Carbohydrate Loading Keep

Foreword
   The sport of cockfighting has existed for hundreds of years, but like most sciences, more progress
has been made in the past fifty than all those preceding years. The average cocks of today could
defeat those cocks bred and fed in the 1920's. Why? For the same reasons human beings today
are stronger, bigger and faster than their grandparents: breeding and feeding. Great strides have
been made in genetics and nutrition in the past fifty, and particularly, the last twenty years.
Consequently, average life expectancy, general health, and size have increased by leaps and
bounds. In the animal world horses run faster, cows produce more milk and beef, hens lay more
eggs, and so on.

   Cockers of today are more knowledgeable and generally better educated, with more available
information, than ever before. But, while most cockers are great students of experience, as a rule,
they do little to actually study genetics and nutrition with an eye toward improving the ability and
performance of their fowl. This conditioning method is an attempt to enable many cockers to "catch
up" with the latest scientific developments in nutrition and training.  The research, the studying, and
the experimentation have been done for you. This keep can work for you.

   I have read dozens of keeps, and while I have not seen one written in the last ten years that
would actually be detrimental to your fowl, most have been fairly similar as to feed and work. You
will find that this keep is different in its approach, than any you have ever used. To be successful,
you must follow this keep closely, in quantity of feed and work, and in type of feed and timing.

   This conditioning method is based on the latest studies concerning athletic competition, and what
are cocks except athletes? The principle behind it is known as "carbohydrate loading". To
understand fully how this keep works, you should know a little about nutrition and its effects. So you
can understand the ideas involved, I will try to simplify them.

   The amount of energy that a muscle will be able to produce depends on the amount of "glycogen"
stored in that muscle. Glycogen is a chemical that serves as fuel for the muscle. The more glycogen
present in the muscle, the longer that muscle will be able to act effectively. Studies have shown that
if glycogen stores are depleted by exercise and a low carbohydrate diet, then replaced by rest and
a high carbohydrate diet, the muscle can store twice as much glycogen, or energy, as it had
originally. No one needs to tell you what this means in practical terms: your cock will hit harder, and
more importantly, will be able to do it much longer than he would have otherwise. He will maintain
that deadly punch for a greater period of time. I will explain about carbohydrates, proteins and fats
in more detail when we get to the subject of feed.

   Finally, let me say that this is the closest thing to a workingman's keep that you can find. It does
not require 12 hours a day to be effective. The maximum time needed would be I to 2 hours in the
morning and the same in the evening. The quantity of the time spent with your show of cocks is not
as important as the quality of the time. Make sure that your time is well organized and efficient. This
keep does require good cocks in good health cocks that are well bred and have been fed and cared
for properly all their lives. There is no keep, and especially, no substance, that will make up for lack
of care. So if you bought this keep because you have been lazy your cocks are in poor health from
lack of care then you cannot expect this conditioning method, or any other, to do them any good.

 
Pre-Keep? What's That?
   My feeling on this subject is that our cocks should be in a pre-keep all their lives well fed, but at
approximate fighting weights, worm free and deloused. I hope you don't have cocks that are any
other way. I have fought cocks off strings, out of fly pens and out of holding pens with no
appreciable difference in performance when this keep is used for the last fourteen days. The
important thing to remember is that fowl are like people, in that they become bored with the same
surroundings. Whenever possible, rotate cocks on a regular basis from fly pens to holding pens to
string walks. This will keep the cocks active and alert and prevent them from becoming coop-stale.
Handle your cocks often, except in moulting season, to tame them and to determine their weights
so that their feed rations can be adjusted accordingly.

   I cannot overemphasize the fact that you should put up only those cocks that are gentle and well
mannered. Life is too short to fool with manfighters besides, it is my belief that most manfighters are
not truly game. However, don't confuse manfighters with nervous, high-strung fowl. Also, many
otherwise gentle cocks will hit back if mishandled or when they are becoming sharp during the
keep. Like boxers, cocks in training love to snap a few punches at an available target. In summary,
just let me say that if a cock doesn't gentle down, doesn't stop hitting or pecking when picked up,
after a week's gentle handling, don't consider him for a keep. Kill him, breed him (if you are a fool),
but don't put him up to fight.

