DR Ivan - Clandestine Chemist's Notebook, The

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Welcome to the very first version of The Clandestine Chemist's
Dr.Ivan's Fortean Photo Vault Notebook. Originally I had the idea of making this information into a
Mailbag website. But after reading articles about certain people being
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arrested for information they had posted on their websites (in
America by the way), I decided a text file would be better suited for
information such as what you are about to read. My main reason for
choosing to put this information in a text file is because I am pretty
much allowed to say whatever I want. A website draws too much
unwanted attention from very unrespectable American Bureaus.
Let me cut to the chase. Basicly, this is a handbook that will explain
to you exactly how to manufacture illegal drugs. I must state here
that this manual is not a ripoff of "The Anarchist Cookbook." The
methods explained within this text file are proven syntheses for
manufacturing illegal drugs. You will not find any "Make speed from
Vicks Nasal Inhalers", or "Make real LSD from Morning Glory Seeds"
in this text file.
If you are under the age of 18, I highly suggest that you not read any
further. I suggest that you get rid of this file, and act like you never
saw it. There is a simple reason why: If you are under 18, and your
parents find this "Drug Lab Notebook" hiding under your bed, you
will be in serious trouble for sure. Also, you just add to the anti-drug
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The Clandistine Chemist's Notebook http://dr.ivan.tripod.com/id17.html
war. Every time a parent finds this sort of information under a

minor's bed, something happens. Which is always one point against
people such as myself.
This manual may shock you. You will discover exactly how simple it
is to make drugs in your own kitchen. There are some things that I
have not added to this text file, like how to make LSD for example. I
did not put any LSD Synthesis in this manual because the
manufacture of LSD normally requires a Laboratory that has had a
few thousand dollars dumped into it. LSD is not a very practical drug
for a normal Joe like yourself to manufacture, since it requires
college level chemistry schooling. I have added to this text file as
many drugs as I thought you might enjoy.
You will also find a few sections in here that are focused towards
extractions, and Growing. I am not putting anything in this text file
that tell you how to grow Marijuana, just how to extract the good
stuff. However, I am putting in an area on growing Mushrooms.
Mainly though, this text file is focused towards manufacturing, not
growing.
I must stress to you that you do not carry out the information
contained within this text file. As with most 'Underground' text files,
this is for informational, and entertainment purposes only. It is
somewhat funny, but I have never manufactured an illegal drug.
However, chemistry is a subject of mine that I love, I also do Drugs.
Since these two mental states are combined (Love of Chemistry, and
Love of Drugs), I tend to research drug manufacture alot. Just
remember that if you were to actually carry out any of the
information contained in this text file, that it is quite possible you will
be busted by the Government, and thrown in Prison for and
estimated 10 years for Manufacturing a Controlled Substance. Not a
very fun situation at all, I'm sure.
You should be expecting a few other text file's coming out sometime
soon related to similar subjects. So keep an eye out, and drop me an
E-Mail if you have ANY suggestions. Any information you have, I will
probably find a use for. I will include whatever decent information
you have in any text file I produce.
You may distribute this document freely to whomever you would like
to. Under a few conditions of course. #1 You will not omit my name
from this file. #2 You will not edit any of the text. However, if you
decide to copy this file onto a webpage, and compile it into an HTML,
you may delete the ASCII art for convenience. You may also print
this file out onto Paper, and distribute it among your friends. In all
fairness, make them pay you $2 for the paper.
So, enjoy your reading. This is an education process. Knowledge

that you 'should not be permitted to know.' You're now fighting the
system by gaining this knowledge. The system doesn't want you to
have this information floating around in your brain, because it gives
you power. Keep up the good fight.
CONTENTS
1. Methamphetamine Crystal Meth, Speed
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* Birch Reduction Methamphetamine #1

* Birch Reduction Methamphetamine #2
* RXN Methamphetamine #3
* RXN Methamphetamine #4
* Getting Red Phosphorus from Matchbooks
2. Methcathinone Cat, Jeff
* Methcathinone Manufacture #1
* Methcathinone Manufacture #2
3. GHB Liquid E, Date Rape Drug
* GHB Manufacture #1
* GHB Manufacture #2
4. MDMA Ecstasy, X
* MDMA Manufacture #1
5. Phencyclidine PCP, Angel Dust
* Phencyclidine Manufacture #1
6. Cocaine Coke, Blow
* Cocaine Manufacture
7. Opiates Heroin, Codeine
* Extracting Codeine from Codeine Pills
* Converting Codeine into Morphine, then into Heroin
* Synthetic Heroin Synthesis (fentanyl)
* Codeinone from Thebaine
* Conversion of Thebaine to Codeine
* Conversion of Oxycodone to Oxymorphone
8. Marijuana Weed, Bud
* Extracting Hash Oil using Butane
* Extracting Hashish
9. Psilocybin Shrooms, Caps
* Growing Psilocybin Mushrooms
10. Salvia Divinorum Dream Herb, Salvia
* Producing Salvia Extract
11. DMT & 5-MeO-DMT Toad Venom
* Milking 5-MeO-DMT from Toads
* Extracting DMT from Plants
* DMT & DET Synthesis
12. Ketamine Special K
* Ketamine Manufacture from Scratch #1
* Ketamine Synthesis #2
13. Dextromethorphan DXM, Red Devil's
* DXM Coricidin Extraction
* Simplified Acid/Base Extraction of DXM
* Converting DXM into DXO
METHAMPHETAMINE
First chapter of the book; How to Make Methamphetamine.

Otherwise known as Crystal Meth, Speed, Crank, etc. Remember that
Methamphetamine is a dirty drug, it is quite literally made out of
Poisons.
There are two different types of Methods described here. #1 is the

RXN (cooking dope using Red Phosphorus, etc), and the Birch
Reduction (cooking dope with Anhydrous Ammonia). These
methods do work they will produce plenty of Crystal Meth for you,
and your friends.
Here are the Recipes:
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Birch Reduction Methamphetamine #1
INGREDIENTS:
* 750 pills containing 60mg psuedoephedrine (preferably Sudafed 24

hr, each pill has 240 mg in it, so you would only have to use about
190 pills instead). Warning: do not try to buy more than 3 boxes of
these anywhere, shop around, and don't buy any pills with
acetaminophen in it (its for headaches), it will destroy your batch.
* 5 lithium batteries (these are photo batteries, E2 blue package)
* 2 cans of Coleman's, or generic brand lantern fuel.
* One bottle of heavy duty drain cleaner (go to a hardware store, find
the bottle with the skull and cross bones on it).
* One container of UN-iodized salt
* This is the tricky part, have to have access to some kind of an
Anhydrous Ammonia tank, think co-ops or farm fields (your going to
have to do this undercover).
SUPPLIES
* 5 or 6 regular size mason jars.

* 1 20oz pop bottle, completely dry with lid
* Tubing, thin enough to fit into an airtight hole on the pop bottle lid.
* Coffee filters
* 3 coolers, 1 big, 1 medium, 1 small
* A Safe place to do it
* Hose from a car wash vacuum. You don't want the nozzle, just
about 8 feet of the hose.
* About $10 worth of dry ice
PREPERATION:
1. CRUSH UP ALL YOUR PILLS (coffee grinder, blender), AND PUT

THEM IN A PLASTIC BAGGIE OR WHATEVER.
2. STRIP THE BATTERIES: Take needle nose pliers, and peel all the
skin off the batteries, and in the very center there will be a silver
strip. This is the lithium. You will know it because it will start to get
warm once it touches air. Immediately throw these into your small
cooler that has a good amount of Coleman's lantern fluid sitting in it.
This fluid will chill these lithium strips out and keep you safe.
(REMEMBER THIS SMELLS, NOT TERRIBLE, BUT KEEP IT IN MIND)
3. GET READY: This is the scary part. You are going to have to go
out and steal a small amount of anhydrous ammonia from some
unknowing farmer or a Co-op. All you need to take with you is your
baggie with the crushed pills, your cooler with the lithium strips, and
the hose. This is how you will do this step.
INSTRUCTIONS
1. Have a trusted friend drive you to a safe spot to get dropped off
near the tank, on some dirt road where you can get out and not be
detected. Have him stop, you jump out, be careful for what you are
carrying and run to a place you can hide for a few seconds.
2. Asses the situation, get to a point where you can scope out the
tank from a safe, yet clear distance. Get a feeling for the area and
make sure it is clear. Now swallow your balls and creep up to the
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tank.
3. Slide one end of the hose over the nozzle of the tank, and put the
other end into the cooler with the lithium strips. Turn the pressure of
the tank on and off quickly. Be careful not to let too much come out
at a time. Just turn it on for about 5 seconds, then turn it off look
around. Repeat about 6-7 times.
4. Now for all you curious georges, the reason you do this is
because this is the only thing (besides FREEON R-12, which you
could use as well) that is cold enough to melt the lithium. Note: be
CAREFUL, this shit can fuck up your skin and it is hard to be around
this because its hard to breathe, but this is one of the risks you must
take if you choose to do this.
5. Once you have completed this, add your pill powder to the mix,
this is called the MUD. Stir this up quickly get it mixed together well.
Have your buddy pick you up. Time it so your total drop off time is
no longer than 10-15 minutes.
6. Go back to your safe spot. Add a little more lantern fluid to the
mix. Don't be suprised if your little cooler is hissing and making
funny noises, this is normal. The chemicals are reacting with each
other. Let this sit for a little bit (20 minutes). The liquid in this is
called the 'Rinse' for further reference to it. Put your dry ice in the
big cooler, and place the small one into it (this takes care of the
smell, not crucial, but it helps).
7. Prepare the acid pump. Take your 20oz bottle; make sure it is
COMPLETELY dry. Drill a hole in the lid to fit your tubing through.
Put tubing in so there is more coming out of the top, and put hot
glue or something around the hole so that it is airtight. Pour a
generous amount of the salt into the bottle and add the smallest bit
of the drain cleaner. Put the lid on, and shake this up. It should be
reacting, forming a cloud inside the bottle. Let this sit for a minute
while you prepare the first Mason jar.
8. Take one of the mason jars. Make sure that this is also
COMPLETELY dry. Put a paper plate folded up like a funnel, with the
smallest possible hole onto the mason jar, and pour some of your
"rinse" into the funnel and let it go into the jar. This should take
about 4 minutes because your funnel is very tight, the liquid that
remains in the jar will be clear.
9. Now you have your little makeshift pop bottle/acid pump. Put the
little hose coming out of it into the Mason jar, not into the actual
liquid. The gas should be slowly coming out of the tube. If it's not,
give your bottle a couple of light squeezes. The gas will stay in the
Mason jar, and go into the liquid by itself, making it cloudy.
10. Now you will see something dropping from the liquid to the
bottom of your jar, and a film sticking to the side of it. This is your
methamphetamine.
11. Have another clean mason jar ready with a coffee filter on top of
it securely. Pour the contents of your first jar into this one. What
stays on the filter is the crank. Either scrape it off, or leave it on and
let it dry under a light or whatever. There you have it. Exciting, huh?
12. Repeat until you have nothing left. If every thing went right you
will have yielded 25-30 grams of methamphetamine
Birch Reduction Methamphetamine #2
MATERIALS:
* 2 Liter Bottle (with cap)
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* 1 Liter Bottle (get 2 caps for it)

* 20 oz. Bottle (with cap)
* 1 Quart Jar
* 2 ft. 1/4in. diameter rubber/plastic hose (aquarium hose works
good) Coffee Filters
* 1 Funnel
* 1 Tubing Cutter
* 2 Plyers
* 1 Roll of Ductape or Electrical Tape
* 1 Blender or Food Processor
INGREDIENTS:
* 200 60mg Pseudophedrine HCL pills (Actifed, Sudafed, Suphedrine,

etc.)
* 1 1/2 cups Ammonium Nitrate fertilizer (33-0-0)
* 3 cans starting fluid
* 3 AA Energizer Lithuim Batteries
* 1 bottle Red Devil brand Lye
* 2 caps of water (use the top off the 2 liter)
* 1 box Iodized Salt
* 1 bottle Liquid Fire brand drain opener
PROCEDURE:
1. Rinse and dry out all of your bottles. Be sure to get ALL of the
moisture out. Don't go any further until they are completely dry.
2. Put your pills into the blender or food processor and grind them
into powder. Mix them in with the 1 1/2 cups of Ammoniun Nitrate
fertilizer. Use the funnel to pour the mixture into the 2 liter bottle.
3. Hold your cans of starting fluid upside-down and hold the button
until all of the air is out. Once the air is out, use a screwdriver (I use
a bottle opener.) to poke a hole in the bottom of the cans. Using the
funnel again, pour the liquid (ethyl ether) out of the cans into the 2
Liter with the Ammonium Nitrate/pills mixture.
4. Now you have to take the Lithium strips out of the batteries (This
is why I recommend being experienced.). Tighten the tubing cutter
onto the center of the battery and spin it around until the metal
casing is cut. Be careful not to cut into the guts of the battery. If you
mess up the battery may become extremely hot and catch fire. Next
take your 2 plyers and grab each end of the battery. Pull each side of
the casing off. Once the insides are out of the casing, place them in
an air tight container (Tupperware, Rubbermaid, etc.). They can be
stored for up to 3 hours. The lithium will become very volatile if
exposed to moisture in the air or water. Be careful!
5. Unroll the guts of the first battery and remove the Lithium strip.
There are two strips in a Lithium battery, so be sure not to get the
wrong one. You do not want the one that has shiny metal around the
edges. Tear the Lithium strip into tiny pieces and place them in the 2
Liter. Do the same with the other two batteries.
6. Take the cap off your bottle of Lye and fill its cap with it. Pour this
into the 2 Liter as well. Use the funnel!
7. Take the top of the 2 Liter and fill it with water. Pour the water into
the 2 Liter. Repeat once. You should see little bubble floating to the
top of the liquid in the bottle. Place the cap on the bottle and swish it
around a little (do not shake!).
8. Now your dope is cooking (I call it "rolling"). About every 5
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minutes loosen the cap a little to release the pressure and to make it
"roll" a little harder. After about 10 seconds re-tighten the cap. Don't
breathe too deeply, because gaseous ammonia is released.
9. You have to keep adding Lye or your dope will stop "rolling".
About every 20 minutes add about 1 cap (use the cap off the lye
bottle!) of Lye. Tighten the top tight on the 2 Liter and shake the
bottle vigorously for about 8 seconds. Loosen the top, releasing the
pressure, and the dope will start "rolling" perfectly. Repeat every 20
minutes. You do not want to use more than 2/3 bottle of Lye, so you
may have to adjust the amount you add or how often you add it to
make it go for 2 hours.
10. After 2 hours, your dope is through "rolling". Get the funnel and
place it in the 1 Liter bottle. Put two coffee filters in the funnel and
pour the liquid from the 2 Liter through them into the 1 liter bottle.
Pour a little at a time to make sure you don't let any get outside the
filters. Once the 1 liter is filled, tighten the top on it all the way. It'll
ruin your dope if you let dirt or moisture get into it.
11. Take the 2nd top to the 1 liter and the top to the 20 oz. and cut
holes in them barely big enough to fit the plastic/rubber hose into.
Put each end of the hose into each top and make them air tight using
ductape or electrical tape. Make sure you use a clean hose!
12. Remove the cap from the 1 liter bottle and screw on the one with
the hose attached to it. Pour iodized salt into your 20 oz. until it is
filled about 1/2 inch from the bottom. Take the cap from your 2 liter
or another cap the same size and fill it with Liquid Fire. Pour the
Liquid Fire onto the salt and tightly screw the top attached to the
other end of the hose onto the 20 oz. Shake the 20 oz. left-to-right for
about 4 seconds. Pump (squeeze and release) it once and sit it
down. Smoke will begin the fill the 1 liter. As the smoke begins to go
into the liquid, you will see the dope "fall". It looks snow. When the
smoke stops, take the top off the 1 liter and tie a knot in the hose.
Put the other top back on the 1 liter and shake it vigorously for 30
seconds. Let the crystal settle. Put the funnel over the jar with 2 new
coffee filters it it and pour the liquid through them. A little bit of meth
gets caught in the filters, but the rest stays in the bottle. Cut the top
half of the bottle off and use a hair dryer to dry the crystal. Snort it or
smoke it and get high as a bat.
RXN METHAMPHETAMINE #3
This reaction is brought about the same as every other push/pull

RXN. You have to know how to extract psuedoephedrine(E) and
clean it, you have to know how to extract the red phosphorus(RP) off
matchbooks (or where ever you get it from), and how to properly
clean the red phosphorus. you must also know how to clean up your
iodine(I2) to a proper grade. I am not going to go into how to do
these procedures as they are covered in seperate pages. with this
easy to follow synth, I will start at mixing the reactants and where to
go from there.
What you will need:
* Flask with nipple connection

* Stopper (that fits the flask)
* Electric Burner
* Candy Thermometer
* 1 and 1/2ft. of plastic tubing to fit on the nipple of your flask
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* Separatory Funnel
* Chemical Resistant latex gloves
* Visionware Glass Bowl or pot.
* Regular cooking pot
* Distilled H2O
* RedDevil Lye
* Hydrocloric acid (Muriatic Acid)
* Duct Tape
* Litmus Paper
* Non-Polar Solvent (Colemans Fuel, Toluene...)
Ok here is how it goes. Use the 1 part E, to 1.2 parts I2, to .8 parts RP
ratio for reactions under 1oz. So for example you would use 10g of
E, 12g of I2, and 8g of RP. First take the RP and the E and mix well in
a plastic baggie. Take this and pour it into your flask, covering the
bottom of it. Next pour in your I2 and close with a solid rubber
stopper. Duct tape this on so it dont pop off during the reaction. you
should all ready have your foot and a half of plastic tubing secured
onto the nipple of the flask, and a pair of your chemical resistant
gloves on. After you get the 3 goodies mixed in the bottom of the
flask you will want to hold the end of the tubing closed with your
thumb.(gloves on!)
Sit back and watch it start to react. Sometimes it will react right away
and sometimes not. Just watch and see. It will start turning to a
muddy texture, and then to a liquid. Every once and a while release
pressure in the flask by moving your thumb. now it will not always
turn liquid before the cook. not totally liquid anyway. Just sit back
releasing pressure when it gets great and wait for the reaction to
really slow down.
Alright, everything going good so far? Not too hard heh? Now you
will want to cook the reaction to get it going again. Before you start
all of this put your regular cooking pot on your electric burner and
find out where the dial is at 150F. So turn on your burner and set it at
150F. Put your cooking pot with a little water or vegetable oil in the
bottom on the burner, and put your flask in that. after a few minutes
this bitch will really get cookin. It will start bubbling and the mixture
will expand. All in all it is going to start to get a little crazy. Every few
minutes pick up the flask and shake and stir it up a little. And usually
release a little pressure every shake or every other shake. You will
be able to feel the pressure building up on your thumb. When it gets
bad release a little
Just keep this going for while. You will want to slowly turn up the
heat to about 180F over a 20 minute period. The push part of the
reaction will keep going for about 20 minutes to 45 minutes. It
usually lasted for about half an hour in my dreams. You will know
when to stop cooking when the push stops. (when no more gas is
being pushed out of the flask. When this has occured be sure to
keep your thunb over the tubing and take the flask out of the pot and
just set it on the counter. From this point on, you are going to keep
your thumb tightly over the tubing until the flask has cooled down.
During the cooling you want to pick up the flask with your other
hand and stir and shake the ingredients in the flask every few
minutes. It will probaly take about 20 minutes (if that) for the flask to
cool down. You want it to be cool enough to hold in your hand with
8 of 64
out burning yourself. You will feel the pull start as your vessel cools
down. it will be trying to suck air back into the flask now. You are
aloud a very little bit of air into the flask but not much at all.
Remember to keep stirring and shaking the flask during the cooling.
When the flask has cooled down to a suitable state, (keeping your
thumb over the tubing still) stick your thumb and the end of the
tubing into a bowl of distilled H20 and release. The vacuum in the
flask will pull water into the flask. Dont let to much into the flask just
a little. now pull the tubing out of the water and let it suck air into the
tubing. Thats it. thats the reaction. not to hard hey? Now lets clean
up that chilli. All ready smelling success? wait and see.
Shake up the chilli/H20 in the flask, take off the duct tape and the
stopper, and pour directly into the clean visionware bowl. now pour
a little more distilled water into empty flask (just a little) and shake
up real good. this is just to get out the rest of what ever is left in the
flask. put the bowl on the burner and turn on high. bring to a boil
while stirring with a clean plastic spoon. This will get the some chilli
that is stuck on the RP off of it. turn of burner and let sit for a minute
or two. be sure to save all your RP so you can wash it and reuse it
later.
While this is cooling off a little, grab your funnel and put in 3 coffee
filters and stuff a cotton ball in the tip of the funnel. put this over a
clean glass jar. now pour everything that is in the visionware bowl
into the funnel. it will take a while to filter because of the RP. once all
the meth water is filtered through, into the glass jar, pour it back
through the same filters (with the RP in it) again. you will want to do
this at least 4 times. just keep pouring it through the same
filter/cottonballs. now it should have a yellowish collor, but not foggy
at all. it should be very clear.
Pour this into your separatory funnel, and add just a little ice. now
pour in a little colemans fuel (or toluene). add a little less than the
amount of water/meth you have in there. now slowly add a little lye
to the sep. funnel, and shake well. drop a small drip onto your litmus
paper to test the Ph. (you will be testing the water/meth layer, NOT
the colemans fuel layer) you want the Ph to be 12. (yellow) if it is not
a Ph of 12 then add a little more lye and shake the hell out of it and
test again. keep doing this till it test out at 12. After it test at 12 drop
in a tablespoon of table salt, and shake well. Now we are going to
seperate the layers in the funnel. We want to keep the NP Solvent
(Colemans), not the water/lye layer.
Put the water layer in a jar and set aside. you can test for meth later.
Keep the colemans fuel/meth in the seperatory funnel. microwave a
big glass of new distilled H2O till it is hot. pour in one third the
amount of water (compared to the colemans) and shake well. drain
the water out. repeat this 4 times. you are washing the NP Solvent.
now once again, add one third the amount of water to the sep. funnel
and drop in a few drops of Hcl. (Muriatic Acid
Shake for a few minutes. then test the ph of the ph of the water layer.
you want it to test at 7.2 or at least close to that. if it doesnt, add a
few more drops of Hcl and shake the hell out of it again and test
again. after it is the proper ph, drain the water layer into your
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visionware bowl and put it on the burner and boil down. you can
finish with a hairdryer if you want. now go back to your colemans
fuel in the seperatory funnel and add a little more distilled water. we
are going to do a second pull on the non-polar solvent. add a few
more drops of Hcl and shake it up again. test the ph again. looking
for 7.2 again. once you reach 7.2 again drain your meth/water into
your clean visionware bowl (you should have already scraped out
the crystals from the last pull that you all ready evaporated. now
evaporate again. remember that if your not in a hurry, evaporating it
with a hair dryer will increase yeilds. Some chefs even do a third
pull. Thats it. you now have clean and pure crystal meth.
RXN METHAMPHETAMINE #4
List of chemicals and materials:
* Diluted HCl - also called Muriatic acid - can be obtained from

