GARMENT MAKING SECTION

PATTERN DRAFTING

TECH 1

MISS FATOGUN OLURONKE O.

 OBJECTIVES

By the end of this lesson, the students

should be able to:
1. Define Pattern Drafting
2. Understand Pattern Drafting terms and
terminologies
3. Identify Pattern Drafting tools and their uses
4. Know how to take accurate body
measurements.
 INTRODUCTION

Pattern Drafting can be defined as the process

of using measurements taken from a form or model to create
basic, foundation, or design patterns. An example is the draft of
the basic pattern set or templates referred to as the pattern
blocks or slopers.
 PATTERNMAKING TERMS &
TERMINOLOGY
 FLAT PATTERNMAKING
This is a system of using already drafted blocks or slopers to
make 2 dimensional patterns that when sewn together create a
desired fit.

.
 BASIC BLOCKS/SLOPERS
This is a five-piece pattern set consisting of the front and back bodice,
front and back skirt and sleeve. Pattern blocks have been tested to
have an impeccable and a perfect fit. The basic blocks are altered to
create a variety of new styles.
 COMMERCIAL PATTERN
Commercial patterns are already made patters produced from
measurements based on what industry calls "Standard
measurements“. These patterns are made into various designs
and are sold to designers or individuals.
Commercial patterns
Dart:  A wedge-shaped cut-out in a pattern to control the fit of a
garment. Dart, when sewn enable a flat, two-dimensional
pattern piece to take shape on a three-dimensional figure.
Bust point: A designated place on the bust and
pattern and referred to in flat patternmaking as the
pivotal point or apex.

Dart intake: The amount of excess (or space)

confined between dart legs. Its purposes are to take
up excess where it is not needed, and to gradually
release fabric where it is needed to control the fit of
the garment.

Dart legs: The two lines that converge at a

predetermined point on the pattern.
• Apex: The highest point of a dart or a curve.

• Armscye: The point on a pattern in which the sleeve is sewn.

• Blend:  Blending is a process of smoothing and shaping lines to

create a smooth transition from one point to another. Similarly,
blending can occur when connecting two separate lines or
curves to create a pattern pieces. This is usually done using the
common pattern making rulers.
• Trueing: The blending and straightening of pencil lines,
crossmarks, and dot marks for the purpose of establishing
correct seam lengths—for example, trueing a side seam having
a side dart.
 
• Ease or Tolerance: this is the extra amount allowed in a
pattern for easy movement.

• Working pattern: Any pattern used as a base for

manipulation when generating design patterns. In this
text the basic pattern set is the base for design projects.

• Production pattern: A production pattern is the final

corrected and error-free version. The pattern contains
every pattern piece required to complete the garment
• Grading: is the proportional increase, or decrease in the
size of a pattern. The purpose of grading is to fit a range
of body types and sizes from one base pattern style. Each
pattern piece is methodically increased or decreased to
create a new size, while keeping the same intended fit,
shaping, and proportion of the original base pattern.
Graded patterns are done singularly, or graded one on
top of the other (nesting) as seen in the diagram below.
• Muslin:  A plain weave, unbleached cotton fabric available in
a variety of weights. It is used to perfect the fit of a pattern
before the slopers, or final patterns are created.

• Notch: Symbols, or markings used on a pattern to indicate

cutting lines, joining points, hems, dart legs, CF (center
front) and CB (center back), etc. Single notches refer to the
front of a pattern and a double notch refers to the back of a
pattern.

• Seam Allowance: The area added to a pattern to between

the cutting line and the stitching line allowing for a specific
amount of extra fabric.
• Grain: The direction of the threads in a woven fabric.
(lengthwise grain, or warp; crosswise grain, or weft).
• Crosswise grain (weft): Yarns woven across the fabric from
selvage to selvage. It is the filling yarn of woven fabrics.
Crosswise grain yields to tension.
• Lengthwise grain (warp): Yarns parallel with selvage and at
right angles to the crosswise grain. It is the most stable
grain.
• Selvage: The narrow, firmly woven, and finished strip on
both lengthwise grain edges of the woven fabric. Clipping
selvage releases tension.
• True bias: The line that intersects with the lengthwise and
crosswise grains at a 45° angle. True bias has maximum
give and stretch, easily conforming to the figure's contours.
Flares, cowls, and drapes work best when cut on true bias.
 TYPES OF PATTERN DRAFTING
There are two most common methods of drafting a
pattern:
•  Dart Manipulation: changing the location of a dart
within the pattern frame i.e. the repositioning of
dart around the pattern block.
• Slashing and Spreading: your pattern to add fullness
in the sleeve, skirt, or anywhere that you don't want a
fitted look.

