Horticulture Module 3 Notes
Horticulture Module 3 Notes
Land clearing: The removal of all or most of the vegetation and any other undesirable
materials from the orchard site.
Reasons for clearing the land
- To facilitate subsequent tillage operations
- To destroy pests and pathogens hidden in the existing vegetation
- To destroy existing vegetation to prevent future competition with fruit trees
- To create a clean environment around the planting area
Roots system- a tree with deep and wide root system requires more
space than with lateral rooted spread.
System of land use – trees grown in a pure stand would be closer than
those to be inter row planted with other crops.
Growth habit – a tree with large and spreading canopy requires more
than the one with small crown.
The purpose for which they are raised – trees whose fruits are for exports or processing
would be spaced differently from those that are for local market.
Use of machinery - spacing should take account of use of machinery if the orchard is
Pattern: There are different methods of planting and thus different layouts for
orchards. Some of these layout types are:
Square method
Rectangular method
Quincunx method
Triangular method
Hexagonal method
1. Square system
It is the most easy and popular method of planting fruit plants. In this system row to row and
plant to plant distances are kept similar. The plants are planted exactly at right angle at each.
Thus, every four plants make one square. Intercultural operations can be done in both
directions as the distances between trees and rows are similar.
2. Rectangular system
The field is laid out into rectangular shape plot keeping more space between row and row.
The
plant to plant distance is kept comparatively less. Thus, rectangular system accommodates
more plants in rows. Inter-cultural operations can be carried out through both ways. The
plants get proper space and sunlight for their growth and development.(Orchard Planting)
3. Hexagonal system
This system accommodates 15 % more plants than square system. It allows three directional
cultivation in the orchard. In this system, the orchard is laid out similar to rectangular system.
The diagonals of rectangles are intersected to form equilateral triangles. The trees are planted
at the vertex of each equilateral triangle. Thus, six trees form hexagon with the seventh tree in
the centre. Hence, this system is also called as “septule’ as it accommodates seventh tree in
the centre.
4. Quincunx system
This system is similar to square system except one additional plant is planted in the
centre of each square . The plants that are planted in the centre of each square along
with tall growing plants at the corners of squares are termed as ‘filler’ plants. These plants are
planted with a view to generate income when the main orchard plant is under non-bearing
stage.
Filler plants also ensure proper utilization of otherwise left space between rows of
trees. These plants are usually short-statured and early bearing. When main plants of the
orchard resume their proper shape, the filler plants are uprooted. Guava, Kinnow, Phalsa,
Plum, Peaches, Papaya etc. are important filler plants.(Orchard Planting)
5. Contour system
It is adopted in hilly areas for planting fruit plants where land is undulated and soils erosion is
a great threat. Under such circumstances, contour terrace is developed by scratching and
levelling the hill-slope. The width of contour terrace varies according to the slope of the hill.
At stiff hill slope, the width is kept narrower.
3.1.3 Dig tree holes to prescribed size
A. Broadcasting
Even and uniform spreading of dry solid fertilizers by hand or spreader over the entire field
before or after sowing of the crop is termed as broadcasting. Well-decomposed FYM (Farm
yard manure), compost, oil cake, bone meal, urea, superphosphate, and lime are applied by
this method.
Advantages
This method is easy, less time taking, cheap, and more convenient to the farmers. This
method proves effective-
Disadvantages
It is not advantageous because it encourages weed growth all over the field.
Most of the material remains on the soil surface and does not reach the root zone for
uptake by plants.
There is a more significant loss of fertilizer nutrients due to washing, run-off,
volatilization.
The recovery (extent of fertilizer used by plants) ranges between 25 to 45 percent or
even less.
1. Basal application
Spreading fertilizers before sowing or planting the crops and mixing them by cultivating the
soil during seedbed preparation is termed as basal application through broadcasting.
Advantages
Disadvantage
Advantages
Disadvantage
B. Placement
It refers to applying fertilizers into the soil from where the crop roots can take them easily.
Advantages:
Disadvantage:
When the fertilizers are applied in open furrows at plow sole level while plowing, it is termed
plow sole placement. Such furrows are covered immediately during the next run of the plow.
Advantages:
2. Deep placement
The method is adopted in the dryland condition where the fertilizers are placed deeper than
the sole plow level; then, it is called deep placement.
Advantages
Disadvantage
3. Sub-soil placement
The method is termed sub-soil placement when placing fertilizers deeper than the seeding or
planting depth and deeper than the previous two methods.
Advantages
Disadvantage
C. Localized placement
There is a distinction between placement and localized placement. The former refers to
applying fertilizer into the soil without special reference to the location of the seed or plant.
At the same time, the latter implies the application of fertilizer into the soil close to the seed
or plant.
Advantages
Disadvantages
When placing fertilizer along with the seed, then it is called contact placement. It is done by
using seed-cum-fertilizer drill. Sometimes fertilizer is drilled by implement, and seed is sown
in the same furrow.
Advantage
Well-decomposed manure, ashes, and P and K fertilizers in small quantities are used along
with seeds during sowing.
Disadvantage
Care must be taken so that seeds are not burnt by contact with fertilizers.
2. Band placement
In the hill, for widely spaced plants like cotton, castor, and cucurbits, fertilizers are placed on
either side of plants along or across the row but not along the entire row. This method is also
termed a discontinuous band application.
Along the entire rows of closely spaced crops like cereals, minor millets, potatoes, and
tobacco, fertilizers are applied continuously at 2-2.5 cm depth. This method has a definite
relationship of fertilizers with seedlings or seeds as the fertilizer is placed to the side of
seedlings or seeds some distance away from them or at the seed level, above or below or by
the side of the seed level. When the soil surface is dry, this method gives very promising
results.
Fertilizer is applied in a circle around an individual plant or hill base at a depth of about 2.5-5
cm.
3. Pocket/spot placement
When fertilizers are placed at a fixed spot with the help of a bamboo peg having a hole at the
bottom in the case of very widely spaced crops, then the method is termed as pocket/spot
placement method. Fertilizers are placed deeper into the pocket (dibble), and seeds are sown
in the same pocket about 5 cm above the fertilizers.
