9/8/98 AC 43.

13-1B

SECTION 3. TRANSPARENT PLASTICS

3-18. GENERAL. Plastics cover a broad location away from heating coils, radiators, or
field of organic synthetic resin and may be di­ steam pipes, and away from such fumes as are
vided into two main classifications – thermo­ found in paint spray booths or paint storage ar­
plastics and thermosetting plastics. eas.

a. Thermoplastics. Thermoplastics may a. Paper-masked transparent sheets

be softened by heat and can be dissolved in must be kept out of the direct rays of the sun,
various organic solvents. Two kinds of trans­ because sunlight will accelerate deterioration
parent thermoplastic materials are commonly of the adhesive, causing it to bond to the plas­
employed in windows, canopies, etc. These tic and making it difficult to remove.
materials are known as acrylic plastics and
cellulose acetate plastics. b. Plastic sheets should be stored with the
masking paper in place, in bins that are tilted
(1) Cellulose acetate was used in the at a ten-degree angle from the vertical. This
past but since it is dimensionally unstable and will prevent their buckling. If the sheets are
turns yellow after it has been installed for a stored horizontally, take care to avoid getting
time, it has just about passed from the scene dirt and chips between them. Stacks of sheets
and is not considered an acceptable substitute must never be over 18 inches high, with the
for acrylic. smallest sheets stacked on top of the larger
ones so there will be no unsupported overhang.
(2) Acrylic plastics are known by the Leave the masking paper on the sheets as long
trade names of Lucite or Plexiglas and by the as possible, and take care not to scratch or
British as Perspex and meet the military speci­ gouge the sheets by sliding them against each
fications of MIL-P-5425 for regular acrylic, other or across rough or dirty tables.
MIL-P-8184 for craze-resistant acrylic.
c. Formed sections should be stored with
b. Thermosetting Plastics. These plas­ ample support so they will not lose their shape.
tics do not soften appreciably under heat but Vertical nesting should be avoided. Protect
may char and blister at temperatures of formed parts from temperatures higher than
240 to 260 °C (400 to 500 °F). Most of the 120 °F (49 °C), and leave their protective
molded products of synthetic resin composi­ coating in place until they are installed on the
tion, such as phenolic, urea-formaldehyde, and aircraft.
melamine formaldehyde resins, belong to the
thermosetting group. Once the plastic be­ 3-20. FORMING PROCEDURES AND
comes hard, additional heat will not change it TECHNIQUES. Transparent acrylic plastics
back into a liquid as it would with a thermo­ get soft and pliable when they are heated to
plastic. their forming temperatures and can be formed
to almost any shape. When they cool, they re­
3-19. STORAGE AND HANDLING. Be­ tain the shape to which they were formed.
cause transparent thermoplastic sheets soften Acrylic plastic may be cold-bent into a single
and deform when they are heated, they must be curvature if the material is thin and the bend­
stored where the temperature will never be­ ing radius is at least 180 times the thickness of
come excessive. Store them in a cool, dry the sheet. Cold bending beyond these limits

Par 3-18 Page 3-15

AC 43.13-1B 9/8/98

will impose so much stress on the surface of

the plastic that tiny fissures or cracks, called
crazing, will form.

3-21. HEATING. Before heating any trans­

parent plastic material, remove all of the
masking paper and adhesive from the sheet. If
the sheet is dusty or dirty, wash it with clean
water and rinse it well. Dry the sheet thor­
oughly by blotting it with soft absorbent paper
towels.

NOTE: Wear cotton gloves when FIGURE 3-17. Hanging of acrylic sheets.
handling the plastic to eliminate finger
marks on the soft surface. d. Never use hot water or steam directly
on the plastic to heat it, because this will likely
a. For the best results when cause the acrylic to become milky or cloudy.
hot-forming acrylics, use the temperatures
recommended by the manufacturer. A 3-22. FORMS. Heated acrylic plastic will
forced-air oven should be used−one that is ca­ mold with almost no pressure, so the forms
pable of operating over a temperature range of used can be of very simple construction.
120 to 374 °F (49 to 190 °C). If the part gets Forms made of pressed wood, plywood, or
too hot during the forming process, bubbles plaster are adequate to form simple curves, but
may form on the surface and impair the optical reinforced plastic or plaster may be needed to
qualities of the sheet. shape complex or compound curves.

