SEPTEMBER 2015 | VOTED AUSTRALIA’S BEST FOOD MAGAZINE

delicious.
FASTER TAKE A

PASTA
Cheat’s gnocchi,
SHORTCUT
20 minute
bolognese

healthy parsnip
spaghetti + more

STEFANO
MANFREDI
Fresh seasonal menu
from the garden

LA
DOLCE
VITA
Food trails in
Venice, Milan
& Tuscany

the
Italian +
ISSUE
Modern twists on regional classics
GUILT-FREE
DESSERTS
Raw tiramisu &
sugar-free gelato

RICK STEIN Beautiful fig & mascarpone tart

SILVIA COLLOCA Father’s Day brunch
JAMIE OLIVER Clever vegetarian meatballs
NEW ITALIAN RECIPES + JAMIE’S LASAGNE + RICOTTA CHEESECAKE + GLUTEN-FREE BISCOTTI
contents
98
REGULARS
8 Ed’s letter
14 Menus
16 Talk to us
17 Coming up
19 Out & about
Join us for our first Italian festa at
Otto Ristorante; plus delicious.
Produce Awards 2015 round-up.
35 Insider: news
Food trends and restaurant news.

72
46 Drinks
Mike Bennie on ’new’ Italian grapes.
48 Meat market
Butcher Anthony Puharich tests chef
Colin Fassnidge with veal girello.
52 Mike McEnearney
Too good to be true: healthy nutella.
SAVOUR 106 Silvia Colloca 54 I’m loving...
25 Hand picked A decadent Father’s Day Matt Preston sets the record on pasta.
A seasonal Italian feast from Stefano brunch – Italian style. 56 Innovators
Manfredi of Balla, Bells in Killcare 114 Entertaining Anthony Huckstep investigates risotto.
and Pretty Beach House in NSW. Sydney restaurateur Maurice Terzini’s 68 Subscribe to delicious.
40 Extract menu for easy entertaining. Receive a quartz stone frypan.
Three Blue Ducks’ Darren Robertson 122 Balancing act 146 Insider: travel
and Mark LaBrooy share a recipe Shannon Harley proves you can Hot destinations, news and products.
from their new book. have your cake and eat it too 158 Recipe index & directory
43 Hotspot with wholesome Italian dolce. 162 Hit list
Menu picks from Sydney’s Besser Sydney restaurateur Andrew Cibej’s
and Bacaro in Canberra. ESCAPE global food and drink haunts.
72 On trend 132 Valli’s kitchen diary
Phoebe Wood’s hot new Italian Dishes inspired by a week-long
line-up gives old favourites cooking adventure in Veneto, Italy.
FOLLOW US...
a run for their money. 140 Global flavours
80 Jamie Oliver Discover the Tuscan medieval
@deliciousAUS
Classic Italian dishes get a Italian village transformed into
genius vegetarian makeover. an extraordinary luxe resort. Download our new enhanced
App for Cook Mode
88 Faster food 148 24 hours in Milan
Warren Mendes’ recipes Kerrie McCallum’s top spots in ON THE COVER
for speedy weeknight pasta. the fashion and design capital. 20-minute bolognese (recipe p 97)
98 Rick Stein 150 Locavore Recipe Warren Mendes
Explore the Eastern Mediterranean Italian cucina, prosecco and artisan Photography Alicia Taylor
with dishes from Venice to Istanbul. producers in Victoria’s King Valley. Styling Kirsten Jenkins

4 delicious.
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Miele Centers Telephone AUS 1300 464 353 NZ 0800 464 353 or visit www.miele.com.au
Featuring the latest Miele Steam Combination Oven (DGC 6800 XL).
ED‘S LETTER.

welcome I RETURNED TO Italy for the first time

in a while, and fell in love with the country
all over again – as I hope you do with this
month’s special Italian issue. My foodie hit
list was guided by readers and contributors
making brilliant recommendations in real
time on Instagram as I moved around. Lake
House’s Alla Wolf-Tasker spotted my post
from Milan and recommended I try the
risotto alla Milanese at Ristorante da
Giacomo (“just opposite” from where I was
standing, she said from the other side of the
world). A restaurateur friend from Brisbane
pointed me towards Ravello 18, “the best spot in the city”, and the gnocchi
did not disappoint. Our contributor Silvia Colloca is another expert on Milan,
having grown up there, and this month she sets the table with a Father’s Day
menu (p 106); Maurice Terzini, of Icebergs fame, invites us into his home for
a lesson in easy entertaining (p 114); Valli Little heads to Venice (p 132); and
Stefano Manfredi creates a seasonal menu from the garden (p 25). While
I could go on and on and on about Italy, I’d like to bring it back to Australia
and thank everybody who made our 10th annual delicious. Produce Awards
at Bennelong in Sydney such a spectacular night (p 20). Congratulations to all
the winners and medallists!

Kerrie McCallum, Editor-in-chief

@kerriemccallum @kerrie_mccallum

SHARE COOK ESCAPE

Senior food editor Food editor Warren We cruise the Med
Phoebe Wood’s new Mendes’ 10 faster with Rick Stein in
Italian recipes are pastas make for our extract of his
full of surprises, innovative weeknight beautiful new book,
including a must-try fare. Find his clever From Venice to
lemon tart, p 72. shortcuts on p 88. Istanbul, p 98.

8 delicious.
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delicious. EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Kerrie McCallum

CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Aleksandra Beare

EDITORIAL
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12 delicious.
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menus FAT H E R ’ S D AY

PASTICCERRIA
Roasted fennel
AT HOME & pine nut
polpette
Espresso madeleines, p 108
~ V I VA I TA L I A !
Mussel & artichoke
cavatelli Torta di riso (rice pudding cake
with pine nut praline), p 28 MID-WEEK ITALIAN
~ Roasted fennel & pine nut
FATHER’S DAY Gluten-free pistachio
polpette, p 84
amaretti morbidi, p 127
LUNCH Peter Lehmann
“What’s not to love Wigan Riesling 2010
Sfincione with cavolo nero,
about a culture that ~
speck and pecorino, p 76 Chorizo carbonara, p 96
can indulge a serious
Tyrrell’s Belford Single sweet addiction from Casella Limited Release
Vineyard Semillon 2009 espresso o’clock to Shiraz 2010
~ biscotti hour?” ~
Mussel & artichoke cavatelli, p 118 Shannon Harley,
Sugar-free, vegan
Pierro Chardonnay 2013 managing editor
stracciatella gelato, p 124
~ Peter Lehmann Masters
Ricotta cheesecake with T R E AT Y O U R S E L F Botrytis Semillon 2011
roasted blueberries, p 124
Lillypilly Noble Blend “This riesling will
Family Reserve 2008 make the sauce for the
polpette sing, while a
“Spoil Dad with more fruity, peppery shiraz
traditional wine styles matches spicy chorizo.
with the kind of full To finish, this luscious
flavour and generosity semillon matches the
that are possible from gelato beautifully.”
warmer wine regions John Casella,
of Australia.” Mike Gluten-free pistachio managing director,
Bennie, drinks writer amaretti morbidi Casella Family Brands

14 delicious.
The freshest
thinking in
a fridge
is mо...
@deliciousAUS
Stay connected @deliciousAUS for bonus
content, news and behind-the-scenes photos
from our team, plus fantastic foodie prizes.

birthday bake
INSTA OF I needed to find the
THE MONTH perfect cake for my mum’s 60th.
I tried out the stout chocolate
#makeitdelicious
cake with butterscotch sauce
(Wicked, July 15, p 82). Yum!
Rebecca Lemm

one-pot wonder
Colin Fassnidge’s pot-roast

Send your emails to delicious@newslifemedia.com.au or write to us at Locked Bag 5030, Alexandria, NSW 2015.
chicken (Entertaining, July 15,
p 67) is perfect for a winter’s day.

delicious. reserves the right to edit and publish reader letters, comments, posts and photographs,
Alison Umpleby

yes marco!
Thanks to Vic’s Meat
Market for hosting Marco Pierre
White, who did a Q&A while
cooking a delicious skirt steak. cold comfort
Dinner cooked by Marco – my I recently had an awful
life is complete. @jeanstravels cold and was tucked in bed for
five days. Luckily for me, your
wonderful 150th [July] issue
arrived while I was sick. It gave
me the inspiration to look back
through all my past issues
of delicious. and now I’ve
rediscovered so many of your
global roaming wonderful recipes that I can’t
A delicious. Sunday wait to whip up! Thanks for
in Istanbul. #makeitdelicious all the ‘nom noms’ delicious.!
@ceinwenj
#Istanbul @mrvturan Tracey Blunck

AND THE WINNER IS...

Your August issue is deserving of congratulations! I’ll be cooking a recipe a day from it for two weeks at
least. I was especially excited by the new Balancing Act feature; easy, tasty recipes that are healthy are
difficult to find. This could be my favourite issue yet – well done. Stephanie Beehag, Mortdale, NSW
ED’S NOTE: Congratulations, Stephanie! You’ve won a Kenwood kCook – an all-in-one
multi-cooker to help with all that cooking! For more details, visit: kenwood-australia.com.
 COMING UP.

S I LV I A C O L L O C A

SILVIA TAKES OVER

SINCE JOINING DELICIOUS.
AS A REGULAR CONTRIBUTOR,
@SILVIACOLLOCA HAS BROUGHT
THAT LITTLE TOUCH OF ITALY,
SHOWING US HOW TO MAKE
EVERYTHING FROM SILKY
PASTAS AND COMFORTING
SOUPS TO THE BEST BREADS
AND CAKES. TO CELEBRATE HER
LOVE AFFAIR WITH THE FOOD
OF HER MOTHER COUNTRY, SHARE
SILVIA WILL BE TAKING AND WIN!
OVER OUR INSTAGRAM ON
Exciting news just in... you
SEPTEMBER 2, SHARING SOME
could win great prizes just
FAVOURITE SNAPS FROM HER by talking to us! Let us
ITALIAN-INSPIRED CUCINA. know what you’re liking,
IT WILL BE AMORE! cooking and eating
by tagging us on social
media or emailing us, and
you’re in with the chance

VALLI’S VENICE to win fantastic foodie

prizes, with the winning
PHOTO ALBUM post or comment featured
in the magazine. This
Stay connected to our Facebook month, we‘re taking

page to see more travel snaps from inspiration from Italy with
a double prize pack from
iconic design label Alessi.
city of Venice, where she hosted an Tag @deliciousAUS or
email delicious@newslife
idyllic week-long cooking school media.com.au and you
highlights include Rialto Market could win the Philippe
tour and fresh seafood recipes. Plus, download our Starck citrus squeezer
(above), and a Michael
new enhanced App for exclusive digital recipes. Graves ‘singing’ kettle.

FOLLOW US... @deliciousAUS

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delicious. 17
 italian party
OUT & ABOUT.

AT OTTO, SYDNEY

Grissini wrapped in prosciutto; truffle

arancini; salami and reggiano;
ricotta-stuffed zucchini flowers
Aperitivi & Nino Franco Prosecco di

T utti a tavola! Join us for our first-ever Italian party as we celebrate our annual
Italian issue at Sydney’s favourite fine-dining ristorante, Otto on Cowper Wharf,
Woolloomooloo. The Italians created the art of aperitivo, so you’ll get the party
Valdobbiadene Rustico Veneto
~

started true to style being serenaded by an accordion player while sipping on Gnocchetti sardi pasta with spanner
Otto’s barrel-aged negroni, a sparkling Aperol spritz or a bellini as platters of crab, tomatoes, chilli, garlic
antipasti get you in the mood for chef Richard Ptacnik’s traditional shared feast. and bottarga
The menu includes a bright crab and tomato pasta, meltingly tender porchetta Fondo Antico Grillo Parlante Sicily
and Italy’s greatest contribution to the world (up there with Andrea Bocelli and ~
Sophia Loren)... tiramisu! Italian wines will flow all night long and Otto will make
Porchetta (roast pork) with garlic,
sure the feasting continues, giving every guest a goodie bag to take home.
rosemary and thyme roast potatoes;
rocket, parmesan and apple salad
WHERE Otto, Area 8, 6 Cowper Wharf Rd, with balsamic dressing
PHOTOGRAPHY NIKKI TO

Woolloomooloo, NSW
Livon Refosco dal Penduncolo
WHEN 6.30pm, Wednesday, October 14 Rosso Friuli
PRICE $130 for 4 courses with matching Italian wines ~

BOOK From August 31, tel: (02) 9368 7488 Tiramisu; biscotti

delicious. 19
PRODUCE AWARDS. 4

3
5

2
6

DELICIOUS.
PRODUCE AWARDS
at beelоg
F rom the produce-inspired ice sculptures to the beautifully
styled interior and artful food and drink, every last detail
fell effortlessly into place for the 10th anniversary of the delicious.
8 9 Produce Awards. And what better setting than the new Bennelong
at the Sydney Opera House to celebrate the best of Australian
food with winners spanning from Victoria to Western Australia,
all the way to Skull Island in the Northern Territory. The canapes,
designed by chef (and winner of the Maggie Beer Award for

PHOTOGRAPHY LEIGH GRIFFITHS & ESTABAN LA TESSA

Outstanding Contribution to Australian Food) Peter Gilmore
featured produce from this year’s finalists and winners – think
yabby wrapped in Kindred Organics buckwheat pikelets with
creme fraiche, Melanda Park suckling pig and sesame pastry
with black garlic, or potimarron pumpkin with seeds, grains
and Pyengana cheddar cream. Catalina Sounds wines, bubbles
10 from House of Arras, 4 Pines beers and Four Pillars gin flowed
all night and matched the menu perfectly.
The ever-entertaining Matt Preston played host alongside
delicious. Editor-in-Chief Kerrie McCallum, handing out the
well-deserved awards. Congratulations to all our finalists,
medallists and winners, we thank you for your drive and innovation
in bringing the best Australia has to offer to our tables day after
day, year after year. We can’t wait to do it all again next year.
 @deliciousAUS
13
Tag yourself and your friends at
our events using #makeitdelicious

