Assembling a PakCanoe 1

This is a revised form of the instructions provided by ScanSport with a PakCanoe, illustrated
with photos from my first try at assembling my new PakCanoe 150 on 7 June 2003. (Yes, I
assembled it indoors, in my bedroom!) Most text is drawn directly from Scan Sport’s docu-
mentation, along with some editorial comments from me.
See http://www.pakboats.com for PakCanoe (and Puffin kayak) ordering information.
Note Inflatable airtubes along the sides of the canoe offer flotation and stiffness. The assem-
bly instructions from ScanSport show how to install these; however, they were already
installed on my boat when it arrived, so I’m assuming that preinstallation is now standard
practice at Scan Sport, so I’m skipping that section.
Tip Don’t hesitate to step inside the canoe while assembling it. In fact, it’s often easiest to per-
form various steps while standing, squatting, or kneeling inside the canoe.

1 Unpack and assemble parts

Roll out the canoe. Assemble the shock-corded rods and sort them by length.

Arrange the other parts by size, off to the side.

2 Insert gunwales
The two longest rods (identified by red stickers) are gunwales. Starting from one end, insert a
gunwale into a sleeve in the canoe skin, along the top on either side. It helps to fold the tip of
the skin out of the way and to make the gunwale channel as straight as possible.

Repeat with the other gunwale rod.

Copyright © 2003 by Erin Vang. All rights reserved.

 1 Assembling a PakCanoe Fit the gunwale terminators 

3 Fit the gunwale terminators

Locate two small horseshoe-shaped parts marked with a red sticker: these are gunwale termi-
nators. Insert one end of a terminator into the end of a gunwale. Put the other end into the
other gunwale (it will barely go in at all). Spread the gunwales apart until the tube end aligns
with the gunwale terminator, then slip the terminator into place, making sure it goes all the
way in. It helps to stand inside the gunwale and spread the gunwales with your thighs while
doing this.
Pull the canoe skin up and around the terminator. The gunwale terminator must be centered
between the gunwale channels, or else the assembled canoe will be warped and the endcaps
will not fit properly.

Repeat the process at the other end of the canoe.

4 Build keel assembly

The shortest straight rod is the keel. Set this in the center of the boat.
The curved parts with metal forks are stems. Insert the narrow end of one stem into one end
of the keel rod. Lift the gunwales and clip the center of the gunwale terminator onto the top
of the stem.
 1 Assembling a PakCanoe Insert yellow then blue chines 

Repeat this process on the other end of the canoe.

Note The keel is slightly shorter than you might expect. Attach it loosely to the stem on
either end; do not shove it fully onto either stem. This “slack” is necessary for reducing the longi-
tudinal skin tension to enable installation and removal of the stems to/from the gunwale ter-
minators.

5 Insert yellow then blue chines

The two longest remaining rods, identified by yellow stickers, are chines. The ends of the
chines fit onto the forks (also marked with yellow stickers) of the keel stems closest to either
end of the canoe. Attach a chine at one end, arc it, and attach the other end. Push the center
of the rod down and to the side to rest inside the canoe skin.

Repeat the process on the other side.

 1 Assembling a PakCanoe Partially inflate airtubes by mouth 

The next longest pair of rods, identified by blue stickers, are also chines. These go into the
forks closer to the center of the canoe in a similar manner.

6 Partially inflate airtubes by mouth

Unscrew the airtube valve caps counterclockwise to open the valves and inflate partially by
mouth. Inflating to a comfortable level of blowing pressure (unless you’re a professional horn
player, in which case you need to stop sooner) gives just enough longitudinal tension to aid
assembly. Close the valves by screwing clockwise.
 1 Assembling a PakCanoe Arrange cross ribs, narrowest at ends 

I consider the end of the canoe with the airtubes to be the stern; calling it the bow means the
bow paddler’s feet, paddle, and gear can get tangled in the tubes. It makes a better storage end!

7 Arrange cross ribs, narrowest at ends

Arrange the crossribs alongside the boat, with the narrowest ribs at either end…

…and with the widest ribs in the middle.

