Vasadhee Saghan Apaar Anoop Raamadhaas Pur
Vasadhee Saghan Apaar Anoop Raamadhaas Pur
Vasadhee Saghan Apaar Anoop Raamadhaas Pur
Title_2
INTRODUCTION:
The Heritage Walk is a guided tour deep inside the narrow lanes and bye- lanes of
the 400 years old city of Amritsar. One gets to see Katras, Akharas, Bungas, Havelis
and Hattis- the vocabulary of traditional town planning and architecture. The walk
takes you back in time as you witness traditional trades and crafts being practised
in the same place and in the same manner, as has been done for centuries. It is,
however, the famous intricately carved wooden facades that will take your breath
away.
This walk is an opportunity to feel part of this beautiful, sacred, vibrating,
Guru Di Nagari.
Welcome to Ramdaspur. Welcome to Amritsar.
HISTORY OF AMRITSAR
Amritsar was founded by Sri Guru Ramdass, the fourth guru of the Sikhs in about
1574 A.D. Before the city was founded, the area was covered with thick forests and
had several lakes. To start the city the Guru invited 52 traders from different sects
belonging to nearby places like Patti and Kasur to settle here. These families started
the first 32 shops in the city which still stand in the street called Batisi Hatta (32
shops) The Guru himself shifted to live among them in the city which came to be
called Ramdaspur and has been eulogised in the Guru Granth Sahib.
The construction of Amrit Sarovar from which the city gets its present name was
also started by Sri Guru Ramdass. His sucessor, Sri Guru Arjan Dev, completed the
project and located the Harmandir Sahib in its midst. Later, when Guru Arjan Dev
completed the writing of the Holy Granth Sahib a copy of Guru Granth Sahib was
ceremonially installed in Harmandir Sahib. Baba Buddha Sahib was appointed the
Front Cover first Granthi.
Woodwork After the last Guru Sri Gobind Singh Baba Banda Bahadur a Sikh from Nanded came
to Punjab and inflicted several crushing defeats on the Imperial Mughal forces. This
“….. there were other substantial wooden elements notably doorways, with led to the rise of the Sikh power and the rise of several “jathas or bands” called Misls.
windows above and also over-hanging balconies, the whole providing a 12 Misls of the Sikh confederacy controlled Punjab and from time to time attempted
to expand their territory and resources. 4 of these Misl, namely; the Ahulwalia Misl,
very artistic wooden façade. The doorways were generally framed with Ramgarhia Misl, KanhiyaMisl and Bhangi Misl controlled Amritsar from time to time.
fanciful and elegantly carved design.” Each of them contributed to the City of Amritsar.
K. C. Aryan, “Folk Paintings, Metalware, Woodwork, Ivories” in
Homage to Amritsar, Marg, 1976-77, XXX [3], pp. 65-71
Published by:
Punjab Heritage and Tourism Promotion Board
Archives Bhawan, Plot 3, Sector 38-A, Chandigarh 160036
Tel.: 0172-2625950; Fax: 0172-2625953; Email: phtpb123@gmail.com
www.punjabtourism.gov.in
Concept: Debashish Nayak, Advisor PHTPB
Background Research: Surinder Kochhar
Text Editing: Geetika Kalha
Layout Design: Nilesh Dave, STATUS INC
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Before Maharaja Ranjit Singh, outer Amritsar was controlled by
the Bhangi misl who built the Gobindgarh Fort. They were
crushed by Maharaja Ranjit Singh early in his career. Part of
Amritsar was controlled by the Khanhiya-Misl with whom
Maharaja Ranjit Singh formed a matrimonial alliance by
marrying Jai Singh infant granddaughter Mahtab Kaur when
he was 6 years old himself.
The Ahluwalia Misl controlled a large part of the city. Jassa Singh
Ahluwalia was its most prominent leader. He defeated the
Afghan Ahmed Shah Abdali in the battle of Amritsar in 1765.
He was at one time the richest and most powerful misaldars. Maharaja Ranjit Singh
The Misl built a Fort in the city and had full control, till Maharaja (1780-1839)
Ranjit Singh forced them to accept his leadership.
