weaving

Preparatory Section
a.
i.

Warping

Machine # 1

1. Brand schlafhorst (Germany)

2. Creel
Type- Sliding
Arrangement- V-shape
Stop motion- Electrical
Total no.of packages that can be accommodated = 94 X 2 X 6 = 1128 (6
Packages/stand)
Creel capacity = 45 X 2 X 6 = 540
Reserve capacity = 588
3. Head Stock
Drum diameter = 0.6032 m ; Drum Length = 1.89 m
Adjustable V-reed dent = 575
Type of winding motor- Servo Motor
Maximum winding rate = 1200 m/min
Maximum beam R.P.M. = = 955
(Empty beam diameter = 0.4 m)
Drum pressure = 550 daN (for below 16S); 500 daN (for 16S)
Space Occupied= 10.45m X 20.85 m

i. Machine # 2
1. Brand BENNINGER (Switzerland) Model- CH-9240 UZIL (2004)
2. Creel
Type- Sliding
Arrangement- V-shape
Stop motion- Electrical

Total # of packages that can be accommodated

= 108 X 2 X 5 = 1128 (5 Packages/stand)
o
Creel capacity = 52 X 2 X 5 = 520
o
Reserve capacity = 550
3. Head stock
Drum diameter = 0.5032 m ; Drum Length = 1.79 m
Adjustable V-reed dent = 550
Type of winding motor- Servo Motor
Maximum winding rate = 1200 m/min
Maximum beam R.P.M. = = 955 (Empty beam diameter = 0.4 m)
Drum pressure = 550 daN (for below 16S); 500 daN (for 16S)

i. Features of warping machine

o
o

Better quality warp stop motion helps to wind yarn onto beam with minimum fault
level.
The servo motor in the head stock automatically adjust the beam R.P.M. with
increasing the diameter to keep the winding rate constant according to the value set
in the control panel.

ii. Warp Beam

Empty beam diameter = 42 cm
Beam Flange diameter = 128 cm
Beam barrel length = 180 cm
Metal beam barrel is covered with fabric to reduce friction with yarn
Maximum length of warp that was wound onto a warp beam = 32000m (for16 s or
12s) & 21500m (for7S)

i. Raw materials
Brand

Yarn Count

Weight/pack

beximco
(Bangladesh)

7S OE
9S OE
12S OE/ 16S OE
7
S
7 OE
9 S OE

50 Kg
50 Kg
50 Kg

# of
package/pack
18 Cheese
18 Cheese
24 Cheese

49.5 Kg
49.5 Kg

9 Cone
9 Cone

Sinha(Bangladesh)
delta (Bangladesh)

Jamuna
(Bangladesh)

Brand
Sinha
Jamuna
Square
Techno

9 S OE

Yarn Count
7S OE
OE [7 S, 9 S, 10 S]
16S Slub
7S OE

50 Kg

18 Cone

Origin
Bangladesh
Bangladesh
Bangladesh
Pakistan

a. DYEING & SIZING

i. Machine-1:
1.
2.

3.

Brand- master(italy)
SpecificationNo. of Dye bath-4
Intermediate creel- 1
Space occupied- 12m X 15.4 m (Creel)
Warp wise stripe in the fabric can be produced by using the intermediate creel.
According to the design, cone with different color of yarn is placed to the
intermediate creel and passed through the sizing bath with the warp sheet that has
dyed in the dye bath of the machine. Thus the warp wise stripe in the fabric can be
produced.
4. For producing stripe there is a creel available in between sizing bath and after
dyeing dryer cylinder.
The available creel capacity = 22 X 2X 8 = 352

Process flow chartii. Shades that are produced by Bengal Denim

1. Regular (Indigo Blue)
2. Blue-Black (Topping Process)
3. Black

Dyeing Flow chart for Regular shade (Blue)

ng Flow chart for 4 gm/liter shade (Dark Indigo)- [Bottoming Process]

ow chart for Blue-Black shade [Topping Process]-

ng Flow chart for Black shade-

Pre-wetting Process
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.

