SABYASACHI MUKHERJEE

Born in the year 1974, Mukherjee is a noted Indian fashion designer from Kolkata. Since
1999, he has been selling designer merchandise using label 'Sabyasachi'. Mukherjee is
one of the Associate Designer Members of Fashion Design Council of India and the
youngest board member of the National Museum of Indian Cinema. He has designed
costumes for Bollywood films such as Guzaarish, Babul, Laaga Chunari Mein
Daag, Raavan,English Vinglish etc.

PERSONAL LIFE
Sabyasachi Mukherjee comes from a middle class Bengali family of Kolkata. His mother,
Sandhya Mukherjee worked at Government Art College, and was deeply into
handicrafts. Mukherjee wanted to study at NIFT. But his parents wanted him to become
an engineer, as they couldn't understand how a course in designing clothes can help him
in future career, and hence they refused to fund his admission into NIFT. Sabyasachi
sold his books to pay for the admission form and passed the exam. After his graduation,
he opened a workshop and started his career from there.

DESIGN VIEWPOINT
Sabyasachi's design philosophy is ‘Personalized imperfection of the human hand’.
Deserts, gypsies, prostitutes, antique textiles and cultural traditions of his home town
Kolkata, have been a lifelong inspiration for this designer who believes that ‘Clothes
should just be an extension of one's intellect’. He uses unusual fabrics, texturing and
detailing, 'fusion' of styles, 'patch-work' with embellishments in vibrant colors. His
creations evoke images of ancient and medieval ages. He describes his own collections
as 'An International styling with an Indian soul’. In the designs, he tries to maintain a
non-commercial balance in an extremely aggressive, commercial and competitive
industry. His collection is for people who prefer to walk a path less traveled and who
definitely believe that slowing down is not equivalent to dropping out.
His signature style is originality, as he moves between stunningly crafted bridal wear
and perfectly structured western statements. The designer draws his inspiration from
art such as the colourscapes of French impressionists like Monet and Henry Matisse in
his clothes.
He pioneered the use of Indian textiles in a modern context. His unique contribution
was the use of indigenous methods like bandhani, gota work, block printing,
hand dyeing etc. in construction of modern silhouettes.
.
Life and career
Summer of 1999, Sabyasachi Mukherjee graduated from the National Institute of Fashion
Technology India with three major awards. Four months later, Sabyasachi started his
homonymous label which began with a workforce of three persons. Over the years, he has built
a clothing brand which has a strong social perspective.
In 2001, Sabyasachi won the Femina British Council’s most outstanding young Designer of India
award, which took him to London for an internship withGeorgina von Etzdorf, an eclectic
designer based in Salisbury. Returning home with edgier ideas, Sabyasachi started retailing at
all major stores in India.
2002, Sabyasachi participated at the India Fashion Week where his debut collection earned him
positive reviews from the national and international press. On a cover by Women's Wear Daily,
he was reckoned as the future of Indian fashion.[citation needed] Spring of 2003, Sabyasachi made
his debut on the international runway, with the “grand winner award” at the Mercedes
Benz New Asia Fashion week in Singapore, which paved his way to a workshop in Paris by Jean
Paul Gaultier and Azzedine Alaia. His collection "Kora" at the Lakme Fashion Week 2003 won
him laudatory reviews where he used unbleached and hand woven fabrics with Kantha and
other hand embroideries. He was declared the best Designer of India at the MTV Lycra style
awards and won the “Society” Achievers award for the best new Indian designer.
In 2004, Sabyasachi took a step ahead with Kuala Lumpur Fashion Week and The Miami Fashion
Week with a bohemian take on Indian textiles and his collection was called "The Frog Princess".
His significant achievements included his coveted showing in Browns earning him a retail place
at the tiny London store voted by Vogue as the best shopping destination in the world, thereby
establishing himself as one of the most promising young designers for years to come.
He earned the distinction of being the only Indian designer to be invited to showcase at
the Milan Fashion Week 2004 facilitated by Indo-Italian Chamber Of Commerce. Along with
accolades, he was also voted by Asia Inc. a Singapore based Business magazine as one of the
ten most influential Indians in Asia, alongside Aishwariya Rai, Priyanka Gandhi, Sabeer
Bhatia…etc.
In 2005, his spring-summer collection, "The Nair Sisters" was inspired by hand block
printing, embroideries, bagru prints and the extensive use of cotton and other hand woven
fabrics. The collection was sold at Browns & Selfridges in London. He was requested to
showcase his collections at the prestigious Oxford University annual black tie charity dinner
fashion show.
2006, Sabyasachi’s debut Spring Summer collection’07 at New York Fashion Week earned him
critical acclaim and his label started selling world-wide. The essence of this collection was based
on folklore, glamour, simplicity, modern architecture and intricate detailing. There was a
marked influence of paintings from the seventeenth and eighteenth century
likeBrueghel[disambiguation needed], Claude Monet and others. He used dark jeweled colors with
muted shades accentuated with subtle texturing and indigenous embroidery. He is the only
Indian designer to be a part of all three leading fashion weeks: New York, Milan and London.
Sabyasachi believes that the unique positioning of Indian designers is due to the exclusivity of
his homeland with its rich history and culture. He believes that Indian designers bring a flavor to
the west that is no longer perceived as only exotic but also a rich blend of individuality and
sensitivity.
2007, Sabyasachi participated at the New York and at the London Fashion Weeks plus Bridal
Asia 2007, Lakme India Fashion Week and the Vogue Launch event in India. His “Sanctuary”
collection showcased at Lakme Fashion Week Fall Winter 08 received positive reviews from the
fashion editor of the New York Times, Suzy Menkes.
The designer made his debut to the Cannes Film Festival in the year 2011.
Sabyasachi closed the third edition of PCJ Delhi Couture Week (August 8–12, 2012) with his
New Moon collection inspired by the flavours of five cities of the world- straitjacket discipline of
New York, the nostalgia of the British Raj in Kolkata, the subversive decadence of Berlin, the
romanticism of Paris and bohemian flair of Barcelona. Bollywood star Sridevi was the
showstopper & walked the ramp for the designer in a sari.]The designer is showcasing this
collection in UAE as well.
Recently, the designer styled a calender for which Bollywood actress Neha Dhupia dressed up
as famous painter Frida Kahlo.whose has been the designer's inspiration for the Grand Finale at
WIFW Autumn-Winter 2011 where the models walked the ramp wearing Frida Kahlo-esque
rose headbands and wire-rimmed glasses.

