Homemade Recipes Book
Homemade Recipes Book
Homemade Recipes Book
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Candles.................................................................................................................... 21
Beer Mug Candles ...................................................................................................................... 21
Floater Candles .......................................................................................................................... 21
Honeycomb Sheet Candle .......................................................................................................... 21
Ice Candles ................................................................................................................................. 22
Millefiori Candles ......................................................................................................................... 22
Water Candles ............................................................................................................................ 23
Whipped Wax Candle .................................................................................................................. 23
Creams .................................................................................................................... 52
Basic Hand & Body Cream ......................................................................................................... 52
Cucumber Cream ....................................................................................................................... 52
Gardener’s Hand Cream ............................................................................................................. 53
Gentle Face Cream and Base...................................................................................................... 53
Lavendar Cream ......................................................................................................................... 54
Rose Aloe Face Cream ................................................................................................................ 54
Skin Butter ................................................................................................................................. 55
Ultra Hand & Body Cream .......................................................................................................... 55
Whipped Creme.......................................................................................................................... 56
Ointments.............................................................................................................. 131
Calendula & Plantain Ointment ................................................................................................. 131
Darlene’s Ointment #1 ............................................................................................................. 131
PMS Oil Blend .......................................................................................................................... 132
1 part beeswax
1 part butter
1 part oil or oil blend
Instructions:
Melt wax and butter in a double boiler and stir in oils. Remove from heat and add fragrance and
colorant. This basic balm can be softened with more oil or hardened with more wax or butter. This
can be poured into lip balm containers or deodorant containers for use as lotion bars.
Belly Balm
Great for dry skin
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Melt butters and oil in a double boiler. Add essential oil or fragrance oil. Add mica if you are
coloring the balm. Pour into deodorant containers.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Melt illipe butter & jojoba together in a double boiler. Mix mica into 1 tablespoon of oil and then
add to the rest of the oils. Add the oils to the butter wax mixture. Add EO and whip until cool.
Spoon into containers and let solidify.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
In a double boiler melt ingredients. Cool slightly and add fragrance. I like the smell of cocoa butter,
so I use the least amount of fragrance oil. Pour into molds and let harden.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
You will need a fine sieve and a sterilized 20-ounce glass bottle with a tight-fitting stopper. 1)place
the peels and vodka in the bottle. cover tightly and let stand for 1 week. 2)press the mixture
through the fine sieve to extract all the liquid. 3)pour the liquid back into the resterilized bottle. Add
the essential oils, vinegar, and the water. Let stand for 2 weeks shaking often. Store in a cool, dark
place.
This aromatic oil balm is healing, soothing, or helps miitgate pain and stress for babies, safe for
newborns to prevent and heal nappy bottoms.
Ingredients:
Make Ahead: Botanical Infusion - 3 tbsp. Dried lavender flowers; 1 tbsp. dried calendula petals; 1
tbsp. dried rose petals; 1 tbsp. dried chamomile flowers to 1 cup grapeseed oil, Olive Oil, or Hemp
Seed Oil (or a blend of oils). Simmer the herbs in the oil for at least 4 hours.
Tip for faster infusion: In a clean coffe grinder blend herbs then add to oil, infuse for 1
hour over a double boiler to allow healing properties of herbs to be fully released to the
oil. If using whole herbs, infuse at low heat for at least 4 hours in double boiler.
Emulsifier:
5 tbsp. Beeswax melted in separate double boiler
After beeswax is melted slowly pour into bowl of emollients and herb infused oil, mix w/ electric
blender or hand whisker until mixture is thick and creamy. Quickly pour into 2oz and or 4 oz
sterlized jars, recipe yields 16oz. Label, if you plan to store balm for 3 months or more, refrigerate.
This recipe is good for babies bottoms, or any burns, cuts or scrapes. Balms (also called salves)
work best for healing burns, cuts, scrapes, diaper rash & skin.
Instructions:
Recipe submitted by Staci McCormick of McCormick Soap Company, this was tested on my son
who has extremely sensitive skin and used for over a year, he has had no problems from this
mixture and has never had diaper rash for over 2 days after using this recipe. We lived in Florida
when he was born and now live in the mountains of North Carolina, both of which have extremely
hot humid summers which tend to intensify prickly heat and diaper rash. Good Luck and God
Bless you and your babies.
Ingredients:
3 cups olive oil infused with 1 cup calendula petals & 1 cup lavender buds
1/2 oz tea tree oil
1/2 oz lavender eo
2 oz illipe butter
3 oz beeswax
Instructions:
Infuse oil with calendula & lavender. Strain. Add butter & beeswax and heat to 150. Cool slightly,
then add eo’s and pour. Makes 10-3 oz containers.
This balm sinks in quickly, about 5 minutes, and has a wonderful scent from the infused herbs.
Lightly applied, it is a great all-over balm. It can be applied more heavily to heal and sooth dry skin.
Ingredients:
4 parts beeswax
4 parts olive oil infused w/ equal parts of calendula, comfrey root, chamomile, and nettle
1 part liquid jojoba
1 part avocado oil
6 parts sweet almond oil
1% vitamin E T50 (optional)
Instructions:
I usually measure by fractions of a cup, but you can make a “part” whatever you desire. Melt wax in
double boiler. Turn off heat. Add remaining ingredents, stiring to prevent wax from becoming solid.
Pour into wide mouthed jar or tin. Allow to set until solid. (Cosistency can be checked before
pouring by dipping a spoon into the mix, and more wax or oils can be added to adjust firmness.)
Neem Balm
Submitted by Kathleen of Burlington, WA
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Melt together and pour into litle jars or as I do, into the little 1/4 or 1/2 oz tins.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Combine the water and borax in a heavy saucepan over low heat and stir until the borax has
dissolved. In a seperate saucepan, melt the beeswax and add the almond oil, coconut oil, and
liquid lanolin, stirring the mixture until all ingredients are well blended. This was taken from Janet
Reno. Remove from heat. Slowly pour the heated water/borax mixture into the oil/beeswax misture.
Stirring constantly. Continue stirring until the mix forms a thick, white cream and has cooled to
room temperature. Stir in fragrance oil. Pour into bottle or jar and seal.
Strawberry Cream
Submitted by Robert of Hyattsville, MD
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Thoroughly wash and drain several large, fresh strawberries. Mash and strain the juice through a
colander or sieve(if you have a fruit/vegetable juicer, this will be easier). Heat the cocoa butter,
lanolin, and almond oil in a double boiler(do this slowly, not to a boil). Remove from heat, and add
strawberry juice very quickly. Beat briskly until fluffy(an egg whisk or electric mixer will do). Put into
sterilized jars. Keep refridgerated. Apply each night, or when ever needed.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Melt shea butter, oil and jojoba and crumble camphor gum into the mix. (use rubber gloves it’s
really stinky) When it is liquid add essential oils and pour into a 4 oz container and let set. It will be
a thin ointment that will relieve tired muscles.
Winter Balm
Good for cracked heels and severe winter skin
Ingredients:
2 oz beeswax
2 oz shea butter
2 oz cocoa butter
2 oz coconut oil
2 oz avocado oil
2 oz apricot kernel oil
2 oz aloe vera oil
2 oz jojoba
2 oz emu oil
Germal Plus
FO or EO of choice
Instructions:
Melt Beeswax in a double boiler or pyrex measuring cup. Add butters, then coconut oil. Blend with
a stick blender while adding the remaining oils. Add the Emu, Germal Plus and scent last. Blend
for several minutes, until cool and put into jars or containers of choice. The small, plastic,
disposable containers work well.
Ingredients:
Beer mug
Gel Wax
Small amount of paraffin wax
7" 51 series zinc wick
Candle fragrance oil with flashpoint of 170 degrees or higher
Gold candle safe coloring
Instructions:
THE BEER: Follow the instructions for preparing the gel wax. Do not over heat. The cooler the gel,
the more bubbles you will have. While this is heating, get your wick positioned in the mug using a
little melted paraffin to hold the wick in place. Add your color and your scent to the gel wax (I use
vanilla)and stir thoroughly. Pour into mug, stopping about an inch from the top. Pull up on your
wick to straighten it. THE HEAD: Melt paraffin wax at med low heat. Once it has melted, take off
the burner and add fragrance. Start whipping it up with a fork. As the wax cools, it will turn white
again, and your whipping will make it frothy. When it is is thick enough to be spooned out, spoon it
on top of the “beer” in the mug. This forms the beer’s head. Tug your wick again, and while it is
setting up to be sure it stays straight.
Floater Candles
Instructions:
You can easily make floater candles by pouring wax into tart tins that have been greased with mold
release. Just pour the wax in and allow it to form a thin layer of hardened wax and then poke a hole
through the top so you can push a primed wick into the tart.
Rolling honeycomb sheets is the easiest & quickest way to make candles and these candles are a
blessing when you are low on inventory for a show or fair. The sheets can be rolled in a number of
different ways. You can take one sheet and simply roll the length of it or divide the sheet in half and
roll 2 small candles. You can also roll 1 fat candle from the 2 halves by rolling the first and then
lining up the edge of the second half with the end of the first and keep rolling. The sheets can be
cut in half on the diagonal and then you can create a tapered look by starting your roll on the
widest edge. Different colored sheets can be combined and rolled to make multicolored candles.
Seal the outer edge of the wax sheet with a hot knife pressing lightly but firmly so that the edge
seals onto the candle. Make sure you work in a relatively warm but not too hot environment so your
sheets don’t break or dent. Use with square braid wicks.
Instructions:
Clean out an empty milk carton and tape along the outside/bottom of it with masking tape to make
the walls stronger so they don’t bow from the weight of the wax. Melt some paraffin wax to about
140F. Place a taper candle the same height as the candle you want to make in the center of the
milk carton and fill up the carton with crushed ice. The ice should hold the taper in place. Place the
carton in a basin of some sort to catch any spilling water as the ice melts (not in the sink though!).
Slowly pour the wax into the carton until it fills to the top. If the level of the wax goes down, just add
more wax. When the candle is cool to the touch, hold it over a basin or tub and peel/cut the milk
carton off the candle. The melted water will gush out so be prepared. The taper inside the candle
can be replaced when it burns down completely.
Millefiori Candles
Millefiori means thousands of flowers.
Instructions:
It is done by creating logs of wax that have a design that runs through the length of the log so that
when it’s sliced, the slices all look the same. As you slice the log with a hot knife, the slices are
applied to a candle base. The logs can be created by rolling different colored wax sheets around
each other or by creating a multicolored taper.
To create the log using wax sheets, start with warm poured or store bought flat soft wax sheets.
Take a thin slice of one color and position it on the edge of another colored sheet. Roll the sheet
around the slice once. Cut off the excess. Then place the roll on top of another colored sheet and
roll it around the log once. Cut off the excess and continue building up layers by rolling the log in
different colored sheets. When it reaches a thickness of a taper candle, give it a good roll on a hard
surface to make it nice and round.
To create the logs by dipping, place several tins of colored waxes in a double boiler and melt them.
Take a 6 inch piece of a small wick and dip it into one of the colors a couple of times until you get
a good wax buildup. Then dip it into another color a few time until you get a build up. Keep dipping
in various colors until your log is about the size of a regular tapered candle. Put the wick out of the
candle halfway. When the log is warm, it should pull out easily. If the log gets too hard to slice, just
redip it in the last color you used for a bit and the hot wax should soften the log up again. Keep
pulling the wick out as you slice the log. The wick will allow you to redip in hot wax if necessary.
Warm a knife in a pot of boiling water and take a thin slice off the log and immediately apply it to
the candle base (start at the top and work down). Apply a little pressure to ‘glue’ it to the base.
Keep applying slices as close together as possible until the whole candle is covered or until you
have finished your design.
Instructions:
Have ready a large, clean trash can full of cold water. Melt about 12
oz of micro crystalline wax (to make the wax more pliable) in a double
boiler or crock pot. Add about 6.5 lbs of paraffin wax (medium
melting point - 140F), heat up the blend to about 170F and maintain
it at that temperature. Fill an empty pie plate with wax and place a 5
inch tall pillar candle base in the center. Allow it to harden by holding
the pie plate in the water. Once it’s firm, remove the pie plate from
the candle. Your pillar should now have a sturdy rim around it.
Holding the pillar so that the rim is at a 45 degree angle to the water, pour some wax into the rim
and slowly but firmly plunge the rim into the water, twisting it as you go. Keep repeating this
process as you go around the entire rim of the candle. The wax will form wispy wave-like shapes
around the pillar. When you burn the candle, only the pillar will burn so you can replace it when
necessary. To clean up, scoop up the wax bits from the water and allow them to air dry. You can
reuse these pieces if you are sure no water remains trapped inside. Crushing them with a rolling
pin and then allowing them to dry should get rid of any water. If you are not sure, just chuck them -
better to be safe than sorry.
Creating a whipped wax candle - whipped wax can be created with either paraffin and cornstarch
or beeswax and turpentine or just plain wax. Melt down your wax and stir in the cornstarch or
turpentine if you are using them. Start whisking your wax with a whisker or egg beater. When it gets
light and frothy, start applying it to a candle base like you would frosting to a cake. If it sets up, just
melt it back down again and re whisk it.
A 4-6 cup lye resistant container for mixing lye and water. This container must be made of stainless
steel, glass or heat resistant (212 degrees F) plastic. It must not be made of aluminum or tin.
Another large heat resistant container or pot (stainless steel, enamel or plastic will work) for mixing
the soap
A good quality scale for measuring ingredients (it’s nice to have one in ounces and anotehr in
grams if possible)
A soap mold - can be anything from a Rubbermaid(tm) type container to a wooden tray or even a
heavy duty cardboard box. Use your imagination and be on the look out for containers that will
make nice molds. It is adviseable to use something flexible so that the soap will come out easily
with a little twist.
Wax paper or a plastic bag to line the molds with to prevent leaks and deterioration of the mold
itself. Replace cardboard molds when warped to avoid unshapely bars.
Two thermometers for checking the temperatures of the oils and the lye solution - the type used for
candy making will work best (220 degrees F)
Safety First
Lye is a caustic substance! If you will be keeping your lye in the house or in other accessible areas,
make sure to store it in a proper child proof container and educate all members of the family about
the nature of lye. Keep it away from areas where pets and young children have access. Children
and pets should not be allowed in teh work area until all the equipment has been cleaned and put
away. Do not place pots/bowls near the edge of the counter. Do not leave the area unattended.
Wear protective goggles and rubber gloves when working. Wear long sleeves and close fitting
clothing. If you accidently get lye on your skin, flush the area with ordinary vinegar and wash well
with soap and water. (Lye will feel slippery on skin.) Never reuse lye containers for other purposes.
When mixing lye with water, always add the lye to the water and not the other way around. Be
careful not to inhale the dust when pouring the lye and work in a well ventilated area.
Although soap can be made anywhere, it is easiest if you have quick access to a stove and sink,
making the kitchen the ideal work area. Use the exhaust hood when mixing lye or mix outside.
Have adequate space to work on.
Pour the water into the appropriate container (remember, no aluminum!). Carefully pour the lye
into the water and stir until dissolved. Do not breathe in the fumes. Leave the solution to cool to
within 5 degrees of the required temperature of the recipe at which point you can start heating up
the oils in a saucepan. If you are using grapefruit seed extract, add it to the warm oils.
When the oils have reached the required temperature, check the lye temperature. If it becomes too
cool, place the container in another container filled with hot water. Do not attempt to heat the lye
in a microwave or on the stove. The oils will heat quickly so remove the saucepan frmo the heat
source when the temperature is within 5-10 degrees of the required temperature.
When the correct temperatures have been reached, pour the oils into the container that you will
use to make the soap. While stirring, pour the lye carefully into the oils. Stir continuously until the
soap traces. Tracing is described as the point at which the soap will eave a mark when soap from
the spatula is drizzled over the surface of the soap in the container.
At this point, stir in any nutrient oils, color pigments and essential or fragrance oils but work
quickly. Some fragrance oils will cause the soap to suddenly solidify. Grapefruit seed extract will
cause a quicker trace than usual.
Pour soap into mold and cover with a piece of wood or wrap with an old blanket or towel. Leave
the soap undisturbed for at least 24 hours until it cools. The soap should be firm with no pools of
oil on top. If it’s not firm, wait another day or so and check again.
Remove the soap from the mold and slice into bars. If you have trouble getting the soap out of the
mold, try placing the mold in the freezer overnight and it should then pop out easily. The soap
needs to cure for the given amount of time in the recipe.
You can check to see if it’s cured by washing your hands with it. If it leaves a slimy feeling, leave
it to cure for another week.
http://www.fromnaturewithlove.com/soap/creator.asp
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Melt the kokum butter and coconut oil and add to all the oils; Add lye to the floral waters
THE TEMPERATURE OF LYE WITH FLORAL WATER MUST MATCH THE TEMPERATURE OF
THE OILS.
When both reach 105-106 degrees, mix water and oil. Stir, stir, stir [use handblender.] When it
starts to thicken, add half of the azuki beans, and 1 tablespoon of the orange essential oils - use
your nose to see if you need more.
Mix mix mix. Add chamomile leaves. Add Vitamin E. When it saponifies [looks like thick pea soup]
you are ready to pour the soap into your mold. Make sure your mold is lined with parchment paper.
Wrap the soap in mold with a towel. Wait a day or two before slicing. Slice soaps, air dry and put in
cupboard. Wait 2-3 months.
You’ll have a beautiful soap that will gently exfoliate and moisturize your skin. I’ve used this and it is
great! Lathers beautifully.
Ingredients:
8 oz soft water
3 oz lye
7 oz crisco, palm oil or tallow
7 oz coconut oil
6 oz olive oil
1 oz jojoba oil
1 oz Bubble gum fragrance oil
Imperial Red Mica to color
Instructions:
Mix water and lye together. Let cool to 100 degrees. Blend oils together over a double boiler all
except the essential/fragrance oil. Melt and cool to 100 degrees. Blend the lye mixture and oils
together slowly and stir till it traces. Add the mica mixed with the fragrance oil so there are no
clumps of mica. Pour in mold and wrap in blanket to keep temp at an even 100 degrees then insert
thermometer to keep track. When it gets to 80 degrees it’s ready to unmold, cut and let rest for 2
weeks to cure.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Dissolve lye in water, allow to cool. Combine oils and Shea butter in large soap pot and warm over
low until various components have melted. Remove from heat to cool. When both mixtures reach
95’F it’s time to make soap. Combine in large pot and stir briskly until soap traces. Add the
essential oils and stir well. Pour into mold, put it someplace quiet and wrap to insulate. After 24
hours, unmold and cut as desired. Allow soap to cure for at least three weeks before using.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Use rubber gloves and safty goggles to prevent injury from lye. Weigh all ingredients. Use glass,
plastic or enamel coated pan to mix lye water. Slowly add lye to the water and let it sit until temp is
about 95 degrees. Meanwhile, warm the oils to about 110 degrees. Have all your additives ready to
put in (do this while the lye solution is cooling). Add the lye solution to the oils slowly to prevent
splashing and stir until the mixture is like thin pudding. At light trace, add your scents and pour
into pregreased molds (I use mineral oil). Wrap in a blanket and let it set for 12-24 hours. Remove
and cut into desired sizes and lay in the open to cure for at least two weeks. This makes a pretty
white bar that takes scents well and has a fairly good lather.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Since I was just looking around in the fridge one day when this idea came to me, and I was limited
to what I had on hand, it is only a small batch. It has good lather though, beautiful color which has
held up (3 weeks so far) and produces a very nice hard bar like the tallow soaps are. Chop and boil
1 cup of fresh carrots, then mix with water to total 9oz. liquid. Add 3.5 oz lye. Let cool to 100
degrees. Mix oils and let cool to 100 degrees (I added 2 Tbsp. GSE). Follow basic safety
instructions. Add lye/carrot mixture to oils. At light trace I added 2 Tbsp. Apricot FO. At heavy trace
pour in mold and let sit 18-24 hours. Do not let sit longer than 24 hours, since this does make a
very hard bar and may be difficult to cut later. I cut mine in 18 hours. Although my carrots were not
pureed totally, there was no trace of chunks or pieces after curing. Maybe my stick blender finished
the job.