Washing & preparing the yarn for Dye Absorption is pre-wetting process
1.
RecipeAlkali [Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH)] = 5 gm/L
Tencide = 4 gm/L
Water = 1800 Ltr (
Temperature = 70c
Bath pH = 11-12
Rinsing Ratio = 1.6 Ltr/Kg

Water Wash Process

Only water is used in the bath

Bath capacity- 700
Temperature = Room Temperature [for Blue-Black 50c]

Dyeing with vat (indigo) dye

1. Shade
For Regular & 4 gm/L always 2% shade of vat dye is used
For Blue-Black always 1.5% shade of vat dye is used

2. Recipea. DyeN0.of dye Yarn count (Ne)

bath
6
4
6
4
b.
c.
d.
e.
f.
g.

7s,12s
7s, 9s,
16s
16s

Shade (%)

Amount of Indigo (gm/L)

2
2
2
2

2.7
4.1
1.9
2.8

Water (per bath) = 450 Ltr

Reducing agent [Na2S2O4 (Hydrose)] = 1.5 gm/L
Temperature = Room Temperature
Bath pH = 11.8-12
Caustic soda= Amount to maintain pH 11.8-12
Squeezing Pressure in dye baths is 6 bar

Pre-dyeing process

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.

RecipeAlkali [Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH)] = 5 gm/L

Tencide = 4 gm/L
Dye (Sulphur Black) = 1.5 gm/L
Reducing agent (Glucose) = 10 gm/L
Water = 1650 ltr Temperature = 80c
pH = 11-12

Dyeing with Sulphur (Black) dye

Shade
For Blue-Black always 1.7% shade of sulphur dye is used
For Black always 3.2% shade of sulphur dye is used
RecipeDye
For 1.7% shade 20 gm/L dye
For 3.2% shade 40 gm/L
Water = 515 Ltr

o Temperature = 80c
o pH = 12.5

Mercerization Process
Alkali [Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH)] = 120 gm/L [400 Ltr of NaOH solution]
Tencide = 4 gm/L
Water = 1250 Ltr (capacity 1850 Ltr : machine#1)
Temperature = Room Temperature
pH = 12+

1. Important section of Denim Line

Headstock

Unit at which the weavers bean is mounted is called headstock.

Headstock contains servo motor which reduces the beam R.P.M. to

keep the winding rate constant according the value set in the control panel.
Beam creel section
1. Type- Sliding creel
2. Arrangement- Two creels are placed parallel to each others.
3. Creel capacity- 12 warp beams can be placed in each creel.
4. Electronic motor is available to slide the creel as well as mount the beams.
5. During doffing new set of warp beam, linking with previous set of warp is done by
using a thermoplastic paper in between 2 warp sheets at a pressure of 6 bar &
220c temp.
Dye Range
o There are 2 chambers in every dye bath. Nitrogen supply is available in one of
these two chambers to remove oxygen that may react with hydrose and
produce NaHSO3.
o Thus alkalinity of the bath will also increase. As a result the reducing power
of the hydrose will be reduced, which results in the precipitation of leuco
compound in the bath.
o Squeezing pressure in all dye baths is kept 5.5 bar and for the last dye bath it is 6.
While passing the linked warp sheets through the bath the pressure is reduced to
around 2 bar.
Sizing unit:

1.

Sizing unit contains two sets of squeeze roller which controls the stretch % of
the yarn by varying speed of feed and delivery squeeze roller. The top squeeze
roller is rubber coated and the bottom roller is made of stainless steel. The
pressure of the squeeze roller is set depending on the pick-up % required.

Accumulators
o Each set of accumulators can accumulate certain amount of Warp yarn to
reduce wastage of warp yarn as it is the continuous process.
o There are three set of accumulators in the machine
o Accumulator #1- After the creel
o Accumulator #2- After the dyeing unit
o Accumulator #3- Before the leasing unit
Drying unit
Before the size bath (8 cylinders)
After the size bath (12 cylinders)

Tanks available with dyeing machine

o Preparation Tank (K-905): Liquid color (Both sulphur black & vat (indigo) is
prepared in this tank. After using it for one dye the tank is cleaned properly.
Preparation recipes are as followsMaterial
Amount for Vat
Amount
(Indigo)
forSulphur Black
Dye
90 Kg (90gm/L)
120 gm/L
Water