Advantages
Disadvantage
Care must be taken so that seeds are not burnt by contact with fertilizers.
Laborious and time-consuming.
4. Pellet placement
This method is adopted, especially in deepwater rice cultivation. It is not easy to apply
fertilizers in typical methods as the fertilizer granules get dissolved in water before reaching
ground level. In this method, fertilizers (especially nitrogenous ones) are mixed with clay soil
in the ratio of one part of fertilizer into 10-15 parts of soil. The fertilizer is well-mixed with
soil after slight moistening, filled in gunny bags, and stored for two to three days. Small mud
bolls are prepared, and these boll or pellets are dropped near the crop rows in rice Jr jute
under deep water conditions.
The use of liquid fertilizers is not a very common practice, but this is the most common
method in advanced countries. It is the most suitable method under dryland agriculture and in
areas prone to erosion problems. Liquid fertilizers may be applied in the following ways:
Advantages
Disadvantage
Advantage
The concentrated fertilizer solution may be dripped in the channel of irrigation water
while irrigating the crop.
Disadvantage
If the crop is to be given surface irrigation as flooding, excess water may lead to
physiological problems in crops.
In the USA and some other countries, farmers inject anhydrous ammonia into the soil at a
depth of about 20-25 cm and a pressure of about 200 pounds per square inch.
Advantages
Anhydrous ammonia is the cheapest source of nitrogen because of its lower unit value.
Injecting hormonal solutions and some micronutrient solutions in the phloem region of
the fruit trees is also becoming a distinct possibility in correcting the nutrient
deficiency.
Disadvantage
For this method, the soil should have fine tilth, enough moisture so that nitrogen loss in
the form of ammonia does not occur.
In this method of fertilizer application, urea, micronutrients, and other required materials are
dissolved in water, filtered, and sprayed over the crop foliage with the help of a suitable
sprayer.
Advantages
This method is preferred over other methods because it needs a minimal quantity of
materials.
The crop plants respond within 24 hours of application.
Soil reaction, topography, and soil textures have no adverse effect on the soil’s nutrient
availability and fertility status.
Possible to apply almost all nutrients by this method.
Disadvantage
If Super phosphate application rate 200 kg per hectare, how much super phosphate
needed for 5 ha.
How much Super phosphate is needed for 1m x 5m seedbed? Use an application rate of
200kg / ha. N B: 1 ha = 10 000m2
Step 1 - 1m x 5m = 5 m2
Step 2 1 ha : 200 kg Substitute 1 ha by 10 000m 2
Step 3 2
10 000m : 200 kg Multiple 5 by 200 kg and divide 10 000
5m2 : X
Pits / drupes
Core /pome -apple
-pear
Citrus -oranges
-tangerines
-grapefruit
-lemons
-kumquats
-lime
Preparation of cuttings
Hard wood cuttings are prepared from late autumn to early spring and planted in summer
-
Take cuttings from a riped wood from the previous year’s growth. Use sharp knife to
ensure clean cut of cuttings. Size 0.6 – 2.5 cm in diameter and about 30cm in length
with at least 2 nodes. Remove leaves from the portion to be buried and those on the
aerial section side. Treat a basal cut in with rooting powder to promote early and better
root development Planting of Cuttings. Cuttings can either be set in a nursery beds or
planted directly in a field. Usually plant them to a depth of half their length. Water
regularly following planting settings.
Grafting – It is the act of connecting parts of two plants so that they will unite and grow
into one unit.
There are different methods of grafting but they all involve uniting scion and root
stock. Scion form the upper part and root stock for the lower part. Grafting is done in
spring or late winter.
Layering- This involve inducing a branch to develop roots whilst still attached to the
mother plant.
Propagation Using Suckers – Suckers is a shot that arises on a plant from below the
ground. Bananas and pine apple are propagated using suckers,
Step for propagation using suckers
i. Selection of strong and suckers of 1 – 1.5 m in height
ii. Digging out and cuttings of the suckers from the mother plant.
iii. Trimming the suckers of excess leaves and adventious roots.
iv. Protection the suckers from drying until they are planted.
v. Suckers are usually taken during dormant season.
How to propagate using suckers
Loosen the soil around the sucker with a fork, and then
carefully expose and lift the sucker and associated roots,
being careful not to disturb the parent plant.
Using sharp secateurs or a knife, sever the sucker, making
sure that it has fibrous roots on the detached portion. Replace
and firm the soil around the parent plant.
Trim the sucker by removing the main root or stolon
(creeping underground stem) up to the fibrous roots.
Reduce long, leafy shoots by about half to limit drying out of
the sucker after planting and to promote bushy re-growth.
Plant the sucker into fertile, free-draining soil enriched
with organic matter such as well-rotted garden compost,
manure or leafmould. If potting up the sucker,
multipurpose compost is fine to use.
Water well after firming the soil around the roots. The
roots are usually insufficient to sustain the plant without
careful watering for the first season.
3.2.3 Sow seeds to produce fruit tree seedlings
Growing a rootstock for implanting involves some minor jobs at different times of the year,
as with gardening. Here are some seasonal recommendations:
o In late summer, you can gather your nectarine and peach seeds to store in the moist sand.
o In autumn, you can start gathering your pears and apple seeds to keep in the sand by
keeping the soil moist.
o For winter, gather scion wood of the varieties you want to graft in spring and keep them
stored correctly. You can also collect plum cuttings to store in damp sand.
o While in spring, you can plant those seeds and cut them in a container or the ground.
Another note when growing fruit trees is that peach, apricot, and nectarine seedlings might
only bud in the first growing season in late July or early August. You can then transplant
them the following spring.
Apples, pears, plums, and cherries must develop for two years before they will bud in July or
early August.