14 15

11 12
16

18

17

PROUDLY SUPPORTED BY

19 20 21

1. Bradley Cocks and Collette Dinnigan. 2. MCs delicious. Editor-in-Chief Kerrie McCallum and Matt Preston. 3. Catalina Sounds wines. 4. Awards Patron Maggie
Beer with Maggie Beer Award winner and Executive Chef at Bennelong, Peter Gilmore. 5. NewsLifeMedia CEO Nicole Sheffield, Kerrie McCallum and Group Food
Publisher Fiona Nilsson. 6. Four Pillars Rare Dry Gin. 7. The delicious. editorial team Karen Rubin, Phoebe Wood, Heidi Finnane, Shannon Harley, Warren Mendes,
David Matthews, Aleks Beare, Kerrie McCallum, Caitlin Griffith-Pecset and Josie Taylor. 8. Clayton Wright of Wrights The Butchers, Sally Gosper of Simon Johnson
and Blackmore Wagyu’s David Blackmore with Meat and Livestock Australia Trade Marketing Manager Tim Elwin. 9. Ice sculptures showcased produce. 10. Chef
Ben Milgate with Caroline McCredie. 11. Spicers Retreats chefs Doug Innes-Will and Rory Thorpe with Chief Marketing Technologist of Spicers Retreats, Luke
Neale. 12. The Daily Telegraph’s Anne-Maree Gale, General Manager of news.com.au Julian Delany and Liz Deegan. 13. Sparkling House of Arras. 14. Chef Darren
Robertson and Magdalena Roze. 15. Matt Preston and Harvey Norman Senior Brand Manager Gary Brown presenting the award for Outstanding Regional Chef to
James Viles. 16. National Judges Matt Moran, Alla Wolf-Tasker, Christine Manfield and Shannon Bennett with Maggie Beer and Critics Panel Judge Valli Little. 17.
Salad of raw mushrooms and hazelnuts. 18. State Judge Alex Herbert, Maggie Beer and Joanna Savill. 19. Peter Gilmore plates up yabbies on buckwheat pikelets.
20. Winners of Outstanding Innovation Kathryn and Michael Sommerlad with category winners Roz and Bruce Burton of Milking Yard Farm. 21. 4 Pines beers.

delicious. 21
 2
EVENT.
@deliciousAUS
Tag yourself and your friends at
our events using #makeitdelicious

3
4 1. delicious. Editor-in-chief Kerrie McCallum
hosted the evening. 2. The new release
Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage Collection
Rosé 2006. 3. Chef Lauren Murdoch created
a French-inspired menu for the evening.
4. Cardamom pannacotta with orange, date
and pistachio salad. 5. Anna Heinrich and
1 guest. 6. Natarsha Belling. 7. Grace Huang,
Adam Williams and Jesinta Campbell.
5 6 8. Serving up the Moët & Chandon Grand
Vintage Rosé 2006. 9. Kerrie McCallum
with Moët & Chandon chef de cave Benoit
Gouez. 10. Marta Dusseldorp. 11. Moët
& Chandon Grand Vintage Collection Rosé
(1999 and 1985).

MOËT & CHANDON

VINTAGE RELEASE
at Richard Wherrett Studio, Sydney
It was a sparkling night at the Richard Wherrett Studio in Sydney’s Walsh Bay
as we celebrated the launch of Moët & Chandon’s Grand Vintage Rosé 2006
with Moët & Chandon chef de cave Benoit Gouez and a star-studded line-up
PHOTOGRAPHY KEN BUTTI

of Sydney’s most dedicated Champagne connoisseurs, including actor Marta

Dusseldorp, model Jesinta Campbell, Anna Heinrich from The Bachelor
and Channel 10’s Natarsha Belling. Chef Lauren Murdoch’s French-inspired
menu was designed to be served with bubbles only and included an elegant
poached tiger prawn with butternut pumpkin puree and toasted almond
crumb, followed by confit duck with Puy lentils and citrus vinaigrette, and
10 11 cardamom pannacotta with an orange, date and pistachio salad. Magnifique!

22 delicious.
 www.ara-anz.com
THE LUXE
LOAFER

Shoe fashion that fits me.

hand
Australia’s godfather of Italian cucina – chef and gardener Stefano
Manfredi – knows a thing or two about produce. With spring
blooming, he turns the season’s ingredients into an Italian feast.
PHOTOGRAPHY BRETT STEVENS STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS WORDS DAVID MATTHEWS

delicious. 25
HAND PICKED.

Zuppa di ostriche e
patate (oyster & potato
soup). OPPOSITE:
vignarola romanesca
(braised artichokes
& spring vegetables
– recipes p 28).

26 delicious.
 “People are scared of artichokes , but they’re simple to prepare and
beautiful – toss in pasta, or braise with other spring vegetables for a Roman classic.”
HAND PICKED.

ZUPPA DI OSTRICHE E PATATE 1/4 bunch each mint and flat-leaf parsley, 100ml dry white wine
(OYSTER & POTATO SOUP) leaves picked 2 x 400g cans whole peeled tomatoes,
SERVES 4 AS A STARTER 1 long red chilli, seeds removed, mashed
Ideally, the oysters should be freshly finely chopped 500g bucatini
shucked and their liquor strained through 1/3 cup (25g) finely grated pecorino

muslin to remove any grit. This liquor is Cut half the pecorino into 1cm pieces
then used to add extra flavour to the soup. Fill a large bowl with water and lemon and combine with the garlic, chilli,
juice. To clean the artichokes, using a parsley and nutmeg. Set aside.
100ml olive oil vegetable peeler, peel the stem, then Place the pork between two sheets of
1 onion, sliced remove the tough outer leaves. Once you baking paper and, using a meat tenderiser
2 garlic cloves, crushed reach the softer leaves, using a serrated or a rolling pin, beat into an even 20cm
2 celery stalks, sliced knife, trim one-third from the top. Cut the square. Scatter over pecorino mixture
400g desiree potatoes, peeled, sliced artichoke in half lengthways, so you can leaving a 2cm border around edge. Cover
1 bay leaf reach the hairy choke, then scrape it mixture with pancetta slices, roll up pork
1/2 cup (125ml) dry white wine out with a small knife and discard. tightly and tie securely with kitchen string.
24 rock oysters, shucked, liquor strained Place artichoke halves in lemon water. Place the lardo, if using, and olive oil in
and reserved Repeat with remaining artichokes. a heavy-based flame-proof casserole over
Micro rocket, to garnish Peel and discard the grey outer skins medium-low heat and heat for 4 minutes
from the broad beans and set aside. or until lardo is melted. (Alternatively,
Heat oil in a saucepan over medium-low Heat oil in a large, deep frypan over heat all olive oil over medium-low heat.)
heat. Add onion, garlic and 1/4 tsp salt, medium heat. Add pancetta and cook, Increase heat to medium-high and cook
and cook, stirring, for 3-4 minutes until turning once, for 2 minutes or until crisp pork roll, turning, for 8-10 minutes until
softened. Increase heat to medium-high, and golden. Remove from pan and drain browned all over, adding 1 tbs wine each
then add celery, potato, bay leaf and on paper towel, then set aside. time you turn. Reduce heat to low, then
wine, and cook for 3 minutes or until wine Reduce heat to medium-low and add add tomato and season. Cook, turning
is evaporated. Add 3 cups (750ml) water spring onion to the pan. Cook, stirring, every 30 minutes, for 11/2 hours or until
and bring to the boil. Reduce heat to for 2-3 minutes until softened. Add the pork is tender (add a little water if mixture
low, partially cover with lid, and simmer for artichoke and 3/4 cup (180ml) water, then becomes too dry). Remove pork from
45-50 minutes until potato is very tender. season. Cover with a lid and cook for pan and cool slightly. Remove string, then
Using a fork, roughly mash potato. Stir 10 minutes, then add the peas, broad shred into pieces. Return pork to the
in oyster liquor and season. Add oysters beans and lettuce leaves, and cook for sauce and stir to combine. Keep warm.
and cook for 1 minute or until just cooked. a further 4-5 minutes until artichokes Meanwhile, cook pasta according to
Divide the soup among bowls and and lettuce are tender. packet instructions, then drain, reserving
garnish with micro rocket to serve. Place artichokes and lettuce on a serving 1/3 cup (80ml) cooking liquid.

dish and scatter with peas and broad Toss the pasta and reserved cooking
VIGNAROLA ROMANESCA (BRAISED beans. Break over crispy pancetta, then liquid with sauce until combined. Place
ARTICHOKES & SPRING VEGETABLES) garnish with herbs, chilli and pecorino. on a large serving dish and grate over
SERVES 4 AS A STARTER OR SIDE the remaining pecorino to serve.
This is a classic Roman springtime dish. If RAGU ALLA POTENTINA
you want to make it your own you can use (PORK RAGU WITH BUCATINI) TORTA DI RISO (RICE PUDDING
other spring vegetables, but artichokes SERVES 6 CAKE WITH PINE NUT PRALINE)
and peas are absolutely necessary. SERVES 8
100g piece pecorino This dish is most prolific in northern Italy,
Juice of 1 lemon 2 garlic cloves, crushed where rice is grown below the Alps from
4 small globe artichokes 1 tsp dried chilli flakes Piedmont to Lombardy, Veneto and Friuli.
300g podded broad beans, 1/2 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves

blanched, refreshed 1/2 tsp freshly grated nutmeg 3 cups (750ml) milk
100ml olive oil 1kg boneless pork shoulder, trimmed, 150g Italian short-grain rice (ideally
6 thin slices pancetta, butterflied vialone nano or carnaroli)
roughly torn 8 thin slices flat pancetta 4 eggs
2 spring onions, finely chopped 50g lardo, chopped (optional – substitute 1/2 cup (175g) honey

300g peas, blanched, refreshed 2 tbs extra virgin olive oil) 2 tbs slivered pistachios,
6 butter lettuce leaves 2 tbs extra virgin olive oil plus extra to garnish

28 delicious.
 Ragu alla potentina
(pork ragu with
bucatini)

“Using pancetta is a great way to build flavour into dishes,

such as this deliciously rich pork ragu from Basilicata.”
Torta di riso (rice
pudding cake with
pine nut praline
– recipe p 28)
 HAND PICKED.

2 tbs hazelnuts, chopped

30g pine nuts
1/4 cup (40g) sultanas

1/4 cup (40g) chopped candied citrus peel

15g chopped cedro (Italian candied OYSTERS

citron), plus extra to garnish Most oysters in Australia
1 tsp vanilla extract are pre-shucked, which is
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon a shame, as there’s nothing
40g unsalted butter, softened like the flavour of a freshly
shucked oyster in its own
PINE NUT PRALINE salty liquor. We have three
1/3 cup (50g) pine nuts commercial varieties in
1/2 cup (110g) caster sugar Australia – the Sydney Rock,
Pacific and the native Angasi
MASCARPONE CREAM oyster – but even among the
2 eggwhites same variety flavours differ
1/3 cup (75g) caster sugar from river to river and
1 cup (250g) mascarpone, estuary to estuary, so try
at room temperature plenty and try them often.
1 tsp vanilla extract Oysters handle delicate
cooking and can be steamed
‘Money Penny’ harlequin fabric in base ivy, Emily Ziz; ‘Bevanda’ glasses in blue, Citta Design. Soup: ‘Cross Grid’ hi ball glasses in

For praline, line a baking tray with baking lightly in their own juices,
Opener: ’Money Penny’ harlequin fabric in base ivy, Emily Ziz; ‘Finch’ serving platter in blue, Citta Design. Braised artichokes:

spearmint and skyline, Freedom; ‘Manhattan’ fabric in minty green, Emily Ziz. Ragu: ‘Seb’ dining chairs in navy and mustard,

paper and spread over pine nuts. Place grilled until they pop open, or slipped into soups.
Jardan; ‘Conor’ jug in lagoon, Freedom. Cake: ‘Conor’ jug in lagoon, Freedom. For stockist details, see Directory, p 158.

sugar and 1/4 cup (60ml) water in a pan

over low heat, stirring until sugar dissolves. ARTICHOKES
Increase heat to medium and cook, without Edible thistle may sound like an oxymoron, but artichokes – immature flower
stirring, for 5-7 minutes until golden. Pour buds from a thistle variety – are just that. Boil and serve whole with melted
over the pine nuts, cool completely, then butter or vinaigrette, peeling the leaves and dipping the tender bases, then
break into shards. Set aside. removing the choke to expose the heart. A spring staple in Italy, Romans
Heat milk in a pan over medium heat deep-fry them whole until tender, but artichokes also take kindly to stuffing
until just below boiling point. Stir in rice, and braising, and baby ones can even be eaten raw – if you can find them.
then reduce heat to low. Cover and cook,
simmering gently and stirring occasionally, PANCETTA
for 35 minutes or until rice is soft and Pancetta is Italian pork belly cured with salt, black pepper and spices and is an
creamy. Remove from heat and cool. indispensable flavour in Italian cookery, often finding its way into soffrito with
Preheat oven to 170°C. Grease and line onion, carrot and celery to form the base of soups and ragus, including the
a 22cm round cake pan with baking paper. classic ragu alla bolognese. Buy the flat variety for use in cooking, or ask for
Beat eggs and honey in a bowl, then stir thin slices of rolled pancetta to make your next antipasto platter irresistible.
into cooled rice. Stir in nuts, sultanas, citrus
peel and cedro. Add vanilla, lemon zest ITALIAN RICE
and butter, and stir well to combine. Pour The regions around the Po River Valley, from Piedmont to the Adriatic Sea,
into cake pan and bake for 45-50 minutes specialise in rice, growing arborio, vialone nano and carnaroli, to name a few.
until set. Cool completely in pan. These short-grain rices retain their shape during cooking, while absorbing
Meanwhile, for the mascarpone cream, a lot of liquid, so are perfect for risotto or rice pudding. Arborio is the most
whisk eggwhites in a clean bowl until soft common in Australia, but seek out carnaroli or vialone nano for best results.
peaks form. Gradually add the sugar and
continue to whisk until stiff peaks form.
Gently fold in the mascarpone and vanilla. WHAT ELSE TO BUY IN SEPTEMBER
Turn out cake, spread over mascarpone • asparagus • avocado • blood orange • carrot • cucumber
cream and serve topped with praline, • broad beans • lemon • leek • lettuce • peas • spring onion
extra pistachios and cedro. • potato • silverbeet • spinach • zucchini

delicious. 31
HAND PICKED.

growing GAINS
Cutting his teeth in Sydney in the ‘80s and ‘90s, Stefano Manfredi has never followed the
fashions, relying instead on his Italian roots, and his passion for great produce prepared simply.