600Ltr

834 Ltr

Caustic Soda

96 Ltr

40 gm/L

Reducing Agent

Similar amount of
Indigo(Hydrose)

20 gm/L (Glucose)

primasol(antifoaming
)

4 gm/L

1 gm/L

o Storage tank [K-915(for Indigo); K-920 (for Black): After preparation the dye
liquor is pumped to the storage tank from the preparation tank. Indigo dye liquor is
moved into the ultrasonic reactor. In this reactor the macromolecules of Indigo are
broken & these broken molecules are stored into ultrasonic tube (storage tube).
Then by indigo dosing pump it is pumped to mixing tank.
o Mixing tank [D-450(for Indigo); D-455(Black)]: All tanks are connected to
mixing tank. Gericke (funnel like vessel) delivers reducing agent (Hydrose) at a
constant rate into the mixing tank. Reducing agent & more caustic soda is mixed in
this tank to control pH. All dye baths are connected to mixing tanks. Continuously
liquor is circulated between dye baths and mixing tanks.

i. Lab Instruments
1.
o
1.
o
o
2.
1.
o
o
o
o
o

UseDetermination of sodium Hydro sulphite

Determination of Indigo
Determination of alkali (NaOH) in dye bath
Determination of alkali (NaOH) in pre-wetting (mercerizing) bath
The 3 electrodes areReference electrode- measure pH
Platinum Electrode
Glass electrode
Titrant for NaOH: c(HCL) 0.1 mol/L
Titrant for hydrosulphite and leuco indigo: K3Fe(CN)6 c= 0.1 mol/L
Nitrogen from pressuring flask.

ii. Sizing
Ingredients used in the size cooking tank areStarch (appale)
Emsize (Below 80% solidity)
CMS -60 (Above 90% solidity) [Highly modified starch]
E20 (Below 90% solidity)
Binder-Texsize (25%-30% solidity) [Acrylic binder]
Softening agent -Wax
1. Capacity of cooking tank- 500 Ltr
2. Size paste waste- 140 Ltr
3. Cooking Temperature- 90-96c
4. Cooking time- 25-60 min
5. Pick-up- 6-12% (Higher pickup% for finer count so that lower squeezing pressure)
6. Cylinder temperature- 100-120c
7. Squeezing pressure- (by top roller)
8. Delivery squeeze pressure- 20-25 KN
5. Lowest 12-17 KN
6. Highest- 15-20 KN
7. At 20 m/min speed squeezing pressure- 17 KN
9. Feed squeeze pressure- 8-15 KN
10. Stretch- 1.5-2.5%
11. Refracto reading- 6% - 14%
12. Viscosity- 12-30sec
13. Sizing Temperature- 85-94c

14. 20% moisture in the yarn is required after sizing

15. Pressure of pressure roller on weavers beam
5. For 7S , 2700 N
6. For 12S, 2400-2500 N

Example of size chemicals consumptionWarp count

Water
(Ltr)

Emsize E5
(Kg)

Texsize
(Kg)

Wax
(Kg)

9 M Slub
7 OE
9 Rsl+9 OE
(4:8)
7+12 (4:8)
7+9+12 (4:2:6)

510
510
510

50/25
50
37.5

12/8
14
14

3/3
3
3

510
510

50
50

10
15

3
3

CMS-60 Cooking
(Kg)
time
(min)
2/12.5
45
2
45
25
45
2
2

45
45

Weaving section:
Machine type- Projectile (sulzer textile model p7300pH)
o

Section details
No. of weaving machines = 25
Machine Brand: Sulzer Ruti
Model: P-7200
Machine width: B-360
Country of origin: Switzerland
Machine R.P.M. 450 (maximum); 350-400 (generally used)

