Here, guests will gather around cocktail tables, each player given their own boxy video game controller with large plastic arcade buttons.

It has begun road-testing, and a handful of leaked photos show a large boxy machine that is both similar to the concept – and very different.

“I love the Upper East Side feeling of the slightly boxy shape of it,” says Lawson.

On the walls of Gold Apollo's office are posters of the company’s products – a montage of small boxy plastic devices with little grey LCD screens.

With its boxy body, chrome grille, round headlights and removable or soft top, it is practical, charming and not too flashy.