S
easonal eating and a farm-to-table ethic are the current Coast. Since, he’s opened the glam osteria Balla back in Sydney
fashion, but you wouldn’t say Stefano Manfredi is just at The Star, and is now involved in the newly reopened Pretty
catching up. It’s more like the trend is finally catching up Beach House, not far from Bells in Bouddi National Park.
with him. “It’s what I’ve always done, in thirty plus years of having Bells’ extensive garden now supplies the restaurant and the
restaurants,” he says. “The seasons are really the thing that luxury guesthouse Pretty Beach House, which Stefano dubs an
inform me and my menus.” immersive experience. “It’s exclusive and it’s a folly – there’s no
Coming from a time in Australia when mushrooms were only property with just four rooms like this in Australia.”
buttons or caps, potatoes were either washed or dirty, and there It’s also a choose-your-own-adventure kind of place, with
PHOTOGRAPHY ANSON SMART

was still a preference for mutton over lamb, it was the prospect options to eat in the dining room, at the pass, select wines from
of having a garden and access to local produce that convinced the cellar, or kick back with wood-fired pizzas by the pool. Largely
Stefano to become involved in the regional high-end resort and curated by Stefano and following his diverse passions, it’s not
restaurant Bells at Killcare. “It’s in my DNA, as it is in most showy, just classic and generous – much like his food.
Italians,” he says. “My dad always had a garden. We had fruit
trees and he’d grow tomatoes and bottle his own wine.” @prettybeachhouse

Stefano first found acclaim with his award-winning Sydney

Download our new enhanced App for Cook Mode
venue The Restaurant, before lending his talents to the Central

32 delicious.
 IN GOOD TASTE
Rachel’s Gourmet Greek Dessert Yoghurt
Combining thick, creamy yoghurt with on-trend flavours like boysenberry and vanilla,
Rachel’s Gourmet Greek Dessert Yoghurt is created for lovers of fine food. Try our other taste
sensations – sophisticated salted caramel and smooth butterscotch and vanilla bean.
www.lurpak.com
 TA B L E TA L K

1
Chef-owners Shaun Quade
and John-Paul Fiechtner are
attempting to revolutionise
dining at LUME in south Melbourne, The larger space means no
where photos are discouraged and queuing for their signature
half ’n’ half margherita pizza
you won’t see a menu until you’ve and calzone, so you’ll need
eaten. With a deg menu full of another excuse to pull up a
surprising pairings, from dairy stool at their aperitivo and
cow in milk with preserved fruits mozzarella bar. Sip on Aperol
to lamb’s blood ganache with spritz and try their cheeses,
native apple jam, strap in for including bufula classica,
bufula affumicata (smoked) and
serious innovation from top
burrata. House-made spaghetti
chefs making their mark.

2
and Italian wines round out
Snack in style at the oyster the full menu, and dessert?
and caviar bar in newly We’re talking Nutella pizza,
reopened BELLEVUE HOTEL in tiramisu and baked ricotta
Sydney’s Paddington. Can’t drop the cake. Be sure to save room.
dollars? Try one of their prix-fixe
menus for mod-Euro plates from

insider NEWS
brisket with smoked beetroot to
chocolate tart with spiced caramel
and pear, or hit their bar for fresh
takes on pub classics.

3
Gelato is taking over the
country, with Messina well and Hot tables, lust-have products, the latest news, books & more.
truly cemented as an Australian
WORDS KRISTY BARRATT, DAVID MATTHEWS & YASMIN NEWMAN

classic, and Cow and Moon taking

on the world from Sydney’s Enmore.
Now Brisbane is coming to the party
with NOM NOM NATURAL GELATO
TRENDING NOW
in Bulimba. East-coast sun makes
for perfect ice cream weather, so
every day is a good day to try their PERFECT PIZZERIAS
classic and not-so-classic flavours, » Pizzeria Violetta, Brisbane (left)
Expect authenticity aplenty with wood-fired pizzas and
made with single-origin milk.

4
all-Italian drinks at this Italian enclave from Renata Roberts.
» Pizzaperta,
Wrap your mouth around
a NYC staple at REUBEN Sydney
REPUBLIC in Sydney. After Stefano Manfredi shows us how it’s done at this hole-in-the-wall
at The Star: slow ferment, cracking crust and classic toppings.
time on the market trail they’ve
found a home to sell their sangas » Luca
Lievita, Melbourne
Guerra is bringing Roman street food to Melbourne with
stuffed with pastrami, crispy pork tray-baked pizzas cut and sold by weight. Yes, you heard right.
or smoked brisket. Set to become
yet another Marrickville icon. Edited by Heidi Finnane: @runsandheids @heidifinnane

delicious. 35
INSIDER.

DRINK IT

AGE
OLD
As early as the 19th century,
savvy bartenders used
vermouth to liven up
Manhattans and martinis.
These days it’s the drink
du jour thanks to artisan
producers who are spicing
things up. Our favourite?
CASA MARIOL Vermut Negre.
Serve as an aperitif over ice.
$49. neatspirits.com.au

bold DESIGN
AURA has been bringing splashes of colour to our homes for 15 years with Tracie Ellis’
extravagant use of colour, oversized prints and daring patterns on all things from linen,
to cushions, dinner party accessories and towels. Now they have a handle on ceramics
with a vibrant range of coffee mugs, side plates and stacking tapas bowls. Inspired Love a sneaky shortcut? Try
by travels from Scandinavia to India, grounded with Melbourne edginess, they’re the new ALLIGATOR BRAND
everything you need to style your table. aurahome.com.au range of fresh pastas, Per Tutti.
Nonna will be impressed. $8.99
(420g). alligatorbrand.com.au

S A LT Y S T U F F

Queensland foodies rejoice. As if opening the doors to a second store

in Sydney’s Mosman wasn’t enough, Italian provedore Salt Meats
Cheese has also opened in Surfers Paradise. saltmeatscheese.com.au

NEW IN
Show your wine you
care with varietal
Get the delicious. look specific stemware from
with this cake dish by the RIEDEL Heart to
KATIA CARLETTI Heart range including
(as seen on p 78). this glass designed
$33. koskela.com.au exclusively to highlight
the flavour profile
of pinot noir from
Central Otago. $59.95.
riedelglass.com.au

36 delicious.
 e Italian
TRAIL
We asked Matt Preston
READ IT for his favourite Italian
• An eclectic compilation album, ROME: CENTURIES IN AN ITALIAN KITCHEN place. He gave us 12!
(Hardie Grant Books, $49.95) is full of guest recipes, sweet illustrations and
beautiful travel and food photography showcasing Rome in all its glory. There’s a
mini snapshot of the city’s culinary past, too. • GUILLAUME: FOOD FOR FAMILY
(Lantern, $79.99) is the celebrated chef’s latest coffee table-style book featuring
decadent menus designed for well-known Aussie families (think the Hemmes and
Uptons) alongside intimate imagery of their stylish residences. • Doctor Catherine
Itsiopoulos reveals how to put the Mediterranean diet into practice and shares
80 vibrant recipes to get you going in THE MEDITERRANEAN DIET COOKBOOK
(Pan Macmillian Australia, $34.99). She also busts a few food fads and gives the
lowdown on recent research supporting the diet. • One of our favourite chefs,
Yotam Ottolenghi, is at it again. NOPI: THE COOKBOOK (Random House Press,
$59.99) is a collection of more than 120 recipes, including baked blue cheesecake,
and twice-cooked baby chicken, from Ottolenghi’s chic Soho restaurant.

PASTA Just one? I head to Caffe Cova in

post
Milan for an espresso and panettone;
Generi Alimentari Da Panino
in Modena for a mortadella and
provolone panino; a no-name canteen
in Porretta Terme (the town where
Spend more time cooking and Mario Batali learnt to make pasta)
less time shopping thanks to for fresh ricotta pasta envelopes in
these online provedores bringing an impossibly vibrant sugo; Cracco
a taste of Italy to your home.
Head to RAW MATERIALS in Milan for Carlo Cracco’s coddled
(rawmaterials.com.au) for eggs with white truffle; Mario Batali’s
everything from grissini to Babbo Ristorante e Enoteca
mints; ditch the alphabetti in New York for parfait-filled
spaghetti and make pasta fun
again with coloured pastas
ravioli with a thick balsamic sauce;
from SALT MEATS CHEESE Pizza e Mozzarella Bar in Adelaide
(saltmeatscheese.com.au); and for pizza; La Stalla, just outside the
try IL PROVIDORE (ilprovidore. walls of Assisi, for their grilled smoked
com.au) to add more Italian cheese (a sort of local scamorza)
flavours to your basket.
bubbling straight off the wood
barbecue; Roscioli deli in Rome for
12-hour-old mozzarella from Puglia;
Campo de’ Fiori in Rome for
tomato-topped focaccia fresh from
the oven; La Pergola, also in Rome,
When India meets for Heinz Beck’s pasta pillows stuffed
Italy... This ROBERT
FOR DAD PLUMB Bollyhood
with carbonara sauce; Simone’s in
tandoor oven Bright, Victoria for Patricia Simone’s
comes with a pizza tiramisu; Osteria Francescana in
Get Dad kitted up stone, too. $2800.
Modena for anything that Massimo
Italian-style in this robertplum.com.au
red-and-white striped Bottura makes; oh and I’ll be eating
apron from WILLIAMS- pizza next week in Naples and
SONOMA. $36. spaghetti with sea urchin in Sicily
williams-sonoma.com.au
the week after that!
 INSIDER.
6
5
3
4

1 2

7 8 9 10

18

11

12

17

13

ITALIAN job
14

15

Combine these delights to recreate the iconic aesthetic of the

land of spaghetti, swarthy stallions and screen sirens at home.
PHOTOGRAPHY DIEU TAN STYLING LUCY TWEED

1. Simon Johnson panforte, $27.95 (250g), simonjohnson.com. 2. Pantone ‘Ketchup Red 186’ 6 cup
coffee maker, $59.95, shop.until.com.au. 3. Il Forteto Cacio di Bosco Tartufo cheese $10.59/100g,
simonjohnson.com. 4. Microplane gourmet fine grater in black, $29, petersofkensington.com.au.
5. Marble & wood cheese board, from $20, williams-sonoma.com.au. 6. Italian double concentrated
tomato paste, $8 (130g), williams-sonoma.com.au. 7. Giorgio Armani ‘Rouge Ecstasy‘ lipstick, $52,
1300 651 991. 8. Shiseido ‘Veiled Rouge‘ lipstick, $38, (02) 9695 5678. 9. Guerlain ‘Kiss Kiss‘ lipstick
in red love, $41, (02) 9695 5678. 10. Guerlain ‘Rouge Automatique‘ lipstick in Rouge D’Enfer, $45,
(02) 9695 5678. 11. Truffle pecorino, $24/200g, saltmeatscheese.com.au. 12. Pollastrini Sardines in
tomato, chilli and olive oil, and olive oil and tomato, $9.40 each (100g), saltmeatscheese.com.au.
13. Pastificio Venturino ‘Birra’ passata, $4.50 (700g), ilprovidore.com.au 14. La Vecchia Dispensa 16
10 year balsamic vinegar, $39.95 (250ml), simonjohnson.com. 15. Tom Ford ’Private Blend Neroli
Portofino’ eau de parfum spray, $295 (50ml), 1800 061 326. 16. Marcato ‘Atlas 150 Wellness’ pasta
maker in red, $120, petersofkensington.com.au. 17. Chef’n Pizza Scissors, $24, williams-sonoma.
com.au. 18. Woodfired pizza bases (cheese and basil not included), $10, saltmeatscheese.com.au.

38 delicious.
EXTRACT.

basic
INSTINCT
MARK LABROOY AND DARREN ROBERTSON of Three Blue Ducks fame
sure know how to live la dolce vita with restaurants spanning the coast from
Sydney‘s Bronte to the lush Byron Bay hinterland. Their latest project is
The Farm, where a pared-back paddock-to-table approach is taking food
back to its roots (to much acclaim – the boys are serving 1500 covers on the
weekend). Here’s a recipe from their latest book, The Blue Ducks’ Real Food. RHUBARB, ORANGE
& ROSEMARY CAKE
Download our new enhanced
@threeblueducks SERVES 8
App for Cook Mode

120g unsalted butter, softened

3/4 cup (155g) raw sugar, plus 3 tsp extra
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1/2 cup (50g) almond meal

Finely grated zest of 1/2 orange,

plus juice of 1 orange
2 /3 cup (100g) plain flour

1 tsp baking powder

250g rhubarb stems, cut into 2cm pieces
1 rosemary sprig, broken into pieces
Creme fraiche, to serve

Preheat oven to 200°C. Grease and line

a 16cm x 25cm rectangular cake pan
with baking paper.
Beat butter and sugar until thick and
pale. Slowly add egg, adding 1 tbs almond
meal before the final amount of egg. Stir in
orange zest and juice. In a separate bowl,
combine flour, baking powder, 1 tsp salt
and remaining almond meal, then fold into
batter. Spoon batter into pan. Dot rhubarb
and rosemary over the top, then sprinkle
over extra sugar. Bake for 45-50 minutes
until a skewer comes out clean. Set aside
to cool. Serve with creme fraiche.

The Blue Ducks’

Real Food (Plum,
$39.99), by
Mark Labrooy
and Darren
Robertson,
is available
in bookshops
nationally.

