Republic of the Philippines

Commission on Higher Education

Region V (Bicol)
Polangui Community College
Polangui, Albay

Subject: Basic Sewing Process

Lesson: Seams and Seam Finish
Instructor: Mark Anthony N. Rafallo

LEARNING OUTCOMES
At the end of this module, you are expected to,
a. Make a cloth sample of the different seams and seams finishes.

INTRODUCTION
In this lesson, you will learn the different seams and seam finishes and make a cloth sample of the
different seams and seams finishes. Please read the materials in this module and be sure to follow
the instructions of each activity so that you will achieve your learning goals.

Seams and Seam Finishes

Seams
Seam is a method of joining two or more
pieces of material together by a row of
stitching. In garment construction, one of
the major steps is the joining of different
sections by seams. The purpose of most of
these seams is purely functional and we call
them constructional seams. (Example:
shoulder seam, side seam, under arm seam,
waistline seam etc.)These should be as
inconspicuous as possible. However there
are some seams which are used for
decorative purposes; these are made
conspicuous in order to give the garment design and line (example: piped
seam, slot seam). The stitching line along the seam is called the seam line. The
seam allowance (SA) is the space between the fabric edge and the seam line.
Standards of a Seam
A well-constructed seam should be:
• Smooth and even in appearance on the inside and outside. (Properly adjust
machine tension, stitch length, and presser foot pressure to suit the fabric and
thread. Make sure fabric does not pucker.) • Even in width throughout.
• Pressed open or closed according to the type of seam and how it is used in
the construction process.
• If stitched with thread, the thread should be appropriate to the fabric type
and fiber content. (Thread color should match or be slightly darker.)

Types of Seams
The commonly used seams are:
(1)Plain seam (finished or unfinished)
(2) Top stitched seam
(3) Flat fell seam
(4) French seam
(5) Mantua maker's seam and
(6) Piped seam.
Seams can be classified as follows:

Seams

Flat seams Ridge seams

Plain seam
French seam
Top stitched sea ms
Flat fell seam Mantua maker's seam
Piped seam

Seams

Conspicuous Inconspicuous
seams seams
Plain seam
Top stitched seams
French seams
Flat fell seam
Mantua maker's seam
Piped seam

Seams may be classified into flat seams and ridge seams. Plain seam and flat fell
seam are examples of flat seams. Ridge seams include the French seam and
Mantua maker's seam. Seams may also be divided into conspicuous and
inconspicuous seam. Conspicuous seams are visible on the right side of the
garment. When inconspicuous seams like plain seam and French seam are
finished no stitches will be visible on the right side of the fabric.
Factors influencing the Choice of Seams
The type of seam to be used on a garment will depend on various factors. The
most important ones are listed below, with examples illustrating their roles in the
choice of the seam to be used.
(1)Texture and durability of the fabric: When working with a heavy fabric, for
example, you should avoid bulky seams like French seam.
(2) Design and use of the garment: When making a boys’ sports shirt, a strong
seam like flat fell seam should be used.
(3)Shape of the seam: Seams maybe straight or curved. Straight seams may be in
vertical, horizontal or slanting directions on the dress. When joining curved edges,
plain seam will give a better finish than French seam or any other types of seams.
(4)Location of the seam in the garment: Seams in parts of the garment which
may get stretched during body movement will have to be made more durable than
others.
(5)Sewing Machine: The choice of seam may depend on the type of attachments
a sewing machine has. If one has a serge or zig-zag machine one has more choice
than a simple straight stitch machine.
(6)Current fashion: The modern trend determines which seam is to be used.
Some prefer simple seam that produces a graceful and well-fitting garment.