Ingredients:
24oz Water
9oz Lye
20oz Coconut Oil
17.5oz Palm Oil
4.3oz Castor Oil
11.4oz Canola Oil
4.1oz Aloe Oil
5.1oz Sweet Almond Oil
.8oz Shea Butter
.8oz Cocoa Butter
1-1/2 tsp. Clovebud EO
1-1/2 tsp. Spearmint EO
1-1/2 tsp. Neroli FO
1/2 C. Calendula Petals @ Trace
Instructions:
Blend EO’s and FO (preferably 24 hours in advance) and cover. Add lye to water and let cool to
90* - 110* Melt solid oils, stir in liquid oils and bring to 90* - 110*. Drizzle lye solution into the oils,
stirring constantly. Stir a couple minutes(or until trace if stirring completely by hand). Stick blend to
trace. Add EO’s and Calendula Petals. Pour into mold.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Dissolve Sodium Hydroxide in water and allow to cool in safe place. Warm oils in large non-reactive
pot,until solids are melted. When both mixtures have cooled to 95’carefully combine in large pot.
Stir to trace. Stir in essential oil. Pour in large mold. I use a 13" square wooden wine box with a lid.
Allow to sit undisturbed in warm area for 24 hours. Cut into bars place in cool, dry area for at least
3 weeks, turn bars over every few days for even drying. This recipe makes 4lbs of soap. I cut it into
24 bars.
Ingredients:
32 oz Olive Oil
8 oz Palm Oil
8 oz Coconut Oil
6.5 oz Lye
18 oz Water
4 or 5 teaspoons fragrance oil
1 heaping teaspoon herbal additives for interest. I like ground chamomile!
Instructions:
After measuring all ingredients by WEIGHT, not volume, pour powered lye (with gloves and goggles
on for safety!!) into water (NEVER the reverse!!) Stir, set aside.
Measure out fats by WEIGHT; melt, let temperature fall to about 110-130 degrees. Cool lye mixture
in cold water in sink until its temperature falls to 110-130 degrees.
When both mixtures are the SAME temperature (between 110-130 degrees), pour lye mixture into
fat mixture. Stir continually for 45 to 55 minutes until you are sure mixture is at trace (you can see
lines and swirls in the soap as you stir).
Add fragrance oils and herbs just before pouring into mold. (I like wood loaf-shaped molds!) Pour
soap into container lined with freezer paper (for easy release). Cover top with Saran wrap (to
prevent powdery buildup).
Wrap mold in blankets so temperature will fall slowly as soap cures. (You don’t want soap to catch
cold!!)
In a couple of days, release soap from mold and cut into bars. Place bars separately on wax paper,
and cover loosely with another sheet of wax paper so air can circulate. Turn the bars 1/4 turn every
couple of days so they will cure evenly.
After about two weeks, wrap each bar in shrink wrap (with your label, of course!) and let soap
continue to cure for two more weeks. Tell your friends and customers to enjoy their new soap that
lathers and pampers their skin like no other!! Enjoy!!
Ingredients:
Instructions:
If you are not familiar with making CP soap, please do your reading before making this recipe.
Combine fats in a pan and melt over low heat. Combine the lye and goat’s milk in a separate
container. When the lye mixture and the fats meet at the same temperature between 130 and 140,
combine the two. Stir well. At trace add the dry goat’s milk powder. Pour into molds. Allow to
harden for 24 to 48 hours and once dry turn out and cut into bars. Allow to cure for four weeks.
Ingredients:
Oils:
2.4 oz Sweet Almond Oil
4.0 oz Coconut Oil
3.4 oz Grapeseed Oil
2.4 oz Olive Oil
2.4 oz Palm Oil
2.4 oz Sunflower Oil
Lye/Water:
2.4 oz NaOH/Lye
5.7 oz Water
Instructions:
Combine oils, heat gently. Once the fats and oils are melted and the temperature is 100-125
degrees, the oils are ready. Temporarily set oils aside.
Combine the lye and the water. Add the lye slowly and stir constantly, never let a bunch of granules
become caked on the bottom of the container. Once the temperature has cooled to 100-125
degrees, the lye solution is ready.
Combine the melted oils and lye solution together. Stir until tracing occurs. Add fragrance.
Pour into prepared molds. Allow 1 to 2 days to set-up. Remove from mold and cut into bars. Allow
to cure. When the bars are cured, the pH reading should be between 7.5 and 9.0.
Ingredients:
5 1/2 oz castor
30 oz wt hydrogenated soy
40 oz wt olive oil
16 oz wt coconut oil
5 1/2 tsp each salt and sugar
12 1/2 oz lye
34 fl oz distilled water
Instructions:
Mix lye in 30 oz of the water. Dissolve 5 1/2 tsp each of salt and sugar into the remaining 4oz of
water and add back to your lye solution. Let the lye reach 125 degrees. Warm oils to 125 degrees
and combine with lye solution. Blend until trace is reached. Pour into molds. I used 2" PVC and
unmold in 48 hours. This makes a nice hard bar with lots of medium bubbles. I find it a bit drying,
but my husband loves it.
Ingredients:
OILS:
2.6 oz Sweet almond oil
2.6 oz Castor oil
2.6 oz Coconut oil
2.6 oz Grapeseed oil
21.4 oz Olive oil
LYE/LIQUID:
4.3 oz NaOH/Lye
11.4 fl oz Water
SCENT:
1.4 oz Lemongrass EO
(can add another 0.5 oz. Tea Tree Oil for treating acne)
Instructions:
Pour lye into water, stir until clear. Set aside to cool (c. 100-F)
Pour lye/water mixture in slow steady stream into the oils. Stir to trace. Use stick blender
intermittently with spoon (no more than 1 minute at a time for blender).
A good mold for this batch is an empty “Parmalat” milk container. Don’t cut off the top, just slice it
open so that you can refold it closed to help keep batch warm for first 48 hours.
Soap should slip out easily, allowing for possibly one more use of the mold (otherwise just peel it
off). Will yield nice, palm-sized rectagular shapes once cut.
To help container keep its firm shape, reinforce sides and bottom of box with packing tape.
Container should hold most or all of the 2lbs of soap, but have an extra individual mold or two
around to catch any extra soap.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Family favorite! Sweet smelling soap with great lather (does not use Palm oil)
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Mix water, salt, and lye. Let cool. Mix soybean oil, oilive oil, coconut oil, and beeswax. Heat oils until
they reach 100-110 degrees F. Wait until lye mixture cools to 90-95degrees F. Slowly stir together
oils and lye mixture. Stir and stir and stir! Add almond and honey fragrance oils. Stir! (If unable to
reach trace, place mixture in microwave for one minute and 15 seconds.) Once you reach light
trace, add coloring (I like the beeswax color naturally produced, so I don’t color this particular
batch). Stir and pour into mold. Cover mold.
In two days, release from mold and cut soap into slices (if applicapable). Let soap cure for at least
4-6 weeks. The longer cure time, the harder (longer lasting) your bar of soap will be!
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Follow basic cold process soapmaking procedures and combine lye solution & oils at 110 to 120
degrees. Stir in the milk. This recipe usually traces within 20 min. Add essential oil. Pour in mold. (I
use a plastic rubbermail drawer organizer. Leave in mold for two days. Remove from mold and
allow to age for 3 weeks).
Ingredients:
18 oz canola oil
18 oz olive oil
5 oz virgin coconut oil
4 oz palm
4 oz neem oil
2 oz sesame (to be reserved to mix with herbs & clay)
12 oz of liquid (I use distilled water made into an herb tea infused with: marshmellow root, comfrey
root & calendula petals)
61/2 oz of lye (sodium hydroxide)
Herbs:
1 T Tulsi
1 t Tumeric
1 t basil
1 t comfrey root
1 T neem powder
1 T Bentonite Clay
1 T Fullers Earth
1 T each of essential oil of Sandalwood & Myrrh
Instructions:
Follow basic soap making instructions: Make sure the herb tea is cold before adding lye, cool to
100 degrees, add to warmed oils, (about 110 degrees) stir to a light trace. Add herbs and clay
mixed with the two oz of sesame oil and blend well, then stir in essential oils. This recipe will make
one dozen 5 oz (plus) bars. This has a powerful odor while making, but cures out to be a very
pleasant, fresh smelling bar. (see info on the benefits of Neem, clays and herbs used) I can’t seem
to keep enough of this on hand!
Exceptionally elegant gift soap. Great way to put the FNWL 4 oz. butter sampler sets to use.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
This makes a few, medium sized elegant gift bars, depending on the molds used. Use a decorative
but sturdy set of molds to ladel in the raw soap. ~ Combine lye and liquid, stir well. Set aside and
to cool (100° F to 125° F).
~ Pour lye/liquid solution into melted oils in thin steady stream. Stir until trace. Can use stick
blender intermittently, but for no more than one minute at a time — then go back to spoon.
Should trace quite quickly. Don’t over-stir beyond trace.
~ Pour raw soap into your prepared molds. ~ After 48 hours, the soap can be turned out of the
mold. Allow to cure for 3 weeks. Place the bars on something that will allow air to circulate all
around (or flip bars every few days).
Ingredients:
12 oz. lard
1.5 lbs. coconut oil
1.5 lbs. avocado oil
11 oz. water
10 oz. lye
10 oz. goats milk
1 tablespoon dill weed-finely chopped
1 tablespoon anise e.o.
3 tablespoons fennel e.o.
1 1/2 teaspoons grapefruit seed extract
Instructions:
Measure all ingredients. Melt lard and coconut oil. Set aside. Add lye to water. Add avocado oil to
melted lard/coconut oil. Cool both the lye and the oils to 95 degrees. Warm the goats milk to 95
degrees. When all temperatures match add the goats milk to the lye water and stir slightly, add
milk/lye mixture to oils, stir with a stick blender until trace. Quickly add dill weed, essential ois and
grapefruit seed extract. Mix slighly with stick blender. Pour into prepared molds. This recipe makes
almost 6 pounds.
*This soap is naturally antibacterial because of the anise and fennel essential oils.
Ingredients:
Avocado Oil, 3 oz
Castor Oil, 2 oz
Jojoba Oil, 3 oz
Olive Oil, 12 oz
Palm Oil, 6 oz
Palm Kernel Oil, 5 oz
Wheat Germ Oil, 1 oz
Beeswax, 1 oz
Lye, 4.1 oz
Cold Water, 10 oz
Instructions:
Carefully make your lye and water mixture, using standard safety procedures and let cool to about
100-110 degrees F. Gently warm the oils and beeswax, just enough to melt the beeswax and cool
to about 100-110 degrees. Slowly and carefully, add the lye/water mixture to the oils and stir well.
This recipe traces quickly, so add any fragrance oils and/or essential oils at light trace. Pour into
molds (and by the way, it’s a great recipe if you want to use fancy molds) and cover lightly for about
24 hours. This recipe as listed is at about a 5% superfatting ratio.
Peppermint Wake Up
Submitted by Holly of Wilmington, DE
Ingredients:
1 TBSP Peppermint EO
1 tsp Rosemary EO
1 tsp Tea Tree EO
.25 grams T50 or ROE
1/3 cup peppermint leaves, finely ground
Instructions:
To a 5 lb. batch of cold-process soap at trace (recipe of choice) add T50 (or ROE), essential oils,
and finely ground peppermint leaves. Use a whisk to blend well. Pour into molds.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Combine lye into liquid, stir well. Wear your eye goggles and gloves. Cool to 110 degrees.
Combine oils and heat to 110 degrees. Add lye solution to oils. Stir until trace. Add desired scent.
Pour in mold.
Shaving Soap
Submitted by Bonnie of Cedar City, UT
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Heat oils to 100. Partially freeze buttermilk. Slowly add lye to milk, don’t let it go over 100.
Combine.
At trace: add 3.5 oz lavender eo, 3 Tbsp castor oil & 2 Tbsp sweet almond oil.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Follow your basic soap recipe. I melt the Shea Butter in the microwave for about 20 seconds or so
it doesn’t take long. and I add it along with the other oils.
This recipe will produce 4-6 bars depending on the size of your molds. I think these bars are simliar
to the lquid soap they sell at bath and body works that has the shea butter in it.
Ingredients:
42 oz Olive Oil
30 oz Vegetable Shortening
6 oz Cocoa Butter
3 oz Castor
14 oz Lye
41 oz Distilled Water
Instructions:
Follow basic cold process soap procedures and combine oils & lye solution at 95-98º. Slow to
trace, mechanical stir 30-35 minutes. Trace hard to recognize, but small amount of mixture
dropped on cool surface should hold shape and not run. Insulate 24 hrs, unmold, cut & cure 3-4
weeks.
Cucumber soap
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Mix lye and water and cool to 90 degrees. Puree the cucumbers, will be about 2 or 3 large cukes.
Heat the oils to 90 degrees. Mix lye solution and the oils, blend well, add the cucumber puree.
Bring to light trace, add fragrance of your choice. Bring to heavy trace. Pour in molds. LEAVE IT
ALONE. :-)
Notes: Even in very hard water it has lots of lather, very creamy, and is very soothing to the skin.
Uncolored, it is very lovely pale ivory, slightly translucent. No GSE (Grapefruit Seed Extract)
needed. If you choose to modify this recipe by subbing other oils or butters, it will not be remotely
the same unbelievably wonderful soap.
Tons of Bubbles
Submitted by Dawn of Gladstone, MI
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Ingredients:
Instructions:
[Please use gloves, goggles, apron, long sleeves shirt during ENTIRE cold processing cycle,
ESPECIALLY when mixing water/lye solution, to insure personal safey] Measure 12 oz. water into
glass/plastic pitcher. Measure 4.32 oz of lye. Slowly mix lye INTO water a little at a time until
complete incorporated. Set safely aside to cool to 115 degrees. Meanwhile heat all solid oils
(cocoa, coconut, beeswax) until fully melted. Remove from heat and mix in olive oil. Transfer to
glass/plastic bowl. Oil mixture should be cooled to 100 degrees. (Lye/water solution at 115
degrees, oils at 100 degrees) Once oils have reached desire degree slowly pour in lye/water
solution a little at a time until fully incorporated. Trace time will be reached within 15-20 minutes.
At trace quickly mix in ground (course) oat meal. Sprinkly a litte whole oats at the bottom of
individual greased molds. Pour in soap mixture. Seal with saran wrap. Set in warm place for 24-72
hours. Remove from molds. Cure 4 to 6 weeks. Note: Do not use fast cooking oats. Soap will have
a strong unpleaseant smell, but it will become pleasant during the curing process. At the end it will
have a light honey/cocoa scent. Enjoy.
Lye Solution:
3 lbs (48 oz) distilled water
475g Sodium Hydroxide
Fats:
2-1/2 lbs (40 oz) Coconut Oil
1-1/2 lbs (24 oz) Palm Oil
1-3/4 lbs (28 oz) Olive Oil, Grade B or pomace (2 lbs less 1/2 cup)
1 oz (2 tbsp) Wheat Germ Oil
1 oz (2 tbsp) Carrot Seed Essential Oil
1 oz (2 tbsp) Carrot Root Oil
1 oz (2 tbsp) Vitamin E Oil
1/2 lb (8 oz) Sweet Almond Oil
1/2 lb (8 oz) Apricot Kernel Oil
1/2 lb (8 oz) Kukui Nut Oil
1/2 lb (8 oz) Jojoba Oil
4 oz Shea Butter
30g Grapefruit Seed Extract
Nutrients:
2 oz (4 tbsp) Avocado Oil
2 oz (4 tbsp) Evening Primrose Oil, Borage Oil or Rosa Mosqueta Rosehip seed Oil
Scent:
45-50g (about 3 oz) essential oils
Instructions:
Add lye to water and let cool to 80 degrees. Melt fats and let cool to 80-90 degrees. Add lye to fats
and stir briskly for up to one hour til it “traces”. Add nutrients and essential oils, stir to combine
and pour into molds. Cover with blankets and allow to sit for 24 to 48 hours until it stops
generating heat. When hard (up to a week), cut and remove from mold. Set out to dry and cure for
4-6 weeks.
Ingredients:
Oils
1.6 oz Sweet Almond Oil
0.6 oz Cocoa Butter
9.6 oz Olive Oil
8.0 oz Palm Kernel Oil
12.2 oz Shortening (veg)
Instructions:
Make soap according to basic soaping instructions. The EO’s are expensive but more than worth it.
Add the dried herbs just before pouring into molds. I usually make this recipe in a PVC tube mold
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Mix together Olive Oil and Aloe Vera Oil. Set aside. Melt Coconut Oil and Beeswax. Add olive oil
and aloe oil to this mixture. Add hydrosol while blending in processor until smooth. Transfer to jars
and let cool.
Cucumber Cream
Submitted by Yohana of Voorhees, NJ
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Dissolve borax in the water and add the grapefruit seed extract. Mix together oil and beeswax in
another cup. Place the glass cup in a pan of water (about 1-2 inches of water). Heat the oil-
beeswax mixture in the water bath over medium heat until beeswax is melted, stirring occasionally.
Bring this mixture almost to boiling. Remove the mixture from the water bath. Slowly add the
borax-water mixture to it. Add the cucumber juice and stir thoroughly. You can whip the mixture in
the blender. Add the Fragrance oil if using and cool completely. Take a small amount of cream and
mix the mica into it removing all of the clumps. Add the colored cream back to the main batch and
blend well.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
1) In a ceramic bowl thoroughly mix the avocado oil, honey, and glycerin.
Apply to hands and rub in well until it soaks into the skin and the almond remains fall off. Makes
enough for a few applications.
Instructions:
Blend 1st 2 ingredients w/spoon until curdled and thickened. Then add desired ingredients and
massage into skin. Rinse.
Ingredients:
1 oz beeswax
1 oz of floral water or hydrosol(preferably lavendar, violet or rose)
1 oz of emu oil
2 oz of lecithin
Pinch of borax
1/2 tsp of pure lavendar essential oil
Instructions:
Melt beeswax. When melted add oils and lecithin and reheat. Remove from heat and briskly whip in
the borax dissolved in the floral water. When mixture begins to thicken add the lavendar oil. When
nearly cold put in jars. You can substitute Lavendar oil with Rose, Rose Geranium, Clary Sage,
Tuberose etc.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Melt the oils, butter, beeswax and lanolin mixture in the water bath over medium heat. Allow
mixture to cool to room temperature. The oil and water mixtures need to be the same temperature
for your cream to be successful. Put the hydrosol and floral water, glycerin, aloe vera and vitamin E
and A into a blender. Turn it on medium-high speed then begin to drizzle in the oil mixture.
Continue until all the oil is added or until the blender begins to slow down and acts as if it will stop.