40 delicious.
 RS O
YEA F
royaldoulton.com.au 00 R
O
2

1300 852 022

YA
G
R AT I N

L D
O U LT O

royaldoultonau
LEB

RoyalDoultonAU
CE

• •
18 5
royaldoultonau 15 - 201
 HOTSPOT.
STYLING LUCY TWEED

besser Sydney’s A Tavola team are spreading their cool cucina to

WHERE 3/355 Crown St, Surry Hills with Besser, where you’ll feel like one of the family.
Surry Hills, NSW;
(02) 9331 1611. POLPETTE (MEATBALLS) chilli for 1 minute or until fragrant. Add
WHO Besser is the latest SERVES 4 passata, stock and basil, increase heat
WORDS SHANNON HARLEY LOCATION PHOTOGRAPHY ALANA DIMOU FOOD PHOTOGRAPHY PRUE RUSCOE

to high and bring to the boil. Reduce

Polpette: ‘Red Cinnabar’ deep enamel plate and, ‘Pearl Grey’ enamel dinner plate both by Variopinte, Citta Design.

offering from Sydney’s A

Tavola crew – Eugenio Maiale, 2 tbs extra virgin olive oil heat to low and add oregano. Cook,
Ennio Di Marcos, Sandro di 1/2 onion, finely chopped stirring occasionally, for 45-60 minutes
Marino and Luke Randall. 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped until thickened. Remove from heat and
THE BUZZ The informal vibe 3 slices mild pancetta, roughly chopped discard basil. Stir through remaining
is inspired by the backyard 1 anchovy fillet in oil, drained, chopped 1/4 cup (60ml) oil. Season.

parties the boys grew up 1 rosemary sprig Heat oil in a frypan over low heat.
with in their family homes, 1/3 cup (80ml) dry white wine Cook onion, stirring, for 8-10 minutes
which explains the besser 11/2 slices (50g) ciabatta, crusts removed until softened. Add the garlic, pancetta,
blocks holding up the bar 100ml milk anchovy and rosemary, and cook for
and laminex tables. 150g each pork, veal and chicken mince 8-10 minutes until tender. Add wine,
THE MENU All the classic 1/3 cup (25g) finely grated parmesan and cook for 3-5 minutes until liquid
dishes your Italian neighbour 1/2 tsp freshly grated nutmeg evaporates. Transfer to a bowl and
would pass over the fence... Chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves, discard rosemary. Set aside to cool.
generous meatballs, fried to serve Meanwhile, preheat oven to 160°C.
garlicky sardines and a To make polpette, tear ciabatta into small
daily risotto cooked to SALSA AL POMODORO pieces, then soak in milk for 5 minutes.
order from 6.30pm. 1/2 cup (125ml) extra virgin olive oil Squeeze out excess milk, discarding milk.
For stockist details, see Directory, p 158.

THE DRINKS Good-quality 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped Add ciabatta to onion mixture. Add mince,
tap wine served in carafes 1/2 tsp dried chilli flakes parmesan and nutmeg, season and stir to
alongside bottles from 2 x 650ml jars tomato passata combine. Roll into walnut-sized balls and
Australia and Italy. 1 cup (250ml) chicken stock place in a baking dish. Top with pomodoro
MUST-EAT Kick things 1/2 bunch basil, stalks and leaves intact and cover with foil. Bake for 40 minutes,
off with hefty meatballs 1 tsp dried oregano then remove foil and bake for a further
showered in parmesan and a 10 minutes or until sauce is very thick.
glass of sangiovese while you For the pomodoro, heat 1/4 cup (60ml) oil Divide polpette and sauce among
wait for the risotto to cook. in a pan over medium heat. Cook garlic and bowls and top with parsley.

delicious. 43
HOTSPOT.

bacaro
WHERE 7 Lonsdale St,
Braddon, ACT;
(02) 6162 4888.
WHO Canberra restaurateurs
the Trimboli brothers wanted
a bar where diners could
have an aperitivo before
dinner, so they bought the
Down a laneway in hip Braddon lies the Trimboli family’s latest bike shop next door to their
venture, Bacaro – an old-school wine bar with serious food appeal. Italian & Sons restaurant
and Bacaro was born.

FOOD PHOTOGRAPHY PRUE RUSCOE STYLING LUCY TWEED

EGGPLANT PARMIGIANA Reduce oven to 160°C. Heat remaining THE BUZZ Low-lighting and
SERVES 4-6 2 tbs oil in a large saucepan over medium a sleek Italian marble bar set
heat. Add garlic and cook for 1-2 minutes the scene for Canberra’s
1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil until fragrant. Add tomatoes and cook best-dressed, who sip on
750g baby eggplants, cut lengthways for a further 10 minutes or until thickened. a negroni or Italian vini
into 1cm-thick slices Remove from heat and add basil. Season. listed in chalk on the wall.
5 garlic cloves, crushed Set aside and keep warm. THE MENU Drink-friendly
3 x 400g cans peeled tomatoes To assemble the parmigiana, spread plates of house-made salumi,
1/4 cup chopped basil leaves, plus extra a thin layer of warm tomato sauce over Italian cured meats and
whole leaves to serve the base of a 20cm x 30cm baking dish. doughy fried pillows
400g bocconcini, drained, sliced Top with a layer of eggplant, then top of gnocco fritto.
2 cups (160g) finely grated parmesan, with another layer of tomato sauce and THE DRINKS It’s a Cinzano
plus extra to serve one-third bocconcini, parmesan and and Dubonnet revival on
200g ricotta ricotta. Repeat layers twice more, the aperitivo front, while
finishing with a final layer of cheeses. wines are sourced from
Preheat oven to 180°C. Brush both Cover the dish with foil and bake for
WORDS SHANNON HARLEY

Venice to Sicily and sold by

sides of eggplant with 1 tbs olive oil. 25 minutes, then remove foil and bake the glass, carafe or bottle.
Season, then arrange in a single layer for a further 25 minutes or until golden MUST-EAT Don’t save room.
on a baking paper-lined baking tray. and bubbling. Remove from oven and Eat all the gnocco fritto
Roast, turning once, for 35-40 minutes set aside for 10 minutes. on your antipasti board!
until golden and cooked through. Garnish with whole basil leaves
Download our new enhanced
Remove from oven, set aside to cool. and serve with extra parmesan. App for Cook Mode

44 delicious.
DRINKS.

time to SALUTI
Mike Bennie works on his Italian accent to reveal the lesser-known grape
varieties packing real punch in Australia and the winemakers behind them.

family ties CORIOLE FIANO 2015,

$25 McLaren Vale’s Coriole
FRATELLI D’ANNA
ROSSO DI MONTALCINO
Nebbiolo, sangiovese, montepulciano, winery was one of the first 2013, $50 The Fratelli
sagrantino... they’re just a few of the
Australian producers to work family travel to Italy regularly
talked-about Italian-accented grape
varieties making waves in Australia. with Italian grape varieties. and have picked out a small
It’s a quiet revolution, but one that They don’t disappoint with parcel of wine to bottle
we’re welcoming; said grapes seem this seriously refreshing, under their own colourful
to work better with our food culture. easy drinking, lightly nutty label. Made from sangiovese
White grapes like vermentino and
white wine produced from in Tuscany, it’s a savoury red
fiano tend to have vivacious perfumes
and crisp acidity that lend themselves the fiano grape variety. The built for gourmet pizza and
to seafood, while also handling the drop pairs superbly with bistecca alla Fiorentina
zingy flavour of Thai and Chinese. pesce crudo (raw fish). (Florentine T-bone steak).
Medium-bodied, tannin-driven,
savoury red wines of Italian origin are
also on point. While Australia might
have a love and wealth of bombastic, CASTAGNA CLASSIC AMATO VINO
muscular red wines made from shiraz DRY VERMOUTH, $45 TEROLDEGO 2013, $40
and cabernet, it’s nebbiolo and nero The Castagna family trace Teroldego is a grape that
d’avola that are proving to be perfect their roots back to Italy hails from Italy’s northeast,
foils for our love of barbecued foods
but have made their life in but thanks to yoga-loving
and fuss-free pasta nights at home.
We’re lucky in Australia to have Beechworth, Victoria, on surfer-cum-winemaker
had such great influence from Italian their biodynamically farmed Brad Wehr it’s found a home
immigrants. The Snowy Mountains vineyards. With its exotic in laidback Margaret River.
Hydro-electric Scheme was led by aromas, and citrusy, spicy Brad’s pleasingly sour-sweet
Italian labourers who then settled in
botanical characters, their teroldego has firm, chewy
King Valley, Victoria, before turning
to farming and grape growing. Since new-release vermouth tastes tannins, dark fruitiness and
then, families like the Pizzinis and wicked in a negroni. a dusting of spice.
Dal Zottos have been at the helm
of Italian-accented Australian wines.
Australian-Italian immigrants also
DAL ZOTTO PUCINO BIRRA DEL BORGO
brought with them a culture of food
and wine. Take the D’Anna family, PROSECCO NV, $22
who have been working with wine The Dal Zotto family of King
for more than 50 years and run Valley, Victoria, produce a
Melbourne’s gourmet supermarket super range of prosecco
Boccaccio Cellars, for example.
very worthy of attention.
Families like this are intrinsic to the
modern face of Australia’s food and This wine is fruity and vibrant
wine culture. Under their influence, with crunchy, refreshing
wine is no longer about getting your bubbles and an apply-tasting
booze on, but rather rounding out finish. For a killer spritz, add
and value adding to our meals.
a splash of Campari. (See
Locavore, p 150, for Christian
@mikerism101 Dal Zotto’s guide to the area).

46 delicious.
Please drink responsibly

The matriarch.

New Vintage Release

Patricia 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
You can’t raise four boys on love alone. So, in honour of the Brown family
You also need discipline, attention to matriarch, we release only the best
detail, and the intuition to know when to of the best vintages under her name.
not interfere. That was Patricia Brown’s When we release a Patricia vintage,
way. And it’s the same methodology we you can be sure that it’s wine of the
use to create our wines. highest quality. Wine that, we believe,
would have made Patricia proud. www.brownbrothers.com.au
MEAT MARKET.

VEAL GIRELLO WITH POLENTA

AND PEA & BROAD BEAN SALAD
SERVES 4-6
You will need a meat thermometer.

2.5L (10 cups) milk

1 onion, halved
11/4 cups (100g) finely grated
parmesan, rind reserved
1/2 garlic bulb, smashed

1 bay leaf
1/2 bunch thyme

1kg veal girello fillet, trimmed

Micro cress and red garnet, to garnish

PEA & BROAD BEAN SALAD

CHEF BUTCHER
1 cup (120g) fresh peas
1 cup (150g) podded broad beans
1 tbs white wine vinegar
2 tbs extra virgin olive oil
An Irish guy making polenta? Never one to follow the rule book,
1 tsp Dijon mustard
Colin Fassnidge is put to the test this month by Vic’s Meat 1 tbs finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
butcher Anthony Puharich, who throws the classic veal cut leaves
girello on the butcher’s block.
POLENTA
A So, it’s the Italian issue… strictly Italian. To be honest, the silverside is 2 /3cup (110g) instant polenta
C How does that work? We’re not Italian. the cut that people think is ordinary, which 20g unsalted butter
A Should it be the Irish issue? is why the Irish pumped it with a salty brine 11/4 cups (100g) grated parmesan
C Ha! I always argue with [Italian chef Guy] – that’s where they got their corned beef
Grossi. He’ll talk about some dish that’s from. They added some colcannon and Combine milk, onion, parmesan and
steeped in history, and I’ll tell him it’s just thought they invented food [laughs]! rind, garlic, bay and thyme in a pan over
beef and mash, but the Italians have built C Hey, I love colcannon! medium heat. Season and simmer for
this story around it. We’ve got the same A Veal is one of those cuts that is tender, 5 minutes. Reduce heat to medium low.
recipe in Ireland, we just don’t romanticise but there’s not much flavour, and that’s why Add veal, adding more milk to cover if
it – because we’re busy pushing on! Australians don’t eat so much of it because necessary. Cook for 15 20 minutes until

INTERVIEW SHANNON HARLEY PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY SHARYN CAIRNS

A That’s a stretch comparing Irish we love our robust cuts of lamb and beef. veal reaches 48°C. Remove from pan
history with Italian history. You need to cook veal in a way that imparts and rest, loosely covered with foil, for
C Yeah, we’re way ahead. We’re Vikings! a lot of flavour to make the most of it. 10 minutes. Strain milk, reserving 2 cups
A So you’re starving and eating potatoes C When I cook veal, I poach it in milk. I can’t (500ml). Discard solids.
For polenta, place reserved milk in a

PHOTOGRAPHY JEREMY SIMONS STYLING LUCY TWEED

in the cold, while the Italians are having a throw the poaching liquid away – it would
good time drinking wine and eating cheese. kill me. So I’ve used it to make polenta. pan over medium high heat and bring
What have you got? U2 and that’s it. A You used the milk you cooked the veal to the boil. Reduce heat to low, add
C How many Italian bands are at the top in as a base for the polenta? That’s clever. polenta and cook, stirring constantly,
of their game? There you go. C It’s the no-waste, nose-to-tail philosophy for 5 minutes or until creamy. Stir in
A Back to the meat. What did you think taken to another level. The same way you’d butter and parmesan. Season.
when you heard it was the Italian issue? never throw your pan juices or broth away. For the salad, blanch peas and broad
C Osso buco, meatballs, bolognese… A Look, he’s an environmentalist, too! beans in a pan of boiling salted water
A Exactly. So I steered clear of the obvious C Yeah, I also drink it and bathe in it! for 1 2 minutes until tender. Drain and
choices. Girello is from the silverside – one A Do you know I’ve met a lot of Italians with refresh under cold water. In a separate
of the four leg muscles. It’s a classic Italian red hair and many have Irish blood, so you bowl, whisk remaining ingredients
cut used to make vitello tonnato, but it’s not might be closer to polenta than you think! together. Drizzle over peas and beans.
Serve polenta topped with thinly
@cfassnidge @colinfassnidge @askthebutcher_ @askthebutcher_ sliced veal, salad and micro herbs.

48 delicious.
BUTCHER’S CUT

Girello is cut from the veal

hind leg and makes up one of
the three main muscles of the
veal silverside. Also known
as the eye round, the Italians
love to poach girello in milk
for vitello tonnato, crumb it to
make schnitzel or scallopini,
or pair it with sage and cheese
for saltimbocca. Order ahead
from your butcher and
remember you can use any
trimmings to make stock.
Download our new enhanced
App for Cook Mode
you’re invited to
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MIKE MCENEARNEY.

