™

IN
DE
MAA
US
Wingspan: 65 in [1650mm]
Wing Area: 778 sq in [50.2 dm²]
Weight: 5.5 – 7.0 lbs [2500 - 3182g]
Wing Loading: 16 – 21 oz/sq ft
[50–64 g/dm²]
Length: 49.5 in [1257mm]

WARRANTY..... Top Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does
not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Top Flite‘s liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Top Flite reserves
the right to change or modify this warranty without notice. In that Top Flite has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed
nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product the user accepts all
resulting liability. If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to immediately return this kit in new
and unused condition to the place of purchase.

Top Flite Models 3002 N. Apollo Dr., Suite 1, Champaign, IL 61822 Technical Assistance Call (217)398-8970 productsupport@top-flite.com

READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

Entire Contents © Hobbico, Inc 2012 ELD4P03 for TOPA0215 V1.1

 TABLE OF CONTENTS Install the Elevator and Rudder Pushrods and
Control Horns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31 PROTECT YOUR MODEL,
Install the Aileron Pushrods & Control Horns. .32
INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 Scale Details . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
YOURSELF & OTHERS
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 Final Hookups and Checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33 FOLLOW THESE IMPORTANT
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED. . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Hardware and Accessories . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Control Throws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
GET YOUR MODEL READY TO FLY . . . . . . . . .34
Adhesives and Building Supplies . . . . . . . . . . . .3 Balance your Model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
Optional Supplies and Tools. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 PREFLIGHT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 1. Your Top Flite Elder should not be considered a
Identify Your Model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 toy, but rather a sophisticated, working model that
GET READY TO BUILD. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 Charge the Batteries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
COMMON ABBREVIATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 functions very much like a full-size airplane. Because
Balance Propellers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 of its performance capabilities, the Top Flite Elder, if
METRIC CONVERSIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 Find a Safe Place to Fly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
DIE-CUT PATTERNS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 not assembled and operated correctly, could possibly
Ground Check Your Model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 cause injury to yourself or spectators and damage to
BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 Range Check Your Model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
Build the Stab . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 property.
CHECK LIST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
Build the Elevator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS . . . . . . . . . . .36
Build the Fin and Rudder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 2. You must assemble the model according to the
AMA SAFETY CODE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36 instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as
BUILD THE WING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 FLYING. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
Frame the Wing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model.
Takeoff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37 In a few cases the instructions may differ slightly
Install the Wing Joiners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11 Flight. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
Finish the Bottom of the Wing . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 from the photos. In those instances the written
Landing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37 instructions should be considered as correct.
Join the Wings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Build the Wingtip. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Build the Aileron . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 3. You must take time to build straight, true
Finish the Wing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15 and strong.
Make the Cockpit (Optional). . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
BUILD THE FUSELAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in first-
Frame the Fuselage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 class condition, and a correctly sized engine and
Mount the Wing to the Fuselage . . . . . . . . . . .20 components (fuel tank, wheels, etc.) throughout the
Finish the Fuselage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 building process.
Adding the Wing Fairing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Assemble and Install the Landing Gear . . . . .24 INTRODUCTION 5. You must correctly install all R/C and other
Tailskid Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 components so that the model operates correctly on
Tail Wheel Wire Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Congratulation and thank you for purchasing the Top the ground and in the air.
FINAL CONSTRUCTION. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 Flite Elder. The Top Flite Elder is a classic design from
Mount the Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 the early years of modeling, brought back by requests 6. You must check the operation of the model before
Install the Radio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 from modelers just like you! This easy flying model will every flight to insure that all equipment is operating
FINISHING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 provide you with many hours of relaxing flight. Though and that the model has remained structurally sound.
Fuelproofing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 it is simple to build and fly, it also has its own unique Be sure to check clevises or other connectors often
Prepare the Model for Covering . . . . . . . . . . . .28 character that seems to appeal to modelers of all ages and replace them if they show any signs of wear or
Balance the Model Laterally . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 and is guaranteed to get the attention of everyone at fatigue.
Cover Your Model with MonoKote. . . . . . . . . . .28 the field. We hope you enjoy building the Top Flite Elder
Installing the Stab and Fin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29 as much as we have enjoyed bringing it back to the 7. If you are not already an experienced R/C pilot,
Join the Control Surfaces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30 modeling world and introducing it to a whole new you should fly the model only with the help of a
generation of modelers. competent, experienced R/C pilot.
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 NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you Adhesives and Building Supplies
with a top quality kit and great instructions, but
In addition to common household tools (screw drivers,
ultimately the quality and flyability of your finished
drill, etc.), this is the “short list” of the most important
model depends on how you build it; therefore, we
items required to build the Top Flite Elder. We
cannot in any way guarantee the performance of
recommend Great Planes Pro™ CA and Epoxy glue.
your completed model, and no representations
are expressed or implied as to the performance or
safety of your completed model. ❏ 1 oz. Thin Pro CA (GPMR6002)
❏ 1 oz. Medium Pro CA+ (GPMR6008)
❏ CA Accelerator (GPMR6034)
Academy of Model Aeronautics ❏ 6-Minute Epoxy (GPMR6045)
Remember: Take your time and follow the
5151 East Memorial Drive ❏ 30-Minute Epoxy (GPMR6047)
instructions to end up with a well-built model
Muncie, IN 47302-9252 ❏ R/C-56 Canopy Glue (JOZR5007)
that is straight and true.
Tele. (800) 435-9262 ❏ Hobby knife (RMXR6907)
Fax (765) 741-0057
❏ #11 blades (RMXR6930)
Or via the Internet at: http://www.modelaircraft.org
Before starting to build, compare the parts in this kit ❏ Small T-pins (HCAR5100)
with the Parts List, and note any missing parts. Also ❏ Builder’s triangle (HCAR0480)
inspect all parts to make sure they are of acceptable
quality. If any parts are missing, broken or defective,
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED ❏ Electric drill
or if you have any questions about building or flying ❏ Small Phillips and flat blade screwdrivers.
this airplane, please call us at (217) 398-8970, or
Hardware and Accessories ❏ Pliers with wire cutter (HCAR0630)
e-mail us at productsupport@top-flite.com. If you ❏ Great Planes Plan Protector (GPMR6167) or
This is the list of hardware and accessories required
are contacting us for replacement parts, please be wax paper
to finish the Top Flite Elder. Order numbers are
sure to provide the full kit name (Top Flite Elder) ❏ Sanding tools and sandpaper assortment (see
provided in parentheses.
and the part numbers as listed in the Parts List.
Easy-Touch™ Bar Sander section)
❏ Engine - .40 - .46 [6.5 – 7.5cc ] 2-stroke ❏ Sealing Iron (TOPR2100)
If you have not flown a model before, we recommend
that you get the assistance of an experienced pilot in .52 [8.5cc ] 4-stroke ❏ Small torch or 40 watt soldering iron
your R/C club for your first flights. If you’re not a ❏ Radio - Four channel radio with four,
member of a club, your local hobby shop has 40 oz.-in. servos.
information about clubs in your area whose ❏ Wheels – Two 3-3/4" Wheels. Williams Brother Optional Supplies and Tools
membership includes experienced pilots. Vintage Wheels (WBRQ1306)
Here is a list of optional tools mentioned in the
❏ Spinner Great Planes Brass Spinner Nut – manual that will help you build the Top Flite Elder.
In addition to joining an R/C club, we strongly
recommend you join the AMA (Academy of Model choose for your engine shaft size.
Aeronautics). AMA membership is required to fly at ❏ Propellers - Choose prop appropriate for ❏ Great Planes CG Machine™ (GPMR2400)
AMA sanctioned clubs. There are over 2,500 AMA your engine ❏ Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer™
chartered clubs across the country. Among other ❏ Fuel line - Standard 3' tubing (GPMQ4131) (TOPQ5700)
benefits, the AMA provides insurance to its members ❏ Fuel tank - 10 oz (SULQ1385) ❏ Top Flite Hot Sock™ iron cover (TOPR2175)
who fly at sanctioned sites and events. Additionally,
❏ MonoKote - For color scheme on the box: ❏ Straightedge with scale (HCAR0475)
training programs and instructors are available at
AMA club sites to help you get started the right way. ❏ 2 - Six foot rolls “Cream” (TOPQ0212) ❏ Cutting mat (HCAR0456)
Contact the AMA at the following address or toll-free ❏ 1 – Six foot roll “Red” (TOPQ0201) ❏ Masking Tape (GPMR1010)
phone number. ❏ 1 – Six foot roll “Insignia Blue”(TOPQ0207) ❏ CA Debonder (GPMR6039)
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 ❏ CA Applicator Tips (HCAR3780) Here’s the complete list of Easy-Touch Bar Sanders • When you see the term test fit in the instructions,
❏ Epoxy Brushes (GPMR8060) and Adhesive Backed Sandpaper: it means that you should first position the part on
❏ Mixing Sticks (GPMR8055) 5-1/2" Bar Sander (GPMR6169) the assembly without using any glue, then
11" Bar Sander (GPMR6170) slightly modify or custom fit the part as necessary
❏ Threadlocker (GPMR6060)
22" Bar Sander (GPMR6172) for the best fit.
❏ Denatured Alcohol (for epoxy clean up) 33" Bar Sander (GPMR6174)
❏ Silver solder (GPMR8070) 44" Bar Sander (GPMR6176) • Whenever the term glue is written you should rely
❏ Felt-Tip Marker (TOPQ2510) 11" Contour Multi-Sander (GPMR6190) upon your experience to decide what type of glue
❏ Rotary tool such as Dremel to use. When a specific type of adhesive works
❏ Rotary tool reinforced cut-off wheel 12’ roll of Adhesive-backed: best for that step, the instructions will tell you what
80-grit sandpaper (GPMR6180) glue is recommended.
(GPMR8200)
150-grit sandpaper (GPMR6183)
❏ 1/16" to 1/4" drill bit set 180-grit sandpaper (GPMR6184) • Whenever just epoxy is specified you may use
❏ Other drill bits used: 17/64" (or 1/4"), #48 (or 220-grit sandpaper (GPMR6185) either 30-minute epoxy or 6-minute epoxy. When
5/64"), #36 (or 7/64), 6-32 tap, 1/4" tap Assortment pack of 5-1/2" strips (GPMR6189) 30-minute epoxy is specified, it is highly
-or- recommended that you use only 30-minute (or
❏ Great Planes tap and drill set (GPMR8108) 45-minute) epoxy because you will need the
working time and/or the additional strength.
❏ Dead Center™ Engine Mount Hole Locator
(GPMR8130) • Photos and sketches are placed before the step
❏ Great Planes AccuThrow™ Deflection Gauge they refer to. Frequently you can study photos in
(for measuring control throws, GPMR2405) following steps to get another view of the same parts.
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES
• Not all die-cut parts have a name, or their complete
There are two types of screws used in this kit: name stamped on them, so refer to the die
™ drawings on page 6 for identification. When it’s
EASY-TOUCH BAR SANDER Sheet metal screws are designated by a number time to remove the parts from their die sheets, if
and a length. they are difficult to remove, do not force them out.
Instead, use a sharp #11 blade to carefully cut the
For example #6 x 3/4" long [19.1mm] part from the sheet, then lightly sand the edges to
remove any slivers or irregularities. Save some of
the larger, leftover pieces of wood.

This is a number six screw that is 3/4" long.