 1 Assembling a PakCanoe Prepare to install center rib 

8 Prepare to install center rib

Step into the boat and kneel facing the open side of the center latches. Hold the widest cross-
rib (the PakCanoe 150 has one center rib; the PakCanoe 140 and 170 have two identical cen-
ter ribs).

9 Attach center rib(s)

Tilt the top ends of the center rib away from you, and insert one end into the opening in the
gunwale channel, and press it up into the gunwale so that the C-clip snaps onto the gunwale.
Repeat on the other gunwale.
Now pivot the bottom part of the rib into the latches, spreading the keel and chines as needed
to line up the spacer clips and latches.

Secure the latches with the rubber bands that are installed around the latch rods. For a bomb-
proof connection, secure with cable ties instead of the rubber bands. Extra rubber bands are
found in the repair kit.
 1 Assembling a PakCanoe Insert airbag support rods between center rib(s) and airbags. 

Repeat with the second center rib (PakCanoes 140 and 170).

10 Insert airbag support rods between center rib(s) and airbags.

Slide one of the airbag support rods (with the black plastic end caps) behind the center rib(s)
into the groove between the lower air chambers (between the bags and the ribs, not between
the bags and the skin). Center the rod between the bow and stern.

Repeat on the other side.

11 Install remaining cross ribs

Working from center to stern, then from center to bow, install the rest of the cross ribs. The
process is the same, but it’s easier than with the center rods. The last ribs on either end can be
tricky, though.

12 Inflate airtubes by pump

Use the pump to inflate the airtubes the rest of the way. Insert the tip of a valve into the hose
on the pump, turn the tip and pump counterclockwise to open the valve, and pump to a fairly
firm level of inflation. Close the valves by turning clockwise.
 1 Assembling a PakCanoe Snap fabric end caps on 

13 Snap fabric end caps on

Snap the end caps on stern and bow as shown above. (I took photographer’s license to photo-
graph the pump after installing an end cap.)

14 Install seats
The widest legs are the rear seat legs. The middle-sized legs are the front legs. Install the seats
according to the type of boat and number of paddlers:
PakCanoe 140 (solo) Install the solo seat with the rear seat legs on top of the cross rib just
behind the center rib, and the front seat legs on the seat support rod in front of that cross rib.
PakCanoe 150 (solo) Clip the seat support rod to the rear of the center cross rib. Attach the
rear legs to the support rod and the front legs to the center rib.
PakCanoe 150, 160, or 170 (tandem) Clip the stern seat support rod to the rear of the 3rd
cross rib from the stern. Clip the bow seat to the rear of the 3rd cross rib from the bow. Attach
rear legs to the support rod and front legs to the cross rib.
The narrowest legs can attach to the front legs’ crossbrace for seated paddling…

…or to the same rib as the front legs for kneeling paddling.
1 Assembling a PakCanoe Install seats 

Strap the rear of the seat by running the long strap on seatback:
• behind the support rod
• under the keel
• over the support rod
• around the cross rib
• under the support rod
• back to the buckle
If it’s easier to see this in a picture, start with the yellow arrows and then finish with the
magenta arrows:

Tighten well. This strap holds the rear legs down, and it holds the seat support rod firmly
against the cross rib. Do not loop the strap several times around the keel and support rod, as this
will cause a bulge and potential abrasion spot under the keel.
Strap the front of the seat by running the narrower strap on seat’s crossbrace:
• in front of the cross rib
 1 Assembling a PakCanoe Attach knee pads 

• under the keel

• over the crossbrace
• under the cross rib
• back to the buckle
Tighten well. This strap holds the front legs down.

15 Attach knee pads

Wrap each knee pad around the cross rib in front of the seat, and strap the rear ends around
the cross rib behind the seat.

For knee pads in the bow of a PakCanoe 150, where the chines are closer together, it seems to
be necessary to trim the width of the foam kneepads slightly, or else they’re darned hard to
install.
 1 Assembling a PakCanoe Attach portage yoke (optional) 

16 Attach portage yoke (optional)

Portage yokes are optional. The seat in a solo canoe also makes a tolerably good portage yoke
for short carries. In big water, a portage yoke adds some support to the canoe frame.