hardware stores, in the pool section
* NaOH - also called lye
* Ethyl Ether - aka Diethyl Ether - Et-0-Et - can be obtained from
engine starting fluid, usually from a large supermarket. Look for one
that says "high ethyl ether content", such as Prestone Ephedrine
The cottons in todays vicks nasle inhalers dont contain efed or pfed
(ephedrin or psuedoephedrin) but there are still lots of easy ways to
get good ephed or pfed, pure ephedrin can be extracted out of it's
plant matter, from a plant that can be bought at most garden stores.
Or you can get pfed from decongestive pills like sudafed. Most
people perfer to work with pfed from pills rather then ephed from the
plant. The important thing is that you must have pure pfed/ephed as
any contaminants will fuck up the molar ratio leaving you with
over-reduced shit or under-reduced shit. Or contaminats will jell
durring baseifying and gak up your product which will then be very
hard to clean. So you want to find a pill that is nearly pure pfed hcl,
or as close to pure as you can get. Also check the lable on your pills
and see what inactive ingredients they contain. Inactive ingredients
are things like binders and flavors. These you dont want and will
remove when cleaning your pills. but certain inactive ingredients are
harder to remove then others. You dont want pills with a red coating,
you dont want pills with alot of cellose in them and you dont want
pills with much wax. you also dont want pills that contain povidone.
As a rule, if you have a two pills that contain the same amount of
pfed hcl then take the smaller sized pill because it obviously has
less binders and inactive ingredients, time released pills are usualy
harder to work with because they have more binders and tend to gel
up durring the a/b stage. Also only buy pills that have pfed hcl as the
only active ingredient. You first have to make ephedrine (which is
sometimes sold as meth by itself):If you are selling it...I would just
make ephedrine and say it's meth.
* Distilled water - it's really cheap, so you have no reason to use the
nasty stuff from the tap. Do things right.
List of equipment:
* A glass eyedropper
* Three small glass bottles with lids (approx. 3 oz., but not
important)one should be marked at 1.5oz, use tape on the outside to
mark it (you might want to label it as ether). One should be clear (and
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it can't be the marked one).

* A Pyrex dish (the meatloaf one is suggested)
* A glass quart jar
* Sharp scissors
* Clean rubber gloves
* Coffee filters
* A measuring cup
* Measuring spoons
Preparing Ethyl Ether:
WARNING: Ethyl Ether is very flammable and is heavier than air. Do

not use ethyl ether near flame or non-sparkless motors. It is also an
anaesthetic and can cause respiratory collapse if you inhale too
much.
Take the unmarked small bottle and spray starter fluid in it until it
looks half-full. Then fill the rest of the way with water, cap the bottle
and shake for 5 minutes. Let it sit for a minute or two, and tap the
side to try and separate the clear upper layer. Then, draw off the top
(ether) layer with the eyedropper, and throw away the lower (water)
and cloudy layer. Place the ether in the marked container. Repeat
this until you have about 1.5 oz. of ether. Put the cap on it, and put it
in the freezer if you can. Rinse the other bottle and let it stand.
Ethyl ether is very pungent. Even a small evaporated amount is quite

noticeable.
Ephedrine & or P-Ephedrine:
1. Pour 1/8 teaspoon of the lye crystals into the bottle of ephedrine
and agitate. Do this carefully, as the mixture will become hot, and
give off hydrogen gas and/or steam. H2 gas is explosive and lighter
than air, avoid any flames as usual. Repeat this step until the mixture
remains cloudy. This step neutralizes the HCl in the salt, leaving the
insoluble free base (l-desoxyephedrine) again. Why do we do this?
So that we can get rid of any water-soluble impurities. For 3 oz.
bottles, this should take only 3 repetitions or so.
2. Fill the bottle from step 5 up the rest of the way with ethyl ether.
Cap the bottle, and agitate for about 8 minutes. It is very important to
expose every molecule of the free-base to the ether for as long as
possible. This will cause the free base to dissolve into the ether (it
-is- soluble in ether).
3. Let the mixture settle. There will be a middle layer that is very
thick. Tap the side of the bottle to get this layer as thin as possible.
This is why this bottle should be clear.
4. Remove the top (ether) layer with the eyedropper, being careful
not to get any of the middle layer in it. Place the removed ether layer
into a third bottle.
5. Add to the third bottle enough water to fill it half-way and about 5
drops of muriatic acid. Cap it. Shake the bottle for 2 minutes. When it
settles, remove the top layer and throw it away. The free base has
now been bonded to the HCl again, forming a water soluble salt. This
time, we're getting rid of ether-soluble impurities. Make sure to get
rid of all the ether before going to step 11!
6. If there is anything left from step 3, repeat the procedure with it.
7. Evaporate the solution in the Pyrex dish on low heat. You can do
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this on the stove or nuke it in the microwave (be careful of

splashing), but I have found that if you leave it on top of a hot-water
heater (like the one that supplies hot water to your house) for about
2-3 days, the remaining crystals will be ephedrine HCl.
If you microwave it, I suggest no more than 5-10s at one time. If it

starts "popping", that means you have too little liquid left to
microwave. You can put it under a bright (100W) lamp instead.
Microwaving can result in uneven heating, anyway.
First Batch: 120mg ephedrine HClEstimated: 300mg (100% of

theoretical, disregarding HCl)
Now, Making Methamphetamine out of ephedrine by reducing it with

Hydroiodic Acid and Red Phosphorus.
Items needed:
* Alot of matchbooks (the kind with the striking pad)

* Coffee filters (or filter paper)
* Something that measures ml and grams
* A flask (a small pot with a lid can be used)
* iodine
* Hydroiodic Acid (I will tell you how to make this)
* Red Phosphorus (I will tell you how to make this)
* Lye
*Optional (toluene and HCI gas)
Making Red Phosphorus:
The striking pad on books of matches is about 50% red phosphorus.

The determined experimenter could obtain a pile of red phosphorus
by scraping off the striking pads of matchbooks with a sharp knife. A
typical composition of the striking pad is about 50% red
phosphorus, along with about 30% antimony sulfide, and lesser
amounts of glue, iron oxide, MnO2, and glass powder. I don't think
these contaminants will seriously interfere with the reaction.
Naturally, it is a tedious process to get large amounts of red
phosphorus by scraping the striking pads off matchbooks, but who
cares?
Making Hydroiodic Acid:
This is made by mixing iodine and red phosphorus. When making

hydroiodic acid from iodine and red phosphorus, the acid is
prepared first, and allowed to come to complete reaction for 20
minutes before adding the ephedrine to it. The way around the
roadblock here is to just boil off some more of the water from the
ephedrine extract, and make the acid mixture in fresh pure water.
Since the production of HI from iodine and red phosphorus gives off
a good deal of heat, it is wise to chill the mixture in ice, and slowly
add the iodine crystals to the red phosphorus-water mixture.
Now, Making Methamphetamine:
To do the reaction, a 1000 ml round bottom flask is filled with 150
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grams of ephedrine. Also added to the flask are 40 grams of red

phosphorus and 340 ml of 47% hydroiodic acid. This same acid and
red phosphorus mixture can be prepared from adding 150 grams of
iodine crystals to 150 grams of red phosphorus in 300 ml of water.
This should produce the strong hydroiodic acid solution needed.
Exactly how strong the acid needs to be, I can't say . With the
ingredients mixed together in the flask, a condenser is attached to
the flask, and the mixture is boiled for one day. This length of time is
needed for best yields and highest octane numbers on the product.
While it is cooking, the mixture is quite red and messy looking from
the red phosphorus floating around in it.When one day of boiling
under reflux is up, the flask is allowed to cool, then it is diluted with
an equal volume of water. Next, the red phosphorus is filtered out. A
series of doubled up coffee filters will work to get out all the red
phosphorus, but real filter paper is better. The filtered solution
should look a golden color. A red color may indicate that all the red
phosphorus is not yet out. If so, it is filtered again. The filtered-out
phosphorus can be saved for use in the next batch. If filtering does
not remove the red color, there may be iodine floating around the
solution. It can be removed by adding a few dashes of sodium
bisulfate or sodium thiosulfate.The next step in processing the batch
is to neutralize the acid. A strong lye solution is mixed up and added
to the batch while shaking until the batch is strongly basic. This
brings the meth out as liquid free base floating on top of the water.
The strongly basic solution is shaken vigorously to ensure that all
the meth has been converted to the free base. You now can sell or
use the free base for injection use or with free base meth now
obtained, the next step you can do is to form the crystalline
hydrochloride salt of meth. To do this, a few hundred mls of toluene
is added to the batch, and the meth free base extracted out as usual.
If the chemist's cooking has been careful, the color of the toluene
extract will be clear to pale yellow. If this is the case, the product is
sufficiently pure to make nice white crystals just by bubbling dry HCl
gas through the toluene extract. If the toluene extract is darker
colored, a distillation is called for to get pure meth free base. The
yield of pure methamphetamine hydrochloride should be from 100 to
110 grams
Getting Red Phosphorus From Matchbooks
Obtaining Red Phosphorus
Materials:
* 5 Gallon Bucket Drill (1/2" chuck)

* Mud/Paint/Concrete Mixer
* Coffee Filters
* Strainer (big enough to fit over pot and bucket opening)
* 2 gallon Cooking Pot
* Tin Snips or Scissors
* 200 Matchbook Boxes
* 2 Gallons Acetone
* Sulfuric Acid
* Hydrochloric Acid
* Water
* Iodine
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Extracting Red Phosphorus from Matchbooks:
1. Rip off matchbook covers. Line up as many matchbook covers as

you can cut through with tin snips or good, sharp scissors. Cut out
and save all the striking strips.
2. Drill 3/4" hole in the lid of the 5 gallon bucket. Put the mud mixer
through 3/4" hole in lid and into the drill.
3. Dump the 200 matchbook boxes worth of striking strips (10,000
striking strips) into the 5-gallon bucket. Pour 1.5 gallons of acetone
into the bucket. Cover bucket by inserting mud mixer then snapping
on the lid.
4. Mix contents for about 5 minutes. Check to see if strips are mostly
white on account of the phosphorous/glue being washed off. If not
then continue mixing.
5. Take off the lid and pull out mixer. Put the strainer on the cooking
pot and pour all the acetone in. Pull out all strips from strainer and
bucket and place on clean table or in a bowl. The strips will be
covered in residual red phosphorus, so rinse them by placing the
strainer on bucket and throwing a handful of strips in it. Then slowly
pour some of the acetone in the cooking pot, through the strainer
until strips are clean. Empty strainer into garbage. Continue until all
strips are rinsed.
6. Pour all the acetone/RP into the cooking pot. Let the RP settle for
about 15 minutes. Slowly pour off the acetone. Keep pouring as long
as the acetone is pretty clear. The last bit of acetone will be reddish
colored. Filter this through a coffee filter in the strainer. Scrape the
mushy RP back into the pot or dry the filters, roll and ball them up
well, then unfold. All the RP will fall right out in a dust.
Cleaning Matchbook Red Phosphorus:
Sulfuric/hydrochloric acid wash: (This can be done as 2 different

washes) With mushy RP in cooking pot, pour enough 1:1
water/sulfuric to cover the glob. (It's optional now to add heat or not.
If so then add no more than enough for a light boil) Mix contents for
5 to 10 minutes. Add an equal amount of hydrochloric acid and
continue mixing for 5 to 10 minutes. If heat was applied take off now.
Add an equal amount of cold water. Filter through a coffee filter in
the strainer. Scrape the chunky RP off the filters back into the
cooking pot. (This will eat up a lot of small paper fibers, hair, cotton,
lint or whatever.)
Acetone wash: Add enough acetone to cover the globs and chunks
of RP. (Again you can add heat if you like. Bring it to a controlled
boil.) Mix for 5 to 10 minutes. Let cool or add a little cold water. Filter
RP same way and return it to pot. (This will remove any glue or other
acetone solvent junk.)
Water wash: Add enough distilled water to cover the RP globs. Bring
this to a boil for 5 to 10 minutes. Filter out the RP and leave in filters
to dry out. When dry roll and ball up filters then brush out dust.
Collect dust in a baggie and store. (This is a general cleaning to
remove any chemical residue.)
Other washes: Any of the following solvents have been safely used
to wash RP... Methanol, Ethanol, Denatured alcohol, Isopropanol,
Toluene, Xylene. These would be done the same as written above.
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Screening: Put the RP in a stainless steel screen or plastic/steel

mesh style coffee filter and run acetone through it. The RP is washed
through the screen with the acetone, and any particles larger than
the screen apertures are filtered out.
Washing order: The order does not matter as long as the RP is

finished off with an acetone wash then a distilled water wash.
Prefiring Red Phosphorus
React RP/I2: Weigh out your RP and put it into a bottle. Add half as
much I2 to it and shake it up. Add (dropwise) H2O2 when not
reacting. Continue shaking and adding drops of H2O2 until it's done
reacting.
Filter out RP: After prefiring add water and shake. If it won't loosen
up then put the bottle in boiling water for 5 minutes. Filter the
water/RP/I mix. Wash the RP with acetone then water. Dry it out,
baggie and save for a rainy day.
Note: Make sure drill has a 1/2" chuck. This was compiled from many
sources and through trial and error was refined to what you see. It
was written to be printed up, and used as a reference for anyone like
swim that hasn't been able to get lab grade RP. Swim's current run
was scaled down using a 2-gallon bucket with 114 boxes! It took
over 3/4 gallon of acetone to extract the RP. Clean up will be
H2SO4/HCl, acetone, H2O, prefire, acetone, H2O, done!
Expecting to yield about 250mg per box. They're hoping to end up

with an even ounce.
METHCATHINONE
Methcathinone is probably the simplest illegal drug that you can

produce. The following recipes are so simple, that you might already
have everything you need to make your own Methcathinone.
Methcathinone is related to Methamphetamine. It is a speedy party

type of drug, most commonly snorted or smoked. It will not keep you
awake for days on end though. Mainly this drug is loved for the
euphoria that it produces.
Methcathinone Manufacture #1
Chemicals:
* KMnO4 [Potassium Permanganate] - This is sold at 'Sears' in a blue

bottle. (Catalog #4234415) It's used to remove iron from water filters.
* Pseudoephedrine HCl - Get a box of 96 'Equate' Tablets from
Wal-Mart, or Sudafed's will work.
* Isopropyl Alcohol [Isopropyl 70% Rubbing Alcohol] - Any grocery
store or pharmacy
* Hydrochloric Acid [HCl] - Sold as "Muriatic Acid"
* Acetone - Sold at any hardware store or paint store
* Distilled Water - Sold at any grocery store
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Lab Stuff:
* Strainer - The smaller the holes the better

* Plastic Funnel - Check your local grocery store
* Coffee Filters - Use "Maxwell House"
* 3 Mason Jars, Snapple Bottles, whatever works
* Large Jug - Like a glass fruit juice jug
* Measuring Cup - Marked in ML (Milliliters)
* Syringe - The kind they use to feed babies by mouth, marked in
ML's
* Pyrex Dish - PYREX only!
* Access to a refrigerator
* Access to a microwave
Ephedrine Extraction:
Take all 96 pills, and put them in the strainer. Add some crushed ice,
you want more like ice shavings other than big chunks of ice. Simply
shake the strainer back and fourth, as the ice melts, you will notice
the red coating on the pills coming off. You may want to quickly
rinse the pills once or twice. When you notice most of the red
coating is gone (the pills will be a light pink in color), it's time to take
the pills and put them in one of the Snapple bottles. You must now
add 150ml of distilled water. Now place the jar in the microwave
(leave the cap off), and heat until the water is hot, not boiling but hot.
Shake the bottle (with the cap on) until all the pills break apart, then
let it settle. Using the plastic funnel and coffee filters, you now want
to filter the water into another Snapple bottle, cap this bottle and set
it aside. You will want to scrape all the mushy ephedrine powder
from the coffee filter back into the first bottle, add 150ml of distilled
water, and heat again. Filter adding the water to the second Snapple
bottle (that all ready has the 150mLs from your first filtration). Again
you will repeat this process (another 150mL of water).
You should now have 450mL of water in one bottle and some gritty
ephedrine in the other. Cap the bottle with the water and put it in the
refrigerator. Wash the other bottle out and set it aside. The bottle
with the water contains the ephedrine water.
You must now prepare your KMnO4 (Potassium Permanganate)

solution. Measure out the 7.43 grams of Potassium Permanganate,
and put it in the clean, empty Snapple bottle. Now, add 100mL of
distilled water, cap the bottle, and shake it real hard for a few
minutes. Using the syringe, measure out 15.5mL of this solution, and
add it to 250mL of distilled water in the 3rd Snapple bottle. Cap,
shake, and put it in the refrigerator. 15.5mL is about one tablespoon
(15mL), so if you do not have a syringe, then you can just use a
tablespoon measurement.
You MUST allow both of these liquids to cool. If they are not cold
then your reaction will fail. So leave them in the refrigerator for a
good 4-6 hours. I can not stress this enough; the solutions must be
cold. If you are an impatient person, then put them in your freezer
until they get a bit of ice on top.
Now it's time for the actual reaction. You simply mix the 265.5mL
KMnO4 (potassium permanganate) Solution, with the 450mL
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ephedrine extract in a jug. Just cap it, shake, and set it in the
refrigerator for at least 8, but no more then 12 hours.
After about 8 hours, check the mixture to see if there is any purple
color, if there is then let it set for another hour or so. Once you see
there is no more purple color, remove the solution from the
refrigerator. It should smell sweet, kind of like pistachio ice cream.
You must now add 100mL of Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol. This is

done so that the remaining potassium permanganate will have
something else to oxidize (instead of the ephedrine). Just let this
mixture sit out for about 2 to 3 hours in room temperature.
Your mixture should now be at about room temperature; it's time to

filter. Set up the funnel over one of the Snapple bottles used earlier
(wash the Snapple bottle first). Put about two or three coffee filters in
the funnel, and slowly pour the solution through them (slowly so all
those particles in the bottom don't pour out and clog your filter). You
will probably need to filter three or four times. You want your liquid
to be as clear as possible.
You need to adjust the pH to about 5 to 6.5. To do this, use a little