   Since I am on the subject, I'll attempt to give you a good all around feed routine, as well as a
worming and delousing schedule. Your daily feed for fowl on your yard should consist of
approximately 55% carbohydrates, 15% protein, and 30% fat. Since most laying mash is 12% to
15% protein, you will need to supplement the protein, unless you use the 20 to 30% protein lay
pellets offered by some feed stores. A good all-around feed, and one that is as cheap as possible
without sacrificing quality, is one part scratch (which consists of cracked corn and wheat), one part
20% laying pellets and one part soaked oats. For those cockers in the less temperate areas,
substitute whole corn for scratch in the winter. Sure, you can buy more expensive feeds, but for a
good sound all-purpose feed, this mixture can't be beaten. As for supplementing protein, in
moderation, you can use "trout chow", fish meal, or even some high protein dog food such as
Gaines. But always remember use these in moderation. Because, after all, you are feeding
chickens, and the closer you stay to a natural diet, the better off you will be. A lot of fancy feeds will
just upset a fowl's digestion. The opinions on amounts and times of feeds would fill a book much
larger than this. Adjust your feed in accordance with the weight of the cock. Whether you feed once
or twice daily depends on so many variables, I wouldn't even begin to try to dictate to you climate,
types of pens, breeds of fowl. Go with what works best for you. One hint though, if you have rather
severe winters, make sure your cocks are fed as close to dark as possible, the more corn the
better, if this is a second feed. It has been my experience that a cock with a full crop can stand
those cold nights much better than one that is empty.

   As for worming and delousing get on a regular schedule. If you have string walks, change the leg
bands every Saturday or Sunday or whatever, just do it regularly. The same goes for worming and
delousing. Fowl should be wormed and deloused every month. In fact, I often delouse and worm
any time I have an occasion to catch one of my fowl running loose on the yard. Any number of good
products are available for getting rid of lice. Several are advertised in your gamefowl journals and I
have heard good comments about most all of them. Most farm and feed stores carry a brand of lice
powder. I know some cockers who use Black Leaf 40 to delouse, often with a chemical dip, but I
don't advise this. I know of one prominent cocker who completely submerged all his battle cocks in
a delousing solution way over 100 of them. By the time he had finished the last one, he looked
back, and the first ones were beginning to fall over. He lost every single treated cock that day, and
although he is beginning to win again this year, it took him three years to regain his previous
position. So I don't recommend dips, nor do I recommend Black Leaf 40 for the amateur.

   The only worm medicine I can recommend is the Wormal product from Salsbury Laboratories. If
you follow directions on the bottle, Piperzine liquid wormer is okay too, especially for young fowl.
But remember, Piperzine only kills one type of worm, the roundworm, while Wormal will kill three
types of worms, including the roundworm. Don't be misled by sensational claims in the gamefowl
journals advertising a revolutionary new worm medicine. If a more effective worm medicine had
been discovered, believe me, the commercial poultry men would be using it. They're using Wormal,
and so am I. Some worms hatch on 10-day cycles, so to be safe, worm on Saturday, and then 10
days later. After that, follow your monthly schedule to control worms. Just remember that worms,
like lice, can never be completely eliminated, just controlled.

Vitamins: Myth or Magic?

   The truth about the effects of vitamins actually lies somewhere in between. I have had to rethink
my position on vitamins recently. Three years ago, I, along with most scientists, doctors and
nutritionists, felt that all the vitamins a person needed were contained in a well-balanced diet. 'Using
vitamin and mineral supplements was just paying for expensive urine, the body's way of discarding
unneeded vitamins. However, today most experts agree that extra vitamins can play an important
role in any serious training program, as long as massive doses are not used. It is quite possible to
die from overdoses of vitamins vitamin D, for example. Certain vitamins such as C and B-12 are
water soluble, which means that the body does not absorb what it doesn't need, and one cannot
receive an overdose from these vitamins. So, in conclusion, let me say that although vitamins and
their effects are still not completely understood, it is clear that cocks under the physical strain of
intensive conditioning can benefit from an extra vitamin and mineral supplement, such as we advise
in this program.

Water, Water, Everywhere ...