Gathering Seeds to Produce Fruit
You must follow some steps when you want to plant your outdoor trees to sprout blossoms
and form fruits. First, you need to gather the pits, and ripening of it can be done in two
methods:
1. Star by removing all the fruit portions and leaving the seeds to air dry.
2. Place the dried seeds in a receptacle or a glass jar with a loosely fitted lid.
3. Then place the seeds in a cool place until mid-January, as it needs after-ripening. The
length can vary from one fruit species to another.
4. If you use your fridge to store seeds, keep them in a sealed receptacle and do not expose
them to fruit that gives off ethylene gas, like apples, pears, peaches, nectarine, bananas,
blueberries, etc.
5. If the seeds have not gone through a cold treatment, it helps to mix the seeds with
something like damp peat moss, shredded paper towels, or sand in mid-January.
6. Then return that mixture to a receptacle, replace the lid, and keep it in the fridge until the
last frost date.
Your seeds will remain in the fridge for up to 60 days, and after the last frost date or early
summer, you can prepare some potting medium to plant them.
Second Method: Directly Into The Ground
Prepare some potting mix in a plot as you would with your other seed varieties in the fall.
Then make a furrow not deeper than one or two times the length of the seed. Next, cover the
seed with light soil and add another two inches of sand over them as it prevents crusting that
can inhibit germination.
Place a wire screen or a hardware cloth over your row, push it several inches into the potting
mix, and ensure the ends are closed. When early April arrives, look if you see your seedling
grows. As your seedling grows, remove the wire screen.
Third Method
Gather your apple seeds from cold storage, rinse them with 10% Clorox solution, and dust
them with a fungicide. Then line your seeds in trays in moist peat moss or vermiculite.
Once they germinate, you can transplant them an inch deep in parallel seed lines about two
inches apart. After a few months in the fridge, they should sprout. Now, you place them in a
four-inch pot and leave them until they mature with leaves.
With all methods, when your seedlings reach eight inches tall, you can place one to two
tablespoons of urea along each of the 12-inch rows and keep it two inches away from your
plants.
We recommend using warm water at room temperature to saturate your plants. Another note
is that stone fruit pips have a hard covering, and to help them germinate, you can crack them
with a nutcracker before you plant them.
There are a few ways to grow fruit trees, and they can be done as follow:
1. Place a loose potting mix friable as the moisture needs to flow through the drainage
holes. Your seedlings will retain enough moisture to expand. You can use a germination
mix or make one using equal parts topsoil, perlite, peat, and Fertilis.
2. Fill the trays with the potting mix and level them off. Dampen the potting mix.
3. Then evenly sprinkle the seed over the soil and cover it lightly or as bought seed
recommendations.
4. Soak with a fine water spray and cover the trays with plastic protection or newspaper.
6. Once you see the seeds germinate, you can remove the covers and start exposing them to
more sunlight.
In Seed Beds
In the landscape, dig over the ground to remove debris, stones, and clots. Then dig in some
compost with something like Fertilis. Dampen the potting medium and sow the seeds in rows
to cover them with the potting mix.
Water well with a fine spray and cover it with mulch or straw to help retain moisture. As
seedlings sprout, you can thin them out, allowing for more space
Use sub soil to construct a dish shaped basin round the plant to water.
Mulching - Apply mulch in the basin to reduce evaporation and maintain good soil
structure and control weeds. Water the seedling heavily and repeat it every 2-3 days to 2
weeks.
PRECAUTIONS WHILE TRANSPLANTING
-Lift seedlings with as much soil round the roots as
possible - Protect uprooted seedlings from heat until
they are transplanted.
- Transplant in the afternoon
- Ensure that roots are well spread out in the hole and the stem kept erect - Plant the
seedling so that the collar is a level with the ground. - Press the soil round the
seedling firmly to the remove air pockets - Water seedling immediately after
transplanting.
- Provide shade to seedling to protect them from heat.
- If a seedling s is in danger of bending, support it with a stake.
The three main considerations when planting fruit trees is the current weather, during which
season they will bear their fruit, and how you receive them (containerized or bareroot).
Containerized trees, those in pots or balled-and-burlap wrapped where the roots are
established in existing soil, can almost be planted any time of the year. Your greatest success
will occur if you plant them in months that include the letter "R."
These include September, October, and November (autumn and early winter) or February,
March, and April (late winter and early spring).
Bareroot trees, those that are uprooted during dormant seasons when no leaves or fruit are
present and whose roots are shaken free of soil and packed in moisture containing materials,
are best planted in the months of February, March, April, and occasionally May (late winter
and spring).
May is getting a bit late in the season but can work. You should avoid planting bareroot trees
in the fall due to the risk of failure explained below.
The reason these are far more resilient to when they are planted is because of the fact that
they're containerized and not experiencing new growth.
This means that they're already established in soil and when you plant them you'll transplant
everything within the container except the container itself.
This means the root system doesn't experience any shock or moisture fatigue (for the most
part) because it remains in the same soil without being disturbed.
If you can, you should avoid planting containerized trees in the summer months of May,
June, July, and August due to higher temperatures and dry breezes. The lack of moisture in
the air and soil can cause moisture stress.
Too much water can cause the same problems, so avoid overly wet times in the spring where
water can't drain away and never plant just before or during the times when the ground starts
freezing.
Bareroot trees are available to most of us only during the spring due to the "Nursery Cycle."
This refers to when bareroot trees are harvested, stored and ensured to be thriving, and then
sold to the public.
And because you should plant these nearly immediately, the best time to plant bareroot fruit
trees is in the early spring.
When you buy the tree in this condition it will be dormant still for the most part. Getting it in
the ground quickly means the roots have a chance to start growing and establishing
themselves in the cooler early spring soil.
Letting the roots become strong and larger before temperatures start rising is good because
once new growth begins it will have a higher demand on the fertilizer and water contents of
the soil around it.
The more mature the root system is, the better it can handle these demands.
Another option is to plant them in the fall if that's when you buy them, before the nursery
stores them for the winter again. In the fall, the root system grows fairly rapidly as demands
otherwise slow down due to the tree preparing to become dormant.