muriatic acid. Only add a few drops, not much is needed. Once you
have the correct pH, swirl your final mixture and let it set for a while.
Now, filter it through about five coffee filters. This is your last chance
to get any junk out of it. Your liquid should be almost totally clear.
What you have is methcathinone. If you desire to do so, you can
drink the solution. Most people would prefer to have a crystalline
powder however. So on to the next step.
Pour all your liquid into the Pyrex dish, and set in on the stove for
about 3 hours at low heat, you want to evaporate most of the liquid.
Once you notice you have a mostly gummy substance left, remove
the dish from the stove. Now you can either use a blow drier, or
simply leave the dish out for about a day. You should notice crystals
in the dish the crystals are going to be gummy, so you simply add
some Acetone. The methcathinone is not soluble in Acetone, the
other gummy substance is. After adding the acetone, swirl it around
a bit. As the gummy substance dissolves, pour it off. You should
notice some brownish to white crystals, this is your methcathinone!
You may have to do this again, just let the crystals dry and add more
acetone. Once all of the crystals are dry, scrape the crystals out of
the dish into something.
You should have about 3 grams of Methcathinone HCl, a Schedule 1

drug, so don't get caught. Methcathinone can sell anywhere from
$40-$75 a gram. It is best that you do not shoot methcathinone
The great part about this recipe for Methcathinone is that most of the
chemicals you need will last you a long time. For the first potassium
permanganate solution, you will still have about 85mL of the first
solution left. This can last quite a while. The muriatic acid will last
you a lifetime, because you only need a small amount for each cook.
One bottle of Isopropyl Alcohol should last you a while, though if
you are planning on making a lot then you should have about 3
bottles of it. The acetone will last quite a while, because only a small
amount is used to clean each batch. The only thing you would have
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to keep buying for each batch is the Sudafed tablets.
Methcathinone Manufacture #2
Preparing the ephedrine/pseudoephedrine solution:
Method A:
Add enough water to completely dissolve pure ephedrine or

pseudoephedrine.
Method B:
Wash sudaphed tablets in cold water until most (it's impossible to

get all of it) of the red coating is gone. Put the tablets in hot water,
heat them to boiling, and stir until the tablets have completely
dissolved. Filter off the liquid. The amount of water the
(pseudo-)ephedrine [I'll call it ephedrine from now on for simplicity]
is dissolved in is not too important - it should be as little as possible,
but at least as much as the amount of sulfuric acid that is added
later (to insure to that the potassium dichromate dissolves). To this
aqueous mixture add 0.62 grams of potassium dichromate for every
gram of ephedrine in the solution. If you used sudaphed tablets,
figure by the theoretical amount in solution (number of tablets X
content of each tablet). Slowly add 3ml Sulfuric for each gram
ephedrine, stirring as you add it.
Let react for 30-60 minutes. The color should go from a bright
red/orange to a dark color (a mixture of green and orange from the
two ionization states of the chromium). Basify the solution with
concentrated sodium hydroxide solution until you see the solution
become a bright green (green with a white precipitate - the
methcathinone). This happens above pH 8. Try not to add too much
hydroxide (if you do the solution becomes black and there is
probably some decomposition of the methcathinone).
Extract 3-4 times with naptha (add the naptha, shake it up, pour off
as much naptha as you can - but DON'T get ANY reaction mixture in
the extracts!). Use as much naptha as would equal about 50-100
percent of the reaction mixture.
Quickly add the extracts to 25ml of hydrochloric acid, diluted
1 part 36% HCl to 4-5 parts water. Shake the mixture, extract off the
aqueous (lower) portion. This is an acid solution of the
methcathinone. [you may want to extract a second time with HCl to
get a slightly higher yield, a 3rd time adds nothing.] Evaporate the
mixture under low to medium heat (preferably under a vacuum) until
it becomes thick. Add acetone and stir it a little. if the mixture
doesn't become white (crystalline) right away, it hasn't been
evaporated enough. Continue evaporating and adding acetone until
it does. Be careful not to burn the thick mixture (adding acetone
helps keep the temperature down). After getting crystals/precipitate,
cover the mixture tightly and put in a freezer for 15 minutes. Remove
from the freezer, filter the crystals off and wash with a small amount
of cold acetone. [If the crystals are less than white, you may want to
purify them by boiling and stirring them in acetone again, cooling
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the mixture and refiltering as described above.] The white

crystals/powder is methcathinone HCL. I wouldn't take more than
20mg for a first dose, and I wouldn't take it if
NOTES:
This synthesis is very forgiving. Substitutions of potassium

hydroxide for sodium hydroxide, sodium dichromate for potassium
dichromate and similar subsitution will not have an impact. I
wouldn't substitute anything for the sulfuric acid, however. HCl is
used to make the drug salt because it is so easy to evaporate the
excess off. Any method of making drug salts you are familiar with
should be satisfactory. Ether works a little better than naptha, but it's
more dangerous. I stay away from it.
GHB
GHB is "The Date Rape Drug." It has been known for it's very
powerfull sexual effects. I don't know much about GHB, so I don't
have much to say about it. All I can say is that some people love this
drug, and totally live by it. Other's like to slip it into girl's drinks at
bars. Please use this drug properly, and not to rape some girl.
GHB Manufacture #1
You will need:
* Clean dry beakers and graduated cylinders

* A set of chemical scales
* Narrow range pH strips for 5.5-8.0
* A hot plate
* Two sealed tupperware containers
* A blender (if you intend to make powder)
* A pyrex baking dish.
1. Accurately measure out gamma-butyrolactone (GBL) in the

volume of milliliters (mls) you want to react.
Example: You want to react 200 mls of GBL.
2. Multiply this number by the average density of GBL (1.124
gms/ml).
Example: (200 mls GBL) * (1.124 gms/ml) = 224.8 gms GBL
3. Divide this number by the average molecular weight of GBL (86.06
gms/mol).
Example: (224.8 gms GBL) / (86.06 gms/mol) = 2.612 mols of GBL
4. Multiply this number by the average molecular weight of NaOH
(40.0 gms/mol)
Example: (2.612 mols) * (40.0) = 104.5 gms NaOH
5. Weigh out this much NaOH using a set of chemical scales.
6. Heat the GBL + 5% distilled water (by volume) to 100 degrees C
Example: 200 mls GBL + 20 mls distilled water heated to 100C
7. Completely dissolve the NaOH in distilled water at the rate of
about 40 grams per 100 mls of water.
Example: (104.5 gms NaOH) / (40) = 2.6125 * 100 mlw H2O = 260 mls
water
8. SLOWLY drip (DO NOT POUR) 90% of the NaOH into the heated
GBL and make sure that the reaction is occurring (the solution will
begin boiling vigorously). If the reaction is not occuring, then you
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either have not heated the GBL to 100C or you have defective
reactants (throw them out and get fresh stuff). Once the solution
begins boiling, you can turn the heat off - the reaction will make its
own heat.
9. Begin measuring the pH of the reaction solution with narrow range
pH paper (5.0 - 8.0 paper). When the range begins to get to 7.5 to 8.0,
stop dripping the NaOH solution. This mixture will still have
unreacted lactone in it - so now it is time to do some steam
distillation.
10. Steam Distillation (The purification step) - Put a thermometer in
the solution capable of measuring 200C and crank the heat up on the
solution. You may want to add a boiling stone made from a clean
piece of pea gravel to the solution (don't use a boiling stick because
you will burn it up, and don't use a chemical boiling stone because
they contain metals that are not supposed to go into humans).
11. When the solution gets up to 150-155C, cut the heat back enough
to hold the temperature steady at 150-155C. Hold it at that
temperature until all bubbling stops. The beaker now contains
melted NaGHB.
12. Liquid or Powder?
* To make a liquid, add enough boiling water to make the dilution you
want.
Example: You want 1 gram NaGHB per 5 ml of solution. 200 mls of
GBL will make 329 grams NaGHB. 329 * 5 ml = 1645 mls of solution.
So add enough boiling water to bring the entire solution up to 1650
mls.
* To make powder, pour out thin strips of the NaGHB melt into the
pyrex casserole dish. Return the melt to the low heat to keep it
melted. Let the strips cool - they will begin to curl up if the strips are
about 1/2" to 1" in width. Scrape them up with a metal spatula and
put them into a sealed tupperware container. Pour out more strips
and repeat the procedure until you have used up all of the melt.
13. Let the strips in the tupperware container cool down and shake
them around a bit (while holding the lid tighly on). This will break up
the strips.
14. Put the boken up NaGHB pieces into a blender (no more than 1/3
full) at high speed. You may have to shake the blender around a bit
to make sure everything is ground into powder. Pour the powder into
a sealed tupperware container.
15. You are done. Enjoy, and please don't do G and drive.
GHB Manufacture #2
A Method for Making Powdered GHB (Gamma Hydroxybutyrate)
Never mix GHB with other substances - especially alcohol or other

CNS depressants (like sleeping pills).
Safety: Wear gloves and safety glasses at all times. If any of the
reagents or intermediates contacts the skin, wash well with cold
water.
For step 3, use electric oven only. In a gas oven, the pilot light may
ignite alcohol fumes, causing fire hazard.
Ingredients:
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* 60 grams of NaOH
* 120 ml of gamma butyrolactone
* 1000 ml of pure ethanol
These quantities are not fixed - use more or less as needed, but keep
the proportions the same. The NaOH can be dissolved in less
ethanol, but these proportions make the process easier and faster.
The ethanol must be pure (no water in it) - don't use vodka. GHB will
not crystalize if there is water in the solution. Denatured ethanol can
also be used, but be sure to let it completely evaporate before
ingesting it. Methanol can also be used, but this is toxic, and excess
must be removed before ingestion. If methanol is used, only 500ml is
required, but be sure all the methanol is evaporated before ingesting
it (check there is no methanol odor left).
Obtaining the ingredients:
NaOH, denatured ethanol and methanol are very easy to find. Just
look up chemical products in the yellow pages. Those chemicals are
so common that you won't be asked what you are going to do with it.
Gamma-butyrolactone is difficult to find.
Equipment needed:
* Screw cap bottle larger than 1000ml; if you choose plastic use
HDPE, (it will be clearly marked on the bottom)
* Glass container at least 1200 ml. in volume.
* Coffee filter papers (2)
Method:
1. Dissolve the NaOH in the ethanol - place the ethanol in the screw
cap bottle and add the NaOH. Shake and allow to stand until cool.
Continue until all the NaOH has dissolved. Be sure to release the cap
frequently to release pressure.
2. When all the NaOH has dissolved (this can take an hour of shaking
and waiting) pour it into the glass pot and add the gamma-
butyrolactone. A precipitate (this is the GHB) will form. Allow to
stand for an hour.
3. After allowing it to stand, filter the product through the 2 coffee
filters (placed inside each other), collecting the precipitate. Dry the
precipitate by placing it in an oven on the lowest setting for 24
hours. Use electric oven only! In a gas oven, the pilot light may
ignite alcohol fumes, causing fire hazard.
4. You can keep it in the powdered form (keep it in an airtight bag
since it is hygroscopic and will absorb water from the atmosphere).
Alternatively dissolve it in 750 ml of water; this will give a solution
containing about 1g of GHB per teaspoon. Don't ingest the neat
solution in case there is unreacted NaOH which can burn the skin -
mix it in 1/2 cup of water of fruit juice.
MDMA (ECSTASY)
MDMA is an Amphetamine drug that releases lots of Dopamine and

Seritonin in the brain. This is why MDMA makes your head tingle,
this is also why it causes brain damage. Ecstasy is addictive, and
21 of 64
can cause depression after long term use.
Ecstasy is a big Party Drug. It is sold mainly at every Rave that there
is.
MDMA Manufacture #1
Method 1
To a well stirred, cooled mixture of 34g of 30% H202 (hydrogen

peroxide) in 150g 80% HCO2H (formic acid) there was added,
dropwise, a solution of 32.4g isosafrole in 120ml acetone at a rate
that kept the reaction mixture from exceeding 40 deg C. This
required a bit over 1 hour, and external cooling was used as
necessary. Stirring was continued for 16 hours, and care was taken
that the slow exothermic reaction did not cause excess heating. An
external bath with running water worked well. During this time the
solution progressed from an orange color to a deep red. All volatile
components were removed under vacuum which yielded some 60g
of a very deep residue. This was dissolved in 60ml of MeOH (methyl
alcohol -- methanol), treated with 360ml of 15% H2SO4 (sulfuric
acid), and heated for 3 hours on the steam bath. After cooling the
mixture was extracted with 3x75ml Et2O (diethyl ether) or C6H6
(benzene). Its recommended that, the pooled extracts can washed --
first with H2O and then with dilute NaOH (sodium hydroxide). Then
the solvent is removed under vacuum to afford 20.6g
3,4-methylenedioxyphenylacetone (3,4-methylenedioxybenzyl methyl
ketone). The final residue may be distilled at 2.0mm/108-112 deg C,
or at about 160 deg C at the water pump.
Add 23g 3,4-methylenedioxyphenylacetone to 65g HCONH2

(formamide) and heat at 190 deg for five hours. Cool, add 100ml H20,
extract with C6H6 (benzene) and evaporate in vacuum the extract.
Add 8ml MeOH (methyl alcohol -- methanol) and 75ml 15% HCl to
residue, heat on water bath two hours and extract in vacuum (or
basify with KOH and extract the oil with benzene and dry, evaporate
in vacuum) to get 11.7 g 3,4-methylenedioxyamphetamine (MDA). To
produce MDMA substitute N-methylformamide for formamide in the
above synthesis.
Method 2
This is a less yealding method usually producing only MDA. It is a

two step procedure first reacting safrole with hydrobromic acid to
give 3,4-methylenedi- oxyphenyl-2-bromopropane, and then taking
this material and reacting it with either ammonia or methylamine to
yield MDA or MDMA respectively. This procedure has the advantages
of not being at all sensitive to batch size, nor is it likely to "run
away" and produce a tarry mess. It shares with the Ritter reaction
the advantage of using cheap, simple, and easily available
chemicals.
The sole disadvantage of this method is the need to do the final

reaction with ammonia or methylamine inside a sealed pipe. This is
because the reaction must be done in the temperature range of 120-
140 C, and the only way to reach this temperature is to seal the
reactants up inside of a bomb. This is not particularly dangerous,
22 of 64
and is quite safe if some simple precautions are taken.
The first stage of the conversion, the reaction with hydrobromic

acid, is quite simple, and produces almost a 100% yield of the bromi-
nated product. See the Journal of Biological Chemistry, Volume 108
page 619. The author is H.E. Carter. Also see Chemical Abstracts
1961, column 14350. The following reaction takes place:
To do the reaction, 200 ml of glacial acetic acid is poured into a

champagne bottle nestled in ice. Once the acetic acid has cooled
down, 300 grams (200 ml) of 48% hydrobromic acid is slowly added
with swirling. Once this mixture has cooled down, 100 grarns of
safrole is slowly added with swirling. Once the safrole is added, the
cheap plastic stopper of the champagne bottle is wired back into
place, and the mixture is slowly allowed to come to room
temperature with occasional shaking. After about 12 hours the
original two layers will merge into a clear red solution. In 24 hours,
the reaction is done. The chemist carefully removes the stopper from
the bottle, wearing eye protection. Some acid mist may escape from
around the stopper.
The reaction mixture is now poured onto about 500 grams of

crushed ice in a 1000 or 2000 ml beaker. Once the ice has melted, the
red layer of product is separated, and the water is extracted with
about l00 ml of petroleum ether or regular ethyl ether. The ether
extract is added to the product, and the combined product is washed
first with water, and then with a solution of sodium carbonate in
water. The purpose of these washings is to remove HBr from the
product. One can be sure that all the acid is removed from the
product when some fresh carbonate solution does not fizz in contact
with the product.
Once all the acid in the product is removed, the ether must be
removed from it. This is important because if the ether were allowed
to remain in it, too much pressure would be generated in the next
stage inside of the bomb. Also, it would interfere with the formation
of a solution between the product and methylamine or ammonia. It is
not necessary to distill the product because with a yield of over 90%,
the crude product is pure enough to feed into the next stage. To
remove the ether from the product, the crude product is poured into
a flask, and a vacuum is applied to it. This causes the ether to boil
off. Some gentle heating with hot water is quite helpful to this
process. The yield of crude product is in the neighborhood of 200
grams.
With the bromo compound in hand, it is time to move onto the next
step which gives MDA or MDMA. The bromo compound reacts with
ammonia or methylamine to give MDA or MDMA.
To do the reaction, 50 grams of the bromo compound is poured into

a beaker, and 200 ml of concentrated ammonium hydroxide (28%
NH3) or 40% methylamine is added. Next, isopropyl alcohol is added
with stirring until a nice smooth solution is formed. It is not good to
add too much alcohol because a more dilute solution reacts slower.
Now the mixture is poured into a pipe "bomb." This pipe should be
made of stainless steel, and have fine threads on both ends.
Stainless steel is preferred because the HBr given off in the reaction
23 of 64
will rust regular steel. Both ends of the pipe are securely tightened
down. The bottom may even be welded into place. Then the pipe is
placed into cooking oil heated to around 130 C. This temperature is
maintained for about 3 hours or so, then it is allowed to cool. Once
the pipe is merely warm, it is cooled down some more in ice, and the
cap unscrewed.
The reaction mixture is poured into a distilling flask, the glassware
rigged for simple distillation, and the isopropyl alcohol and excess
ammonia or methylamine is distilled off. When this is done, the
residue inside the flask is made acid with hydrochloric acid. If
indicating pH paper is available, a pH of about 3 should be aimed for.
This converts the MDA to the hydrochloride which is water soluble.
Good strong shaking of the mixture ensures that this conversion is
complete. The first stage of the purification is to recover unreacted
bromo compound. To do this, 200 to 300 ml of ether is added. After
some shaking, the ether layer is separated. It contains close to 20
grams of bromo compound which may be used again in later
batches.
Now the acid solution containing the MDA is made strongly basic
with lye solution. The mixture is shaken for a few minutes to ensure
that the MDA is converted to the free base. Upon sitting for a few
minutes, the MDA floats on top of the water as a dark colored oily
layer. This layer is separated and placed into a distilling flask. Next,
the water layer is extracted with some toluene to get out the
remaining MDA free base. The toluene is combined with the free
base layer, and the toluene is distilled off. Then a vacuum is applied,
and the mixture is fractionally distilled. A good aspirator with cold
water will bring the MDA off at a temperature of 150 to 160 C. The
free base should be clear to pale yellow, and give a yield of about 20
ml. This free base is made into the crystalline hydrochloride by
dissolving it in ether and bubbling dry HCl gas through it.
(PHENCYCLIDINE) PCP
PCP can be considered a very evil drug. Since alot of it's effects are
mainly associated with gangs. The common use that this drug has
with those associated with gangs is the fact that PCP causes you to
be able to resist large amounts of pain without being effected. Also,
PCP gives people lots of "Super Human" Strength. Supposedly
some gangs in California would smoke some PCP before going to
kill someone, or before going to fight with another gang.
So, Here is how to make it..
Phencylidine Manufacture
Phencyclidine and Other l-Phenylcyclohexylamines. Phencyclidine

(PCP or angel dust) and its analogs create many different types of
effects, dependent mainly on the individual user. It was first used to
immobilize primates and is still used as an analgesic and/or
anesthetic agent. It has been used on humans for the same purpose
with limited success.
As stated above, the effects are mainly determined by the user.

Some people experience paranoia, others have fits of rage, and
24 of 64
others have great euphoria. Mood alterations are always

accompanied with time, perception and visual hallucinations. Some
people have tried the drug and do not agree with it, so I do not
approve of the practice of telling people that your PCP is THC or
some other hallucinogen. These drugs are quite potent, so use them
with a great deal of respect (I think that overdoses have CP the bad
reputation that follows it today) as bummers from this drug have
occurred often.
The way that ethylamine, diethylamine, methylamine, piperidine, etc.,

can be used as analogs of one or another reminds me of the
synthesis of LSD or DMTs. The formula is quite easy to carry out and
it gives good yields in large quantities. Note: Given are several
different methods. You may use any way that you feel will suit your
needs and you may substitute any of the amines with an equimolar
amount of amine analog to produce the desired
l-phenylcyclohexylamine. However, the formulas stated give the best
yields obtainable with that particular amine.
These drugs are active orally, intermuscularly, and also by smoking.