   Every keep I have ever read mentions drying cocks out before they fight by limiting their water
intake. Some of the directions are moderate and some are radical. Cockers thirty or forty years ago
often gave their cocks no water for the last two days! In to-, day's fast-paced competition, I know of
no surer way to get them killed. Cocks need moisture in their bodies to convert glycogen to energy.
Exactly how much water a cock needs is determined by so many factors it is impossible to predict
with any certainty but I will say this, give your cocks all the water they will drink during the keep.
Believe me, the cocks are better judges of what they need than we are. In fact, in extremely cold
weather, you may want to encourage cocks to drink by giving them warm water or warm water
mixed with powdered milk. Always keep water by your cocks during the keep, up until 24 hours or
so before the fight, when you want to regulate every bit of their feed and water intake. Consider this
fact: when a cock loses 2% of his body weight in water, his ability to perform begins to deteriorate.
In other words, he is riot fighting up to his potential. Two percent of a 5 pound cock's weight is 1.6
ounces, a little over one and a half ounces. SO, if you bring a cock into a fight with all the moisture
he needs in his tissues, he has a much better chance. And that, my friend, is the name of the game.

   When pressed, most cockers will describe a cock on point" as a bundle of nerves, bobbing,
clucking, moving a cocked gun. I define a cock on point as being a cock that is ready and at the
peak of his health, strength and well-being. For years, I have corresponded with a prominent cocker
who has continually pressed this idea on me: "Fight your cocks when they are ready, not when you
are." This means taking cocks to the pit when they are at the peak of their mental and physical well-
being.

   "Pointing" is a natural thing. It is the end result of several contributing factors: the cock is empty,
he has been rested force rested, and he is sexually and physically frustrated from inactivity. As a
result of all these factors, his blood sugar level is way up, his energy is at its peak and he is not only
ready, he's anxious for an outlet, he wants to fight. Often a cock "on point" is described as "corky" to
describe a cock that is light and bobs like a cork on water. There is really no way to describe a cock
on point but I guarantee you'll know it when you feel him. This is not something to be taught, it must
be experienced.

Sparring
   Sparring can be a valuable tool for the cocker if done properly. First, it is a tool for selection it
allows the cocker to get some idea of how a cock will fight. Secondly, a cock can learn some things
during the course of a session, good habits as well as bad. Thirdly, sparring can be a valuable
outlet for a cock's pent-up energy, allowing him to vent his rage and delay his coming on point too
early.

   Some cockers use a catch cock and attempt to "teach" a cock to hit at a cock's tail even if he can't
see his head. Also, some cockers tie a catch cock's legs to see if he will score on a down cock. I am
doubtful if either of these practices does the slightest bit of good, because I think the
aggressiveness of the cock is determined in the brood pen.

   However, cocks, to a certain degree, can be taught to score quickly. This is the way.  First, bill
your cocks really well, flush them and set them down close together, close enough so they'll get at
one another very fast. Let them have a good pitting, enough to make them really mad, but don't let
them wallow and break feathers. After a 15 second rest, flush them and set them down about three
feet apart. Now, here is the important part: when the cocks break, catch them immediately. Then
without rest, set them down 5 feet apart, let them break and catch them. This time set them down 8
feet apart, let them break and catch them. Set them down again 8 feet apart and this time let them
mix it up good. The purpose of this type of sparring is simple: the cocks will begin to score more
quickly and break higher. Also, you are not giving them enough time to get tired and start ducking. If
you let cocks spar until they are very tired, they will learn to duck really quickly, and this habit must
be avoided.

Work
   To attain maximum condition, a cock must be worked, and worked hard. Not all this work should
be forced work, or hand-work-most of it should, in fact, be natural work, the kind a cock will do in a
good fly pen with litter. He will scratch and fly up and down many times a day, complementing the
handwork you give him. I feel that it is impossible to get a cock "muscle-bound" as some keeps
would allow you to believe. It is quite possible to make a cock sore and stiff by overwork. That is
why this method allows a cock to "rest up" from his conditioning program two full days before his
fight. This "rest" period serves several purposes. First, if the cock has sore or stiff muscles, this time
allows those muscles to regain their original elasticity, yet retain the strength that has been
developed. Secondly, blood sugar begins to rise with the decrease in work, beginning the pointing
process. Thirdly, it allows for the glycogen content in the muscles to increase.
   Some cocks will not be able to take the work of this conditioning program. That in itself should
give you some idea as to whether your cocks are really quality fowl. It has been my experience that
truly well bred cocks won't fold under the pressure of the work. Rather, they will rebound and thrive
on such activity, eager to work.