GET READY TO BUILD
Machine screws are designated by a number,
threads per inch, and a length. 1. Unroll the plan sheets. Roll them inside out so
A flat, durable, easy to handle sanding tool is a they lie flat.
necessity for building a well finished model. Great For example 4-40 x 3/4" long [19.1mm]
Planes makes a complete range of Easy-Touch Bar 2. Remove all the parts from the box. Use a ballpoint
Sanders and replaceable Easy-Touch Adhesive- pen (not a felt tip pen) to lightly write the name or
backed Sandpaper. While building the Top Flite size on each piece so you can identify it later. Use
Elder, we used two 5-1/2" Bar Sanders and two 11" the die-cut patterns on pages 6 and 7 to identify and
Bar Sanders equipped with 80-grit and 150-grit This is a number four screw that is 3/4" long with mark the die-cut parts before you remove them from
Adhesive-backed Sandpaper. forty threads per inch. their die sheets. Many of the parts already have
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numbers stamped on them, but in some cases the COMMON ABBREVIATIONS METRIC CONVERSIONS
number is located alongside the parts or only on the 1" = 25.4mm (conversion factor)
die drawings in the manual. Do not remove the die-cut deg. = Degrees
parts until instructed to do so. If a part is difficult to Elev = Elevator
remove, don’t force it out but cut around it with a hobby Fuse = Fuselage 1/64" = .4mm 2" = 50.8mm
knife and a #11 blade. After you remove the parts from LE = Leading Edge (front) 1/32" = .8mm 3" = 76.2mm
their die sheets, lightly sand the edges to remove LG = Landing Gear 1/16" = 1.6mm 6" = 152.4mm
slivers or die-cutting irregularities. Save some of the Lt = Left 3/32" = 2.4mm 12" = 304.8mm
larger scraps of wood. Ply = Plywood 1/8" = 3.2mm 15" = 381mm
Rt = Right 5/32" = 4mm 18" = 457.2mm
3. Separate the parts into groups such as stab, fin, Stab = Stabilizer 3/16" = 4.8mm 21" = 533.4mm
wing, and fuse. Store smaller parts in zipper-top TE = Trailing Edge (rear) 1/4" = 6.4mm 24" = 609.6mm
food storage bags. " = Inches 3/8" = 9.5mm 30" = 762mm
1/2" = 12.7mm 36" = 914.4mm
5/8" = 15.9mm
TYPES OF WOOD 3/4" = 19mm
1" = 25.4mm

BALSA BASSWOOD PLYWOOD

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DIE-CUT PATTERNS

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 BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES Build the Elevator

❏ 1. From the 1/4" x 1-3/4" x 36" [6 x 32 x 914mm]

Build the Stab balsa sheet, cut two pieces 10-1/2" [267mm] in length.

❏ 1. Tape the Wing/Stab Plan view to your building

board. Cover the plan with Plan Protector.

❏ 2. Locate the two die-cut 1/8" [3mm] balsa stab

center pieces. Glue them together with medium CA
to make one 1/4" [6mm] stab center.
❏ 6. Glue the remaining gussets in place as shown
on the plan.

❏ 2. Using the plan as your guide, cut and shape

each of them to match the shape of the elevator
shown on the plan.

❏ 3. Locate four die-cut 1/8" [3mm] balsa stab tips.

Glue them together to form two 1/4" [6mm] stab tips.
❏ 7. From 3/32" x 1/4" x 36" [2.4mm x 6 x 914mm]
balsa stick, cut out cap strips and glue them in place
on the stab ribs. Do this on both the top and bottom
❏ 4. Pin the stab center over the plan. Using your of the stab. Note: On the stab cross-section you will
plan as a guide, build the leading edge and trailing
see that the cap strips extend across the leading and
edge of the stab from 1/4" x 1/2" x 36" [6mm x 13 x
trailing edge.
914mm] balsa sticks. Cut 1/4" x 1/4" [6mm x 6mm]
balsa sticks to the proper length for the stab ribs.
Glue them in place with medium CA.

❏ 3. Pin the elevator halves to the plan. Locate and

❏ 5. Glue the die-cut 1/8" [3mm] balsa gussets in ❏ 8. Sand the cap strips to the shape shown on the test fit the 1/4" x 3" [6 x 75mm] dowel in place in the
place next to the stab tip on the left side of the stab. stab cross-section. This is also a good time to final cut-outs on the LE of the elevator. When you are
Center them on the 1/4" [6mm] stab parts. Repeat sand the leading edge of the stab. Use the cross- satisfied with the fit of the dowel, glue it in place with
this for the right side of the stab. section as your guide for sanding the final shape. 6-minute epoxy.
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 Trial fit the hinge into the slot. If the hinge does
not slide in easily, work the knife back and forth in
the slot a few times to provide more clearance (it
is really the back edge of the blade that does the
work here in widening the slot).

USING CA HINGES
The hinge material supplied in this kit consists of a
3 layer lamination of Mylar and polyester. It is
specially made for the purpose of hinging model
airplane control surfaces. Properly installed, this
type of hinge provides the best combination of
strength, durability and ease of installation. We trust
even our best show models to these hinges, but it
❏ 4. Locate the 2" x 9" [50 x 230mm] hinge material is essential to install them correctly. Please follow
and cut sixteen hinges as shown in the above sketch. the instructions carefully to obtain the best results.
These instructions may be used to effectively install B. Drill a 3/32” [2.4mm] hole, 1/2” [13mm] deep,
any of the various brands of CA hinges. in the center of the hinge slot. If you use a Dremel
Moto-Tool® for this task, it will result in a cleaner
The most common mistake made by modelers hole than if you use a slower speed power or
when permanently installing this type of hinge is hand drill. Drilling the hole will twist some of the
not applying a sufficient amount of glue to fully wood fibers into the slot, making it difficult to
secure the hinge over its entire surface area; or, insert the hinge, so you should reinsert the knife
the hinge slots are very tight, restricting the flow blade, working it back and forth a few times to
of CA to the back of the hinges. This results in clean out the slot.
hinges that are only “tack glued” approximately
1/8” to 1/4” into the hinge slots. The following C. Trial fit the hinges into the slots and, without
technique has been developed to help insure using any glue, temporarily attach the control
thorough and secure gluing. surface, to verify the fit.

❏ 5. Mark a centerline down the LE of the elevator.

Repeat this for the trailing edge of the stab. Using the
STOP! DO NOT GLUE THE HINGES IN PLACE
plan as your guide, mark the location for each of the
UNTIL AFTER THE MODEL IS COVERED!
hinges on the stab and elevator, then cut matching slots
in the stab and elevator. The Great Planes Slot
Machine™ (GPMR4010) works very well and makes the
❏ 6. Sand the elevator to its final shape, matching
the contours you sanded on the stab and sanding the
job of cutting hinge slots fast and easy! If you do not
leading edge to a “V” shape as shown on the plan.
have a Slot Machine use the Expert Tip that follows.
You will notice on the plan that there is a dashed line
on the elevator trailing edge forming a scalloped
A. Cut the hinge slot using a #11 blade in a shape. This pattern is provided for you if you decide
standard #1 knife handle. The CA hinges provided that you would like to have a scalloped TE. We did
have a thickness that fits this type of slot very well. this on the model shown on the box cover. Use the
plan as your guide for cutting the scalloped edge
should you decide to do this option.
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Build the Fin and Rudder BUILD THE WING
Frame the Wing

❏ ❏ 1. Tape the Right Wing Plan view to your

building board. Cover the plan with Plan Protector.

❏ ❏ 2. Locate one of the shaped balsa leading

edges and one of the shaped balsa trailing edges.
Cut each of them to a length of 29-3/4" [759mm]. Be
❏ 4. From the remaining piece of the 1/4" x 1-3/4" x
sure to save the leftover pieces. They will be used as
36" [6 x 32 x 914mm] balsa sheet, cut the rudder tip
filler blocks later in the building process.
and the 1-3/4" portion of the rudder. Using leftover
¼" x ½" stick, cut the stick to a length of 9". Glue the
stick to 1/4" x 1-3/4" x 36" [6 x 32 x 914mm] portion
❏ ❏ 3. Locate two 1/4" x 3/8"x 30" [6 x 9.5 x 760mm]
basswood spars. Cut each of them to a length of
of the rudder forming a 2-1/4" wide rudder.
❏ 1. Tape the Fin and Rudder Plan view to your 29-3/4" [756mm].
building board. Cover the plan with Plan Protector. ❏ 5. Glue the two rudder parts together.
❏ 6. From 3/32" x 1/4" [2.4mm x 6mm] balsa stick, ❏ ❏ 4. Locate two 3/16" x 3/16" x 36" balsa [4.8 x
4.8 x 914mm] leading edge sub spars. Cut each of
cut out cap strips and glue them in place on the fin
❏ 2. Locate two sets of die-cut 1/8" [3mm] balsa fin ribs. Do this on both the left and right side of the fin
them to a length of 29-3/4" [759mm].
leading edge pieces. One set is short the other is the same way as you did for the horizontal stab.
long. Glue the two long fin leading edge pieces Note: On the fin cross-section you will see that the cap
together to form one 1/4" [6mm] fin leading edge. Do strips extend across the leading and trailing edge.
the same with the short set.
❏ 7. Sand the cap strips to the shape shown on the
fin cross-section. This is also a good time to final
sand the leading edge of the fin. Use the cross-
section as your guide for sanding the final shape.
❏ 8. Mark a centerline down the LE of the rudder.
Repeat this for the trailing edge of the fin. Using the ❏ ❏ 5. Pin one of the basswood spars to the plan
plan as your guide, mark the location for each of the with T-Pins.
hinges on the fin and rudder, then cut matching slots
in the fin and rudder using the same procedure you
used for the stab and elevator. Sand the rudder and
the fin to the shape shown on the cross-section. Be
sure to make the oval cut out in the rudder for the
elevator to pass through.
❏ 9. Trial fit the hinges into the slots and without
❏ 3. Cut the 1/4" x 1/2" x 36" [6 x 12 x 914mm] balsa using any glue, temporarily attach the control surface
to verify the fit.
stick to make the frame structure of the fin. Glue the
parts together to create the fin framework. Cut the ❏ 10. The plan shows the option of a scalloped
1/4" x 1/4" x 36" [6 x 6 x 914mm] balsa sticks to fit trailing edge on the rudder just as the elevator did. If ❏ ❏ 6. Test fit the die-cut 3/32" {214mm] balsa W1
between the fin frame as shown on the plan. Glue you chose to scallop the elevator you may want to ribs over the basswood spar in the locations shown
them in place. scallop the rudder as well. on the plan.
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❏ ❏ 7. Test fit the W2 rib at the end of the basswood spar. ❏ ❏ 12. Glue each of the remaining ribs to the
shaped balsa leading edge, centering them as you go.

❏ ❏ 16. Locate one of the 3/32" x 1" x 30" [2.4 x 25 x

❏ ❏ 8. Locate the die-cut 1/8" [3mm] plywood 760mm] balsa trailing edge sheets. Cut it to a length
dihedral gauge. Place the gauge flat on the building of 29-3/4" [756mm]. Glue it in place on the trailing edge
board at the root of the wing and against the side of ❏ ❏ 13. Place the shaped balsa trailing edge in of the wing.
the W1 rib. Once you are satisfied with the rib position as shown on the plan. The trailing edge should
placement, use CA to glue the rib to the basswood be placed flat on the building board and against each of
spar. Important! Be sure you use the gauge to set the ribs. When satisfied with the fit, glue the trailing
the angle of the rib. Failure to do so will not provide edge in place to the eleven W1 ribs and the W2 rib.
the wing with the required amount of dihedral.