They should be kept in a dark, well stoppered bottle, in a freezer as
much as possible. CA, 13881 (1963).
METHOD 1. A mixture of 100 g of anhydrous ethylamine and 220 g of

cyclohexanone is kept 16 hours, shaken with solid KOH, and the oil
layer is removed by decantation. Distill the oil layer in vacuo to get
the intermediate N-cyclohexylidenethylamine. Prepare a mixture of
phenyllithium by mixing 11 g of lithium and 76 ml PhBr in 500 ml of
Et20. Add the phenyllithium dropwise to a solution of 51 g of the
N-cyclohexylidenethylamine in 500 ml of Et20, with stirring and
cooling, to keep the temp at 0?. Stir for one hour and then
decompose by adding water. Separate the Et20 layer, wash with H20
and distill to get 1-phenylcyclohexylethylamine or analog. The
hydrochloride form is obtained in the usual way, as given below.
METHOD 2. A mixture of 170 g of piperidine, 220 g of

cyclohexylamine, and 750 ml of benzene is azeotropically distilled
until the evolution of H20 stops, then vacuum distill to get
cyclohexenyl-piperidine. p-toluenesulfonic acid monohydrate (190 g)
in 250 ml of PhMe is heated under a water trap until all the H20 is
removed, then add a solution of 165 g of cyclohexyl-piperidine in 500
ml of Et20, with cooling, to keep temp at 0?. A solution of I mole of
PhMgBr (made from 157 g of PhBr and 24 g of Mg) in 750 ml of Et20
is added (still holding the temp at 0? to 5?). The mixture is stirred for
an additional 30 min after the dropwise addition is complete.
Decompose the mixture by adding an excess saturated NH4Cl and
NH40H. The Et20 layer is removed, dried over K2CO3, and distilled to
give phenylcyclohexylpiperidine. Convert to the hydrochloride form
by dissolving the free base in an excess of iso-PrOH-HC1 and then
precipitate the salt (the hydrochloride) with Et20 and crystallize from
Et20-iso-PrOH (this is a mixture).
COCAINE
Cocaine is commonly made from the Coca Plant in South America. It

was the most popular drug in the 70's, and the most expensive. In
the 80s there was a way found to turn Cocaine into Crack. That way
25 of 64
it could be distrubuted to the poorer community.
The method for manufacturing Cocaine that I have put here is not
how to make Cocaine from Coca Plants, but how to produce a
"Synthetic" cocaine in a laboratory.
Cocaine Manufacture
Cocaine is not a phenylethyl-amine, but it produces central nervous

system arousal or stimulant effects which closely resemble those of
the amphetamines, the methylenedioxyamphetamines in particular.
This is due to the inhibition by cocaine of re-uptake of the
norepinepherine released by the adrenergic nerve terminals, leading
to an enhanced adrenergic stimulation of norepinephrine receptors.
The increased sense of well being and intense, but short lived,
euphoric state produced by cocaine requires frequent
administration.
Cocaine does not penetrate the intact skin, but is readily absorbed
from the mucus membranes, creating the need to snort it. This
accounts for the ulceration of the nasal septum after cocaine has
been snorted for long periods.
The basic formula for cocaine starts by purchasing or making

tropinone, converting the tropinone into 2-carbomethoxytropinone
(also known as methyl-tropan-3-one-2-carboxylate), reducing this to
ecgonine, and changing that to cocaine. Sounds easy? It really is not
very simple. This synthesis is certainly worth performing with the
high prices that cocaine is now commanding. As usual, I will start
with the precursors and intermediates leading up to the product.
Succindialdehyde. This can be purchased, too. 23.2 g of

succinaldoxime powder in 410 ml of 1 N sulfuric acid and add
dropwise with stirring at 0? a solution of 27.6 g of sodium nitrite in
250 ml of water over 3 hours. After the addition, stir and let the
mixture rise to room temp for about 2 hours, taking care not to let
outside air into the reaction. Stir in 5 g of Ba carbonate and filter.
Extract the filtrate with ether and dry, evaporate in vacuo to get the
succindialdehyde. This was taken from JOC, 22, 1390 (1957). To
make succinaldoxime, see JOC, 21, 644 (1956).
Complete Synthesis of Succindialdehyde. JACS, 68, 1608 (1946). In a

2 liter 3 necked flask equipped with a stirrer, reflux condenser, and
an addition funnel, is mixed 1 liter of ethanol, 67 g of freshly distilled
pyrrole, and 141 g of hydroxylamine hydrochloride. Heat to reflux
until dissolved, add 106 g of anhydrous sodium carbonate in small
portions as fast as reaction will allow. Reflux for 24 hours and filter
the mixture. Evaporate the filtrate to dryness under vacuo. Take up
the residue in the minimum amount of boiling water, decolorize with
carbon, filter and allow to recrystallize in refrigerator. Filter to get
product and concentrate to get additional crop. Yield of
succinaldoxime powder is a little over 40 g, mp is 171-172?.
5.8 g of the above powder is placed in a beaker of 250 ml capacity

and 54 ml of 10% sulfuric acid is added. Cool to 0? and add in small
portions of 7 g of sodium nitrite (if you add the nitrite too fast,
nitrogen dioxide fumes will evolve). After the dioxime is completely
26 of 64
dissolved, allow the solution to warm to 20? and effervescence to go

to completion. Neutralize the yellow solution to litmus by adding
small portions of barium carbonate. Filter off the barium sulfate that
precipitates. The filtrate is 90% pure succindialdehyde and is not
purified further for the reaction to create tropinone. Do this
procedure 3 more times to get the proper amount for the next step,
or multiply the amounts given by four and proceed as described
above.
Take the total amount of succinaldehyde (obtained from 4 of the

above syntheses combined) and without further treatment or
purification (this had better be 15.5 g of succindialdehyde) put into
an Erlenmeyer flask of 4-5 liters capacity. Add 21.6 g of methylamine
hydrochloride, 46.7 g of acetonedicarboxylic acid, and enough water
to make a total volume of 2 liters. Adjust the pH to 8-10 by slowly
adding a saturated solution of disodium phosphate. The condensate
of this reaction (allow to set for about 6 days) is extracted with ether,
the ethereal solution is dried over sodium sulphate and distilled, the
product coming over at 113? at 25 mm of pressure is collected. Upon
cooling, 14 g of tropinone crystallizes in the pure state. Tropinone
can also be obtained by oxidation of tropine with potassium
dichromate, but I could not find the specifics for this operation.
2-Carbomethoxytropinone. A mixture of 1.35 g of sodium methoxide

(this is sodium in a minimum amount of methanol), 3.5 g of
tropinone, 4 ml of dimethylcarbonate and 10 ml of toluene is refluxed
for 30 min. Coo] to 0? and add 15 ml of water that contains 2.5 g of
ammonium chloride. Extract the solution after shaking with four 50
ml portions of chloroform, dry, evaporate the chloroform in vacuo.
Dissolve the oil residue in 100 ml of ether, wash twice with a mixture
of 6 ml of saturated potassium carbonate and three ml of 3 N KOH.
Dry and evaporate in vacuo to recover the unreacted tropinone. Take
up the oil in a solution of aqueous ammonium chloride and extract
with chloroform, dry, and evaporate in vacuo to get an oil. The oil is
dissolved in hot acetone, cool, and scratch inside of flask with glass
rod to precipitate 2- carbomethoxytropinone. Recrystallize 16 g of
this product in 30 ml of hot methyl acetate and add 4 ml of cold
water and 4 ml of acetone. Put in freezer for 2l/2 to 3 hours. Filter and
wash the precipitate with cold methyl acetate to get pure product.
Methylecgonine. 0.4 mole of tropinone is suspended in 80 ml of

ethanol in a Parr hydrogenation flask (or something that can take
100 psi and not react with the reaction, like stainless steel or glass).
10 g of Raney Nickle is added with good agitation (stirring or
shaking) followed by 2- 3 ml of 20% NaOH solution. Seal vessel,
introduce 50 psi of hydrogen atmosphere (after flushing vessel with
hydrogen) and heat to 40-50?. After no more uptake of hydrogen
(pressure gauge will hold steady after dropping to its lowest point)
bleed off pressure and filter the nickle off, rinse out bottle with
chloroform and use this rinse to rinse off the nickle while still on the
filter paper. Make the filtrate basic with KOH after cooling to 10?.
Extract with chloroform dry, and evaporate the chloroform in vacuo
to get an oil. Mix the oil plus any precipitate with an equal volume of
dry ether and filter. Add more dry ether to the filtrate until no more
precipitate forms, filter and add to the rest of the precipitate.
Recrystallize from isopropanol to get pure methylecgonine. Test for
activity. If active, skip down to the step for cocaine. If not active,
27 of 64
proceed as follows. Stir with activated carbon for 30 min, filter,

evaporate in vacuo, dissolve the brown liquid in methanol, and
neutralize with 10% HCI acid in dry ether. Evaporate the ether until
the two layers disappear, and allow to stand for 2 hours at 0? to
precipitate the title product. There are many ways to reduce
2-carbomethoxytropinone to methylecgonine. I chose to design a
Raney Nickle reduction because it is cheap and not as suspicious as
LAH and it is much easier than zinc or sodium amalgams.
Cocaine. 4.15 g of methylecgonine and 5.7 g of benzoic anhydride in

150 ml of dry benzene are gently refluxed for 4 hours taking
precaution against H20 in the air (drying tube). Cool in an ice bath,
acidify carefully with hydrochloric acid, dry, and evaporate in a
vacuum to get a red oil which is treated with a little portion of
isopropanoi to precipitate cocaine.
As you can see, this is quite a chore. The coca leaves give ecgonine,
which as you can see, is only a Jump away from cocaine. If you can
get egconine, then dissolve 8l/2 g of it in 100 ml of ethanol and pass
(bubble) dry HC1 gas through this solution for 30 min. Let cool to
room temp and let stand for another 11/2 hours. Gently reflux for 30
min and evaporate in vacuo. Basify the residue oil with NaOH and
filter to get 8.4 g of methylecgonine, which is converted to cocaine
as in the cocaine step above.
Below is given a somewhat easier method of producing tropinone by

the general methods of Willstatter, who was instrumental in the first
synthetic production of cocaine and several other alkaloids. After
reviewing this method, I found it to be simpler than the above in
many respects.
Tropinone. 10 g of pyrrolidinediethyl diacetate are heated with 10 g

of cymene and 2 g of sodium powder, the reaction taking place at
about 160?. During the reaction (which is complete in about 10 min)
the temp should not exceed 172?. The resulting reaction product is
dissolved in water, then saturated with potassium carbonate, and the
oil, which separates, is boiled with dilute sulfuric acid. 2.9 g of
tropinone picrate forms and is filtered.
Here are two more formulas devised by Willstatter that produce

tropinone from tropine. Take note of the yield differences.
Tropinone. To a solution of 25 g tropine, dissolved in 10 times its

weight of 20% sulfuric acid are added 25 g of a 4% solution of
potassium permanganate in 2 or 3 g portions over 45 min while
keeping the temp at 10-12?. The addition of permanganate will cause
heat (keep the temp 10-12?) and precipitation of manganese dioxide.
The reaction mixture is complete in I hour. A large excess of NaOH is
added and the reaction is steam distilled until I liter of distillate has
been collected. The tropinone is isolated as the dibenzal compound
by mixing the distillate with 40 g of benzaldehyde in 500 cc of
alcohol and 40 g of 10% sodium hydroxide solution. Let stand
several days to get dibenzaltropinone as yellow needles. Yield: 15.5
g, 28%. Recrystallize from ethanol to purify.
Tropinone. A solution of 12 g of chromic acid in the same amount of

water (12 g) and 60 g of glacial acetic acid is added dropwise with
28 of 64
stirring over a period of 4 hours to a solution of 25 g of tropine in 500

cc of glacial acetic acid that has been warmed to 60-70? and is
maintained at this temp during the addition. Heat the mixture for a
short time on a steam bath until all the chromic acid has
disappeared, cool and make strongly alkaline with NaOH. Extract
with six 500 cc portions of ether and evaporate the ether in vacuo to
get an oil that crystallizes readily. Purify by converting to the picrate
or fractionally distill, collecting the fraction at 224-225? at 714 mm
vacuo.
The tropinones can be used in the above formula (or in a formula

that you have found elsewhere) to be converted to cocaine.
Remember to recrystallize the 2-carbomethoxytropinone before
converting to methylecgonine.
OPIATES
Opiates are a class of drugs that most commonly come from the
Opium Plant. Some of the most common Opiates include but are not
limited to: Codeine, Morphine, Heroin, etc.
Opiates are downers, they make you feel like you are in a Drunk
state. Most alcoholics will tell you that if you take a Morphine pill,
that you can drink as much beer as you want, and you won't get
drunk. This is not true. The reason that alcoholics claim that you
cannot get drunk after taking a morphine pill is simply because they
are already in a drunk state of mind. Since alcoholics are so used to
this state of mind, they ignore it as if it is a normal part of their mind.
So, here are many different Opiate drug manufacturing techniques

that you might find usefull.
Extracting Codeine from Codeine Pills
The idea behind the following extraction is that acetaminophen and

aspirin (I'll use A/A from now on) are very insoluble in cold water.
Codeine phosphate (the most common salt of codeine) is very
soluble in water including cold water. The following table explains:
Solubility (31C water) (21C water)

Aspirin 1g / 100 ml 1g / 300ml
Acetaminophen 1g / 70 ml 1g / 150 ml
Codeine Phosphate 1g / 2.3 ml 1g / 0.7 ml
So as you can see, both A/A aren't very soluble in 21C water, so if
you cool the water to around 10C, the solubility will drop even
further. That way you can dissolve 20 tablets in 50ml of hot water,
cool the water down to 10C, filter the solution and end up with the
same amount of codeine as the tablets contained but only a fraction
of the original amount of A/A.
1. Obtain a quantity of tablets containing codeine, check to see if

they contain anything other than codeine, caffeine, acetaminophen
or aspirin. If they do, and you don't know whether or not it will be a
problem, your best bet is not to use them. Measure out your desired
amount of codeine (ex. 64 mg = 8 tablets * 8mg/tablet). You may want
to add 2 extra tablets as it is quite likely you will lose some codeine
29 of 64
in the procedure. As you get more experience with the procedure

you will be able to get approx. 95% of the codeine extracted.
2. Measure out some nice hot water, use approx. 40ml / 20 tablets or
more if needed. I would suggest you don't go over 50ml for 20
tablets. I don't know if the use of boiling water would destroy any of
the codeine but your best bet is not to use it. Use hot water but not
boiling. Make sure the tablets dissolve completely. Some dissolve on
contact with water while others need some help dissolving by
crushing them. Note : not all of the tablet will dissolve, there are
water-insoluble fillers in the tablet and not all of the A/A will dissolve
either(which is what we want).
3. Place the solution in a cold bath, I just use some ice cubes in a
container of water. Stir the mixture occasionally until the solution
drops to about 15C or lower. You won't need a thermometer to
measure the temperature, just make sure it's "cold". This will take
about 30 min. If you wish to speed this up, you can use less water to
dissolve the tablets, and add ice chips to cool the mixture faster.
Just make sure you don't add so much ice that you drastically
increase the volume of the mixture.
4. Filter the solution using whatever you have. Coffee filters work
well, but lab filters work the best. Just make sure you don't end up
with obvious solids in the filtered solution. This will take about 1 hr.
You may also want to rinse the solids left over in the filter with some
ice-water to extract any remaining codeine.
Converting Codeine into Morphine, then into Heroin
You will need to begin with almost pure codeine.
Now, make up a caustic solution of about 200ml of water. This is

done by slowly adding NaOH to the solution until it has a pH balance
of 12 (use cheap pH strips). Then add 30ml of it to the codeine/water
mix and then add 50ml of chloroform and shake and allow the
heavier solvent to sink to the bottom. Then you must separate off the
chloroform layer by using a siphon (use an eyedropper if you need
to), then wash the remanding solution again with 30ml of chloroform
and once again remove it. Now you must separate all the water from
the solvent and I mean every last drop. All of the water must be out,
and you can pipette it or use a separator of some kind (like a flask
with a tap, so you shut it off when the water gets close to running
through). Then evaporate off the chloroform with a pot filled with
simmering water in it. Just have a plate sitting on top of the pot and
slowly tip in solution and watch white crystalline codeine base
appear as the chloroform reduces out by dryness.
Tips: You want white codeine not brown and always use glass; its
easier to clean.
Next step producing Morphine from Codeine:
Now, you need to then measure out about 3 grams of pyridine HCL
for approximately one and a half grams of codeine and melt it in a
long boiling tube (or big test-tube). Then when melted, place in the
codeine and it all must dissolve and be able to swish around. Then
immediately plug the tube with a tightly rolled paper napkin. It will
turn different colors and it will be hard to tell when it's cooked, but
let it take about 5 minutes or when the temperature hits around 230
30 of 64
Celsius and then it will be done, and it will stick to the sides of the
tube when ready. Then tip all of it into a clean beaker with 100ml of
water. Then tip some water back into the now cooler test-tube and
rinse all of it out into the beaker. Next add caustic solution drop by
drop till you get to pH 14 (take about 3ml of the solution stated
above). You will need some pH papers. Now wash the solution with
chloroform say 40ml shake well and allow to settle or centrifuge
(spin), pipette off the top aqueous layer. Then drop the pH to 9 and
shine a light through it; you'll see it thicken with this brown mud like
shit. Don't go past 9, add one or two small drops once you hit 9 and
filter that crap out. The beat way is to use a vacuum filter with really
good filter paper. Now, check the pH you want it to go no lower than
7.5 (using HCL spirits of salts and hydrochloric acid) while it gets to
8pH start rubbing the sides of the beaker with a glass rod or handle
of a wooden spoon right in the liquid at the water level rub hard on
the beaker glass and morphine will seed in clouds off crystals, then
filter them out and dry high above an heating element on a metal
spoon (leave the dope on the filter paper and dry it then it is easy to
get off it flakes off in chunks).
Note: These crystalline codeine particles can be taken orally (under

your tongue for faster results) or mixed in a drink, if you wish not to
convert it into heroin.
Now, Converting your Morphine into street quality Heroin

(diacetylmorphine)Procedure: First, place some of your converted
morphine into a metal spoon and add acetic anhydride and then
cover with a piece of aluminum foil and bake in the oven at around
80 degrees Celsius, for at least 1 hour. Then uncover and turn the
oven off. Allow the last of the acetic anhydride to sweat off the
substance. Then place the remaining substance in the refrigerator.
When the substance is cold, you can move it to a burner (torch
lighter) and just heat till you think its at about at least 80 degree's
and sniff a couple inches above it. It shouldnt sting your nose, if it
does just heat it lightly some more until the smell goes away. Voila!
Now the final product is street quality heroin. Ready to either be
taken or sold.
Synthetic Heroin Synthesis (Fentanyl)
Introduction:
Fentanyl and its analogs are among of the most powerful opiate
agonists, but their synthesis are often hard. Here is a synthesis of
Fentanyl which can be easily adapted for the other analogs (Para-
Fluoro-Fentanyl, Alpha-Methyl-Fentanyl).
This procedure is not theoretic and have been tested and improved
many times over. This synthesis is conducted at room temperature
so you don't need any special apparatus.
Fentanyl is a very interesting component for underground chemistry

because one gram of pure fentanyl is equivalent of 100gr of very
good street heroin.
Principle:
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The precursor used is N-Phenethyl-Piperidone (NPP) which can be

easily synthesized from Piperidone and Phenethyl-Tosylate or
Phenethyl-Bromide through a simple SN2 mechanism.
The NPP is reacting with Aniline giving the Imine derivative which is
reduced to the 4-Anilino-N-Phenethyl- Piperidine (4-ANPP).
The 4-ANPP is then reacted with Propionyl Chloride giving Fentanyl

which is then purified.
Procedure:
N-Phenethyl-4-piperidone (NPP)
N-alkylation of 4-piperidone can be done in PTC conditions - and no

need to isolate your piperidone as free base. Add to one liter of
acetonitrile 3 mole finely powdered potassium carbonate, then add
10 g of PTC catalyst - TBAB or TEBA, or just polyethylene
glycol-400. Stir this suspension 15 min at 50-60?C, and then add in
little portions your 4-piperidone hydrochloride, watching that the
CO2 evolution wasn't too vigorous. Stir another hour at 50-60?C, and
then add phenethylbromide dropwise , and stir 15-20 h at mild reflux.
Then cool, and filter off inorganic salts - if filtration goes too slowly,
add to suspension some (30-40 ml) saturated sodium sulphate
solution, this makes the sticky precipitate granular and filterable.
Yield almost quantitative (trust me), and no distillation needed - as
result you have slightly yellow solid with mp 60?C.
a) Synthesis of the Imine derivative of NPP:
10 mmole of NPP is dissolved in a minimal volume of Aniline (about