   While realizing that volumes could be written on this subject alone, I think that it is sufficiently
important to touch on at least the major points. In fact, I believe that the majority of 3-1 and 4-1
derby scores that you see can be attributed to the lack of attention that most cockers pay to this
chore. After all, your derby show is only as good as your worst cock. If you approach the selection
of your derby show with the attitude that "Well, this cock isn't so good, but maybe I'll get lucky and
meet another weak cock," then you might as well stay at home. Always select the best cocks you
have to condition.  Your first step in selecting is to examine the overall health of the cock. Eyes
should be bright, feathers slick and oily, and he should just give off an impression of active vitality.
Examine feet and legs for sores or bumbles, the breastbone for sores, and the mouth and head for
blisters. Check to make sure the cock is lice-free. He should, in your judgment, be within two
ounces of fighting weight. It would be difficult to take more than that off in two weeks without
weakening the cock, or put more than two ounces on with a rigorous training schedule. Check for
broken wing or tail feathers. Do not fight cocks with badly broken feathers. For a bent feather,
where the shaft is bent but not broken, carefully straighten the shaft, and apply a small piece of tape
to the feather. Usually, this will prevent further damage, at least temporarily.

    If, in your opinion, the cock is in good health and near his actual fighting weight, then set him
aside as a definite possibility. After you have narrowed down your selections to a workable number,
weigh them, match according to weights, and spar. This is where the real selection process takes
place. The good selector will be able to separate the duds from the aces, or at least the good cocks
from the poor ones.

   If possible, have two other people actually pit the cocks, so you can be free to observe. Watch
how the cocks move, where they are aiming their licks, how accurate they are. Are they well
balanced, do they land-.in position to hit again, do they have to have a bill-hold to hit, do they duck,
are their licks delivered with snap? During the rest periods, how hard are they breathing? Is either
rattling? The answers to these questions should determine your choices.

   How many cocks to actually put up is a decision you must make, although this may be determined
by the number of your available cocks. I would personally hesitate to enter a conditioning program
without at least two cocks more than were needed. For example, for a 5-cock derby, I would put up
seven or eight. If you put in two hard weeks of work on a show of cocks, it is heartbreaking to have
one of your cocks come down with a cold the day before the derby and have to miss it. Remember
Murphy's Law: if anything can go wrong, it will, and at the worst possible moment! So, be prepared.
I   can't tell you how many times this has happened to me. About three years ago I had up six stags
for a 5 stag derby. The morning before the derby I went to load my stags, and lo and behold, one
stag was beat up, slip-bill and bloody, and one other was missing! After much head scratching, I
finally-figured it out. What happened was this: the evening before the derby, one stag had gotten
out of his holding stall probably I hadn't latched it securely and immediately began to fight with the
closest stag through the door. When darkness fell, the stag that was loose had stopped fighting and
wandered outside (the door of the cockhouse was open for ventilation), into the woods-where he
either died or was eaten by varmints. To make a long story short, determined to fight in the derby, I
picked a stag off a string walk, loaded up and left. Know what happened? You guessed it. I won
four and lost one the substitute! I still tied for the derby, but that one fight cost me about $3,000 in
prize money. So don't let it happen to you put up enough cocks to make up for these emergencies.
 

Drugs and Supplements

   Most knowledgeable cockers will admit that there are many drugs and additives that can increase
the performance level of your fowl IF, and this is the big if you know how to select the correct drug,
administer the proper dosage, and give it at the proper time. A "drug", whether you realize it or not,
can be simply defined as any substance that can alter any one of the thousands of chemical actions
that take place in the body. Alcohol is a drug. So is aspirin. Since the use of drugs during the
conditioning process requires so much knowledge and experience in dosage, timing and the effects
of the drugs themselves I can only recommend the use of two drugs for the average cocker. These
two drugs are testosterone (male hormone) and vitamin B-12. All the successful cockers I know use
one or both of these, whether they will admit it or not.