b. For uniform heating, it is best to hang a. Since hot plastic conforms to any
the sheets vertically by grasping them by their waviness or unevenness, the form used must
edges with spring clips and suspending the be completely smooth. To ensure this, sand
clips in a rack. (See figure 3-17.) If the piece the form and cover it with soft cloth such as
is too small to hold with clips, or if there is not outing flannel or billiard felt.
enough trim area, lay the sheets on shelves or
racks covered with soft felt or flannel. Be sure b. The mold should be large enough to
there is enough open space to allow the air to extend beyond the trim line of the part, and
circulate around the sheet and heat it evenly. provisions should be made for holding the hot
plastic snug against the mold as it cools.
c. Small forming jobs, such as landing
light covers, may be heated in a kitchen baking c. A mold can be made for a complex
oven. Infrared heat lamps may be used if they part by using the damaged part itself. If the
are arranged on 7-or 8-inch centers and enough part is broken, tape the pieces together, wax or
of them are used in a bank to heat the sheet grease the inside so the plaster will not stick to
evenly. Place the lamps about 18 inches from it, and support the entire part in sand. Fill the
the material. part with plaster and allow it to harden, and

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9/8/98 AC 43.13-1B

then remove it from the mold. Smooth out any d. Male And Female Die Forming. This
roughness and cover it with soft cloth. It is requires expensive matching male and female
now ready to use to form the new part. dies. The heated plastic sheet is placed be­
tween the dies which are then mated. When
3-23. FORMING METHODS. (See ta­ the plastic cools, the dies are opened.
ble 3-1.)
e. Vacuum-Forming Without Forms.
a. Simple Curve Forming. Heat the Many aircraft canopies are formed by this
plastic material to the recommended tempera­ method. In this process a clamp with an
ture, remove it from the heat source, and care­ opening of the desired shape is placed over a
fully drape it over the prepared form. Care­ vacuum box and the heated sheet of plastic is
fully press the hot plastic to the form and ei­ clamped in place. When the air in the box is
ther hold or clamp the sheet in place until it evacuated, the outside air pressure will force
cools. This process may take from ten minutes the hot plastic through the opening and form
to one-half hour. Do not force-cool it. the concave canopy. It is the surface tension of
the plastic that shapes the canopy.
b. Compound-Curve Forming. This
type of forming is normally used for such parts f. Vacuum-Forming With A Female
as canopies or complex wingtip light covers, Form. If the shape needed is other than that
and it requires a great deal of specialized which would be formed by surface tension, a
equipment. There are four commonly used female mold, or form must be used. It is
methods, each having its advantages and dis­ placed below the plastic sheet and the vacuum
advantages. pump is connected. When air from the form is
evacuated, the outside air pressure will force
c. Stretch Forming. Preheated acrylic the hot plastic sheet into the mold and fill it.
sheets are stretched mechanically over the
form in much the same way as is done with the g. Sawing And Drilling.
simple curved piece. Special care must be
taken to preserve uniform thickness of the (1) Several types of saws can be used
material, since some parts will have to stretch with transparent plastics, however circular
more than others. saws are the best for straight cuts. The blades

TABLE 3-1. Typical temperatures for forming acrylic sheets.

Thickness of sheet (in.) 0.125 0.250 0.125 0.250

Heat-resistant acrylic plastic,
Type of forming Regular acrylic plastic. MIL-P-5425, and craze-resistant acrylic plastic,
MIL-P-6886 MIL-P-8184
°C °F °C °F °C °F °C °F
Simple curve 113 235 110 230 135 275 135 275
Stretch forming
(dry mold cover) 140 284 135 275 160 320 150 302
Male and female forming 140 284 135 275 180 356 170 338
Vacuum forming without
form 140 284 135 275 150 302 145 293
Vacuum forming with
female form 145 293 140 284 180 356 170 338