With these 2 basic pattern drafting techniques, you can

achieve ANY design you desire!
Dart manipulation
Slashing and Spreading
 PATTERNMAKING TOOLS AND THEIR USES
To work efficiently, the pattern maker must have the proper
pattern making tools and supplies.
 PATTERNMAKING TOOLS AND THEIR USES

Tape Measure:
A tape measure or measuring tape is the basic and a
common measuring tool. It is flexible and clearly marked
and used to know the exact size of a figure, form or
distance.
 PATTERNMAKING TOOLS AND THEIR USES

Dressmakers or Tailors Pins: They are

used to hold pieces of patterns and fabrics in place, anchor
seam allowances as you sew, fit fabric on the body, and
secure all sorts of trims and delicate sequins and other
accessories.
 PATTERNMAKING TOOLS AND THEIR USES

Pattern Papers: Pattern Paper is a paper that is

used for creating patterns. It can be used for creating
patterns from scratch or even tracing existing patterns to
preserve the original pattern. They come in different sizes,
colours and thickness
 PATTERNMAKING TOOLS AND THEIR USES

Scissors: A pair of scissors consists of a pair of metal

blades pivoted so that the sharpened edges slide against
each other when the handles opposite to the pivot are
closed. Scissors are used for cutting pattern papers,
cardboard, and fabrics. It is important to have at least two
pairs of scissors, one for paper and the other for fabrics.
 PATTERNMAKING TOOLS AND THEIR USES

Stationery set: This consists of pencils, preferable

HB and 4H, sharpeners and erasers. Mechanical pens are
also used for making patterns.
 PATTERNMAKING TOOLS AND THEIR USES

Rulers: They are used to measure and to draw lines.

Some special purpose rulers are used to draw accurate
angles.
 Patternmaster

 Grader Set square

 Grader Ruler
 PATTERNMAKING TOOLS AND THEIR USES
Rulers: (continuation)
 L-Square

 Meter Rule
 PATTERNMAKING TOOLS AND THEIR USES
Curve Rulers: they are used to draw a wide range
of curves by simply turning. It is especially useful to the pattern maker
in drawing arm holes, sleeve caps, necklines, collars and in adjusting
waist and crotch fit of garments. Can almost substitute for a full set of
French curves.
 French Curves

 Hip and Leg curve

 Armhole Curve
 PATTERNMAKING TOOLS AND THEIR USES

Curve Rulers:

 Vary Form Curve

 Flexible ruler or Flexi Curve

 PATTERNMAKING TOOLS AND THEIR USES

Awl: it is used to pierce holes in patterns and fabrics to

indicate darts points, pockets, button placements etc.

Pattern Notcher: it is used to create 1/4" deep

square cuts in the edge of patterns to indicate seam
allowance, center lines and also to identify front and back
patterns.
 PATTERNMAKING TOOLS AND THEIR USES
Tracing Wheel: it is used to transfer markings
and shapes from a working pattern to a final pattern or
fabric.