The Ramgarhia Misl controlled the rest of Amritsar and was one of the most powerful
misls. Jassa Singh Ramgarhia was the first to fortify Amritsar. He surrounded the place
with a huge mud wall calling it Ram Navami or Fort of God. It was attacked by the
imperial Mughal forces but it was rebuilt by Jassa Singh who renamed the place as
Ramgarh from which his misl took its name; Ramghariha. He was a ferocious military
leader and even attacked the Red Fort in New Delhi and made away with 4 guns and
the endowment slab on which the Mughals were crowned and placed it within the
Golden Temple Complex. During the Misal period Barracks, Bungas, Forts and Havelis
were constructed as required, around the Golden Temple for use of the Sikh Army.
Maharaja Ranjit Singh brought all the Misls under his control and took over full
control of Amritsar by 1802 A.D. It was he who fortified the Gobind Garh Fort on
modern lines. He also built the Ram Bagh palace and garden on Mughal lines and
covered the Harmandir Sahib in Gold and made it look as we see it today. Maharaja
Ranjit Singh also built a huge wall with 12 gates around the city of Amritsar. Only
one gate “ The Ram Bagh Gate” stands till day.
The British took over Amritsar in 1840 A.D. The years under the British rule saw the
demolition of the outer walls of the city and rebuilding of gates, the construction of
Town Hall from where they administered the city of Amritsar. The British also renamed
the Ram Bagh garden as Company Bagh. Current building of the Railway Station,
the post office and the Saragarhi Gurdwara Memorial were all erected during the
British era.
The best example of Indo-British architecture however, is the Khalsa College,
designed by the famous architect Ram Singh, a resident of Cheel Mandi, Amritsar.
His works include the Darbar Hall of Queen Victoria at Osborne House, UK the Darbar
Hall of Mysore and Kapurthala, Chiefs College at Lahore and several other
outstanding examples of Indo-
British Architecture. He was
the pioneer in taking the
exquisite Pinjara Wood work
and wooden carvings of
Amritsar and making them
popular all over the world.
The Heritage Walk show cases
some exquisite wood work
and traditional architecture.
The city is the cultural capital
of Punjab today.
The daily Route of Maharaja Ranjit Singh between Rambagh and Harmindar Sahib
through Darshani Deori Baba Buddha places a tikka on the forehead of Guru Arjan Dev, pronouncing him the fifth Guru.
Guru Ramdas is seated on the right. Source: Wikipedia
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HERITAGE WALK
STARTING POINT •
PARKING
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1 GURDWARA
TOWN HALL SARAGARHI
AMRITSAR
UDASIN ASHRAM 5
B AKHARA SANGALWALA
CHOWRASTI 10
ATARI
13 11 TAKSAL
CHOWK
CRAWLING STREET:
FLOGGING BOOTH THAKURDWARA RAI Vasadhee Saghan Apaar Anoop Raamadhaas Pur ||
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TOWN HALL
PARKING
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1 TOWN HALL
Built by the British in 1866, the historic Town Hall is the centre of saghan apar anoop Ramdaspur,– “Amritsar is thriving, flourishing and
Amritsar’s local administration. When the British gained control of beautiful.”The Town Hall’s importance echoed in all facets of daily life during
Amritsar in 1849 one of their first actions was to demolish the robust the British Raj. It continues to wield a significant presence today.
outer fortification. In its place, a new wall was built, followed down the • Near the Police Station there is a Jaan Mohammad Mosque. This mosque
years by the Railway Station, Town Hall, Government School building, was built by Mian Jaan Mohammad in the Hijri Year 1289 (1872 A.D.).
District Courts and Treasury Headquarters. The Town Hall consequentially Mian Jaan had come to Amritsar for the purpose of business from
became the nucleus of colonial Amritsar, with its grandiose architecture. Kashmir, he liked the city and decided to settle here. After his death as
During British rule, people would gather every evening to relax and enjoy per his wish he was buried besides the mosque constructed by him.
the music played by live bands in the Town Hall grounds. Its central tower • Just near this heritage building there is another building housing Punjab
was brightly lit at night, and the chimes of its bells could be heard over National Bank. Long before the partition it was named as Lal Haveli and
a kilometre away. In the early 20th Century, an expansive public library it housed an oil and a perfume manufacturing factory and was owned
was established on the premises. Later renamed the Motilal Nehru by Kahan Singh and Mohan Singh. An oil press is found there. Their
Library, it is inscribed with the quotation from Sri Guru Arjan Dev, Vasadi perfume and oil had a national and international market as well.