SCRATCH
Nutella can be guilt-free, says Mike McEnearney, who
shares his healthy version of this Italian-born spread.
PHOTOGRAPHY BRETT STEVENS STYLING LUCY TWEED

NUTELLA WAS FIRST developed as an 100g extra virgin coconut oil NUTELLA SCROLLS
affordable luxury product in the 1940s by 100ml maple syrup MAKES 10
Pietro Ferrero. Cocoa had been in short
supply after World War II, and Pietro Soak hazelnuts in water overnight. 375g Careme All Butter Puff Pastry,
sought a way to extend the small amounts The next day, drain and rinse well. thawed
of cocoa available by combining it with a Place hazelnuts in a food processor 50g healthy raw nutella
sweet paste made from hazelnuts, which and whiz until fine. Add 1/4 tsp salt and 1/4 cup (35g) hazelnuts, roughly chopped

were abundant in Italy’s Piedmont region. pulse to combine. Add 1/4 cup (25g)
It was originally sold as a solid block, cacao and whiz to combine, then add CREME PATISSIERE
however in 1951 a spreadable version 25g coconut oil, and whiz until combined. 1/2vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped
called Supercrema was created. This Repeat, alternating between cacao and or 1 tsp vanilla bean paste
version extended its use further, allowing coconut oil, and scraping down sides of 100ml milk
people to enjoy it on bread, and at an bowl, until combined. Add maple syrup 1 tbs cornflour
accessible price. In 1964 the Supercrema in a thin stream to form a paste. If mixture 1 egg
version was rebranded to Nutella by splits, add warm water, 1-2 tbs at a time, 2 tbs caster sugar
Pietro’s son, Michele. It was an instant with the motor running to bring back
success and meant that chocolate was together. Place in an airtight container For creme patissiere, combine vanilla pod
no longer reserved for special occasions and store. and seeds, and 80ml milk in a pan over
such as Easter or Christmas. medium-low heat and bring to just below
Nutella, like most treats, is laden RAW NUTELLA BARS boiling point. Remove from heat and
with processed sugar. I’ve always been MAKES 10 discard vanilla pod. Combine cornflour
conscious of the amount of sugar my Store in an airtight container and remaining 1 tbs milk in a bowl. Add
family consumes, so I created my healthy for up to 1 week. egg and sugar, and whisk until pale. Pour
nutella to not only reduce our sugar warm milk into egg mixture, whisking to
intake, but to derive the health benefits 1/3 cup (55g) almonds combine. Return to saucepan and place
that cacao, virgin coconut oil and maple 2 tbs each pumpkin seeds (pepitas), over medium-low heat. Cook, whisking
syrup deliver in their purest forms. sunflower seeds and linseeds constantly, for 3-4 minutes until thick and
I certainly don’t feel guilty about 1/2 cup (50g) almond meal smooth. Transfer to a bowl and cover with
spreading my healthy version on a 75g desiccated coconut, plus 1 tbs extra plastic wrap. Chill for 20 minutes.
baguette in the morning and feel even 400g healthy raw nutella Preheat oven to 200°C. On a lightly
less guilty about it going into my cooking. floured work surface, roll out pastry into a
Whiz almonds, pumpkin and sunflower 30cm x 30cm square. Spread evenly with
HEALTHY RAW NUTELLA seeds in a small food processor until nutella, then spread with creme patissiere.
MAKES 400G roughly chopped. Combine with linseeds, Roll up the pastry into a loose swiss roll.
Begin this recipe 1 day ahead. Store at almond meal, coconut and nutella. Freeze for 15 minutes to firm up. Slice into
room temperature for up to 1 week. Line a 10cm x 20cm loaf pan with plastic 10 even rounds and place cut-side up on
wrap. Press mixture into pan and sprinkle a baking paper-lined baking tray. Flatten
2 /3
cup (100g) hazelnuts over extra coconut. Cover with plastic slightly, then scatter with hazelnuts. Bake
1 cup (100g) cacao powder wrap and chill for 30 minutes or until firm. for 20-25 minutes until golden.

52 delicious.
 STEP-BY-STEP
1. Soaking or ‘activating’
hazelnuts will not only
make them plump, juicy
and easy to form into a
paste, it also makes them
easier to digest. Soak for
at least 8 hours.
2. Using a food processor
for the healthy raw nutella,
1 alternate between adding
cacao and coconut oil.
3. Add maple syrup in a
thin stream to form a paste.
4. Store nutella in an
airtight container at room
temperature for 1 week.
5. This raw nutella is so
versatile it can be used for
all sorts of healthy snacks,
spread on fresh baguettes
and even as icing for a cake.

DID YOU KNOW?

• Cacao (ground raw
cocoa beans) is ranked the
3 fourth most nutrient-rich
food on earth.
4 5 • Cacao is an antioxidant,
high in minerals, especially
magnesium.
• Virgin coconut oil contains
good fatty acids, supports
immunity and eases digestion.
• An unrefined sweetener,
maple syrup has several
antibacterial properties.

Download our new enhanced

App for Cook Mode
I’M LOVING.

PASTA
For centuries before Italy existed, cultures worldwide were proudly making pasta,
says Matt Preston, who uncovers a treasure trove of inspired ‘pasta’ dishes.

WHILE THE ITALIANS MIGHT CLAIM that there are over RICOTTA GNOCCHI WITH BRUSSELS
310 different pasta forms, there are probably far more pasta dishes SPROUTS, BACON AND ALMONDS
that aren’t Italian. Especially given that many of the more famous shapes SERVES 2
and guises, such as pasta bake (pasticcio), dried pasta and gnocchi,
were originally Greek, Palestinian or Arab. 400g fresh firm ricotta
You’ll find Arab-born pasta dishes across the Mediterranean, whether 1/4 cup (35g) plain flour, plus extra to dust

a Valencian fideua (a seafood paella made with short thin spaghettini-like 50g unsalted butter, chopped
noodles rather than calasparra rice) or Egyptian kushari (a street-food 2 tbs extra virgin olive oil
favourite with macaroni dancing among rice, lentils and caramelised onions). 8 rashers streaky smoked bacon,
In fact, in the 15th century the common name for noodles wasn’t ‘pasta’ cut into 3cm pieces
but ‘vermicelli’ and these skinny noodles span the world, too. Today, 300g Brussels sprouts, shaved using
vermicelli noodles appear in India as crunchy fried sev or cooked in a mandoline
coconut milk to make a sweet kheer pudding and pop up in other 1/2 cup (50g) sliced natural or flaked almonds

parts of Asia as Hokkien bee hoon, Burmese kya zan and Vietnamese bun. Micro parsley and grated parmesan, to serve
It isn’t just ramen, soba and udon (all inspired by China’s la mian noodles)
that fly the pasta flag in Asia. For me, some of the greatest ‘pastas that ain’t Preheat oven to 100°C. Line a baking tray or
Italian’ come out of Asia, from an Indonesian mie goreng and Thai laksa plate with paper towel, crumble over ricotta,
to Malaysian fried char kway teow. Then there’s Sichuan dan dan mian, then top with more baking paper and press to

STYLING KIRSTEN BOOKALIL

a tangle of snowy noodles doused in a hot pepper-spiced mince sauce remove excess moisture. Transfer ricotta to
that can sometimes look like bolognese without a tomatoey blush. a bowl and sprinkle over flour. Using your
In the US, second and third generation American-Chinese might scoop fingers, gently pull to form a dough. If mixture
peanut butter onto their dan-dan noodles and this leads us neatly to a whole is very sticky, add an extra 1-2 tsp flour.
other category of pasta that isn’t Italian: stuff that’s new and fusiony. Place butter in a baking dish in oven until
If you’re trendy, here you’ll point to cool ‘new pastas’ like David Chang’s needed. Bring a large pan of water to the
recipe for gnocchi made from two-minute noodles, or post-Korean War stews boil, then reduce heat to medium and keep
at a simmer. Divide dough into 4, then roll

PHOTOGRAPHY JEREMY SIMONS

that mix ramen noodles with hot dogs or Spam. Then there’s the delicious
taramasalata-tasting mentaiko spaghetti from Japan that takes the pasta and each portion on a lightly floured work surface
coats it in a mix of Korean chilli fish roe, Japanese mayo and melted butter. into a 3cm-thick sausage (avoid adding more
To be brutal, not even what we call spag bol is Italian. It’s actually a flour when rolling). Cut each sausage into
bastardised emigre version of a tagliatelle ragu that has become so popular 1cm-thick slices, then place on 4 small sheets
overseas that it’s classed as a ‘national’ dish alongside chops and peas in of baking paper. Carefully lift one sheet,
Australia, chicken tikka masala in Britain and herrings in Scandinavia. gently slipping gnocchi into water and cook
So, here is my pasta that isn’t Italian: ricotta gnocchi with shaved Brussels until they rise to surface. Cook for a further
sprouts, smoked bacon and almonds. Like I mentioned, gnocchi is an Arab 30 seconds or until just cooked, then drain.
WORDS & RECIPE MATT PRESTON

invention, while the use of ricotta dates back to the 1st century AD when Transfer to baking dish with butter and keep
Sicily, an Arab emirate at the time, began making the cheese. Potato warm in oven. Repeat with remaining gnocchi.
gnocchi is a later version Italy can claim – but even they acknowledge Heat oil in a frypan over medium heat. Add
that the concept returned from the Middle East with legionnaires bacon and cook for 3-4 minutes until crispy.
who’d been stationed there. Add Brussels sprouts, season and cook for
2-3 minutes until wilted and slightly golden.
Serve gnocchi, sprouts, bacon and pan juices
Download our new enhanced
@mattscravat @mattscravat scattered with nuts, parsley and parmesan.
App for Cook Mode

54 delicious.
Copper glass by Serax, Beautiful Spaces; rectangular cheese platter in marble,
Koskela; ‘Goa’ fork in white and matte 24-carat gold by Cutipol, Francalia; and peasant
bowl in satin by Batch, Crave Wares. For stockist details, see Directory, p 158.
INNOVATORS.

h n
A gobsmacked Anthony Huckstep joins a Tuscan chef who’s throwing
out the rule book when it comes to making the perfect risotto.

LET’S FACE IT, our recent obsession with Well, let’s first look at risotto. Traditionally you sweat the onion,
Frankenfoods not only flies in the face of toast the rice, add acidity such as wine, cook out the alcohol,
and then get busy adding stock and stirring to release the starch.
You repeat until it’s ready, giving it your undivided attention.
pie-stuffed pizzas... When I feel like a pie I don’t usually In front of Marco is a pot of uncooked rice. Next to that is a
reach for the phone and order a pizza. But, sticking to tradition pot of boiling water. No onion. No stock. No roasted rice. No oil.
inhibits the opportunity to discover something new I hear you say. He warms the rice, then adds the boiling water: three parts water,
A lack of tradition has allowed Australian winemakers the one part rice. He puts a lid on it and sets a timer for 10 minutes.
freedom to throw caution to the wind. It’s resulted in some He looks me in the eye: “Now, we wait”. Wait, what? He’s boiling
smashing grape juice, and the world has taken note. Given the the rice. This surely can’t be nice.
right circumstances, perhaps tradition should be challenged. Marco uses Acquerello brand carnaroli. It’s an unhusked rough
What history has taught us is that no matter the technique, rice that’s aged for more than a year before it’s peeled. He believes
there is one ingredient that makes the difference in food: love. the natural flavour, through ageing, is lost if you roast the rice,
Who knew this gruff guy could be so warm and fuzzy, right? or let it soak up the flavours of a stock. The point is to cook the
The truth is, one can taste love and passion in food. rice without agitating it. Essentially, preventing it releasing the
If ever a dish required ‘love and attention’, it is, of course, starch – the key to risotto’s texture.
risotto. That’s right, MasterChef’s so called “death dish” is like The buzzer goes off. He lifts the lid. “Perfect,” he declares.
a big cuddle from nonna. But you’ve got to work for it. Or do you? The other elements – onion, butter, cheese or whatever you please
– are prepared independently and stirred in just before
plating, with some real elbow grease. The vigorous
action releases the starches quickly from the cooked
rice and within three minutes you have risotto.
The approach spawned from his desire to create
the texture of risotto, but to be able to enjoy the
flavour of the actual rice, not the stock. Most people
would be none the wiser.
While in Tuscany to report on the S.Pellegrino Young Chef 2015 His risotto with ‘forest soil’ is deep black courtesy
competition, I was invited into the kitchen with Michelin-starred of blackened vegetal carbon. Some 37 dehydrated
chef Marco Stabile, of Ora d’Aria, for a crash course in love, er, I and ground vegetables are added during the final
mean risotto making. I’m greeted by a gentle giant who looks a moments and include fennel, white asparagus,
little like Harry Potter’s Rubeus Hagrid. What I soon discover, to my

STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS

almonds, porcini mushrooms, sesame oil and butter.
surprise, is a touch of risotto wizardry that snubs its nose at tradition. It smells like a forest.
“I make it completely opposite to the traditional way,” he says. On the palate it feels like a delicate risotto, not the
Mamma mia! We’re in risottoland – is he mad? “But what do intense ‘marmalade’ texture you expect. It’s nuttier
traditionalists say?” I ask. “They don’t like before they taste,” he and yet the added ingredients are front of mind. I may
admits. “Then they taste and they like,” he says, laughing from deep have been expecting old-school risotto with a loving
within his belly. Hang on. I thought I was tapping into the culinary nonna embrace, but Marco’s brave new bear hug
gods’ age-old traditions. Who is this wild child? What’s he on about? certainly got my attention.
PHOTOGRAPHY PETRINA TINSLAY

@huckstergram @anthuckstep

56 delicious.
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B ES T IN CL A SS

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THE INNOVATION
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With the trend for open-plan living and entertaining, a powerful rangehood
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THE INNOVATION
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After a family dinner or post-party, a cutting-edge dishwasher will make
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 savour
THE NEW ITALIAN COLLECTION 72 | VEG SUPREME WITH JAMIE 80
10 FAST PASTAS 88 | RICK STEIN’S MEDITERRANEAN CRUISE 98
FATHER’S DAY BRUNCH 106 | HEALTHY DESSERTS 122
delicious. 71
 the
ON TREND.

NEW
ITALI
While there will always be a place in our hearts (and stomachs)
for bolognese, renaissance master Phoebe Wood reboots the
classics to create a new line-up of must-cook Italian dishes.
PHOTOGRAPHY BRETT STEVENS STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS

Download our new enhanced

@phoeberosewood
App for Cook Mode
 Gnocco fritto with
rosemary salt (recipe p 79)

delicious. 73
74 delicious.
 ON TREND.

CHEAT’S BACCALA MANTECATO

WITH FENNEL OIL
SERVES 6 AS A STARTER
This cheat’s version of a classic Venetian
cicchetti (bar snack) makes the perfect
salty and creamy starter.