❏ ❏ 9. Use CA to glue each of the ribs onto the

basswood spar. Make sure that each of the ribs is
perpendicular to the building board.

❏ ❏ 10. Glue the 3/16" x 3/16" x 29-3/4" [4.8 x 4.8

x756mm] balsa leading edge sub spar into the
notches in the top of the wing. Glue the 1/4" x 3/8" x
29-3/4" [6 x 9.5 x 756mm] basswood top spar into the
notches in the top of the wing. ❏ ❏ 17. From the 3/32" x 3" x 24" [2.4 x 75 x 610mm]
balsa sheet, cut out six shear webs. When cutting the
shear web be sure the grain is perpendicular to the
wing spars. Position the shear webs on the wing
❏ ❏ 14. Locate one of the 3/32" x 1-1/8" x 30" [2.4 x spars as shown on the plan. When satisfied with the
28 x 760mm] balsa leading edge sheets. Cut it to a fit, glue them in place.
length of 29-3/4" [756mm]. Using a sanding block,
bevel one edge of the sheet to get a good fit between ❏ ❏ 18. From a sheet of 3/32" x 3" x 30" [2.4 x 75 x
the sheeting and the leading edge of the wing. 760mm] balsa sheet, cut three pieces 4-3/8" [111mm]
in length. Edge glue the three sheets together to form
❏ ❏ 11. Beginning at one end of the wing, center the a sheet 4-3/8" x 9" [11 x 229mm]. Once the glue has
shaped balsa leading edge on the front of the rib. ❏ ❏ 15. Glue the leading edge sheeting in place dried, cut the sheeting to fit between the leading
Glue it to the rib. Center the leading edge on the rib between the leading edge and the balsa leading edge edge sheet and the trailing edge sheet as shown on
at the opposite end of the wing and glue it in place. sub spar. the plan.
- 10 -
 Install the Wing Joiners

Important!
The following steps are for the right wing panel.

❏ ❏ 19. Place the sheeting flat on the bench and ❏ 4. When you are satisfied with the fit of each
sand the joints of the sheeting smooth on the side brace, glue them in place with 30-minute epoxy. Use
that will be the top of the wing. When you have the center line you made on each brace as a guide
completed the sanding and are satisfied with the fit, to position the brace. It is important that exactly half
glue the sheeting in place between the leading edge of each brace goes into each wing panel. Set the
and trailing edge sheeting. ❏ 1. At the root rib, cut a 1/8" [3mm] slot in W1 as wing panel aside until the epoxy has fully cured.
shown for the leading edge and trailing edge brace.
Cut a 1/16" [1.6mm] slot through two W1 ribs for the
dihedral brace.

❏ ❏ 20. From 3/32" x 1/4" x 36" [214 x 614 x

914mm] balsa stick, cut and glue nine cap strips into ❏ 5. Glue the die-cut 1/8" [3mm] ply sub spar dowel
place. Cut each one to fit between the leading edge ❏ 2. Locate the die-cut 1/8" [3mm] plywood leading brace to the balsa sub spars as shown on the plan.
sheeting and the trailing edge sheeting on each rib. edge and trailing edge brace as well as the laser-cut
1/16" [1.6mm] plywood dihedral brace. Mark a
❏ ❏ 21. Remove the wing from the building board centerline on each of them.
and turn it over. Glue the 3/16" x 3/16" x 29-3/4"
balsa [4.8 x 4.8 x 756mm] leading edge sub spar in ❏ 3. Test fit each of the braces in the slots you just
the notches in the bottom of the wing. cut. When fitting the braces it is important that they
are installed properly. Important! The top of the
❏ 22. Repeat steps 1-21 for the left wing. brace must be glued so that it is in contact with the
top sheeting of the wing.
- 11 -
Finish the Bottom of the Wing ❏ ❏ 5. On the wing plan there are four locations
shown for 3/8” x 3/8” [9.5 x9.5mm] basswood blocks.
❏ ❏ 1. For the right wing panel, locate a 3/32" x The blocks are provided in the kit and are cut to the
1-1/8" x 30" [2.4 x 28 x 760mm] balsa bottom leading lengths shown on the plan. If you plan to install wire
edge sheet. Cut it to a length of 29-3/4" [756mm]. and turnbuckles on your model, proceed with
Bevel one edge of the sheet as you did with the installing the basswood blocks as shown on the plan.
sheeting on the top of the wing. When you are If you choose to use the elastic cord as we did on our
satisfied with the fit, glue the sheeting in place on the model then you can substitute balsa blocks for the
bottom of the wing. basswood. The balsa is a little easier to work with
than the basswood and will retain the elastic cord
better than the basswood. Locate the 3/8” x 3/8” x 18”
[9.5 x 9.5 x 457mm] balsa stick and cut it to the ❏ ❏ 9. Cut a slot as shown in the photo along the
❏ ❏ 2. Locate a 3/32" x 1" x 30" [2.4 x 25 x 760mm] length specified on the plan for each of the four centerline starting at the end. The slot needs to be
balsa bottom trailing edge sheet. Cut it to a length of blocks. Glue the blocks on the positions shown on 1/8" [ 3mm] wide to accommodate the torque rod.
29-3/4" [756mm]. Glue it in place on the trailing edge the plan. The slot can be cut easily with the Great Planes®
of the bottom of the wing. Groove Tube™ (GPMR8140) or the slot can be cut
with your hobby knife. Notice that these blocks are
not symmetrical so make the one for the left wing the
❏ ❏ 6. Whether you have installed the balsa or mirror image of this one.
❏ ❏ 3. Sheet the center section of the bottom wing basswood blocks, drill a 1/16" [1.6mm] hole through
following the same procedure you used for sheeting the center of the entire length of the block. ❏ ❏ 10. Cut another slot perpendicular to the slot you
the center section on the top of the wing. just cut to accommodate the arm of the torque rod.

❏ ❏ 7. Locate the 30" [762mm] shaped balsa

aileron. From one end of the aileron cut a piece
❏ ❏ 4. From 3/32" x 1/4" x 36" [2.4 x 6.4 x 914mm] 2-3/16" [55.8mm] in length.
balsa sticks, cut nine cap strips. Cut each one to fit
between the leading edge sheeting and the trailing
edge sheeting on each rib.

You now need to make a decision. When the Elder

was originally introduced it had flying and landing ❏ ❏ 11. Glue the block with the torque rod in place
wires on it. Though these wires are not a structural in the slot, being careful not to get any glue onto the
part of this model, they do add a great “Vintage” look metal wire. Tip – Apply a small amount of petroleum
to the model. If you have ever installed wires and jelly to the end of the plastic bearing. This will prevent
turnbuckles you know there is some additional work glue from getting onto the wire. Important! Before
and cost to do this. For our model we used elastic gluing the block in place be sure that you have the
cord to simulate the flying wires. This was much correct torque rod in place in the block. The
easier and less expensive than using actual wire. We un-threaded arm of the torque rod should protrude
will give complete instructions for installing wire or into the area where the aileron will be attached. The
elastic flying wires as we get further into the building ❏ ❏ 8. Mark a centerline on this piece of aileron threaded end of the arm will protrude towards the
process. If you choose not to install any of the wires stock. Make another mark 1-3/4" [44mm] from the bottom of the wing. Make sure that you install the
skip steps 5 & 6. end of the block. correct rod for each wing half.
- 12 -
Join the Wings Now that both of the wing panels are joined, go back
to the section, “Finish the Bottom of the Wing”.
❏ 1. Glue the die-cut 1/8" [3mm] ply sub spar dowel Follow the instructions to finish the bottom of the left
brace to the balsa sub spars on the left wing panel wing the same way you did the right wing.
as done on the right wing panel.

❏ 2. At the root rib of the left wing panel, cut two 1/8"
[3mm] slots in W1 at the leading edge and trailing
edge for the leading edge and trailing edge braces. ❏ ❏ 3. When satisfied with the fit, turn the wingtip over
Cut a 1/16" [1.6mm] slot through the two W1 ribs for and make two marks on the bottom of the tip. From the
the Dihedral Brace. Build the Wingtip tip, measure down 5/8" [15.9mm] and draw a line
perpendicular from the edge of the wing tip. Measure
❏ 3. Test fit the two wing panels together, inserting down from that line another 5/8" [15.9mm] and draw
the wing joiners from the right wing panel into the another line perpendicular from the edge of the wing tip.
slots you just cut in the left wing panel.

❏ ❏ 4. With your hobby knife, score the lines half

way through the balsa. The scores will allow you to
bend the end slightly when installing the wing tip.

❏ 4. When you are satisfied with the fit, mix 1 oz. of

30-minute epoxy. Glue the joiners and the wing
together with 30-minute epoxy, making sure you ❏ ❏ 1. Locate the die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa
apply liberal amounts to the joiner and the spars. wingtip parts. Glue the two pieces together to form
Before the glue dries, place one wing flat on the the completed wingtip.
building surface and measure the distance from the
table to the bottom of the wing. The distance should ❏ ❏ 2. On the right wing test fit the wing tip in place, ❏ ❏ 5. Using medium CA, glue the wingtip in place
be 1-3/4". Block the wing to maintain this distance making sure you have a good fit between the tip and to the end of the wing. Be sure that the wingtip and
while the glue dries. the end of the wing. the wing are flat on the building board before gluing
- 13 -
it in place. Do Not Glue the front 1-1/4" [32mm] of Build the Aileron
the tip to the wing. Proceed to the next step after the
glue has completely cured.

❏ ❏ 6. Carefully bend the tip of the wingtip on the

score until the tip takes on the contour of the wing.
When the proper bend has been achieved, use thin
CA to glue the tip to the wing.

❏ ❏ 1. Cut the ailerons to length as shown on the

plans. Mark a centerline on the LE of the aileron.
❏ ❏ 8. When satisfied with the fit, glue the wing tip
ribs in place.

❏ ❏ 2. Fit the aileron onto the wing panel and mark

the location of the torque rod. Drill a 7/64" [2.8mm]
1/2" [13mm] hole on the mark.

❏ ❏ 3. Using your Great Planes® Groove Tube or a

hobby knife, cut a 1/8" [3mm] slot from the end of the
❏ ❏ 9. From the leftover balsa leading edge, fit a aileron to the hole you just drilled.
piece to fill in the front of the wing tip.
❏ ❏ 4. Mark a centerline down the trailing edge of
❏ 10. Repeat steps 1–9 for the left wingtip. the wing. Using the plan as your guide, mark the
location for each of the hinges on the aileron and
wing trailing edge, then cut matching slots in the
aileron leading edge and wing trailing edge. Be sure
to follow the same technique described earlier in the
“Expert tip for using CA hinges”.

❏ ❏ 5. Trial fit the hinges into the slots and, without

❏ ❏ 7. Locate the four die-cut 3/32" [2.4mm] balsa using any glue, temporarily attach the aileron to
wing tip ribs. In the sketch, you can see how each verify the fit.
of the wing tip ribs needs to be beveled where they
contact the wing. Bevel each of them to the angles STOP! DO NOT GLUE THE HINGES IN PLACE
shown on the plan. UNTIL AFTER THE MODEL IS COVERED!
- 14 -
❏ ❏ 6. Sand the aileron to its final shape as shown
on the cross section of the wing. Sand a “V” in the
leading edge.

