Chapter 16: Haircutting

Cosmetologists should have a thorough understanding of haircutting because haircutting

is a basic, foundational skill; it will build trust and loyalty between a stylist and her
clients; it allows you to duplicate an existing cut; and a good haircut will make
clients happy.

BASIC PRINCIPLES OF HAIRCUTTING

Reference Points
Reference points-points on the head where the surface of the head changes, such as the
ears, jawline, occipital bone, or apex; helps you find the balance within a design so that
both sides of the haircut turn out the same; used to establish design lines

The reference points are:

• Parietal ridge- widest area of the head; starts at the temples and ends at the
bottom of the crown; also referred to as crest area; found by placing the comb flat
on the side of the head
• Occipital bone- bone that protrudes at the base of the skull
• Apex- highest point on the top of the head
• Four corners- draw two diagonal lines (or cross two combs) across the apex of
the head-where they touch are the four corners; signals change in head shape; for
example, teo front corners represent widest points in the bang area
Areas of the Head (p. 345-346)

• Top-locate the parietal bone; the hair that grows on the top of the head lies
on the head shape
• Front- make a part or draw a line from the apex to the back of the ear;
everything that falls in front of the ear is the front
• Sides- includes all of the hair from the back of the ear forward, below the
parietal ridge
• Crown- the area between the apex and the back of the parietal ridge; on
many people this is the site of whorls or cowlicks; pay close attention to the
crown when haircutting
• Nape- back part of the neck; hair below the occipital bone; can be found by
making a horizontal line across the occipital bone
• Back-make a line from the apex to the back of the ear; the back is all the
hair that falls behind the ear
• Bang area- also known as fringe area; the triangular area that begins at the
apex and ends at the front corners

Lines and Angles (p. 346-347)

• Line- a thin continuous mark used as a guide

• Angle- space between two lines or surfaces that intersect at a given point;
important element in creating a strong foundation and consistency in haircutting

The two basic lines used in haircutting are straight and curved.

There are three types of straight lines:

• Horizontal lines- parallel to the horizon or floor; direct the eye from one side the
other; used to create one-length and low elevation haircuts and to add weight
• Vertical lines- up and down lines; perpendicular to the floor; remove weight to
create graduated or layered haircuts; used with higher elevations
• Diagonal lines- slanting or sloping direction; between horizontal and vertical;
used to create fullness in a haircut and to blend longer layers into shorter layers

Beveling and stacking- used with diagonal lines to create angles by
cutting the ends of the hair with a slight increase or decrease in
length
Elevation (p. 347)

• Elevation- also known as projection or lifting; the angle or degree at which a

subsection of hair is held or elevated from the head when cutting
• Sections- to divide the hair by parting into uniform working areas for control
• Subsections- smaller sections within a larger section of hair; used to maintain
control of the hair when cutting
• Part or parting- the line dividing the hair at the scalp; separating one section of
hair from another; creating subsections

Elevation creates graduations and layers and is usually described in degrees. In a blunt or one-
length cut there is no elevation (0 degrees). Elevations below 90 degrees build weight; elevations
of 90 degrees or higher remove weight or layer hair.

Cutting Line (p. 347-348)

• Cutting line- the angle at which the fingers are held when cutting the line that
creates the end shape; also known as cutting position, cutting angle, finger
angle, and finger position. The cutting line can be described as horizontal,
vertical, diagonal or by degrees.

Guidelines (p. 348-349)

• Guideline- also known as a guide; a section of hair that determines the length the
hair will be cut; located either at the perimeter (outer line) or the interior (inner
line); usually the first section cut when creating a shape
• Two types of Guidelines

Stationary guideline- does not move; all sections are combed to the
stationary guideline and cut at the same angle and length; used in
blunt cuts or haircuts that use overdirection (p. 349) to create length
or increase weight

Traveling guideline-also known as movable guideline; moves as the
haircut progresses; used when creating layers or graduated cuts

Overdirection (p. 349-350)

• Overdirection- combing a section away from its natural falling position (rather than
straight out from the head), toward a guideline; used mostly in graduated and layered cuts
to increase length in the design; for example, if you want hair to be longer toward the
front on a layered cut, overdirect to a stationary guide at the back of the ear
CLIENT CONSULTATION
A consultation is a conversation between the stylist and the client where the stylist finds
out what the client wants and then is able to offer suggestions and professional advice
about the most suitable haircut.