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AC 43.13-1B 9/8/98

should be hollow-ground or have some set to

prevent binding. After the teeth are set, they
should be side-dressed to produce a smooth
edge on the cut. Band saws are recommended
for cutting flat acrylic sheets when the cuts
must be curved or where the sheet is cut to a
rough dimension to be trimmed later. Close
control of size and shape may be obtained by FIGURE 3-19. Unibit drill for drilling acrylic plastics.
band sawing a piece to within 1/16 inch of the
desired size, as marked by a scribed line on the h. Polymerizable Cements. Polymeri­
plastic, and then sanding it to the correct size zable cements are those in which a catalyst is
with a drum or belt sander. added to an already thick monomerpolymer
syrup to promote rapid hardening. Ce­
(2) Unlike soft metal, acrylic plastic is a ment PS-30 and Weld-On 40 are polymeri­
very poor conductor of heat. Make provisions zable cements of this type. They are suitable
for removing the heat when drilling. Deep for cementing all types of PLEXIGLAS acrylic
holes need cooling, and a water-soluble cutting cast sheet and parts molded from PLEXIGLAS
oil is a satisfactory coolant since it has no ten­ molding pellets. At room temperature, the
dency to attack the plastic. cements harden (polymerize) in the container
in about 45 minutes after mixing the compo­
(a) The drill used on acrylics must be nents. They will harden more rapidly at higher
carefully ground and free from nicks and burrs temperatures. The cement joints are usually
that would affect the surface finish. Grind the hard enough for handling within 4 hours after
drill with a greater included angle than would assembly. The joints may be machined within
be used for soft metal. The rake angle should 4 hours after assembly, but it is better to wait
be zero in order to scrape, not cut. (See fig­ 24 hours.
ure 3-18.)
(1) PS-30 and Weld-On 40 joints retain
excellent appearance and color stability after
outdoor exposure. These cements produce
clear, transparent joints and should be used
when the color and appearance of the joints are
important.

(2) PS-30 and Weld-On 40 should be

used at temperatures no lower than 65 °F. If
cementing is done in a room cooler than 65 °F,
FIGURE 3-18. Drill having an included angle of
it will require a longer time to harden and the
approximately 150°, used to drill acrylic plastics. joint strength will be reduced.

(b) The patented Unibit (see fig­ (a) The cement should be prepared
ure 3-19) is good for drilling small holes in with the correct proportions of components as
aircraft windshields and windows. It can cut given in the manufacturer’s instructions and
holes from 1/8-to 1/2−inch in 1/32−inch in­ thoroughly mixed, making sure neither the
crements and produces good smooth holes mixing container nor mixing paddle adds color
with no stress cracks around their edges. or affects the hardening of the cement.

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9/8/98 AC 43.13-1B

Clean glass or polyethylene mixing containers is easily done with a strip of cellophane tape
are preferred. placed over the masking tape adhesive. The
tape must be chosen carefully. The adhesive
(b) Because of their short pot life on ordinary cellophane tape prevents the cure
(approximately 45 minutes) Cement PS-30 and of PS-30 and Weld-On 40. Before actual fab­
Weld-On 40 must be used quickly once the rication of parts, sample joints should be tried
components are mixed. Time consumed in to ensure that the tape system used will not
preparation shortens the effective working harm the cement. Since it is important for all
time, making it necessary to have everything of the cement to remain in the gap, only con­
ready to be cemented before the cements are tact pressure should be used.
mixed. For better handling pour cement
within 20 minutes of mixing. (4) Bubbles will tend to float to the top
of the cement bead in a gap joint after the ce­
(c) For maximum joint strength, the ment is poured. These cause no problem if the
final cement joint should be free of bubbles. It bead is machined off. A small wire (not cop­
will usually be sufficient to allow the mixed per), or similar objects may be used to lift
cement to stand for 10 minutes before ce­ some bubbles out of the joint; however, the
menting to allow bubbles to rise to the surface. cement joint should be disturbed as little as
(See figure 3-20.) possible.

(5) Polymerizable cements shrink as the

cement hardens. Therefore, the freshly poured
cement bead should be left above the surfaces
being cemented to compensate for the shrink­
age. If it is necessary for appearances, the
bead may be machined off after the cement has
set.