17 Assemble the paddle(s)

18 Admire the finished boat!
Optional modifications 2
For best results:
• Work at room temperature with low humidity. Evaporating solvent cools down the adhe-
sive surface and may cause dew to form when relative humidity is high. Dew will prevent a
good adhesive bond.
• A well-ventilated area is essential due to the toluene fumes given off by the adhesive. (I had
two sliding glass doors open and a fan blowing fumes out.)
• The adhesive evaporates quickly, so keep it tightly capped when possible.

1 Attach D-rings to stern and bow for painter lines

D-rings are normally installed at the ends of PakCanoes to be attachment points for ropes. To
install, assemble the canoe, and place the D-ring patch on the outside of the canoe skin so that
it wraps around the stem in the middle of the straight part at either end.
Mark the outline of the patch on canoe skin. Use masking tape to make a circle about 1/4"
outside the markings. Coat the area inside the circle and the back of the patch itself with a
thin coat of repair-kit adhesive. Wait until the adhesive feels dry to the touch (no longer
tacky) and put the D-ring patch in place. Make sure there is good surface contact.

The bond will strengthen as the adhesive cures and will reach maximum strength after about
24 hours.

2 Add a keel strip for additional abrasion-resistance

Adding a keel strip will more than double the abrasion resistance along the entire length of the
keel. The keel strip can be installed either on the assembled canoe or with the canoe skin laid
down flat, bottom side up.
2 Optional modifications Add a keel strip for additional abrasion-resistance 

You will need:

• tape measure and pencil or pen
• scissors to shape ends
• masking tape
• 1-1/2" paintbrush (do not use the small brush in the adhesive can)
• empty, sealable, coffee can or jar (not too much wider than the paintbrush)
Using a tape measure to measure from the seams joining sides to bottom (not from the edge
of the waterproofing tape) and mark the centerpoint every foot or so along the keel line.
Place marks 1-3/4" from either side of the centerline.

Apply masking tape at the off-center marks along the entire length of the canoe bottom, leav-
ing a 3-1/2" wide exposed area along the keel line.
2 Optional modifications Add a keel strip for additional abrasion-resistance 

Make sure the exposed area and keel strip are completely clean and dry.
Trim one end of the keel strip material to the shape indicated on the diagram enclosed with
the keel strip kit (ignoring the dotted line). Use the dotted line (which corresponds to the end
of the black canoe bottom) to position the keel strip at the stern end.
Apply just enough adhesive to evenly cover the exposed surface of the hull and the backside of
the keelstrip, working on about 3' at a time.

When the adhesive feels dry and no longer tacky, promptly position the keel strip and press
down firmly, taking care to avoid bubbles and ripples. Make sure edges are well bonded. Any
bubbles should be punctured and pressed down. This part is hard!
2 Optional modifications Add a keel strip for additional abrasion-resistance 

Repeat on another 3' at a time until done. If you have a two-piece keelstrip, overlap the pieces
by a few inches.
Before you apply adhesive at the other end, determine the exact length needed, and shape and
position using the diagram as before.
Remove the masking tape.

The adhesive bond will strengthen over the next 24 hours, but the canoe can be used immedi-
ately upon finishing installation.
Rigging for use 3
1 Stow pump, patch kit, etc. inside duffle and strap into stern storage area
2 Attach painter lines to the D-rings on stern and bow
Laurie Gullion recommends bright yellow polypropylene rope: it floats, it’s easy to see, and is
plenty strong for lining (guiding an empty boat around hazards from the shore) and rescues.
Painter lines should be about the length of the boat.

3 Set unknotted rope bundles just inside the canoe

If you don’t unknot the bundles, the rope won’t float free and it won’t be useful during a res-
cue situation. Just coil it and set it inside the boat.