Water gum or stick glue or masking

tape: They are used to join or hold pattern pieces
together.
 PATTERNMAKING TOOLS AND THEIR USES
Dress Form: it is also known as tailors dummy. It is
for fitting garments and also for draping.
 TAKING ACCURATE BODY MEASUREMENTS
To achieve a good garment fit, it is important to take accurate
measurements.
Some general guidelines for taking body measurements:
 For accuracy, measure over undergarments or with well
fitted clothes e.g. jersey top and leggings. Jeans and other
bulky clothes affect the measurements.
 Measure with the tape measure flat and firm but not tight.
 It will be perfect if you can wear lingerie or
undergarments you intend to wear with the final garment,
while taking the measurement. This is especially important for
perfectly fitted clothes like a tight gown, fitted blouse/corset.
If you intend to wear underewired, padded, push-up or other
figure-altering underwears, this should be considered.
 TAKING ACCURATE BODY MEASUREMENTS
 If you plan to wear heels and you are making a long gown, do
not forget to wear the heels or a similar one when taking
measurement
 Choose a good and accurate tape measure. Keep it level
(parallel to the ground) all the time you are taking horizontal
measures
 Adhere to the old saying – Measure twice and cut once
 The person taking the measurement should be on the right
side of the person
 All circumference measurements should be taken with tape
measure parallel to the floor.
 The person being measured should stand straight, in a
relaxed upright posture on both feet, feet  some 15 cms
apart.
TAKING ACCURATE BODY MEASUREMENTS
 BASIC BODY MEASUREMENTS

Key areas to be measured can be grouped into three, which are,

Vertical, Horizontal and round measurements.

• Vertical measurements are measurements taken from the

shoulder downwards.

• Horizontal measurements are taken from side to side.

• Round measurements are taken around the body.

 KEY AREAS TO BE MEASURED
• Neck round – Measure around the base of the neck (slightly
loose; do not take this too tight)
• Shoulder to shoulder – This is measured from shoulder bone
on one side to the other side shoulder bone.
• Bust round Wrap the measuring tape around your back and
across the fullest part of your breasts. Do not pull the tape too
tight or hold it loose. It should sit smugly, without it slipping
off
• Waist round ( waist measure) - Wrap the measuring tape
around the smallest part of your torso at the waist. This is
mostly just above the belly button ( about an inch above).
• Waist length – Measure from shoulder to waist which is the
narrowest part of the torso.
 KEY AREAS TO BE MEASURED

• Hip length – Measure from shoulder to hip. For men take this
measurement 8 inches from waist ; for small boys take this 6
inches from waist and for teenage boys take 7 inches.
• Hip round – Measure around the hips ( where it is the
broadest) 
• Sleeve round- Measure around the arms where the sleeve
should end.
• Length of the garment-Measured from the shoulder (close to
the neck, where it is highest) to where you want the garment
hemline. Tape should go over the fullest part of the bust.
 KEY AREAS TO BE MEASURED

• Sleeve length – This is according to your preference . Where

your sleeve should end. If the sleeve length is past the elbow
you should bend the arm slightly when taking the
measurement.
• Neck Depth – From the base of the neck measure how much
depth you want for the Front neckline and Back neckline. A
comfortable neck depth for back is from 1 inch to 3 inch but
you can go as deep as you want but for front neck line do not
go too deep ( for reasons you know). A 6.5 inch is what I
usually use; again individual preference and also depending
on the pattern. 
 KEY AREAS TO BE MEASURED
• Neck width – This is usually taken as 1/12 th of the bust round
– so if you have a bust round of 36 inch you should take a
neck width of 3 inch. This is a very close width and you can
add a 1/2 inch for a relaxed neck. 
• Armhole depth (Armscye) – Armscye is basically the measure
around the your arm joint – it is taken about 1/2 inch further
from the armpit. The armhole depth refers to the measure
from the back nape of neck to the bust line. This is taken
according to the bust round or as per the measurement you
have made on the body. You can use easy calculation of bust
round/8 + 3.5 inches for this measure.
 CONCLUSION
There are two major
techniques of pattern
drafting which are:
1.Dart Manipulation
2.Slashing and Spreading
References:
You can make references to the
following:
• PatternMaking for Fashion Design by
Helen Joseph-Armstrong
• www.thecreativecurator.com
• www.sewguide.com
ASSESSMENT:
1. WHAT IS PATTERN DRAFTING?
2. LIST TWO TECHNIQUES OF
PATTERN DRAFTING.
3. LIST 10 PATTERNMAKING TOOLS
AND THEIR USES.
4. LIST 7 PATTERNMAKING TERMS
 O U
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