3-24. REPAIR OF PLASTICS. Replace,

rather than repair extensively damaged trans­
parent plastic, whenever possible, since even a
carefully patched part is not the equal of a new
section, either optically or structurally. At the
FIGURE 3-20. Applying pressure to acrylic plastics. first sign of crack development, drill a small
hole with a # 30 or a 1/8-inch drill at the ex­
(d) The gap joint technique can only treme ends of the cracks as shown in fig­
be used with colorless PLEXIGLAS acrylic or ure 3-21. This serves to localize the cracks
in cases in which joints will be hidden. If in­ and to prevent further splitting by distributing
conspicuous joints in colored PLEXIGLAS the strain over a large area. If the cracks are
acrylic are needed, the parts must be fitted small, stopping them with drilled holes will
closely, using closed V groove, butt, or arc usually suffice until replacement or more per­
joints. manent repairs can be made. The following
repairs are permissible; however, they are not
(3) Cement forms or dams may be made to be located in the pilot’s line of vision during
with masking tape as long as the adhesive sur­ landing or normal flight.
face does not contact the cement. This

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AC 43.13-1B 9/8/98

FIGURE 3-21. Stop-drilling cracks.

a. Surface Patch. If a surface patch is to

be installed, trim away the damaged area and
round all corners. Cut a piece of plastic of suf­
ficient size to cover the damaged area and ex­
tend at least 3/4 inch on each side of the crack
or hole. Bevel the edges as shown in fig­
ure 3-22. If the section to be repaired is
curved, shape the patch to the same contour by
heating it in an oil bath at a temperature of
248 to 302 °F, or it may be heated on a
hot-plate until soft. Boiling water should not
be used for heating. Coat the patch evenly
with plastic solvent adhesive and immediately
place it over the hole. Maintain a uniform
pressure of 5 to 10 psi on the patch for a
minimum of 3 hours. Allow the patch to dry
24 to 36 hours before sanding or polishing.

b. Plug Patch. When using inserted

patches to repair holes in plastic structures,
trim the holes to a perfect circle or oval and
bevel the edges slightly. Make the patch
slightly thicker than the material being FIGURE 3-22. Surface patches.

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9/8/98 AC 43.13-1B

repaired and similarly bevel its edges. Install a. Clean the plastic by washing it with
patches in accordance with figure 3-23. Heat plenty of water and mild soap, using a clean,
the plug until soft and press it into the hole soft, grit-free cloth, sponge, or bare hands. Do
without cement and allow to cool to make a not use gasoline, alcohol, benzene, acetone,
perfect fit. Remove the plug, coat the edges carbon tetrachloride, fire extinguisher or deic­
with adhesive, and then reinsert in the hole. ing fluids, lacquer thinners, or window clean­
Maintain a firm light pressure until the cement ing sprays. These will soften the plastic and
has set. Sand or file the edges level with the cause crazing.
surface, then buff and polish.
b. Plastics should not be rubbed with a
dry cloth since this is likely to cause scratches,
and also to build up an electrostatic charge that
attracts dust particles to the surface. If after
removing dirt and grease, no great amount of
scratching is visible, finish the plastic with a
good grade of commercial wax. Apply the
wax in a thin even coat and bring to a high
polish by rubbing lightly with a soft cloth.

c. Do not attempt hand polishing or

buffing until the surface is clean. A soft,
open-type cotton or flannel buffing wheel is
suggested. Minor scratches may be removed
by vigorously rubbing the affected area by
hand, using a soft clean cloth dampened with a
mixture of turpentine and chalk, or by applying
automobile cleanser with a damp cloth. Re­
move the cleaner and polish with a soft, dry
cloth. Acrylic and cellulose acetate plastics
are thermoplastic. Friction created by buffing
or polishing too long in one spot can generate
sufficient heat to soften the surface. This con­
FIGURE 3-23. Plug patch repair. dition will produce visual distortion and
should be avoided.
3-25. CLEANING AND POLISHING
TRANSPARENT PLASTIC. Plastics have 3-26. REPLACEMENT PANELS. Use
many advantages over glass for aircraft use, material equivalent to that originally used by
but they lack the surface hardness of glass and the manufacturer of the aircraft for replace­
care must be exercised while servicing the air­ ment panels. There are many types of trans­
craft to avoid scratching or otherwise damag­ parent plastics on the market. Their properties
ing the surface. vary greatly, particularly in regard to expan­
sion characteristics, brittleness under low