The mixture should look thick and creamy. Keep cream in the refrigerator. If you keep a container
in the bathroom it will stay good for two - three weeks. If you use a preservative it should be fine for
much longer.
Ingredients:
2 oz shea butter
1/2 oz jojoba oil
1/2 oz meadowfoam
1 oz olive or coconut oil
a few drops of favorite essential or fragrance oil
Instructions:
Thoroughly mix all ingredients together for a thick creamy skin butter that will absorb well and
moisturize even the driest skin.
*To revitalize dry cracked skin on heels of feet, apply skin butter at night and cover feet in plastic
wrap and socks. Skin will be smooth and soft in the morning.
Full of moisture and soothing oils; ultra-pampers your hands and body!
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Heat water, borax and glycerine in a saucepan until the borax is completely dissolved. In a separate
saucepan, combine oils and beeswax to melt the coconut oil and the beeswax. Bring each mixture
to about 160 dregrees F and remove from stove. Pour oil into a heatproof mixing bowl. While
slowly pouring water mixture into the oils, beat thoroughly (you can use a blender stick [preferred]
or an electric mixer). The mixture will start to thicken in a few minutes; continue beating until firm
and creamy. Store in plastic dome jars. Makes about 16 oz.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Whipped Creme
This is a very light cream good for all body areas.....its especially nice when scented with cucumber
and tinted very pale green.
All items used to make cream should be sterilized.
Combine citric acid and water over double boiler water until the citric acid dissolves and then add
all the remaining ingredients except fragrance, color, and Germaben II. When the mixture turns a
creamy color, pour into a blender and whip off and on until it cools ( this can take quite a while ). I
usually whip it for 5 minutes let it cool 10 minutes and so on. Add remaining ingredients and whip
some more. You don’t want it to get so cool that you can’t pour it. This will thicken in jars as it
cools more.
Makes approximately 20 ounces of cream. I hope you enjoy this as much as my family and I do.
For keeping umbilical cord free of infection and promoting fast fall off
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Place herbs in glass jar and cover with alcohol. Let sit for 2 weeks, shaking jar each day. Strain and
bottle.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Heat oils, shea butter and beeswax to 175 degrees. In separate container heat water and glycerin
to 175 and then add GSE. Combine and mix until emulsified, about 30 minutes.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Baby Soap
Submitted by Bonnie of Cedar City, UT
Ingredients:
194 g lye
19 oz water
8 oz sweet almond oil
7 oz jojoba
2 oz castor oil
4 oz shea butter
19 oz coconut oil
14 oz palm oil
1 oz vitamin E oil
Instructions:
Heat oils to 100 degrees. Combine lye and water and cool to 100 degrees. Combine oils and lye/
water mixing well. At trace add the vitamin E oil. Pour into a mold and proceed as you would with
cold process soap.
Ingredients:
Muslin bags
Lavender bud powder
Chamomile powder
Colloidal oatmeal fine
Cornstarch
A few drops of jojoba or other oil
Instructions:
Combine all the ingredients in a blender and thouroughly mix. Pour a small amount into the muslin
bag. When bathing baby, soften bag in bath water, then gently squeeze muslin bag over baby and
rub lightly with bag.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Heat calendula oil, beeswax and butter until melted. Mix the mica into the essential oil until it has
no clumps. Stir the colored lavender oil to the slightly cooled oil/butter mixture and pour into jars
or deodorant containers. Apply to baby’s bottom in between diaper changes. Also great for cheeks
and drool drenched chins!
100% natural oil for baby, with healing & soothing properties.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Mix all of the ingredients together. Pour into a 6 oz. cobalt bottle. Use oil after baby’s bath, or for
baby massage. Since it uses 100% natural oils, it will absorb in nicely, and keep babies skin soft
and healthy.
Diaper Ointment
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Mix oils, butter and beeswax together in double boiler until wax and butter is melted. Then add the
Calendula and stir. Add 1% Tea Tree, Lavender and Chamomile essential oils (combined volume).
Pour into jars.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Grind the herbs into a powder using a clean coffee grinder or blender. Warm oil in top of a double
boiler pot; add the powdered herbs and cook over medium heat for 30 minutes to 1 hour to allow
the healing properties of the herbs to fully release in the oil. Place remaining oils in a glass bowl.
Place a coffee filter inside a wire strainer, hold over glass bowl, and pour the warm herb oil through
the strainer into the bowl. Melt the beeswax in the top of a double boiler; add slowly to the oil and
herb mixture while whisking with a wisk or egg beater. Continue whisking until the mixture is thick
and creamy. Store in 2-4 oz. containers. If you plan to store balm longer than 3 months, keep
refrigerated.
Ingredients:
4 oz cornstarch
4 oz arrowroot
1 oz white kaolin clay
1 oz colloidal oat starch
1 oz powdered lavender buds
1 oz powdered calendula petals
1 tsp of a pearlescent mica to color
6 - 10 drops of essential oil of mandarin or lavender
Instructions:
Add the essential oil to the powdered herbs and mix well. Add the other dry ingredients to the
herbs and mix. Add mica a little at a time until you get enough color. Sift and transfer into powder
sifters.
Mild and gentle but make sure child has no allergies to milk or milk products
Ingredients:
1 lb Cornstarch
3 cups Goats Milk Powder
1/4 cup Lavender Powder
1/4 cup Calendula Petal Powder
1/2 cup Chamomile Powder
7 to 10 drops Lavender Essential oil
2 drops Chamomile Essential Oil
Instructions:
Combine lavender powder with lavender oil and add chamomile oil to chamomile powder. Then
combine all ingredients and mix well. Use 1 few Tablespoons for a baby size tub and increase for
larger tubs and older children. Place mixture in a muslin drawstring bag or tie up in cheesecloth
and add to bath water for gentle cleansing, softening and healing of the skin and as an aid to treat
restlessness and insomnia.
I package these in cello bags tied with a card with instructions for use and a muslin bag attached.
Soothing baby lotion for baby’s skin and lightly scented for calming
Ingredients:
Instructions:
In a blender, mix aloe gel,lanolin,vitamin E oil. Using a glass container, melt coconut oil and
beeswax until fully melted. Gently stir in camelina oil. Slowly pour oils into blender on low. At this
point oils will thicken and turn white. Stop blender and add essential oil,if used. Blend gently in
short bursts. Do NOT over blend. Add lavender and chamomile powders, blend gently until
incorporated. While mixture is still warm, pour into containers. This mixture will thicken quickly as
it cools. This lotion doesn’t leave oily feeling to skin and absorbs well. Great as a massage lotion for
baby. Makes approximately 2 1/2 cups.
Instructions:
Bath salts can be made from one salt or a blend of salts. They can be colored or left uncolored,
scented with essential oils or fragrance oils or left unscented. To color bath salts, you can use any
of the micas, glitters, oxides & marines or FDC dyes. Micas can be mixed into the dry salts and
they will coats the salt very nicely without any oil or glycerin however, to use the oxides or marines,
you will need to first mix the pigments into some oil/glycercin and then mix the colored oil/glycerin
into the salts. While the FDC dyes can be used, they must first be mixed with water and the water
will tend to clump your salts. Glitter can be added to oiled salts for a sparkling effect. The addition
of dendritic salt at a rate of 5% may help discourage clumping and scent fading. Crushed herbs are
a nice addition to bath salts if you provide a muslin bag. There is no reason to try to follow a recipe
when it comes to making bath salts because no particular proportions are needed. Simply
measure out how much of each salt you want to use and start adding color a little at a time until
you get the desired color. Fragrance oils can be added a few drops at a time until you get the hang
of how much it takes. Essential oils must of course be measured to keep them within safe limits. To
figure out how much essential oil to use, first determine how much salt will be used per bath and
then figure on 6-10 drops essential oil per bath.
Instructions:
Mix salt with enough oil to make a slush. Add color and fragrance. Salt glows are best stored/
packaged in glass jars/bottles.
Bath Cookies
Submitted by Maryam of Lexington, VA
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Mix ingredients well to form a dough. Roll out and cut with small cookie cutters. Bake at 350 for 10
minutes. Use 1-2 cookies per bath.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Mix dry ingredients, melt coconut oil and drizzle over dry ingredients and mix. Using ice cream
scoop, make 3 scoops and unmold them onto waxed paper and allow to dry 2 days. Fun to
package in pretty plastic parfait dish for those chocolate ice cream lovers out there.
Instructions:
Color and scent 2 parts salt. Mix the dry powders with the scented salts.
Melt a small amount of virgin coconut oil, shea, cocoa or mango butter and use it to bind the dry
ingredients together without making them too wet. Form into balls or pack into molds. Let dry and
package.
Instructions:
Color and scent 2 parts salt. Mix the dry powders with the scented salts and package.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Mix dry ingredients together except the citric acid. Mix well to get all lumps out. Mix oils, sodium
lauryl sulfoacetate and fragrance. Drizzle oil mixture in the dry mixture and mix well with hands.
Add citric acid, mix well. Spritz with witch hazel using small bursts of mist at a time, kneeding after
each mist. Do not over spritz. When you can form balls in your palm, it is ready to put into mold. 4-
5 ounce molds are good for 1 bath. Place under running water. Smell the fragrance, see lots of
foaming bubbles, feel the soft water and no tub ring!
Ingredients:
Instructions:
In a large bowl add the salts (2 cups is a good amount to experiment with)and colorant and mix
until desired shade is achieved. Add in the scent, mix, and let it sit overnight, covered tightly to fix
the scent. (*note: you can also add a little vegetable oil - about a TBS or so). Next, pour in about 1/
4 cup of bubble bath, mix thoroughly and then spread the mix out on a cookie sheet covered in
wax paper to dry. After 24 hours, it is ready to package or use! About a 1/2 cup or so per bath
should be plenty.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Mix all dry ingredients in a large bowl. Add Lavender oil. Scoop into teabags (1/4 cup per teabag)
Seal. Drop into tub and let it brew.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Mix the salts and lavender buds. In a smaller bowl combine 4 tbsp of the salts with essential oils.
Add little by little to the rest until you like the scent saturation. Add color, if you like. Store in a glass
container shaking every day for a week before packaging.
Ingredients:
1 c. baking soda
1/2 c. citric acid
1/2 c. corn starch
2 1/2 T. safflower oil
3/4 T. water
2 tsp. EO or FO
1/2 tsp. Borax
Instructions:
Mix dry ingredients (except borax)until well blended. In a separate bowl combine oil, water, EO or
FO, and borax. Mix well. Very slowly drizzle wet ingredients over dry ingredients with one hand while
mixing it with the other hand (use your hands to mix this, not a utensil). If you pour the liquids too
quickly your mixture will fizz. Pack into molds really hard. Unmold immediately onto a lined cookie
sheet and let dry overnight. This is the best bath fizzy recipe I’ve ever tried. Just enough oil to
moisturize without making you feel greasy.
Mix ingredients well. Pack into a large muslin bag leaving little room in the bag for the contents to
move around. Plunge the filled bag into a bowl of warm water, squeeze and rub into the skin to
cleanse. Other clays may be used for special skin types (read the properties of each clay to see if a
different clay would be better for your use).
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Mix all of the dry ingredients together and then add the fragrance. Mix until the FO is distributed
evenly throughout the mixture. Put 2 ounces in a large heat sealable teabag and seal with an iron.
Makes about 4 tea bags.
Oatmeal-Salt Bath
Submitted by Darlene of Penna. Furnace, PA
The oatmeal makes the water look murky, but it feels wonderful.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Combine all dry ingredients in a food processor and pulse. To keep from getting the essential/
fragrance oils in my food processor, I transfer approx. 1/2 cup or so of the dry ingredients to a zip
lock bag. Add the oils to the bag, seal it, and shake well to incorporate the oils into the dry
ingredients and break up any clumps. Once it is well mixed, add the rest of the dry ingredient
mixture to the bag and shake some more until it is well mixed.
Store in an air tight container. (Could leave in the sealed bag if you plan on using it in the near
future.)
Use approx. 1/4 - 2/3 cup per bath.
Instructions:
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Mix all together and then “sift” several times through a fine mesh strainer. Put into “shaker”
containers and enjoy!
Silk Soak
Submitted by Annette of Eugene, OR
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Coarsly grind the seeds in a blender or food processor. Add the other ingredients and mix
thoroughly. Fragrance with oils or dry ingredients. Because the sunflower seeds are so fragrant,
earthy scents like nutmeg, almond and comfrey work well. I prefer to use dry fragrances but oils
work well too. This luxurious bath combines the skin soothing properties of oatmeal with softening
milk and corn starch. The ground seeds release their natural oils when added to a hot bath.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Mix all items in a medium mixing bowl. Put under running water. Then relax and enjoy! :)
Ingredients:
Instructions:
In a large bowl combine dendritic salt, FO/EO and fixed oil. Add other ingredients and mix well.
To USE: pour or scoop out desired amount (this depends on personal preference and the size of
your tub), usually about 1/2 cup, add to bath under running water, swirling with your hand to mix.
Use all within 3 months. Store in cool dry place.
Also use powdered sea vegetables in facial packs, hair wraps, soaps, salt scrubs etc.
Mix ingredients well and store in a glass jar. Pour out 3 cups in a hot bath and soak for 20 minutes.
A guaranteed
Ingredients:
1 oz grapeseed oil
Few drops each of Chamomile, Bergamot, Grapefruit (or Sweet Grapefruit), and Lemon Verbena
A dried lemon verbena leaf
A few drops Vit E oil
This recipe can easily by increased to fill larger bottles.
Instructions:
Place optional dried lemon verbena leaf in bottle, add the grapeseed oil, the fragrances, and finally
the Vitamin E oil. If you have a fresh lemon verbena plant at home, wash the leaf, dried it
completely with a paper towel and then place it in the bottle. If you are generous with the Vitamin
E, it should last quite a long time. I would not make anything larger than 4oz bottles if you need to
have a long shelf life and remain chemical preservative-free.
Happy Soaking!
Works great for acne prone skin. Also helped clear up a facial rash!
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Mix ingredients well in bottle. Shake before each Use. Apply to face with cotton ball after cleansing.
This helped clear up black heads from our teenagers faces AND helped clear up an itchy rash from
our 10 year olds face.
1 T ground almonds
1 T colloidal oatmeal (coarse)
1 t honey
1 T buttermilk powder
Water
Instructions:
Use enough water to make a thick paste and massage the face in circular strokes.
Ingredients:
wetting agent:
5 tsp herbal astringent for dry skin
Instructions:
Stir all ingredients well to get rid of clumps & apply to face. Leave on for 5 minutes & rinse off with
warm water.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Mix dry ingredients together and keep in a glass container. For application, mix 2 T of the mixture
with the juice of 1 small lime and enough plain yogurt to form a thick paste. Apply to the face and
allow it to dry. Rinse with warm water. Use this facial once a week for acne prone, oily or blemished
skin.
Balancing Moisturizer
Submitted by Stephanie of Conway, AR
This is a simple facial oil that works wonderfully on my combination skin. I use it as a luxury body
and hair oil also.
Ingredients:
1 part jojoba
1 part avocado oil
1 part peach kernel oil
3 parts rice bran oil
Essential oil.
Instructions:
Combine ingredients and mix together. I mixed this in a 1/2 oz cobalt dropper bottle. I added 5
drops of rosewood to the 1/2 oz of oils for its balancing properties, but other EOs could be
substituted. I use just 2-3 drops of this on my face. I’ve also used it as a body and hair oil.
Choose the right clay for your skin type (see Library for information regarding clays). Choose a
wetting agent. While plain water will do just fine, you can also try wetting agents such as fruit
purees (strawberry puree will act like an alphahydroxy), cucumber puree (cools the skin), yogurt
(cools and softens the skin), milk (removes dead skin cells and softens the skin), honey (acts as an
anti bacterial), & rosewater or other floral waters ( a nice substitute for plain water). Make a thick
paste of the clay. You can also add citrus peel powders for astringency, rose petal powder for
fragrance, neem powder for anti bacterial action (especially useful for acne prone skin), colloidal
oatmeal for soothing the skin, and/or milk powders. Essential oils can be added and jojoba is a
good additive to help balance dry spots. Apply the mask to your skin and let it dry for 20 minutes.
Rinse well with warm water and pat dry. Repeat weekly.
Ingredients:
wetting agent:
5 tsp pre-made herbal astringent for dry skin
Instructions:
Stir all ingredients well to get rid of clumps & apply to face. Leave on for 5 minutes & rinse off with
warm water.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
* All skin types benefit from Geranium or Carrotseed Oil. Oily or sensitive skin benefits from
Lemon or Lavender. Mix all ingredients together and blend until it becomes paste-like. (Roughly 2
minutes)
From Nature With Love Page 77 http://www.FromNatureWithLove.com
Exfoliating Gentle Face Wash
Submitted by Sampurna of Cleveland, OH
Cleanser
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Mix all dry ingredients together. Store in glass jar or tin can. When ready to use, pour approx 1 T
into a glass bowl and mix with a little mineral water to form a smooth paste. Let the mixture sit for
1 - 5 minutes. If using liquid castille soap, add 1t castille soap to the mixture at this point. Then
blend well.
Wet hands, scoop up the mixture and gently rub hands to create a creamy foam. Massage onto
face & neck. (Massage, not rub). Then wash off with warm water! Follow with a spritz of cool
lavendar or rose water for an invigorating feeling.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Melt the glycerin soap base. Add honey and neem powder and then pour into your favorite mold.
No color or fragrance is required. After soap has set up in mold, just package. This soap works for
all skin types. The amount of honey and neem powder can be altered to suit your individual needs.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Melt and mix together sweet almond oil, vitamin E oil, coconut oil, kokum butter, beeswax and
emulsifying wax. Mix calendula infusion and borax, heat to boil. Cool slightly and add grapefruit
seed extract. Slowly add infusion mixture to oils, stirring continually. Transfer to blender and whip
cream. When cool enough add rose geranium essential oil and whip into cream. Package and
enjoy.
Facial Toner
Ingredients:
1/3 Cup witch hazel and 2/3 cup of your favorite floral water
Add 1 t - 1T of jojoba
Add 7 drops of lavender, geranium or rose oil
Instructions:
Mix dry ingredients and add hydrosol a little at a time until you get a paste. Apply to the skin in a
gentle circular motion and leave it to dry for about 10-20 minutes. Wash off with warm water. A
light oil such as camelina can be applied afterwards if the skin feels tight.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Mix herbs and clay together very well with a mortar and pestle. Store in an sterile glass jar. Use 1
Tbl. per application and wet with water or a tea infused with one of the above herbs.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Mix all ingredients together and evenly distribute into 6 - 4oz. Containers.
Wet 1/2 tsp. in palm of hand to use. (Water for oily skin. Milk/cream/yogurt for dry skin.) Massage
into face. Allow to sit a few minutes for maximum benefit. Rinse with warm, then cool water. Pat
dry.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Combine Dead Sea Mud and honey in a small dish and add essential oil. Apply to face and leave
on for at least 20 minutes, then rinse thoroughly. This is a very simple recipe that is excellent for
oily, acne-prone skin. Use at least once a week for clear, glowing skin.
Ingredients:
1 T liquid lecithin
2 T fractionated coconut, macadamia nut, flaxseed or other light vegetable oil
1 T virgin coconut oil
1 t rice bran oil
1/8 t borax
1/2 cup distilled water
1-2 drops neroli or rose essential oil (optional) or
1-2 drops any fragrance oil for scent (optional)
Instructions:
Mix together the lecithin, vegetable oil, coconut oil and rice bran oil.