   Testosterone, used in moderate and sensible doses, will help activate the pointing process by
stimulating certain functions of the body that relate to physical and mental development of the male
sex drive. Given in prolonged, massive doses (which you should never use), it will promote the
growth process, causing accelerated muscle and bone growth.

   Vitamin B-12 is a good, all-around the therapeutic drug. It promotes good appetite and soothes
the nervous system. You cannot overdose on B-12 because it is "water-soluble", meaning the body
passes off what it cannot use. In fact, some people swear by B-12 as a sure cure for a hangover! B-
12 is especially helpful in traveling cocks because it seems to calm them without any tranquilizing
effect.

   The use of these two drugs with this conditioning method is completely optional. If you are unsure
about administering them, then by all means, don't do it. Chances are, your cocks will do just as
well without them, especially if you have doubts about their usage. As you become better
acquainted with this method, you may want to try them later.

   If you decide to use these drugs, you must follow my directions on dosage and timing. This is very
important. I believe you should never give more than ¼ cc of any drug to a cock in keep.
Remember, a cock has a small body mass compared to humans, so dosages must be adjusted
accordingly. Always use a small gauge needle to avoid bruising or otherwise harming the tissue of
the cock. Give all injections in the breast muscle, not near a bone. The ideal needle seems to be
the disposable type used by diabetics. Most drug stores carry it and you won't need a prescription
to buy it. Just ask for insulin syringes. Never use one needle for two different drugs, and dispose of
the syringe after three or four injections.

   One cautionary note on the use of testosterone (male hormone) prolonged or often use of this
drug may cause the cock to be sterile later on. You see, by injecting the male hormone, the body's
natural production of testosterone may be discouraged. In other words, if you use this drug on a
cock in keep more than, say, four times a year, he won't lay eggs next year, but he might not be
fertile when bred to hens. So, don't use it more than a couple of times a year on any cock you
intend to breed. I don't usually breed battle cocks, so I don't have that problem.

   Since I don't want to promote anyone's products I won't recommend any particular supplier of
testosterone or B-12. You can obtain either drug from advertisers in the gamefowl magazines or
from a vet.

   As I said before, there are drugs that will produce incredibly sharp cocks, if given at the proper
times with the proper dosage, but if you make one error in using drugs, you will have incredibly dull
cocks at fight time. So, I think if you are a beginner and/or do not have a lot of experience and
knowledge, you are better off without the drugs. Remember, consistency is the key to an 80% win
average, and I guarantee consistency will be easier without the use of a number of drugs.

   At a later date, if the demand for such a book is sufficient, I will offer a complete guide to the use
of drugs on gamefowl. 

Traveling Cocks Next Stop, Sunset?

   There are as many theories about transporting cocks from Point A (your cockhouse) to Point B
(the pit), as there are Polish jokes. Common sense and a basic knowledge of fowl should be your
guides. Gamefowl sleep from dark until dawn, (The exception being, of course, when your mother-
in-law visits. Then they crow all night.) So, when you travel from Point A to Point B you want your
fowl to obtain the maximum rest; in other words, to sleep through the trip if possible. The logical
method, then, is to travel your cocks at night, allowing just enough traveling time to arrive at the pit
when your cocks would normally be waking up at dawn. If you live within a four to six hour drive of
the pit, and if that pit conducts its fights during the daytime, that's exactly what you want to do.

   If you insist on traveling your cocks to a pit more than 8 hours away, you must realize that you are
facing a number of problems and you are placing yourself at a distinct disadvantage with the other,
closer entries. If you really want to fight at Sunset and it's 1000 miles away, my advice is:

1. Condition at the pit.

2. Fly your cocks down on a chartered plane.

3. Move to Louisiana.

   If you plan to haul your cocks more than 8 hours at a stretch forget it. You are not going to
compete on an equal basis with any local cocker at the pit, even if your cocks are better than his.
Ever wonder why it's so tough to whip a guy on his own turf? Think about it. With the number of fine
local pits in the country, it shouldn't be necessary for anyone to travel that far to enter a derby.