Par 3-24 Page 3-21

AC 43.13-1B 9/8/98

temperatures, resistance to discoloration when c. In bolted installations, use spacers,

exposed to sunlight, surface checking, etc. In­ collars, shoulders, or stop-nuts to prevent
formation on these properties is in tightening the bolt excessively. Whenever
MIL-HDBK-17A, Plastics for Flight Vehicles, such devices are used by the aircraft manufac­
Part IITransparent Glazing Materials, avail­ turer, retain them in the replacement installa­
able from the Government Printing Office tion. It is important that the original number
(GPO). These properties are considered by of bolts, complete with washers, spacers, etc.,
aircraft manufacturers in selecting materials to be used. When rivets are used, provide ade­
be used in their designs and the use of substi­ quate spacers or other satisfactory means to
tutes having different characteristics may result prevent excessive tightening of the frame to
in subsequent difficulties. the plastic.

3-27. INSTALLATION PROCEDURES. d. Mount plastic panels between rubber,

When installing a replacement panel, use the cork, or other gasket material to make the in­
same mounting method employed by the stallation waterproof, to reduce vibration, and
manufacturer of the aircraft. While the actual to help to distribute compressive stresses on
installation will vary from one type of aircraft the plastic.
to another, consider the following major prin­
ciples when installing any replacement panel. e. Plastics expand and contract consid­
erably more than the metal channels in which
a. Never force a plastic panel out of they are mounted. Mount windshield panels to
shape to make it fit a frame. If a replacement a sufficient depth in the channel to prevent it
panel does not fit easily into the mounting, from falling out when the panel contracts at
obtain a new replacement or heat the whole low temperatures or deforms under load.
panel and reform. When possible, cut and fit a When the manufacturer’s original design per­
new panel at ordinary room temperature. mits, mount panels to a minimum depth of
1-1/8 inch, and with a clearance of 1/8 inch
b. In clamping or bolting plastic panels between the plastic and bottom of the channel.
into their mountings, do not place the plastic
under excessive compressive stress. It is easy f. In installations involving bolts or riv-
to develop more than 1,000 psi on the plastic ets, make the holes through the plastic over­
by over-torquing a nut and bolt. Tighten each size by 1/8-inch diameter and center so that the
nut to a firm fit, then back the nut off one full plastic will not bind or crack at the edge of the
turn (until they are snug and can still be rotated holes. The use of slotted holes is also recom­
with the fingers). mended.

3-39. [RESERVED.]
3-28.