400g can cannellini beans, rinsed, drained

15 marinated white anchovies in vinegar
(boquerones), drained
2 garlic cloves, crushed
Juice of 1 lemon
1/3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil

1 cup (280g) thick Greek-style yoghurt

Fennel fronds and grissini, to serve

FENNEL OIL
1/4cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil
2 tsp fennel seeds, toasted

For fennel oil, heat oil and fennel seeds in

a small saucepan over medium-low heat
for 3 minutes or until fragrant. Remove
from heat and set aside to cool.
Whiz the cannellini beans, anchovies,
garlic, lemon juice and oil in a food
processor until very smooth. Whisk in
the yoghurt to combine. Season. Spread
onto a serving dish and drizzle with
fennel oil. Top with fennel fronds and
freshly ground black pepper. Serve with Heirloom tomato, radish & yoghurt
grissini on the side. flatbread panzanella. OPPOSITE: cheat‘s
baccala mantecato with fennel oil.
HEIRLOOM TOMATO, RADISH
& YOGHURT FLATBREAD
PANZANELLA 6 mixed radishes (we used French For the yoghurt flatbreads, combine all
SERVES 8 AS A STARTER breakfast, baby and Champagne ingredients in a bowl with 1 tsp salt
Panzanella is a traditional Tuscan varieties), thinly sliced flakes. Stir to form a dough, then cover
salad which features stale chunks of bread 6 radicchio leaves, torn with a clean tea towel and set aside
and tomatoes soaked in a vinegary 1/2 cup (75g) broad beans, for 20 minutes to rest.
dressing. This version has doughy blanched, podded Heat a chargrill pan or frypan over
yoghurt flatbreads that are perfect 1/2 cup micro basil leaves, to serve medium-high heat. Divide the dough into
for mopping up the tangy dressing. 8 equal portions and roll out to 8mm thick.
YOGHURT FLATBREADS Cook, in batches, in a dry pan for 3 minutes,
1 garlic clove, crushed 22 /3 cups (400g) self-raising flour turning once, or until golden and charred.
1 eschalot, finely chopped 1 tsp baking powder Whisk the garlic, eschalot, vinegar and
2 tbs red wine vinegar 1/2 cup (40g) finely grated parmesan oil in a bowl. Season.
2 tbs extra virgin olive oil 1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil Place flatbreads on a board and top with
5 mixed heirloom tomatoes, thinly sliced 1 tsp red wine vinegar tomato, radish, radicchio, broad beans
10 heirloom cherry tomatoes, halved 11/4 cups (350g) thick Greek-style yoghurt and basil. Drizzle with dressing to serve.
 Transfer to a board and repeat with
remaining oil and batter to make 6 crepes.
Cut crepes into thick ribbons. Set aside.
For the pesto, using a mortar and pestle,
pound garlic, anchovies and parsley to a
paste. Add almonds and roughly crush,
then stir through lemon juice, oil, and
tomato. Season well.
Blanch the testaroli in a saucepan of
boiling salted water over high heat for
1 minute or until they start to float to the
surface. Remove with a slotted spoon and
drain briefly on paper towel.
Toss the testaroli with pesto, then
divide among plates. Serve topped
with parmesan and micro parsley.

SFINCIONE WITH CAVOLO NERO,

SPECK AND PECORINO
SERVES 6
Sfincione, a thick foccacia-style Sicilian
pizza traditionally served with onions,
anchovies and a grating of cheese, is the
original deep-dish pizza. Cavolo nero and
smoky speck are the perfect addition.

1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil

2 onions, thinly sliced

100g speck, chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1/2 cup (125ml) tomato passata (sugo)

1/2 bunch (about 130g) cavolo nero,

finely shredded, blanched, refreshed

1 cup (70g) fresh breadcrumbs
1 cup (80g) finely grated pecorino

SFINCIONE DOUGH
2 x 7g sachets dried instant yeast
TESTAROLI WITH ALMOND, 1/4 cup flat-leaf parsley leaves, 1 tbs caster sugar
TOMATO & GARLIC PESTO roughly chopped 3 cups (450g) plain flour
SERVES 4 1/2 cup (80g) roasted almonds 1/3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil

Testaroli are crepes made from a basic flour Juice of 1 lemon

water batter, fried and cut into thick 1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil For sfincione dough, place yeast, sugar
freeform strips – the ultimate no-roll pasta. 250g heirloom cherry tomatoes, halved and 1/2 cup (125ml) warm water in a bowl.
Set aside for 5 minutes or until frothy.
2 cups (300g) plain flour To make testaroli, sift flour into a bowl with Place flour in the bowl of an electric mixer
1 tbs extra virgin olive oil a pinch of salt. Gradually whisk in 23/4 cups fitted with a dough hook. Add yeast
Finely grated parmesan and micro (685ml) lukewarm water to form a smooth mixture and 200ml warm water, and
parsley, to serve batter. Brush a 24cm crepe pan with 1 tsp knead on medium speed for 6 minutes
oil and place over medium-high heat. Add or until smooth and elastic. Place dough
ALMOND, TOMATO & GARLIC PESTO 1 ladle batter, swirling to form a thin crepe. in a lightly oiled bowl and cover with a
2 garlic cloves Cook for 1-2 minutes, then flip and cook for clean tea towel. Set aside in a warm place
4 anchovies in oil, drained a further 1 minute or until very light golden. for 11/2 hours or until doubled in size.
 ON TREND.

Sfincione with cavolo nero,

speck and pecorino.
OPPOSITE: testaroli
with almond, tomato
& garlic pesto.

delicious. 77
The new lemon tart
 ON TREND.

“MY LEMON TART HAS AN EASY NUT CRUST,

THICK LEMON FILLING AND LASHINGS OF SILKY
ITALIAN MERINGUE SWIRLED ON TOP.”

Knock back the dough, then return to ROSEMARY SALT 4 eggs

cleaned mixer. Knead on medium speed, 2 tsp salt flakes 350g caster sugar
gradually adding the oil, 1 tbs at a time, 2 tsp dried rosemary leaves 300ml double cream
until completely combined. Return to
a lightly oiled bowl and cover with a clean Place the yeast, sugar and 1/4 cup (60ml) ITALIAN MERINGUE
tea towel. Set aside in a warm place for a lukewarm water in a bowl and set aside 3 eggwhites, at room temperature
further 11/2 hours or until doubled in size. for 5 minutes or until frothy. Place flour in 2 /3
cup (150g) caster sugar
Meanwhile, heat 2 tbs oil in a frypan over an electric mixer fitted with a dough hook.
medium-low heat. Add onion and 1 tsp salt, Add yeast mixture, milk, lard and 1 tsp salt. For the lemon filling, place the lemon zest
and cook, stirring, for 15 minutes or until Knead for 5 minutes or until smooth and and juice, eggs and sugar in a bowl and
very soft. Add speck and garlic, and cook, elastic. Set aside in a lightly oiled bowl and whisk to combine. Gently whisk in the
stirring, for a further 5 minutes or until cover with a tea towel. Set aside in a warm cream and set aside.
golden and lightly caramelised. Remove place for 11/2 hours or until doubled in size. Preheat the oven to 180°C. For the
from heat and set aside to cool. Meanwhile, for the salt, combine hazelnut crust, place all ingredients in a
Preheat oven to 180°C. Line a large rosemary and salt in a bowl. Set aside. bowl and stir to combine. Using your hands,
napkin in black, Bonnie Neil. Testaroli: small black watercolour plate, Bonnie and Neil. New Lemon Tart: ’Thin Check’ cake dish
‘Cement Encaustic Mod 123’ tiles, Di Lorenzo; ‘MH’ large oval platter with brush stroke, Koskela. Cheat’s baccala: ‘Geometric’
Opener: ’Tartan’ cake dish by Katia Carletti, and ‘Painted Stripes’ black and white linen napkin, both Koskela. Gnoccho fritto:

baking tray with baking paper. Knock back Knock back dough. Roll out on a lightly press the crust into the base and sides of
the dough and place on baking tray. Shape floured surface until 1cm thick. Cut into six a 21cm x 3cm fluted loose-bottomed tart
by Katia Carletti, Koskela; ‘Fantasma’ black and white gloss tiles, Di Lorenzo. For stockist details, see Directory, p 158.

into a 24cm x 30cm rectangle. Spread the 8cm squares and place on a lightly floured pan. Bake for 10 minutes or until just dry.
passata over dough to edges, then scatter baking tray. Set aside in a warm place for Remove from oven and cool.
over the caramelised onion mixture. Bake 30 minutes or until doubled in size. Reduce oven to 120°C. Place cooled tart
for 25 minutes or until golden and just Half-fill a saucepan or deep-fryer with case in its pan on a baking tray. Strain the
cooked through. sunflower oil and heat to 170°C (a cube of lemon mixture, then pour into the tart case.
Squeeze excess water from cavolo nero, bread will turn golden in 30 seconds when Bake for 1 hour 15 minutes or until set with
then toss with breadcrumbs, pecorino oil is hot enough). In batches, cook fritto, a slight wobble in the centre. Cool to room
and remaining 1 tbs oil in a bowl. Season. turning once, for 5 minutes or until golden temperature. Chill for 2 hours or until cold.
Remove sfincione from oven and scatter and cooked through. Drain on paper towel. When ready to serve, make the Italian
over cavolo nero mixture. Bake for a further Scatter with salt. Serve with truffle, meringue. Place sugar in a small pan with
10 minutes or until cheese has just melted. if using, truffle oil, coppa and Taleggio. 150ml water over medium heat, stirring
until sugar dissolves. Bring to a simmer and
GNOCCO FRITTO THE NEW LEMON TART cook for 10 minutes or until mixture reaches
WITH ROSEMARY SALT SERVES 8 115°C on a thermometer. Whisk eggwhites
SERVES 6 AS A STARTER My new lemon tart has an easy nut crust, in an electric mixer on medium speed until
Gnocco fritto, savoury pillows of fried thick lemon filling and lashings of silky soft peaks form. Bring sugar mixture to
yeasted dough, are a moreish alternative Italian meringue swirled on top. You will 121°C (hard-ball stage) and immediately
to crackers on an antipasti plate. need a thermometer and blow torch. remove from heat. With the mixer running,
pour sugar syrup into eggwhite in a thin
7g sachet dried instant yeast 12 /3 cups (250g) hazelnuts, finely ground steady stream. Increase speed to high
Pinch of caster sugar 2 /3 cup (100g) plain flour and continue mixing for 10 minutes or
2 cups (300g) plain flour 1/3 cup (75g) caster sugar until thick, glossy and cool. Transfer to a
150ml lukewarm milk 1 egg, lightly beaten with 1 tbs water piping bag fitted with a plain 1cm nozzle
50g lard, melted and starting from the centre, pipe a thick
Sunflower oil, to deep-fry LEMON FILLING spiral shape over tart. Using a blow torch,
Shaved truffle (optional), truffle oil, thinly Finely grated zest of 3 lemons, plus the caramelise meringue until dark golden.
sliced coppa and Taleggio, to serve juice of 2 lemons Serve immediately.

delicious. 79
Eggplant lasagne. OPPOSITE:
roasted fennel & pine nut polpette
(recipes p 84).
 jamie's
JAMIE OLIVER.

VEGIE HEROES
You won’t miss the meat with Jamie Oliver’s vegetarian
makeover of the classics, including genius meat-free meatballs!
RECIPES GEORGINA HAYDEN STYLING LAURA FYFE PHOTOGRAPHY TOBY SCOTT

delicious. 81
 two-thirds thyme for 1 minute or until
fragrant. Increase heat to medium-high
and add mushrooms and porcini, and
cook for 10-15 minutes until light golden
and liquid has evaporated. Season and
add porcini soaking liquid. Set aside
to cool.
Preheat the oven to 180°C and grease a
32cm x 25cm ovenproof dish. Add ricotta
to the mushroom mixture and stir well to
combine. Divide the mushroom mixture
evenly among the crepes, then fold each
crepe into quarters. Place folded crepes
into dish, overlapping slightly.
Stir the creme fraiche into the leeks
and spoon the mixture over the crepes.
In a bowl, combine the crushed hazelnuts
breadcrumbs, gorgonzola and remaining
thyme. Scatter over crepes, drizzle with
remaining 21/2 tbs oil and cover with foil.
Gorgonzola, Bake for 30 minutes, then remove foil
mushroom & leek and bake for a further 15-20 minutes
crespelle bake
until golden.

INCREDIBLE FARINATA
SERVES 6
Begin this recipe 1 day ahead.

12 /3 cups (250g) chickpea flour

Download our new enhanced App for Cook Mode 100ml extra virgin olive oil
@jamieoliver and bonus content: Jamie's zucchini trifoliate 3 rosemary sprigs, leaves picked

Combine flour and 1 tsp salt in a large

GORGONZOLA, MUSHROOM Soak porcini in just enough boiling water bowl. Gradually whisk in 800ml warm
& LEEK CRESPELLE BAKE to cover for 30 minutes. Drain reserving water until very smooth. Cover with plastic
SERVES 6 1/4 cup (60ml) liquid, and roughly chop. wrap and set aside overnight to ferment.
Meanwhile, whiz flour, egg, milk and The next day, preheat oven to 220°C.
15g dried porcini mushrooms 1/2 tsp salt in a food processor until Skim off any impurities that have risen
1 cup (150g) plain flour smooth. Heat 1 tsp oil in a non-stick to the surface, then whisk in 2 tbs oil.
3 eggs frypan over medium heat. Pour 1/3 cup Heat 11/2 tbs oil in a 30cm ovenproof
300ml milk (80ml) batter into the pan and swirl to frypan over high heat, until almost
1 cup (250ml) olive oil cover base. Cook for 1-2 minutes each smoking. Working quickly, add the
3 leeks, sliced into 1cm rounds side until golden and cooked through. rosemary and fry for 15 seconds. Add
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced Transfer to a plate. Repeat with remaining 2 cups (500ml) batter to come 4mm up
1/2 bunch thyme, leaves roughly batter to make 9 crepes, layering each the side of the frypan. Tilt the pan so it’s
chopped between baking paper to prevent them evenly covered, then cook for 30 seconds
1kg mixed mushrooms (such as chestnut from sticking. or until starting to bubble. Transfer to
and Swiss brown), roughly chopped Return frypan to medium heat with the oven and bake for 10-12 minutes
1 cup (240g) ricotta 1
2 tbs oil. Add leeks and cook, stirring
/2 until crisp and golden on top. Transfer
100g creme fraiche occasionally, for 15-20 minutes until soft. to a plate and keep warm. Repeat with
1/4 cup (35g) hazelnuts, crushed Season. Transfer to a bowl to cool. remaining batter.
11/2 cups (105g) ciabatta breadcrumbs Heat 1/4 cup (60ml) oil in a large frypan Slide each farinata onto a wooden
100g gorgonzola, crumbled over medium heat. Cook the garlic and board and cut into wedges.

