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The Project Gutenberg eBook of Sewage and
Garbage Disposal on the Farm
This ebook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the
Project Gutenberg License included with this ebook or online at
www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you will have
to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this
eBook.

Title: Sewage and Garbage Disposal on the Farm

Author: J. W. Rockey
Joseph Winslow Simons

Release date: July 10, 2020 [eBook #62605]

Most recently updated: October 18, 2024

Language: English

Credits: Produced by Tom Cosmas

*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SEWAGE AND GARBAGE

DISPOSAL ON THE FARM ***
 SEWAGE and
GARBAGE
DISPOSAL
on the
FARM

FARMERS' BULLETIN No. 1950

U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE

T HIS Bulletin is a guide to up to-date methods

for the sanitary disposal of sewage and other
household and farm wastes. It tells how to
construct satisfactory sanitary facilities and how to
maintain them and gives special attention to the
questions on sanitation asked most frequently by
farm people.
Solutions to all problems cannot be given here,
and often advice must be sought from local
sanitary officials. Many county and State health
departments furnish advice and copies of local
regulations and sometimes provide inspection
service. Where there are no specific local
requirements, this bulletin may be accepted as a
guide to safe practice.

Issued March 1944

 Washington, D. C. Revised June 1946

SEWAGE AND GARBAGE

DISPOSAL
ON THE FARM
By J. W. Rockey, assistant agricultural engineer,[1] and J. W. Simons,
associate agricultural engineer, Division of Farm Buildings and Rural Housing,
Bureau of Plant Industry, Soils, and Agricultural Engineering, Agricultural
Research Administration
[1] The senior author prepared the preliminary draft, and the junior
author completed the bulletin.
 Contents
Page
Characteristics of sewage 1
Protection of water sources from household wastes 2
Septic-tank systems 2
Operation of a septic tank system 2
Selecting the site 4
The house sewer 4
The septic tank 8
Building a concrete tank 11
The effluent sewer 13
The disposal field 13
Disposal methods in tight or wet soils 14
Care and maintenance of septic tanks 17
Effect of drain solvents and other materials 17
Protection against freezing 17
Septic-tank troubles 18
Grease traps 18
Disposal of drainage from fixtures other than toilets 19
Cesspools 20
Privies 21
Care, and maintenance 22
Chemical closets 24
Disposal of garbage and trash 25

TO INSURE healthful living, domestic wastes must be disposed of.

Primitive wanderers and too often present-day tourists deposit their wastes
promiscuously and move on when the surroundings become foul. This is
impractical in built-up communities. Therefore, in most cities and in some
rural areas sanitary codes regulate the disposal of wastes.
 CHARACTERISTICS OF SEWAGE
Household sewage ordinarily consists principally of human excrement,
toilet paper, garbage, dish water, and other wash water from the various
plumbing fixtures and floor drains.
Many kinds of bacteria, at times disease-producing ones, are contained in
the discharges from the human body. Epidemics of typhoid fever, dysentery,
diarrhea, cholera, and other water-borne diseases may result from the
pollution of the water supply with sewage. Pollution is carried by water
moving underground, as well as by water flowing on the surface. This is
especially true in limestone regions, where underground channels and rock
crevices permit water to flow for considerable distances with little filtering
action. Sewage used for fertilizing or irrigating crops[2] may contaminate
vegetables or the udders of cows and thus spread disease. Anthrax, cholera,
and parasitic worms may be present in the surface drainage from fields and
barn lots. It is wise to regard all sewage as dangerous and to dispose of it
promptly in a sanitary manner, so that disease germs will not pollute the
water supplies or be spread by flies, animals, or man.
[2] This subject is discussed at length in Technical Bulletin 675, Sewage
Irrigation as Practiced in the Western States.
PROTECTION OF WATER SOURCES FROM
HOUSEHOLD WASTES
Under most farm conditions a safe place for the disposal of wastes is in
the upper 3-foot layer of soil, where the action of bacteria tends to render it
harmless. Tile disposal fields, such as are used with septic tanks, and earth-
pit privies accomplish this if the water table remains several feet below the
surface and if the location is remote from water supplies. Cesspools and other
types of pits do not ordinarily confine contamination to their immediate
vicinity and are not recommended except for special conditions.
Sewage or other wastes discharged into abandoned wells or other pits
that reach to the water table or below it are almost certain to contaminate
the ground water.
It is generally poor practice, and often illegal, to discharge wastes into
surface streams. Streams do not necessarily purify themselves in 50 feet, 100
feet, or some other stated distance, as is commonly believed. They do tend to
purify themselves over long distances through the action of sunlight, aeration,
and other factors but may not be safe for domestic use for many miles below
the source of pollution. Clear, sparkling water is not always safe drinking
water. Streams in agricultural communities are subject to many sources of
pollution and they are likely to become more contaminated as they merge
into larger streams.
 SEPTIC-TANK SYSTEMS
Septic-tank systems, if installed and maintained properly, provide the most
sanitary method of sewage disposal for farmhouses equipped with running
water.
Ground water or rock close to the surface, lack of sufficient fall for the
sewage to flow by gravity, and too small an absorption area for the effluent
limit the satisfactory operation of a septic tank. When these conditions exist,
special advice should be sought from a competent local sanitary authority.
Adverse soil conditions can be overcome if sufficient fall and space are
available.
The five essential parts (fig. 1) of a septic-tank system are (1) the house
sewer; (2) the septic tank; (3) the effluent sewer; (4) the distribution box;
and (5) the disposal field. In special cases a grease trap (see fig. 11, p. 19) is
added. To facilitate inspection and repairs it is good practice to keep in the
house a chart showing the location of the tank and other parts of the system.
A septic tank does not necessarily purify the sewage, eliminate odor, or
destroy all solid matter. Its purpose is to condition the sewage or domestic
waste by bacterial action, so that it can be disposed of in a more satisfactory
manner.
 Figure 1.—A septic-tank system.