5-6 ml), then 1 gr of 4A Molecular Sieves is added.
The mix is really gently stirred (so that the Molecular Sieves aren't
destroyed by the agitation) with a magnetic stirrer for about 24 H at
room temperature.
The conversion have repeatedly been calculated with MS and is

more than 99%, so the next phase can be conducted without any
purification.
b) Synthesis of the ANPP:
The reaction mixture from (a) is filtered from the Molecular Sieves
which are rinsed with 2*2ml THF, the filtrate and washings are
poured into a 50 ml flask, whereupon 20 ml dry Methanol is added,
and the mix is stirred.
About 1-1.5gr of Sodium Borohydride is very slowly added to the

mixture at room temperature, and the mix is stirred for about 2 h.
The conversion into ANPP is checked with any method and if not
completly reduced, add slowly another 0.5gr NaBH4 and stir for one
more hour.
When the conversion into ANPP is complete (over 95%), evaporate

the Methanol and THF under vacuum.
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After the evaporation there is a mass formed from the Aniline,

excess NaBH4 and ANPP complexed with borane.
Pour 50 ml of water into the flask, then destroy the complex by the
slow addition of a small quantity of concentrated HCl (35%) until the
pH is about 1, then the mix is well stirred for another hour. Now 50ml
of a saturated NaCl solution is added to the mixture, and after about
10 min, a solid mass precipitate.
Separate the solid from the liquid with a filtration and keep the solid
(this is ANPP hydrochloride) after washing it with a little saturated
NaCl solution.
Add another 50ml of saturated NaCl solution and place the mix in the
fridge (at about 2?C) and wait 2-3 h. If there is more precipitate, filter
the solution and add the solid to the first crop. The solid mass is
ANPP which must be treated.
Dissolve the solid in about 60ml water and 2N NaOH until the pH
reaches 12.5, then extract with 3*15ml CH2Cl2. Wash the CH2Cl2
phase with 5 ml water, and evaporate the solvent in vacuum. The
residue is an oily yellow-orange liquid which spontaneously
crystallizes, this is the ANPP which is pure enough for the next step.
The overall yield of ANPP is about 50-80%. The main loss of yield is
during the purification process because the separation process
between the excess of Aniline and ANPP is not optimized. There are
perhaps some solutions to this, which will be discussed in the
optimization and discussion chapter.
c) Conversion of ANPP to Fentanyl:
10mmols of ANPP are dissolved in about 8 ml of Pyridine with

stirring, and then 12 mmoles of Propionyl Chloride is added
dropwise to the reaction mixture at room temperature. The reaction
is exothermic and the Propionyl Chloride must be carefully added,
so that the temperature doesn't rise over 60?C. You don't need a
cooling bath, the temperature should be controlled with the addition
rate of Propionyl Chloride and must stay between 30 and 60?C
during the addition.
When all the Propionyl Chloride is added, the reaction mixture is

stirred for about one hour at room temperature.
Check the conversion with any method and if not complete add
another 1 mmol of Propionyl Chloride. Normally the conversion
should be complete after the first operation but if there is too much
Aniline you need more Propionyl Chloride.
The reaction mix is then poured into 80 ml water with stirring, and
conc HCl (about 35%) is added dropwise until the pH falls below 1.5.
This operation can be done with another procedure as follows:
Prepare 80 ml of 2N HCl and simply pour the reaction mix into this
solution. This results in the pyridine and the fentanyl turns into their
respective hydrochlorides. The solution is then left with stirring for
about 30min. The Pyridine HCl is not soluble in CH2Cl2, while the
nonpolar Fentanyl HCl is. Extract the solution with 3*20ml of CH2Cl2,
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then wash the organic phase with 2*10ml saturated NaCl solution.
The solvent is evaporated under vacuum, and a yellow mass is

formed which consists of Fentanyl hydrochloride with a small
quantity of Propionanilide as an impurity. 10-15ml Acetone is now
added, and a white powder forms, which is Fentanyl HCl. Filter the
solid and wash it with a small quantity (2*3ml) of acetone.
The Fentanyl HCl is now pure enough for use (>99.5%). The yield in
this step is over 90%!
If not pure enough (it was never the case for me) you can purify it by
recrystallisation from hot acetone.
d) Preparation of synthetic white Heroin for street use:
The pure Fentanyl can not be used as is, because it's much, much
too strong and MUST be diluted, else there will be a lot of overdoses!
The following procedure gives a white heroin wich is the same as

very good (30%) street heroin.
100mg of Fentanyl.HCl is dissolved in 2ml of Methanol. Weigh up 10g

of Lactose and warm it at about 60-70?C into a large dish with a
hotplate. Add the methanolic solution of Fentanyl dropwise at
regular intervals into the warm Lactose for a good pre-mix . Wait
until all the Methanol is evaporated and mix the Lactose-Fentanyl
thoroughly. This is crucial because if this is not thoroughly mixed,
there will be a part of the Lactose without Fentanyl and part of the
Lactose with too much Fentanyl, possibly causing dramatic
overdoses!
Now you have a very high quality of street white Heroin.
This type of Heroin was used and sold during a year, and the
feedback of the consumers was very good. The consumers were
very happy and didn't want the usual brown Heroin anymore. So be
careful, some people (The Mafia and other dealers) will perhaps turn
very jealous!
Remember that with 1gr of pure Fentanyl HCl you can make 100gr of
very high quality Heroin!
DON'T USE and DON'T SELL pure Fentanyl HCl, this is a very toxic
material which can cause many overdoses if not diluted!
e) Optimization and discussion:
The overall yield of this synthesis is about 50-80% and the main loss
of product is during the purification of ANPP in step (b).
There are perhaps other alternatives for the separation of Aniline

and ANPP (recrystallisation, distillation). I think a good solution is
extracting the Aniline and ANPP together and separate them with the
evaporation of Aniline under vacuum, then recrystallize the ANPP in
a suitable solvent.
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Para-Fluoro-Fentanyl can be synthetised with this procedure using

Para-Fluoro-Aniline instead of plain Aniline, but the purification
process must be adapted.
The very powerful Alpha-Methyl-Fentanyl can also be synthetised

with this method using N-(2-Phenylpropyl)-Piperidinone which can
be synthetised from 1-Phenyl-2-Bromopropane and Piperidinone or
other methods. The 1-Phenyl-2-Bromopropane is used in the
underground manufacture of Amphetamine, and the procedure of
the synthesis of this compound can be easily adapted for the
creation of N-(2-Phenylpropyl)-Piperidinone or the NPP
(N-Phenethyl- Piperidinone).
Fentanyl is a very good and powerful opiate but there are some
remarks:
Fentanyl is very addicting , much more than simple Heroin , the

regular users of this synthetic white Heroin I described was really
strong addicted. The risk of overdose is really big, even with the
dilution i described before, so test your stuff before selling it! The
duration of the effects is a little shorter than with normal Heroin.
Codeinone from Thebaine
Procedure:
To a 3-litre flask provided with a stirrer, a thermometer, and a gas

outlet duct containing calcium chloride, and containing a solution of
150 g of dry hydrobromic acid in 550 ml. of di-n-butylether externally
cooled down to -15?C, there was added a solution of 2 g of iodine
dissolved in 100 ml. of dry methylene chloride, while the temperature
was gradually lowered to -20?C.
Once such a temperature was reached, a solution of 100 g thebaine

(purity 92.5%), dissolved in 1000 ml. of methylene chloride
previously cooled to -15?C, was added. As a result of this addition,
the temperature increased to +10?C. The temperature was then
lowered to 0?C in a short time and was maintained at that level for
further 7 minutes.
After that length of time, the contents of the flask were poured with
vigorous agitation into a 5-litre flask containing a suspension of 180
g of sodium bicarbonate in 1000ml of water and 450 g of ice.
Agitation was continued for an hour and the reaction product

separated into two phases. The pH value of the aqueous phase was
increased to 8 by addition of diluted soda and extracted three times
with 200 ml of methylene chloride. The extract was added to the
previous organic phase, washed with water, and dried with
anhydrous sodium sulphate. The solvent was then removed from the
solution under vacuum until its volume was reduced to 1/leo
Codeinone of a clear pure colour was obtained by concentration of
the solution, filtration and washing with ethyl ether.
96 g Codeinone having a melting point of 165-167?C and a purity of

90.36% were obtained with a calculated yield of 98%.
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Conversion of Thebaine to Codeine
Procedure
A solution of 1.17 g (3.75 mmol) of thebaine and 79.8 mg (0.25 mmol,

6.7 mol%) of Hg(OAc)2 in 100 ml of 3N formic acid was stirred under
nitrogen, for 6.5 hr. The solution was diluted with 100 ml of saturated
aqueous K2CO3 and extracted with CHCl3. The organic layer was
washed with water, dried over Na2SO4, and evaporated in a rotary
evaporator.
The residue was dissolved in 5.3 ml of CHCl3 and allowed to react

with 5.3 ml of a solution of 1.1 g of hydrogen chloride in 10 ml of
ether. A precipitate formed immediately, but the reaction was allowed
to continue for 30 min before the reaction mixture was diluted with
2.5 ml of CH2Cl2 and 2.5 ml of the above solution of hydrogen
chloride in ether. The reaction was allowed to continue for 15 min
more, whereupon 250 ml of cold 0.2 N NaOH solution and 50 ml of
CHCl3 were added to the mixture. After separation of the layers, the
aqueous layer was re-extracted with CHCl3. The combined organic
extracts were washed with water, dried over Na2SO4, and
evaporated using a rotary evaporator.
To the residue, dissolved in 60 ml of methanol, was added 3.02 g (79

mmol) of NaBH4 in 73 ml of methanol. Under nitrogen, the reduction
was allowed to proceed for 15 hr. The resulting solution was
concentrated to a volume of 60 ml, diluted with 60 ml of 10% NaOH
solution, and heated to reflux. The reaction mixture was further
diluted with 50 ml of water and extracted with CHCl3. The organic
extract was washed with water, dried over Na2SO4, and evaporated
using a rotary evaporator to yield 890 mg (79%) of crude white
codeine, GC analysis of which indicated 90% purity. The crude
product was sublimed (100?C/0.03 mmHg) to give codeine in 80%
yield, mp 151-154?C.
Mercury concentration of codeine prepared as above was of the

order of 22 ppm, according to atomic absorption determination.
Conversion of Oxycodone to Oxymorphone
It seems a number of bees have access to oxycodone. Once this

compound is available, one would immediately dream of converting
this compound into the far more potent oxymorphone. This would
increase the potency by a factor of 15 when based on intramuscular
application.
Most processes to split off the O-methyl in codeines are quite

messy, the yield is low, expensive or hard-to-get chemicals are
required ... and a lot more worries which makes it usually not
parctical to do for bees. But now yours truly has now found a
process TO DO IT in a process adaptable to kitchen chemistry. All
chemicals are cheap and unsuspicious.
Here is the procedure
A mixture of 3.15 g (10e-2 mole) of oxycodone, 28.3 g (3.1e-1 mole) of

methanesulfonic acid and 2.2 g of DL-methionine are heated to 40?
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C. The reaction mixture is stirred at this temperature for 12 hours

and then poured onto ice. The mixture is made alkaline with
ammonia to a pH = 8 to 9, then extracted with dichloromethane. The
organic phases are washed with water, dried over sodium sulfate
and evaporated to dryness under reduced pressure. The crude
product thus obtained (2.51 g) is purified on a column of silica by
eluating with pure chloroform followed by a gradient with methanol.
2.17 g of oxymorphone are thus obtained, which represents a yield
of 72%.
You will most likely want to convert this into the hydrochloride: 5 g
of the purified base previously obtained are disolved in 30 ml of
warm acetone. After concentration to about 10 ml, 5 ml of 6N
hydrochloric acid are added to the warm solution. The mixture is
cooled to -10? C, and the precipitate is filtered off, washed with
acetone and dried at 50? C in a vacuum. 4.83 g of oxymorphone
hydrochloride are thus obtained. Yield 87%.
With an overall yield of 63% and a potency increase of 15, the actual
gain factor is around 9, i.e. you have 9 times more opioid activity
than at the beginning. A one-day dose can therefore be converted
into a week-dose. No bad, eh?
The kitchen chemistry adaptions would include the use of a hair

dryer insted of the reduced pressure, skipping the purification
process (the crude product should be clean enough and no toxic
chemicals have been used).
I already know your next question: will it work with codeine or other
codeine derivatives like dihydrocodeine or hydrocodone? NO, it
won't. The yield would be terribly low (~15%) and a lot of goo is
formed so serious cleanup has to be done.
MARIJUANA
Here in the Marijuana Section I will be covering two simple methods

for making your Marijuana better for smoking. Two different methods
for extracting the crude form of THC from yoru Marijuana. One of
them is about how to make Hash Oil, and the other on how to make
Hashish
These methods are very simple, and can be carried out by anyone
that has a bag of pot, and want's to make it better.
Extracting Hash Oil using Butane
This method has its basis in a fascinating industrial extraction

method known as Supercritical Fluid Extraction. It uses totally
over-the-counter butane gas (8 oz can, camping supply store,
~US$4.50) as the extraction solvent, and requires nothing even
remotely suspicious or difficult to purchase. The only other thing
needed is about $2.00 worth of PVC pipe: a section 1.5 (one and a
half) feet long and 1 & 3/4" diameter (outer diameter I believe), and
two end caps. Threaded PVC is not necessary.
For reasons not yet clear to those of us investigating these things

"unofficially," butane (and perhaps other gas/solvents with similar
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ultra-low-boiling properties) selectively solvate the desirable

fraction(s) of cannabis oils, pulling out only a beautiful amber
"honey oil" and leaving the undesirable vegetative oils, waxes,
chlorophyll, etc. behind in the plant matter. Even unsmokable shade
leaves produce a wonderfully clean and potent gold oil with this
method. I have every reason to suspect that this would work
splendidly to extract a super-strong and tasty oil from gross,
unpalatable "schwag" commercial pot too, and of course, the better
grade of herb you put it in, the better the resulting oil.
Method:
In one of the PVC end caps, drill a single small hole in the center.
This hole should be correctly sized to snugly receive the little outlet
nozzle of your butane can.
In the other end cap, drill a group of 5 or 6 small holes clustered in

the center (like a pepper shaker).
After putting a piece of paper towel or coffee filter inside it for

filtration, put the end cap with several holes on one end of the pipe.
Push it on there real tight. This is the bottom.
Fill the pipe up with plant matter that has been pulverized into a
coarse powder. You want it filled, but not packed down. (Full pipe
estimated at 1.5 oz capacity, but this is a guess. I did not weigh it.)
Place the top end cap on the pipe. Again, push it on as securely as
you can by hand.
Find a location outdoors with a decent breeze. You want these

butane fumes to be quickly carried away. Seriously.
Mount the pipe (single hole-side up) over a vessel that can hold
300mL+. Beakers are perfect. A lab stand and clamp are ideal for the
mounting, but a regular shop clamp or anything that can hold it
sturdily is fine. (Avoid metal if you can, to reduce the chance of
sparks.)
Position the bottom end of the pipe immediately over (1-2") the
receiving vessel to eliminate splatter loss.
Turn the butane gas can upside down and dispense the gas into the
pipe via the single top hole. A whole 8-oz can takes about 10-12
seconds to evacuate. Be brave, swift, and careful. A spark at this
moment would spell disaster since you have basically created an
incendiary explosive device that is leaking.
When you've exhausted the can into the pipe, back off to a nice
distance and let it do its thing.
The butane moves down the pipe, extracting the cannabis as it goes.
When it gets to the bottom (~30 seconds after dispensing), it begins
to drain into the receiving vessel. Notice the pale, glowing yellow-
green-gold hue of the extract. It is obvious no chlorophyll was pulled
out of the herb.
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Over approximately five to eight minutes, the butane extract will

finish draining from the pipe to the receiving vessel. Maintain
caution with the pipe, however, since there is a lot of residual butane
still evaporating from within the pipe (notice the stream of fumes
coming from the top hole). When it slows down to a drop every few
seconds, you can tap on the top hole with your finger and it will help
push the last of the liquid butane out (or one can gently blow into the
top hole to do the same thing). Remember, NO SMOKING, unless you
wish to immolate yourself in grand fashion.
Being very low-boiling and volatile, the collected butane will likely
begin boiling at ambient temperature. The receiving vessel will
gradually frost up as the butane cools it down, slowing down its rate
of evaporation, but you can speed this up again simply by holding it
in your hands. A better way is to set it in a saucepan containing a
little bit of warm water. Watch the butane start bubbling madly with
the increase in temperature and marvel at its low boiling point.
Again, be doing this outdoors with a nice breeze! It takes about 20
minutes or so to allow the butane to evaporate, or quicker if you help
it along. You are left with a deep amber, almost orange oil of amazing
purity.
The best way to collect and store the oil is probably to let all of the
butane evaporate off and then redissolve the oil in some anhydrous
or high-% alcohol, and then pour this into a vial and let it sit out for a
day or two to allow the alcohol to evaporate. Trying to transfer the oil
into a small container while it is still solvated by the butane is too
risky. I learned the hard way about this, thanks to the volatile
temperament of butane. I had filled a vial almost all the way to the
top and was preparing to drop those last couple drops in, so that
cleverly, I could let the last of the butane evaporate from the vial and
the oil would all be neatly contained. But when the last drop hit the
mother lode in the vial, it changed the temperature of the solution in
the vial upward by a hair and it all "superboiled" out of the vial and
onto my fingers, which of course startled me and caused me to drop
the vial. I suggest dissolving it in alcohol as I mentioned above. If
you can get pure or 99% isopropanol (isopropyl), use it, because
THC's photosensitivity reportedly does not occur in isopropanol.
The final product is a deep yellow-amber oil of the highest quality,

incredibly pure and potent. I remember well some of the prime
"honey oil" hash oils that hit the market in the late 1970s, and this
stuff stands up to (if not exceeds) any of them. It's amazing how this
method extracts only the good fraction and leaves the junk in the
weed. But that's exactly what it does. Note also that this oil has a
somewhat higher melt/vaporization point than traditional hash oils;
the traditional dispensing method (dipping a needle or paper clip in,
getting some goop on the end, and warming it with a flame to get it
to drip off into your bowl) still works with this stuff, but it seems you
have to be more careful with it because it doesn't heat to liquid state
as quickly or in the same manner, and it can more easily be allowed
to burn up on your needle. So be careful.
Those who prefer a tincture-like preparation can of course thin the

product a little with a bit of warm high-percentage alcohol like
Everclear or 90-whatever-% isopropyl, then drop it onto buds or let a
joint absorb some, then let the alcohol evaporate. I also observed
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that unlike hash oil derived from traditional methods, this product is
not immediately soluble in room-temp alcohol; it needed to be
warmed before it dissolved fully.
So there it is. Spread the word far and wide: honey oil is BACK!
Making Hashish
Get a LOT of female plants that have grown all the way and may even
contain seeds. Make sure they are absolutely dry by hanging them in
a shed for some weeks. Now take off All the leaves that are bigger
than 1/2 inch. You end up with just a stem with some buds sitting on
it. Now strip off the buds into a container. (BTW, Hash (moroccan
style) consitsts EXCLUSIVELY of the pressed grains of resin that are
sitting on top of tiny resin glands that are most abundant on the
leaves surrounding the seeds, or flowers. when the plant is dry this
resin hardens to form a very small particle, called "pollen" which is
not actual pollen however.)
So now youve got all the clean buds start crushing them over a
kitchen sieve (mesh size about 0.5 mm). The seeds and stems will
stay on top of the sieve. "Grind" the leaves gently through the sieve.
You end up with a sort of powdered leaves. Be sure that the thin
skins that surround the seeds are included in this result, because
they contain most of the resin glands. You may repeat this process
using a sieve with an even smaller mesh size (0.25 mm). Then take a
cloth with the appropriate "mesh size" and rub the powder you have
already got over this cloth. In the ideal case, only the finestt particles
pass through the cloth and will consist only of tiny grains of resin.
Now take this powder and wrap it into a sheet of kitchen plastic foil.
Now press this "package" between a few logs of wood.
The result is a sheet of hashisch. If the sheet falls apart again you've
got too much leafy stuff in between the resine. Try a cloth with a
smaller mesh size the next time. This procedure is only advised
when you have so much weed to spare that you don't possibly
smoke it all in a year.
PSILOCYBIN MUSHROOMS
Psilocybin Mushrooms are "Magic Mushrooms." They induce a

'trippy' state of mind, and in larger doses; cause Hallucinations.
I recommend that you search the internet for "Spore Syringes."