82 delicious.
JAMIE OLIVER.

Incredible farinata
JAMIE OLIVER.

EGGPLANT LASAGNE ROASTED FENNEL GARLIC & SPINACH GNOCCHI

SERVES 6-8 & PINE NUT POLPETTE WITH LEMON AND PECORINO
SERVES 4 SERVES 4
3 large eggplants, sliced into 1cm rounds
1/3 cup (80ml) olive oil 1 large fennel bulb (400g), trimmed, cut 8 evenly-sized King Edward potatoes
1 tbs dried oregano into 3cm wedges, fronds reserved 100g (about 25) garlic cloves
4 garlic cloves, crushed 1/2 cup (125ml) extra virgin olive oil 200g baby spinach leaves
1/2 bunch basil, leaves picked, stalks 1 tbs pine nuts 2 cups (300g) plain flour, plus extra
finely chopped 1 tbs pumpkin seeds (pepitas) to dust
1/2 cup (125ml) Italian red wine 1/2 long red chilli, seeds removed, 2 egg yolks
2 x 400g cans whole tomatoes roughly chopped 75g unsalted butter
50g unsalted butter, plus extra to grease 3 garlic cloves Juice of 1/2 lemon
1/3 cup (50g) plain flour 2 /3 cup (50g) grated parmesan 2 /3 cup (50g) grated pecorino,

800ml milk 11/2 cups (105g) fresh breadcrumbs plus extra to serve
1 cup (80g) finely grated parmesan 1 egg yolk
250g instant lasagne sheets 1/2 bunch flat-leaf parsley, leaves picked, Preheat oven to 180°C. Prick potatoes all
125g mozzarella, sliced stalks finely chopped over with a fork. Place on a baking tray and
400g can chopped tomatoes bake for 1 hour or until cooked through.
Preheat oven to 200°C. Place eggplant in 1 tbs balsamic vinegar Meanwhile, sit a steamer over a pan of
a single layer on two baking paper-lined boiling water. Add garlic, then cover and
baking trays. Drizzle with 2 tbs oil, season, Preheat oven to 180°C. Place fennel in steam for 8 minutes. Add 75g spinach
and scatter over oregano. Roast for a roasting pan and drizzle with 1 tbs oil. and steam for a further 2 minutes or
35-40 minutes until cooked through. Season, then roast for 30 minutes. Remove until garlic is tender and spinach is wilted.
Meanwhile, to make the sauce, heat from oven and sprinkle over the pine nuts Transfer to food processor and whiz to a
remaining 2 tbs oil in a saucepan over and pumpkin seeds. Return to oven for a puree. If mixture feels too wet, spoon into
medium heat. Cook garlic and basil stalks further 8-10 minutes until fennel is cooked a muslin or clean tea towel and squeeze
for 1 minute or until fragrant, then add red through and nuts are toasted. out excess liquid. Set aside.
wine. Increase heat to high and bring to Whiz chilli and 2 garlic cloves in a Cool potatoes slightly, then peel and
the boil. Cook for 2-3 minutes until slightly food processor until finely chopped. Add pass through a potato ricer while hot onto
reduced. Add tomatoes and return to the fennel, pine nuts and pumpkin seeds, and a clean work surface. (The potatoes need
boil, season. Reduce heat to medium-low whiz until chopped but still chunky. Add to be hot or the gnocchi will be stodgy.)
and cook for 10 minutes or until slightly parmesan, breadcrumbs and egg yolk. Pile the flour on top of the potato, in a
thickened. Stir in 3/4 basil leaves, tearing Season, then whiz until combined. mound, and season generously. Make a
any large leaves. Remove from heat and Grease a roasting tray with 1 tbs oil. well in the middle. Whisk the egg yolks and
set aside. Squash tomatoes with a fork. Using wet hands, roll the mixture into garlic puree together, then pour into the
To make the bechamel, melt butter in 20 walnut-sized balls. Place on tray. Chill well. Using your hands, lightly bring all the
a saucepan over medium heat. Stir in flour for 15 minutes to firm up. Preheat oven to ingredients together (don’t overwork the
and cook, stirring, for 2-3 minutes until a 200°C. Drizzle polpette with oil and bake mixture or it will become tough). As soon
thick paste. Gradually add milk, whisking for 20-25 minutes until golden and crisp. as it comes together, clean and dry your
constantly until smooth. Reduce heat to Meanwhile, to make tomato sauce, heat hands and worktop for the next step.
low and cook, whisking occasionally, for remaining 2 tbs oil in a pan over medium Roll out gnocchi on a lightly floured
10 minutes or until thick and creamy. Stir heat. Thinly slice remaining garlic clove and surface to a rectangle, 1cm thick. Cut into
through 3/4 parmesan. Season. add to pan with parsley stalks. Cook for 2cm strips, then cut into 2cm pieces.
Grease a 2.6L ovenproof dish. Lay 1-2 minutes, then add tomatoes. Half-fill Bring a large pan of salted water to the
one-third eggplant and tomato sauce over the can with water, then add to pan. Add boil. Shred remaining 125g spinach leaves.
the base, then cover with lasagne sheets balsamic and bring to the boil. Reduce Melt butter in a frypan over low heat and
and one-third bechamel, then another heat to low and cook for 8-10 minutes until add the spinach. Cook gnocchi in two
layer lasagne sheets. Repeat layers twice thickened. Cool slightly, then transfer to batches, for 2-3 minutes until they rise to
more, finishing with a final bechamel layer. a food processor and whiz until smooth. the surface. Remove with a slotted spoon
Sprinkle over remaining parmesan and dot Return to pan. Keep warm. and add to the frypan of spinach. Repeat
with mozzarella. Scatter with basil leaves, Divide sauce among plates. Top with with remaining gnocchi. Add lemon juice,
then bake for 40-45 minutes until bubbling, polpette and sprinkle with chopped grate over pecorino, season and toss
golden and cooked through. parsley and reserved fennel fronds. together. Serve with extra pecorino.

84 delicious.
Garlic & spinach gnocchi
with lemon and pecorino
JAMIE OLIVER.

“This gorgeous
meat-free Italian
classic is both big
on taste and comfort.
And remember to
use any leftover
sorrel pesto to pimp
up salads, pasta
and sandwiches.”

SORREL PESTO PIADINA

SERVES 6-8 AS A SNACK

5 cups (750g) bread flour (strong flour)

2 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp bicarbonate of soda

1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil

175g ball of burrata, torn

70g rocket leaves
Finely grated zest and
juice of 1/2 lemon

SORREL PESTO
40g sorrel (available from greengrocers)
2 tbs pine nuts
1/2 garlic clove

1/4 cup flat-leaf parsley leaves

1/3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil To make the piadina, combine the flour, Place a chargrill pan over high heat.
1/3 cup (25g) finely grated baking powder, bicarb soda and 1 tsp salt Chargrill each piadina for 4-5 minutes,
pecorino in a large bowl. Make a well in the centre pressing the dough into the pan
Finely grated zest of 1/2 lemon and pour in the olive oil and 300ml cold until nicely charred. Flip and fold in
water. Slowly incorporate flour from the half, then chargrill the other two sides
For the sorrel pesto, place the sorrel, sides, until combined to form a soft dough. for 2 minutes or until cooked through (this
pine nuts, garlic, parsley and oil in a If mixture feels too dry, add a splash more will ensure they won’t crack when serving).
food processor and whiz until a smooth water; if too wet add a bit more flour. Turn Remove from the pan and set aside.
paste, but so it still retains some texture, dough out onto a lightly floured work Repeat with remaining piadina.
adding 1 tbs more oil if too dry. Add surface and knead for 5 minutes or until Spread sorrel pesto over each piadina,
the pecorino and the lemon zest, stir smooth and elastic. Divide the dough into then top with burrata and rocket. Squeeze
to combine and season to taste. Cover four equal portions, then roll each into a over lemon juice and season. Fold over
with plastic wrap and set aside. 3mm-thick round disc about 25cm wide. piadina to serve.

86 delicious.
FASTER FOOD.

10 faster
Just like mama used to make, only twice as fast.
This month Warren Mendes puts the pronto into
pasta with speedy parsnip spaghetti, chickpea gnocchi
and 20-minute (yes!) bolognese.

PHOTOGRAPHY ALICIA TAYLOR STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS

Download our new enhanced

@warrenmendes
App for Cook Mode
20-minute bolognese.
OPPOSITE: pea & ham
rotelle (recipes p 97).
2
delicious. 89
 3

Broccolini, mushroom &

ricotta conchiglie. OPPOSITE:
zucchetti with lemon butter,
mozzarella and prosciutto.
 FASTER FOOD.

BROCCOLINI, MUSHROOM Meanwhile, heat oil in a frypan over high 2 tbs extra virgin olive oil
& RICOTTA CONCHIGLIE heat. Add mushrooms, and cook, stirring, 2 garlic cloves, grated
SERVES 4 for 4 minutes or until golden. Stir through Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
anchovy and cook for a further 1 minute or 1/4 cup (40g) caperberries

400g conchiglie (large pasta shells) until anchovy dissolves. Remove from heat. 2 large buffalo mozzarella balls, torn
2 tbs extra virgin olive oil Combine the ricotta and milk, then add 6 thin slices prosciutto, torn
250g button mushrooms, half the mushroom mixture, cheddar and
very finely chopped broccolini. Season, then fill conchiglie with Using a julienne vegetable peeler or
4 anchovy fillets in oil, drained, ricotta mixture and arrange on a greased mandoline, slice zucchini into long, thin
chopped baking dish. Top with remaining mushroom spaghetti-like strips.
500g ricotta mixture, cheddar and broccolini. Bake for To make the lemon butter, melt the
1/2 cup (125ml) milk 20 minutes or until golden and bubbling. butter and oil in a small frypan over
80g smoked cheddar cheese, grated Sprinkle with lemon zest and drizzle with medium heat. Add garlic and cook for
2 bunches broccolini, very finely lemon juice to serve. 1 minute or until fragrant. Stir in lemon
chopped zest and juice. Remove from heat.
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon ZUCCHETTI WITH LEMON BUTTER, Blanch zucchetti in a large saucepan of
MOZZARELLA AND PROSCIUTTO boiling salted water for 1 minute. Drain.
Preheat oven to 200°C. Bring a large SERVES 2-4 Toss zucchetti through half the
saucepan of water to the boil. Add the lemon butter and serve topped with
conchiglie and cook for 8 minutes or 4 large zucchinis caperberries, mozzarella, prosciutto
until almost tender, then drain. 100g unsalted butter and remaining lemon butter.

4 delicious. 91
FASTER FOOD.

5
92 delicious.
Chickpea gnocchi
with harissa roasted
ocean trout. OPPOSITE:
poached chicken & spelt
fettucine with kale pesto.
CHICKPEA GNOCCHI WITH
HARISSA ROASTED OCEAN TROUT
SERVES 4

4 x 180g ocean trout or salmon fillets

(skin on), pinboned
21/2 tbs harissa
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon
Micro radish and oven-roasted
chickpeas (optional), to serve

GNOCCHI
2 x 400g cans chickpeas, rinsed, drained
1 tsp each ground cumin and ginger
1 cup (150g) plain flour
1 egg
1 tbs extra virgin olive oil,
plus extra to drizzle
1 garlic clove, grated
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon

Preheat oven to 200°C. Place the trout,

6
skin-side down, on a baking paper-lined
baking tray. Brush trout with 2 tbs harissa,
then roast for 12 minutes or until just
cooked. Remove from oven and rest,
loosely covered with foil, for 4 minutes.
For the gnocchi, whiz chickpeas, cumin,
ginger, flour, egg, oil, garlic, lemon zest
and 11/2 tsp salt in a food processor until
combined. Bring a large pan of salted
water to the boil. Divide dough into
4 portions. Roll each on a lightly floured
work surface until 1.5cm thick. Cut gnocchi
into 2cm pieces. In batches, cook gnocchi
for 3-4 minutes until they rise to the
surface. Remove with a slotted spoon.
Repeat with remaining gnocchi.
Combine gnocchi with lemon juice and
remaining 1/2 tbs harissa. Discard trout
skin, then flake over gnocchi and pour over 2 cups (about 1/2 bunch) chopped the boil and add the chicken and simmer
resting juices. Top with lemon zest, micro kale leaves for 3-4 minutes, then add the pasta and
radish and chickpeas, if using. Drizzle with 1/3 cup (40g) chopped walnuts, cook for 10 minutes or until the pasta is
oil to serve. plus extra to serve al dente and chicken is cooked through.
3 garlic cloves Meanwhile, to make the kale pesto, whiz
POACHED CHICKEN & SPELT 2 /3 cup (165ml) extra virgin olive oil kale, walnuts, garlic, oil and parmesan in
FETTUCINE WITH KALE PESTO 1/2 cup (40g) grated parmesan, a food processor until smooth. Season.
SERVES 4 plus extra to serve Drain chicken and pasta, reserving
Lemon wedges, to serve 1/3 cup (80ml) cooking liquid. Shred the

1L (4 cups) chicken stock chicken. Toss pasta with half the pesto and
3 x 180g chicken breast fillets Place chicken stock in a saucepan over reserved cooking liquid. Top with
400g spelt fettuccine or other medium-high heat and top up with enough remaining pesto, parmesan and walnuts.
long pasta boiling water so that pan is 3/4 full. Bring to Serve with lemon wedges to squeeze over.
FASTER FOOD.

7
8
Roasted alla Norma
with rigatoni.
OPPOSITE: parsnip
spaghetti all’amatriciana.

94 delicious.
8
ROASTED ALLA NORMA
WITH RIGATONI
SERVES 4

2 tbs tomato paste

2 tbs red wine vinegar
6 large roma tomatoes,
cut into quarters lengthways
Season, then roast for 30 minutes or until
eggplant is tender and tomatoes collapse.
Meanwhile, cook the pasta in a pan of
boiling salted water according to packet
instructions until al dente. Drain, reserving
1/3 cup (80ml) cooking liquid.