Revival Creativities
Mukherjee started a project called SAVE THE SAREE where he retails hand-woven Indian sarees
on a non-profit basis priced at 3500 & the entire proceed goes to the weavers
of Murshidabad.This initiative is also strongly supported by Bollywood divas like Aishwarya Rai
Bachchan, Vidya Balan
He has been developing textiles from Dastkarin-Andhra Pradesh, Berozghar Mahili Samitiin-
Bihar, Tantubay Samiti-Fulia and Kotpadin-Orissa. The designer uses rich ethnic fabrics in his
collection - extensive use of Banarasi fabric can be seen in his range. Over the past two years he
has also been involved in reviving cotton Benarasi sarees in pure khadi and vegetable hand
block prints from Bagru.
He is one of the designers who,by his skillful use of Indian fabric Khadi brought it in the
International platform. Sotheby's London hosted an exhibition of contemporary design named
'Inspired by India' where the designer showcased his work of khadi. Sabyasachi's collection of
Winter-Festive Lakme Fashion Week 2011 revived the finer version of Khadi.

Sabyasachi
The designer forayed into films by designing costumes for Sanjay Leela Bhansali's landmark
film: "Black" which earned him critical acclaim along with the National Award in 2005 for the
best costume designer for a feature film. Since then, he has designed for other Bollywood
movies such as “Babul” and “Laaga Chunari Mein Daag”, “Raavan”, “Guzaarish”,"Paa",“No One
Killed Jessica” and “English Vinglish”.
The entire trousseau collection of around 18 hand-crafted sarees for Bollywood diva Vidya
Balan's wedding was designed by Sabyasachi for which he specially sourced the silk from
Chennai.Vidya Balan also wore seven of his outfits for her public appearances whilst serving on
the competition jury panel at Cannes 2013.
Sabyasachi’s celebrity clientele also includes Sridevi, Tabu, Shabana Azmi, Aishwarya Rai
Bachchan, Sushmita Sen and Kareena Kapoor to name a few.
Amongst international actresses, Rene Zelleweger, Reese Witherspoon & others have sported
his label.[4]

Imaginative development
Sabyasachi, in 2008 launched a line of jewelry exclusively designed by him in association with
the GAJA brand.
He launched his exclusive menswear collection featuring Sherwanis, Kurtas and headgear at the
Lakme Fashion Week Spring Summer 09 Grand Finale show.
The Designer has also started the kids wear line under the label CHOTA SABHYA.“I felt the need
to do something for children, using Indian techniques and handlooms, to make children
sensitive towards our clothing,” said Sabyasachi

Delhi Couture Week 2013 : Sabyas

Like the dupatta on this lehenga above.
o die for. Its a pale, sky blue with a charcoal grey ombre effect and florals on

the side!
 PRINCIPLES OF DESIGN- BALANCE &
RHYTHM,PROPORTION,EMPHASIS,SIMILARITY & CONTRAST
PRINCIPLES OF DESIGN- HARMONY- UNITY
Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2013
Grand Finale: Sabyasachi
Lakme Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2013. At first glance- how freaking cool
are those glares with saris? Also loving the jewellery accents with the Satin
sarees and net pleats! Noy really digging the navy striped blouses though