Gently heat the lecithin and oils until the coconut oil melts. Heat the borax-water solution. You
could heat in the microwave (for 45 seconds on High) or in a water bath. Pour the heated solution
into the lecithin and oils. Stir until well mixed. You can use the blender.
Add essential oil, cool completely and pour into a clean container. You can adjust the consistency
by adding less or more water.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Place all of the ingredients in a blender and mix well. Apply to your face and allow to dry,
approximately 15 minutes. Rinse your face thoroughly with warm water and pat dry. It is suitable for
all skin types, but because it does contain alcohol it can be drying. So be sure to muisturize your
skin afterward. Any remaining mixture should be kept in the refrigerator.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Using a double boiler, melt beeswax, lanolin, and oils. Stir well. When melted, take off heat and add
essential oils, then water. Wisk until cool.
Mix all ingredients together using enough heavy cream to make a thick paste. Massage into the
skin in a circular motion and then rinse with warm water.
If you have dry skin and clay does not make a suitable skin treatment for you, consider a milk and
oatmeal pack. Milk helps to soften skin and remove dead skin cells while the oatmeal helps to
soothe the skin and relieve tight, itchy skin.
Combine equal parts milk powder and fine or coarse colloidal oatmeal (the coarse will exfoliate
better)
Other possible additives include powdered chamomile, comfrey or lavender and of course essential
oils (not added until ready to use). Carrot seed oil, geranium & lavender are all good choices. You
can also add a few drops of jojoba, vitamin E oil, camelina oil, carrot oil, or any other desired oil for
extra moisturizing.
This mix can be made into a paste with any wetting agent and applied to the skin with circular
strokes. Leave on for 20 minutes and rinse with warm water.
· Honey - antibacterial
· Milk - softens
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Make an infusion of the peppermint or sage leaves, and mix 1 part infusion to 1 part vinegar. Bottle
and store in the refrigerator. Use after cleansing.
Mix dry ingredients and add hydrosol a little at a time until you get a paste. Apply to the skin in a
gentle circular motion and leave it to dry for about 10-20 minutes. Wash off with warm water. A
light oil such as camelina can be applied afterwards if the skin feels tight.
Ingredients:
1 egg yolk
2 T. egg white
1 T. honey
1 t. rosewater
Instructions:
Mix all ingredients together. Apply thin layer to dry face. Leave on until dry or for about 15 minutes.
Wash off with warm water.
Removes dirt
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Place rosemary into a strainer or muslin bag and place it into a glass container. and the tea bags
and pour the water into it.Let it stand until it’s completely cool.Then add the witch hazel,lemon
juice and lavender oil. Store in the fridge. It may separate so shake before use.
This always gives my face a healthy glow.I try to do this mask at least 2 times a week.It is very
simple and very effective,and also it is easy to resize the recipe for your own needs.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Blend or crush the strawberry. Add honey and milk powder. Mix until it is a paste. Apply to your
face and let sit until dry. Rinse with cool water,pat dry. Enjoy the healthy glow and silky feel of your
skin!!
Ingredients:
1 T plain yogurt
1/4 of a ripe banana
1/4 t of vitamin E 1000 IU
Instructions:
Put ingredients in a bowl. Mash them together with a fork until it is a relatively smooth consistancy.
Pat onto face and let sit 10 min or until dry. Wash off with lukewarm water.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Bring water to a boil. Stir the seeds into the water and reduce heat. Simmer for about 10 minutes,
stirring constantly, until a gel-like lotion is formed. Strain through a fine strainer or cheesecloth into
a small bottle. Add essential oils and store in the refrigerator for up to 1 week. If desired, you can
add some pure aloe vera gel for its moisturizing properties. Fill the bottle with flax seed gel until
bottle is about 3/4 full, then fill to the top with pure aloe vera gel. Gel will not flake or make the hair
hard or crunchy. Safe to use everyday.
Hair Lotion
Submitted by Tiffany of Cartersville, GA
Ingredients:
2 oz olive oil or olive oil blend (mix with whatever oils you like best, such as virgin coconut, jojoba,
macadamia nut, etc.)
1-2 tbsp melted shea butter or mango butter
2 oz liquid lecithin
4 oz water
Favorite essential oil or fragrance oil, if desired
Instructions:
Combine all ingredients in a double boiler and warm until melted. Blend well and transfer to a
bottle. If mixture is too thin, add a little more lecithin. If it is too thick, add a little more water. Adjust
recipe depending on how much lotion you wish to make. Shake before each use.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Melt the oils and pour into a bottle. Use only a small amount at a time. I like to infuse my olive oil
with conditioning herbs like rosemary, nettle, and chamomile leaves for a special conditioning
treat. You can do this by putting the dry herbs in a big jar, then put the jar outside in sun and leave
it for a week. Be sure to shake it up everyday. Then strain oil through cheesecloth or a fine strainer
to remove herbs. Or, you can put the herbs in a large, plastic measuring cup, pour the oil over the
herbs and put the measuring cup inside a large pan filled with water. Simmer over low heat for
about and hour, then strain.
Hair Rinse
Submitted by Tiffany of Cartersville, GA
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Make an infusion of the herbs, steeping at least 30 minutes. Strain and add vinegar. Pour mixture
over hair, catch the run-off in a bowl and pour over hair repeatedly. You will get the benefits of the
herbs, while the vinegar seals the hair cuticle, making the hair soft, shiny, and less tangled. Use
after shampooing.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Mix herbs together in a bowl. Add water to herbs, cover and let steep at least 30 minutes. Pour
castile soap into a bottle. Strain herbs and funnel into soap. Add a few squirts of jojoba oil and
essential oils, if desired. Shake well before each use to mix the oil with the soap. Shampoo will be
very runny, but also very concentrated, so use only a little bit when shampooing.
**Note** Feel free to experiment with different herbs and essential oils for this recipe.
Loc Butter
Submitted by Lori of Kansas City, MO
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Melt ingredients together, pour in container and let cool. Good for hair and skin.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Steep the herbs in the boiling water for 20 minutes and then strain. Add the jojoba or virgin
coconut oil and the castille to the tea and stir well. Once cool, add the essential oils and bottle.
Add 10 drops grapefruit seed extract.
Rebatching is best done when soap is fresh (5-7 days old). Fresh soap hasn’t lost the water yet and
will be soft and easy to work with. If your soap is older, you can still rebatch it but because much of
the moisture has been lost, you will need to add a liquid to replace the lost moisture. If you are
starting with a vegetable based soap, it will melt better if you use milk (cows milk, goats milk,
buttermilk etc). For tallow based soaps, distilled water will work just fine.
• Liquid (distilled water or cold milk) approximately 9 oz per lb of soap; less or none if your soap
is very fresh. You can also try using a bit of rose water or other floral waters.
Use the grater to shred or grate your soap as finely as possible. Place in into the double boiler or
crock pot if you are using one of these. If you are going to use an electric oven, place the soap into
an oven proof pan that has a tight lid (or use foil). Now add the appropriate amount of liquid. If you
are rebatching a tallow soap, use distilled water and if you are rebatching a vegetable based soap
use ice cold milk. Remember that if your soap is very fresh, you may not need any but if you want,
you can pour in a thin layer of liquid just to keep the bottom from scorching. Stir the soap until it is
completely coated with liquid. The water in the double boiler should be touching the bottom of the
top pot and should be maintained at a steadily slow boil. The crock pot should be turned to the
lowest setting and the oven should be turned to 145F or 150F (if you know your oven tends to act
hotter than it should according to baking recipes use the lower temp and visa versa).
Give the soap a good stir and then cover the pot and allow it to heat up. If you are using a double
boiler, you will need to return to it very frequently about every 10 minutes. Remember to scrape
down the sides every time you return to your pot. (If you are using a crock pot or the oven, you can
check it every half hour or so.) After 2-3 checks, if the soap is still solid and it looks like it needs
more liquid, add some and stir. This stage takes about an hour or more. Once the soap starts to
smooth out, stop adding liquid or you’ll wind up with soup. Remember you only need enough
liquid to keep the soap moist like fresh soap. Keep checking to make sure the bottom is not
burning. If the soap is beginning to scorch in the double boiler, add some cold water to the bottom
pot of the double boiler to reduce the temperature. Eventually (somewhere between 1-2 hours),
Once the soap has cooled down somewhat, you can either pour or push (depending on how liquid
the soap is) it into a mold/molds or you can whip it with an egg beater to make floating soaps.
(Spoon the whipped soap into molds.) Cover the molds and place them in a warm place for 48
hours until the soap hardens. Un mold, cut if necessary and allow it to cure for 3 weeks.
Lavender/Chamomile Soap
Submitted by Connie of Tempe, AZ
Ingredients:
Instructions:
In double boiler, slowly melt soap with water. When it reaches a jelly-like consitence gently stir in
herbs, emu oil and essential oils. Carefully pour into prepared molds. Wait 24 hours and remove
from molds. Let cure for about 4 weeks. This is so gentle and relaxing I use it on my children.
Soft soap, with large fluffy suds, all for beautiful silky hair
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Melt soap and water in heat resistant glass bowl in a saucepan. When soap is stringy add the
remaining ingredients. Pour into prepared molds or hand mold. Enjoy!!
Wake-me-up Soap
Submitted by Cori of Chandler, AZ
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Grate the soap and mix with the safflower oil, coconut oil and water. Slowly heat this in a double
boiler over medium heat until the soap is completely mixed and has a stringy texture. Take off of
the heat and mix the peppermint oil, leaves and rosemary. Mix it well and put into the proper
molds. Makes about 2 large rectangular bars.
Ingredients:
18 oz canola oil
8 oz coconut oil
18 oz olive oil
12oz distilled water
6oz lye
1Tbsp apple pie spice
1Tbsp Tumeric
2Tbsp Apple FO
Instructions:
Make sure you know the safety precautions before making any soap. Preheat oven to 200 degrees.
Add lye to water and cool to 100 degrees. Melt oils. I melt my oils in the same pot that I later put in
the oven. Cool to 100 degrees. Mix oils and lye water together using a stick blender. At light trace
add spices then FO. Cover with a lid and put it in the oven for 1 1/2 hours. Scoop into the mold.
After 24 hrs I remove it from the mold and cut. I allow it several days to harden, then package. This
recipe was modified from Kathy Miller’s web site.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
OBSERVE ALL STANDARD SAFETY PROCEDURES. 1. Weigh lye and water. Mix and set aside. 2.
Weigh and melt hard oils in microwave. Add to pre-warmed crock. 3. Weigh and add liquid oils to
crock. 4. Add lye/water to crock oils while stirring gently. 5. Bring to trace alternating between
whisk and stick blender. 6. Cover and cook until done. Glop into mold. 7. Unmold and cut when
cool.
Ingredients:
1 tsp. beeswax
1 tsp. apricot kernel oil
1 tsp. calendula oil
3-4 drops of essential oil of orange
Mica for coloring or beet root infused oil (optional)
Instructions:
Add apricot kernel oil and calendula oil, stirring constantly. Remove from heat, add FDA approved
mica or beet root infused oil if desired for color. When partially cooled, add essential oil of orange.
Pour into lip balm jars or tubes. This is the best lip gloss......good luck!
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Melt all the ingredients and mix together. Makes about 24 tubes.
Ingredients:
1 teaspoon beeswax
2 teaspoons coconut oil
1 vitamin E capsule
2-3 drops flavor oil
Instructions:
Melt beeswax coconut, and vitamin E together. Then add your flavor oil. Place in a tube or pot.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
In a glass measuring cup melt beeswax in the microwave, add the oils (you may need to put in
back in the microwave for a few seconds more). Stir in the bubble gum flavored oil and mica. Let it
cool for about 5 mins. Give it more more quick stir and pour into lip gloss pots.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Put oil, cocoa butter and beeswax into a glass jar. Place jar in pan of boiling water over medium
heat. Stir occasionally and heat until all are melted. Remove from heat and add honey, flavor oil
and vitamin E oil. Mix well and pour into containers. Makes approx 12-13 1/4 oz containers.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Melt everything except essential oils in a double boiler. Remove from heat. Let cool slightly before
adding essential oils. Pour into lip balm tin, cap tightly and let cool.
(I like this in a small lip balm tin that I keep in my front pants pocket. Body heat softens the lip
balm slightly, but is still good when at room temperature. I’m not sure, but it may be too soft in a
lip balm tube that’s kept in the front pants pocket. In this case, a little more beeswax may help.)
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Stir very well. Stir some more. If you do not stir enough, the lip balm will be lumpy. Stir in Essential
oils. Continue to stir until it cools a good bit. Place in containers and allow to finish cooling. Label
and store in a cool dry place. Use as often as needed.
Ingredients:
1 teaspoon beeswax
A few drops flavor oil
1/4 teaspoon jojoba oil
1 teaspoon shea butter
Instructions:
Melt 1 tsp. beeswax and 1 tsp.shea butter in a double boiler. (This is only to liquify to make it easier
to fully blend all ingredients.) Add 1/4 tsp. jojoba oil and a few drops of your favorite flavor oil to the
mixture. Mix well and pour into the container you want to store your balm in. Allow to harden at
room temperature or in refrigerator.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Melt all oils together in a double boiler (except peppermint). Stir in peppermint EO & pour into lip
balm containers. Let cool.
Ingredients:
2 oz hazelnut oil
1 oz hemp seed oil
.75 oz beeswax
.5 oz shea butter
Few drops of flavor oil or peppermint essential oil if desired
Instructions:
Heat everything except essential oil to 150. Cool slightly, add essential oil. Pour into tubes or pots.
Ingredients:
3T coconut oil
1T castor oil
1t beeswax
1T sunflower oil
1T hempseed oil
1T honey
1-2 drops of your favorite essential or fragrance oil
Instructions:
Melt the wax and coconut oil together, add honey, stirring constantly. Add sunflower oil, as mix
thickens add hempseed oil and essential oil. Stir until thick. Store in small containers.
Ingredients:
2 t olive oil
1/2 t beeswax
1/2 t cocoa butter
1/2 t honey
3 drops orange essential oil
1 vitamin E capsule
Instructions:
Heat the oil-cocoa butter-beeswax mixture in the water bath over medium heat until beeswax is
melted, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat and stir in the honey and essential oil. Pinch open
the vitamin E capsule and squeeze the contents into the mixture. Stir well. Pour the mixture into
containers.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Put the 4 ounces of oil in 8 oz glass cup, add beeswax & butter & melt in microwave (or in double
boiler). Remove from heat & stir with stainless spoon. Add EO or FO a little at a time. Pour into lip
balm containers.(Also can add Vit. E capsule for extra nourishment.)
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Melt beeswax, shea butter, and oils together in a double boiler. Remove from heat. When mixture
has cooled down a bit, add essential oil and the vitamin E into the mixture. Stir and pour into lip
balm containers. Allow to solidify. This should be hard enough to use in lip balm tubes. If it is too
hard, add a little more jojoba or sweet almond oil. Makes about 5 tubes.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Melt everything but the flavor oil (you can use the microwave; just be careful it doesn’t get too hot).
Add in flavor oil and lipstick piece or mica. Stir well. This works best in tubes and is a nice,
moisturizing lip balm that feels SO smooth on.
A good basic lotion that makes 8 oz. and can be used year-round.
Ingredients:
1 oz Glycerin
1 oz Stearic Acid
1 oz Emulsifying Wax
2 oz Sweet Almond or Jojoba Oil
3 oz distilled water
1/2 t grapefruit seed extract
1/2 t fragrance oil (opt)
Instructions:
Measure out first 5 ingredients and put into a 2 cup glass measuring cup. Microwave 2 1/2 minutes
or until solid ingredients are melted. Blend with stick blender until fully blended. Add preservative
and fragrance oil and blend until incorporated. Pour into an 8 oz container and seal tightly. Shake
periodically until cool and enjoy!
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Dissolve borax in the water. Melt beeswax and sweet almond oil in a double boiler stirring
occasionally. Bring this mixture almost to boiling. Remove the mixture from the heat. Slowly add
the borax-water mixture to it. Allow the lotion to cool completely while whisking.
Ingredients:
4 oz. Beeswax
3 oz. Cocoa Butter
1/4 oz. of each of the following: Shea Butter, Avacado oil, Lanolin, orange essential oil, tea tree oil,
jojoba oil
Instructions:
Melt all ingredients together in a double boiler. Spoon into 3 oz molds- I use honeycomb with the
bee on it. Place in freezer until set up. Wrap in plastic wrap, for decoration purpose you can place
in 4 inch clay or plastic plant tray and tie raffia bow around it.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Combine all ingredients except GSE in a heat safe container. Melt in hot water bath, in double
boiler, until water turns milky and all ingredients are melted. Remove from heat, blend with blender
until starts to thicken. Add GSE, color and scent. Blend again to ensure even distribution of scent.
Pour into clean containers.
Ingredients:
Coconut Oil 2 oz
Glycerin 4.5 oz
Emulifying Wax 3 oz
Water 38 oz (room temp)
Sesame Oil 12 oz
Cocoa Butter 2.5 oz
Citric Acid 1 tsp
GSE 2 oz
Vitamin E 5 capsules
Instructions:
Melt oils, cocoa butter and wax in double boiler over medium heat. Add citric acid. Remove from
heat and place in large mixing bowl. With stick blender in motion slowly add water until well
blended. Add glycerin and vitamin E. Cool slightly and add GSE. Add fragrance if desired. Put in
containers.
Ingredients:
Water Phase:
Distilled Water 12.8 oz
Baking Soda 0.1 oz
Corn Starch 0.05 oz
Oil Phase
Grapeseed Oil 2 oz
Manog Butter 0.15 oz
Shea Butter 0.15 oz
Stearic Acid 0.3 oz
Citric Acid 0.1 oz
Soy Letchin 0.1 oz
E-Wax 0.8 oz
Phenonip(or other appropriate preservative) 0.1 oz
Instructions:
Combine and heat oil phase until fully incorporates. Heat water phase and dissolve baking soda
and cornstarch completely. Cool both phases slightly. While blending (stick blender is best)the oils,
SLOWLY add the water phase. Keep blending. As cream cools, it becomes VERY thick. If using
phenonip, you can add when mixture is still hot. Check with manufacturer for other preservatives.
When COMPLETELY cool, transfer to jars. I scent “as I go” by heating the cream slightly, then
adding scent and/or color. This will depend on your preservative. Also, you can put cream into a zip
bag, add color/scent, close and squish until mixed. Cut corner from bag and “pipe” into
containers.
Ingredients:
3 tbs glycerin
3 tbs rose or zdravetz hydrosol
1 tbs rice bran oil
1 tbs meadowfoam oil
1 tbs jojoba oil
10 drops Grapefruit seed extract
A few drops FD & C Red #33 Lake
Instructions:
Put all ingredients in a sterilized 4 oz. jar. Shake vigorously before each use.