Number of Projectile in a cycle- 18

Reed width = 68X2
Selvedge type-Tuck-in
Heald frame capacity- 10
Available reed- 33S, 44S, 47S Stockport
Motions:
Primary motionsi. Shedding mechanism- Cam shedding
ii. Picking mechanism- Projectile picking
iii. Beat up mechanism- Cam beat-up
Secondary motionsTake-up mechanism- Mechanical (7 wheel)
Let off mechanism- electrical
Tertiary motionsTemple motion

o Production Calculation for Projectile loom

For exampleAccording to the control panel displayP.P.I. = 42
No. of picks inserted in B shift- 2: 028826
No. of picks inserted in A shift- 1: 028716
In the display 1 unit of pick
Then the production of B shift (8 hr.)=
183 m
Benefits of using Projectile loom
Better fabric quality
Low machine parts consumption
Weft breakage in minimum compared to the air-jet loom

Machine type- Rapier

Section details
No. of weaving machines: 40
Machine Brand: kingtex
Model: P401s
Country of origin: italy
Machine R.P.M. 350
Guide available for rapier passage
Heald frame capacity- 12

o Motions
Primary motionsShedding mechanism - Electronic Dobby
Picking mechanism Rapier Picking
Beat up mechanism Cam beat-up
Secondary motionsTake-up motion- Electronic)
Let off motion- Electronic
Tertiary motionsTemple motion
Main motor drivesShedding
Rapier
Sley

Different types of Denim fabrics produced by bengal Denims

Style #
Specification
Color
Total GSM GREY
(Grey)
ends
WIDTH
6500-01
16X16
4GPL
220.5
64.7
71X44
8000BB100
16X(12SL+12OE)
BB
271.4
65
71X51
8000BB130 9,12,16X(16L40)
BB
4596 271.4 61.4 TI
71X41
1000-01
10X10
REG
4812 339.3
71X38

Commercial class of Denim fabric

Commercial class

Description

Example

Ring denim

Ring yarn warp

16X16
71X44

Regular/plain
denim

Both warp & weft yarn are

either ring/OE but no slub

7,9,12X7
66X39

Slub denim

Warp yarn slub, weft yarn

ring/OE

9SLX9
66X48

Cross slub/ Cross

hatch denim

Both warp & weft yarn slub

9SLX9SL
66X36

Chambray denim

1 up 1 down plain weave

Stretch denim

Spandex on weft

7, 9SL, 12S X 16L40

71X 41

Weft yarn
5.
6.
7.

a. Generally used counts(6S,7S, 8S, 9S, 10S, 12S, 14S, 16S, 20S, 30S ) OE
12 OE & Textured polyester
16L40 (40 Den Lycra Coated with 16S Cotton)

6.1. Process Flowchart

Machine
6.1.1. Machine details
o
Brand- Rimer (Italy)
o
Model- FLEXA-D
o
Singeing unit
Brand- Senge (Germany)
Model-U97/1
o
Padder pressure (Air Pressure)-

o
o
o
o

7000 Kg (for stretch denim)

2000 Kg (except stretch denim)
Sanforizing unit manufacturer- yanchang (china)
General output speed- 50 m/min.
Used chemical- Softener
Mixing tank contains 1200 Ltr of softener solution which requires 20 kg softener for 1200
Ltr.

6.2. Finishing stages6.2.1. Singeing is required for regular cotton & stretch denim finishing. Polyester in
weft fabric is not singed.
6.2.2. Application of softener in chemical box
6.2.3. After wash of the garments left hand twill skews in left hand side and for the
right hand twill it is in right hand direction. So this amount of skews is given
during finishing so that the twill line can not distort at garments stage. In
general for left hand twill skew setting in the machine is negative. For the
right hand twill it is positive & in case of low weight it is kept negative. For 2/1
twill 6-8 cm skew is required where for 3/1 twill it is 12-14 cm. For broken
twill, herringbone, cord, chambray, canvas fabrics skew is 0.