   If you fight at night, take heart. All the other entries do, too. Personally, I don't think you gain
anything by moving your cocks to the pit a day early. The fact that the cocks are in strange
surroundings will nullify any advantage you achieve by hauling them at night. The best you can do
is hauling them as empty as possible and hope for the best. Let me add a piece of advice here.
Whenever possible, haul cocks empty or at least when their crops have been emptied. If they are
traveled with feed in their crops, they will not digest this feed and it will often sour.

The Keep Feed

    As was mentioned previously, the principle behind this conditioning method is "carbohydrate
loading". To accomplish this, we must feed a low carbohydrate-high protein feed up until the last
two days of the keep when the "loading" process begins. To "load" a cock, work will be dropped off
and the cocks will be fed a high carbohydrate diet to increase the amount of glycogen in their
muscles. Although this all sounds complicated, it really isn't as you'll see when we' get into the feed
and work.
   The whole point of a keep is to put as much feed through a cock as possible without increasing
his weight. We want to avoid upsetting the fowl's digestion at all cost, so we will only feed natural
feed during the keep feed that is a regular part of a chicken's diet or feed specifically formulated for
a chicken. To insure proper digestion, a fowl must have good, hard grit to help grind his feed'.
Granite grit, not oyster shell, must be available to your cocks at all times. The best way to provide
the grit is to keep  cup of it in your fly pens. You may even want to mix a handful in your cocks' feed
during the first week of the keep.   Make sure all your feed is both fresh and clean. Musty and dusty
feed will throw your cocks off completely, if necessary, wash the feed before mixing it.

Your regular keep feed should include the following:

Oat groats (not whole oats, they will often constipate cocks).

Corn (hard flint corn is best).

Racing pigeon feed (the mixed feed, not Pigeon chow).

Laying pellets (at least 20% protein, but 30% is better).

Chopped boiled eggs (about one-third per cock).

Buttermilk (unsalted is the best).

Cottage cheese (unsalted if you can get it).

   To mix your feed, use a large bowl, shallow enough to stir the ingredients. Put in two parts pigeon
feed, one part corn, one part oat groats and one part lay pellets. Mix well and add the correct
amount of chopped hard-boiled eggs. Never feed raw eggs, the whites coat the intestinal tract and
hamper digestive absorption. When this is thoroughly stirred, add enough buttermilk or cottage
cheese to moisten the entire feed. Alternate between cottage cheese and buttermilk for moisture.
Both are beneficial because they are high in protein and provide needed bacteria for digestion. Mix
no more than one day's feed at a time and store in a refrigerator so that it will remain fresh. This is
the feed you will use up until the last two days of the keep. For the last two days, you will use
scratch grain (chopped corn and wheat), lightly moistened with water. Each feed, morning and
evening, will consist of approximately 1 1/2 ounces of the mixture, except where noted. Remember
treat all cocks as individuals. No two are alike. I can't emphasize this fact enough. This is especially
true when it comes to the amounts of feed. The 11/2 ounces is merely a guide cocks should be
weighed each morning and evening and feed adjusted accordingly. Weight control is something you
must pay close attention to, and it is something you must learn by trial and error. It simply can't be
taught. The best advice I can give you is this. Hold a cock in your hands and feel back toward the
vent, between the end of the breastbone and the pelvic bones. The flesh there should be thin and
firm. It should not bulge; if it does, the cock is fat. Don't hesitate to skip a feed or two if the cock
doesn't show a good appetite and willingness to clean his feed cup. Don't be surprised if the cocks
drop an ounce or so during the first few days of the keep. This is natural they should rebound soon
and be trying to peck the bottoms out of their feed cups.

   After the feed is measured into the cups, I sprinkle a little vitamin supplement over the feed
mixture. You can use any number of products for this Vitapol and Headstart are two products I have
used with good success. Both are available from the gamefowl journals or most good feed stores.
This supplement should be used up until the last two days.
 