The risk here is it won't have had two seasons already to harden itself for the coming winter,
so realize there is a risk here. If there's a hard winter or any deep cold snaps, expect for your
tree to receive cold damage if not killed. It's a risk you take if you plant in the fall.
To break it down further, let's look at this by the season in four groupings.
Fall, Winter - Fruit trees can be planted during these months when the trees are dormant, but
the early and mid-winter should only be considered if you live in a plant hardiness zone of 8
or above. This would include the South, Southwest, and West Coast.
But still take into consideration the avoidance of planting when the ground is frozen or when
snow is forecasted. Fall planting runs a risk of plant harm or death in harsher winters. Late
winter can be thought of as early spring if the weather is warm enough.
Early Spring - All fruit trees will perform their best if planted in the early spring, especially
in plant hardiness zones of 7 and below where the autumn and winter months are too cold.
The key for early spring (and even late winter) planting is to wait for the soil to be workable
and not overly wet. Frost dates are supposedly irrelevant here, but I'd wait till after the last
one if it occurs in winter.
Late Spring, Summer & Fall - Containerized trees can do fine in these seasons, but be
careful of high heat, dry wind, and low moisture in the soil during the summer.
The fall runs the risk of the plant not acclimating and hardening before winter, leaving it
vulnerable to cold damage. Bareroot fruit trees should be planted at the latest in late spring.
Winter - Don't plant your trees during winter, period. There's often too much moisture that
can freeze and damage young root systems. Low temperatures and cold wind can cause cold
damage and freezing to the trees.
Expect to lose your trees if you try this. The only exception is late winter when the
temperature has risen significantly.
Type of roots system - a tree with deep and wide root system requires a deeper planting
and wider hole.
Soil type – in heavy and hardy soil planting hole has to be deeper.
Size of a fruit tree – large trees need deeper a wider planting hole.
Soil fertility –.in soil of low fertility the hole should be deeper and wider then filled with
more good soil and manure.
Topography of the land – on steep slopes planting holes should be deeper and wider
than in gentle slope.
Expected productive life of a tree. - a tree of a longer life span need a bigger hole than
one with short life span.
Method of Propagation – trees raised from cuttings and layering do not develop tap
roots, so they need deeper planting hole.
Factors affecting spacing of fruit tree
Roots system - a tree with deep and wide root system requires more
space than with lateral rooted spread.
System of land use – trees grown in a pure stand would be closer than
those to be inter row planted with other crops.
Growth habit – a tree with large and spreading canopy requires more
than the one with small crown.
Soil fertility - in soil of low fertility should be deeper and wider than usual
The purpose for which they are raised – trees whose fruits are for exports or processing
would be spaced differently from those that are for local market.
Use of machinery - spacing should take account of use of machinery if the
orchard is mechanized.
- Mix top soil with composted kraal manure at a ratio of 1:1 and add about 100-500g
of super phosphate to the mixture.
1. Remove as many weeds and grass from around your fruit tree.
2. Place the mulch around the base of the tree trunk in a ring-shaped circle about 4-6
inches deep.
3. Use a shovel or gloved hands to pull mulch about 6-8 inches away from the trunks
of the fruit trees.
4. Spread a thick layer of wood chip mulch, compost, or well-rotten manure around
the base of the tree.
5. Mulch should be applied twice a year in the mid-spring and autumn for the first
three or four years after planting the tree. After that, you can cut down to an
annual spring mulch.
1. Drip irrigation
Drip irrigation is a system of tubes, pipes, and emitters that provide water directly to the base
of plants. It’s an economical way to irrigate fruit trees as it only waters the root zone,
reducing water wastage.
Drip irrigation delivers water directly to the root system of a tree, resulting in more precise
watering. This is especially helpful for fruit trees, which have deep roots and necessitate an
adequate amount of moisture.
Drip irrigation is a convenient way to water gardens as it can be automated with timers,
making it suitable for both busy and gardeners that are far from home. This allows for an
even amount of watering without the need for direct supervision.
Drip irrigation is an effective way of conserving water as it delivers water straight to the root
zone of plants, limiting evaporation and runoff. This helps to cut down on water usage,
saving resources and money.
Drip irrigation is a great way to improve the health and yield of fruit trees. It provides a
constant supply of water and nutrients to the roots, enabling the trees to grow better and
produce more fruit.
Drip irrigation is a great way to water fruit trees due to its accuracy, automation capabilities,
conservation efforts, and the potential to improve tree health and productivity.
Micro sprinkler irrigation is a type of irrigation system that uses small sprinklers or emitters
to deliver water to plants. It is often used in small or odd-shaped gardens, or in areas where it
is difficult to install other types of irrigation systems.
With micro-sprinkler irrigation, the water can be customized for each plant and delivered at
low pressure to keep evaporation levels low. This also decreases the risk of erosion and
runoff. It’s an effective approach as the sprinklers are put close to the base of each plant.
Micro sprinkler irrigation can be automated with a timer or moisture sensor, which helps to
conserve water by preventing overwatering and under-watering. Additionally, the automation
feature can be adjusted according to varying weather conditions and turn the sprinklers off
during times of heavy rain.
One downside of using a micro sprinkler system is that it may not be suitable for large
gardens or fields, as the water output may not be sufficient to cover them.
It is also more prone to clogging than other types of irrigation systems, as the small sprinklers
can become blocked by debris or minerals in the water.
Micro sprinkler irrigation is a convenient and efficient way to water small gardens or areas
with plants that have specific watering needs. It can be easily customized and automated, and
it reduces the risk of water waste and erosion.
A tree watering bag is an effective way to irrigate fruit trees. It is a bag that holds water,
which gradually drips into the soil around the roots of the tree, providing moisture and
nourishment.
Watering bags are great for trees because they gradually release water, which avoids
oversaturating the soil. As a result, it maximizes water conservation and prevents root rot.
Tree watering bags are simple to use and require little initial setup. Just fill the bag with
water, put it around the tree’s base, and adjust the water given to the tree by increasing or
decreasing the water in the bag.