6.2.4. First set of dryers dry the fabric and the second set controls the moisture in the
fabric. It is a practice that the fabric is fed into the sanforizing unit with the
moisture% same to its oz/yd2. e.g., for 12.5 oz/yd2 , the moisture% is 12.5%.
From the rubber belt approximately 3% moisture is gained by the fabric. So
after drying from second dryer stack the moisture requirement percentage is
9.5%. The required amount is set in the control panel and necessary amount
of steam supply controls it. Dryer cylinder temperature range is 110c-160c.
6.2.5. From the rubber belt unit sanforizing unit starts. Fabric input speed is higher
than the delivery speed in this unit. Fabric shrinkage is controlled in this unit
thus it controls the finished P.P.I. requirement. Steam temperature inside the
drum is 140c. For normal fabric (03%) shrinkage is normal whereas for

o
o
o
o
o
o

stretch denim it is within 15%. So for stretch denim finish to reduce the
shrinkage % the fabric is finished twice.
6.2.6. Palmer is a large dia cylinder whose function is something like heat setting. To
fix the fabric width and skew this unit is used.
6.2.7. Cooling roller cools the fabric by using cold water inside it.
6.2.8. After finish fabric requirement for heavy fabricWidth- 62-63 inch
Shrinkage 13-14%
Skew- 13-14 cm
6.2.9. After finish fabric requirement for stretch fabric & other qualitiesWidth- 59-61 inch
Shrinkage 13-14%
Skew 6-9 cm
Style

Loom

1100-88
1050BB80
1200-80
1200-80
8000-01
1375-01
1375-01

M5
N1
D7
C3
B1
F2
F5

G.S.M. Record
Grey Pick
Finished
Pick
39
45
44
51
48
55
48
55
40
47
39
46
40
46

Finished
Width (")
61.8
61.7
62
62
62
62.5
63

G.S.M.
371
349
405
400
273
479
475

Section summary
o Inspection method- 4 point system
o Inspection machine brand: chee yank Ltd.Co (Taiwan)
o No. of machine- 5

INSPECTION DEFECTS & THEIR CODES

DEFECT
SLUB
COARSER WEFT
FLUFF YARN
COARSER WARP
Bad piecing
Slubby Weft
OILY WARP
OILY WEFT
Shade variation
Stains
Stop Mark
Selvedge to selvedge
shade variation
Slack end
]LOOSE WARP
TIGHT END
Size spot

CODE #
101
102
103
104
105
106
107
108
201
202
203
204
221
224
225
227

FAULT

YARN FAULT

DYEING DEFECT

SIZING FAULT

BROKEN PICK
THICK PLACE
DOUBLE PICK
TEMPLE MARK
FLOATING END
DOUBLE END
REED MARK
SMASH
WRONG DRAWN
MISSING PICK
STARTING MARK
SNARLS
KNOT
CREASES
HOLE
MACHINE STOP

301
302
305
307
309
311
314
315
317
322
323
325
326
403
405
408

WEAVING FAULT

FINISHING FAULT

Section & process summary

Machine brand- katla (India)
Model- E5x
Liquor capacity of the machine- 600 Ltr
To check after wash shrinkage of the garments only desizing of the fabric is
carried out.
o Blue-Black & Black samples require stone enzyme wash as if it is bleached the
color becomes white.
o A Hydro-extractor & a dryer are available to use after the process.
o
o
o
o

Wash recipe
o Style # 1050-BB-80
o Fabric quantity- 3 yards
Wash
Desizing

Chemical

Amount

2. Anti-stain

2. 90 gm

3. Water

3. 55 Ltr

2.
EnzymeWas
h
3.
4.

Enzyme
(bi-polish)
Acetic acid
Water

2. 140 gm

Time

Temperature
(c)

10 min

60

35 min

45

3. 45 gm
4. 40 Ltr

Research & Development

New sample development or buyers sample reproduction

Costing
o
o
o
o
o

Elements of costing of fabric

Total yarn cost/yard (warp cost/yard + weft cost/yard)
Chemical cost/yard
Overhead cost (cost of Gas, water, employee wages)
Utility cost & electricity cost of REB
Profit

UTILITY
Electrical Load total

Connecting Load of bengal Denims Ltd. (Approximate)

Unit/Machine
Load (KW)
No. of
Total load
machine
(KW)
Warping-1 & 2
35
2
60
Dyeing-1
190
1
180
Dyeing-2
120
1
120
Weaving machine (Air5.7
84
462
jet)
Weaving machine
8
20
140
(Projectile)
Weaving machine
6
36
180
(Rapier)
Finishing-1
70
1
80
Finishing-2
130
1
120
Inspection machine
3
11
33
Mercerizing machine
90
1
100
Stenter machine
70
1
80
Humidification plant-1
80
1
80
Humidification plant-2
80
1
80
Humidification plant-3
200
1
200
Chillar-1
35
1
35