Face Shape (p. 351-352)

• To analyze the shape of the face, pull all the hair away from the face with a clip or
wrap the hair in a towel; look for the widest areas, the narrowest areas, and the
balance of the features *Remember that hair shrinks. Always cut wet hair ¼” to ½”
longer that the desired length; curly hair shrinks ½” to 2”.

Hair Analysis (p. 352)

There are four characteristics that determine the behavior of hair. They are: hairlines and
growth patterns, density, texture, and elasticity.

• Hairline- hair that grows at the outermost perimeter along the face, around the
ears, and on the neck
• Growth pattern- direction in which hair grows from the scalp; also referred to as
natural fall or natural falling position
• Wave pattern- amount of movement in a hair strand
• Hair density- number of individual hair strands on one square inch of scalp;
usually described as thin, medium, or thick.
• Hair texture- diameter of each hair strand; described as coarse, medium, or fine

see chart p. 353 for density/texture comparison

HAIRCUTTING TOOLS

• Haircutting shears- also known as scissors; mainly used to cut blunt or

straight lines in the hair; may be used to slide cut, point cut or implement other
texturizing techniques
• Texturizing shears- mainly used to remove bulk from the hair; sometimes
referred to as thinning shears, tapering shears, or notching shears; generally
the more teeth in a shear, the less hair is removed
• Razors- straight razors or feather blades are mainly used when a softer effect
on the ends of the hair is desired; comes in different sizes and shapes and with
or without guards

• Clippers- mainly used when creating short haircuts, short tapers, fades and flat
tops; may be used with or without guards; use for the clipper-over-comb
technique
• Trimmers- smaller version of clippers; also known as edgers; mainly used to
remove excess or unwanted hair at the neckline and around the ears and to
create crisp outlines
• Sectioning clips- variety of shapes, styles and sizes; made of metal or plastic;
usually use butterfly clips or duckbill clips
• Wide-tooth comb- mainly used to detangle hair
• Tail comb- mainly used to section and subsection hair
• Barber comb- mainly used for close tapers on the nape and sides when using
the scissor-over-comb technique
• Styling or Cutting Comb- referred to as all-purpose comb; used for most
haircutting procedures; can be 6 to 8 inches long; has fine teeth at one end and
wider teeth at the other
All About Shears (p. 354- 364)

Steel (p. 355)

• All professional haircutting shears are made of steel

• Primarily manufactured in Japan, Germany, and United States
• Rockwell hardness- the gauge that determines hardness of the metal a shear is
made from

Ideal number is 56 or 57

Higher than 63 is too hard or brittle to work with

Forged versus Cast Shears (p. 355)

• Cast- made by a process whereby molten steel is poured into a mold; less
expensive than forged shears BUT can shatter if dropped and cannot be rebent
because they are brittle
• Forged- made by a process of working metal to a finished shape by hammering or
pressing; more durable than cast; can be repaired if bent or dropped

Parts of a Shear (p. 356)

• Cutting edge- does the actual cutting

• Adjustment knob- makes the shears cut; pulls the blades together so hair does not
slide or fall between the blades
• Finger tang- gives pinky finger an additional contact point; pressure is relieved
• Ring Finger-hole- for ring finger not middle finger
• Thumb hole- bottom hole; when properly fitted it should only go to or slightly
over the cuticle
Shear Maintenance (p. 356-357)

