Sewing Needle

SEWING NEEDLES
SEWING NEEDLES
Functions of the needle

• To produce hole in the material
• To carry the needle thread through the material

and there form a loop
• To pass the needle thread through the loop

PARTS OF THE NEEDLE
• BUTT
• SHANK
• SHOULDER
• LONG GROOVE
• SHORT GROOVE
• EYE
• NEEDLE POINT
• SCARF
• BLADE
1. Butt
The starting part of bottom edge of needle. Helps for easily attaching of
needle with the needle bar or clamp
2. Shank
The bottom thicker part of the needle which is tied in the needle clamp
or the needle set screw. It may be cylindrical or flat in size. It supports
the needle as a whole by providing additional strength
3. Shoulder
The intermediate section between the shank and the blade of needle.
When the needle penetrate through the fabric to reach its lower
position, then the shoulder also penetrates through the fabric. As a
result it reduces the friction between needle & fabrics by producing a
wider hole on fabric.
4. Blade
The needle portion extends from the shank to the eye. This is subjected
to the greatest amount of friction and hence heat when it passes through
the material. Blade is gradually tapered to tip.
5. Long groove(s)
It is a long and thin groove, presents in one side of the needle
blade . During up and down of needle through sewing, the sewing
thread take place in this groove and reduce the frictions between
fabric, needle and thread. It provides a protective channel and
reduce possibility of damaging thread due to frictions.
6. Short groove
It is formed on the other side of long groove, towards the shuttle,
hook, or looper and it assists in throwing the loop of needle thread
7. Eye
The eye of the needle is present in the bottom end of the blade.
Needle thread allowed through this eye is taken to the bottom
area. It helps to create loop
8. Scarf (Clearance)
It is a curved slot, a clearance cut in the needle blade just above
the eye to permit a closer setting of the shuttle, hook, or looper to
the needle. As a result, it is easy to catch the needle loop by the
looper hook.
9. Point
It is the part from needle eye to the tip. The point of the needle
is shaped to provide the most suitable penetration of the
material being sewn according to its nature and the desired
stitch effect
NEEDLE POINTS
Spear point - Most machine Ball point - These have a Wedge point - These are
needles will look similar but rounded tip and are used for designed to cut a hole as they
they will differ in their tips: knitted fabrics.The rounded penetrate the fabric.They are
Set/Spear point - These are end allows the needle to used for machining leather
used for most woven fabrics. separate the yarns without and plastic materials.
cutting them, which reduces
the chance of the fabric
laddering.
NEEDLE POINTS
Slim Set Point also referred to as acute
round point (SPI)
 This point is used for dense woven fabrics as

it causes less damage, helps set a straighter
stitch and minimizes seam pucker.
 Commonly used for microfibre and densely

woven fabrics, coated materials,
topstitching of collars and cuffs in shirts.
NEEDLE POINTS
 Set Cloth Point also referred to as normal

round point (R)
 This point is used for normal fabrics with
standard seams as it pushes the yarn to the
side.
NEEDLE POINTS
Light Ball Point (SES)

This point is used for sewing lightweight
knitted fabric. It is sometimes used for
fine denim and light, densely woven
material to avoid damaging the material.
NEEDLE POINTS
Medium Ball Point (SUK)
This point is used for sewing medium weight
knitted fabric. It is also used for medium to coarse
denims, particularly sand-washed and
stonewashed grades
NEEDLE POINTS
Heavy Ball Point (SKF)

• This point is used for coarse knitwear and
for sewing dense woven elastic (it won’t
push the elastic yarn through).
NEEDLE POINTS
Special ball point (SKL)
Used for medium to course elastic
materials with covered elastomeric
threads and very coarse knitwear.
NEEDLE POINTS
UNIVERSAL NEEDLE
Uses: Safest needle choice for most fabrics.
Configuration: Has slightly rounded point and

elongated scarf to enable almost foolproof meeting of
needle and bobbin hook.
BALLPOINT & STRETCH NEEDLES
Uses: Ballpoint needle for heavier, looser sweater

knits; stretch needle for highly elastic fabrics, like
Spandex, or Lycra.
Configuration: Both have rounded points that
penetrate between fabric threads rather than pierce
them. (Stretch-needle point is slightly less rounded than
ballpoint.)
LEATHER NEEDLE
Uses: Excellent for sewing natural leather.
Configuration: Has slight cutting point