TYPES OF COMMONLY USED SEAMS:

Plain seam (Fig. A): A plain seam is joining
two pieces of fabric face-to face by a row of
machine through both pieces that leaves the
seam allowance raw. It is also called as single
needle butterfly stitch as once the seam is made
the seam allowance are pressed open to either
side of the seam line to look like a butterfly.
This is the most widely used seam because it is easy to make, requires less time
and is pliable and inconspicuous. It is used on all types of fabrics except on very
transparent kinds, and is especially suitable for firm fabrics that do not ravel and
will not be subjected to hard and frequent laundering.
On skirts, coats, petticoats, blouses etc. plain seam is used especially for side
seams, under arm seams and armhole seams. Various methods of finishing the raw
edges of a plain seam are pinked finish, edge stitched finish, double stitch finish,
overcast finish etc.
Top stitched seam (Fig. B-F): Top stitching is a sewing technique where the line
of stitching is seen on the right side of the garment. Top stitching adds strength
and decoration to the seam. It can also be used to attach details like pockets. The
five top stitched seams are: Single top stitching, Double top stitching, Welt seam
/Mock flat fell seam, Lapped seam/Tucked seam and Slot seam

Single top stitching (Fig.B): Stitch a plain

seam, press the seam edges to one side and
work a row of machining close to the seam
line on the right side catching the seam
allowances.

Double top stitching: (Fig. C)In this, two extra

lines of stitching is done on the right side of the
garment, one on either side of the seam line, after
the seam allowances are pressed open.

Welt seam /Mock flat fell seam (Fig. D): A

flat inside seam, graded and pressed to one
side; the larger seam allowance being
topstitched to the garment thereby enclosing
the smaller seam allowance. It is used on
heavy coats, sportswear, yokes etc. to reduce
bulk on the inside of the garment.
Stitch a plain seam and trim one raw edge to about 1/4 inch width. Press the two
raw edges to one side with the narrow one enclosed under the wider one. Now
stitch on the right side so that the stitching will come just outside the narrow
seam edge, but inside the wider seam edge.

Lapped seam/Tucked seam (Fig. E) The lapped seam is a very strong smooth
seam which lies perfectly flat and is commonly used for joining a gathered section
to a straight edge as in a yoke. When the lap is wide, giving the effect of a tuck, it
is known as a Tucked seam.
Take a part of a garment which is to be laid on top and turn its seam allowance to
wrong side. Place this piece on top of the second piece, right side facing and
matching the fold to the seam line accurately. Tack in position and machine close
to the folded edge.
Slot seam (Fig. F): A seam with a decorative slit formed by bringing two
folds together and stitching them onto an
underlying piece. It is a variation of
lapped seam and is often used down the
centre front or center back of skirt, coats
and dresses primarily for decoration or to
add length to the garment. Sometimes it
is combined with an inverted pleat. Cut
a strip of fabric of the same length as the
seam itself and having width more
than twice the width of the seam allowance. Work a row of tacking down the
center of the strip. Take the two parts of the garment to be seamed and fold their
seam allowances to the wrong side. Now, with right side up, place the folded
edges over the strip so that the folds fall exactly on the tacked line of the strip.
Tack in position close to the folded edges and top stitch carefully along each side
of the seam about ¼ inch from the center line. Finally remove all the tacking. The
backing strip may be of the same fabric as the garment or a contrasting colored
fabric and may be cut on the bias.

Flat fell seam / Run and fell seam: A flat felled seam is basically made by
overlapping or interlocking one seam allowance with the other and top-
stitching them together onto the garment
with two parallel rows of stitches. This is
a flat durable seam used on men’s sports
shirts, work clothes, children’s clothes
and pyjamas. However it is time
consuming, and is difficult to make on
curved edges and on bulky fabrics.
Place the pieces to be joined wrong side
facing, and stitch on the seam line. Press
both seam allowances together in the same direction and trim the under seam
allowance to 1/8 inch and the upper one to
3
/8 inch (Fig. A).
Turn under the raw edge of the wide seam allowance so as to make a smooth fold
¼ inch wide. Keeping this fold in position, tack the fold down flat to the garment,
Machine stitch close to the folded edge on the right side of the garment (Fig.B)
The right side of the seam will show two rows of stitching and wrong side will
show only one row of stitching.

Hemmed flat fell seam: is made in a

similar manner, but the first row of stitching
for making the plain seam is done on the
wrong side of the garment and the last
stitching is done by hemming instead of
machining.