Eczema Soother
Submitted by Anna-maria of Sarasota, FL
Ingredients:
4 oz jojoba oil
20 drops evening primrose oil
12 drops lavender essential oil
12 drops roman camomile essential oil
Instructions:
Combine all ingredients. Use as a daily lubricant on the skin. This has worked WONDERS on my
little boy (21 months) who suffers with a bad case of eczema. It has been the only remedy that has
worked for him. It stops him from breaking out with the red, itchy patches and keeps his VERY dry
skin nicely lubricated. His skin will sometimes still get irritated when he comes in contact with an
allergen. As soon as I see it starting to get red and inflamed, I rub on the oil and it stops it from
getting any worse. By the next day, his skin is back to normal.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
In a microwave-safe bowl, heat almond and apricot kernel oils, e-wax and stearic until melted. Stir
in grapeseed oil. In a separate bowl, mix water and citric acid and heat in microwave. Add oil
mixture to water mixture and blend with a stick blender to ensure complete emulsification. Allow to
cool several minutes. Add vitamin E, glycerin and preservative and mix well. Fragrance as desired. I
fragrance mine by the bottle in lieu of a whole batch. You may use any combination of light oils to
make 3 ounces. Aloe vera may be substituted for a portion of the water and added after heating
the water and citric acid.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Melt oils and waxes together in a double boiler. Mix water, borax, baking soda and aloe vera gel.
Heat in microwave for two min. Slowly drizzle oils into water mixture and use a hand blender until
thick. Stir in 15 drops Neroli oil and 5 drops peppermint.
Thick creamy lotion, can also be used as a hand cream when made w/ less water or more stearic
acid, great for dry, itchy, or sensitive irritated skin, also great for reducing stretch marks when
made w/ EMU Oil
Ingredients:
I chose these essential oils for their specific medicinal purposes that are great for the skin. The
coconut fragrance oil balances the essential oil blend and tones it down yet still giving the
Patchouli the middle note while also toning down the coconut fragrance and leaving it as the base
note.
Instructions:
Heat the oils, butters, and waxes on low until everything has melted, (I use a double boiler so you
can’t burn it or boil it), then cool to about 140 degrees. Heat the aloe water and rose water mixture
to about 140 degrees as well. Put the oils into a large mixing bowl and start mixing on slow while
slowly adding the water mixture until all water is added, then add EO’s & FO’s and GSE and blend
some more at a higher speed, you want to keep blending until mixture is about body temp (around
97 to 98 degrees). Pour into jars or pump lotion bottles and continue to shake periodically until the
mixture becomes creamy and thick, this will prevent any seperation of the oils and water.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Mix all of the ingredients except the rose hydrosol. When this is mixed thoroughly, slowly add the
rose hydrosol to the desired consistency. Apply to face and allow to dry for 15 min. Wash face with
mild soap and water. Pat dry. The neem powder is especially good for acne prone skin.
Body Clay
Submitted by Tracy of Montreal, QC
For all skin type, even can be used for facial mask
Ingredients:
Instructions:
1. Boil water in a stainless steel pot, put the dry lavender and rose buds in, close the lid, simmer for
10 mins. Cool it and filter the water.
2. Put the honey, sour cream, sweet almond oil into the cooled infusion, blend it well and add the
clay slowly until it’s smooth and pasty.
3. Before use, add 3 drops of Orange (or other) Essential Oil to scent it.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Powder dry ingredents well. Put a few tablespoons of the mix in a small bowl. Add wetting agent to
make a paste. Apply to face and allow to dry for ten to twenty minutes. Rinse with warm water.
Store remaining mixture in airtight container. Use once or twice a week. For super sensitive skin,
herbs can be left out or lessened.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
While soap base is melting, combine oils, beeswax and butters and melt separate from soap base.
Combine soap base and oil/butter mixture and stir constantly until cooled. Add fragrance and
color. Pour into molds and allow to cool. Package as desired
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Melt the soap base in a double boiler. Add all the other ingredients and stir well. Pour into molds
and let it sit for 3 hours Put molds in freezer for 5 minutes and pop them out.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Melt down the soap base and scent. Pour ½ of your scented base into a glass-measuring cup and
color as desired with the green mica. When your base cools to about 120 degrees, you are ready
to pour. Take the colored base and the white base and begin to pour them on opposite sides of the
mold, making one pass to create an “x” pattern. When you are finished pouring, take a spoon or
pop stick and create a slight swirling motion in the soap. If you swirl it too much you will get a solid
color. Allow to cool and package as desired.
Earth Tones
Submitted by Carrie of Rochester, NY
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Combine essential oils and 1/2 tsp. cinnamon in glass mixing bottle, set aside. Cut melt & pour
soap into 1 inch cubes, place into top of double boiler. Heat over low-medium heat until beginning
to melt. Sprinkle cinnamon evenly over soap, stirring gently, being careful to avoid over stirring.
Continue melting until soap is completely melted, remove from heat and immediately add
sunflower oil, and essential oil blend, stirring gently. Pour into prepared molds. Let set for 5-6 hours
or overnight, gently remove soap from molds, cut into slices if necessary, and store in a cool, dry,
dark place for at least 1 week, flipping bars daily to prevent warping. Should make an amber
colored soap with a darker layer where the cinnamon settles, like an amber sunset.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Cut up the Melt and pour soap into small chunks and gently melt in the microwave or in a double-
boiler. Add the clay, citrus powders and the jojoba oil and stir thoroughly. Add essential oils and stir
again. Pour into molds. Makes about 2-3 bars. The clay and citus powders draw off the oils in your
face; the essential oils are antibacterial. If you have only slightly oily skin, you may want to use a
light moisturizer afterwards.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Melt beeswax and MP base over a double boiler. Add the milk, vitamin E, honey, and extra oil and
stir. Remove from heat and cool slightly before adding the vanilla fragrance oil. Pour into molds
and unmold when hard.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Combine all ingredients except the M&P soap in a small bowl and mix well. The mixture will be
thick. Add mix to melted soap base and stir gently until thoroughly blended. Pour into molds. I do
not add any coloring to this soap since it is for healing; it will be naturally brown due to the honey. I
have used both a white and clear soap base with excellent results.
Instructions:
Hold the slab of violet base in your hand and with a sharp knife, cut criss cross cuts 1/8 of an inch
deep into the 1" width of the slab. When you have covered the surface with cuts, slice down
through the slab slicing off the tiny irregular shaped pieces. Crumble with your hand and chop up
into smaller pieces if necessary. Keep repeating this process until you have about 1 cup of tiny
crystal-like pieces of soap.
Melt some clear base (don’t make it so hot that you can’t touch it) and with your hands firmly pack
the crystals into a ball using some of the clear melted base as “glue” to help hold it together. You
may not need any if the soap is sticky enough. When you have packed a firm ball, start dipping it
into the clear base and use you hands to mold and firm the clear soap around the ball. The soap
will cool quickly and most of it will stick to your hands as you work. Just peel the soap off your
hands and place it back into the pan of melted soap. Remelt if the base cools too much. Keep
dipping and molding. Do this until you have a good solid layer holding the crystals together. Melt
some opaque base and dip the ball into the opaque white base until you have a thin layer of white.
Then color some melted clear base. Start dipping your ball into the colored base until you have a
good solid color. Then do another color and then maybe some more white and then more color
and then more white until your geode starts to approach a good 4-5 inches across. Keep the white
layers thin but make the colored layers about 1/8 -3/8 inch thick. Then color some of your base
with an earthy grayish color to start forming the outer layer. Dip your geode until you have a good
layer of “rock” color. Mix together some “earthy” micas (gold, blue violet, topaz, bronze). Dip your
geode in some melted base and start throwing on some micas and you use your fingers to smooth
the mica into the soft base. Keep working the mica into the outer layer. When you’re satisfied with
the last layer of your geode, put it down and do some major cleaning up! Get some rest and 48
hours later, you will be ready to take a sharp non-serrated knife to your geode. Use one motion to
slice through. It might help to warm the knife slightly over a fire but if you make it too hot, it tends
to melt the various colors all over each other so resist the urge to go this route. You will be amazed
at your geode!
Ingredients:
Per bar:
3-4 oz opaque coconut M&P soap
1 tsp kokum butter
2-3 drops peppermint essential oil
1 scant drop red or pink food coloring (optional)
Pumice powder
Instructions:
Melt soap and butter over a double boiler. Add peppermint oil and coloring and stir gently to
incorporate. Pour a tiny amount of soap into the bottom of the mold. Carefully sprinkle a generous
coating of pumice powder onto the bottom of the mold (I like about 1/4 inch thick). Finish filling
the mold the rest of the way.
I like this because you can lather up your feet with the “smooth” side, then use the pumice side to
get the dead skin off! :)
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Cut the MP into chunks and heat on a double boiler. Add honey and vitamin E. Let your base cool
approx. 5-10 min or until it starts to form a skin on top, stir the skin back into the the base. When
the base starts to thicken slightly add your fragrance and oatmeal. You want your oatmeal to be
suspended in your base. Pour into molds. I use a loaf pan. Let it sit and harden for several hours
and unmold. Slice and let it sit for 24hr and wrap with plastic wrap.
Use these oil blends as your basis for body oils, breams, lotions, lip balms, body butters or add to
bath bombs, salt scrubs or even as a soap superfatting blend.
Use these oil blends as your basis for body oils, breams, lotions, lip balms, body butters or add to
bath bombs, salt scrubs or even as a soap superfatting blend.
Use these oil blends as your basis for body oils, breams, lotions, lip balms, body butters or add to
bath bombs, salt scrubs or even as a soap superfatting blend.
Use these oil blends as your basis for body oils, breams, lotions, lip balms, body butters or add to
bath bombs, salt scrubs or even as a soap superfatting blend.
Use these oil blends as your basis for body oils, breams, lotions, lip balms, body butters or add to
bath bombs, salt scrubs or even as a soap superfatting blend.
Use these oil blends as your basis for body oils, breams, lotions, lip balms, body butters or add to
bath bombs, salt scrubs or even as a soap superfatting blend.
Use these oil blends as your basis for body oils, breams, lotions, lip balms, body butters or add to
bath bombs, salt scrubs or even as a soap superfatting blend.
Use these oil blends as your basis for body oils, breams, lotions, lip balms, body butters or add to
bath bombs, salt scrubs or even as a soap superfatting blend.
Use these oil blends as your basis for body oils, breams, lotions, lip balms, body butters or add to
bath bombs, salt scrubs or even as a soap superfatting blend.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Place herbs in glass bowl over simmering water (or double broiler), cover with oil. Warm the oil
stirring often for about 2 - 3 hours. Strain. Place herbs back in bowl over steaming water and add
enough beeswax to create the desired consistancy. Pour into lip balm jars.
Darlene’s Ointment #1
Submitted by Darlene of Penna. Furnace, PA
Easy to make basic ointment. I made this is a small batch as an experiment and loved it. It could
be made in larger quantities to suite your needs.
Ingredients:
Note: I purchase my cocoa butter in chunks and use the grater blade in a food processor to grate
it. I store the grated cocoa butter in a tightly sealed glass jar. Grating the cocoa butter ahead of
time makes it very easy to use when needed.
Instructions:
While waiting for the water to heat in the double boiler, partially submerge the sealed bottle of
coconut oil in hot water in the sink to liquify it. When the double boiler is ready, melt the beeswax
pellets and grated cocoa butter. Remove from heat and add all of the oils. I use a clean wooden
chopstick to stir everything together. Let cool slightly. Stir in the essential oils. Pour into a clean
glass jar and seal tightly. Label the jar with the ingredients and date it was made. ENJOY!
Ingredients:
10 drops geranium
15 drops lavender
5 drops german chamomile
3 drops cypress
4 oz almond oil
Instructions:
Ingredients:
1 cup vodka
2 tsp dried yarrow
1 tbsp. dried lavender
1 tbsp sage leaves
1 dried bay leaf
1 tsp. whole cloves
Instructions:
Mix everything together in a glass jar and store in a dark sry spot for 2-3 weeks. Strain and rebottle.
Splash on!
Alluring
Submitted by Kathy of Lansford, PA
Ingredients:
Essential Oils:
7 drops Sandalwood
7 drops Patchouli
3 drops Italian Neroli
1 drop Jasmine Absolute (India)
1 drop Jasmine Absolute (Egypt)
Base:
10ml Everclear or high-proof (100+) vodka
Instructions:
To a 1/2 ounce (15ml) amber glass bottle, add Essential Oils one at a time. Roll the bottle between
your palms gently and allow to settle for a day or two. Add alcohol (vodka), and allow blend to age
for at least 2-3 weeks before use. Shake periodically to disperse oils. This blend can be further
diluted in distilled water and used as a spritzer. Exquisite aroma.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Pour vodka into sterile glass bottle. Add bergamot, sweet orange, lime and rosewood oil. Shake
well, set aside for one week. Can apply to skin like a splash, or put in an atomizer.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Mix all oils together. Add vodka. Shake to blend. Let mellow a few days. Shake to use.
Ingredients:
1/2 oz glycerine
10 drops of vitamin E
3 oz. hydrosol of your choice
1/2 teaspoon of essential or fragrance oil
Instructions:
Combine all in a 4 oz plastic spray bottle. Shake well, spray over skin to retain moisture and add
fragrance!!
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Put bees wax or hydrogenated jojoba and coconut oil into a non-reactive pan and heat on low until
wax melts into the oil. Test the consistency by sticking a cold spoon into the mix. If it is too hard or
soft when it cools on the spoon, add wax or oil. Stir and let cool until you can touch the mixture,
but before it starts to harden. Stir in fragrance oil to desired strength. Stir again and pour into
containers. If desired take lilac flowers and place them into the mix before it hardens over, they
look the best when they are barely covered. I recommend using a toothpick or tweezers to place
them. Another good way is to make a batch and fill the containers 2/3 full, let it harden, put the
flowers on top and spoon another batch on top of them. This recipe can be used with other scents
also.
Instructions:
Allow bayleaf or oil to remain in gel and age for approx. 2-3 days. Then add remaining ingredients
and mix well. Put into squeeze bottle or pump bottle for easier dispensing.
Happiness
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Mix with your favorite base oil (I use jojoba oil) about 1 to 2 oz. Shake well before each use. Store in
glass bottle.
Serenity
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Mix with your favorite base oil (I use jojoba), and make sure to shake before each use. Store in
glass bottles.
Decide on a color scheme. It can be very natural and earthy looking or very brilliant. It can be
made with 2 colors or many colors. It can be simple white and gold. Or, if you have a fragrance in
mind, you may want to pick colors that seem to go with the fragrance. For example, vanilla â•“ you
immediately think of whites and natural colors not bright orange. Or Holiday Spice, reminds you of
warm reds, oranges, greens and browns perhaps but not navy blue.
Once you’ve decided on your colors, you want to decide which color or colors will be most
predominant. Pick a botanical or a few botanicals in that color. It helps to pick a variety of sizes or
textures. For instance, if you want the base color to be white, you can choose white globe
amaranths and white angel wings which are different in size, shape and texture.
Then start choosing botanicals and spices and dried fruits from your other color groups.
Remember to pick various shapes and sizes. For instance, if you are choosing browns, you will
want to choose from a variety of cones, cinnamon sticks, nuts, pods etc. You may wish to add a
highlight to your mix such as gold, or white or black or any other contrasting color. Choose a
botanical that is bold and large like pomegranates or orange slices or gold amra nuts. You will only
need a few pieces of this item.
Choose an appropriate fragrance (if you started with a fragrance in mind you are ready to start
mixing).
Putting it together:
Place your base color botanical in a large mixing container or bucket. If you are using more than
one botanical for the predominant color, combine them one at a time, cup by cup, until you are
pleased with the overall texture. Make a note of how many cups of each botanical you used so you
can adjust the proportions as you go and be able to reproduce the mix again later.
Start adding the botanicals from your other color groups one at a time making sure to record how
many cups of each you used. Do not add the highlight botanical pieces yet ( you will want to add
these after you have packaged your potpourri so that they stand out). If it seems like you base color
got overwhelmed by the colors, go back and add more of the base color botanicals to bring it back
in balance. Once you like the proportions of your botanicals you are ready to add the fragrance.
The easiest easy way to add scent to the botanicals is to use a spray bottle and to mix the
botanicals as you spray them with essential or fragrance oil.
Allow the oil to soak in. Mix well without crushing the botanicals making sure that there are no
pools of oil anywhere. Now you are ready to package your potpourri.
Package your potpourri in cello bags, clear acetate boxes, glass apothecary jars or anything else
that will show off the blend. Cello bags are a nice inexpensive way to package potpourri. A wide
ribbon in one of your colors can be used to tie off the bag. Cardboard boxes with clear acetate
Citrus Potpourri
Submitted by Kimberly of Malaga, NJ
Ingredients:
3 Limes
3 Lemons
2 Oranges or Tangerines
Orange,lemon,lime or patchouli fragrance oil
Orange Cedarchips, Albezzia leaves, Birch cones, Lily Petals, Orange & Light Green Star Flowers,
Natural Angel Wings and any other botanical you like
Instructions:
1. Slice all the fruit into thin slices. 2. To dry the fruit out, you can either use a food dehydrator or
place them on a cookie sheet lined with wax paper and place it in the oven on very very low heat.
I’ve found that the dehydrator works the best. You can place the fruit in there and just let it go,
without tying up your oven.(food dehydrators can be bought at your local wal-mart. I got mine for
$20) 3. Dry it out until it is a light brown color, and has almost no smell to it. (If using a food
dehydrator, this will take a few days. Times vary for ovens) 4. Place all the dried fruit and the
botanicals into 2 large sandwich plastic bags. Add about 5-10 drops of your prefered fragrance. 5.
Close the bags with a twist tie, and put it in a dark area for 2 weeks. Remember to shake the bag
up every couple of days. 6.After the two weeks is up, open the bag. If you want a stronger smell,
and some more fragrance oil and repeat the last step
Fresh Pear
Submitted by Michele of Jenison, MI
Ingredients:
1/4 C. Oakmoss
1/2 C. Ginger Slices
1/4 C. Sunflower Petals
5 Mango Pods
1/2 C. White Angel Wings
1/4 C. Rose Petals
1/4 C. Albezzia Leaves
1/4 C Starflower Light Green
2 tsp. Sun Ripened Pear FO
Instructions:
In glass jar, layer all ingredients with Mango Pods and Oakmoss on top. Add FO to oakmoss and
Arti Pods. Allow to sit a minute and then toss together. Let rest 2 weeks in dark spot. Check scent.
Add more FO if desired. Allow to sit another 2 weeks. Package.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
In glass jar, layer Orchids, Milo Berries, and then Oak Moss on top. Add FO to oakmoss and allow
it to sit a minute. Toss together, cap the jar and let sit, in the dark, for two weeks. Open the jar. Re-
scent if necessary (if you prefer a stronger scent), and allow to sit another week. Add the Angel
Wings and larkspur. Toss all together and let sit another week. Package.
Mardi Gras
Submitted by Michele of Jenison, MI
Ingredients:
1/4 C. ea.:
Red Milo Berries
Rhododendron Leaves
Purple Angel Wings
Red Velvet Flowers
Sunflower Petals
Bleached Polbosa
Orange Peel Ribbons
Pink Angel Wings
Gold Curly Pods
Burgundy Hibiscus Flowers
Instructions:
In glass jar, layer all ingredients BUT angel wings, placing polbosa on top. Add FO, let sit a minute,
toss all together. Cap jar and let rest 2 weeks in a dark place. Check scent. Add more FO to
polbosa if desired. Let sit 2 more weeks. Package.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
In glass jar, layer all ingredients, except angel wings and Larkspur, with oakmoss on top. Add FO
blend to oakmoss and let sit a minute. Toss all, cap jar, and let rest in dark place for two weeks.
Check scent. Add more FO to oakmoss if desired and toss. Let rest another 2 weeks, adding angel
wings and larkspur when FO has been absorbed by other ingredients. Package.