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9/8/98 AC 43.13-1B

SECTION 4. WINDSHIELDS, ENCLOSURES, AND WINDOWS

3-40. GENERAL. These repairs are appli­ polymerizable cement such as PS-30 or
cable to plastic windshields, enclosures, and Weld-On 40, and allow capillary action to fill
windows in nonpressurized airplanes. For the crack completely. Soak the end of a
pressurized airplanes, replace or repair plastic 1/8-inch acrylic rod in cement to form a cush­
elements in accordance with the manufac­ ion and insert it in the stop-drilled hole. Allow
turer’s recommendation. When windshields the repair to dry for about 30 minutes, and then
and side windows made of acrylic plastics are trim the rod off flush with the sheet.
damaged, they are usually replaced unless the
damage is minor and a repair would not be in d. Polishing and Finishing. Scratches
the line of vision. Repairs usually require a and repair marks, within certain limitations,
great deal of labor. Replacement parts are can be removed from acrylic plastic. No
readily available, so replacement is normally sanding that could adversely affect the plas­
more economical than repair. tic’s optical properties and distort the pilot’s
vision should be done on any portion of a
a. Minor Repairs. There are times, how­ windshield.
ever, when a windshield may be cracked and
safety is not impaired. In that case, repairs can (1) If there are scratches or repair marks
be made by stop-drilling the ends of the crack in an area that can be sanded, they may be re­
with a # 30 drill (1/8 inch) to prevent the con­ moved by first sanding the area. Use 320- or
centration of stresses causing the crack to con­ 400-grit abrasive paper that is wrapped around
tinue. Drill a series of number 40 holes a a felt or rubber pad.
half-inch from the edge of the crack about a
half-inch apart, and lace through these holes (2) Use circular rubbing motions, light
with brass safety wire (see figure 3-24) and pressure, and a mild liquid soap solution as a
seal with clear silicone to waterproof. lubricant. After the sanding is complete, rinse
the surface thoroughly with running water.
b. Temporary Repairs. One way to Then, using a 500-grit paper, continue to sand
make a temporary repair is to stop-drill the lightly. Keep moving to higher grit paper and
ends of the crack, and then drill number sand and rinse until all of the sanding or repair
27 holes every inch or so in the crack. Use marks have been removed.
AN515-6 screws and AN365-632 nuts with
AN960-6 washers on both sides of the plastic. (3) After using the finest abrasive pa­
This will hold the crack together and prevent per, use rubbing compound and buff in a cir­
further breakage until the windshield can be cular motion to remove all traces of the sand­
properly repaired or replaced. (See fig­ ing.
ure 3-24.)
e. Cleaning. Acrylic windshields and
c. Permanent Repairs. Windshields or windows may be cleaned by washing them
side windows with small cracks that affect with mild soap and running water. Rub the
only the appearance rather than the airworthi­ surface with your bare hands in a stream of
ness of a sheet, may be repaired by first water. Follow with the same procedure but
stop-drilling the ends of the crack with a with soap and water. After the soap and dirt
# 30 or a 1/8-inch drill. Then use a hypoder­ have been flushed away, dry the surface with a
mic syringe and needle to fill the crack with soft, clean cloth or tissue and polish it with a

Par 3-40 Page 3-23

AC 43.13-1B 9/8/98

FIGURE 3-24. Temporary repairs to cracked windshields or windows.

windshield cleaner especially approved for use cover over the windshield. In many cases, this
on aircraft transparent plastics. These cleaners has done more harm than good. This cover
may be purchased through aircraft supply may absorb moisture from the air and give off
houses. harmful vapors, and if it touches the surface of
the plastic it can cause crazing or minute
f. Waxing. A thin coating of wax will fill cracks to form in the windshield. Another
any minute scratches that may be present and hazard in using such a cover is that sand can
will cause rain to form droplets that are easily blow up under the cover and scratch the plas­
blown away by the wind. tic.

3-41. PROTECTION. Acrylic windshields 3-42. WINDSHIELD INSTALLATION.

are often called “lifetime” windshields, to dis­ Aircraft windshields may be purchased either
tinguish them from those made of the much from the original aircraft manufacturer or from
shorter-lived acetate material. However, even any of several FAA-PMA sources. These
acrylic must be protected from the ravages of windshields are formed to the exact shape re­
the elements. quired, but are slightly larger than necessary so
they may be trimmed to the exact size.
a. When an aircraft is parked in direct
sunlight, the windshield will absorb heat and a. After removing the damaged wind-
will actually become hotter than either the in­ shield, clean all of the sealer from the grooves
side of the aircraft or the outside air. The sun and cut the new windshield to fit. New wind­
will cause the inside of a closed aircraft to be­ shields are covered with either protective paper
come extremely hot, and this heat is also ab­ or film to prevent damage during handling or
sorbed by the plastic windshield. installation. Carefully peel back just enough
of this covering to make the installation. The
b. To protect against this damage, it is windshield must fit in its channels with about
wise to keep the aircraft in a hangar. If this is 1/8- to 1/4-inch clearance to allow for expan­
not possible, some type of shade should be sion and contraction. If any holes are drilled in
provided to keep the sun from coming in direct the plastic for screws, they should be about
contact with the windshield. Some aircraft 1/8 inch oversize.
owners use a close-fitting, opaque, reflective

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9/8/98 AC 43.13-1B

b. Place the sealing tape around the c. Do not remove the protective paper or
edges of the windshield and install the wind­ film until the windshield is installed and all of
shield in its frame. Screws that go through the the securing screws are in place.
windshield should be tightened down snug and
then backed out a full turn, so the plastic can 3-47. [RESERVED.]
3-43.
shift as it expands and contracts.

Par 3-42 Page 3-25 (and 3-26)