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2 GURDWARA SARAGARHI
The Gurdwara Saragarhi is dedicated to the twenty-
one soldiers of the 36 Sikhs Battalion who lost their
lives bravely defending their posts on September
12, 1897. The soldiers, members of the Sikh
regiment of British India, were sent to protect Fort
Lockhart in Saragarhi, located in the North-West
Frontier Province (now in Pakistan). While standing
guard, they were unexpectedly ambushed by ten
thousand Pathan tribesmen. In keeping with the
tradition of the Sikh Army, the men fought to the
death, refusing to surrender. Although they were
only twenty-one, the battle lasted over six hours and
is considered by UNESCO as one of the eight most
important demonstrations of collective bravery. To
commemorate their bravery, three gurdwaras were
erected — one at Saragarhi, the venue of the battle,
the second at Firozpur called the Saragarhi
Memorial and the third here at Amritsar, called
Gurdwara Saragarhi. The memorial at Amritsar was
designed by the architect Ram Singh and was
unveiled on February 14, 1902. All twenty-one
soldiers were posthumously awarded the Order of
Merit which was equivalent to Victoria Cross. Every
year on the 12th of September, an event is
organized in memory of their heroism and
celebrating their bravery.
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IA
LUWAL AH QILA AHLUWALIA JALEBIWALA UDASIN ASHRAM
CHOWK AKHARA SANGALWALA
KATRA
BA Z A A R
LA
R I WA
U NA
A DECORATIVE BALCONY AA RM
BA Z
GH
AN
TAG
HAR
A TRADITIONAL SHOP HOUSE
BA
Z AA
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Jassa Singh Ahluwalia (1718–1783)
The Ahluwalia Misl was founded by Sadho Singh from village ‘Ahlu’ from which the
family took its name, but the true founder of the confederacy was Sardar Jassa Singh
Ahluwalia the fifth descendent of Sadho, who was born in 1718,. He did more than
any other Sikh Chief to consolidate the Sikh power. He founded the Kapurthala State
in 1772. He defeated Afghan invader Abdali in the Battle of Amritsar, October 17,
1765.
The formation of the Dal Khalsa and the Misls
After the death of Baba Banda Singh Bahadur, the Sikh forces were divided into 65
jathas (bands), each of with its own name, flag and leader. These Armies or jathas, A UNIQUE DETAIL OF A HAND WITH
which came to known later on as Misls (literally “equal”, also “an example”) together ROSARY BEAD
were,
however, given the name of the Dal Khalsa (or the Army of the Khalsa). Most of the
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Misl were very small and only 12 Misl were prominent and powerfull. After the
Phulkian Misl the Ahluwalia Misl was the most powerful.
Katra – commercial & residential areas, controlled and managed by local chiefs.
Katra Ahluwalia was established by Jassa Singh Ahluwalia
B 14 15
3 QILA AHLUWALIA
The fort once belonged to Ahluwalia Misl, Its famous leader Jassa Singh
Ahluwalia played a crucial role in repelling foreign invasions during the
18th Century. Owing to his numerous victories in battle and triumphant
conquest of Lahore in 1761, he was awarded the title Sultan-ul-Qaum,
or ‘Emperor of the Sikh community’. His bravery played a vital role in
paving the way for Maharaja Ranjit Singh to establish Sikh rule in the
Region.
The Municipal Committee eventually auctioned the fort to Marwari
families in 1900. They in turn restructured it to set up their businesses
and homes. Today, Qila Ahluwalia is located in the heart of downtown
Amritsar’s business district, which bustles with commercial activity.
The fort is rich in colonial-style architecture, complete with intricate
stonework and beautifully designed gates and spiral staircases. Inside,
the well and adjacent stable were integral to its functioning. There was
a tank in the middle of the property, which is now a parking lot.
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PRATAP BAZAAR
KAT
HIA
NB
CHITTA AKHARA BABA BOHAR
AZ
7
BA
AA
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7 9
RS
MA
AB
I SE
UN
IAN
WA
B
AZA
AR
Dona: It is a specially designed
brass pot used for carrying milk
particularly available in Amritsar
area of Punjab.
