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Blue Fool

The document provides a detailed schematic and bill of materials (BOM) for building a clone of the MXR Blue Box fuzz pedal, including modifications for octave selection. It includes instructions for wiring, testing the circuit, and ensuring proper connections for power and signal. Additional tips for soldering and component placement are also provided to aid in assembly.

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Andrés Galeotti
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2 views

Blue Fool

The document provides a detailed schematic and bill of materials (BOM) for building a clone of the MXR Blue Box fuzz pedal, including modifications for octave selection. It includes instructions for wiring, testing the circuit, and ensuring proper connections for power and signal. Additional tips for soldering and component placement are also provided to aid in assembly.

Uploaded by

Andrés Galeotti
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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Blue Fool

Octave-down fuzz fun from


this MXR Blue Box clone

PedalParts.co.uk
Schematic

BOM
Green shaded area is a LPB
boost circuit to bring the
signal level up to above
R22 56K unity. This isn’t in the
R1 2M2 R23 330R original circuit.
R2 150K R24 1M The switch selects between
R3 1M R25 100K 2-octaves down (original)
R4 470K R26 10K and 1-octave down (mod).
R5 1K R27 390R
R6 56K RLED 2K2 (CLR)
R7 10K
R8 1M C1 10n
R9 56K C2 1n
R10 10K C3 330p D1-3 1N4148
R11 1M C4 10u elec
R12 10K C5 47n IC1 4558
R13 56K C6 47n IC2 CD4013
R14 56K C7 10n
R15 56K C8 1u elec Q1-3 2N3904
R16 56K C9 1u elec Q4 2N5088
R17 56K C10 100u elec
R18 56K C11 10u elec BLEND 50KA
R19 1M C12 100u elec VOL 100KA
R20 56K C13 100n
R21 56K C14 220n SW1 SPDT (ON-ON)
SWITCH
This is optional, but
why wouldn’t you
include it?
If you want to take it
out, connect the switch
pads in one of these
combinations:

2-OCTAVE DOWN
(ORIGINAL)
1 - connect pads 1 and 2

2
1-OCTAVE DOWN
3 - connect pads 2 and 3

Wiring shown overleaf will disconnect the battery when you


remove the jack plug from the input, and also when a DC plug is
inserted.
Snap the little metal tag off the pots to mount them flush in the
box.
You should use some kind of heat sink on the legs of the diodes
and transistors when soldering. They aren’t keen on heat. Any 3
more than 3-4 seconds of iron and they’re toast.
2
1
I’ve incorporated the Current Limiting Resistor for the LED into
the board for your pleasure.
The switch mounts on the underside of the PCB. You can then
mount the whole board in the enclosure using it. Nice!
I recommend not leaving the switch until last - it can be
awkward to get the soldering iron in once all the components
are in place.

VOLUME - kinda self explanatory. The LPB boost I’ve


incorporated into the circuit will give you plenty of punch
BLEND - between Fuzz and Octave signal.
Test the board!
BATTERY

IN OUT

Once you’ve finished the circuit it makes sense to test is before


starting on the switch and LED wiring. It’ll cut down
troubleshooting time in the long run. If the circuit works at this
stage, but it doesn’t once you wire up the switch - guess what?
You’ve probably made a mistake with the switch.
Solder some nice, long lengths of wire to the board connections
for 9V, GND, IN and OUT. Connect IN and OUT to the jacks as
shown. Connect all the GNDs together (twist them up and add a
small amount of solder to tack it). Connect the battery + lead to the
9V wire, same method. Plug in. Go!
If it works, crack on and do your switch wiring. If not... aw man.
At least you know the problem is with the circuit. Find out why, get
it working, THEN worry about the switch etc.
Wire it up

The Board GND connections don’t all have to directly attach to the
board. You can run a couple of wires from the DC connector, one to the
board, another to the IN jack, then daisy chain that over to the OUT jack.
It doesn’t matter how they all connect, as long as they do.
This circuit is standard, Negative GND. Your power supply should be Tip
Negative / Sleeve Positive. That’s the same as your standard pedals
(Boss etc), and you can safely daisy-chain your supply to this pedal.
Now... rattle those speakers!

PedalParts.co.uk

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