Chillar-2
Chillar-3
Utility
Lighting
Compressor
Air dryer
TOTAL

35
70
100
200
160
20

1
1

35
70
100
200
800
20
3145 Kw

GENERATOR
o No. of generator- 5
o Brand name- GUASCOR (Spain)
o Gas Generator specification 15psi Gas input
Generator cooling system- water cooled
Carburetor (Air & Gas mixture)
Combustion chamber (spark ignition)
Fly wheel (liner motion is converted to rotary motion)
Alternator (AC to DC)
Capacity 520 kW (each)

BOILER
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o

No. of boiler- 2
Type- Fire tube (Locomotive)
Brand- Omnical (Germany)
Model- DDHI 10.0-10
Maximum heat capacity- 6.6 MW
Water content up to NW (net weight) 15.45 m3
Maximum steam output- 10 Ton/hr
Maximum working pressure gauge- 10 bar
Maximum temperature- 188C
Softening of water is required which is done by using cationic resin.

COMPRESSOR
o No. of compressor- 6 (for weaving section)

o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.

9.

Brand- Naina (Germany)

Model- ESD 301
No. of dryer- 2 only
Maximum working pressure- 7 bar
Compressor type- Screw type
Another compressor is available for dyeing machine.
Brand- Atlascopco (Belgium)
Model: GA 22
Maximum working pressure- 13 bar
Free air delivery-48 Ltr/sec
Air compression process
Ambient air
Air filter
Inlet valve
Screw
Oil separator
Output
Cooler
Capsule
Dryer (to remove moisture)

WORKSHOP
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o

Available machines & tools

Lathe machine (2 Nos.)
Grinding machine
Drill machine
Arc welding
Bid
Milling machine
Shaper
Gas welding

Waste Disposal

System

[Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP)

11.1. Treatment flowchart

o
o
o
o

At the treated water tankBOD (Biological Oxygen Demand) value is 300 mg/L where the theoretical required
value is 100.
COD (Chemical Oxygen Demand) value is 500 mg/L where the theoretical required
value is 400.
TDS (Total Dissolved Solute) value is 2100 mg/L where the theoretical required value
is 400.
TSS (Total Suspended Solids) value is 200-400 mg/L where the theoretical required
value is 200.
The sludge is removed to another tank. Finally the dry sludge is removed from the
industry by using truck. As it is very harmful it should be buried under soil.

COMMERCIAL
Order handling

After finalizing an order from marketing Commercial department send the PI

(Performa invoice) to the party.
PI includes ID & address of seller & buyer
Name of commodity & specification
Unit price ($/yd), quantity, total amount & FOB/C & F
Packing (e.g., standard export packing)
Loading port
Time of shipment
Mode of payment
Advising bank
Validity of PI (e.g., 14 days from the date of issue)
Partial shipment (allowed/not allowed)

 Remarks (e.g., Tolerance 5% more or less in weight for each color)

Payment (e.g., payment will be made by US$)
Signature of buyers & sellers
The PI is then sent to buyers bank & request for a LC
After opening the LC, buyers bank sends the LC to the advising bank (rupali bank
for Bengal Denim)
Then sellers bank sends a bank forwarding letter to SHASHA Denim.
After receiving the bank forwarding commercial department of bengal denim send
shipping document to the buyer. Shipping document includes Commercial invoice
Packing list
Undertaking & request for issuing export permit to BEPZA
Bill of exchange

After signing the shipping document by buyer, they send it to their bank & bank
endorses these documents.
In some case, if this process is not done by the buyer then after production Bengal
Denim may claim to their bank with the LC. Then bank claims to buyers bank &
buyers bank creates a forced loan against the buyer & pays the amount
to Bengaldenim.
After completion of delivery shipping documents along with some bank
documents is sent to the bank. The bank sends these documents to buyers bank
and they pay the amount.