❏ 7. Repeat steps 1-6 for building the aileron for the

left wing.

Finish the Wing

❏ 3. Using a 1/4" x 3/8" x 30" [6 x 9.5 x 762mm]

basswood stick, cut two pieces 1" [25mm] long for ❏ 2. Cut out the cockpit from the sheeting. When you
the servo mounting rails. Glue them in place on the remove the sheeting the W1 wing rib will be in the
wing skin with 6- minute epoxy. middle of the cockpit. Remove the rib in this area to
create the open cockpit. This will not compromise the
Make the Cockpit (Optional) strength of the wing.

When the Elder was originally introduced we found ❏ 3. When you finish your model you will find that
that modelers chose to finish the plane in different either Fourmost Cockpit Coaming (FORQ2014) or
ways. The original plan had a cockpit in the top of the 18" of black neoprene fuel tubing makes a nice finish
wing. Some modelers chose not to do this. Just as to the cockpit opening. Installation instructions are at
❏ 1. Locate two laser-cut 1/16 x 3/4" x 1-1/2" [1.6 x 19 you had to make a choice to scallop the elevator and the end of the construction process.
x 38mm] plywood wing bolt plates. Glue them in place rudder, you need to decide if you would like to make
on the top of the wing. The plates should be positioned the cockpit. If not, skip this section.
1-1/2" [38mm] from the trailing edge of the wing.

❏ 2. On the bottom of the wing, cut an opening for ❏ 1. Locate the cockpit pattern on the plan and cut it
the aileron servo. Begin by drawing a line that is just out. Place the pattern on the top of the wing so that
behind the basswood main spar. With that line as a the back edge of the cockpit pattern is 2-1/2" [64mm]
reference, make an opening large enough for your from the trailing edge of the wing. Trace the pattern
particular brand of servo. onto the wing.
- 15 -
 BUILD THE FUSELAGE
Frame the Fuselage
Notice that you are building the right side first.
❏ 1. Tape the Fuselage Plan side view to your
building board. Cover the plan with Plan Protector.
Build the right fuselage side first.
❏ ❏ 6. Glue the fuse doubler to the fuse side on the
lines you have drawn.
Note: The left side will be glued to the other side.

❏ 7. Locate six 1/4" x 1/4" x 36" [6 x 6 x 914mm]

basswood sticks. These will be the longerons and
the longeron braces. Because these will be part of
the open tail structure it is recommended that you
take some time to sand them now. Later in the
construction process you will be applying a finish and
you will find it much easier if you sand the sticks now
before they become part of the model. Sand them
being careful not to round the edges.
❏ ❏ 2. Locate the die-cut 1/8" [3mm] balsa fuse
sides. Edge glue the two halves together. ❏ 8. From one 1/4" x 1/4" x 36" [6 x 6 x 914mm]
basswood stick cut two pieces 13" [330mm] long.

❏ ❏ 4. Locate the die-cut 1/8" [3mm] balsa landing ❏ 9. Locate two 1/4" x 1/4" x 36" [6 x 6 x 914mm]
gear doubler. Glue this to the fuse side doubler. basswood sticks. On one end of each stick cut a 45
Note: The left fuse side will have the doubler glued degree angle.
on the other side.

❏ 10. On one end of each of the 13" [279mm] sticks

cut a 45 degree angle. Using 6-minute epoxy glue a
13" [330mm] stick to the 36" [914mm] stick, gluing
❏ ❏ 5. Draw a line parallel to the top of the fuse side them together on the 45 degree cut. Do this for the
1/4" [6mm] from the top. Draw another line remaining two sticks. This will give you two longerons
❏ ❏ 3. Locate the die-cut 1/8" [3mm] balsa fuse perpendicular to this line, aligned with the back of the 48-3/4" [1239mm] long. Use a long straightedge to
side doublers. Edge glue the two halves together. first set of slots in the fuse side. keep the sticks straight.
- 16 -
❏ ❏ 11. Glue one of the 48-3/4" [1239mm] basswood
longerons to the top of the right fuse side as shown ❏ 14. This completes the right side of the fuselage.
on the plan. Glue the end of the stick where you Now is a good time to sand the side of the fuselage
made the splice to the fuse side. Do not have the while you can lay it flat on the bench. Repeat steps
splice at the rear of the fuselage. The 48-3/4" 2-13 for the left side of the fuselage. It is very
important that you make a left and right side ❏ 16. Pin the right fuselage over the plan. Glue die-
[1239mm] longeron is longer than shown on the plan.
fuselage! This is easily done if you build the left side cut 1/8" [3mm] plywood formers F2 through F7 in
Place the longeron on the plan at the back of the
of the fuselage on top of the right side you have place in the notches on the right fuselage side. Be
fuselage and allow the excess longeron length to
already made. On the right fuselage side, insert sure to glue them perpendicular to the fuselage.
extend beyond the front of the fuselage. Set the
remaining 48-3/4" [1239mm] basswood longeron some 1/8” balsa under the longerons to keep them
aside until you do the left side of the fuselage. straight. Place Plan Protector or a sheet of wax
paper on top of the completed right side and proceed
❏ ❏ 12. Glue a 36" [914mm] basswood longeron in building the left side on top of it.
place on the bottom of the fuse side. After the glue
has cured, cut the longeron to length as shown on
the plan.

❏ ❏ 13. From the remaining basswood stick, cut the

longeron braces to fit in the locations shown on the ❏ 15. Locate the right fuselage side. On the front of
plan. Glue them in place once you are satisfied with the fuselage you will see an embossed line that is
the fit. For maximum strength we recommend that approximately 1/8" [3mm] inside the edge of the front
they be glued in place with 6-minute epoxy because of the fuselage. Cut the fuselage on the embossed
CA does not bond as well to basswood. You can use line. This will provide you with the proper amount of ❏ 17. Locate two die-cut 1/8" [3mm] plywood F1
CA if you prefer, just be careful in handling the right thrust when you assemble the fuse. Do this on formers. Glue these together to form the 1/4" [6mm]
fuselage until you glue the gussets in place later in the right fuselage side only and be sure you only cut firewall. Make sure the punch marks are visible on
the building process. the sheeting. Do not cut the longerons! one side.
- 17 -
 FOR STEPS 22-27 USE THE TOP VIEW OF THE
FUSELAGE PLAN AS AN AID IN KEEPING THE
FUSELAGE STRAIGHT.

❏ 18. The firewall has eight punch marks. Draw two ❏ 20. Locate the firewall mounting gauge. This
reference lines for mounting the engine to the firewall gauge will set the proper amount of right thrust
as shown. If you are using the O.S. FS 52 or O.S. 46 required for the engine. Glue the F1 firewall to the
❏ 22. Glue the left side of the fuselage to the formers.
FX, the remaining four punch marks are exactly fuselage side with 6-minute epoxy. Be sure to use the
Be careful to maintain the proper angle for the firewall.
where you need to drill the engine mounting holes. If gauge when gluing it in place. Do not glue the gauge
Use the firewall mounting gauge to verify the firewall is
you are using a different engine you may find that to the firewall or fuse.
correct as you glue the fuselage side in place.
you have to adjust the location of the mounting holes
for your particular engine and muffler combination.
Drill four 5/32" [4mm] holes on the engine mount
punch marks for the 6-32 blind nuts.

❏ 23. Lay the fuselage upside down on the bench.

Locate the two 1/4" x 1" x 3-7/8" [6 x 25 x 98mm]
plywood landing gear mounting plates and glue
them in place in the bottom of the fuselage with
6-minute epoxy.

Important! The kit contains two of 1/8" x 3" x 30"

❏ 19. Use a small hammer and tap the four 6/32
[3 x 76 x 762mm] soft balsa sheets. These two
blind nuts into the holes you just drilled. After they
sheets are soft balsa and should be set aside.
are in place, put a few drops of thin CA on the blind ❏ 21. Locate die-cut 1/8" [3mm] parts F2T through
They will be used later for the cowl construction.
nut being careful not to get any glue onto the threads. F7T. Glue them in place on top of the formers. F3T
There are two sheets of 1/8" x 3" x 24" [3 x 76 x
Note: The blind nuts are installed on the rear of F1. and F4T only need to be tack glued in place as they
610mm] medium balsa. The medium balsa
Pay special attention to the orientation of the firewall will be removed later in the building process. The
sheets are to be used in the following steps.
as shown above. others are a permanent part of the structure.
- 18 -
 ❏ 28. Glue the 1/16" [1.6mm] tail gusset in place at
the rear, bottom of the fuselage with 6-minute epoxy.

❏ 24. From the 1/8" x 3" x 24" [3 x 76 x 610mm] ❏ 26. Cut and glue the remaining cross braces in
balsa, sheet the bottom of the fuselage. The grain of place on the top and bottom of the fuselage.
the balsa needs to run across the width of the
fuselage. Once you have the fuselage bottom
completed, take the time to sand the bottom of the
fuselage. It will be much easier to do while the
fuselage is placed flat on the bench.

❏ 29. From 1/8" x 3" x 24" [3 x 76 x 610mm] balsa,

sheet the top of the fuselage from former F5 to the
rear of the fuselage. The grain of the balsa needs to
run across the width of the fuselage.

❏ 30. Locate two die-cut 1/8" [3mm] plywood F2T

formers. Glue them together to form one 1/4"
[6mm] former.

❏ 25. Cut the aft end of the longerons to the angle

shown on the plan. Once the angle has been cut,
glue the longerons together with 6-minute epoxy. Use ❏ 27. Locate the sheet of 32 laser-cut 1/16 [1.6mm]
small clamps to hold the tail together while the glue plywood fuse gussets. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue
is curing. Be sure that you do not twist the longerons them in place over each of the cross brace joints.
when you clamp and glue them together. The Refer to the plans for exact positioning. You will find ❏ 31. Trial fit the F2T former in place in front of
fuselage and longerons should remain completely it helpful to use small clamps to hold them in place fuselage former F2. When you are satisfied with the
flat to the building board during the gluing process. while the epoxy cures. fit, glue it in place with 6-minute epoxy.
- 19 -
❏ 32. Earlier you temporarily glued F3T and F4T in Mount the Wing to the Fuselage
place. Remove and discard them.

❏ 3. Measure from the tip of the left wingtip to the tail

of the fuselage and from the right wingtip to the tail of
❏ 1. Position the wing onto the fuselage with the the fuselage. Adjust the wing until the distance is equal.
leading edge of the wing against former F2T.
❏ 33. Locate the two die-cut 1/8" x 1-1/2" x 3-5/8" [3 ❏ 4. When you are satisfied with the placement of
the wing, mark the location for the wood dowels onto
x 38 x 92mm] plywood wing bolt mounting plates.
the leading edge of the wing with a pencil. Make the
Glue them together to form one 1/4" [6mm] thick
marks through the center of both of the holes in F2T
wing bolt mounting plate.
onto the wing leading edge.

❏ 34. From former F5 measure forward 1-1/2" ❏ 5. Drill a 1/4" [6mm] hole through each of the
marks you made on the wing leading edge. Be sure
[38mm]. Make a mark on both sides of the fuselage.
to drill through the wing leading edge and the
plywood sub-spar dowel brace inside of the wing.

❏ 6. Locate the 1/4" x 4" [6 x 102mm] wood dowel.