• Daily Cleaning and Lubrication-use soft cloth saturated with scissor oil to clean
blades after every client; extends the life of the blade and reduces sharpening
frequency
• Daily tension adjustment and balancing- hold shears with adjustment knob
facing you and thumb handle in your left hand; with the shear perfectly straight,
lift up on the ring finger to open blades halfway; let ring-finger go; blades should
close to2/3 of the way or leave a1-2 inch gap at the tip; use the adjustment knob to
tighten or loosen the tension
• Weekly cleaning and lubrication- open shears to 90 degree angle; push paper
towel between pivot point; put in one or two drops of scissor oil; do not put oil
directly under adjustment knob
• Disinfecting shears- disinfect after each client by cleaning with soap and water
and then immersing in disinfectant spray; dry thoroughly; relubricate
• Sharpening shears- sharpen only as needed (not on a regular cycle)

Purchasing Shears (p. 358-360)

• Know how it was manufactured- forged is better than cast

• Ask about the quality of the steel- you want 440-A steel or higher
• Decide on the right blade edge- full convex gives smoothest cut and sharpest
edge
• Decide on the best handle design- full-offset or crane is the most anatomically
correct design; releases pressure and stress on the nerves and tendons of the hand
• Be sure the shears fit properly- consider purchasing shears with a finger-fitting
system or custom –fitted shears
• Hold the shears in your hands- make sure you get a 30-day trial period so you
can return them if they are not right
• Swivel thumb shears- provides great comfort and control
• Ask about a service agreement
• Ask about a warranty
• Analyze the cost of the shears
• Determine how many pairs of shears you need

Fitting the Shear Correctly (see p. 361-362)

Holding Your Tools

There are two important reasons to hold your tools properly:

1. A proper hold gives you the most control and the best results when cutting hair.
2. A proper hold helps you to avoid muscle strain in your hands, arms, neck, and
back.

Holding Your Shears

• Open your right hand and place the ringer finger in the finger grip of the still blade
and the little finger on the finger tang.
• Place the thumb in the thumb grip of the moving blade.
• Practice opening and closing the shears.

Holding the Shears and Comb

Practice the correct way to hold both tools. Putting down your comb will waste a lot of
time.

• Palming the shears

Remove your thumb from the thumb grip

Leave your ring and little finger in the grip and finger rest

Curl your fingers in to palm the shears which keeps them closed while you
comb (hold the comb between the thumb, index, and middle finger)
• Transferring the Comb

Comb a subsection into position

Once your fingers are in place at the cutting position, transfer the comb by
placing it between the thumb and index of your holding hand (the hand
holding the subsection)
Holding the Razor (p. 363)

METHOD A:
 open the razor so that the handle is higher than the shank.; place the
thumb on the thumb grip and the index, middle, and ring fingers on
the shank
 Place the little finger in the tang, underneath the handle
 When cutting a subsection, position the razor on the top of the
subsection, the part facing you, for maximum control

METHOD B:
 Open the razor until the handle and the shank form a straight line
 Place the thumb on the grip and wrap the fingers around the handle

*Practice palming the razor. Most accidents with razors happen while palming, not while
cutting. Keep a firm grip on the razor with the ring and little finger which keeps the open
blade from sliding and cutting your hand.

Holding the Comb (p. 363)

Both wide and fine teeth of a comb are regularly used when cutting hair.

• Wide teeth- combing and parting the hair

• Fine teeth- comb the section before cutting; provide more tension; useful for
cutting around the ears, dealing with difficult hairlines, and cutting curly hair

Tension- the amount of pressure applied when combing and holding a
subsection
 Control tension with your fingers
 Consistent tension important for an even cut
 Use maximum tension on straight hair when you want precision
lines
 Use less tension on curly hair to control shrinkage
 Use minimum tension around ears and on hairlines with strong
growth patterns
POSTURE AND BODY POSITION (p. 364-365)
The correct body position will help you move more efficiently during the haircut and help
you maintain more control over the process.