Since you need spores inorder to grow your mushrooms, the
internet is the perfect place to buy these spores.
The following is a guide to producing your own Mushrooms.
Growing Psilocybin Mushrooms
OVERVIEW OF PROCESS:
In this section I will just give a brief description of the growing

process before I get into the actual details of it. First off: Sterilization
- Sterilization is a very important part of mushroom cultivation, but
not as important as most people think. What I mean by that is the
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fact that there are probably billions of foreign contaminate spores

floating around in the air where you are now. If some of these spores
get into your culture jars they can easily kill your young plants. If we
just use some common sense during the process of cultivation we
can easily block out 90% of these foreign spores, that means the
ultra sterile complicated methods (inoculating hoods, etc.) only
block out the last 10% of the contaminates. I don't mind the 10%
odds of my having contaminated cultures. With those odds I will lose
approximate. 1.2 jars per dozen, not too bad. Even with the
complicated methods and setups I lose that many cultures, so I've
decided to bypass the complicated process, thus simplicity.
In my process, a mixture of organic brown rice flour, vermiculite and

water are mixed in a bowl and spooned into twelve 1/2 pint mason
jars (15 minutes work). These jars are placed in a covered pot of
boiling water until sterile (about 20 minutes). After they have cooled
they are inoculated with spores (20 minutes work). At this time the
jars are just placed under your bed, on a shelf in a closet or in a
drawer and left alone for approximately three weeks. When this time
period is up the jars are opened and the contents are mixed with
potting soil in a tray, similar to a Rubbermaid or Tupperware bread
box, and left alone for another week. Soon the entire surface of the
soil will be covered with white mycelium and possibly dozens of
mushrooms in various stages of growth.
At this stage in the process all that is needed now is a once or twice
a day misting (with a hand sprayer) to keep the soil moist, and the
picking of all matured mushrooms. It is a very easy process to grow
mushrooms using this method. Most books and manuals dedicated
to mushroom cultivation are based on laboratory processes, are
very complicated and not easily understood by the inexperienced
cultivator. It is for this reason I have decided to write this guide.
Hopefully it will help shed some of the fears new growers may have
about not "knowing enough" to be successful. I recommend that
when you are successful in cultivating of your crops that you take
one of your mature mushrooms and make another sporeprint with it
to replace the one that you used. This way you can always start a
new crop whenever you desire or if you pass this guide on to
someone else they will have the seeds required to try this cultivation
process themselves.
SUPPLIES REQUIRED:
* Organic Brown Rice Flour: This *flour can be found in most any
health food store and some larger upscale grocery stores even carry
it. It usually comes in a two-pound bag and costs under $3.00. Make
sure that the bag has the words "Organically Produced" on it, this is
very important. A two-pound bag will be sufficient to make about
three dozen (36) culture jars.
ADDITION May 12, 2000 : If you can't find brown rice flour you can
substitute it with either soy flour or rye flour as long as it states
"Organically Produced" on the package.
* Vermiculite: This is a product that can be found almost anywhere
garden supplies are sold. I buy mine at either a K-Mart or Wal-Mart
garden department or a huge bag costs under $4.00. Its purpose is
to retain moisture and help keep the soil from becoming too tightly
compacted.
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* Hand Spray Bottle: I buy mine at K-Mart in the health and beauty
section. Make sure it has an adjustable nozzle so you can spray a
fine mist with it. These cost less than $1.00 each (buy 2).
* Canning Jars: You will need to purchase a case (one dozen) of 1/2
pint or 1 pint canning jars which are also called jelly jars or Mason
jars. These can be found in about every major grocery store and cost
around $4.00 to $6.00 a dozen. Make sure they are "wide mouth",
meaning the top of the jar is larger than (or the same size as) the
bottom of the jar, this is so the contents will simply slide out of the
jar when ready (1/2 pint = 8 ounces and 1 pint = 16 ounces).
* Plastic Trays: These can be purchased in K-Mart or Wal-Mart also
and are about the size of a standard shoe box with a snap on lid. I
purchase mine in the K-mart kitchen storage utensil area. They are
called Modular Storage Containers made by Aero Housewares (stock
#3515). They are 13" x 7-1/2" x 6"high and come in packs of five for
$4.89. If you can't find this exact brand, any similar sized type will do
as long as it has a lid on it.
* Potting Soil: This is just a small bag of potting soil, which can be
purchased, also at (you guessed it) the K-Mart or Wal-Mart garden
section for $1.00 or less. This is the same type of dirt you would
purchase to plant most house plants in.
This is the complete equipment list you will need to buy for
cultivating mushrooms in your own home, the total cost is under
$20.00 and you should have no problem locating any of the items.
Everything else you will need, with the exception of spores, can
usually be found around the house and is listed below:
* Small Knife: This can be any small sharp knife that has a pointed
end on the blade. It will be used to scrape the spores from the
sporeprint into the jars.
* Bleach: This will be used to sterilize the work area. Lysol spray is
excellent for this task but bleach is 1/10 of the price and also it is
non-flammable.
* Water: This can be tap water, distilled water, drinking water, spring
water or filtered water. The only water we can't use is water that has
been softened using a salt water softener or saltwater itself.
* Large Pot with Lid: This just needs to be what it sounds like, a
large pot with a lid on it. The larger the better but as long as it is high
enough to put the lid on with the canning jars inside it is fine. This
will be used to boil (sterilize) the jars in.
INOCULATING:
This is the first, and most important step in the process. What we
will be doing here is mixing the substrate, which is the nutritional
food for your plant, and putting it into the individual jars. These jars
are then boiled in a covered pot of water to sterilize and kill any
germs or spores that may have gotten inside. After being removed
from the boiling pot and allowed to cool down, these jars are then
opened and some spores are scraped inside from the sporeprint and
the lid is replaced. This is all there is to it.
1. Remove the jars from the box they were purchased in, wash them
in warm soapy water, rinse well and dry. In a large mixing bowl
measure 2-2/3 cups of "organically produced" brown rice flour and
eight cups of vermiculite. Mix these two ingredients together with a
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large spoon until they are well combined, then add 2-2/3 cups of
*water and continue mixing until everything is equally combined and
there are no dry spots. Spoon this mixture loosely (do not pack tight)
into 12 one half pint or 6 one pint canning jars equally. Wipe the rims
of the jars clean with a paper towel and put the lids on them (the
rubber seal facing down).
ADDITION April 23, 2000 : This additional step is not necessary, but it
will help your crop to produce up to 25% more shrooms. If you take
one cup of the water and before you add it to the dry mix in the bowl
bring it to a boil in the microwave. When you take it out of the
microwave, while it is still hot, immediately stir in one teaspoon of
honey (any kind). Then you add the water to the dry mix in the bowl
(along with the rest of the water) and stir as directed. What this
honey does is add more nutrients and dextrose (sugar) to your
substrate which is just more FOOD for the mycelium to consume
(meaning more shrooms).
2. Right before you place your jars into the pot or pressure cooker
you will need to *loosen the lids slightly to prevent the jars from
cracking during the boiling cycle. Place as many jars as will fit into
the pot (standing up) without forcing. Slowly add water to the pot
until the level comes up halfway on the jars. Place the pot on a
burner and bring it slowly to a boil using medium high heat. Put the
lid on the pot, reduce heat to medium low to keep a low boil going
and leave it alone for 20 minutes. When the 20 minutes are up
remove the pot from the heat and "leave the lid on" until the pot is
warm to the touch without burning your hand (do not be tempted to
peek under the lid). When the pot is warm to the touch, remove the
lid, quickly remove each jar and tighten the lids down immediately,
this is to keep invading spores from entering the jars through the
loose lids. If you could not fit all twelve jars in the pot at one time,
you can now repeat this process as many times as it takes to get all
of your jars sterilized.
<
If the jars you purchased have the two piece metal lids (disc and
ring) you do not need to leave them loose, so go ahead and tighten
them down now before boiling. They are called self sealing lids. The
lids you must leave loose are the glass or ceramic lids.
3. Once you have all of your jars sterilized and allowed to cool down
to room temperature (just sit them on a shelf *overnight) it is time to
place the spores inside. This is the point in the process where you
just use common sense when it comes to being sterile. Since the air
is full of millions of spores all around you and it is almost impossible
to get rid of them, the next best thing you can do is to kill them. Find
a small room that is fairly clean, a kitchen is fine, where you will be
wanting to do your transfer of spores. Turn off all fans, heaters and
air conditioners so the air in the room is sitting still. On a clean
counter or table place the following items:
<
It is a good idea to let your jars sit on a shelf for three days (after
sterilizing, but before adding the spores) to make sure that all
contaminates in the jars were destroyed during the boiling process.
After the three days are up,and if you don't see any mold growing
inside your jars, it is a safe sign to proceed with your spore
inoculation. This three day wait is not really necessary, but it is
better to find out if your jars are sterile before you add the spores
than to find out later and possibly lose your spores to a foreign
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contaminate.
* A small pointed knife (if using a sporeprint)
* A cigarette lighter (if using a sporeprint)
* A push pin thumbtack (if using a spore syringe)
* A roll of tape (if using a spore syringe)
* A spray bottle filled with a 50/50 mixture of water and bleach.
* The sterilized substrate jars you prepared earlier.
* The sporeprint (or spore syringe) you will be using.
* Wash and dry your hands.
4. Adjust the nozzle on the bleach/water spray bottle to a fine mist
and spray the air in the room to kill any airborne bacteria and
spores*. After the mist has settled for a few minutes it is time to
inoculate (plant seeds in) the jars. Note: If you are going to inoculate
with a spore syringe, skip the rest of Step 4 and go now to Step 4A.
While you are doing this it is a good idea to either hold your breath
or tie a scarf over your mouth and nose so you don't breathe germs
into the jars while the lids are off (about 15 seconds each). Use the
cigarette lighter to heat the point of the knife till it is red hot and then
let it cool back down to room temperature which should take a
couple minutes. Making slow moves, to keep from causing a breeze,
you can now take the lid off of the first jar and lie it upside down on
top of one of the other jars. Open the sporeprint and hold it at a
sharp angle over the open jar and with the tip of the knife scrape a
small amount of spores on top of the substrate in the jar, replace and
tighten the lid. Breathe. Repeat this process until you have
inoculated all twelve jars. As far as how many spores to use; If you
can see any spores fall into the jar, that is sufficient. It usually takes
an area of sporeprint about the size of a match head to inoculate
each jar. Move on to Step 5.
<
It is a good idea to cover your sporeprint with an upside down bowl
before spraying the bleach/water in the room. The bleach/water can
kill the spores if it is allowed to get on the sporeprint. After you
spray the room please wait a couple minutes before removing the
bowl covering the sporeprint, this will give the spray time to settle in
the room. It is also a good idea to wear light color clothing since the
spraying of the bleach water could possibly spot dark clothing.
<
First you will need to take the thumbtack and poke a small hole in
the center of the first jar lid (without removing the lid from the jar).
Carefully stick the syringe needle at an angle into the hole you just
made and squirt about 3/4cc of spore solution between the glass
side of the jar and the substrate. Remove the syringe needle from
the hole and immediately place a piece of tape over the hole to
protect your substrate from any foreign contaminates entering your
jar through the hole. Continue this process until all of you substrate
jars have been inoculated with spore solution.
<
5. Place the twelve jars on a shelf in a closet, under your bed or in a
dresser drawer and leave them alone for three weeks. You can look
in on them if you wish from time to time to check their progress but
"never" take off, or even loosen the lid. The progress you are looking
for is a pure white mold growing on the surface of the substrate in
the jar. This is the mycelium (mushroom plant) which will one day
put out lots of fruits we call mushrooms. If any color of mold is
noticed growing in the jars other than the snow white color of the
mycelium, that jar is contaminated and *sometimes must be
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destroyed. All that means is you have to dump the jar out, wash it
over and use it again. The jars you purchased can be used dozens of
times, over and over. These jars of mycelium will grow in almost any
temperature in your house as long as it is comfortable for you,
usually that is somewhere in the high 60's to the high 70's. This
white mycelium will first start growing on the top surface of the
substrate and then begin working its way down the sides of the jar.
When it has grown to a point that it is touching the bottom of the jar
in at least one place it is time to case the jars, which forces the
mycelium to fruit.
A contaminated jar is not necessarily a lost jar. I recommend that if

you see a foreign mold (any color other than white) growing inside
your jar, just leave it alone for a while. Most of the time when these
two molds meet (your mycelium and the contaminate) your
mycelium will kill the contaminate and your jar will survive. If the
contaminate takes over and kills the mycelium, then it is time to
dump the jar out.
CASING:
In this phase of the process we will be going over how to introduce

the mature mycelium to soil in preparation for fruiting. It is a very
easy process and the sterility is not of great importance anymore
because the mycelium in your jars is mature at this point and is fairly
strong and capable of fighting off most invading spores and bacteria
on its own from this point on.
1. The supplies you need to get together for this step are, the potting
soil, the vermiculite (you should have a lot left over), a spray bottle
of plain water, a large mixing bowl, a large spoon, your plastic trays
and the substrate jars with the mycelium growing in them. Make sure
you have all of these supplies in one place before you begin the next
step.
2. In the mixing bowl, add 1-1/2 cups of potting soil and 1-1/2 cups of
vermiculite. Mix these ingredients together using the large spoon
until they are well combined. Using the spray bottle of plain water,
lightly spray the mixture and mix with the large spoon several times
until the mixture is moistened to field capacity, meaning that if you
take a handful of this mixture in your hand and squeeze it into a ball
it will hold its shape but no water will drip out. We want the mixture
moist but not saturated.
3. Pour the soil/vermiculite/water mixture into one of the trays and
spread it level on the bottom (at least one inch deep). Remove the
lids from three of your substrate/mycelium jars and dump the
contents on top of the soil mixture on the bottom of the tray. Using
freshly washed hands, crumble the mycelium/substrate cakes into
small pieces (about the size of marbles) and spread them out into an
even layer on top of the soil/vermiculite layer.
4. Put 3 cups of plain potting soil into the mixing bowl. Using the
spray water bottle and the large spoon, spray and mix back and forth
until your soil as reached the field capacity stage (as described in
step 2). Pour this into the tray on top of the crumbled
mycelium/substrate cakes and spread level with the spoon. What
you should have now is a three layer sandwich. Bottom layer being
soil/vermiculite, center layer being crumbled up mycelium/substrate
cakes and top layer being plain premoistened soil. Put the lid on the
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tray and repeat this process with your other jars and trays until you
have all of your jars cased.
5. Place these filled and covered trays in a closet, under your bed or
in a dresser drawer and leave them alone for seven days at room
temperature. They do not require any light during this time, but if
they do get light it is alright, its just not necessary.
GROWING SHROOMS:
This is the last and final phase of the cultivation process; it is also
the easiest and most fun because it is the actual growing and
picking of the mushrooms themselves. We have now waited five or
six weeks to get to this point and I know that everyone is excited
about finally being able to see the fruits of their labor.
1. It is now time to remove the lids from your trays and let the plants
breathe some fresh air. By now you should have a white fungi (mold)
growing across the surface of the soil. This is your mature mycelium
looking for a place to have its babies (mushrooms). Remove the lids
from your trays and put them away, we will no longer need them until
it is time to reuse the trays for another crop.
2. Using your spray bottle of water, saturate the surface of the soil
with 10 to 12 good pumps of water. You want the soil to be fairly wet,
but not to the point that your plants will be sitting in still water. The
layer on the bottom of your tray (soil/vermiculite) should be able to
absorb most overwatering and release it back into the soil as
needed.
3. Continue watering the surface once or twice daily as needed. It
will not take very long to be able to know when your trays need
watering - when the surface is dry, it needs more water. They seem
to need more water during the cold months because of the dry air in
your home produced by your heater. If you have to miss a day of
watering your trays for some reason, you can just lie the lid back on
top of the tray, leaving about a one inch gap so air can circulate,
right after you water it. This will allow your mycelium to breathe but
at the same time reduce evaporation.
4. Within a short time of removing your lids, one day to one week,
you should have several mushrooms popping up out of each tray.
When these mushrooms start to open up and break the veil under
the cap, they are ready for harvest. Just reach in and grasp the stem
as close to the soil as possible and give a twist, it will pop right out.
5. This is not a step, just a reminder to keep spraying, and keep
harvesting, until the tray no longer is producing shrooms (one to two
months). When your mycelium finally quits producing shrooms you
can dump out your tray, wash it and reuse it over and over. Well, that
is my method. It is really easier to do than most people think. If you
have any questions about this procedure you can e-mail your
questions to me at mshroomer@yahoo.com and I will answer them
to the best of my ability.
SALVIA DIVINORUM
Salvia Divinorum is a Herb that induces heavy hallucinations.

Amazingly, this herb is 100% Legal in the United States. So you can
literally smoke this stuff as much as you want, and blow it in any
cop's face, and he can't do a damn thing about it.
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This section will describe how to make a Salvia Divinorum extract

out of Salvia leaves. Salvia extract is by far the best method for
ingesting Salvia since the hallucinations begin to hit you about 20
seconds after the first lung full of smoke.
Extracting Salvia
After several months of experimentation with various types of Salvia

extractions, i have finally settled on the following method as being
the easiest and least expensive method for home cookers. The
extraction is basically in two parts. The first being an extraction with
water, and the second with acetone. This method produces high
quality extracts by removing most of the resins that would leave you
with a gummy mess. Home extractions up to 20x are possible in this
manner. Please be aware that acetone is flammable and its vapors
toxic.
For this you will need:
* 100 grams salvia divinorum (whole leaf or large pieces prefferred)

* 1 large mixing bowl
* 1 large piece of muslin or cheesecloth
* 1 gallon COOL distilled water (but not cold)
* 1 large glass baking dish (9x13 or so)
* a coffee grinder
* 2 quart mason jar (must be glass)
* 1/2 gallon of acetone(do not buy "extra strength" or anything like
that, and please evaporate a few ounces to be sure it does not leave
any residue, if it does, do not use it)
* several coffee filters
* 1 wire strainer (6 inch or so, to fit the coffee filters comfortably,
cannot be plastic)
* 1 small glass dish for evaporation (we use one that is 5 inch wide
and 3 inch tall)
The recipe:
Take your mixing bowl and place the muslin or cheesecloth in it so

that the edges are liberally draped over the side of the bowl. Place
the whole Salvia leaf on the cloth. Fill the bowl with COOL distilled
water to generously cover the leaf. Be sure to submerge and wet all
the leaf. Allow this to sit for ten minutes (no longer, and if your leaf
was crushed it should be for a shorter period, say 7 minutes). Gather
up the edges of the cloth to make a bag around the leaf and lift it out
of the water to strain the leaf. GENTLY squeeze most (but not all) of
the water from the leaf. Discard the water. While Salvinorin is
insoluble in water, it is quite probable that a small amount was lost
in this step, being pulled out along with the resins and oils which it
is soluble in. This is bearable when one considers that 12 grams or
so of gooey resins were just removed from your final product. Place
the leaves in the glass baking dish and dry in the oven at 200
degrees, turning and fluffing the leaf every couple of hours. When it
is COMPLETELY dry, remove it and allow it to reach room
temperature. Verify at this time that the leaf is in fact dry. Remove the
amount you will use for the final product, crush it and set aside
(5x=20g, 10x=10g, 15x=6.5g, 20x=5g). Grind the remaining leaf in the
coffee grinder or blender to a powder. NO PLASTICS should be used
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beyond this point as the acetone will dissolve them. Place the
powdered leaf into one of the mason jars and cover it generously
with acetone. Allow this to sit for 24 hours, stirring it a few times. If
the seal on your mason jar contains plastic(which it probably does),
be sure not to allow the acetone to contact it. One can also simply
lay a piece of glass, wood, or metal on top of the jar to prevent
evaporation. After 24 hours, place the coffee filter in the strainer, and
pour the solution through the filter into the second jar. Squeeze the
remaining acetone out of the leaf powder. Return the leaf to the first
jar, add more acetone and let it sit for 24 more hours. Repeat the
straining and add the second liquid to the first. Discard the leaf.
Pour the acetone solution into the glass baking dish and allow it to
evaporate down to about 8 ounces of solution. Place the crushed
leaf (which you had set aside 2 days ago) into the small evaporating
dish and pour the remaining acetone solution onto it, being sure to
scrape the sides of the baking dish. When this evaporates to the
point that the leaf is just moist and no liquid remains, add a few
tablespoons of acetone to the leaf and use the leaf to wipe off the
resin which will have crusted to the side of your dish. As this is
evaporating be sure to stir it often to prevent more resin from
collecting in any certain area. When this is dry, you will be finished.
Congratulations!
Our own assays of this extract process shows that it produces

basically the same potency as standardized extracts of similar
strengths, but it should be remembered that, unlike standardized
extracts, the quality and potency of the end product is proportional
to the quality and potency of the starting material.
I would like here to strongly discourage against giving extracts

stronger than 5x to people who are inexperienced with salvia. Many
people find the salvia experience quite disturbing and unpleasant. It
is far better to give a person a weaker extract than to have to
physically restrain them or piece them back together
psychologically. Salvia also seems to have rather variable effects
between people, some people being very susceptable and some not.
So it is better to give a small amount at first in order to see how
strongly it affects a person. I, for example, am quite content to take
two hits of 5x, while my wife must take 5-6 in order to obtain the
same effects. So, for her, a 15x extraction might be preferable,
whereas it would probably scare the shit out of me(which it has on
many an occasion). Just try to remember that if you are giving this to
someone else, they are someone else. They are not you, and will not
necessarily react as you do. Be responsible, otherwise this ancient
tool will become illegal as so many others have.
DMT & 5-MeO-DMT
DMT and 5-MeO-DMT are probably the most hallucinogenic drugs

known to man. The great thing about these drugs is the fact that alot
of grass that grows outside (in america yes) contains alot of DMT, or
5-MeO-DMT.
5-MeO-DMT is most commonly obtained by milking the venom from