4 Lash backpacks, etc. to cross ribs

5 Secure lashpoint-latches with cable-ties for bombproof connections
6 Arrange gear to optimize trim and handling
Rapids For a rockered, highly maneuverable canoe, concentrate the load (including the pad-
dlers) near the center of the canoe and leave the ends light. Leaving the bow lightly loaded
also improves your ability to rise up over waves.
Flatwater A straight keel line gives the best tracking and speed. Distribute the load (including
paddlers) evenly along the length of the canoe.
River On a typical river with a mixer of flatwater and rapids, you can tune your canoe by
loading the gear in the midsection. Then sit close to the ends on flatwater for a straight keel
line and improved tracking. Kneel next to the thwarts for more rocker and improved control
in whitewater.

7 Attach a spray cover

Spray covers are available for PakCanoes 160 and 170. On wilderness trips in cold areas, these
help keep you comfortable in the rain and reduce the effect of wind. The cover does not turn
a PakCanoe into a decked boat, and the cover may not hold the weight of a big wave breaking
over the boat.
Disassembly and packing 4
1 Remove seat and fold legs
2 Remove endcaps
3 Open airtube valves
4 Remove cross ribs
First slip off elastic bands, then lift latch on locking clips. Pivot bottom of rib away from
latches. Unclip from the gunwales. (If the latch is hard to open, push the crossrib back into
locked position, then lift the latch clip end and pull the rib out.)
Stack the ribs by size.

5 Remove the airtube support rods, remove yellow and blue chines
Remove the airtube support rods. Remove the chines by arcing upward and slipping one end
off at a time.

6 Remove keel assembly

Slide the narrow stem sections further onto the keel rod to reduce longitudinal tension on the
skin. Now step on the stem and lift the gunwale terminator to unclip it from the stem. Repeat
on other end.

7 Remove gunwale terminators

Step inside canoe, spread the gunwales with your thighs, and slip the terminator off first one
gunwale and then the other. Repeat on the other end.

8 Remove gunwales
Make the gunwale as straight as possible, folding the canoe skin out of the way. Pull the first
gunwale out.
If they don’t slide easily, start from the other end, grasp the top of the gunwale sleeve’s skin
about six inches from the end of the gunwale, and push the end of the gunwale toward that
grasp. In that way work your way toward the center of the canoe. After you’ve gotten it about
a third of the way, you’ll probably be able to pull it the rest of the way. (Or, ScanSport recom-
mends using one rod to push out the other.)
Repeat on the other side. The second one should be easier.

9 Fold all rods

Start by folding in the center and working toward the ends.

10 Roll canoe skin

Lay out the canoe skin, bottom down. Fold the sides in toward the center to cover and protect
the air tubes. Do not fold the foam floor; folding the floor causes permanent creases. Place all
rods on the bow end of the skin (the side opposite the airtubes).
4 Disassembly and packing Roll canoe skin 

Roll the skin around the rods and secure with the strap.
 4 Disassembly and packing Place the roll in the duffle on the side with the strap 

11 Place the roll in the duffle on the side with the strap
12 Pack the other pieces a few at a time
13 Secure the duffle with rope or a large carabiner
14 Schlepp!

(Author’s self-portrait, taken hastily in the mirror while hoisting all 50lbs of the PakCanoe 150)
PakCanoe cheat sheet 5
Assembling a PakCanoe 
Unpack and assemble parts 
Insert gunwales 
Fit the gunwale terminators 
Build keel assembly 
Insert yellow then blue chines 
Partially inflate airtubes by mouth 
Arrange cross ribs, narrowest at ends 
Prepare to install center rib 
Attach center rib(s) 
Insert airbag support rods between center rib(s) and airbags. 
Install remaining cross ribs 
Inflate airtubes by pump 
Snap fabric end caps on 
Install seats 
Attach knee pads 
Attach portage yoke (optional) 
Assemble the paddle(s) 
Admire the finished boat! 

Disassembly and packing 

Remove seat and fold legs 17
Remove endcaps 
Open airtube valves 
Remove cross ribs 
Remove the airtube support rods, remove yellow and blue chines 
Remove keel assembly 
Remove gunwale terminators 
Remove gunwales 
Fold all rods 
Roll canoe skin 
Place the roll in the duffle on the side with the strap 
Pack the other pieces a few at a time 
Secure the duffle with rope or a large carabiner 
Schlepp! 