember always to put one ladle-ful of meal powder, into
each head, which will be enough to burst the head, and disperse the
stars or whatever is contained therein: when the heads are loaded
with any sort of cases, let their mouths be placed downwards; and
after the heads are filled, paste on the top of them a piece of paper,
before you put on the caps. As the size of stars often differ, it would
be needless to give an exact number for each rocket, but this rule
may be observed, that the heads may be nearly filled with whatever
they are loaded.

Of the Decorations for Sky Rockets.

 Sky rockets bearing the pre-eminence of all fireworks, it will not be
improper to treat of their various kinds of decorations which are
directed according to fancy; some are headed with stars of different
sorts, such as tailed stars, brilliant stars, white stars, blue and yellow
stars, &c. some with gold and silver rain; others with serpents,
crackers, fire-scroles, marrons; and some with small rockets, and
many other devices, as the maker pleases.
 Dimensions and Poise of Rocket Sticks.
Weight Length of Thickness Breadth Square at Poize
of the the stick. at top. at top. bottom. from the
rocket. point of
the cone.
lb. oz. ft. in. Inches. Inches. Inch. ft. in.
6 0 14 0 1·5 1·85 0·75 4 1·5
4 0 12 10 1·25 1·40 0·625 3 9·
2 0 9 4 1·125 1· 0·525 2 9·
1 0 8 2 0·725 0·80 0·375 2 1·
8 6 6 0·5 0·70 0·25 1 10·5
4 5 3 0·3750 0·55 0·35 1 8·5
2 4 1 0·3 0·45 0·15 1 3·
1 3 6 0·25 0·35 0·10 11 0·
½ 2 4 0·125 0·20 0·16 8 0·
¼ 1 10½ 0·1 0·15 0·5 5 0·5

The last column on the right in the above table, expresses the
distance from the top of the cone, where the stick, when tied on,
should ballance the rocket, so as to stand in an equilibrium on one’s
finger or the edge of a knife. The best wood for the sticks is dry deal,
made after the following manner; when you have cut and planed the
sticks according to the dimensions given in the table, cut on one of
the flat sides at top, a groove the length of the rocket, and as broad
as the stick will allow; then on the opposite flat side, cut two notches
for the cord, which ties on the rocket, to lay in; one of these notches
must be near the top of the stick, and the other facing the neck of
the rockets; the distance between these notches may easily be
known, for the top of the stick should always touch the head of the
rocket. When your rockets and sticks are ready, lay the rockets in the
grooves in the sticks and tie them on. Those who, merely for
curiosity, may chose to make rockets of different sizes, to what I have
expressed in the table of dimensions, may find the length of their
sticks, by making them for rockets, from half an ounce to one pounds
sixty diameters of the rocket long; and for rockets above one pound,
fifty or fifty-two diameters will be a good length; their thickness at
top may be about half a diameter, and their breadth a very little
more; their square at bottom is generally equal to half the thickness
at top. But, although the dimensions of the sticks be very nicely
observed, you must depend only on their ballance: for, without a
proper counterpoise, your rockets, instead of mounting
perpendicularly, will take an oblique direction, and fall to the ground
before they are burnt out.

The Method of Boring Rockets which have been drove

solid.
Plate 2, Fig. 18, represents the plan of an apparatus, or lath, for
boring of rockets; A the large wheel which turns the small one B, that
works the reammer C: these reammers are of different sizes
according to the rockets; they must be of the same diameter as the
top of the bore intended, and continue that thickness a little longer
than the depth of the bore required, and their points must be like
that of an auger; the thick end of each reammer must be made
square and all of the same size, so as to fit into one socket, wherein
they are fastened by a screw D: E the guide for the reammer, which
is made to move backwards and forwards; so that after you have
marked the reammer three diameters and a half of the rocket from
the point, set the guide, allowing for the thickness of the fronts of the
rocket boxes, and the neck and mouth of the rocket, so that when
the front of the large box is close to the guide, the reammer may not
go too far up the charge; F, boxes for holding the rockets, which are
made so as to fit one in another; their sides must be equal in
thickness to the difference of the diameters of the rockets, and their
interior diameters equal to the exterior diameters of the rockets. To
prevent the rockets turning round while boring, a piece of wood must
be placed against the end of the box in the inside, and pressed
against the tail of the rocket; this will also hinder the reammer from
forcing the rocket backwards. G, a rocket in the box. H, a box that
hides under the rocket boxes to receive the borings from the rockets,
which falls through holes made on purpose in the boxes; these holes
must be just under the mouth of the rocket, one in each box, and all
to correspond with each other.
Fig. 19, is a front view of the large rocket box. I, an iron plate, in
which are holes of different sizes, through which the reammer
passes; this plate is fastened with a screw in the center, so that when
you change the reammer, you turn the plate round, but always let the
hole you are going to use be at the bottom; the fronts of the other
boxes must have holes in them to correspond with them in the plate.
K, the lower part of the large box, which is made to fit the inside of
the lathe, in order that all the boxes may move quite steady.
Fig. 20, is a perspective view of the lathe. L, the guide for the
reammer, which is set by the screw at bottom.
Fig. 21, a view of the front of the guide facing the reammer. M, an
iron plate, of the same dimensions as that on the front of the box,
and placed in the same direction, and also to turn on a screw in the
center. N, the rocket box, which slides backwards and forwards: when
you have fixed a rocket in the box, push it forwards against the
reammer; and when you think the scoop of the reammer is full, draw
the box back, and knock out the composition; this you must do till
the rocket is bored, or it will be in danger of taking fire; and if you
bore in a hurry, wet the end of the reammer now and then with oil to
keep it cool.
Having bored a number of rockets, you must have taps of different
sorts according to the rockets. These taps are a little longer than the
bore, but when you use them, mark them three diameters and a half
from the point, allowing for the thickness of the rocket’s neck; then,
holding the rocket in one hand, you tap it with the other. In order to
explain these taps, I have represented one by Fig. 22. They are made
in the same proportion as the fixed piercers, and are hollowed their
whole length.