the Bufo Alvarius Toad. DMT is most commonly extracted from plant
matter.
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Milking 5-MeO-DMT from Toads
Half-a-gram to a gram or more of fresh venom can be collected from

a large adult specimen of B. alvarius. Half of this weight is water and
evaporates upon drying. But, as must as fifteen per cent of the dry
weight is the predominant alkaloid, 5-MEO-DMT. In other words, one
large toad yielding one gram of fresh venom may equal as much as
seventy-five milligrams of potent hallucinogen, psychoactive in man
at doses of three to five milligrams.
Fresh venom can easily be collected without harm to the toad. Use a
flat glass plate or any other smooth non-porous surface at least
twelve inches square. Hold the toad in front of the plate, which is
fixed in a vertical position. In this manner, the venom can be
collected on the glass plate, free of dirt and liquid released when the
toad is handled.
When you are ready to begin, hold the toad firmly with one hand and,
with thumb and forefinger of your other hand, squeeze near the base
of the gland until the venom squirts out of the pores and onto the
glass plate. Use this method to systematically collect the venom
from each of the toad's granular glands: those on the forearm, those
on the tibia and femur of the hind leg and, of course, the parotoids
on the neck. Each gland can be squeezed a second time for an
additional yield of venom if you allow the toad a one hour rest
period. After this, the glands are empty and require four to six weeks
for regeneration.
The venom is viscous and milky-white in color when first squeezed

from the glands. It begins drying within minutes and acquires the
color and texture of rubber cement. Scrape the venom from the glass
plate, dry it thoroughly, and store it in an airtight container until you
are ready to smoke it.
The venom from B. alvarius is extremely hallucinogen when

vaporized by heat and taken into the lungs in the form of smoke. An
adequate dose for a normal adult of average size is a piece of dried
venom about the size of a paper match head. Shave it into thin slices
with a razor blade and put the pieces in a clean one-toke pipe fitted
with a brass screen. Designate this pipe strictly for smoking toad
venom, as the accumulation of residue in the bowl and condensation
of vapors within the stem can yield an unintentional high with other
smoking materials.
Apply a suitable flame and smoke the contents of the bowl in one
complete inhalation. Try to hold the smoke in your lungs as long as
possible as the effectiveness will depend largely on the full dose
being absorbed in one breath.
Extracting DMT from Plants
Method 1)
You need acid "A" (Hydrochloride, vinegar or acetic acid), defatting

solution "B" (Methylene chloride, naphta, acetone), base "C"
(Ammonium hydroxide, lye), kettle, filter or cheesecloth, two
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containers, extraction funnel or turkey baster, pH meter or paper.
Find all this equipment, read and understand how the extraction
works, and find a place you can do it in. Harvest. If you have fresh
grass, place it in freezer overnight. Next morning take it out, let it
soften just a bit and place it in blender or juicer or chopper and blow
it to pieces. If you want to be thorough, you can freeze it again after
first chopping, and chop again next morning. This is done to rupture
the cells of the plant to free as much of the alkaloids as possible.
Dried grass pulverizes (literally!) easily in blender. Dont open the lid
immediately, or some of your finest powder will float away. Note that
drying will lower the alkaloid-content (as a result of plants
metabolism). Add small amounts of water to make the mush/powder
pourable. This is called Mixture. You can now begin.
1. Converting alkaloids to salts.
Add acid ("A") to the Mixture to bring the pH down to 5. Add small
amounts, check pH, add small etc. etc. Alkaloids react with the acid
and form salts. To ensure that large portion of the alkaloids really do
this, give the Mixture time and some heat(less than 50 C); don't boil.
Simmer it overnight with a lid on.
2. Removing unwanted oils.
Place the Mixture in the funnel. Add 10% of the Mixtures volume of
defatting solvent ("B"). Shake. Shake. Shake. Let the Mixture and the
solvent separate; they will form two different layers, and oils and fats
will move to the solvent layer. Separate solvent and Mixture layers,
and throw away the solvent layer (if you don't have a real seperatory
funnel, then shake the Mixture and the solvent in a jar and use a
turkey baster or an eye dropper to siphon off the top layer). Now the
Mixture no longer has solvent-soluable oils or fats.
3. Converting the alkaloid-salts to freebase-form.
Add base ("C") to the Mixture to bring the pH up to 9.5. Add small
amounts, check pH, add small etc. etc. Alkaloid-salts react with the
base and convert into freebase-form, making them non-water
soluable, but soluable into your solvent ("B").
4. Removing the alkaloids from the Mixture.
This is similar to step 2. Add 10% of the Mixtures volume of solvent

("B"). Shake. Shake. Shake hard. Wait until the solvent and Mixture
form different layers. Separate solvent and mixture. Put the solvent
(which now holds some of the alkaloids) in some container to wait.
Repeat this step three more times, and wait a week each time before
separating the solvent and the mixture.
5. Preparing the alkaloids for smoking.
Place the solvents in some shallow container and allow to evaporate.

Do this in either very well ventilated space or outside. No smoking or
open fire near the solvent. This takes several days. Solvent
evaporates, leaving behind orange (color varies) substance, that
may be hard or gummy. Scrape this off the container. You now have
extracted DMT, 5-MeO-DMT and some other alkaloids from the
plants.
6. Add some smokeable material if necessary.
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Add some solvent or alcohol (spirits over 40% of total alcohol in

volume) to this tar, mix in some smokable material (oregano is fine),
and let the liquid evaporate.
DMT & DET Synthesis
DMT Synthesis
STEP I
Using an area of good ventilation or a fume hood, place a 1000 ml

two hole roundbottom flask in an ice bath using the setup in Figure II
(you want a wobble stirrer in the top hole of the flask, and a
separatory dropping funnel into the side entry). Add 400 ml cold
anhydrous ether to the flask, in which 60 g indole is then dissolved,
using the stirrer. To 100 ml anhydrous ether in a separatory funnel
add 50 g oxalyl chloride. Slowly drip this solution into the vigorously
stirred indole solution over a period of 10 to 15 minutes. Continue
stirring 10 minutes longer. Allow the precipitate to settle a few
minutes and decant the liquid. Add anhydrous ether and mix well.
When satisfied as to the purity of the precipitate, leave the golden
precipitate in the flask for the next step, which must follow
immediately. Yield is approximately 100 g.
STEP II
Dimethylamine reacts readily with indole oxalyl chloride. Use about

400 ml ice cold anhydrous ether in the same 2 neck 1000 ml RB flask
used in Step I, with the precipitate in it from Step I. Cool the ice bath
further by using salt and ice. Estimate the weight of the precipitate
and use 100 g indole oxalyl chloride. For this weight of IOC use two
entire 50g containers of diethylamine since it will not keep if the
container seal is broken. Cool the amine in container much below 0
C and dissolve 1 part amine in 3 parts anhydrous cold ether. Amine
may be stored in this solution. For use, warm stock solution to room
temperature and use the appropriate aliquot. Set up the entire
apparatus the same as when adding the oxalyl chloride. Add the
amine solution slowly to the IOC with vigorous stirring. Stir for 1/2
hour after the addition is complete. Vacuum filter the precipitate,
using ether as a wash. It is better to slurry the ether water with the
precipitate before filtering [method used]. Recrystallise from hot
ethanol or from a 50-50 methanol-benzene mixture.
STEP III
Prepare apparatus as in Figure II (1-hole 1000 ml RB flask set in

heating mantle on magnetic stirrer with stir bar in flask, and
condenser inserted into top of flask). Prepare the indole glyoxyl
amide by melting and casting into sticks if ether is to be used as a
solvent. Aluminium foil makes a good mould for casting pieces that
will fit through the condenser.Also a Soxhlet extractor may be used
to add the crystals by slow solution into the ether. Tetrahydrofluran,
if available, dissolves IGA and the compound is added slowly in the
solution form [method used].
To a stirred mixture of 15 g LiAlH4 in 100 ml anhydrous ether (or THF
51 of 64
[used]) slowly add the sticks (or solution [used]) of IGA until 20 g
have been added. Keep the rate of reaction at a reasonable rate or
boil-over may occur [do say!]. Stir and reflux for 90 minutes after the
addition is complete. Cool in an ice bath and begin to cautiously [do
say!] hydrolyse with chips of ice or a cold solution of methanol,
added through the condenser. When there is no further reaction, add
a few ml extra water and allow to settle finally and decant the clear
liquid into an evaporating vessel. Filter the residue and wash several
times with ether-methanol or THF-methanol [used]. Evaporate the
combined extracts and if necessary, seed the heavy syrup with
crystals of DMT. With no seed crystals the product may take days or
even weeks to crystallise [weeks]. This crude product is adequate
for smoking [do say!]. In order to purify DMT, begin after the LiAlH4
has been hydrolysed with methanol. Add 500 ml satd. Na2SO4
solution, mix and filter. Wash with ether or THF and neutralise the
filtrate with 0.1 N HCl. Extract with ether in a separatory funnel and
neutralise the lower layer with 0.1 N NaOh, extracting this solution in
turn with chloroform. The chloroform layer is dried over anhydrous
Na2SO4, concentrated, and from it DMT crystallises on addition of
petroleum ether. The mother liquor can be chromatographed on an
alumina column using benzene-methanol in a 99.8 to 0.2 ratio. [This
last purification is quite difficult.]
DET Synthesis
STEP I
Same as for DMT
STEP II
Use 200g diethylamine per 100g IOC. Diethylamine is less volatile

and poisonous than dimethylamine, so cooling is not necessary, but
the fumes are poisonous. Use the same procedure otherwise. Diethyl
derivative is easier to work with.
STEP III
Use same procedure and equipment. Use 22g indoleglycoxal

diethylamide. The final product is also easier to purify.
NOTES
STEP I
Absolutely anhydrous ether is essential. A container that has been

opened previously is no longer anhydrous. Where cooled reactions
are necessary, remember that moisture is drawn to cold objects, and
cold reagents, when left open or poured, become quite wet. This
applies to the initial reaction on all three steps. A magnetic stirrer
will not work for steps I and II. The vigorous wobble-stirrer has been
found adequate do deliver the violent stirring needed, especially
when several stirring balls are used in conjunction with the
paddle-bar. Sparkless motors must be used around ether.
Oxalyl chloride is very toxic and ventilation or a fume hood must be

used.
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Water vapor hydrolyses product I, producing a gummy dark-red

mass. Proceed to Step II as soon as possible.
STEP II
Refer to notes on anhydrous ether, stirrer, sparkless equipment, and

ventilation in the notes for Step I.
The color of the precipitate lightens somewhat as the amine is added

to the compound I.
The water in the ether is used to dissolve all low-molecular-weight

amines.
STEP III
The crystalline amide is difficult to add to the LiAlH4 mixture. A

Soxhlet extractor may be used to add the amide by placing it
in-between the flask and condenser. Casting it into rods or bars is
one of the simplest methods. Tetrahydrofuran, if available, enables
the indole glycoxal amide to be dissolved and added as a solution; a
procedure which is best and fastest of all. LiAlH4 is a very
dangerous inflammable compound, especially so when in ether
solution. The ether must be absolutely anhydrous or a violent
effervescence occurs, destroying the LiAlH4 and creating a fire
hazard. Contact of LiAlH4-ether solution with any water, damp
materials, or even chemically bound water such as cellulose causes
spontaneous combustion. A safety shield made from auto
windshield material is a must when working with LiAlH4 in any form.
Handling LiAlH4 is done wearing rubber gloves in a dry or inert
atmosphere with a minimum of friction involved. Hydrolysis of the
complex is dangerous and should be done slowly and cautiously,
using an ice-bath to cool the mixture.
Difficulty in producing crystals the first time should cause no

concern since many organics need seed crystals to crystallize. The
syrup may be used for some purposes but be sure to save some
seed crystals if you should happen to get some.
KETAMINE
Ketamine (Special K) is a drug that is most commonly used on

Animals as a Local Anasthetic. Usually whenever a dog is going to
get it's tail docked (cut off), they give the dog Ketamine inorder to
keep the pain away..
Ketamine also acts as a Local Anasthetic in humans. I have heard

stories about people going swimming while on Ketamine, and since
the water is so comfortable, they just forget to breath (that's just
what I have heard, it may be a myth).
Ketamine Manufacture from Scratch
1. o-chlorobenzoic acid. Anthranilic acid 13,7g
HClconc. (d=1,19)
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NaNO2 8g
CuCl 10g
13,7g anthranilic acid is stirred in a glass beaker in 40mls water,

28mls HCl and 20g ice. With constant stirring and cooling there's
added 8g NaNO2 in 40mls water. Thus obtained clear solution of
diazonium salt is very slowly added with stirring into a soln. of 10g
CuCl in 25g HCl conc. A vigorous evolution of nitrogen is observed.
When the rxn ends, the ppt is filtered, washed with cold water and
reprecipitated from aq. Na2CO3. The product represents fine crystals
and melts at 140-141 C.
O-bromobenzoic acid can bee obtained in an analogous manner,

substituting CuCl for CuBr.
2. o-chlorobenzonitrile. Preparation A
(RCOO)2Zn + Pb(CNS)2 = 2RCN + ZnS + PbS + 2CO2
The best results are obtained when a zinc salt is employed instead of
free acid. This rxn is unsuitable for amino-, nitro- and oxy- acids, but
can bee used for bromo- and chlorobenzoic acids.
To a hot soln of 50g NaOH in 400mls water there's added 195g

o-chlorobenzoic acid. Carefully neutralize with NH3 or NaHCO3 and
add with heating 105g (~5% excess) ZnSO4 in 400mls water. The
precipitated salt is dried for prolonged time at 200 C and mixed
intimately with 205g Pb(SCN)2. The mixture is coffeeground and
dried at 120-140 C for a prolonged time, then heated on open flame -
the mixture melts and gases are evolved.
Distilled nitrile is treated with NH4OH, steam-distilled and salted out.

Yield 137g (80%), mp=43-46 C, bp=232 C. The rxn usually takes place
within 30-60 mins, but the duration of dryings makes the method
quite time-consuming.
Preparation B.
This one doesn't require a prolonged drying. Sulfaminic acid is dirt

cheap and can bee acquired without causing any suspicion.
o-bromo-benzonitrile.
50g o-Br-benzamide and 35g (25g=theory) sulfaminic(sulfamic) acid

is thoroughly mixed and heated in a Wurtz flask. At 250-255 C
distillation begins, which is over at 285-295 C (takes approx. 1,5-2
hrs). The collected product is redistilled, yield 36g (80% of theory).
mp = 53-57o, bp = 251-253o
As I found recently, this can bee simplified yet more, by forming

benzamides in situ from the corresponding acid and urea..but since
this is a very good route to subst'd benzaldehydes from benzoic
acids, I'll post it later separately.
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3.Cyclopentanone.
100g adipinic(adipic) acid and 10g Ba(OH)2 is intimately mixed and

placed into a flask with a thermometer. The rxn is heated to 280 C,
the mixture initially melts and then the distillation takes place, which
lasts about 1-2 hrs. The hot distillate is saturated with NaCl, the
upper layer is decanted and distilled, collecting the fraction boiling
at 128-130 C. Dry with MgSO4.
Yield 51g (89% of theory).
Notes:
- Ca(OH)2 may bee substituted for Ba(OH)2 without much loss in the
yield.
- if one is to use pre-made Ca or Ba adipinate, no temp control is

necessary.
4. Aluminium isopropoxide.
Bp = 130-140?C at 7mmHg; mp = 118?C
Into a 250ml RBF equipped with an efficient reflux condenser there's

added 6g Al foil, 70mls (51mls in theory) abs. IPA (commercial
reagent grade IPA was used without any drying) and 0,1g HgSO4.
The mixture is heated.
In the beginning of boiling 0,5mls CCl4 (CAREFUL! Extremely toxic!)

and heating continued until H2 evolution starts, when it is stopped,
sometimes even cooling's needed. After the rxn subsides, heating is
continued until almost full dissolution of Al (5-7 hrs). The obtained
solution is immediately used as is in the following preparation.
5. Cyclopentanol.
Into a 250ml RBF equipped with a 15cm Vigreux column and

distilling condenser there's added 53mls (50g) cyclopentanone in
50mls IPA and the soln from the previous prep'n, which contains
about 40g Al isopropoxide. The rxn is gently heated, which causes
acetone with some water to distill off. The distillation is ended when
the temp of the vapors rises to ~85 C.
The ppt inside the flask is carefully decomposed with 50% H2SO4
until acidic and saturated with NaCl. The upper layer is decanted and
distilled, collecting the fraction boiling at 137-140 C. Drying with
MgSO4.
Yield 47g (94%)
6. Cyclopentylbromide.
In a flask there's mixed 47mls (45g) cyclopentanol and 60mls (90g)

48% aq. HBr. 10g NaSO4 is added. The rxn is left for 24hrs with
vigorous stirring. After that it's diluted with 200mls water and the
lower organic phase is separated and washed with water twice.
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Distill, collecting the fraction between 137-138 C. Dryed with MgSO4.
Yield = 58g (74%)
7. Cyclopentyl magnesium bromide.
Into a 250mls three-necked flask equipped with a reflux condenser,

addition funnel and inert gas inlet there's placed 50mls THF (kept
over KOH, prior to the rxn 150mls refluxed over 30g CaO for 6hrs
and distilled). 9g of fine Mg turnings is added followed by some
iodine crystals. The apparatus is flushed with argon and a gentle
stream of gas is left flowing in. Magnetic stirring is commenced. The
mixture instantly beecomes cloudy from MgI. From the addition
funnel there's dripped 55g (40mls) cyclopentyl bromide in 100mls
THF so that the soln boils smoothly. The rxn is usually over in an
hour, it is accompanied by precipitation of a white jelly-like mass,
and at the bottom there maybee left some unreacted Mg as a
dark-grey powder.
Usage of THF instead of ether is preferred since the rxn in it

proceeds better and faster (THF is a more specific solvent for
Grignards) , the yield is better as well. Beesides, THF can bee dried
with CaO, while for ether,sodium metal is usually employed.
Notes on the possible usage of Zn-organics:
".. Nitriles are not bad as electrophiles, so it is possible that despite

smaller reactivity of ZnR2 compounds, they would work equally well
here - esp. if the rxn conditions are made harsher (gentle reflux
instead of RT?).
What one CAN say for sure-is that the rxn with ZnR2 will go just fine
if one is to use o-chlorobenzoyl chloride instead of benzonitrile.
Haloanhydrides generally are the best species for coupling with
metalloorganics.
Bis-dicyclopentyl zinc is conveniently made from the corresponding

bromide, no need to make iodide here. And o-chlorobenzoyl chloride
can bee easily prepared from o-chlorobenzoic acid (obtained in Step
1) and PCl5 or some such."
8. (O-chlorophenyl)-cyclopentylketone.
To the thus obtained Grignard soln there's added 48g

o-chlorobenzonitrile and the mixture is stirred for 3 days at RT. It is
then poured into a mixture of ice/NH4Cl, with addition of some conc.
aq. NH3 and left at ambient temp until all ice melts. The ketone
partially floats, partially goes to the bottom. It's extracted with
benzene.
The yields fluctuate, but rarely drop beelow 55%.
9. alpha-bromo-(o-chlorophenyl)-cyclopentyl ketone.
40g ketone is dissolved in 70mls CCl4 and with cooling in snow it is

added into a soln of 48g dioxane dibromide in 50mls dioxane, and
stirred at RT for 30mins. Then 30mls water are added and the soln is
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washed with NaHCO3 aq. until neutral. This may lead to some
preciptation of the bromoketone, which stays in CCl4. The solvent is
removed, giving 47g (85%) of the bromoketone.
10. (1-hydroxy-cyclopentyl)-(o-chlorophenyl)-N-methylketimine.
45g of the above bromoketone is dissolved in 50mls benzene, add

therein 50mls (17g(=23mls) is required for neutralization of HBr, but a
2x excess is used). The soln is then saturated with 5g methylamine,
obtained by dripping a saturated soln of 15g MeNH2*HCl onto 10g
NaOH, dried thru NaOH. The rxn is left for 1 day and the solvents are
removed under aspirator vacuum, giving 30g (80%) of
methylketimine.
11. Ketamine.
10g of methylketimine is dissolved in 100mls undecane and boiled at