French seam: A seam in which the raw

edges of the cloth are completely covered by sewing them together, first on the
right side, then on the wrong. This is a ridge seam and is used on transparent and
light weight and sheer fabrics. Especially on baby clothes and delicate blouses. It
gives a neat and durable finish, as the raw edges are completely enclosed.
However it is time consuming, and too bulky when used on thick materials. Do
not use this seam on curves such as armholes and yokes.
The two pieces of materials to be joined
are placed together with wrong side
facing. Work a row of stitching 1/8 inch
outside the seam line towards the raw
edges. After stitching, trim the seam
allowances to less than 1/8 inch (Fig. A)
Press the seam and turn the work so that

the right sides are together. Crease the

first row of stitching so that it is
directly on the edge. Pin or tack and
stitch along the seam line about 1/8
inch from the fold (Fig. B). In this
seam, care should be taken to see that
there are no ravels visible on the right
side.
Mantua maker’s seam: This is also a ridge seam which is not suitable for bulky
fabrics. It can be used to attach lace in the form of a frill or flounce on sheer
fabrics.
Keeping right sides facing, tack the garment on the seam line. Trim one seam
edge to 1/8 inch from the tacking line and the other seam edge to 3/8 inch. Make a
1
/8 inch turning on the wide edge so that this edge nearly touches the narrow seam
allowance (Fig .A)
Now make a second fold to make the folded
edge line along the original tacking line.
Machine stitch or hem through all
thicknesses and remove tacking (Fig. B).

Piped /Corded seam: Sometimes a piping or bias binding is

inserted in a plain seam to give a decorative finish to the garment.
This type of seam is very often used in collars, cuffs, pockets and
at the waist line and yoke line of dresses. If a cord is enclosed in
the bias strip, the seam is called corded seam.
Prepare the bias strip, fold it in the middle and tack it to the right
side of the pieces to be seamed in such a way that the bias fold
extends 1/8 inch inside the seam line. Place the second piece on top
of the first piece (right sides facing) with the bias lying in
between, and stitch along the seam line. When the seam is turned
to the right side, the piping or binding will extend between the two
pieces of material. To be most affective the bias material should
be of a contrasting color.

Counter seam: This seam is suitable for heavy materials. In this seam both the
raw edges are enclosed by both the seam allowances along the seam line.
Turn under the seam allowance of one fabric piece to the wrong side and the
other to the right side. Press
Place the wrong side of the first piece of fabric on the right side of the
second piece along the edges, keeping the seam allowances. Pin in place.
Stitch along the folded edge.

Hairline seam: This is a type of enclosed seam which is mostly used for collars
and other enclosed areas. The seam allowances are not visible from the outside as
it gets enclosed.
Make a plain seam using a very
tight straight stitch, with the fabrics
right side together. Trim away very
close to the stitching line. Press the
seam. Turn right side out. You can
make a top stitch to secure the
seam.

Serged seam: For this seam a Serge or Overlock

machine is used wherein a serge stitch is used instead
of plain seam. The seam allowance is trimmed by the
machine. This seam gives stretch and flexibility to
the seam.
This seam can be used under following condition:
• If it is not important that seams are kept
flat or open.
• On light weight fabrics.
 • For loose garment.
• For the sewing knitted garments.
Place right sides of the fabrics together matching the stitching lines. Keep
the fabric under the needle. The serge will automatically trim the seam
allowance and enclose the fabric edges in a thread.
A 3 thread serged seam will give stretch to the seam and a 4 thread serged seam
will give strength to the seam. A 3 thread serged seam is often used for knit
fabrics for its stretching property.

Flat or Abutted seam: Two pieces of fabric are joined edge-to-edge with no
overlap and sewn with hand or machine stitching that encloses the raw edges. This
is used when joining seams where you do not want any bulk. For example when
sewing lingerie.

SEAM FINISHES
A seam finish is a treatment that secures and neatens the raw edges of seam
allowance of a plain seam, by sewing over the raw edges or enclosing them with
binding.
Seam finishes are made to prevent fraying of the raw edges and thus make the
seam more durable. It makes the inside of the garment look neat, clean and
professional as the outside. Knowledge of the seam finishes will enhance the look
of sewn garment.
Standards of Seam finish
A good seam finish should have the following qualities:
• Neat, even stitches
• Smooth ,without puckers
• Protect the area and prevent the edge from raveling, stretching,
rolling, or curling.
• Does not add too much bulk to the seam allowance
• Imprint of seam finish does not show on the right side of the garment
• Appropriate for the fabric and intended use of the garment