Cut it into two 2" [51mm] pieces.

❏ 35. Glue the wing bolt mounting plate in position ❏ 7. Apply a liberal amount of epoxy into the holes
with 6-minute epoxy. The rear of the mounting plate you drilled in the wing. Apply a thin layer of epoxy to
is the side with the cut-out. This should be towards ❏ 2. Measure from the side of the fuselage to the the portion of the dowel that you will insert into the
the rear of the fuselage and aligned on the marks wing tip. Adjust the wing as needed until the distance wing. Insert the two wooden dowels into the holes,
you made on the fuselage. on the left side and right side are equal. twisting them as you insert them. Leave the dowel
- 20 -
extending 3/8" [9.5mm] out of the wing leading edge. drilling be sure that the drill remains perpendicular to
Wipe any excess glue from the exposed dowel. Allow the top of the wing. If the drill does not remain
the glue to cure then round the ends of the dowels as perpendicular to the wing you may not hit the center of
shown on the plan. This will make it easier to insert the wing bolt mounting plate in the fuselage.
the dowels through the holes in F2T when installing
the wing on the fuselage. ❏ 10. Remove the wing from the fuselage. Drill a
17/64" [6.7mm] clearance hole through the wing bolt
holes you drilled in the wing. Do not drill through the
holes in the wing bolt plate in the fuselage.

❏ 11. Using a 1/4-20 tap, tap each of the holes in the

wing bolt mounting plate. After they have been tapped
apply a couple of drops of thin CA onto the threads in
the wing bolt mounting plate. After the CA has ❏ 2. Turn the fuselage upright on the bench. Using the
completely cured, run the tap through the threads again triangle or square, mark a line across the top of the
to clear out any excess glue on the threads. fuselage perpendicular from the end of the line on the
right side of the fuselage. Turn the fuselage and
❏ 12. Install the wing onto the fuselage and screw continue the line down the left side of the fuselage.
the nylon wing bolts through the wing into the
threaded block in the fuselage to be sure that
❏ 8. On the top center of the wing at the aft end of everything fits properly. When you are satisfied
the wing is the plywood wing bolt plate. Measure things fit well, remove the wing.
from the center of the wing 1-1/8" [28mm] to the left
and right. Make a mark on the center of each
plywood wing bolt plate. Finish the Fuselage

❏ 3. Prepare the engine mount by cutting off the tabs

and slide the two halves together as shown.

❏ 9. Double check all your measurements to be sure ❏ 1. Place the fuselage on your bench with the right
the wing is still properly positioned. When you are side of the fuselage facing up. Using a builders
satisfied with the positioning of the wing drill a 13/64" triangle or a small square, mark a line across the
[5.2mm] hole through the wing on the marks you made side of the fuselage from the bottom corner of the
on the wing bolt plates. Drill through the wing and the fuselage to the top of the fuselage, perpendicular to ❏ 4. Install the engine mount to the firewall with four
wing bolt mounting plate inside of the fuselage. When the top fuselage. 6-32 x 3/4" [19mm] socket head cap screws, four #6 flat
- 21 -
washers and four #6 lock washers. Temporarily place ❏ 7. Locate the two die-cut 1/8" [3mm] plywood nose
your engine in the mount to set the width of the rings. Glue them together to form one 1/4" [6mm]
mounting rails to fit your engine. Remove the engine plywood nose ring.
and tighten all the engine mount mounting bolts. For
our model we will be installing the engine inverted so
we have installed the engine mount inverted. Be sure to
properly install your engine mount for the position you
choose to install your motor. Drill two 3/16" [4.8mm]
holes in the firewall to accommodate the fuel line and
the engine pressure line from the fuel tank.
❏ 8. You are now going to install the nose ring to the
fuselage. The positioning of the nose ring is
determined by the length of your engine. Temporarily
position your engine onto the engine mount. (Do not
permanently mount your engine to the mount). ❏ 10. From the remainder of the 3/16" x 3/16" x 36"
Determine where the nose ring will be positioned so [4.8 x4.8 x 914mm] balsa stick, cut, fit and glue the
when the engine is installed the front of the engine remaining side stringers from F1S to the nose ring.
thrust washer is approximately 1/4" - 3/8" [6mm – Do this for both sides of the fuselage.
9mm] further forward than the nose ring. Mark the
location of the nose ring on the basswood rails.

❏ 5. Locate the two die-cut 1/8" [3mm] balsa F1S

formers. Glue them in position on both the left and
right side of the fuselage. Use the lines you have
drawn on the sides of the fuselage as reference for
gluing them in place.

❏ 11. From a leftover 1/4" x 1/4" [6 x 6mm] basswood

stick, cut a stick for the center fuselage stringer to fit
from former F2T to the front of the nose ring. Glue it
in position. Glue the die-cut 1/8" [3mm] plywood
former F1T to the top of F1. Slide it forward or aft
slightly to fit under the basswood stick.

❏ 9. Insert the nose ring onto the basswood rails. ❏ 12. You are now going to sheet the front of the
❏ 6. From a 3/16" x 3/16" x 36" [4.8 x4.8 x 914mm] Locate the die-cut 1/8" [3mm] nose ring gauge fuselage. This is going to require compound bends to
balsa stick cut the balsa side stringers. Sand a bevel (NRG). Use it to set the angle of the nose ring as the sheeting. To accomplish this you must wet the
on the end of the sticks that are glued flush to the shown. Glue the nose ring to the rails. If there is any wood before gluing it into place. Rubbing alcohol
fuselage side. Cut the sticks to length so they fit to of the basswood rail extending beyond the nose ring, misted onto the wood with a spray bottle works best
the middle of former F1S and glue them in place. cut it off flush with the nose ring. but you can also accomplish the task with water.
- 22 -
 ❏ ❏ 15. Cut two more pieces of sheeting long enough
to fit from the fuselage side to the front of the nose ring.
Bevel the sheeting Cut one of the sheets to a width of 1-1/2" [38mm] (save
where it contacts the the remaining half of the sheeting to be used when
fuselage side. sheeting the opposite side of the fuselage). Edge glue
the full sheet to the 1-1/2" [38mm] wide sheet. This will
form a piece of sheeting wide enough to wrap around to
the center fuselage stringer.

❏ ❏ 13. All of the sheeting is going to be cut from

the 1/8" x 3" x 30" [3 x 76 x 762mm] soft balsa
sheeting that you previously set aside when building ❏ 18. Blend the sheeting from the cowl to the
the fuselage. Cut a piece of sheeting to fit from the fuselage with a balsa filler as well as filling in any
sheeted fuselage side, forward to the nose ring. gaps in the seams where the sheeting meets. Allow
When glued in place the top edge of the sheeting it to dry and then sand the front portion of the cowl
should be aligned on the center of the middle and fuselage.
stringer. Bevel the end of the balsa sheeting where it
will contact the fuselage side. This will provide a
better transition from the cowl to the fuselage. Wet Adding the Wing Fairing
the wood and allow it to soften before gluing.
❏ 16. Wet the wood and allow it to soften. When it is ❏ 1. Install the wing back onto the fuselage and
sufficiently soft, glue the sheeting in place to the secure it in place with the nylon wing bolts.
previously installed sheet and work the sheeting
towards the top of the fuselage. When the sheeting is
fully glued into place to all of the stringers trim the
sheeting down to the middle of the center stringer on
the top of the fuselage.

❏ 2. Locate a leftover piece of 1/8" thick sheeting.

Slide it in place at the wing leading edge just behind
former F2T. Use a pen or pencil to trace the shape of
the top of the fuselage onto the sheeting. Remove
the sheeting. Then cut the sheeting 3/32" [2.4mm]
inside the line you have just traced onto the sheeting.
❏ ❏ 14. When sufficiently softened to bend and fit the Doing this will allow for the sheeting that will be
fuselage, glue it in place with CA glue. Some CA ❏ 17. Repeat steps 13-16 for the opposite side of applied in the next couple of steps. This piece
accelerator will be helpful in gluing the sheeting in place. the fuselage. becomes the former for the wing fairing.
- 23 -
❏ 3. From left over 3/32" x 3" [2.4 x 76mm] balsa Assemble and Install the Landing Gear
sheeting cut two pieces to a length of 3-1/2".

❏ 1. Locate the two prebent wire landing gear wires

and one of the coils of wrapping wire. Make a wire
wrapped joint at each end and the middle of the main
landing gear wire where shown on the plan. If you
are new to making and soldering this type of a joint,
refer to the Soldering Hot Tip below.

B. Bend the soft wire around the two landing gear

wires being joined together. Continue to wrap the
soft wire around the landing gear wires until you
have approximately 20 turns of the soft wire
around the landing gear wire.

❏ 4. Set the former in place against former F2T. Do HOW TO MAKE A WRAP AND SOLDER JOINT
not glue it in place! Fit one of the 3/32" x 3" x 3-1/2"
[2.4 x 76 x 89mm] balsa sheets to the former and the
wing. Do this for the left and right side. When you are
satisfied with the fit, glue the former to the wing and C. Bend the portion of the wire that was lying
the balsa sheets to the former and the wing. After perpendicular to the landing gear wires being
they have been glued in place, feather the wing joined forward towards the wraps of soft wire. This
fairing sheeting and wing together with balsa filler. will prevent them from unraveling.

A. Bring the two pieces of landing gear wire together.

Clean the wire where they make contact with each
other using 300-grit sandpaper. After cleaning the
wire, bring the two pieces of landing gear wire
together where you want them joined. With a 6"
[152 mm] piece of soft wire begin by laying the wire D. Cut the excess wire but leave enough folded
❏ 5. Fill the small open area under the leading edge over the wraps of soft wire to keep the wire
parallel to the landing gear wires that you will be
of the wing with leftover balsa. Do this on both sides
joining. Then make a 90º bend in the end of the wire. in place.
of the fuselage.
- 24 -
E. To get a good bond between the soft wrap wire
and the wire landing gear it is important to use a
good solder and flux. The Great Planes® Silver ❏ 2. After completing the three solder joints on the ❏ 5. Wrap the two wires together with a 5" [127mm]
Solder Kit (GPMR8070) works very well and main landing gear wire, lay the main landing gear piece of soft wire, using the same technique used for
includes all the needed items for a good, strong wire onto the fuselage so that the wire is laying joining the forward landing gear wire. Solder the joint
solder joint. across the forward landing gear mounting plate. together. Do this for both sides of the landing gear.
Install two nylon humped landing gear straps over
the wire landing gear. Drill a 1/16" [1.6mm] hole You need to decide if you are going to install a tail
through the holes in the landing gear straps and into skid wire or if you are going to install a steerable
the landing gear mounting plate. Screw the straps tailwheel. Both are included in this kit. Steps 6 - 9 are
into the mounting plate with #2 x 1/2" [13mm] sheet for the tail skid construction and installation. Skip to
metal screws. the Tail Wheel Wire Installation after step 9 if you are
using a tailwheel.
❏ 3. Position the rear landing gear wire in place over
the rear landing gear mounting plate and secure it
F. Begin by applying a couple of drops of the liquid with two nylon landing gear straps the same as you
flux onto the wire joint. With a small torch begin did for the forward landing gear wire.
heating the landing gear wire above and below the
joint. (The best bond will be achieved if the landing
gear wire gets hot enough for the solder to flow into
it as well as the wire wrapped joint). Heat the wire
hot enough to melt the solder but not so hot that the
wires turn glowing red. Apply a small amount of
solder to the wire wrapped joint and when it is hot
enough you will be able to see the solder flow
around the wire joint. There is no need to over apply
the solder. Use just enough to flow between all of
the gaps in the wire. After completing the soldering
wipe away excess flux with a little water. Then, dry
the joint. Washing away the flux will allow the paint
to adhere better when you paint the landing gear. ❏ 4. Bring the two landing gear wires together so the
With a little practice you will find soldering a very rear landing gear wire makes contact with the forward
simple task. landing gear wire just below the solder joints you made
at each corner of the forward landing gear wire.
- 25 -
Tailskid Installation

❏ 6. Locate the pre-bent wire tail skid. Wrap and

solder it together in the three locations shown on the
plan. Once the solder has cooled, bend the end of
the wire to a slight angle as shown on the plan.