Tree watering bags are easy to transport, which makes them ideal for those without an
established irrigation system. Plus, they can be shifted around trees and taken with you if you
relocate.
Tree watering bags are an excellent choice for supplying moisture to the roots of fruit trees.
They are simple to use, can be moved around easily, and help conserve water – perfect for
irrigating these trees.
4. Soaker hose
Soaker hoses are a type of irrigation system meant to evenly distribute water. Made from
porous materials like recycled rubber, they have tiny holes allowing water to slowly seep out.
Soaker hoses are beneficial for gardens, landscaped areas, and fruit trees as it is a great way
to water them.
Using a soaker hose for watering fruit trees is beneficial since less water evaporates and runs
off compared to traditional methods like overhead watering. Water is released slowly, right at
the roots, letting the tree absorb more water and aiding its growth, and producing more fruit.
Another benefit of using a soaker hose is that it can reduce the risk of disease. Wet foliage on
fruit trees can create an ideal environment for fungal diseases to thrive. By applying water
directly to the roots of the tree with a soaker hose, the leaves and fruit remain dry, reducing
the chance of disease.
For an effective soaker hose, it’s important to place it in a spot that will cover the whole root
zone of the tree. The root zone is where the tree takes in water and nutrients from the soil.
Placing the soaker hose near, but slightly inside, the outer edge of the tree canopy should
provide your fruit tree with enough water for its entire root zone.
Properly watering a tree is important, as too much may lead to root rot whereas not enough
water can weaken the tree and lessen fruit yield. You can use a soaker hose in order to get the
exact amount of water needed.
To determine the correct amount of water, you can use a soil moisture gauge or simply check
the soil moisture by hand. The soil should be evenly moist, but not soggy.
In short, a soaker hose is an effective and efficient way to water fruit trees. It conserves
water, lowers the risk of disease, and can help the tree grow and produce fruit.
Watering fruit trees by hand using a hose or watering can is an easy way to keep them
hydrated.
Thinning fruit trees may seem counterproductive, but here are four reasons why
thinning out fruit benefits you, your trees, and your fruit harvest.
As a fruit gardener, you may have heard talk about thinning fruit trees. Thinning is
the process of removing a selection of fruit from your trees while the fruit is still
small.
Now, it may seem counterintuitive to pluck some of the newly developing fruit
before it is ripe. After all, growing fruit is your goal! However, thinning fruit trees
ultimately works in your favor and, more importantly, it benefits your fruit trees in
the long run.
* "Biennial bearing" is a tree’s tendency to bear fruit every other year. Left to its
own devices, a fruit tree may bear heavily one year, then light (or not at all) the
next year. Certain types of fruit tree, like many peach trees, and certain varieties of
fruit tree, like Golden Delicious Apple trees, are more likely to bear biennially if
the current year’s fruit crop isn’t thinned.
What you need: Thinning fruit trees is an easy task. All you need is your fingers,
or a small pair of sharp pruners, to remove the excess fruit and get the job done.
When to thin out fruit: The window for thinning fruit trees opens after pollination
takes place and in the early stages of fruit development – this is usually before the
young fruit exceeds an inch in diameter. In most locations, you will no longer need
to be concerned with thinning your fruit trees after July.
3.4.6 Perform training of fruit trees
Training a fruit tree involves directing tree growth in a way that will lead to the
development of a desirable tree framework
Some methods of training include:
Spreading limbs
Tying the plant to a trellis
Using a rootstock for growth control
Staking, pruning, and branch spreading
Having 3 to 5 scaffold branches with wide angles evenly distributed around the
tree
Removing large, branched water sprouts
Using "diameter-based" pruning
Training twice, pruning once
Limiting tree height
Discover three ways to train fruit trees so that they look attractive but take up little space - as
cordons, espaliers or fans.
By planting trained trees in shapes such as espaliers, cordons and fans, you can fit apples,
pears and more into the smallest of gardens. Either growing flat against a wall or fence, or as
a garden divider or screen, trained fruit trees make an attractive feature. Despite being
deciduous, they look good all year round, offering blossom in spring, delicious fruits and
attractive foliage from summer to autumn, and dramatic shapes through the winter.
Trained trees can provide you with a surprisingly large crop in a small space and as the fruit
should be in easy reach, you can pick it before it falls. You can buy trees ready-trained,
mainly from specialist fruit nurseries, or train them yourself from scratch.
Single cordon
This is a single stem with short fruiting spurs evenly spaced along it. Prune in the summer,
cutting sideshoots that are over 23cm long, back to three leaves from where the current
season's growth begins. Once it has reached the top wire, prune the leading shoot back to a
leaf joint at the required height. Many fruits can be grown this way,
including apples, cherries, plums and damsons.
A row of cordon fruit trees growing against a wall at Audley End House
Espalier
This attractive, symmetrical form has a central trunk and two more more pairs of 'arms',
trained horizontally on each side. It's usually grown flat against a wall. Prune the arms like
cordons. Pears and apples can be trained as espaliers. Find out how to prune apple trees in
summer.
An espalier apple tree
Fans
An ornamental and productive form for a wall, with straight branches fanning out from two to
four main branches, originating from a very short trunk. Remove shoots growing outwards.
As it matures, remove older fruited sideshoots and train in new ones. Used for cherries,
plums, peaches, apricots, nectarines and fig trees.
Training a small fruit tree into a fan
Fruiting spur
Spurs are short branches on apple and pear trees that flower and set fruit. Pruning encourages
the tree to grow more spurs – giving you more fruit.