The Work
   As I have stated before, there is no substitute for good, hard work in a training program.
Handwork for the cocks will consist of "flys" to the board. Your work board should be approximately
waist-high, lightly padded and out of view of the other cocks to keep them from being excited. To
train a cock to the board, stand a couple of feet from the bench and lightly toss him to it. Rub him
and repeat the process. Soon he will get the idea and will willingly fly to the board, even straining
against your hands, from as far away as 8 feet. About six feet is the ideal distance to have the cock
fly to the board. Just hold him under the wings, back up, and let him go. This is the work I refer to as
"flys".

   After cocks are hand-worked and fed each morning, place in fly pens with clean litter. Make sure
fresh water is always available to the cocks while they are in the flypens. In the evenings, bring the
cocks into the cockhouse, work them, and then place them in their keep stalls. It is a good idea to
always allow the cocks ten minutes or so to cool off before feeding. Allow cocks ample time to drink
after feeding-up until the last day. 

Work and Feed Schedule

Day Actions
Day 1 - (Sunday) Morning: Spar cocks when empty, put in keep stalls. Evening: Worm and delouse.
No feed today.
Day 2 - (Monday) Morning:  10 Flys       Evening:  10 Flys
Day 3 - (Tuesday) Morning:  20 Flys       Evening:  20 Flys
Day 4 - (Wednesday) Morning:  30 Flys       Evening:  30 Flys
Day 5 - (Thursday) Morning:  40 Flys       Evening:  40 Flys
Day 6 - (Friday) Morning:  50 Flys       Evening:  50 Flys
Day 7 - (Saturday) Morning:  60 Flys       Evening:  60 Flys
Day 8 - (Sunday) No work today. No morning feed. Spar about 10:00 a.m., then place in fly pens.
No work in the evening. Regular feed. If you are using the drugs, give ¼ cc of testosterone and ¼
cc of B-12.
Day 9 - (Monday) Morning:  50 Flys       Evening:  50 Flys
Day 10 - (Tuesday) Morning:  60 Flys       Evening:  60 Flys
Day 11 - (Wednesday) Morning:  50 Flys       Evening:  50 Flys
Day 12 - (Thursday) Thursday Morning: No work. Feed scratch grain, moistened with water for next
two days. Place in fly pens. Evening: No work. Same feed as morning.
Day 13 - (Friday) Morning: No work. Take cocks out of keep stalls, handle and rub, then return and
feed. Darken stalls. Evening: If cocks are to be fought Saturday feed three-quarters of the regular
amount. If fight is Saturday night, feed a full feed. Give ¼ cc of B-12 and ½ cc of testosterone.
Day 14 - (Fight Day) Morning: If fight is during the day, no feed. If the fight is at night, feed three-
quarters of the regular amount.

During the last two days of the keep, you must begin to regulate moisture intake to insure the
proper pointing process. Watch the droppings carefully they should be moist but firm, not dry.

 
D-Day at the Pit

   Your first chore upon arriving at the pit is to secure a cockhouse, preferably one that can be
darkened completely. Clean out all stalls you intend to use and replace the old litter with fresh. After
this is done, one by one put your cocks out in small (approximately 21 x 21) wire pens to stretch
and empty out after their trip. Make sure the ground is swept clean under the pens. If the pit weighs
in derby entries, take each cock and weigh him in before putting him in the cockhouse. To avoid
searching, it is a good idea to write down the leg band number and/or weight on the door of each
stall as the cock is placed in it. Completely darken the cockhouse, and avoid disturbing the cocks
until it is time to heel.

   If the pit allows you to weigh and record your own weights, you can gamble some. Obviously, you
want your cocks to meet the smallest (lightest) cocks possible so you can "under-weigh" your cocks
as much as you dare. I have known cockers that would weigh their cocks in two ounces light,
hoping they would lose that much between then and fight time. (I have also seen cockers have to
cut every feather except wings and tail off the cock to meet weights, too). So, to be safe, record
your cocks at least one-half ounce light on your sheet because the cocks will lose at least that
much.

The End
  The most important thing you can learn when you are conditioning cocks is that each show
represents a new set of difficulties, a different series of problems. Be flexible, use your common and
"chicken" sense. But remember, above all, you must have good cocks to win. There is no substitute
for quality fowl or for quality care. To be in the winner's circle, you must have both. If problems
arise, you can email me and I will do my best to answer your questions.