❏ 9. You may wish to paint your tailskid before installing

Cut a groove
it onto the fuselage. If so, do it now. This would also be
the width of
a good time to paint the main landing gear. When the
the hole,
paint has dried place the tailskid in position on the
1/16" into the
bottom of the fuselage. Secure it to the fuselage with
leading edge
cotton cord or string (not included) by wrapping the
of the rudder
cord around the wire and the cross braces on the
fuselage. Once you have it secured with the cord, apply
thin CA to the cord and the cross brace. When the glue
has dried you may want to paint the cord the same ❏ 2. Cut a groove into the leading edge of the rudder
color as the landing gear skid. the width of the hole you drilled. The groove needs to be
❏ 7. Lay the wire tail skid in position on the bottom cut 1/16" [1.6mm] into the leading edge of the rudder.
of the fuselage, making sure the bend you made in
the wire is pointed toward the top of the fuselage. Tail Wheel Wire Installation
Tape the skid in place by wrapping some masking
tape around the wire and the wood cross brace.

DRILL
3/32"
Cut slot
HOLE
❏ 3. Cut a 1/16" x 15/16 [1.6 x 23.8mm] slot into the
center of the tail brace as shown.
1"
1-1/4"
❏ 8. Wrap and solder the wire tail skid support in Set the assembly aside until instructed to permanently
place as shown on the plan. When you are finished ❏ 1. Drill a 3/32" [2.4mm] hole at the location shown install it in the “Join the Control Surfaces” section of
remove the tailskid from the fuselage. in the center of the rudder leading edge. the manual.
- 26 -
 FINAL CONSTRUCTION ❏ 5. Cut the 11-3/4" [298mm] gray outer plastic Install the Radio
pushrod guide to a length of 9". Use sandpaper to
Mount the Engine roughen one end of the 9" plastic tube. Insert the
smooth end of the tube through the firewall back into
the radio compartment. Apply a couple of drops of
CA to the roughened end of the tube. Then finish
inserting the rest of the tube flush with the firewall.

❏ 6. Before permanently installing the engine,

assemble the fuel tank following the manufacturer's
instructions. Then mount the fuel tank inside the ❏ 1. Locate the 1/8" [3mm] die-cut plywood servo
fuselage. Run the carburetor and vent lines through tray and the six 1/8" [3mm] die-cut plywood servo
the holes in the firewall. tray reinforcements.

❏ 7. Permanently mount the engine to the mount

and connect the fuel and vent lines.

❏ 1. Set your engine onto the engine mount. Position

it so that there is approximately 1/4" [6mm] clearance
between the front of the cowl and the front of the
thrust washer on the motor. If you have a small
C-clamp use it to hold the engine to the mount.

❏ 2. Mark the location of the engine bolt holes on the ❏ 2. Glue the plywood reinforcements to the bottom
engine mount. This can easily be done with a Great of the servo tray.
Planes® Dead Center™ tool. If you do not have this
you can also heat the end of a pointed wire with a ❏ 3. From left over 1/4" x 1/4" [6 x 6mm] basswood
torch and dimple the engine mount in the center of stringer material, cut two servo mounting rails 3-7/8"
each hole. [98mm] long. Glue them in position inside of the
fuselage at the location shown on the plan.

❏ 3. Remove the engine from the mount and drill four

#36 (or 7/64) [2.8mm] holes in the engine mount on the
marks. Tap 6-32 threads into the holes and mount your
engine with four 6-32 x 3/4" [19mm] socket head cap
screws, #6 flat washers and #6 lock washers.

❏ 4. Make a mark on the firewall to locate the

position that the throttle pushrod comes through. ❏ 8. Install the brass screw lock connector onto the
Remove the engine and drill a 3/16" [4.8mm] hole carburetor. You will complete the throttle installation
through the firewall. when you install the radio system. ❏ 4. Glue the servo tray on top of the rails.
- 27 -
 the end of the wire is over the throttle servo control Balance the Model Laterally
horn. Once the throttle pushrod wire is over the
throttle servo arm continue feeding the pushrod wire Laterally balancing the model now will allow you to
into the tube an additional 1" [25mm]. At the screw install weight on the wingtip before covering the wing,
lock connector on the carburetor, cut the excess hiding the weight inside the wing. Other components of
throttle pushrod wire. When you cut the wire you will the aircraft like the pushrods and landing gear should
be cutting off the threaded portion of the wire. This is not have any effect on the lateral balance when they
correct. Tighten the 4-40 set screw on the screw lock are installed in future steps.
connector to hold the throttle pushrod wire in place.
Connect the other end of the throttle pushrod to the ❏ 1. Mount your wing and the engine.
servo with a screw lock pushrod connector and the
4-40 set screw. ❏ 2. With the wing level, carefully lift the model by
the engine propeller shaft and the aft end of the
fuselage at the bottom of the wire tail skid (this may
require two people). Do this several times.
❏ ❏ 5. Install the servos as shown following the
radio manufacturer's mounting instructions. Before ❏ 3. If one wing always drops when you lift the model,
screwing the servos in place, drill a 1/16" [1.6mm] that side is heavy. Balance the airplane by gluing weight
hole through each of the servo mounting holes, inside the other wing tip. Glue the weight in place with
drilling into the plywood servo tray and the epoxy. An airplane that has been laterally balanced will
reinforcement strips on the underside of the servo FINISHING track better in loops and other maneuvers.
tray. Skipping this step may cause the servo tray to
split when you screw the servos into position. Apply Fuelproofing
a couple of drops of thin CA to harden the holes and Cover your Model with MonoKote
then screw the servos in place. Remove the engine, engine mount and the throttle
pushrod. Fuelproof the entire engine compartment It is assumed that you are an intermediate to
❏ 6. Permanently secure the receiver and battery in including the firewall. Use epoxy, epoxy paint, advanced modeler, so we won’t go into many details
place where shown on the plan. Be sure that you finishing resin or other fuelproof model paint. on covering techniques, but here are some tips you
wrap each of them in 1/4" [6mm] foam and secure should consider:
them so they are not able to move around inside the
fuselage. Connect your servos to the receiver Prepare the Model for Covering A. Most importantly, NEVER CUT THE COVERING
following the manufacturer's instructions. Route your DIRECTLY ON THE SHEETING. The Elder depends
receiver antenna through the fuselage, attaching it to ❏ 1. Inspect all surfaces for uneven glue joints and upon the wood sheeting for some of its strength.
the fuselage longerons at the rear of the model. seams that require filler. Apply filler where needed. Modelers who cut through the covering tend to cut
Many small dents or scratches in balsa can be into the sheeting and this will weaken the structure.
❏ 7. Mount your on / off receiver switch in a location repaired by applying a few drops of water or
that does not interfere with the rest of the radio moistening the area with a wet tissue. This will swell B. Use a Top Flite® Hot Sock™ to minimize dents in
system. It is good practice to mount your switch on the wood so you can sand it when it dries. the wood from your covering iron.
the side of the model opposite the exhaust.
❏ 2. Final sand the entire model with progressively C. Some modelers have three irons going at once:
❏ 8. Locate the .072 x 17-1/2" [445mm] pushrod wire finer grits of sandpaper, finishing with 320 or one on high heat without a Hot Sock for stretching
threaded on one end. This is the throttle pushrod 400-grit sandpaper. the covering around curves like wingtips; one on
wire. Insert the unthreaded end of it through the medium heat with a Hot Sock for bonding the
screw lock connector on the carburetor and into the ❏ 3. Use a large brush, air pressure or a Top Flite Tack covering to large sheeted areas like the wing and
tube in the firewall. Feed the wire into the tube until Cloth (TOPR2185) to remove dust from the model. stab; and a Trim Iron for small areas.
- 28 -
D. When you cover large sheeted surfaces such as Measure from the tip of the wing to the tip of the stab;
the wing, bond the covering in the middle and work adjusting the stab until the distance between the wing
outward, pushing out air as you proceed. Do not and the stab is equal on both sides.
move the iron in a circular motion, but move it length-
wise with the grain of the wood. ❏ 3. Carefully mark the location of the fuselage
basswood stringers where they make contact with
E. When you cover smaller parts with square edges the bottom of the stab. Cut away the covering on the
such as the elevators and ailerons, cover the ends bottom of the stab where you have marked the
first with separate pieces of covering. Then, all you stringer locations.
have to do is wrap the covering around the top and
bottom and iron it down.

F. When you cover sharp junctions like where the

stab meets the fuse, cut narrow strips of covering
(3/8 to 1/2" [10 to 13mm] wide) and apply them in the ❏ 7. Cut away the covering from the slot in the stab
corners before you cover the major surfaces. The for the fin. Insert the fin into the slot. Mark a line on
larger pieces of covering will overlap the smaller the fin where it contacts the stab. Remove the fin and
pieces. This technique also eliminates the need to cut away the covering below the line you have made
cut the covering after it has been applied. on the fin.
❏ 4. Place the stab back onto the fuselage. Stand
back 15' [381mm] and view the stab from the back of
Installing the Stab and Fin the fuselage. Look at the alignment between the stab
and the wing. Be sure that the stab and wing are
❏ 1. Before beginning the installation of the stab and aligned with each other. If they are not, sand away
fin you will most likely find it more convenient to cover some of material on the fuselage on the side of the
them before installing them to the fuselage. Apply the stab that is slightly high. Make these adjustments
covering to them now if you haven’t already. It is also until the stab is aligned with the wing.
a good idea to cover the elevator and rudder at this
❏ 8. Put the fin back into the slot. With a builders
time too. ❏ 5. Set the stab aside. Now would be a good time triangle, check to be sure that the fin is 90 degrees to
to paint or stain the open structure of the fuselage.
the stab. When you are satisfied with the fit and
Ours was painted with Top Flite LustreKote® paint. If
alignment glue the fin into the slot in the stab with
you choose to spray paint the structure, mask the
epoxy.
portion of the fuselage that you do not want paint on.
Spray on a couple of coats of primer, sanding
between coats. When you are satisfied with the finish
apply the color. You may also choose to brush on a
paint or stained finish. Just be sure that you use a
fuel proof paint.

❏ 6. After the paint is completely dried, lightly sand

the area of the stringers that will be in contact with
the bottom of the stab. Glue the stab to the fuselage
with epoxy. Double check the distance from the stab
❏ 2. Attach the wing to the fuselage. Place the stab into to the wing to be sure the stab and the wing are
position on the fuselage making sure it is centered. aligned. Set it aside until the epoxy cures.
- 29 -
Join the Control Surfaces The following steps are used only if you are using a
tail wheel.