3.5.1 Describe classes of pests in fruit tree production
3.5.2 Identify pests affecting fruit trees
CLASSES OF PESTS EXAMPLES
OF PESTS
RODENTS Rats, mouse,
squirrel ,rabbits
- female moth mates with male moth and lay eggs on the underside of the leaf sheath
- eggs hatch into larva ( caterpillar) after about 10 days
- larva feeds on plant material and then crawls up the plant into the funnel and starts
feeding on the folded leaves
- the larva then bores down the funnel into the stalk where it feeds until it is fully
grown
- mature caterpillars bore holes on the stem and pupates in the tunnel and this stage
lasts 10 days
- adult moth emerges through the hole into the stem
- 2-3 days after adult emergence mating occurs and the cycle starts all over again
Sexual Reproduction
Asexual Reproduction
- this occurs when the conditions are favourable (warm and wet)
- Females produce unfertilized eggs which hatch into nymphs while inside the females’
body. This called parthenogenesis
- The females lay nymphs instead of eggs i.e. nymphs are born alive this is called
viviparity
- The nymphs feed on plant sap and moults several times before they mature to become
adults
- Nymphs become adults in a space of a week
- Adult aphids continue to feed on plant sap and females start to produce nymphs,
- When they get overcrowded some develop wings and fly away to colonize other
plants.
- provides organic matter and mineral nutrients upon death and decomposition
- protects soil against solar radiation during hot days
- provides ground cover therefore controlling soil erosion
- serve as shelter for pests predators and other useful organisms
- some leguminous weeds fixes nitrogen to the soil hence improving soil fertility and
plant growth
CLASSIFICATION OF WEEDS
- life cycle
- morphology
- method of dispersal
LIFE CYCLE
a) annuals
These weeds will germinate; produce flowers and seeds in one year or growing season.
These are commonly a problem in the arable land and are easy to control since they do
not have food storage or strong roots
E.g. Black jack, upright starbur, morning glory, Mexican poppy, thorn apple, devils thorn
etc.
b) biennials
c) perennials
Monocotyledonous weeds
- seedlings have a single seed leaf / cotyledon
- the leaves are usually wide and encircle the stem
- the leaves have veins that run parallel to the midrib along the leave
E.g. Star grass
METHOD OF DISPERSAL
a) water
- Irrigation water from rivers, dams, lakes can spread weeds through seeds and
vegetative parts
- Running off water carries weed seeds
- Many weeds are spread through this method
b) wind
- light weighted seeds with wing like structures (pappus) makes it easy for them to be
carried by wind to other areas
c) animals
- when animals feed they ingest some weed seeds which will be passed in excreta and
may latter regenerate into weeds
- weed seeds stick to the fur of the animals as they graze and will be dropped in other
areas
eg. Black jack
e) vegetatively
During ploughing the weeds are chopped into small pieces and as ploughing is done these
pieces spread into the field and these small pieces develop into weeds.
f) By explosion
Plants that produce seeds in pods at night these pods contract and during the day they
expand the pod ultimately will burst open sending seeds flying into the air. The seeds are
normally scattered around the plant.
Herbicides
a) selective herbicides
- kills specific type/kind of weeds and not harm others
- these can be applied when crops have established or post emergence of
seedlings
- e.g. 2, 4 D and MCPA control broadleaved weeds. Dalapon and alachlor kill
grass weeds (narrow-leaved) weeds only.
b) non-selective herbicides
PLANT DISEASES
Cause: Virus
Mode of infection: virus enter plant through wounds and toxins secreted by pest when
feeding
Symptoms:
- light green leaves with white to yellow streaks running parallel to the leaf
veins/midrib
- Stunted growth
- Small and partially filled cobs
- Inflorescence may become sterile
- death of the plants
Leaf spot
Cause: fungus
Transmission
o airborne conidia is carried from infected plants, volunteer crops and crop residue
o Contact from farm workers
o irrigation water
Symptoms
Cause: bacteria
Transmission: soil borne, irrigation water, crop residues, farm implements and tools
Symptoms
a) Contact insecticides
b) Stomach insecticides
c) Systemic insecticides
d) Fumigants
PESTICIDES FORMULATIONS
Pesticides formulations
Formulation Description
Sprays Wettable powders (WP), water soluble powders (WSP), emulsifiable
concentrates (EC)(they form suspension, solution or emulsion with
water for spraying) e.g. malathion 50%
Dusts Formulated into dry, very fine powder for direct application e.g.
carbaryl 1%
Aerosols Active ingredient is dissolved in an inert liquid under pressure.
Pesticide is released as a gas at room temperature on releasing pressure
e.g. doom
Granules Pesticide in which active ingredient is formulated as small solid
particles for direct application e.g. dipterex, cutworm bait
fumigants Active ingredient formulated in a tablet form which releases poisonous
gas that suffocates or poison the pest e.g. hydrogen cyanide, formalin
KNAPSACK SPRAYER
Part Function
Tank Container in which chemical is placed
Cap Seals the tank
Strainer Removes impurities from water
Delivery hose Carries chemical from tank to the lance
Handle Operates pump building pressure inside the reservoir
Pump Creates pressure inside the tank
Trigger Controls the release of spray through nozzle/ turns
spray on or off
Nozzle Atomize/ vapourises chemical to produce a spray/
distributes spray into fine dropplets
Shoulder Put over shoulder to carry sprayer
strap
Lance Directs spray to target crop/animal
Filter cap Water poured through to ensure the water contains no
large particles which blocks the nozzle
- multiply the spray volume by the size of the field to get the quantity of mixture
Physiological maturity:
It refers to the stage in developing the fruits and vegetables when
maximum growth and maturation have occurred. It is usually
associated with full ripening in the fruits. The Physiological
mature stage is followed by senescence. For example, A French
bean pod of okra is at its physiological maturity when seeds are
fully developed, and the pod will dehisce with little pressure.
Horticultural/Commercial maturity:
Horticultural maturity refers to any stage of development when
the commodity has reached a level of development sufficient for
its intended use. It is sometimes referred to as commercial
maturity. For example, A papaya with green pulp and peel that
has attained maximum size is already commercially mature as a
vegetable. Still, a tinge of yellow color has to develop when it is
used for dessert.
Harvest Maturity:
It may be defined in terms of physiological maturity and
horticultural maturity. It is a stage that will allow
fruits/vegetables at its peak condition when it reaches consumers
and develop acceptable flavors or appearances and have a good
shelf life. For example, For the local market, and for processing,
fully colored tomato fruits are harvested. However, for a distant
market, fruit that has started developing color is harvested.