Patchouli Potpourri
Submitted by Michele of Jenison, MI
2 C. Woody Blend
Ingredients:
Instructions:
In glass jar, layer all ingredients with oakmoss and mushroom on top. Add FO to oakmoss and
mushroom and let sit a minute. Toss everything together, cap the jar, and let rest 2 weeks in a dark
place. Check scent. If more is desired, add to oakmoss and mushroom. Toss, and store another 2
weeks in the dark. Package.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
In glass jar, layer all ingredients with oakmoss on top. Add FO and let sit a minute. toss everything,
cap jar, and let sit a couple weeks in dark place. Check scent. Add more FO to oakmoss if desired.
Let sit another 2 weeks. Package.
Romance
Submitted by Michele of Jenison, MI
Ingredients:
Instructions:
In glass jar, layer Leaves, Hibiscus Flowers, Rose Petals, Buds, Milo Berries, and Oak Moss on top.
Add FO to oakmoss and allow to sit a minute. Toss together, cap jar, and let rest in the dark for two
weeks. Check scent and add FO if stronger scent is desired. Let sit another week. When scent is
satisfactory, add Pink and Purple Angel Wings, and Purple Larkspur. Toss and let sit another week.
Package.
2-1/2 C. of Sunshine
Ingredients:
1/4 C. Oakmoss
1/2 C. Bleached Polbosa
1/2 C. Yellow Sunflower Petals
1/8 C. Bay Leaves
1/4 C. Orange Peel Ribbons
1/4 C. Black Eyed Susans
1/2 C. Gold Curly Pods
1/8 C. Rose Leaves
Instructions:
In glass jar, layer all ingredients, oakmoss on top. Add FO to oakmoss and let sit a minute. Toss all
together, cap jar, and let rest in dark place for 2 weeks. Check scent. Add more FO to oakmoss if
desired, and let sit another 2 weeks. Package.
Vanilla Bay
Submitted by Michele of Jenison, MI
2 C. Woody Blend
Ingredients:
Instructions:
In glass jar,layer all ingredients with oakmoss, pine cones, and mushrooms on top. Add FO to top
ingredients and let sit a minute. Toss all, cap jar, and let sit 2 weeks in the dark. Check scent. If
stronger scent desired, add more to mushrooms, oakmoss, and pinecones. Let sit another 2
weeks. Package.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
You will need 2 ceramic or glass bowls, a stainless steel spoon, and a sterilized 8-oz. jar. 1) Cut the
aloe leaves in half lengthwise and scoop out the clear gel into a bowl. Mix in the honey and
essential oils. 2) Place the almonds and oatmeal into the second bowl. Stir in the liquid, adding a
little distilled water as needed to make a thick paste. 3) Makes enough for two applications. Store
in the refigerator.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
1) In a double boiler melt the soap. 2) Once thoroughly melted, add the aloe vera gel and safflower
oil. 3) Remove from heat and stir in the floral water, a dropper of sandalwood oil and two droppers
of orange essential oil. 4) Mix thoroughly and then stir in the ground apricot kernel. 5) Stiring
frequently, allow the mixture to cool. Add more essential oil and floral water until the desired scent
and consistency is achieved. Typically the scrub is slightly more thin than creamy peanut butter. 6)
Scrape the scrub into glass containers and seal for a day or two. The ingredients will blend more
thoroughly and fragrance will stablilize into a nutty, woody and vanilla scent. 7) Instructions for use:
place a small dab in the palm of your hand, add water and rub into a lathery paste. Massage the
lather onto face or other areas and rinse with warm water. The gentle glycerine soap cleanses, the
aloe heals, safflower oil moisturizes and apricot kernel exfoliates, leaving the skin restored after
each use.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
First melt the beeswax, castor oil, and apricot kernel oil together. Mix well. Remove from heat. Add
sea salt and ground almonds. Finally, stir in the baby shampoo and there you have it.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Mix together all ingredients and pour into a glass jar or container. Stone in a cool, dry place. This
mixture’s messy, so apply to damp skin while in the shower.
Made with everyday ingredients...it can be easily modified to suit your skin type
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Put all ingredients in food processor and process until fine. Add fragrance/essential oils drop by
drop while processing. To Use: place 1 - 2 Tbsp of mixture in palm and wet (water/hydrosol/floral
water) until paste-like. Gently, massage into skin and rinse well. Note: I use this on my skin daily
and modify as needed. Other additives could be: powdered lemon or orange peel, powdered
lavender buds, chamomile, calendula etc.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Mix all together. Give it a stir each time you use it. Keeps well.
Clears the skin of dead cells and toxins while soaking up minerals and leaving a healthy glow.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
In a canning jar(wide mouth) mix salts well, then add baking soda and borax and mix again. Add
essential oils to the carrier oil before mixing with salts mixture. Add oils to salts and mix and store.
Before bathing or showering, use ample amount and rub viggorously in circular motion. Set into a
nice herb bath and soak for 20 minutes, or rinse off in the shower. Either way it will leave your skin
clean and soft and give you a subtle fragrence that will enhance your mood. Enjoy
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Heat melted glycerin soap and liquid soap until warmed and stir in the mica until well blended. Add
oil and fragrance oil and blend thoroughly until emulsified. Add salt and stir well to mix completely.
That’s it! I was VERY frustrated by salt scrubs/salt glow recipes that dripped all over and were an
oily mess. This type of salt scrub firms up enough to scoop out what’s needed and it doesn’t drip
all over the place! And best of all it leaves the skin so soft and clean! Enjoy! Diane :-) South Shore
Soapworks
1 mashed kiwi
2 tablespoons rose petal powder, orange peel powder or lemon peel powder
1 teaspoon honey
Mix all ingredients together using enough heavy cream to make a thick paste. Massage into the
skin using a circular motion and then rinse with warm water.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Grind and sift all ingredients except oils a few times until powdery, then add oils and stir well. Store
in a jar. To use- add a small amount of water added to a tsp or so of scrub!
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Combine brown sugar and oil until it reaches a paste like consistency. Than add vitamin e and
fragrance, package as desired.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Melt glycerin soap base in a double boiler. Add liquid soap & oils. Remove from heat. Stir in salt,
essential oils, aloe, and color (mix powder with a little oil before you mix it in). By this time, the
mixture should be thick and goupy but still warm. Plop into a glass or plastic container and let cool
(or you can use immediately as long as it’s thick to your liking).
Exfoliate dead skin cells and give the skin a smooth texture
Ingredients:
Instructions:
1)In a blender, reduce the lentils to a coarse powder. Add the rolled oats and process again to
make powder; then add the oils and process again. Blend in water by the teaspoonful until the
mixture becomes a thick paste. 2) Spoon the miture into a bowl. Massage the scrub all over the
body before a shower or bath, paying paticular attention to dry areas. Makes enough for one
application.
1 t T50
1/2 - 1 tsp orange and cinnamon Fragrance oil or apple spice Fragrance oil or any other spice
scent FO of your choice.
Mix the dry ingredients together. Mix the oils and the fragrance oil together. Combine the oils and
dry ingredients and package in a suitable jar type container. To use, scoop out and massage into
the skin.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Pour & mix salt and corn meal in a large bowl. Mix in colorant & soapnut if using. For summer I
use yellow, coral, or other “sunshiney” colors. I also add in a teeny bit of cosmetic grade glitter.
Add EO or FO’s and let sit overnight with a paper towel covering it to “fix” the scent.
I prefer light oils like grapeseed or almond, especially for the summer mix. For drier skin in the
winter I use a heavier oil. The consistancy should be like damp sand.
Scoop into a plastic container (glass is too risky as this should be in the shower).
To use, scoop out a couple of fingerfulls and rub along the body BEFORE washing. Actually, with
the soap already in it (you can omit if you like) additional washing may not be necessary, but I
would avoid the face and other sensitive areas. DEFINITELY avoid any cuts or abrasions as the salt
would sting!
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Pour vodka into sterile glass cobalt/amber bottle (60ml/2oz.). Add essential oils. Shake well, add
distilled water, cap with an atomiser. Shake well before each use.
** If you double the recipe to make 4oz, add 1 drop each of lemongrass and ginger EO...
mmmmmmm
*** Do not spray directly over furniture or fabrics. Keep away from flame. Do not spray near drinks,
food or eyes. Keep away from children.
Instructions:
Air freshener gels are easy to make if you use our gel base. You simply start by melting the gel base
in a double boiler being careful not to overheat it. It takes a while so be patient. Don’t stir too much
because it will make air bubbles. Once your base is liquid, add candle dyes drop by drop, stirring to
get a uniform color. Once you are satisfied with the color, add your fragrance oil (1/2 - 1 oz per 8 oz
gel base). Be careful to choose your colors and fragrance oils carefully because if your fragrance oil
is yellow or orange in color, it will affect the color of your gel making it difficult to get colors like
purple or blue. Quickly pour your gel into glass jars or votive containers. Let them set up.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Body Powder
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Mix the dry ingredients and add the essential oil drop by drop mixing very well. Add 1/4 tsp of mica
to color.
Fill a glass bottle with dried potpourri and fill to the top
with liquid paraffin. Seal the cork into place with sealing
wax and package the bottle in a basket with a wick
stopper. Give instructions to remove the cork and place
the wick stopper into the jar. Once the wick has
absorbed some paraffin, the lamp is ready to light.
A small pillow filled with wonderful scents to help enhance your sleep
Ingredients:
1 tbsp Frankincense
1 tbsp Sandalwood
2 tbsp Rose petals
1 tbsp Orris root powder or other fixative of choice
1-2 drops Sandalwood essential oil
1-2 drops Rose essential oil
Instructions:
Sew a natural fiber pouch, fill with mixture, and sew shut. Place between pillow and case for
heavenly dreams.
Ingredients:
<1 tsp finely ground peppermint> <1 tsp finely ground arnica flowers> <1/4 cup cornstarch>
<3/4 cup baking soda> <1 tsp white clay> <25-30 drops peppermint and spearmint essential
oils>
Instructions:
Mix all ingredients together in a bowl. Shake before use. Store in cool, dark location. Shelf life up to
1 year
These are great Non-molding air fresheners. Use an EO for best scent throw
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Add vodka, EO and COloring to jar. Mix WELL. Add polymer crystals. Stir. Add water (Jar should be
about 1/2 full) Wait. Crystals will expand to fill jar. Use an EO witha strong scent (Lavender,
Peppermint, Lemongrass) for the best scent throw. Liquid Potpourri oil (concentrated) can be used
in place of color, scent, vodka and water.
Flea Powder
Submitted by Maryam of Lexington, VA
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Blend herbs until they form a fine powder and then blend with baking soda. Add eo’s and mix well.
Store in a powder sifter. Sprinkle a small amount onto your carpets or put a small amount on your
animal bed. Let sit and then vacuum.
Fragrance Spray
Instructions:
Add a few drops of your favourite essential oil blend or fragrance oil to 1 oz of Everclear or high
proof vodka. Stir and add 2-3 oz of distilled water. Transfer to a glass sprayer bottle.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Dissolve the gelatin in boiling water. Allow to cool to room temp. then add vodka, coloring, and
scent. Pour in a decorative jar and refrigerate until set.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Mix aloe and glycerin in a small bowl. Stir in glitter, fragrance and mica.
Making a Tea
Instructions:
Pouring 2 cups of boiling water over 1 oz of dried herb (double the amount if using fresh) and allow
it to sit for 2-4 minutes or 5-10 minutes for barks, roots, and other hard plant material.
Teas can be used in the bath, as foot soaks, hair rinses, wetting agents for facials, skin wash for
wounds or irritated skin, or of course for taking internally. Teas can also replace water in skin care
formulations however care must be taken to preserve your finished product properly.
Place 6 - 8 oz of dried herbs in a large glass jar. Pour about 10 oz of vodka over the herbs and then
add about 20 oz of water. Mix and then let it sit in a dark cool place. Shake the bottle every so often
for 2 weeks. After 2 weeks, strain the liquid through a fine cheesecloth into a dark amber glass
bottle. Tinctures can be used to make balms, creams, lotions, salves, toners, etc. To make a
calendula, lavender, chamomile or other herbal cream, replace the water with 1 part water and 1
part tincture.
To make a vinegar tincture, follow the above directions but replace the vodka with vinegar.
Place 4 oz of dried herbs in a pan and cover with the desired vegetable oil (olive, sunflower,
grapeseed and safflower work well). Simmer the oil for 2 hours over steam or in a double boiler.
Remove the oil from the heat and strain the oil through a fine cheesecloth. Place another 4 oz of
dried herb in the pan and cover with the strained oil (add a little bit more if necessary to cover the
herbs). Simmer the oil for another 2 hours over steam. Strain the oil again and add about 5% T 50
when cooled. Store in an amber glass bottle. Use this infused oil in creams, lotions, balms, salves,
massage blends, bath oils, lip balm, soap etc. Infused oils of calendula, chamomile, comfrey root,
marshmallow root, lavender, St. John’s Wort and nettle are especially useful for skin care
formulations for dry skin conditions.
Pinch of FDC Coral Mica and a pinch of Gold Karat Sparkle Mica
1 tablespoon dried calendula petals & peppermint leaves crushed or any other dried botanical of
your choice.
Color the salts first with the micas. Add the watermelon seed oil and fragrance oil. Mix well. Add the
dried botanicals. Package in clear glass (Our 10 oz apothecary jar would work nicely). If you buy
the apothecary with the dome lid, you can stuff the lid with dried botanicals or potpourri.
To use: Pour 1/2 cup of salt into a bowl large enough for soaking both feet. Add hot water and
soak. Try using our lotion base fragranced with melon blossom fragrance oil to top off your foot
treatment.
Ingredients:
1 cup everclear
1/2 cup distilled or filtered water
1/2 cup witch hazel
1 ml tea tree essential oil
1ml pepermint essential oil
food color
Instructions:
Add essential oils into everclear and stir. Add water and witch hazel, solution will become cloudy.
Tint with food color. Refreshing blue or green color adds to the experience. Keep in spray bottle,
spray on feet and let air dry. Kicking feet in air like a little kid while drying may refresh sprit at same
time.
1 tsp jojoba
Slowly warm up the 3 oils while you soak your hands in hot water. Then quickly stir in the essential
oil and rub into both hands, working the oil into the skin and around the cuticles. For best results,
cover hands with a pair of gloves and leave for 30 minutes.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Mix all the ingredients and store in a cool, dark place. Massage into nails and area around nails as
desired.
Shoe Powder
Submitted by Andrea of Worcester, MA
Shoe Powder
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Mix fragrance with dendritic salt. Mix into baking soda and arrowroot powder. Sprinkle in shoes/
sneakers. My husband no longer has stinky feet!
Ingredients:
Instructions:
Blend all oils together and massage into affected ares 1 to 2 times daily.
U.S. to Metric
1/5 teaspoon = 1 milliliter
1 teaspoon = 5 ml
1 tablespoon = 15 ml
1/5 cup = 50 ml
1 cup = 240 ml
2 cups (1 pint) = 470 ml
4 cups (1 quart) = .95 liter
4 quarts (1 gal.) = 3.8 liters
Metric to U.S.
1 militers = 1/5 teaspoon
5 ml = 1 teaspoon
15 ml = 1 tablespoon
34 ml = 1 fluid oz.
100 ml = 3.4 fluid oz.
240 ml = 1 cup
1 liter = 34 fluid oz.
1 liter = 4.2 cups
1 liter = 2.1 pints
1 liter = 1.06 quarts
1 liter = .26 gallon
Weight
1 gram = .035 ounce
100 grams = 3.5 ounces
500 grams = 1.10 pounds
1 kilogram = 2.205 pounds
1 kilogram = 35 oz.
Because essential oils are concentrated, highly potent substances, you must know how to work
with them safely. The potential hazards of an essential oil depend on the compounds in the oil, the
dosage and frequency used, and the method of application. Some can cause skin irritations, some
can raise or lower blood pressue and some can even cause abortions so become familiar with the
oils you intend to use. Here are a few guidelines to ensure safe and effective use of essential oils:
• Use only pure essential oils from plants. Buy your oils from a trustworthy source and beware of
cheap essential oils. Prices of essential oils vary greatly and are subject to fluctuation and few
are inexpensive.
• Most essential oils should not be used undiluted (neat) on the skin. They can cause burning,
skin irritation and photosensitivity. Oils such as lavendar, or tea tree and a few others are
exceptions to this rule. These can be used neat on burns, insect bites, pimples and other skin
eruptions - unless you have sensitive skin. You can test new oils by diluting them with a carrier
oil and massaging it into the soles of your feet. Oils will usually not irritate the thicker skin. If
you do have a reaction then it is probably an allergy to the oil and you should not try to use it
on your skin.
• Some of the citrus oils greatly increase photosensitivity. Bergamot contains bergaptene, a
powerful photosensitizer that wil cause allergic reactions in some individuals. (Bergaptene-free
oil is available.) Of the citrus oils, bergamot is the most photosensitizing. If you are using
photosensitizing oils on your skin, use them at night, stay indoors, or wait at least four hours
before going out during the day.
• Keep all essential oils away from the eyes. Some are irritating to mucous membranes and
should be used with caution.
• Keep all essential oils out of the reach of young children. Older children can learn to use
essential oils safely, but they should nevertheless be supervised. In general, when treating
children with essential oils, use one-third to one-half the adult dosage and select only non-toxic
oils. The oils generally used for children are lavender, roman chamomile, mandarin, tangerine,
neroli, frankincense, petitgrain, yarrow, eucalyptus and tea tree.
• Vary the essential oils you use. While it is alright to use a small amount of a blend such as a
facial oil blend for a long period of time, it is not recommended that you use an application of
the same blend of oils over your entire body for more than two weeks at a time. Alternate with a
blend of different oils containing different chemical constituents at least every two weeks. Give
your body a chance to rid itself of the constituents of a particular oil or oils.
• Essential oils must be used cautiosly with the elderly and those who have serious health
problems such as asthma, epilepsy or heart disease. Be aware of how the oils you use can
affect these conditions.
• Use extra caution when using essential oils during pregnancy, especially during the first
trimester. Stick to the very safe oils such as rose, neroli, lavender, Ylang-Ylang, chamomile,
jasmine absolute, the citruses, geranium, sandlewood, spearmint and frankincense.
• “Too much of anything is no good.” Keep in miind that 1 ounce of essential oil is the equivalent
of several pounds of the actual plant material. If you’ve been overexposed to an essential oil,
either through the skin or through inhalation, you may experience nausea, headache, skin
irritation and/or other symptoms. If this happens, get some fresh air. If you ever experience skin
irritation or accidently get essential oils in the eyes, dilute with straight vegetable oil, not water
as water will cause further absorption.
A safe and effective dilution for most aromatherapy applications is 2% (2 drops of essential oil per
100 drops of carrier oil). There is no need to go beyond a 3% dilution for any purpose. Using more
of an oil will not get you better results; in fact, it may cause adverse effects. Some oils, such as
lavender, are sedating in low dilutions and stimulating in high dilutions. A 1% dilution should be
used on children, pregnant women, the elderly and those with health concerns.
When making blends for the first time, start with no more than two or three oils at a time. The
more complicated blends require a bit more knowledge because the oils have synergistic effects
(meaning that the combination of oils have properties greater than the um of the individual oils).
• Tub Bath - 3-15 drops diluted in a carrier depending on the oil. Adjust amounts for baby baths
and use only the safe oils.
• Hand/Foot Bath - this is a great way to obtain the therapeutic effects of aromatherapy when a
bath is not possible. Use 3-4 drops in a little 1 quart tub of warm water and soak for 10
minutes. This is a good way to treat fungal problems of the foot.