195 C for 3-4hrs. Ketamine is extracted with 20% HCl. Acidic extract
is basified and extracted with DCM. Solvent is removed giving the
product as an oil that quickly crystallizes. It can bee purified by
recrystallization from pentane/ether or hexane/ether.
The yields are close to quantitative.
Ketamine Synthesis
1-Hydroxycyclopentyl-(o-chlorophenyl)-ketone N-methylimine To the

grignard reagent prepared from 119.0 g of cyclopentyl bromide and
19.4 g of magnesium is added 55.2 g of o-chlorobenzonitrile. The
reaction mixture is stirred for three days and thereafter hydrolyzed in
the usual manner. From the hydrolysis there is obtained
o-chlorophenylcyclopentylketone, bp 96-97?C (0.3 mmHg). To 21.0 g
of the ketone is added 10.0 g of bromine in 80 ml of CCl4.
1-bromocyclopentyl-(o-chlorophenyl)-ketone, bp 111-114?C (0.1
mmHg) is isolated in the usual manner. Since it is unstable, it must
be used immediately. The bromoketone (29.0g) is dissolved in 50 ml
of liquid methylamine freebase. After one hour, the excess liquid
methylamine is allowed to evaporate. The organic residue is
dissolved in pentane, and upon evaporation of the solvent,
1-hydroxy-cyclopentyl-(o-chlorophenyl)-ketone N-methylimine is
isolated, mp 62?C.
2-Methylamino-2-(o-chlorophenyl)-cyclohexanone (Ketamine)
1-hydroxycyclopentyl-(o-chlorophenyl)-ketone N-methylimine (2.0 g)
is dissolved in 15 ml of decalin and refluxed for 2.5 h. After
evaporation of the decalin under reduced pressure, the residue is
extracted with dilute hydrochloric acid, the solution treated with
decolorizing charcoal, and the resulting acidic solution is made
basic. The liberated product, 2-methylamino-
2-(o-chlorophenyl)-cyclohexanone (Ketamine), after recrystallization
from pentane-ether, has a mp of 92-93?C. The hydrochloride has a
mp of 262-263?C.
DXM
DXM is probably the most abused over the counter drug that is sold.
Kids all over the world are going to their local store, and stealing
57 of 64
DXM containing pills, and eating them by the dozen to get high, and
hallucinate. It is much smarter to extract the DXM out of these pills in
order to assure you that you are not ingesting different sorts of
drugs that may kill you, or make you very sick
The following will explain to you in detail how to extract DXM from
over the counter pills, that way you can get as high as you want
without worrying. Oh, and by the way, DXM is 100% Legal in the
United States!
DXM Coricidin Extraction
I - Overview:
The procedure uses a double wash-filtration, followed by a slow boil

to evaporate and purify the final product. Justification for this
methodology is in parts IV and V.
II - Materials:
* 16 Coricidin Cough and Cold pills

* Filtration device; a funnel and jar will work- the larger the funnel,
the better
* Filter Papers which fit the funnel, the larger the better
* Stirring rod
* 750mL Flask (or Pyrex bowl)
* 500mL (or heat-safe Pyrex bowl)
* Thermometer accurate to 1 degree Celsius
* Hot Plate or heating device (an electric stove will work)
* Straight Razor Blade
* Boiling Flask Setup (described below)
* Gelcaps or Orange Juice for administration after the Procedure
Setting up your Boiling Flask Apparatus:
In order to regulate the temperature of the boiling water, a special

setup will be used to slow the speed at which the temperature raises.
As with melting chocolate, simply set a half-filled bowl of waterlarger
than your 500mL flask on the heating device. Place your 500mL flask
into this water, making sure that the water level in the larger bowl
isn't high enough to cause problems. This will allow for slow boiling,
so that the DXM will crystallize properly. Since this slows the
heating, it will also be easier to monitor and regulate the
temperature, ensuring that the heat will not reach a harmful level.
III - Methodology:
1. Remove pill coating, as described by lucidity ["I wet each pill and
rubbed as much of the red coating off as I could without losing any
of the inside"]
2. Crush pills to a fine powder
3. Add powder to 600mL water (at 10C) using the 750mL
flask, stir
4. Let mixture settle for 60-90 seconds, stir again (repeat this step
two more times, for a total of 4 stirrings)
5. Let mixture settle for ~3 minutes
6. Decant most of water into filtration device, leaving 100~200mL
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water and most of the residue in the flask.

7. After the water filters through, remove the filter paper and set it
aside. Put a new filter paper into the filtration device.
8. Filter remainder of mixture. This may take a while (up to 2 hours)
depending on what size filter you use.
9. After the filtering is done, remove and set aside this filter paper,
too.
10. Dispose of the filtrate (water) and wash your 750mL flask.
11. Soak the used filter papers (with residue) in 600mL water (at
25C) using the 750mL flask again, stir until the residue
precipitates and rests at the bottom of the flask.
12. Remove the filter papers from the flask and dispose of them. Stir,
and let settle.
13. Decant most of water into filtration device, leaving 100~200mL
water and most of the residue in the flask.
14. After the water filters through, remove the filter paper and set it
aside. Put a new filter paper into the filtration device.
15. Filter remainder of mixture. Again, this may take up to 2 hours
depending on your filter size.
16. After the filtering is done, remove and set aside this filter paper.
17. Dispose of filtrate (water)
18. Soak the second set of used filter papers (with residue) in 300mL
water (at ~65C) using your 500mL flask
19. Stir until residue precipitates to bottom of flask. Remove and
dispose of filter papers.
20. Stir, and heat slowly (do not use boiling stones, as this will
impede crystal formation in step 21) in the boiling flask setup
discussed earlier. Using the thermometer, slowly bring the water to
105 C. Continue stirring until the water boils. Do NOT allow
the temperature to exceed 105 C. This may harm the DXM.
21. As the water boils off, DXM HBr will crystallize at the bottom of
the flask. It should be pink to light brown to white in color, and have
either an amorphous or small rectangular (.2cm x .1cm) lattice.
22. Using the razor, scrape the crystals from the bottom of the flask.
This is your final product.
IV - The Logic:
Boiling cannot be used to extract the DXM after the first dissolution,
as Chlorpheniramine is present in this water. Thus, the second
dissolution-filtration was added, as a washing step, to remove any of
the antihistamine that may have remained following the first
filtration. The second wash and filtration having been completed, it
is now relatively safe to boil off the water, leaving pure DXM crystals.
The special boiling apparatus is used to ensure that the heating
takes place at the correct rate. The main problem with the initially
suggested Coricidin extraction was the difficulty in removing the
DXM residue from the filter paper- coffee filter. This procedure
solves that, and also gives a greater yield of DXM while lowering the
amount of Chlorpheniramine in the final product.
V - Other Notes:
The varying temperatures of the water used have a reason. The first
amount of water is at 10C, about the temperature initially suggested
by Delysid Dreamer. This will allow for near-full removal of
Chlorpheniramine while only dissolving ~2% of the DXM. The second
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amount is at 25C, room temperature, to ensure complete dissolution

of the intended solute. The third batch is at around 65C, and since
this batch will be evaporated and not filtered, there is no reason to
worry about dissolution loss of DXM. It is this high to aid in the slow
boiling of the water- boiling from 25C would be more
time-consuming and is unnecessary.
If you desire to test the product for Chlorpheniramine Maleate, do so

AFTER you have completed step 19. Thoric and I are working on a
comparative-pH testing method [proven unlikely to work as of
today]. Other suggestions are really fucking welcome.
Simplified Acid/Base Extraction of DXM
Materials needed:
* Clear Ammonia (Non-Sudsy)

* Naptha (Ronsonol, Zippo, or Red Devil Cigarette Lighter Fluid)
* Gallon-size Ziploc Baggies
* Cough Syrup containing only DXM or DXM/Guafenisin
* Scissors
* Pin or needle
* A 2-liter jug or gallon jug with lid
* Microwaveable bowl or glass pan for stove-boiling
* Lemon Juice (fresh squeezed, or ReaLemon, or one of those plastic
lemons you find in the produce section) or Countrytime lemonade
mix with SUGAR, not aspartame.
* Toothbrush and toothpaste
Procedure:
Determine how much Cough Syrup to buy. Assume you will lose
about 10% of the DXM. Wal-Mart sells 8oz Equate TussinDM for
$2.49, which is the best deal I've found. They also sell everything
else you need, so its the ideal place to obtain materials. There are
475mg of DXM in one 8oz bottle of TussinDM.
Do not extract more DXM than you will be taking that day unless you
want to trip on DXO. The product will gradually turn into DXO if left
overnight or for a period of many hours. You might like the DXO trip,
but I dont.
Pour cough syrup into your gallon jug or 2-liter. Add an equal
ammount of ammonia. Shake for 30 seconds. Add Naptha equivalent
to about 10% of the volume of cough syrup/ammonia. These
measurements dont have to be exact, the only thing I would advise
is not to use too much ammonia (no more than an equal amount to
the cough syrup) if you are using a syrup with guafenisin. An excess
of ammonia will turn the guafenisin into a slightly oily layer, which
will take a few hours to separate, rather than a few minutes. It sucks
when this happens. Shake your ammonia/naptha/DXM for at least 4-5
minutes. Shaking it longer wont hurt. Each molecule of DXM must
touch ammonia, then naptha, in order to be extracted. Each that
doesnt will be lost.
Pour the mixture into a ziploc baggie and hang it up on a nail by one
of the top corners. You will see your mixture begin to separate and
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should be fully separated in just a couple of minutes.

Ammonia/Guafenisin/coloring will be on bottom, a clear layer of
naptha containing your DXM freebase on top. You should see a
perfectly clear line of separation without bubbles. If there is a bubbly
layer in the middle after 5 minutes, youve gotten oily guafenisin and
youll just have to wait it out. Ive noticed this happening more with
certain brands of ammonia, but the Wal-Mart Equate brand ammonia
always works great for me.
Rinse out your shaker jug very well, youre going to need it again in a
minute.
When you have a clear separation, you're going to snip a SMALL

hole in the bottom corner of the baggie, and drain out all the red
stuff on the bottom. Be sure to do this in a well-ventilated area,
outside is best. Otherwise go into a bathroom and drain it down the
sink, holding the baggie close to the drain, with the tap running. As
you see the naptha/DXM layer getting close to the hole, get your jug
ready. Let a tiny bit of the naptha out the hole, to be SURE youre not
getting any ammonia in your final product, then drain the rest into
your jug.
If you are using a colored 2-liter bottle, Id suggest draining the

naptha into a clear or white bowl first. Inspect it for any reddish
bubbles. If youre using a gallon water jug, youll be able to spot them
in the jug. If you see any, it means you got ammonia in your product.
AMMONIA IS TOXIC. You must remove it before proceeding with the
next step. Do this by pouring your naptha into another baggie, hold
by a top corner. Youll see the red drops settle to the bottom corner.
Prick the corner with a pin and let the ammonia drop out. Then
return the product to your cleanly rinsed jug.
At this point you can either evaporate the naptha using a blowdryer,
in a glass pan or bowl to produce DXM freebase powder, or proceed
with the instructions below to produce DXM citrate, which I
recommend over the freebase form. Neither form contains bromide,
making both a much healthier form of DXM than DXM HBR.
Add an amount of lemon juice equal to the ammount of naptha, or 3

oz, whichever is more. If you are using freshly squeezed, strain the
pulp. Shake the lemon juice/naptha for 5 minutes or so. Pour into a
ziploc baggie. Hang by a corner. This will take a while to separate, at
least an hour.**
**Alternative** Use countrytime lemonade mix, the kind WITH sugar,

not aspartame. The first 3 ingredients will be sugar, fructose, citric
acid. This method works fine, and separates instantly, cutting your
extraction time from over an hour to about 20 minutes. Use about 3
tablespoons of mix to 4 oz of water, a much stronger mixture than if
you were actually making lemonade to drink. The problem with this
method is that if you dont use a strong enough mixture, you will
recover alot less DXM than with lemon juice. Dont worry about it
being too strong to drink. It tastes pretty bad, but its actually alot
better than the lemon juice product. Either way, you're only drinking
a couple of ounces, so it beats chugging syrup anyday. Be sure not
to get the Countrytime with aspartame. If you are not used to
consuming aspartame, using this much at once may cause a nasty
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headache, which may ruin your trip. The headache has been known
to last for 2-3 days.
When your product has separated, your DXM is now in the bottom
layer, snip the corner of the baggie and allow your product to drain
into a microwave safe bowl or glass pan for boiling on the stove.
Don't lose too much product worrying about the naptha layer getting
into it, try not to get any naptha, but if you end up with a drop or two
in there don't worry. When you boil your final product, the naptha
will immediately rise to the top and evaporate cleanly. Boil the lemon
juice/DXM for about 5 minutes, in the microwave or on the stovetop.
Be careful microwaving, as the product tends to boil up and over like
noodles on a stove do. Make sure your bowl is large enough that you
dont lose half your lemon juice over the side. You'll be extremely
pissed if this happens. I suggest a bowl larger then your normal
sized cereal bowl, or a very tall microwaveable glass.
Chill the lemon juice, theres less of a gag reflex that way. Have
toothbrush and toothpaste handy, this stuff tastes like ass. Effects
kick in in about 30 minutes, peak around 2-2.5 hours. Some feel this
is a far cleaner and more spiritual trip than using syrup or powder.
Converting DXM into DXO
Theory:
Where do I start on this one? The theory behind the whole situation
is converting the acid-salt Dextromethorphan HydroChloride (or
HydroBromide) to Dextorphan HCl (or HBr) (for the sake of space, I
will just use HCl as the acid from now on.). Its really much more
complicated in theory than in practice. DXM looks a little something
like this: 3-methoxy-17-methyl-(9alpha,13alpha,14alpha)-morphinan
(interesting note: "morphinan" look familar? yep its good ole mr.
morphine. DXM is actually a morphine analog.)
Anyways, the removal of the 17-methyl group will give you the much
simpler molecule of DXO. Whenever I first saw the DXM molecule i
thought that this simple synthesis would be possible. I wasn't sure
whether a strong acid would destory the molecule completely or just
remove the methyl group. Complicated acid bonds are the cause of
this, and I would explain these, but they are way over my head.
Summing it all up: Basically, using a strong acid such as HCl

(hydrogen chloride) will remove the 17-methyl group, causing the
DXM to become DXO.
Practice:
The applied chemistry of it all is easy if you have access to some

sort of laboratory. Really, all you need is oven safe, acid resistant
glassware. Pretty much any Pyrex glassware that you can buy at the
grocery store (yes, the glass measuring cups) are acid-resistant,
although they might not be oven proof. You'll have to come up with
your own answer on this one. Seeing as I am in the gifted program, a
straight A student, and I have three lab sciences this year (organic
chem 2, AP chem 4, Physics 3), all i had to do was say that i needed
a little home enrichment and boom, i have a chemistry set and an
62 of 64
account with Frey scientific to order whatever the hell kinda

chemicals i need. So basically I have a sweet little set up (sorry to
brag, but I am proud). Ok, I am pretty sure that you will be able to
come up with this stuff so I will just continue.
Equipment:
A nice little chem set with test tubes, a graduated cylinder, and a
balance. it'd be nice to have a vacuum hand pump too.
Procedure:
Using Pure USP grade powder
Supplies:
* Test Tube
* 6M HCl (Hydrochloric Acid)
* 2 acid resistant rubber stoppers (1 with a hole for vacuum pump
mating)
* vacuum hand pump
Conditions:
* Temperature - ~25 deg C (room temp)

* Pressure - ~1 atm
Steps:
1. Pour 1 gram of USP grade DXM HBr powder into a test tube.
2. Using 6M HCl, pour 2 ml SLOWLY down into the test-tube with the
powder in it.
3. let sit for 2 min, then put the stopper on and proceed to shake
vigorously.
4. after 5 min of shaking, stop, switch stoppers, mate the vacuum
pump and the stopper, then place the test tube under vacuum, and
let sit until ALL of the liquid is gone.
Product:
Excess HCl will evaporate out, leaving mostly Dextrorphan HBr (and
some Dextorphan HCl) and just a little Dextromethorphan HBr. The
ratio might be as much as 1:10,000 or as little as 1:1,000,000. If the
reduction is carried out properly, there should not be any DXM HBr
left. The methyl group reaction will knock that H right out of HCl and
HBr (which means hydrogen gas), possible leaving trace amounts of
the halides methyl bromide and methyl chloride. As in any Alkyl
reaction like this, the products are not too good for you to be taken
in excess, but for there to actually be enough to hurt you, you would
have to consume well over 10 grams, which would kill you anyways.
So by using a small amount of your finished product, you can get a
gauge on how much is enough, although I strictly advise against
using any drug named here. Just want to let you know that this
paper is written strictly for research purposes and for education. If
all your reagents are pure, your product should be of very high
quality.
63 of 64
CONCLUSION
There you have it. You now have alot of the basic knowledge
involved with making some illegal (or legal) drugs. Go down to your
basement, and set up a lab! You know you want to.
You will notice that one of the things that I did not put here is where
to buy chemicals, where to buy laboratory glass, etc. Well, I'm sorry,
but that's something that you are going to have to do yourself. I have
many Chemical, and Lab Glass sources, but I cannot risk giving you
that information since these companies would be almost instantly hit
up for chemicals that are watched. Whenever there are too many
suspicious purchases, the company usually begins going through
screening processes, that way they can keep track of who is buying
these precursor chemicals.
Remember that one can easily build a makeshift Lab by going to the
local supermarket, and buying different types of Pyrex Glassware,
etc. A hotplate, thermometer, etc. Everyone who builds a lab always
has to remember that almost everything is measured in ML, so Pyrex
Cups are always a good thing for you to have.
Probably the greatest thing about having all this knowledge is the
fact that you now have the know-how to produce many drugs. If your
drug lab is for personal use, then at least you can assure yourself
how pure your product is, etc. If your drug lab is for manufacturing
drugs to sell, well then I guess you'll be a rich person. Remember
always to keep your mouth shut about your lab. Telling people about
your lab will get you busted by the cops, and that is the last thing
that you ever want.
Remember to use common sense when it comes to the safety

aspects of mixing chemicals. Always keep a bucket of water nearby,
and a Bucket of Sand.
Keep an eye out for more text files that I am writing. The next text file
will be mainly about administering certain drugs. For example: How
to shoot heroin, how to freebase cocaine, etc.
So, there you go. Produce as much dope as you want, and sell it to
your friends, become a rich dope dealer.
Go on run, run you Fucking lunatics!

-Captain Rhodes.
-Day of the Dead
Tony B Stanforda's cosy corner
64 of 64

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The Clandestine Chemist's Notebook

war. Every time a parent finds this sort of information under a

So, enjoy your reading. This is an education process. Knowledge

1. Methamphetamine Crystal Meth, Speed

* Birch Reduction Methamphetamine #1

First chapter of the book; How to Make Methamphetamine.

There are two different types of Methods described here. #1 is the

Here are the Recipes:

Birch Reduction Methamphetamine #1

* 750 pills containing 60mg psuedoephedrine (preferably Sudafed 24

* 5 or 6 regular size mason jars.

1. CRUSH UP ALL YOUR PILLS (coffee grinder, blender), AND PUT

Birch Reduction Methamphetamine #2

* 2 Liter Bottle (with cap)

* 1 Liter Bottle (get 2 caps for it)

* 200 60mg Pseudophedrine HCL pills (Actifed, Sudafed, Suphedrine,

This reaction is brought about the same as every other push/pull

What you will need:

* Flask with nipple connection

List of chemicals and materials:

* Diluted HCl - also called Muriatic acid - can be obtained from

it can't be the marked one).

Preparing Ethyl Ether:

WARNING: Ethyl Ether is very flammable and is heavier than air. Do

Ethyl ether is very pungent. Even a small evaporated amount is quite

Ephedrine & or P-Ephedrine:

this on the stove or nuke it in the microwave (be careful of

If you microwave it, I suggest no more than 5-10s at one time. If it

First Batch: 120mg ephedrine HClEstimated: 300mg (100% of

Now, Making Methamphetamine out of ephedrine by reducing it with

* Alot of matchbooks (the kind with the striking pad)

*Optional (toluene and HCI gas)

Making Red Phosphorus:

The striking pad on books of matches is about 50% red phosphorus.

Making Hydroiodic Acid:

This is made by mixing iodine and red phosphorus. When making

Now, Making Methamphetamine:

To do the reaction, a 1000 ml round bottom flask is filled with 150

grams of ephedrine. Also added to the flask are 40 grams of red

Getting Red Phosphorus From Matchbooks

Obtaining Red Phosphorus

* 5 Gallon Bucket Drill (1/2" chuck)

Extracting Red Phosphorus from Matchbooks:

1. Rip off matchbook covers. Line up as many matchbook covers as

Cleaning Matchbook Red Phosphorus:

Sulfuric/hydrochloric acid wash: (This can be done as 2 different

Screening: Put the RP in a stainless steel screen or plastic/steel

Washing order: The order does not matter as long as the RP is

Prefiring Red Phosphorus

Expecting to yield about 250mg per box. They're hoping to end up

Methcathinone is probably the simplest illegal drug that you can

Methcathinone is related to Methamphetamine. It is a speedy party

* KMnO4 [Potassium Permanganate] - This is sold at 'Sears' in a blue

* Strainer - The smaller the holes the better

You must now prepare your KMnO4 (Potassium Permanganate)

You must now add 100mL of Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol. This is

Your mixture should now be at about room temperature; it's time to

You need to adjust the pH to about 5 to 6.5. To do this, use a little