❏ 6. Trial fit the hinges and the tail wheel wire into
the rudder. Trial fit the rudder to the stab inserting the
hinges into the hinge slots and the nylon tail wheel
bearing into the slot in the fuselage cross bracing.

❏ 1. Start with the stab and elevator. Remove a small

strip of covering from the hinge slots.

❏ 2. Test fit the hinges in only the stab or elevators

(without glue).

Epoxy

❏ 4. Cut a paper towel into 2" [50mm] squares. Add ❏ 7. When you are satisfied with the fit remove the
six drops of thin CA to the center of the hinges on rudder from the fin. Apply epoxy to the portion of the
both the top and bottom. The tunnels you drilled will tail wheel wire that fits into the rudder then slide the
wick the CA into the entire hinge surface. Use the wire into the rudder. Be careful not to get any epoxy
paper towel squares to absorb excess CA from the into the tail wheel bearing. Hint: A small amount of
hinge gap before it cures. petroleum jelly applied to the area where the wire
passes through the bearing will prevent glue from
getting into the bearing.

❏ 3. Join the elevators to the stab with the hinges. If

the hinges don’t remain centered as you join the If you have chosen to install the tailwheel assembly
elevators to the stab, remove the elevators and insert instead of the tail skid, skip step 5 and follow steps ❏ 8. Apply epoxy onto the nylon bearing where it will
a pin in the center of the hinges to keep them 6-10. If you chose the tail skid, step 5 completes the be inserted into the cross bracing. Apply some epoxy
centered. Make sure there is approximately a 1/64" instructions for joining the control surfaces. in the slot in the cross bracing as well. Insert the
[.5mm] gap between the elevators and the stab so rudder assembly into the fin. When you are satisfied
you do not glue them together. with the fit, wipe away any excess epoxy and then
apply thin CA to the hinges the same as you did for
the elevator.
Do not use CA accelerator on any of the hinges
and do not glue the hinges with anything but thin ❏ 5. Use the same hinging method to join the rudder to
CA. Do not attempt to glue one half of the hinge the fin and the ailerons to the wing. When installing the ❏ 9. Install the 1" [25mm] tail wheel (not included)
at a time. The hinges will not be properly secured ailerons be sure the aileron torque rod wire is firmly onto the wire with two 3/32" [2.4mm] wheel collars
and could come out while the model is in flight. glued into the hole in the aileron with 6-minute epoxy. and two 4-40 set screws.
- 30 -
Install the Elevator, Rudder Pushrods ❏ 8. Reference the plan to locate the position for the
and Control Horns nylon control horn on the bottom of the elevator.
Mark the location for the screw holes for the control
❏ 1. Locate the two 5/16" x 36" [7.9 x 914mm] wood horn. Drill a 3/32" [2.4mm] hole through the elevator
dowels. These will be the elevator and rudder pushrods. on each of these marks then harden the holes with a
Cut each of them to 24-1/2" [623mm] in length. couple of drops of thin CA.

❏ 9. Install the control horn onto the bottom of the

elevator. Install the two 2-56 machine screws through
the control horn and the control horn plate on the top
of the elevator.

❏ 10. Repeat steps 9 and 10 for installing the control

❏ 5. From the end of the dowel to the hole, cut a slot horn on the rudder.
❏ 2. Locate two .074 x 12" [1.9 x 305mm] wires the width of the hole.
threaded on one end. Cut them as shown in the sketch. 2-56 (.074") Pushrod Wire
Servo Arn

FasLink

❏ 11. Put a silicone clevis keeper over the threaded

end of the elevator wire then install the clevis onto
the wire approximately 20 turns. Connect the clevis
to the control horn. Center the elevator and the servo
arm. Align the wire under the arm of the servo horn,
mark the location where it crosses the hole in the
arm and then bend the wire on the mark. Install the
wire onto the servo horn arm with a nylon Faslink.
Cut off any excess wire extending beyond the Faslink
❏ 3. Bend each of the wires as shown, making two ❏ 6. Insert the end of the rod with the 1/4" [6mm] bend more than 1/16" [1.6mm].
sets of wires as shown in the sketch. into the dowel. Insert the threaded rod into one end and
the un-threaded rod into the other. Apply a small ❏ 12. Repeat step 11 for the rudder pushrod.
amount of thin CA to the rod and the dowel. Then allow
it to cure. Cut two pieces of heat shrink tubing to 2"
[51mm] in length, slide the heat shrink tubing over each
end of the dowel and then shrink it tight onto each of
the pushrod wires. Do this for both pushrods.

❏ 7. If you would like the pushrods to match the rear

❏ 4. From each end of the dowel measure in 1-1/2" structure of the fuselage, paint or stain them to
[38mm]. Drill a 5/64" [2mm] hole on the mark, drilling match. If you will be painting them, mask off the heat
through the dowel. shrink tubing. Paint will not stick to it very well.
- 31 -
Install the Aileron Pushrods and Scale Details
Control Horns Cotter pin
Looking at the photo on the box you will see that we
added a few extra details to our model. They are not
necessary for any structural integrity but we felt they
added a bit of nostalgic detail that you might want to
consider adding to your model.

Kingposts and Flying Wires

❏ 3. The flying wires are also made from the same

❏ 1. Locate the two nylon torque rod connectors. elastic cord and the installation is similar to the tail
Screw them onto the aileron torque rods approximately structure. Drill a small hole in the top of the kingpost
half way down the threaded rod. on the wing. Make the hole large enough to accept a
small cotter pin. We used a small brass cotter pin
2-56 (.074") Pushrod Wire from a Robart hinge but you can also find small ones
Servo Arn
in a hardware store. Glue the cotter pin into the
Kingpost so that the small loop faces out towards
FasLink each wing tip.
❏ 1. The open area at the rear of the fuselage has the
appearance of being rigged with wire. You could choose
to actually rig this area with a lightweight wire but we
used an elastic cord that you can easily obtain from a
fabric store. (This round cord is often used for making
elastic cuffs in a sleeve or pant leg). The benefit of the
elastic is that they always stay under tension and do not
sag like wire can, plus they are much easier to install.
Start by gluing one end of the elastic cord to one corner ❏ 4. You may recall when building the wing that there
with CA glue. With a little tension, pull the cord to the were four blocks installed in each wing half to attach the
next corner and glue it in place. Continue this until you wire to. Locate the previously drilled 1/16" [1.6mm] hole
have formed an “X” pattern inside each of the formers in each of the blocks in the top of the wing. Punch a
on the top, bottom and side. hole in the covering with a T-pin through the hole in
each of the four blocks. Cut a piece of the elastic cord
❏ 2. Locate two 6" [152mm] .072 wire pushrods ❏ 2. On the top of the wing and the bottom of the that is long enough to reach from the blocks closest to
threaded on one. Put a silicone clevis keeper over fuselage we have installed the kingposts. The kingpost the leading edge of the wing. Apply a drop of thin CA to
each of the wires. Install a nylon clevis on each wire on top of the wing are made from four 1/4" x 4-1/2" the tip of the elastic cord and roll the tip in your finger.
approximately 20 turns and then install the clevis [6mm x 115mm] hardwood dowels (not included in The cord will stiffen from the glue and can then be
onto the torque rod connector. Center the ailerons the kit). The kingpost on the bottom of the fuselage is easily inserted into the hole in the block. Insert the
and the servo arm. Align the wires under the arms of made from four 1/4" x 2-1/2" [6mm x 64mm] dowels. stiffened cord into the hole you drilled in the block.
the servo arm, mark the location where it crosses the The dowels are cut at an angle and glued together Apply a drop of thin CA to keep it in place. Feed the
hole in the arm and then bend the wire on the mark. where the four dowels meet. The bottom of the post cord through the cotter pin in the top of the kingpost and
Install the wire onto the servo arm with a nylon is sanded to match the surface of the wing/fuselage. then stiffen the end of the cord and insert it into the hole
Faslink. Cut off any excess wire extending beyond The dowels should be glued together and glued to in the other wood block. Repeat this for all four wires in
the Faslink more than 1/16" [1.6mm]. the wing/fuselage with 6-minute epoxy. the top of each wing half.
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 cord towards the center of the fuselage. Join the left
and right wing wires by inserting a #2 sheet metal
screw into the two landing gear straps and then
screwing them into the kingpost.

❏ ❏ 5. Turn the wing over and locate the 1/16"

[1.6mm] holes in each of the blocks in the bottom
wing. With a T-pin, punch through the covering into
each of the holes in the blocks. Insert and glue the Machine Gun ❏ 2. Cut the windshield as shown on the pattern on
cord into one of the blocks in the right wing. Feed the the plan. Glue it in place with a white aliphatic glue
cord through a nylon landing gear strap (not included) like Pacer canopy glue (PAAR3300).
or something similar. Then glue the opposite end of
the cord into another block on the same side of the ❏ 3. Glue the pilot in place. We trimmed the
wing. Repeat this for the two remaining blocks in the shoulders from a Williams Brothers 1/6-scale
right wing. Standard pilot (WBRQ2476) and glued him directly
to the floor of the cockpit.
❏ 6. Repeat step 5 for the left wing.

Final Hookups and checks

❏ 1. Mount your wheels to the landing gear with a

1/8" [3mm] wheel collar on both sides of both wheels.
❏ 1. The machine gun is a nice touch! We used the Secure the wheel collars with a drop of thread lock
Williams Brothers 1/6 scale Vickers machine
on the set screws. Note: We recommend you file a
gun (WBRQ3560).
small flat spot on the landing gear wire where the set
screws are located.

❏ 2. Take the servo arms off the servos and turn on

your transmitter and receiver. Then, center all the
trims. Reinstall all the servo arms and secure them
with the screws.
Cockpit and Pilot
❏ 3. Double-check all the servos and make sure the
❏ 1. Cockpit coaming gives a finished look to the servo arms are secure and all the clevises have a
cockpit. This can be made from black neoprene fuel silicone retainer.
tubing (DUBQ0455) or Fourmost Cockpit Coaming
(FORQ2014). If you choose neoprene fuel tubing, ❏ 4. Be sure the tank is securely in place. A scrap
❏ 7. Drill a 1/16" [1.6mm] hole through the center of simply cut a slit in the tubing. Slide the slit tubing onto balsa stick glued across the width of the fuselage
the kingpost on the bottom of the fuselage. Pull the the edge of the cockpit and then glue it in place with CA. works well.
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❏ 5. Make sure the control surfaces move in the CONTROL THROWS
proper direction as illustrated in the following sketch.
High rate Low Rate
Aileron 3/8" [9.5mm] Up 1/4" [6mm] Up
3/8" [9.5mm] Down 1/4" [6mm] Down

Elevator 5/8" [16mm] Up 7/16" [11mm] Up

HOW TO MARK THE BALANCE POINT
5/8" [16mm] Down 7/16" [11mm] Down
The balance point is measured from the leading
Rudder 3/4" [19mm] Right 1/2" [13mm] Right edge down the bottom center of the wing. Mark the
3/4" [19mm] Left 1/2" [13mm] Left balance point outward a few inches so you can see
where to lift the wing when it’s bolted to the fuse. To
do this, mark the balance point with a felt tip pen or
tape on both ends of the center section. Place a
straightedge across the marks. Mark the balance
point along the straightedge further out on the wing.
Mount the wing to the fuselage.

GET YOUR MODEL READY TO FLY

3-1/2" [89mm]
Balance your Model

NOTE: This section is VERY important and must

NOT be omitted! A model that is not properly
balanced will be unstable and possibly unflyable.