Elements of design:- colors

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2elements of design – colors

PRINCIPLES OF DESIGN – SIMILARITY AND CONTRAST
 Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2013 Ended With A Stunning Grand
Finale By Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s Collection Inspired By Lakmé Absolute
Royal
th
Mumbai, 27 August 2013: The curtains on Lakmé Fashion Week
Winter/Festive 2013 came down with one of the most stunning Grand
Finales. Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s magnificent range, inspired by the limited
edition Lakmé Absolute Royal collection, had the audience spell-bound with
its beauty.
The black wood panelled ramp lit on either side set the mood, while the
seven chandeliers on stage and ramp created a vintage ambience. Rows of
twinkling bulbs covered the ceiling, mirrors lined the backdrop; large clumps
of red roses added colour to the backdrop and silver pillars recreated the
classy interior of a gentleman’s jazz nightclub in London.

The Lakmé Absolute Royal products that inspired Sabyasachi’s collection are
a tribute to the regal era of queens, and they offer a rich shade palette
across Lakme Absolute Creme Lip Colors, Absolute Shine Line Eyeliner and
Absolute Royal Nail Colors.

The gorgeous creations that floated down the ramp would have thrilled
many a statuesque queen of the past eras as the stately outfits in shades of
jewel tones as well as regal hues, were a vision of beauty.

This season Sabyasachi reinforced the juxtaposition of maximalism against

minimalism, with a whimsical design theme. These elements were unified by
a youthful essence in the form of sheer saris paired with mini skirt
petticoats, micro mini dresses, peplum silhouettes with structured,
panelled/quilted sport jackets, waistcoats and cropped tops. Amidst the lace
work and Kashmiri embroidered embellishment were delicate signature
Sabyasachi prints that were given weight with intricate panelling and
layering. Acid burned zardosi gilded a rich khadi leopard print that was a
novel facet of the entire showcase that embodied the feline suave of the
modern maharani of a metropolis.

With a dramatic opening that saw live performance of “Feeling Good” by

Rachel Varghese, the audience rocked to popular hit tunes of the past. The
theme from the film “Pink Panther” filled the Ballroom of Hotel Grand Hyatt,
as Indrani Dasgupta glided on the ramp in a luxurious crystal choli, net sari
over printed lehenga.

Sabyasachi unveiled one of the most sensational collections of 57 couture

creations ever seen on the ramp. Pairs of sherwanis and bundgalas in
black/red with tonal embroidery were created for Him and Her. Lace
appeared in black/nude for sensuous gowns. The all-black lace sari with long
sleeved choli with mini petticoat, the belted jacket in brocade, quilted midi
skirt, hip length machined kurta over flared skirt and the noir lace gown
recreated the glamour of the era when women dressed like queens. The pair
of horizontal striped knit cholis with chamois satin pastel saris having lace
kalis were elegant in their serene glamour. Velvet was the favoured choice
of Sabyasachi for the cholis, skirts or combined with embellished net for the
saris. Cholis were sedate with long sleeves at times topped with waistcoats.
Men’s wear was colourful with sherwanis, Jodhpuri jackets and bundgalas in
printed or plain fabric.

The makeup, done by Lakme Makeup Expert Clint Fernandes was dominated
by accentuated red lips and smoky eyes with lots of Kohl recreating the
beauty and glamour of the opulent era.

Footwear was innovative with fabric and leather boots/shoes, some with
matching spats and a few embellished mojris that followed the mood of the
collection. Jewellery from The Gem Palace the official jewellers of the Royal
family of Jaipur complemented the gorgeous creations.

Talking about the grandeur he showcased, Sabyasachi Mukherjee said,

“Nothing is more royal than beautiful eyes lined with thick winged liner and
a rich toned red lip. This was the central touch point of the whole collection
that brought it all together. The Lakmé woman is very feminine, dynamic
and strong, minimal make up with the maximum effect is essential. I
absolutely love the vintage feel that we have created for this winter/festive
season at Lakmé Fashion Week.”

Speaking at the finale, Purnima Lamba, Head of Innovation, Lakmé

mentioned, ‘It’s a moment of pride for us at Lakmé as we witnessed one of
the most avant garde translations of the Lakmé beauty statement.
Sabyasachi has always been synonymous with royalty and it was an exciting
journey to co-create the contemporary royal looks for the festive season
with him. Whether it is regal colours and silhouettes or the imperial red lips,
we are confident that we will see the statement of opulent royalty off the
runways this winter-festive in a big way.”

The show fittingly brought down curtains to another immensely successful

season of Lakme Fashion Week.

Sabyasachi's royal collection ends LFW 2013

Elements of design- texture
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ELEMENTS OF DESIGN – SHAPE-

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ELEMENTS OF DESIGN- TEXTURE