DARSHANI DEORI THAKURDWARA
DARIANA MAL
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6 CHITTA AKHARA
Chitta Akhara, also known as Ganga Ram Akhara after its founder Mahant
Ganga Ram, was established in 1781, making it over two centuries old.
Located in the heart of the city, it serves as a window on the architectural
beauty of the past, with very intricate designs carved into the building’s
stone. There is an ancient tomb inside, surrounded by walls decorated with
vibrant paintings and religious idols.
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7 DARSHANI DEORI
This marks the spot from where Sri Guru Arjun and Sri Guru Hargobind would
stand to view the Golden Temple. As there were no buildings around it at
that time, there was a clear view of the shrine from this spot. Much later the
beautiful painted and gilded ceiling was added.
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8 BABA BOHAR
In the middle of the road near the end of the Bartan
Bazaar, there is a large Banyan (Bohar) tree. The Banyan is
considered sacred because of its ties to ancient worship
and its many inherent beneficial properties. Its bark is
used to make paper, aerial roots used for rope, sap for
strong glue-like adhesives, roots for herbal medicine, and
twigs as improvised toothbrushes to promote dental
health. Taken as a whole, the Banyan provides shelter from
all of nature’s elements, from torrential downpours to the
sun’s intense rays, and for centuries the priests and saints
have sat under it to meditate and philosophise.
For these reasons, the Baba Bohar has not been touched
for centuries, and the surrounding buildings have actually
been built around it, a truly fascinating sight to behold. It
has been witness to the age of Gurus and to the
foundation of the city, and is revered as a holy entity
whose roots run deep and branches help tie together the
many communities of the city.
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9 THAKURDWARA DARIANA MAL
Entering the courtyard of the Thakurdwara is like stepping back in time,
shedding light on the beautiful colonial-style architecture that has
influenced much of downtown Amritsar. The frescoes represent intricate
floral patterns, ornamentation and various incidents from Hindu mythology
particularly from the life of Lord Rama. Completed in 1876, the Thakurdwara
is dedicated to Lord Krishna and contains two shrines. Upstairs, the intricate
designs and striking artwork add to the lure of the structure. It is situated in
Katra Mohar Singh near the Chowrasti Atari.
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TAKSAL
EET
STR
ING
C R AWL
S H
ARD BOOT
T OW G I N G
FLO
G SRI GURU HARGOBIND SAHIB
Sri Guru Hargobind Sahib
(1595–1644) was the sixth of the TAKSAL
Ten Gurus of Sikhism and
10 12 became Guru on 25 May 1606.
11 TAKSAL
CHOWK
A DECORATIVE ENTRANCE OF A TRADITIONAL HOUSE GUJARATI SAMAJ THAKURDWARA RAI KISHAN CHAND /
SHAHNI MANDIR
D 30 31
10 CHOWRASTI ATARI 11 TAKSAL (MINT)
Sri Guru Hargobind Sahib , the sixth of the ten Sikh Gurus, built The Chowrasti Located at Katra Hari Singh, this is Amritsar’s first mint, where Sikh regime
Atari complex in the early 1600s, with four passages and thirty-two shops. coins were once struck. In 1803, Maharaja Ranjit Singh issued coins
Guru Hargobind’s invited artisans and traders to settle in the area. Also, dedicated to his queen, Moran (peacock). Later known as the Moranshahi
because it was very close to his residence, he would often spend time here coin, they were charmingly embedded with the plume of a peacock. Since
with his devotees, engaging them in conversation and providing them with Moran was actually a dancing girl, this did not go well with the priests of
the guidance and wisdom. Chowrasti (crossroads) Atari (terrace) is located the Golden Temple and they declared that he was guilty of religious
at the end of the Guru Bazaar. misconduct and ordered their production to be stopped. The royal Taksal
was once an integral part of the industrial prosperity of the city.
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THAKURDWARA RAI KISHANCHAND / SHAHNI MANDIR
Thakurdwara Rai Kishanchand is also famous as Shahni Mandir, it
is a beautiful temple situated in Katra Hari Singh (opposite to the
Taksal of the Bhangis). This temple was built in 1868 by Seth Rai
Kishan Chand Sapra’s wife, popularly known as ‘Shahniji’. The images
of Hanuman and Garuda at its entrance door attract attention.