• Position the client- make sure your client is sitting up straight; legs should not be
crossed; you can move the client by turning the chair or by raising/lowering it
• Center your weight- keep your body weight centered and firm; keeps knees
slightly bent not locked; keep both feet flat on the floor when sitting
• Work in front of your section- stand or sit directly in front of the area you are
cutting

Hand positions for Different Angles

• Cutting over your fingers- most often used when cutting uniform or increasing
layers
• Cutting below the fingers-most often used when cutting a blunt cut or graduated
haircut
• Cutting palm-to-palm- most often used when cutting a vertical or diagonal line;
palms of both hands are facing each other; helps prevent strain on your back as
you work

SAFETY IN HAIRCUTTING (p. 365-366)

• Always palm the shears and razor when combing or parting the hair
• Do not cut past the second knuckle when cutting below your fingers
• Take extra care not to cut the ears when cutting around them
• When cutting fringe, balance the shears by placing the tip of the index finger of
your left hand on the pivot screw and the knuckles of your left palm against the
skin
• When working with a razor, learn with a guard
• Discard razor blades in a puncture proof container
BASIC HAIRCUTS (p. 366-370)
Every haircut is made up of one, two, or three of these basic techniques. Add a little
texturizing, slide cutting, or scissor-over-comb, and you have advanced haircutting.

• Blunt cut- also known as one-length cut, zero-elevation cut, or no-elevation

cut; all hair comes to single hanging level, forming a weight line; cutting line can
be horizontal, diagonal, or rounded; cut with a stationary guide; excellent for fine
or thinner hair types (appears thicker)
• Graduated Haircut- a graduated shape or wedge; caused by cutting the hair
with tension, low to medium elevation, or overdirection; most common elevation
is 45 degrees; there is a visual build-up of weight in a given area; the ends of the
hair appear to be stacked
• Layered haircut- caused by cutting hair with higher elevation (usually 90 degrees
and above); usually have less weight than a graduated haircut; ends of hair appear
farther apart; layers create movement and volume by releasing weight; may be
created with a traveling guide, a stationary guide or both
• Long-layered haircut- cut at 180 degree angle; gives more volume to haircuts;
can be combined with other basic haircuts; shorter layers on top and increasing
longer layers toward the perimeter
More Basic Haircut Information (p. 366-370)

• Blunt cut- also known as bob, one-length, pageboy, one-level, or bowl haircut;
looks simple but requires precision

Client’s head should be upright and straight

Performed by wither holding the sections between the fingers or using the
comb to hold the sections with little or no tension

Watch the danger zones:
 Crown- look to see growth pattern; may want to cut last or cut
slightly longer than guideline; once hair is dry, you can see where it
falls and match length to the guideline
 Ears- keep an even cutting line; use very little or no tension unless
working with shorter layers

Can be designed with our without bangs, on straight or medium hair, and
with a short, medium, or long length
• Graduated Cut- use a vertical cutting line and a 45 degree elevation; you can use
with a center part, side part, or bang; you can use a stationary or traveling
guideline
• Uniform-Layered (90-degree) cut- uniform layers; all hair is elevated to 90
degrees from the scalp and cut at the same length; uses an interior traveling
guideline; resulting shape will appear soft and rounded

OTHER CUTTING TECHNIQUES (p. 371-380)

• Cutting curly hair- you can apply any cut to curly hair, but you will get very
different results than you get cutting straight hair

Curly hair shrinks as it dries, resulting in a weight line that has graduated
itself even higher
• Cutting the bangs (fringe)- bangs and fringe mean the same thing; the area that
lies between the two front corners

Bangs are cut using a stationary guide at 90 degrees straight up from the
head form

Sometimes you may only cut a few pieces in the bang area; a bang can be
blended or not
• Razor cutting-gives a softer appearance than a shear cut; great option for medium
or fine textured hair; gives a feathered effect on the ends

Any cut done with shears can be done with a razor

Two methods for razor cutting:
 Razor kept parallel to subsection; used to thin the ends; entire
blade is used
 Razor held at an angle (45 degrees); use 1/3 of blade to make
small strokes
• Slide cutting- method of cutting or thinning the hair in which the fingers and
shears glide along the edge of the hair to remove length; useful for removing
length, blending shorter lengths to longer lengths, and texturizing; good for
layering very long hair and keeping weight at the perimter
• Scissor-over-Comb- also known as shear-over-comb; a barbering technique used
by cosmetologists; hold the hair in place with the comb and use the tips of the
shears to remove length