Selection of Seam finishes

When choosing a seam finish, consider the following:
(1)Bulk and weight of fabric and bulk of seam finish: If the fabric is bulky do
not choose a bulky seam finish. For lightweight fabric, a bulky finish will affect
the hand/drape of the garment. Finishes that control excessive raveling are
generally bulky.
(2)Tendency of fabric to ravel: Woven fabrics ravel as compared to knit fabrics.
Tightly woven fabrics do not tend to ravel. Some knit fabrics tend to curl or roll
along the cut edge. A seam finish is needed to control the curling.
(3)Ability of the finish to control raveling: Pinked finish controls a limited
amount of raveling. Bound seam finish controls almost any raveling.
(4)Finished appearance of the garment: Choice of a seam finish that will not be
visible on the outside of the garment or affect the hang/drape of the garment is
important. For unlined jackets-that is worn open in front choose a seam finish that
will enhance the inside appearance of the jacket, as many times the inside of this
type of jacket may be seen.
(5)Strength and type of seam: Crotch seam on a pair of pants take more strain
than side seam. It is advantageous to secure the crotch seam with finish that will
strengthen the seam as well as prevent fraying.
(6)Use or purpose of garment: Garments worn and laundered frequently such as
children’s play clothes may need a more secure finish than a garment that is worn
and laundered less frequently.
(7)Care of the garment: The amount of wear it will receive. Machine-laundered
garments on a normal setting will have more abrasion and a greater tendency to
ravel than garments laundered on a gentle cycle for a short period of time or
drycleaned.
(7)Equipment: Some sewing machines are capable of sewing a zigzag stitch.
TYPES OF COMMONLY USED SEAM FINISHES:
Pinked finish (Fig. A): This seam finish is
made using Pinking shears, a particular type of
scissors that gives a zigzag pattern on the cut
edge. This is a quick method and is not bulky
but is not a suitable finish for fabrics that ravel
badly. After stitching a plain seam, trim off
about 1/8 inch of the seam allowance using the
pinking shears, than press the seam open.

Edge stitched finish (Fig. B): The seam is

stitched and pressed open. Then turn under ¼
inch on each seam edge and top stitch close to
the fold without catching the garment. This
finish is used on unlined coats and jackets
where a wide seam allowance is available. This
is a bulky finish and is not suitable for deeply
curved seams.

Double stitch finish (Fig. C): After making a

plain seam, work an extra line of stitching
about ¼ inch from the raw edge. This can be
done for a plain unfinished seam or pinked
seam. This is not suitable for bulky fabrics.

Overcast finish (Fig. D): This is a common

method used for both thick and thin materials that
fray easily. It is suitable for narrow seams and
also for seams that receive hard wear or extra
strain such as armholes and waist lines. After
making the plain seam, press the seam open and
work overcasting stitches over the raw edges of
the two seam allowances separately. Avoid tight
stitches in order to prevent edges from puckering.
On seam of armholes or yokes, press the seam allowances to one side and
overcast the two edges together.
Note: Instead of overcasting blanket stitch or zigzag machining can be done on
the raw edges of the seam allowance.

Herring bone finished seam (Fig. E) This

finish neatens the raw edges and also holds
down the turnings, making the seam flat. This is
suitable for heavy materials like flannel. After
pressing the seam open, herringbone stitches
are worked on the two raw edges, catching the
garment.

Bound seam edge finish (Fig. F): The seam

edges are bound by a bias strip of a thinner fabric
to keep the seam from fraying without adding
bulk. For thin fabrics seam allowances could be
pressed together and bias binding attached to it.

Self-bound fabric edge finish (Fig. G): This finish is

best used for light weight fabrics and sheer fabrics. This
seam finish wraps one seam allowance over the other, thus
enclosing the raw edges. Keep the fabrics right sides
together along the stitching line and make a plain seam.
Trim one of the seam allowances to 1/8″. Turn the other
seam allowance edge over the trimmed seam allowance.
Now the smaller edge is enclosed in the fold of the other
seam allowance. Make a straight stitching line along the raw edge of the
folded seam, parallel and close to the seam stitching line.