OPERATION OF A SEPTIC-TANK SYSTEM

In a septic-tank system the sewage flows by gravity from the farmhouse
through the sewer into the tank, where it should remain at least 24 hours.
While passing through the tank the solids are acted upon by anaerobic
bacteria, which work only in the dark and where there is little air. The heavy
particles settle to the bottom as sludge, the lighter particles float as scum,
and the remainder passes out of the tank through the effluent sewer to the
disposal field. The gas released in the process escapes through a vent
provided either in the T to the house sewer or the effluent sewer.
A tank that is too small may fill up with solids in a short while, because
sufficient time is not allowed for breaking them down by fermentation, or the
sewage may be pushed right through into the disposal field and clog it.
The effluent may contain even more disease germs than the original
sewage, and though it may be as clear as spring water it is far from pure and
may cause foul odors if discharged or allowed to pool on the surface of the
ground.
The final disposition of the effluent into the upper layer of the soil exposes
it to the action of aerobic bacteria. These bacteria, unlike those in the tank,
need air and cannot work in saturated soil or live much more than 3 feet
below the surface of the ground. The "living earth," or upper stratum, teems
with these bacteria, which convert the dangerous sewage and disease germs
into harmless matter and thus tend to purify the effluent if it remains long
enough in the top layers of soil before seeping into the subsoil and thence to
the ground water. Effluent discharged deep in the soil does not receive the
benefit of this purifying action.
Several types of septic tanks are in common use. The one described in this
bulletin is the single-chamber type, which can be built with or without siphon.
This should meet all average farm needs where there are not more than 16
members in the household. It would be advisable to consult the authorities of
the State agricultural college or local health department as to their
recommendations because frequently local conditions and larger
establishments require special installations.

SELECTING THE SITE

First install the tile disposal field where there will be least danger of
polluting water supplies, at least 100 feet from water sources if possible and
always at a lower surface elevation. This is of greatest importance. Even
though selecting a more distant location would result in greater initial cost, it
would be a good investment as protection against diseases that might result
from pollution of water sources. The site should slope away from the house
and away from the source of water. Gentle unshaded slopes free of trees or
shrubbery are best. Root-free locations are important because the open-
jointed tile cannot be "rootproofed." Porous, well-drained, gravelly, or sandy
soil allows greater purification. Do not have the disposal field in vegetable
gardens, under roadways, in swampy land, in muck soils, or in areas having
rock substrata sloping toward the water supply. Allow sufficient area, where
available, to enlarge the field later if needed.
The septic tank may be close to the house, but a more distant site would
reduce the likelihood of odors if leakage occurs. The tank should also be kept
50 feet or more from any source of water supply and at a lower elevation. It
should not be placed under driveways, pavements, or flower beds, as these
would make it not readily accessible for periodic inspection. Care should be
taken to insure that surface drainage from the area around the tank will not
reach the vicinity of the water supply.

THE HOUSE SEWER

Material
Vitrified salt-glazed clay or well-made concrete sewer pipe and cast-iron
soil pipe are the standard materials for house sewers on farms. Asphalt-
impregnated fiber pipe, of a type designed especially for house sewers,
appears to be satisfactory for this purpose. Cast-iron soil pipe with leaded
joints should be used when the sewer is within 50 feet of a well or suction
line from a well, within 10 feet of any drinking-water supply line under
pressure, within 5 feet of basement foundations, or when laid beneath
driveways with less than 3 feet of earth covering the pipes. When within 15
feet of large trees or shrubs, the sewers should have root-tight joints.