(almost like an arrowhead).
DENIM (JEANS) NEEDLE
Uses: For heavyweight denim, duck, canvas,

upholstery fabrics, artificial leather, and vinyl.
Configuration: Has deeper scarf, acute point, and

modified shaft to sew without pushing fabric down into
needle-plate hole. Goes through fabric and meets
bobbin hook better on dense woven fabrics.
HANDICAP/SELF THREADING NEEDLE
Uses: Enables easier threading for sewers with vision

problems.
Configuration: Universal needle with slip-in

threading slot at the eye.
BLINDSTITCH NEEDLE
 It is curve in shape in order to successively penetrate
partially into the fabric and then into the hem edge.
 It is minimally shown on right side of the garment.
 Needle size:-
LWx6T
(11-18)
TWIN (DOUBLE) NEEDLE
Uses: Topstitching, pin tucking, and decorative

stitching.
Configuration: Two needles on single shaft produce

two rows of stitches. Measurement between needles
ranges from 1.6mm to 6mm, and needles come with
universal, stretch, embroidery, denim, and Metallica
points.
TRIPLE NEEDLE
Uses: Same uses as for double needle.
Configuration: Cross bar on single shaft connects three

needles to sew three stitching rows. Comes with universal
point in 2.5mm and 3mm widths.
SPRING NEEDLE
Uses: Free-motion stitching with dropped feed dogs.
Configuration: Has wire spring above point to prevent

fabrics from riding up onto needle, eliminating need for
presser foot.
NEEDLE THREAD RELATIONSHIP
Selection of correct needle size is critical to the success of a
quality sewn seam.
Some important factors to consider are:
 The material type and construction of garment
 The material thickness to be sewn
 The machine type used
The sewing thread selected for the garment should move
freely through the eye of the selected needle to ensure
smooth passage during sewing.
The general guideline is that the thread should fill 70% of the
eye of the needle.
How to test needle to thread size
To confirm that the correct size thread needle combination is used
the following test can be carried out:
 Take half a metre of the thread being used on the machine and
thread it through the eye of a loose needle
 Hold the thread vertically with the needle at the top
 If the needle is too big, it will drop to the bottom of the thread
 If the needle is too small, it will stick at the top of the thread
 If the needle is the right size, it will slowly spiral to the bottom
of the thread
NEEDLE COATINGS
NEEDLE COATINGS
Chrome:
 This is the most common coating used and protects the needle from
corrosion.
A hard chrome coating gives the sewing machine needle a high
abrasion resistance. These needles can be used in all types of
sewing machines in a wide range of end uses
Hardened steel / Nickel:
 These needles can prevent rusting and protect the needle from
friction during sewing.
However, they deteriorate when used in high friction areas (thick
dense fabric) and at high machine speeds. For this reason they are
best suited only for basic stitching operations
Titanium Nitrate:
 Is used to give a hard and smooth surface to the needle. These
needles often have a gold colour finish.
Titanium coating resists adhesives, improves needle wear and
penetration of coarse and densely woven fabrics.
It can also improve a sewing needles' expected lifetime
substantially compared to the other coatings.
 Others:
 There are various other needles finishes available with non stick /
anti adhesion coating designed to reduce adhesion of melted
synthetic fibres to the needle. The needle remains cleaner longer
and skipped stitches and thread breakage are minimised
 Ceramic coating:
 This is for very specialised areas. It reduces heat by 20-25% and
can prevent static electricity before it occurs

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SEWING NEEDLES

Functions of the needle

• To carry the needle thread through the material

• To pass the needle thread through the loop

 This point is used for dense woven fabrics as

 Commonly used for microfibre and densely

 Set Cloth Point also referred to as normal

Light Ball Point (SES)

Heavy Ball Point (SKF)

Uses: Safest needle choice for most fabrics.

Configuration: Has slightly rounded point and

Uses: Ballpoint needle for heavier, looser sweater

Uses: Excellent for sewing natural leather.

Configuration: Has slight cutting point

Uses: For heavyweight denim, duck, canvas,

Configuration: Has deeper scarf, acute point, and

Uses: Enables easier threading for sewers with vision

Configuration: Universal needle with slip-in

Uses: Topstitching, pin tucking, and decorative

Configuration: Two needles on single shaft produce

Uses: Same uses as for double needle.

Configuration: Cross bar on single shaft connects three

Uses: Free-motion stitching with dropped feed dogs.

Configuration: Has wire spring above point to prevent

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