❏ 1. See the Expert Tip that follows to accurately mark

the balance point on the bottom of the wing on both
sides of the fuselage. The balance point is shown on
the plan (CG), and is located 3-1/2" (89mm) back from
the leading edge at the wing root as shown in the
sketch and on the plans. This is the balance point at ❏ 2. With the wing attached to the fuselage and an
which your model should be balanced for your first empty fuel tank, lift the model at the balance point.
flights. Later, you may experiment by shifting the We use the Great Planes C.G. Machine™ (shown in
balance up to 1/2" [13mm] forward or 1/2" [13mm] back the sketch). If the tail drops, the model is tail heavy
to change the flying characteristics. If you move the and you must shift your battery pack or other
balance point forward it may improve the smoothness components forward or add weight to the nose. If the
and tracking, but your Elder may then require more nose drops, it is nose heavy and you must shift your
speed for takeoff and become more difficult to slow for battery pack or other components aft or add weight
❏ 6. Adjust your pushrod hookups and set up your landing. If you move the balance aft it may make your to the tail. In order to save weight, relocate your
radio to provide the control surface movements as Elder more agile with a lighter feel and allow you to slow battery pack and/or receiver or other components
follows. Use a ruler or a Great Planes AccuThrow the model more for landing. In any case, please start at before you add additional weight to arrive at the
Control Surface Deflection Meter (GPMR2405) to the location we recommend and do not at any time correct C.G. You may install nose weight by using a
measure the throws. balance your model outside the recommended range. spinner weight or gluing lead weights to the firewall.
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You may add tail weight by sticking on Great Planes Range check your radio
(GPMQ4485) stick-on lead weights on the bottom of
the fuselage under the tail. Later, if the balance Ground check the range of your radio before the first
proves to be OK, you can glue these in permanently. flight of the day. With the transmitter antenna
Our prototype required 12 oz. [340g] of weight to be collapsed and the receiver and transmitter on, you
added to the nose. should be able to walk at least 100 feet away from
the model and still have control. Have an assistant
stand by your model and, while you work the
controls, tell you what the control surfaces are doing.
Repeat this test with the engine running at various
speeds with an assistant holding the model, using
hand signals to show you what is happening. If the
PREFLIGHT control surfaces do not respond correctly, do not fly!
We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer” Find and correct the problem first. Look for loose
Identify your model (TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a Great servo connections or broken wires, corroded wires
Planes Fingertip Prop Balancer (GPMQ5000) in our on old servo connectors, poor solder joints in your
No matter if you fly at an AMA sanctioned R/C club flight box. battery pack or a defective cell in your battery pack,
site or if you fly somewhere on your own, you should or a damaged receiver crystal from a previous crash.
always have your name, address, telephone number
and AMA number on or inside your model. It is Find a safe place to fly
required at all AMA R/C club flying sites and AMA
sanctioned flying events. Fill out the identification The best place to fly your model is an AMA chartered
sticker included in the manual and place it on or R/C club flying field. Contact the AMA (their address CHECK LIST
inside your model. is on page 3) or your hobby shop dealer for the club During the last few moments of preparation your
in your area and join it. Club fields are intended for mind may be elsewhere anticipating the
R/C flying, making your outing safer and more excitement of your first flight. Because of this, you
Charge your batteries enjoyable. The AMA also provides insurance in case may be more likely to overlook certain checks
of a flying accident. If an R/C flying field is not and procedures that should be performed after
Follow the battery charging procedures in your radio available, find a large, grassy area at least six miles your model is built. To help avoid this, we’ve
instruction manual. You should always charge your from buildings, streets, and other R/C activities. A provided a checklist to make sure you don’t
transmitter and receiver batteries the night before schoolyard is usually not an acceptable area because overlook these important areas. Many are covered
you go flying, and at other times as recommended of people, power lines and possible radio interference. in the instruction manual, so where appropriate,
by the radio manufacturer.
refer to the manual for complete instructions. Be
sure to check the items off as you complete them
(that’s why we call it a check list!).
Balance your propellers Ground check your model
❏ 1. Fuelproof all areas exposed to fuel or
Carefully balance your propellers before you fly. An If you are not thoroughly familiar with the operation exhaust residue such as the firewall, engine
unbalanced prop is the single most significant cause of R/C models, ask an experienced modeler to compartment, fuel tank compartment, wing
of vibration that can damage your model. Not only inspect your radio installation and control surface saddle area, trailing edge of the wing and the
will engine mounting screws and bolts loosen, set-up. Follow the engine manufacturer’s instructions flap area and wheel wells (if your model has
possibly with disastrous effect, but vibration may to break-in your engine. After you run the engine on flaps and retracts), etc.
also damage your radio receiver and battery. your model, inspect your model closely to make sure ❏ 2. Check the C.G. according to the
Vibration can also cause your fuel to foam, which all screws remain tight and your pushrods and measurements provided in the manual.
will, in turn, cause your engine to run hot or quit. connectors are secure.
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 ❏ 3. Secure the battery and receiver with a strip ❏ 20. Balance your propeller (and spare propellers). Use a chicken stick or electric starter and follow the
of balsa or plywood. Simply stuffing them into ❏ 21. Tighten the propeller nut and spinner. instructions to start your engine.
place with foam rubber is not sufficient. ❏ 22. Place your name, address, AMA number and
❏ 4. Extend your receiver antenna and make sure it telephone number on or inside your model. Make certain the glow plug clip or connector is
has a strain relief inside the fuselage to keep ❏ 23. Cycle your receiver battery pack (if necessary) secure so that it will not pop off or get into the
tension off the solder joint inside the receiver. and make sure it is fully charged. running propeller.
❏ 5. Balance your model laterally as explained in ❏ 24. If you wish to photograph your model, do
the instructions. this before your first flight. Ask an assistant to hold the model from the rear
❏ 6. File flat spots on landing gear wires and ❏ 25. Range check your radio when you get to the while you start the engine and operate the controls.
axles for the set screws to lock onto. flying field.
❏ 7. Secure critical fasteners with thread locking Make all engine adjustments from behind the rotating
compound (the screws that hold the propeller.
carburetor arm, set screws on wheel collars ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
and slip-on type axles, screw-lock pushrod The engine gets hot! Do not touch the engine during
connectors, etc.). NOTE: Failure to follow these safety precautions or immediately after you operate it. Make sure fuel
❏ 8. Add a drop of oil to the axles so the wheels may result in severe injury to yourself and others. lines are in good condition so fuel will not leak onto
will turn freely. a hot engine and cause a fire.
❏ 9. Make sure all hinges are securely glued in Store model fuel in a safe place away from high
place. heat, sparks or flames. Do not smoke near the To stop the engine, close the carburetor barrel
❏ 10. Reinforce holes for wood screws with thin engine or fuel as it is very flammable. Engine (rotor) or pinch the fuel line to discontinue the fuel
CA where appropriate (control horns, servo exhaust gives off a great deal of deadly carbon flow. Do not use your hands, fingers or any body part
hatches, etc,). monoxide so do not run the engine in a closed room to stop the engine. Never throw anything into the
❏ 11. Confirm that all controls operate in the or garage. prop of a running engine.
correct direction and the throws are set up
according to the manual. Get help from an experienced pilot when you learn
❏ 12. Make sure there are silicone retainers on all to operate engines.
the clevises. AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpt)
❏ 13. Fasten all servo arms to the servos with the Use safety glasses when you operate model engines.
screws included with your radio. Read and abide by the following Academy of Model
❏ 14. Secure connections between servo wires Do not run the engine near loose gravel or sand; the Aeronautics Official Safety Code:
and servo extensions, and the connection propeller may throw loose material in your face or eyes.
between your battery pack and the on/off GENERAL
switch with vinyl tape or heat shrink tubing. When you start and run the engine, keep your face
❏ 15. Make sure any servo extension cords you and body as well as all spectators away from the 1. I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned
may have used do not interfere with other plane of rotation of the propeller. events, air shows, or model flying demonstrations
systems (servo arms, pushrods, etc.). until it has been proven to be airworthy by having
❏ 16. Secure the pressure tap to the muffler with Always be aware and very conscious of hand been previously successfully flight tested.
high temp RTV silicone, thread locking movements and be deliberate in your reach for the
compound or J.B. Weld. needle valve, glow plug clip, or other items near a 2. I will not fly my model aircraft higher than
❏ 17. Use nylon ties on both ends of the silicone spinning propeller. approximately 400 feet within 3 miles of an airport
tube connecting the muffler to the header. without notifying the airport operator. I will give right
❏ 18. Make sure your fuel lines and pressure lines Keep loose clothing, shirt sleeves, ties, scarves, long of way to, and avoid flying in the proximity of full
are connected and are not kinked. hair or loose objects away from the prop. Be scale aircraft. Where necessary an observer shall be
❏ 19. Use an incidence meter to check the wing conscious of pencils, screw drivers or other objects used to supervise flying to avoid having models fly in
for twists and attempt to correct before flying. that may fall out of your shirt or jacket pockets. the proximity of full scale aircraft.
- 36 -
3. Where established, I will abide by the safety rules the plane to the runway and point it directly into the
for the flying site I use, and I will not willfully and wind. Once pointed into the wind, slowly accelerate
deliberately fly my models in a careless, reckless the airplane until the tail comes up. Once the tail has
This model belongs to:
and/or dangerous manner. come off of the ground apply a small amount of
elevator and the plane will do a nice climb out.
7. I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my Name
name and address or AMA number, on or in the Flight
model. Address
The Elder has a reputation of being a gentle flying
9. I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any sport plane, which it is. You will find it very enjoyable City, State Zip
device that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of to fly around at slow speeds and for making slow
any kind). passes right down the runway. You will also find that
Phone number
the plane will perform mild aerobatics with ease.
RADIO CONTROL Loops, rolls, hammerheads and inverted flight are all
within the capabilities of the Elder. AMA number
1. I will have completed a successful radio equipment
ground check before the first flight of a new or Landing
repaired model.
Landings are quite easy for the Elder. Start your
2. I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of approach from approximately 50’ [152m], lined up
spectators until I become a qualified flier, unless with the runway. Gradually reduce power, allowing
assisted by an experienced helper. the nose to settle. When the plane is approximately
3’ [3m] above the runway, gradually begin to flare
3. I will perform my initial turn after takeoff away from until the plane settles in for a nice three point
the pit or spectator areas, and I will not thereafter fly landing. You will find that the Elder does not have
over pit or spectator areas, unless beyond my any bad habits when landing. However, if you find
control. yourself landing in a cross wind, the wire tail skid will
not provide the ground control that you may otherwise
4. I will operate my model using only radio control have in a steerable tail wheel. If a crosswind landing
frequencies currently allowed by the Federal is the only option, keep the airspeed slightly higher
Communications Commission... on your landing approach to keep more air flowing
past the fin. You will also find that grass is much
FLYING more forgiving than asphalt when landing in a
crosswind.
The Top Flite Elder is a great flying sport plane that
flies smoothly at all flying speeds. Though the plane Good luck and have a great time flying!
has a nostalgic “slow fly” look to it, it is capable of
performing mild aerobatics as well.

Takeoff

Because the Elder uses a tail skid (if you installed

the skid) instead of a steerable tailwheel, you may
find taxiing a little different than you are accustomed
to. For the first flight we recommend that you carry
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B C
D A