Size
For house sewers, 4- and 6-inch pipes are generally used. Where a 4-inch
pipe is used, cast-iron is commonly recommended. Grades with little fall
require larger pipes. The large sizes are also less liable to become clogged.
Clay pipe is made in pieces 2 or 21/2 feet long, whereas fiber-pipe sections
are 4 feet long and cast-iron pipe 5 feet long, so that there are fewer joints.
The minimum number of joints is desirable, as there is less danger of
stoppage.

Alinement
Run the house sewer in a straight line and avoid bends whenever possible.
Slight changes in direction may be made with one-sixteenth or one-eighth
bend fittings. For sharper changes of direction a manhole or distribution box
may be used. Changes in direction of more than 45 are not recommended
unless a manhole is provided. Clean-outs are desirable within 5 feet of the
septic tank where tanks are placed more than 20 feet from the building and
the sewer line is not buried deeper than 4 feet.

Establishing Line and Grade

The trench for laying the sewer is usually dug after the septic-tank
excavation has been completed and the elevation of the tank inlet
determined. A simple method of setting guides for the excavation is illustrated
in figure 2.

Digging the Trench

Start digging the trench at the tank end, so that rain or seepage will have
an outlet. Rounding the bottom of the trench to the shape of the pipe and
hollowing out basins for the "bell" ends allows the pipe to rest firmly
throughout its full length, permits full calking of joints, and relieves the strain
on them.

Laying the Pipe

Begin laying the pipe at the tank with the bell end uphill. Joints in clay-tile
pipe are commonly made with portland cement mortar or grout. Where root-
proof joints are essential, sulfur-sand compounds may be used or copper
rings provided and used with cement-mortar joints. Asphalt-mastic
compounds, however, are more satisfactory. For cast-iron soil pipe, lead is the
standard joint material.
After the hub is pushed into the bell, oakum (or old hemp rope) is packed
with a calking iron or a piece of wood (fig. 3, A.) solidly and evenly in the
joint to a depth of about half an inch to center the hub end in the bell and to
keep the joint filler from getting inside the pipe. Oil, grease, or dirt on the
joint surfaces should be removed, as it will prevent joint material from
sticking. Figure 3 shows the different jointing methods.
 Figure 2.—Establishing grade for sewer. A, 2- by
4-inch stakes are set each side of the trench
at convenient distances a, b, c, and d. Then
a board is nailed horizontally on the stakes
at d at a convenient height above the
bottom of the trench, that is, the bottom of
the sewer leaving the house. A board is
nailed likewise to the stakes at a the same
height above the inlet to the tank that d is
above the bottom of the trench. Similarly,
boards are set at b and c by sighting from a
to d so the tops of the intermediate boards
will be in line. B, The exact grade of the
sewer is obtained by measuring from the
grade cord with the 1- by 1-inch stick,
shown in detail. The length of the stick must
equal the height of the board above sewer
at d.

Bituminous, sulfur-sand, lead, and other commercial joint compounds are

poured while hot into the joint from a ladle (fig. 3, F), and when the work is
well done they form a joint that is practically root-proof. They are more
expensive than cement mortar.
 For molding hot compounds, a clay dike, or funnel, built about 3 inches
high around the triangular opening at the top of the jointer greatly aids in the
rapid and complete filling of the joint space. A hot joint must be poured
continuously, otherwise a seam may develop between successive pourings.
Bituminous compounds make a slightly elastic joint. A joint in 4-inch pipe
requires about 3/8 to 1/2 pound of compound and in 6-inch pipe about 1 to
11/2 pounds.