• Inhalation - 3-8 drops in a bowl of hot water will help relieve congestion, coughing and chest
infections. Cover your head with a towel and inhale the vapours. Caution: never do an
inhalation during an asthma attack or with epileptic people. You can also put 3 drops of an oil
on a handerchief, pillow or cotton ball in a zip lock baggie.
• Douche - 3-5 drops per quart of warm water. Caution: Choose non-irritant oils only (e.g.,
lavender or tea tree).
• Fragrant Body Water - 5-10 drops per 4 ouces of water in a spray bottle.
The techniques used in candlemaking are relatively simple however the art of candlemaking
cannot be mastered simply by reading about the techniques. Only a process of trial and error and
good note taking can make you an expert on the subject of candles. The materials you use will
determine the quality of your candles but each candle will require a different combination of
materials and techniques. Good note taking will allow you to determine what works and what
doesn’t and when you perfect your candle, you will be able to reproduce it. What ever doesn’t work,
can be melted down again and re used. Candle scraps and pieces of shaved wax can all be kept
and recycled so nothing goes to waste. Candles were meant to be burned so no matter how
beautiful your candle comes out, remember it isn’t done until it burns well so keep working at it
until you get a good smokeless, even burning candle.
A candle is basically a block of wax or fat (fuel) wrapped around a wick. The wick burns and melts
the solid fuel around it. As it melts, it â•œwicksâ•• the fuel up through the fibers and then
vaporizes the fuel. The earliest forms of fuel were animals fats, plant waxes, tallow and beeswax.
Eventually the development of paraffin revolutionized the candle industry and we were able to
achieve long burning, smoke free, inexpensive candles. Nowadays, candles can be made with pure
beeswax or pure paraffin or a blend of the two. There are also a number of different specialty waxes
that are used to give candles longer burning times and special effects.
Types of Candles
Container candles - candles that are poured into a vessel of some sort that contains the melted
wax as it burns. These candles are usually made of soft wax.
Pillar candles - thick columns of wax that can be made in a variety of geometric shapes.
Novelty candles - irregularly shaped candles that are made by molding or sculpting wax in the
shape of various objects/figurines.
Tapers - tall thin candles that are about 1/2 - 1 inch in diameter and are made to fit in a candle
holder. These are the typical dinner table candles and are made by repeatedly dipping the wick into
a container of wax until the taper is the right diameter. Tapers can also be made with a mold or by
rolling sheets of wax around a wick.
Votives - thick little candles about 2 inches in diameter and about 2-3 inches tall. These are
typically used in small spaces like bath rooms for fragrance.
Tea lights - little containers candles used for warming potpourri pots and food trays.
Dipping - Tapers are easily made by repeatedly dipping a length of wick into a container of melted
wax. Each layer hardens and makes the taper thicker and thicker. The natural force of gravity
creates a tapered effect. Usually a pair of tapers is made to insure matching thickness. This is done
by holding a double length of wick in the center and dipping both ends so 2 tapers are created
simultaneously.
Poured - Poured candles refers to any candle that was made by pouring wax into a molded form -
this includes container candles, molded candles and cast candles.
Rolled - Rolled candles are probably the easiest to make. They are made by rolling sheets of wax
around the wick. Tapers, pillars and novelty candles can be made using this method.
Wax Additives
When combined with waxes, additives can harden, mottle, opacify and create other special effects.
They should generally be melted with a small amount of your wax blend and then added to the rest
of the batch of wax. This will ensure proper melting and thorough blending.
Stearic acid - when combined with paraffin waxes at the right temperature and in the right ratio,
stearic acid can combine with wax to form very strong crystalline structure. This makes a hard
candle that resists bending or caving in. It aids in mold release. Stearic acid is usually used at a rate
of about 2-5 tablespoons per pound of wax. Stearic acid also helps opacify a translucent wax. In
cases where you are overdipping a candle to protect embedded objects, (shells, leaves, flowers etc)
you will want to avoid using stearic acid as you will be unable to see through the outer coating.
Microcrystallines - a group of highly refined waxes that are generally used to increase wax to wax
adhesion or make waxes more pliable and elastic or to make waxes more durable and hard.
Choose your microcrystalline waxes carefully and know what they are for before you use them.
Used properly, they can really increase the quality of your candles.
Synthetic polymers - there are a number of polymer additives that can be used to prevent color
fading, assist in mold release, increase the luster of a candle, raise the melting point of a candle,
create mottling effects etc. You will need to follow the manufacturers directions for use to achieve
the proper results.
Vegetable waxes - Waxes such as carnauba and candelilla are obtained from waxy plants that grow
in Mexico, Texas and Brazil. These waxes are much more brittle than beeswax and have very high
melting points and are therefor used mainly to raise the melting point of softer waxes and to make
them harder. Use these waxes when you need to add strength to a wax blend. Soy wax is a softer
wax and is good for container candles and small 3 inch pillars. Soy wax is an earth friendly wax, it
burns longer, cooler and cleaner than paraffin wax, it comes from a renewable, sustainable source,
it is not carcinogenic & it supports American farmers.
Wax Blends
Wax sheet blends:
· 100% beeswax. Melt, color, scent and pour into flat sheets.
· Half and half beeswax and paraffin (medium melting point). Melt, color, scent and pour into
sheets.
· 100% paraffin (or 90% Paraffin and 10% stearic acid). Melt color, scent and pour into sheets.
Figuring out how much wax you need to fill a container/mold: Fill your container or mold with
water. Then measure the water in a measuring cup. For each cup of water, you will need
approximately 8 ounces or 1/2 lb of wax.
When burning a candle, always trim the wick to about 1/4 inch so that when it burns, it will keep
the flame from getting too big and will help the wick burn properly. The wick should have a 1 - 2
inch flame that burns steady and the tip of the wick should be in the outer oxidation zone of the
flame so that it burns off completely. If the tip of the wick is within the combustion zone (inner part
of the flame), it will smoke.
Whether or not your candle burns properly will depend largely on your choice of wick. The
thickness of the wick must be chosen according to the thickness of your candle but also, it needs
to be able to melt just the right amount of the wax so that it will have a good burn rate. The burn
rate is the amount of wax the wick will burn in a given amount of time. The wick should be burning
enough wax so that a pool surrounds the wick without spilling over the side of the candle. Spilling
wax means that the wick is melting too much wax and not wicking or using it up fast enough;
therefore the wick is too small for the diameter of the candle or for the type of wax used. Too little
wax surrounding the wick means that the wick is drawing up the wax too quickly and is not getting
the fuel it needs; therefore the wick is too large for the diameter of the candle or for the type of wax
used. Keeping this in mind will help you determine if your wick is too thick or too thin for your
candle diameter and wax type.
Types of Wicks
Deciding on which wick to use requires a bit of trial and error at first. You can start by following the
general guidelines for choosing a wick according to the diameter of the candle but the type of wax
and additives you choose will also determine if your wick will work efficiently.
Flat braid wicks are made by braiding 3 multi-ply strands of cotton. The more plies per strand, the
larger the wick Flat braids generally run extra small (15 ply), small (18 ply), medium ( 24-30 ply),
large (42 ply) and extra large (60 ply). Use flat braids in tapers. Small diameter pillars and beeswax
sheet rolled candles.
Square braided wicks are specially braided to form a square shaped wick. These wicks are
numbered starting at 6/0 (the smallest) to 1/0 (about medium) and then #1 through #10 (the
largest). The numbers without the /0 are braided less tightly and allow the wick to be thicker
without being denser or heavier. Use a square braid wick in rolled beeswax candles, pillars, large
cast candles & novelty candles.
Cored wicks can have a paper, cotton, zinc or lead core (although lead core wicks are less
common today) that holds the wick up. The metal cores burn hotter than cotton or paper and
should be used when you need a higher burn rate or are using a high melt wax blend. Cored wicks
are used for container candles so that they stand erect while pouring the wax and so they don’t
bend over into the wax pool as the candle burns. These generally come in small, medium and
large sizes although specialty sizes are available.
Another way to color candles is to start with a white or lightly colored candle (a core candle or a
premade candle base) and simply overdip or paint the base with colored wax. For instance, you
can take a plain white ball base and ‘glue’ on colored wax pieces until the base is covered such as
when making a millefiori design.
To roll your candles in herbs/petals - Spread out your finely minced dried herbs. Use lavender buds,
calendula petals, finely crushed rosehips, hibiscus, and other colorful herbs. Coat one half of your
candle base with regular craft glue and roll in the herbs. Repeat on the other half and let it dry for
several hours. Go back and fill in the bald spots.
Dipping Candles
Dipping a candle is one of the easiest ways to make a candle. It naturally creates a tapered effect
as a length of wick is repeated immersed in wax until it reaches the desired diameter. They are
generally made in pairs by dipping both ends of a double length wick into the wax simultaneously.
You will need a dipping can a few inches taller than the desired candle height and you will need
enough wax to form the candles as well as to maintain the level of wax in the dipping can. Select a
1/0 square braid or a 30 -42 ply flat braid. You can use 100% beeswax, a blend of paraffin and
beeswax, or a blend of paraffin, beeswax and stearic (see suggested blends). Also have ready a
bucket of water to submerge the tapers in. Cut a length of wick 2 x the desired height of the tapers
+ 4 inches. Tie a metal washer or bolt to each end of the wick as weights. Cut a 2 inch piece of
cardboard and make a 1/2 in cut on 2 opposite sides. Centering your wick, insert the wick into the
niches so that the hanging lengths are equal. Heat the wax in a double boiler to 155F if you are
using paraffin and stearic or 165F if you are using beeswax. Color and scent the wax. Pour the wax
into the dipping can to about 1 inch from the top and maintain this level by refilling it with wax as
necessary. Keep the dipping can in a hot water bath to keep it at the right temperature. Dip the
wick ends into the wax to about 1 inch of the top and hold it there until you don’t see any more
bubbles escaping. Hang the cardboard on something so that the wicks can harden. You can also
dip them in the bucket of cool water to speed up the hardening. When all the water has run off and
the wax is cool, re-submerge quickly to the same level pulling it out slowly but steadily. Allow it to
cool again. Re submerge as before and you should begin to see the wax building up. If it’s not,
then the dipping wax is too hot and is melting the wax each time you redip so let it cool down a few
degrees before redipping. Keep dipping and cooling until the candles reach 1/4 inch in diameter at
the thickest end. Then cut off the bottom of the candles evenly, taking off the weights. Keep
dipping the candles until they reach about 7/8 inches (the standard) in diameter. Use a knife to
shave off excess wax at the base of the candle before the last few dips. If you want, you can dip the
last few dips in a high melting point wax to give the candle a hard outer shell. Immediately after the
last dip, immerse your tapers in cool water to give them a shiny surface. Hang them up to harden
completely.
A couple of notes about dipping - The candle will not grow if your wax is too hot and it will become
lumpy if the wax is too cold so for each new wax blend that you use, you will need to find the
perfect temperature for dipping. Don’t let your candle get too cool between dips or the layers will
Overdipping the tapers - overdipping simply means that your last dip is in a high melting point wax
and therefore it creates a nice hard outer shell that eliminates dripping. The inner wax is contained
by the hard outer shell until it is completely consumed. To overdip a candle, melt your high MP wax
and add 10-30% stearic acid (unless you need the candle surface to be see through). Make sure
the candle to be overdipped is not cold or the wax will not adhere well. Take your warm candle and
dip it into the overdip wax and pull it our slowly but steadily. The candle will be soft from the high
temperature. To get a nice glossy finish, immediately submerge the candle in cool water and then
hang it carefully until it rehardens. An overdip can be used to color a white candle too. Instead of
using colored wax for the whole candle, you can use a regular white taper and just dip it into
colored overdip wax.
Because tapers remain pretty pliable between dips, you can take advantage of this and create
braided candles by braiding 3 skinny tapers together or twisting a pair of skinny tapers around
each other. You can flatten your taper a little with a warm rolling pin (leave the base round so it will
fit into a candle holder) and then twist the whole candle to create a twisted taper.
To seal in botanicals on the surface of a candle, ‘glue’ the botanicals onto the surface of the candle
with some melted wax and then overdip in a high melt paraffin without stearic acid. You can add 5-
10% microcrystalline (the type that hardens) to the paraffin for extra hardness.
Striping a candle - Place strips of masking tape around the candle where you want it to remain the
base color. Then dip the candle in colored wax, plunge it into cool water and allow it to dry.
Remove the tape. You can also create horizontal stripes by dipping half the candle in one color,
flipping it over and dipping the other half plus an inch or 2 in another color. The part that got
dipped in both colors will be a mix of the two colors so you will have a candle with 3 different color
bands.
Overpouring
You can create some really pretty candles by overpouring around a premade base. Place your
premade base inside of a mold that is slightly larger in diameter than the base. Surround the base
with dried flowers, shells, coffee beans, beads etc to fill the space between the base and the mold.
Slowly pour in a clear wax (no stearic acid) that has a higher melting point than the base wax.
Candles can also be painted with regular acrylic paints. You can use brush techniques or sponging
techniques or even stencils. You can protect your painting with an overdipped coat.
Poured Candles
A poured candle simply means a candle that was made by pouring melted wax into a form so that
the candle takes on the form when hardened. Therefore, poured candles can be container candles,
candles that were formed in a mold or cast candles. Container candles are the easiest to make as
the wax is simply poured into the container in which it will be burned.
Generally, a one piece candle mold comes with a hole in the base that allows you to thread the
wick through it. You then use a wick sealer and screw to hold it in place. The other end of the wick
is usually wrapped around a rod or pencil that rests along the upper rim of the mold, holding the
wick taut and centered. A store bought mold will come with more specific instructions for use. If
you are using a homemade mold such as a milk carton, you can make a small hole in the bottom
of the carton, thread the wick through and then seal the hole with some modeling clay or putty or
tape. This will become the top of your candle so make sure to leave excess wick outside of the
To pour your candle - melt your wax blend to about 165F in a double boiler or crock pot and add
your wax additives, color and scent. Have your mold wicked and ready to go. If you are using a
rigid mold, lightly coat the inside with mold release (not necessary if you are using a rubber mold
or disposable tear away mold). Pour a 1/2 inch layer of wax into the mold to help seal the wick
hole. When your wax reaches the right temperature for pouring (your mold instructions should
have a suggested wax temperature), pour the wax slowly down the side of the mold to prevent air
bubbles. If you are using a water bath to cool/shrink the candle quickly, transfer the mold to the
water making sure no water runs into the candle. Make sure the whole depth of the candle is
submerged and weigh it down with something heavy so it won’t bob around. Once a thin layer on
the surface has hardened, poke holes around the wick down the length of the candle to release the
air bubbles and fill the holes with more wax. Make sure that the wax doesn’t run over the sides of
the candle between the wall of the mold and the side of the candle that has shrunk and pulled
away from the mold. Repeat the repouring until the surface no longer caves. Wait until the candle
is completely cool and hard before attempting to remove it doesn’t become distorted from the
handling. If you find it difficult to remove the candle from the mold even after it has hardened, try
popping it in the refrigerator for 20 minutes.
Color Variation
You can pour a candle with different colored layers by pouring a color and then waiting until it
hardens and then pouring another color. The harder you let each layer get between pours, the
more sharp the color change. If you want the colors to blend a little between layers, pour your
layers when only about 1/8 inch of the previous layer has hardened. The second color will melt the
first and the colors will blend a bit.
Chunk Candles
A chunk candle is made by filling the mold with chunked up pieces of colored wax and the pouring
a clear or contrasting colored wax over the chunks. You will need to tap the mold around to ensure
that air doesn’t become trapped inside the candle around the chunks.
Embedding Objects
To make candles with objects (sea shells, botanicals, decorative objects) on the outer surface of the
candle, place the objects along the mold wall and hold them in place with chunks of wax the same
color as the rest of your candle. Then pour your melted wax to fill up the mold. Tap the mold
around lightly to release trapped air bubbles. The closer you can get the objects to the wall of the
mold, the more they will show through the surface of the candle. Don’t use stearic acid in these
candles because it will opacify the wax and the objects will not show through. These candles are
best poured in a larger diameter mold otherwise, the objects will become loose as the candle
burns. If the objects do not show well through the surface, use quick even swipes of a propane
torch to melt the outer surface of the candle to expose more of the objects.
To make your own wax sheets, melt and color/scent one of the recommended wax blends and
pour it evenly onto a foiled flat surface. Allow it to cool and carefully peel away the foil paper. Trim
the sides to make even sheets.
To roll a simple pillar candle, place a length of 36-42 ply flat braid wick or a 1/0 square braid wick
1/8 inch from the narrow edge of a wax sheet (cut your wick at least 1 1/2 inch longer than the
height of your candle). Make sure the wax sheets have been kept in a warm room for a while before
starting so that they will be pliable and won’t break when you try to roll them. Bend the edge of the
sheet over the wick and press firmly so the wick is nicely sandwiched between the wax layers. Start
rolling the sheet tightly, keeping the bottom edge of your candle even. When you get to the edge,
press it firmly onto the surface of the candle so it seals. Using a heated knife will help if the wax
doesn’t want to stick. Run the hot blade across the open edge and quickly seal into place. Trim the
wick to be flush on the bottom and to within 1/2 inch on top.
A fun thing to do with wax sheets is to use cookie cutters or a knife to cut various shapes out of the
sheets and then apply the shapes onto plain pillar candles.
The high mineral content of Dead Sea Salt stimulates blood and lymphatic circulation. Increased
circulation moves trapped fluid from joints, improving joint movement and reducing stiffness and
pain. Regular use of salts promotes healthy skin by exfoliating and encouraging regeneration of
new skin cells.
The Mud and/or Clay from the Dead Sea is equally rich in minerals and helps revitalize, exfoliate
and purify the skin. It draws toxins, oils & debris from the skin leaving a clean fresh feeling. It
helps to tighten pores and stimulate circulation so your skin is left with a smooth healthy glow. The
mud can also be used as a pack for sore joints. Use the mud as a hair pack to alleviate dandruff
and oily hair conditions. It will not over dry the scalp.
The Dead Sea Brine is the mineral rich water from the Dead Sea. It can be used in creams, lotions,
facials, masks, body wraps, etc.
A Dead Sea Mud Mask can be made very simply with some dead sea clay and enough water to
make a thick paste. The best water would of course be, the dead sea brine. You can also use the
mud which is already wet. You can add 3 drops of essential oil to the mud to help cleanse the
pores and kill bacteria that cause blemishes. Other wetting agents for the clay are fruit puree,
yogurt, cucumber juice, milk, etc. Honey can be added to make the mask anti bacterial. If your
skin tends to be dry in some spots, you may want to add some jojoba to the mud mask to help
balance the skin. Other good additives are: Powdered Sea Vegetables, Powdered Rice Bran,
Colloidal Oatmeal, Nut Meals, Powdered Herbs etc. Dead Sea Masks cannot be premixed and
stored so only mix what you will use immediately or provide customers with a specially blended
wetting agent in a separate container so they can mix as they need.
A great Dead Sea hair wrap can be made with 1/2 cup mud or clay (wet with Dead Sea Brine), 1
Tablespoon shikakai powder, 1 tsp aritha powder, 1 tsp neem powder, 1 Tablespoon jojoba oil and
5 drops of rosemary essential oil. Mix all the ingredients and massage through wet hair. Wrap with
plastic and then a hot towel. Leave it for at least 15 minutes and then wash out.