Liquid seam finish (Fig. H): This is done with a

liquid which is a seam sealant, several liquid
commercial product marketed under brand
names like Fray Check™, etc. are available to
use as a seam finish. It is great to use around
buttonholes, on the corners of a collar, etc. It is
fast, relatively inexpensive, and easy to apply, it controls raveling and
withstands several launderings. It works best on light to medium-weight fabrics.
The product may stiffen the fabric but becomes softer after laundering or dry-
cleaning. If used on crisp or stiff fabrics, it becomes scratchy, irritates the skin
and may damage underwear.

HINTS ON STITCHING AND FINISHING SEAMS

(1) When stitching a bias edge to a straight edge, work with the bias edge on
top.
(2) When joining a plain edge and a gathered edge, stitch with the gathered side
up exactly on the gathering line.
(3) While joining two bias edges, stretch the
seam slightly as you stitch. Always stitch with
the grain (from wider end to the narrow end of
the garment piece).
(4) When seams are to be crossed, press open the
first seam before you stitch a second seam across
it.
(5) After stitching curved seam such as necklines and collars clip seam edges
towards stitching in order to make the seam lie flat (Fig. A)

(6) While constructing garments, many seam

(especially enclosed seam as in a collar) have to
be trimmed to reduce bulk. Trimming (Fig. B) is
the process of cutting away both seam
allowances to the same width.

(7) Sometimes it is necessary to grade seams

especially where several layers of fabrics are
joined together. Grading means that the seam
allowances are trimmed to different widths
(Fig. C). This is done in such a way that when
the seam allowances are all pressed to one side,
the widest one comes on top and hides those
below, which become progressively narrower.
(8) After stitching plain seams in a garment and while making single top
stitched seams and flat fell seams, the seam allowances should be pressed to
the proper direction as directed:
 • When a plain side is joined to a fuller side, the allowances should be
pressed so that the plain side lies on top. So when joining blouse to
sleeve, the seam allowance on the blouse should be on the top side.
Similarly after joining yoke to a gathered section, the seam should be
pressed so that the yoke seam edge lies on top.
• For side seams, the seam edges should be pressed to the back side.
• At centre front of garments, press the seam allowances to the left side
for boys and right side for girls.

MITRING
Bound corners have excess fabric which has to be mitered with a diagonal seam at
the corner and taking up the excess fabric in the seam. This method is used while
joining borders for blankets or attaching borders, braids or lace around saris, table
cloth etc. The folded portion may be cut off to avoid bulk. A different method is
used when the border extends beyond the cloth and has to be folded back onto the
seam line. Two darts are taken, both tapering to the fold line.

Mitred Binding

Inner Mitred Corner

Outer Mitred Corner
Check Your Progress
A. Answer the following Questions.
1. State the difference between Seams and Seam finishes.
2. What is seam allowance?
3. Why are seams finished?
4. What are the factors that influence the selection of a seam finish?
5. Explain the following how the following factors influence the choice of seam.
a. Texture and durability of the fabric
b. Design and use of the garment
c. The shape of the seam
d. Location of the seam in the garment
e. Sewing Machine
f. Current fashion
6. In selecting Seam finishes what do we need to consider and why?

Practical Activity
Direction: Make a cloth sample of the different seams and seams finishes of a 6”X6” fabric.
(you can use old clothes) Paste it on a Long Bond Paper and label it.

Rubrics for Seams and Seams Finishes

0-1 Quality 2-3 Quality 4-5 Quality Overall
Score

Knot One of both knots are Knots are tied off Both knots are
(Beginning/End) not tied off correctly correctly, but not secured and have
and will not hold the been tied off
stitch in place. secured. Knots are correctly. Knots are
place in the correct
too large and are location and are not
distracting to the distracting to the
product. product

Stitch Stitches are crooked, Some stitches are Stitches are

Length/Consistenc uneven, and not straight and overall straight. Length of
y consistence is size or length is good, but stitch is overall
length. Stitch would stitches are not consistent
not hold two pieces consistently the and is no larger than
of fabric together. same length. ¼ cm.
 Overall Stitch quality needs Stitches are of good Stitches are pulled
Quality of to improve. Stitches quality, but could be tight, even and
Stitch are uneven and will improved. overall quality is
not hold fabric good. Each stitch
together. Stitches are looks similar to the
uneven, not correct next, and will stay
stitch, and loose.
in place to keep
product together.

References:
“Types of Seams Finishes (Tutorial)
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Types+of+Seams+Finishes
+%28Tutorial %29