Sulfur-sand joints are hard and inelastic. The compound is made by mixing
together equal volumes of ordinary powdered sulfur and very fine clean sand,
preferably the finest quicksand, and then heating the mixture until the sulfur
melts. A 4-inch joint takes about 3/4 pound and a 6-inch joint about 17/8
pounds of the mixture. Commercial sulfur-joint compounds also are available.
 Figure 3.—Jointing sewer pipe. A, Using calking iron to force
packing into joint. B, Making joint with 1:2 portland
cement mortar. Use only enough water to dampen the
mix. Recalk after half an hour, to close shrinkage cracks.
C, The completed joint. Wrap finished joint with cloth and
keep dampened, to aid curing. D, Joint made by pouring
1:1 Portland cement grout of creamy consistency into a
form. This type of joint is not feasible unless the metal
forms shown are available. E, Use of asbestos runner
clamped around pipe, for pouring hot joint. F, Clay roll
used in place of asbestos runner. G, A completed
bituminous joint. H, Use of swab, to remove any joint
material forced through to inside of pipe.
Soft pig lead or old scrap lead is suitable for lead joints on cast-iron pipe.
About 3/4 pound per inch of pipe diameter is generally required for each joint.
The lead is hot enough to pour when it begins to char the paddle used to
skim off the impurities. When it cools it must be calked tightly to take up
shrinkage. The calking should be uniform around the entire joint and should
stop when the lead is tight. Heavy pounding or continued calking may crack
the bell of the pipe.
It is easier to get good, joints when the pipe is in a vertical position.
Therefore, two lengths of pipe are frequently joined and are then laid as a
single unit in the trench. In using terra cotta pipe, this procedure may be
followed only when the joint is made with a mastic compound. Cement-
mortar joints cannot be used in such cases.
Before filling the trench, the sewer should be tested to detect possible
leaks. Earth free from rubbish and large stones should then be tamped
around and about 1 foot above the pipe.

THE SEPTIC TANK

Flow Through the Tank
Slow, undisturbed flow through the tank is necessary for the separation of
solids and liquids and for bacterial action. Submerged inlets and outlets or
baffle boards reduce disturbance. A submerged outlet prevents scum from
passing out with the effluent.
 The single-chamber tank without a siphon, shown in figure 4, is easy to
build, inexpensive, and entirely satisfactory in most instances. In very tight
soils or for large installations a siphon and sometimes two chambers are
advisable.

Size
The tank should be large enough to retain the sewage at least 24 hours.
The size should be determined by the largest number of persons that may live
in the house, rather than by the number actually living there at the time the
tank is built. The additional cost of a large tank over a small one is relatively
little. If there is any question as to which of two sizes should be built, it is
wise to choose the larger. The dimensions recommended in the table in figure
4 are based on an average production of 50 gallons of sewage per person per
day.
Unusually large quantities of sewage call for a tank of large capacity. In
village and suburban homes where there is less food preparation than on
farms and where the number of persons is more or less fixed, slightly smaller
sizes will serve. In no case should the capacity of the tank below the flow line
be less than 500 gallons. A tank length of two to three times the width should
be maintained, and it is advisable to provide a depth of at least 4 feet below
the flow line.
Allow about 1 foot of "freeboard," or air space, above the flow line for the
accumulation of gases. This space is generally vented through the soil stack
of the house.
A siphon (fig. 5) with a dosing chamber is not considered necessary for a
farm septic tank except for large installations (1,000 gallons or more), for
those in tight soils, and where the disposal field is limited.
 CAPACITIES, DIMENSIONS, AND CONCRETE MATERIALS
FOR SEPTIC TANKS SERVING INDIVIDUAL DWELLINGS
Materials for
Maximum Liquid Recommended inside
concrete 1:21/2:4
number capacity dimensions
mix
of of tank
persons in Sand Gravel
Liquid Total Cement
served gallons Width Length cubic cubic
depth depth sacks
yards yards
4 or less 500 3'-0" 6'-0" 4'-0" 5'-0" 16 1 1/ 2 21 / 2
6 600 3'-0" 7'-0" 4'-0" 5'-0" 17 1 3 / 4 23 / 4
8 750 3'-6" 7'-6" 4'-0" 5'-0" 19 2 3
10 900 3'-6" 8'-6" 4'-0" 5'-0" 21 21 / 4 31 / 4

12 1100 4'-0" 5'-6" 4'-6" 5'-6" 24 21 / 4 31 / 2

14 1200 4'-0" 5'-0" 4'-6" 5'-6" 25 21 /

2
3
3 /4
3
2 /4 41 / 4
16 1500 4'-6" 10'-0" 4'-6" 5'-6" 28
Figure 4.—Single-chamber septic tank. Note
alternate use of baffle boards where sanitary
tees are omitted at inlet and outlet.
The siphon provides intermittent discharge of effluent, which allows time
for the disposal area to rest and aerate between discharges. This is more
important where the discharge is nearly continuous than in small installations.
The frequency and volume of the discharge into the tile field are controlled
by the sizes of the siphon and the dosage chamber. The dealer should be
informed of the size of the tank and the number of persons in the household,
in order that he may furnish the proper unit. A 3- or 4-inch siphon will be
adequate for almost any farmhouse installation.

Construction
Most septic tanks are built of concrete cast in place, since in this way
there is a minimum possibility of cracks developing. Concrete blocks, however
(not cinder blocks), stone, brick, or structural tile are sometimes used.
Prefabricated commercial tanks of concrete and various other materials also
are available.