Determination of maturity
Maturity can be determined either by subjective or objective
observation. According to Reid (2002), the methods of
determining harvest maturity are as follows
Physical methods: Size, shape, color, texture, etc.
Chemical methods: Total Soluble Solids (TSS), acidity, etc.
Physiological methods: Respiration and ethylene production.
Apart from the above measures, abscission, accumulated heat
unit, specific gravity, duration after flowering, firmness, dry
matter, juice content, Oil content, waxiness, tenderness, etc.,
can also determine the optimum harvest maturity stage.
Measures of maturity of fruits and vegetables
Some essential measures of maturity of fruits and vegetables are
described in the following.
1. Fruit Color:
Fruit skin or flesh color changes as the fruit matures or ripens.
These changes can be determined subjectively by the harvester.
However, color meters and color charts have been developed for
determining harvest times for apples, tomatoes, peaches, chili
peppers, etc. However, some fruits do not exhibit any perceptible
color changes during maturation, and thus this parameter cannot
be effectively used. Color changes also differ among different
cultivars of the same fruit.
For example, the Hayward cultivar of kiwifruit maintains its
green flesh during maturation while the ‘Sanuki Gold’ cultivar
changes gradually to golden-yellow. Some cultivars of avocado
also maintain their green skin color during maturation.
2. Firmness:
Some fruits may change in texture during maturation, and these
changes can be used to determine the harvest time. Textural
changes are detected subjectively by touch or gentle squeezing.
However, objective measurement can be achieved using pressure
testers and texture analyzers.
3. Soluble Solids Content and Starch content:
During maturation, starch in non-climacteric fruits is converted to
sugars. For climacteric fruits, starch accumulates during
maturation. Therefore, harvest maturity can be determined by
measuring the sugar content or starch content. Usually, the sugar
content is measured in total soluble solids content using a Brix
hydrometer or refractometer. Starch content is measured using
iodine to qualitatively determine the amount of starch. This
method is used in determining the maturity of pear cultivars,
whereby the fruit is cut into two and dipped into a solution
containing potassium iodide and iodine.
4. Number of days from fruit set:
Fruit set refers to the transition of a flower to fruit after
fertilization. It usually involves rapid cell division and expansion
of the ovary and the development of seeds. In some fruits, the
time taken between fruit sets until the fruit starts showing signs
of maturity has been recorded, which can be used to determine
harvest time.
For instance, in Alphonso and pairi mango varieties, it takes
about 110 to 125 days after fruit set for surface color to change
from dark green to olive-green and flesh color from white to pale
yellow (Bhatnagar and Suramanyam, 1971). On the other hand,
Tandon and Karla (1986) concluded that Langra and Mallik took
84 and 96 days after fruit set respectively to attain harvest
maturity.
5. Specific gravity:
The specific gravity of fruit can be considered an index for
maturity grading. Water has a specific gravity of 1.00, and
common salt solution (2.5% NaCl) has a specific gravity of 1.02,
and both are used in the maturity grading of mango fruits (Kapsa
and Katrodia 1997). e.g., the specific gravity of mango range
between 1.01-1.02.
Flail mower
Nut wizard-a rolling barrel used to collets nuts and other big
fruits
3.7.1 carry out marketing of fruit trees products
Determination of yield in fruit tree production
Many factors contribute to the profitability of an orchard. The two most important factors are
marketable yield per hectare and the price received for the fruit. Early yields also have a big
impact on profitability of a new orchard. In the early years of an orchard, tree density
generally has a greater effect on yield than does the training system. However, as the orchard
matures, yields can differ depending on the tree training system used.
High yield per hectare, or per acre, requires a high percentage of light interception, whether
in the first three years or when the orchard is fully bearing. The best way to obtain high early
light interception and thus high early yields is to plant trees closely. The specific tree training
used in the early years is less important than the tree density, as long as the spaces allotted to
the trees are filled quickly with bearing wood. As the orchard matures, the training system
must ensure that high light interception is achieved. The percentage of light intercepted by
the orchard is the most important factor in determining yield. For optimum yields, the orchard
should intercept at least 70 percent, but not more than 80 percent, of sunlight. All over the
world, orchardists are embracing this concept to achieve early and high yields of marketable
fruit.
A typical storage system for fruit is cold storage, using refrigerated air. Other
techniques include controlled-atmosphere (CA) storage and hypobaric storage. In CA
storage the oxygen and carbon dioxide content of the storage environment are
controlled in such a way as to retard senescence and further deterioration of the fruit.
In general, oxygen levels are reduced and carbon dioxide levels increased. CA
conditions can be generated in a number of ways. Conventional CA depends on the
respiration of the fruit to generate carbon dioxide, and the concentration of this gas
is controlled by wet scrubbers, hydrated lime, or other commercial carbon dioxide
removal systems. Liquid nitrogen and compressed nitrogen gas have also been used
to flush out the ambient air of the storage facility. In other systems oxygen
is converted to carbon dioxide by reaction with liquid propane or by catalytic
burning.
Hypobaric storage involves the cold storage of fruit under partial vacuum. Typical
conditions include pressures as low as 80 and 40 millimetres of mercury and
temperatures of 5 °C (40 °F). Hypobaric conditions reduce ethylene production and
respiration rates; the result is an extraordinarily high-quality fruit even after months
of storage.
Packaging
Packaging systems for fresh fruit usually involve a simple plastic breathable bag or
overwrap. However, as the market value of high-quality fruit has increased, so too
have efforts to develop improved packaging. These efforts have been primarily in the
area of modified-atmosphere packaging (MAP). In this type of packaging the barrier
properties of the material are carefully selected according to the respiration
characteristics of the fruit. The goal is to allow an exchange of gases and moisture
that produces the optimal storage environment. Continued work in this field is
producing “smart” films, which not only produce the optimal atmosphere for storage
but also change their barrier properties depending on the ambient temperature and
on the respiration rate of the fruit.