Dead Sea Mud and Clay can be added to soap at a rate of 1T - 2T per pound.
Dead Sea Salt can be used by itself to make a bath salt or you can blend it with other salts to keep
your costs down. It can be used as is or you can color and scent.
Use emu oil in essential oil blends to help deliver the oils into the skin. Use in massage or sports
blends to relieve soreness and inflammation. Emu oil becomes creamy looking at 65 F and will
solidify if keep colder. Refrigeration is recommended if you plan to store emu oil for longer than 3
months.
About Hemp
Hemp (Cannabis sativa) The hemp plant is one of the most economically useful plants because
every part of the plant can be used and multiple crops can be harvested annually from a single
field. The seeds of the hemp plant yield a non narcotic oil that is made up of 81% poly-unsaturated
essential fatty acids of EFAs necessary for the metabolism of healthy skin. Due to this unusually
high content of EFAs, hemp seeds are used in a variety of health food preparations and the oil is
being used more and more in the nutraceutical and cosmeceutical industries. Hemp seed oil can
be used at a rate of 5-20% in soaps, lotions, creams, balms, lotion bars etc.
Hemp fiber is becoming popular in the textile industry due to economic and environmental
concerns. Compared to cotton, hemp produces twice as much fiber per acre and while cotton
typically requires significant amounts of pesticide spraying, hemp requires none. Hemp does not
need as much water as cotton and can grow in almost any temperate or tropical climate. The fiber
from hemp is 10 times stronger than cotton and can be used to make all types of clothing.
Anecdotal reports of neem date back to the Middle Ages, and accounts of its successful use in
treating skin lesions and a variety of ailments come from around the world. On the Indian
subcontinent, where the neem tree is known as the “village pharmacy,” researchers have found
more than 60 medicinal uses. Today, neem oil is becoming popular outside of India because it has
proven itself to be a safe alternative to stronger, less benign treatments. It can be used to treat
acne, eczema, psoriasis, other skin lesions, dandruff, lice, chicken pox, diaper rash, insect bites,
hot spots in animals etc.
The neem oil that we offer is a wildcrafted, unrefined neem oil and is of superior quality.
Recommended Usage:
· In soap: use the oil as 30% of the base oil or as a superfatting agent at 5-10%.
· In antibacterial salves: make a balm with beeswax, neem oil and tea tree for cuts and scrapes.
· As a facial for acne control: mix the neem powder with green clay and use as a mask.
· In the bath: make a strong tea with the leaves or the powder and pour into bath water.
· For athletes foot and other foot problems: Make a strong tea and soak feet.
· For dandruff and head lice: Massage the oil into hair and leave for 1 hour. Shampoo. Repeat
once weekly for 3 weeks or as long as problem persists.
· As a garden pesticide: Spray infested plant material with a solution of neem oil, aritha powder
(as a surfactant) and water. The insects will avoid sprayed leaves and will die of starvation.
Fragrance oils are generally made from a combination of essential oils and synthetic aromatic
compounds. They are rarely “all natural” although it can be done. They are unlimited in the range
Flavor oils are really just fragrances that are approved for use in lip products. They do not give a
taste to lip balms (they are not sweet oils). Use at recommended rate of 2-5%.
How to
Heat Shea Butter Properly
Improper heating of shea butter can cause the butter to crystallize as it cools which can cause lip
balms, body butters and other formulations to turn gritty upon sitting. In order to avoid this, shea
butter must be melted and heated to about 175 degrees and kept at that temperature for at least
20 minutes. This will allow the butter to melt completely so that crystals will not form once cooled.
If the resulting number is very small or difficult to measure, you can multiply oz x 30 to get ml (or
cc). So 1.6 oz x 30 = 48 ml or 48 cc. You can find ml/cc syringes at any pharmacy.
Making
An Infusion
Making an infusion simply means making a “tea”. Bring the water almost to boiling and then pour
over the herbs. Generally 1 cup water is used per 1-2 teaspoons of herb. Let it steep for at least 15
minutes. Cool and strain. Store in a glass jar but preserve with alcohol if you intend to keep it for
more than 3 days.
Cleansing
Use a detergent free cleanser - Liquid castille is a very good, mild soap for the hair. Herb such as
shikakai, amla & aritha have been used for centuries in India to gently clean the hair and scalp.
These herbs are used to make a “tea” which is then used to wash the hair. Neem powder tea can
be used when there are scalp problems such as dandruff or to treat lice.
Conditioning
Apple cider vinegar infused with natural herbs such as rosemary and neem is the best natural
conditioner. It will leave your hair soft and manageable.
Oil Treatments
Combine the following: 6 oz fractionated coconut oil, 3 oz Monoi de Tahiti, 1 oz castor oil, 2 oz
jojoba, 2 oz emu oil, 2 oz shea oil. When ready to use, heat the oils in a double boiler and apply to
dampened hair and scalp. Wrap with a hot towel and allow it to sit for 20 minutes. Wash with liquid
castille soap (rosemary essential oil can be added to the castille soap).
Using
An Anti-Oxidant to Preserve Your Products
In the cosmetic industry, an anti oxidant is a preservative that reduces the rate of oxidation of
unstable oils. You would want to use an anti oxidant in your skin care products if they contain
fragile oils such as sweet almond, hemp, avocado, flax, evening primrose etc or simply if they are
going to be kept for long periods of time. You can add anti oxidants directly to your oils to keep
them fresh or you can add the anti oxidant to the oil phase of your recipe. Lip balm, lotion bars,
creams, lotions, and any other product containing oils can benefit from the addition of an anti
oxidant.
Examples of anti oxidants are vitamin E (must be a low alpha mixed tocopherol form of vitamin E
to work as an anti oxidant) or Rosemary Oil Extract. Both are typically used at a rate of .5 -2%. Mix
with your oils before combining oils with water (if applicable).
Vitamin E from the health food store is NOT a suitable anti oxidant for skin care products because
it contains a high percentage of alpha-tocopherol which is great for your skin but doesn’t act as an
anti oxidant. The delta and gamma tocopherols are better anti oxidants than the alpha tocopherol
and these can be found in a high percentage in our T50 vitamin E oil.
China clay or white kaolin has a mild astringent effect and is best used on dry to normal skin.
Multani mitti or fullers earth absorbs toxins very well and exfoliates well making it a good facial clay
for oily, scaly, combination skin.
Roseclay is similar to china clay and is good for dry to normal skin.
Bentonite and French Green clay are the most drawing of the clays and are best used on oily to
normal skin. These can help revitalize tired looking skin and will encourage blood flow to the skin.
Moroccan red clay is also good for drawing out toxins and excess oils from the skin and should be
used for oily to normal skin types.
Emulsifying Wax
Our emulsifying wax is a vegetable based emulsifier (Ingredients: Cetearyl Alcohol, Polysorbate 60,
PEG-150 Stearate & Steareth-20). It is used to bind oil and water together in creams, lotions etc.
Measure out 5% emulsifying wax and melt with your other solid waxes/oils.
FD & C Dyes
To use FD & C dyes: These dyes are water soluble and highly concentrated. Mix a small amount
with warm water and stir until dissolved. Since the color of your product will be lighter than the
color of the dyed water, you will need to do some trials to determine how much dye is required per
batch to get the end results you desire. These dyes produce brilliant colors and can be blended to
get other colors. Add this dye to the water phase of your formulation.
Flavor Oils
Flavor oils are simply “fragrance” for lip products. These oils do not have a taste and they are not
sweet. The oil can be added to one of the oils or directly to your lip balm batch while it is still warm.
Use the flavor oils at 2 - 5% but not more than 5%.
Handling GSE
Avoid contact with eyes. If contact should occur, immediately flush eyes/eye with water for at least
10 minutes and see a physician. Always dilute before using on skin or for personal use. There’s no
need to dilute for use in soaps and toiletries. If it comes in contact with the skin (unless you’re
using a drop for warts or cysts), you should thoroughly rinse the area with water. As with all other
medications, keep out of the reach of children.
Uses
• For a fruit/veggie or meat/fish wash: use 8-15 drops per gallon of water
• For disinfecting toothbrushes: 2 drops in 5 oz. of water. You can store your toothbrush for a
week in this solution.
• To disinfect drinking water: If possible, filter water first or let sit. Add 10 drops GSE to gallon of
clear water. Shake and let resettle. It will be bitter but clean.
• For general disinfection of counter tops and other surfaces: Use 8-15 drops per gallon of water.
• For soap or lotions: Use between .05 and 2% of your total ingredients. Add to oils before adding
lye when using in soap.
Use GSE ar a rate of .05- 2%. To measure out 2%, multiply the total volume (in ounces) of your
batch times .02 to get ounces of GSE to use. Usually the amount is too small to measure in
ounces so you can multiply that number by 30 to get ml and use an ml syringe to measure your
GSE.
GSE is made with extracts of citrus seeds/pulp. It is made through a special process of combining
polyphenols with the acidic extracts of citrus seeds/pulp until they convert to a stable quaternary
Hydrolyzed Silk
The addition of hydrolyzed silk amino acids to a cream, lotion or soap, gives the product a “silky”
feel. Add the silk during the water phase at a rate of about 1-6% in creams, or lotions and about 4-
10% in soaps.
Milk Powders
The nice thing about using milk in the powdered form (other than the fact that you can have it
around and not have to worry about it going bad before you use it), is that you can alter the
concentration of it and therefore make a fattier milk. The normal reconstitution rate for milk
powder is 4 T per cup of water. In soap, you may prefer to use 6-8 T of powder per cup water to
increase the creaminess of your milk.
In cold process soap, you will find it easier to reserve a small amount of your water from your
recipe and use that water to make a paste with the milk powder. Add the milk paste to your batch
at light trace. You can also make up the milk and use it in place of your water, however, it will need
to be chilled before combining with the lye.
In MP soap, you can make a paste with 1T of milk powder per pound of soap (mix with just enough
water to make it into a paste) and add it to the melted base. Stir well to incorporate.
Polysorbate 20
Use polysorbate 20 to emulsify oils & water at about 1:1 (may require slightly more to achieve a
clear solution). Mix fragrance /essential oils with P20 until you get a clear solution and then add to
batch. Since this may not be compatible with all essential oils and fragrance oils do a small test
first. Some fragrance oils may cloud. Great for body sprays, room and linen sprays etc.
Then mix 10 parts by weight of Part A with 1 part by weight of Part B (activator) in a container. Stir
thoroughly either by hand until a uniform light blue color results. A Plastic disposable stirrer will
work best. Do not overmix however as you will wind up with too many air bubbles. Once, properly
mixed, carefully pour the compound over the objects in your tray being careful not to move the
objects at all. It helps to hold the object in place as you pour the rubber around and over it until
you are sure it will not move. Allow 16 to 18 hours cure time.
Once hard, carefully remove the rubber mold from the tub or container. Then carefully remove the
objects from the bottom of the mold.
This compound has exceptional tear strength so it can withstand repeated flexing for part removal.
To prolong life of your molds, carefully clean them after each use and allow to dry properly. Keep
them out of direct sunlight and in room temperature.
You will need approximately 1 lb. of compound per 3 cavities. The 5 lb. size is good for about 12
cavities.
Home Fragrance Products, including potpourri, rooms sprays, linen sprays, air freshener gels etc.
are becoming fast selling items and well known companies have placed great emphasis on these
new lines.
• They can be sold individually with a wide range of pricing or they can be added to gift sets/
baskets to fill them out
• Potpourri and freshener gels tend to attract the eye and nose drawing more people to your
displays/stores
• Potpourri is easily customized for the person it is meant for by varying the colors and fragrance
• It can be made with pure essential oils for an aromatherapy product or with high quality
fragrance oils
• It has no shelf life and can be made well in advance of a craft show or gift giving season
B
basil 39
beeswax 11, 12, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 22, 33, 42, 46, 50, 52, 53, 56, 58, 59, 60, 61
bentonite clay 39, 43
benzoin gum powder 17
borage oil 47
borax 17, 50, 52, 53
butter 11
cocoa 12, 17, 18, 30, 38, 40, 44, 46, 48
illipe 12, 15, 16, 52
kokum 16, 26
mango 16, 37, 40, 58
nutmeg 40
sal 16, 37, 40
shea 15, 16, 18, 27, 30, 40, 44, 45, 47, 53, 56, 57, 59
buttermilk 40, 43
C
calendula oil 57, 58, 59, 60
calendula petals 14, 15, 16, 30, 56, 60
calendula powder 48, 61
camelina oil 57, 60, 61
canola oil 28, 29, 30, 39, 43, 45
carrot oil 47
carrots 29
carrotseed essential oil 47
castor oil 26, 28, 30, 35, 36, 37, 42, 43, 44, 45, 57
chamomile essential oil 61
chamomile flowers 14, 16, 26, 60
chamomile powder 48, 58, 61
citric acid 15, 54
citronella java essential oil 27
clay
bentonite 39, 43
sea 51
white kaolin 60
D
dill weed 41
E
emu oil 12, 14, 18, 37, 52, 57
emulsifying wax 15, 54
essential oil
anise 41
carrotseed 47
chamomile 61
citronella java 27
clovebud 30
eucalyptus 18
eucalyptus citriodora 27
fennel 41
geranium 27
grapefruit 13
lavender 14, 15, 18, 48, 52, 57, 58, 60, 61
lemon 13
lemongrass 36
mandarin 13, 26, 60
myrrh 39
nutmeg 40
orange 13
peppermint 18, 42
roman chamomile 14, 48, 59
rose 14
rose bulgarian 48
rosemary 27, 42
sandalwood 39
spearmint 30
tea tree 15, 36, 42
vanilla 40
eucalyptus citriodora essential oil 27
eucalyptus essential oil 18
evening primrose oil 47
exfoliant 26
F
fennel essential oil 41
flax seed oil 31
floral water 52
cucumber 26
jasmine 52
G
gel wax 20
geranium essential oil 27
glycerin 51, 52, 53, 56
glycerine 15
goats milk powder 15, 33, 40, 41, 61
goldenseal 56
grapefruit seed extract 41, 47, 50, 56
grapefuit essential oil 13
grapeseed oil 14, 34, 36, 53
gum
myhrr 56
H
healing soap 39
hempseed oil 14, 16
herb
arrowroot 60
azuki bean powder 26
basil 39
benzoin gum powder 17
calendula petals 14, 15, 16, 30, 56, 60
calendula powder 48, 61
chamomile flowers 14, 16, 26, 60
chamomile powder 48, 58, 61
comfrey root 16, 39
dill weed 41
goldenseal 56
lavender buds 15, 58, 60
lavender flowers 14, 60
lavender powder 61
lemon peel 13
neem leaves 16
neem powder 39
orange peel 13
peppermint leaves 42
rose petals 14, 60
rose powder 48
stinging nettles 16
tulsi 39
tumeric 39
I
illipe butter 12, 15, 16, 52
J
jojoba, MP 56 12
jojoba, MP56 58
jojoba oil 16, 18, 27, 37, 42, 47, 53, 54, 56, 57, 58, 59, 60
K
kokum butter 16, 26
kukui nut oil 47
L
lanolin 17, 52, 61
lavender buds 15, 58, 60
lavender essential oil 14, 15, 18, 48, 52, 57, 58, 60, 61
lavender flowers 14, 60
lavender powder 61
lecithin 52
lemon essential oil 13
lemon peel 13
lemongrass essential oil 36
M
mandarin essential oil 13, 26, 60
mango butter 11, 16, 37, 40, 58
meadowfoam oil 53
mica 11, 12, 26, 27, 50, 58, 60
milk
buttermilk 40, 43
goats 15, 33, 40, 41, 61
whole 38, 40
MP 56 12, 58
muslin bags 58
myhrr gum 56
myrrh essential oil 39
N
neem leaves 16
neem oil 16, 27, 37, 39
neem powder 39
neroli hydrosol 26
nutmeg butter 40
O
oatmeal
colloidal 46
coarse 51
fine 58
oat starch 60
oil
aloe vera 15, 18, 30, 50
apricot kernel 12, 17, 18, 47
avocado 16, 18, 41, 42, 47, 51, 59
avovado 12
borage 47
calendula 57, 58, 59, 60
camelina 57, 60, 61
canola 28, 29, 30, 39, 43, 45
carrot 47
castor 26, 28, 30, 35, 36, 37, 42, 43, 44, 45, 57
coconut 17, 18, 26, 27, 29, 30, 31, 32, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 50, 53, 57
emu 12, 14, 18, 37, 52, 57
evening primrose 47
flax seed 31
fractionated coconut 50
grapeseed 14, 34, 36, 53
hempseed 14, 16
jojoba 16, 18, 27, 37, 42, 47, 53, 54, 56, 57, 58, 59, 60
kukui nut 47
meadowfoam 53
neem 16, 27, 37, 39
olive
14, 15, 16, 26, 27, 28, 29, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 50, 53, 56, 59
palm 26, 27, 30, 31, 32, 34, 37, 38, 39, 42, 43, 44, 45, 47, 57
palm kernel 29, 42, 43, 48
peach kernel 12, 57
rice bran 52
rosehip 47
safflower 45
sesame 39
soybean 29, 35, 38
sunflower 26, 33, 34
sweet almond 12, 16, 17, 29, 30, 34, 36, 37, 43, 45, 47, 48, 56, 57, 59
virgin coconut 12, 52, 59, 61
wheatgerm 42, 47, 53, 59
olive oil
14, 15, 16, 26, 27, 28, 29, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 50, 53, 56, 59
orange essential oil 13
orange peel 13
P
palm kernel oil 29, 42, 43, 48
palm oil 26, 27, 30, 31, 32, 34, 37, 38, 39, 42, 43, 44, 45, 47, 57
paraffin wax 20, 21, 22
peach kernel oil 12, 57
peppermint essential oil 18, 42
R
rice bran oil 52
roman chamomile essential oil 14, 48, 59
rose bulgarian essential oil 48
rose essential oil 14
rose geranium essential oil 11
rose petals 14, 60
rose powder 48
rosehip oil 47
rosemary essential oil 27, 42
rosemary oil extract 42
S
safflower oil 45
sal butter 16, 37, 40
sandalwood essential oil 39
sesame oil 39
shea buter 30
shea butter 11, 15, 16, 18, 27, 40, 44, 45, 47, 53, 56, 57, 59
silk amino acids 37
skin type
acne 36
baby 14
cracked 18
difficult 36
dry 11, 16, 17, 31
healing 39
maturing 48
moisturizing 12, 15, 33, 36, 44
rough 15
soap
shaving 43
sodium hydoxide 27, 30, 32, 33, 34, 43
sodium hydroxide 26, 27, 28, 29, 31, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 57
sore muscles 18
soybean oil 29, 35, 38
spearmint essential oil 30
stearic acid 15, 54
stinging nettle 16
sunflower oil 26, 33, 34
sweet almond oil 12, 16, 29, 30, 34, 36, 37, 43, 45, 47, 48, 56, 57, 59
T
tallow 27, 28, 37
tea tree essential oil 15, 36, 42
tulsi 39
tumeric 39
V
vanilla essential oil 40
W
wax
bees 11, 12, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 22, 33, 42, 46, 50, 52, 53, 56, 58, 59, 60, 61
emulsifying 15, 54
gel 20
honeycomb sheets 20
paraffin 20, 21, 22
wheatgerm oil 42, 47, 53, 59
white kaolin clay 60
wick
zinc core 20
Z
zinc core wick 20