Best used on dry hair
• Texturizing- the process of removing excess bulk without shortening the length;
can be used for effect within a haircut; may be used to add or reduce volume, to
make hair move, to blend one area into another or to compensate for different
densities on the same head of hair

Texturizing with shears (p. 376-377)
 Point cutting- performed on the ends of the hair using the
tips or points of the shears; may be done on wet or dry hair;
the more diagonal the angle of the scissors, the more is taken
away and the chunkier the effect
 Notching- a version of point cutting; more aggressive and
creates a chunkier effect; may be done on wet or dry hair
 Free-hand Notching-uses the tip of the shears; do not slide,
simply snip out pieces of hair at random intervals; works well
on curly hair (releases curl and removes some density)
 Slithering- also known as effilating; thinning hair to gradual
lengths with shears; sliding movement; reduces volume and
creates movement
 Slicing- removes bulk and adds movement; may be
performed on the surface or within a subsection; should be
done on dry hair for surface slicing; may be done on wet or
dry hair for subsection slicing
 Carving- version of slicing that creates a visual separation in
the hair

Texturizing with the Razor (p. 378)
 Removing weight- thins out the ends of hair; may be done on
damp hair; may be used on any area of the hair where the
effect is desired
 Free-hand Slicing- may be used throughout the section or at
the ends; done on wet hair; releases weight from th3e
subsection allowing it to move more freely

Texturizing with Thinning Shears and Razor (p. 378-379)

 Removing Bulk- also known as thinning; follow the same
sectioning as the haircut
 Removing bulk from the ends- works well on many hair
textures; it helps taper the perimeter of both graduated and
blunt cuts
 Scissor-over-Comb with thinning shears-useful for
blending weight lines on fine textured hair; can be used on
thick and coarse textured hair that is cut very short; helps hair
lie closer to the head
 Other thinning shear techniques- any texturizing technique
that can be performed with regular haircutting shears may
also be performed with thinning shears
 Free-hand slicing with razor-use on the ends of the hair to
produce a softer perimeter or create separation throughout the
shape
 Razor-over-comb-the comb and razor are used on the
surface of the hair; softens weight lines and causes the hair to
lie closer to the head; used mainly on shorter haircuts; great
technique for tapering in the nape area or softening weight
lines
 Razor rotation- similar to razor-over-comb; the difference is
you make small circular motions
CLIPPERS AND TRIMMERS (p. 380-383)

• Clippers- electric or battery operated tools that cut the hair by using two moving
blades held in place by a metal plate with teeth; used mainly for cutting shorter
haircuts or to create a taper

Taper- hair that is cut very short and close to the hairline that
gradually gets longer as you move up the head
• Clippers can be used as follows:

Without length guards to remove hair completely

Without length guards to taper hairlines from extremely short
lengths into longer lengths

With length guards for short, layered cuts

Tools for Clipper Cutting (p. 381)

• Clippers- come in different sizes; may be used with or without attachments;

trimmers (also called edgers) are smaller-sized clippers
• Length guard attachments- allow you to cut hair evenly to an exact length
• Haircutting shears- used mainly for removing length and detailing the haircut
• Thinning shears- also called blending or tapering scissors; used to remove
excess bulk and for blending one area into another
• Combs- wider teeth are for combing and cutting; finer teeth are for detailing and
over-the-comb techniques

Basic Clipper Techniques (p. 382)

• Clipper-over-comb- allows you to cut hair very close to the scalp and create a flat
top or square shape; more accurate when used on dry to slightly damp hair; the
angle at which you hold the comb determines the amount of hair that is removed
• Clipper cut with attachments- quick and easy way to create short haircuts

Using Trimmers (p. 383)

• Use to cut a clean line around the ears and neckline

• Maybe used to trim beards and mustaches as well