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12 THAKURDWARA RAJA TEJ SINGH (OPTIONAL TOUR)
Thakurdwara Raja Tej Singh, in Katra Jamadar, was constructed in 1851 by
Raja Tej Singh, nephew of Jamadar Khushal Singh. The large rooms made
up of bricks and the shops that were made earlier, have all lost their historical
appearance as they have been renovated.
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13 CRAWLING STREET (OPTIONAL TOUR)
On April 9, 1919, the day after Hindus and
Muslims jointly celebrated Ram Navami in
Jalebiwala Chowk, an angry mob took to the
streets on a mission to exact revenge on the
British. Enraged by the oppressive policies of
British authorities, they took their aggression out
on the first person they saw, British missionary
Ms. Marcella Sherwood. Struggling for survival,
she knocked on the doors of many houses in the
neighbourhood for help. Her cries fell on deaf
ears, however, as the local residents were fearful
that they would become targets of the rabble
who left her lying in the middle of the street, SOLDIERS OF THE 25TH LONDON
nearly dead. ENFORCING THE 'CRAWLING ORDER'.
The British Commandant of the Infantry Brigade
HAV
at Jalandhar, General Dyer, was furious to learn
of this event. On April 13, three days after Ms. THE HATCHED AREA WAS MARKED
ELI
Sherwood was assaulted, General Dyer ordered FOR CRAWLING ORDER BY GEN.
JAM
the mass execution of Sikh devotees at DYER ON 19TH APRIL
A DA
Jallianwala Bagh during the religious festival of
R TH
Baisakhi, one of the most horrific tragedies in
AND
modern Indian history. On April 19, he issued an
order that any Indian passing through Kucha
E KH
Kurrichhan, the street on which Ms. Sherwood
UW
was attacked, would have to crawl on their hands
ALI
and knees. Dyer deployed soldiers at both ends
of the street to flog anyone who did not adhere
to his decree. Those who resisted were tied to the
flogging post nude, and were mercilessly lashed
thirty times. On the first day alone, 50 people AN
were punished, including a pregnant woman, a BOOTH A DRI
O G GING H AM
blind man, a senior citizen and several physically I OR F L KUC
TIK TIK ARI
disabled people.
T I AT
R AS
KUCH CHHAN
U 13
CHA
KURR
R
TOWAR AI SALO.
AZA CRAWLING
TOBAB
A
I
WELL B
STREET
DS LOG
H
ARH TO
ENTRANCE TO WELL AND KUCHA KURRICHHAN • Source: Map displayed in Jalianwala bagh
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WALK END
THARA SAHIB
14
14
BA
GALLIARA
ZA
AR
PA
PR
AN
ANCIENT PASSAGE
BA Z
AAR
LOH
AM
AND
I
BA Z
I
M AND
AAR
AK
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MIS
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AZA
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14 ANCIENT PASSAGE
This ancient passage is typical archway between various mohallas and katras
of old Amritsar, established by Sikh Misls. These gateways were important
for the safety of the different markets that were enclosed in the Katras . The
traditional ‘Chudi Bazaar’ – bangle market in this ancient passage is very
popular in Amritsar.
The market is famous for wedding ornaments especially the “Churas” which
is worn by a Sikh bride for the wedding ceremony. Traditionally, the girl’s
maternal uncle makes her wear this, set of red and white ivory (since ivory
is now banned, it has been replaced by plastic) bangles that have been
dipped in kachchi lassi or buttermilk.
In addition to this the bride also wears a steel bangle or “kada” on each of
her wrist onto which her family and friends tie the “kaleerans” or dangling
gold baubles; symbol of good luck.
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Traditional Architectural Elements of Old Amritsar Glimpses of Amritsar Heritage Walk
5. UDASIN ASHRAM
AKHARA SANGALWALA 6. CHITTA AKHARA 7. DARSHANI DEORI 8. BABA BOHAR
THAKURDWARA RAI
KISHAN CHAND /
9. THAKURDWARA DARIANA MAL 10. CHOWRASTI ATARI 11. TAKSAL CHOWK SHAHNI MANDIR
12. THAKURDWARA RAJA TEJ SINGH 13. CRAWLING STREET: 14. ANCIENT PASSAGE
FLOGGING BOOTH
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