PRINCIPLES OF PATTERN MAKING AND

MEASUREMENTS
 PRINCIPLES OF DRAFTING

Drafting refers to creating patterns and sketches that communicate design ideas and
garment construction.

1. Proportion and Scale: Understand the proportions of the human body and how
garments relate to it. Maintaining accurate scale in sketches ensures that designs are
feasible in real life.

2. Silhouette: Focus on the overall shape of the garment. The silhouette dramatically
affects the visual impact of a design and should complement the body's shape.

3. Line and Shape: Use lines to create movement and define elements of the garment.
The lines should lead the eye and help to communicate the style and character of the
design.

4. Functionality: Consider the wearability and practicality of the garment. The design
should allow for ease of movement and functionality in different contexts.

5. Fabric Consideration: Different fabrics behave differently. Understand how the

choice of fabric affects the drape, fit, and overall appearance of the garment.

6. Color and Texture: Explore how color and texture can enhance a design. Drafting
should reflect the color scheme and texture choices that align with the design intent.

7. Details and Finishing: Pay attention to the details (e.g., seams, fastenings, hems) that
contribute to the garment's overall look and how they should be represented in the
draft.
8. Technical Accuracy: Include dimensions, annotations, and construction details that
are essential for pattern making and garment production.

9. Iteration and Adaptation: Be prepared to revise and adapt designs based on

feedback, practicality, and new ideas. Fashion is often about evolving concepts.

10. Inspiration and Trends: Stay updated on fashion trends and draw inspiration from
various sources, integrating contemporary ideas while showcasing your unique style.
 PAPPER PATTERN

A paper pattern is a template or guide used to create a specific shape or design,

typically for sewing, crafting, or other DIY projects. It's usually made of paper or
cardstock and serves as a blueprint to cut out fabric, fabric pieces, or other materials.

There are different types of paper patterns:

1. Sewing patterns: Used for garment construction, accessories, or home decor items.

2. Quilting patterns: For creating quilt blocks, designs, and layouts.

3. Crafting patterns: For paper crafting, card making, or scrapbooking.

4. Embroidery patterns: Guides for embroidery designs.

ADVANTAGES OF PAPPER PATTERN

1. Accuracy: Drafting ensures precise measurements and fitting.

2. Customization: Patterns can be tailored to individual body types.

3. Efficiency: Saves time and fabric by minimizing errors.

4. Replicability: Duplicate patterns for consistent production.

5. Flexibility: Easily modify patterns for design changes.

6. Cost-effective: Reduces fabric waste and alterations.

7. Professional finish: Achieve polished, high-quality garments.

8. Pattern preservation: Store and reuse patterns for future designs.

9. Communication tool: Clear documentation for production teams.

10. Design exploration: Experiment with shapes, proportions, and silhouettes.
 COMMERCIAL PAPPER PATTERN

Commercial paper patterns are pre-printed, pre-cut templates used for sewing
garments, accessories. They're widely available in various sizes, styles, and complexity
levels.

Advantages:

1. Convenience: Easy to use, saving time.

2. Accuracy: Ensures precise measurements.

3. Variety: Numerous designs, styles, and sizes.

4. User-friendly: Instructions and guides included.

5. Accessibility: Available online and in-store.

Features:

1. Multi-size options

2. Step-by-step instructions

3. Illustrated guides

4. Fabric requirements

5. Notions (buttons, zipper) lists

Digital Options:

1. PDF patterns (print-at-home)

2. Digital downloads (cutting files for CNC machines)

Benefits for:

1. Beginners: Learn sewing techniques.

2. Intermediate sewists: Expand skills.

3. Professional designers: Streamline production.

 PATTERN MAKING AND METHOD OF PATTERN
MAKING

PATTERN MAKING

Pattern making is the process of creating a blueprint or template for sewing garments,
accessories, or home decor items. A pattern is a template used to cut fabric pieces for
garment construction. Patterns can be made for various types of clothing, including
dresses, pants, shirts, and outerwear.

Types of Patterns
1. Flat Patterns: Created by drafting shapes on a flat surface; used for making basic
block patterns.

2. Draped Patterns: Made by draping fabric on a dress form to create shapes that fit
the body.

3.Digital Patterns: Patterns created and manipulated using computer software.

Basic Components of a Pattern

Pattern Pieces: Individual sections that make up a garment (e.g., bodice, sleeve, skirt).

Seam Allowances: Extra material included on the edges of pattern pieces for sewing.

Notches: Small cuts that indicate where pieces align during assembly.

Grainline: Indicates the direction of the fabric’s grain, essential for proper drape and
fit.

Marking Symbols: Indicators for darts, pleats, pockets, and other design features.

. Tools and Materials

- Pattern paper (such as muslin or commercial pattern paper)

- Ruler and French curve for accurate measurements

 - Pencil/chalk for marking

- Scissors and rotary cutters

- Measuring tape

. Steps in Pattern Making

1. Design Concept: Start with sketches and design ideas.

2. Measurements: Take accurate measurements of the intended wearer.

3. Block Creation: Create a basic block or sloper based on measurements.

4. Drafting the Pattern: Use the block to draft the pattern pieces for the design.

5. Seam Allowances: Add seam allowances to all necessary edges.

6. Cutting and Marking: Cut out the pattern pieces and add any necessary markings.

7. Testing with Muslin: Create a muslin sample to test the fit and make adjustments.

Fitting Adjustments

- After testing, make adjustments based on the fit, such as altering the bust, waist,
hips, and length.

- Common fitting issues include gaping, tightness, and shoulder slope adjustments.

Finalizing the Pattern

- Once satisfied with the fit, finalize the pattern by making any last tweaks and
preparing it for cutting in fabric.

Pattern Storage

- Store patterns flat or rolled to avoid creases.

- Use labelled envelopes or binders for organization.

Methods of Pattern Making

1. Drafting

Drafting involves creating 2D drawings of garment components using measurements,

calculations, and geometric shapes.

Merits:

1. Accuracy

2. Efficiency

3. Flexibility

4. Cost-effective

5. Easy modifications

Demerits:

1. Requires mathematical skills

2. Time-consuming for complex designs

3. Limited creativity

2. Draping

Draping involves creating 3D shapes on a mannequin or form using fabric.

Merits:

1. Visual representation

2. Easy to achieve complex shapes

3. Allows for texture and drape experimentation

4. Fast prototyping

Demerits:

1. Requires skill and experience

2. Fabric waste

3. Limited precision

Pattern Making Techniques

1. Flat Pattern Making

2. Draping

3. Sloper-Based Drafting

4. Block Pattern Making

5. Computer-Aided Design (CAD)

DRAPING DRAFTING
Accuracy medium high
Speed fast medium
complexity high low
Creativity high low
Fabric waste high low
BASIC BLOCKS

BASIC BOICE FRONT AND BACK

BASIC SLEEVE

BASIC SKIRT