Fruit juice
orange juice
Cups of orange juice cooling on ice.
After fresh fruit, one of the most common fruit products is fruit juice. Fruit juice can
take on many forms, including a natural-style cloudy product, a “nectar”-type
product containing suspended solids, a fully clarified juice, juice concentrate, and
fruit drinks.
Juice extraction
Preparation
Fruit is prepared for juice extraction by removing unwanted parts. This may include
pitting operations for stone fruit such as apricots, cherries, or plums or peeling for
such fruits as pineapples. In one large class of fruit, citrus fruit, juice extraction and
separation from the peel are combined. Two major juice extraction systems for citrus
exist. One is a reaming technique, in which the fruit is cut in half and the individual
halves reamed to extract both the juice and the inner fruit solids. In the second major
system, a hole is punched in the fruit and the juice squeezed out at the same time.
If the entire fruit is to be used in the juice, then typically it is disintegrated in a drum
grater or a hammer mill. Care must be taken to control disintegration so that the
particle size of the mash is compatible with the press system.
Pressing
Many different types of press are used for juice extraction. The most traditional is
a rack-and-frame press, in which ground fruit (mash) is pumped into cloth
partitions, called cheeses, which are separated by wooden or metallic racks. After a
stack of cheeses has been produced, the press is activated and the juice expressed
from the assembly.
Many variations of the rack-and-frame press exist. These include the continuous belt
press, the bladder press, and the basket press.
Liquefaction
As an alternative to press systems, some processors have gone to total enzymatic
liquefaction of the fruit mash. Cellulase and pectinase enzymes are added, and the
mash is heated in order to accelerate the enzyme’s performance.
Clarification
Pectinization
If the juice is to be clarified further or concentrated after extraction, treatment with
pectinase may be required. The juice is monitored for pectin content using a
qualitative pectin check, consisting of combining one part juice with two parts
ethanol. If a gel forms, pectin is still present and depectinization must continue.
When depectinization is complete, a floc is typically formed by the aggregation of
partially degraded pectin-protein aggregates.
Filtration
Filtration systems are varied in design, operation, and application. The most
traditional system is diatomaceous earth (DE) filtration, in which DE is used
to aggregate and collect suspended solids. The DE is collected on filter paper inside
the pressure filter as the juice passes through the unit. The resulting juice is
sparkling clear. Owing to concern over the cost of DE and its disposal, other filtration
processes have been designed. The most successful is membrane filtration, in which
hollow fibre, open tubular, or ceramic membranes are employed in juice filtration
systems.
Preservation
fruit juice; orange juice
Automated equipment at an orange juice bottling plant.
Once the juice has been clarified, it is ready to be preserved. In some cases large
reserves of single-strength juice are kept in juice silos after having been pasteurized,
but usually the juice is immediately processed into retail or institutional packages.
For a single-strength juice packaging line, a typical process is to heat the juice to 88
°C (190 °F) and then bottle it. This produces a shelf-stable product.
For producing concentrate, the juice is passed through an evaporator, where the level
of soluble solids is typically brought to 70 percent by weight. Retail packages of
concentrate are typically filled at 45 percent dissolved solids; at this concentration a
three-to-one dilution by the consumer will create a finished product with a soluble
solid level of approximately 12 percent.
The essential ingredients for a successful preserve are sugar, acid, and pectin. These
three ingredients lower the pH of the preserve and bind available water, thus
creating an environment in which the growth of microorganisms is retarded. In some
cases the fruit can provide all the pectin and acid that are needed. If the acid content
of the fruit is low, external sources such as lemon juice can be added. Similarly, if the
planned mix of fruit is low in pectin, a commercial source may be used. Sugar is
always added, and in general all of the three essential ingredients have to be added in
order to create a successful product.
The making of preserves begins with an initial mix containing not less than 45 parts
by weight fruit for every 55 parts by weight sugar solids. The sugar solids are added
after the fruit is crushed, and the mix is then cooked. Cooking may be done in a
highly controlled vacuum kettle, in which flavour volatiles are captured and returned
to the product. The cooking process continues until the heated mix is concentrated to
a predetermined level of soluble solids. A generally accepted level is 65 percent
soluble solids; at this concentration the boiling temperature is 7° to 12° above
the boiling point of water. The product is then transferred to containers and sealed as
a shelf-stable product.
The exact amount of sugar needed depends on the acidity level, the natural sugar
content, and the type of product desired. If sugar content is too low, the resulting
jelly will be tough; excessive sugar, on the other hand, will create a “soft set” that can
be broken easily. Appropriate amounts of acid and pectin are added during the
cooking process. The pH must be adjusted to an acidic level of approximately 3.1.
Increased acidity reduces the amount of sugar needed in the blend, although
excessive acidity can cause syneresis, or a separation of liquid from the gel. If the
pectin level is inadequate, then the preserve will not “set”; that is, not enough water
will be bound to create a complete gel.
Fruit preservation
Since fruits are generally acidic, they are naturally amenable to preservation. The
premier role of acidity in preservation is to stop bacterial growth. Second, increased
acidity can activate chemical reactions such as pectin set, which lowers water activity
and reduces the possibility of microbial growth.
Dehydration
Dehydration is among the oldest and most common forms of fruit preservation.
In dehydration, moisture in the fruit is driven off, leaving a stable food that has a
moisture content below that at which microorganisms can grow. There are three
basic systems for dehydration: sun drying, such as that used for raisins; hot-air
dehydration; and freeze-drying.
dried fruit; dehydrated fruit
Dried fruits, churchkhela, and sweets in a market in Yerevan, Armenia.
Dehydration has a number of advantages. Dehydrated fruit has a virtually unlimited
shelf life when held under proper storage conditions. Drying does not significantly
reduce the calories or minerals, and vitamin losses are similar to other preservation
methods. In addition, by reducing the weight and the need for refrigeration, handling
and transportation costs can be reduced dramatically. Dehydrated fruits are typically
reduced in weight by 75 to 90 percent.