Remove roasting dish from oven. Toss

through pasta and reserved cooking liquid.
Shaved pecorino and micro rocket
or basil (optional), to serve

Heat the oil in a deep frypan over

medium heat. Add the pancetta and
cook, stirring occasionally, for 4-5 minutes
until golden and crisp. Add the onion and
cook for 2-3 minutes until softened. Add
3 small eggplants, quartered lengthways Top with ricotta and basil to serve. garlic, basil, tomato and 1/2 cup (125ml)
1/3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil water. Bring to a simmer, season with
1 tsp dried chilli flakes PARSNIP SPAGHETTI pepper and cook, stirring occasionally,
2 tsp dried oregano ALL‘AMATRICIANA for 20 minutes or until thickened. Remove
400g rigatoni SERVES 4 from heat. Discard basil.
200g ricotta, crumbled Meanwhile, using a julienne vegetable
Basil leaves, to serve 2 tbs extra virgin olive oil peeler or mandoline, slice parsnip into
125g thickly sliced flat pancetta, long, thin spaghetti-like strips. Bring a
Preheat oven to 200°C. Combine tomato chopped large saucepan of water to the boil and
paste, vinegar and tomatoes in a bowl, 1 onion, coarsely grated add the parsnip. Cook for 1-2 minutes
then place at one end of a roasting pan. 3 garlic cloves, crushed until just tender, then drain.
Place the eggplant at the other end of the 1/2 bunch basil, stalks and leaves intact Toss the parsnip spaghetti with
pan. Drizzle tomato and eggplant with 2 x 400g cans whole peeled tomatoes all’amatriciana sauce. Top with pecorino
oil, then sprinkle over chilli and oregano. 6 large parsnips, peeled and micro rocket, if using, to serve.
FASTER FOOD.

9
CHORIZO CARBONARA packet instructions until al dente.
SERVES 2 Drain, reserving 1/3 cup (80ml)
cooking liquid.
200g wholemeal spaghetti Meanwhile, place oil and chorizo in
2 tbs extra virgin olive oil a cold frypan, then place over medium
150g dried chorizo, heat. Cook, stirring, for 6 minutes or until
finely chopped crisp. Add the pasta and reserved cooking
2 /3 cup (50g) grated parmesan liquid and toss through chorizo. Remove
1/2 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves from heat.
2 eggs, soft poached Toss the pasta with half the parmesan
and parsley and divide between serving
Cook the pasta in a saucepan of bowls. Top each with a poached egg
boiling salted water according to and remaining parmesan to serve.

96 delicious.
LAMB LARB SPAGHETTI
SERVES 4

300g spaghetti
2 tbs peanut oil
500g lamb mince
1/4 cup (75g) chilli and lemongrass paste

1 tbs each soy sauce and fish sauce

1 baby cos lettuce, shredded
1 Lebanese cucumber, peeled, sliced
1 red onion, thinly sliced into rounds
1/2 cup (140g) roasted peanuts, chopped

2 long red chillies, thinly sliced

Juice of 1 lime
10
Coriander leaves, to serve

Cook the pasta in a pan of boiling salted

water according to packet instructions
until al dente. Drain, reserving 1/2 cup
(125ml) cooking liquid.
Meanwhile, heat oil in a frypan over high
heat. Cook mince, stirring, for 3-4 minutes
until browned. Add the chilli paste, soy
sauce and fish sauce. Cook for a further
6-7 minutes until fragrant and slightly
caramelised. Stir reserved cooking liquid
through mince. Remove from heat.
Top pasta with lettuce, cucumber,
onion, peanuts, lamb mince and chilli.
Squeeze over lime juice and scatter Lamb larb
spaghetti
with coriander leaves to serve.

PEA & HAM ROTELLE

SERVES 4 boiling water to cover. Set aside for 2 tbs soy sauce
2 minutes, then drain. Combine peas with 400g can lentils, rinsed, drained
400g rotelle (wheel pasta) remaining ingredients in a food processor, 375g instant lasagna sheets
2 tbs extra virgin olive oil season and pulse until a rough paste. 500g mixed cherry tomatoes, halved
8 streaky bacon rashers, chopped Heat oil in a large frypan over medium Basil leaves and grated parmesan,
1/4 cup (60g) creme fraiche heat. Add bacon and cook for 4-5 minutes to serve
until golden and crisp. Add pasta, reserved
PEA PESTO cooking liquid and creme fraiche to the Heat the oil in a large pan over high heat.
11/2 cups (180g) frozen peas frypan, season and toss to coat. Cook mince, stirring, for 3 minutes or until
1/2 bunch mint leaves, finely chopped Serve rotelle topped with pea pesto. browned. Add tomato paste and garlic,
1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil and cook for 2 minutes, then add onion
1 garlic clove, grated 20-MINUTE BOLOGNESE jam, soy sauce, lentils and 1 cup (250ml)
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon (COVER RECIPE) water. Reduce heat to medium. Season
SERVES 4 with black pepper. Cook for 12 minutes or
Cook the pasta in a pan of boiling salted until slightly reduced. Remove from heat.
water according to packet instructions 2 tbs extra virgin olive oil Meanwhile, cook lasagna sheets in a pan
until al dente. Drain, reserving 1/4 cup 500g beef mince of boiling salted water according to packet
(60ml) cooking liquid. 1/3 cup (95g) tomato paste instructions until al dente. Drain.
For the pea pesto, place peas in a 4 garlic cloves, finely grated Top lasagne sheets with bolognese,
heatproof bowl and pour over enough 1/4 cup (75g) caramelised onion jam tomatoes, basil and parmesan to serve.
Dalmatian fig tart
(recipe p 104)
 RICK STEIN.

Rick Stein explores the idyllic coastline (and cuisines) of the Eastern Mediterranean
in his stunning new book, Rick Stein: From Venice to Istanbul.
PHOTOGRAPHY JAMES MURPHY FOOD STYLING AYA NISHIMURA
ASSISTANT FOOD STYLIST XENIA VON OSWALD PROP STYLIST PENNY MARKHAM

Download our new enhanced

@rick_stein App for Cook Mode

delicious. 99
T
o fit in with work at the restaurant I write my recipes in the morning. I start
at ten thirty and the thought of lunch becomes a growing pleasure as I get
hungrier. It’s around then that my heart turns fondly to thoughts of the
Eastern Mediterranean, the olive oil, the tomatoes, the red onions, the wild
oregano, the lemons, the sweet fish, the lean lamb, the wine, the olives, the capers and
the garlic. I forget the richly spiced dishes of my last journey to India and I think instead
of the lightly aromatic quality of a simple fish stew of John Dory and rascasse made
with onions, garlic, white wine, potatoes and lots of olive oil from Pylos in Greece.
It was thoughts from Yeats’ poem, Sailing to Byzantium, that accompanied me on my
culinary journey from Venice to Croatia, Albania, Greece and Turkey. Byzantium, as
Istanbul was known in ancient times, represented to him the artistic imagination; he
thought of it as a place of fabulous colour and brightness. The thought of finishing my
journey in Istanbul filled me, too, with a sense of ending in one of the world’s great
cities, where the food in its opulent complexity would match the golden mosaics.
I like to think of the cities of Venice and Istanbul as two large books propping up a
shelf full of stories about the cooking of the Eastern Mediterranean. Tales like a Greek
pie maker and her daughter in a Zagorian village in the Pindus mountains north of
Ioannina, whose chicken pie caused me to shake their hands in earnest congratulation,
or a pilgrimage to the Mani in the Peloponnese to visit the house of the late travel
writer Patrick Leigh Fermor and discover a recipe for moussaka.
It wasn’t hard to find Eastern influences in the cooking of Venice either, whose
wealth came from the Byzantine Empire and beyond. Venetian dishes are surprisingly
uncomplicated for a city with such a rich history. It is primarily the produce of the
lagoon and the Adriatic, and the almost waterlogged land that surrounds the city.
But it is the seafood that fills my imagination whenever I go there like the meat of the
spider crab, which I’ve tossed through a seafood sauce, from the Rialto Market just
by the Grand Canal – perhaps the most colourful fish market in the world. Enjoy!
 RICK STEIN.

CLOCKWISE (from far left): a

shopkeeper sells smokve (figs) at a
Croatian market; Petros’s clams (recipe
p 102); balik ekmek fish sandwiches
in Istanbul; kisir (bulgur salad – recipe
p 102); gondolas in Venice.

delicious. 101
RICK STEIN.

BYZANTINE SPICE MIX Cook pasta in a pan of boiling salted PETROS’S CLAMS
MAKES 1 TSP water according to packet instructions. SERVES 4
Meanwhile, thinly slice squid hoods into
Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg thick rings, set aside. Heat remaining olive 50ml olive oil
1/8 tsp coriander seeds oil in a frypan over medium-high heat. 700g clams, in the shell, cleaned
4 whole cloves Cook prawns for 1-2 minutes, then add 1/4 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley

1cm piece cinnamon quill scallops and squid. Cook for a further Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
Pinch of ground ginger 1-2 minutes until cooked through. Stir in 1/2 tsp dried chilli flakes

Seeds of 1 green cardamom pod the tomato paste, then combine with 1/2 tbs roughly chopped oregano

1/8 tsp ground turmeric vegetables and cooked mussels. Drain Crusty bread, to serve
1/8 tsp chilli powder the pasta, add to seafood sauce and stir
to combine well. Serve drizzled with oil PRAWN STOCK
For the spice mix, grind all ingredients and chopped parsley. 2 tbs olive oil
with a mortar and pestle until finely 1 small garlic clove
ground. Store in an airtight container. GNOCCHI CON GRANSEOLA 250g prawn heads and shells
(GNOCCHI IN CRAB SAUCE) 1 tbs tomato paste
BIGOLI IN CASSOPIPA SERVES 4
(PASTA WITH SHELLFISH) For the prawn stock, heat the oil in a large
SERVES 6 225g desiree potatoes saucepan over medium heat. Add the
80g plain flour garlic and the prawn heads and shells.
400g mussels, debearded, scrubbed 1/2 egg, lightly beaten Cook for 2-3 minutes, then add the
90ml olive oil, plus extra to serve tomato paste, 1/2 tsp salt and 300ml
1 small onion, finely chopped CRAB SAUCE water. Cook for 10 minutes, then pass
1 carrot, finely grated 1/3 cup (80ml) olive oil through a sieve, pushing down on the
1 celery stalk, finely grated 1/2 small onion, grated shells to extract as much of the prawn
1 small leek, finely chopped 1 garlic clove, crushed flavour as you can. Discard the shells
2 tsp Byzantine spice mix Pinch of dried chilli flakes and set the stock aside.
100ml white wine 1/4 tsp Byzantine spice mix Heat the oil in a large pan over medium
300ml fish or chicken stock 300ml prawn stock heat. Add the clams, parsley, lemon juice
400g bucatini or spaghetti (see Petros’s clams) and chilli flakes, and cook for 2-3 minutes
250g squid tubes, tentacles intact, 20g unsalted butter until the clams start to open. Add 150ml
cleaned 1/3 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves prawn stock and cook for a further
300g green prawns, peeled 200g cooked white crab meat, picked 2-3 minutes. Add oregano and toss to
(tails intact), deveined combine. Garnish with lemon zest and
8 scallops, roe removed, halved To make the gnocchi, preheat the oven to serve immediately, with crusty bread
horizontally 180°C. Bake the potatoes for 50 minutes to mop up the soupy juices.
1 tbs tomato paste to 1 hour until very soft, then set aside until
Small handful flat-leaf parsley leaves, cool enough to handle. Scoop flesh from KISIR (BULGUR SALAD)
roughly chopped skins and mash or pass through a potato SERVES 4-8
ricer. Combine with flour, egg and 1/4 tsp
Steam the mussels in 1/4 cup (60ml) water salt to make a firm dough. Roll the mixture 2 tbs tomato paste
in a large pan with a lid over high heat into 1cm thick sausages, then cut into 2 tsp harissa or 1 tsp smoked paprika
for 4 minutes or until shells open. Remove 2cm lengths. Cook in a pan of boiling (pimenton)
the meat from the shells and set aside. salted water for 3 minutes or until they 200g bulgur wheat, rinsed
Reserve the cooking liquor. Set aside. rise to the surface. Drain and keep warm. 1 tsp ground cumin
Heat half the oil in a large pan over Heat oil in a pan over medium heat. 1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper

medium heat. Add onion, carrot, celery Cook onion and garlic for 5 minutes Handful mint leaves, chopped
and leek, cover with a lid and cook for or until soft, then add the chilli flakes 1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil

10 minutes. Add spice mix and cook for and spice mix and stir for 1 minute. 2 tbs pomegranate molasses
1-2 minutes, then add white wine, stock, Add the prawn stock, and bring to a Juice of 1/2 lemon
1 tsp salt and mussel liquor, and bring to a simmer, then whisk in the butter. Fold 1 small red onion, halved, thinly sliced
simmer. Cook for 10-15 minutes until most in the parsley and crab meat and pour 2 tomatoes, seeds removed,
of the liquid is evaporated. over the cooked gnocchi. finely chopped

102 delicious.
CLOCKWISE (from top left): fresh figs;
gnocchi con granseola (gnocchi in crab sauce);
a fisherman sells prawns on the Dalmatian
coast; bigoli in cassopipa (pasta with shellfish).
RICK STEIN.

300ml olive oil Spread bechamel over the top and

2 large potatoes, peeled, sprinkle with 50g grated cheese.
sliced into 1cm slices, lengthways Bake for 30 minutes or until golden.
2 small onions, chopped
2 garlic cloves, chopped DALMATIAN FIG TART
750g beef mince SERVES 6-8
3 beefsteak tomatoes, chopped
1 cinnamon quill 170g plain flour, sifted, plus extra to dust
1 bay leaf 100g unsalted butter, chilled, chopped
1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper 1/4 cup (55g) caster sugar

1 egg yolk
BECHAMEL 50ml double cream
100g unsalted butter 6 figs, halved, stems trimmed
2 /3 cup (100g) plain flour

3 cups (750ml) milk FILLING

3 eggs 2 cups (500g) mascarpone
1/4 tsp freshly grated nutmeg 1/2 cup (175g) clear honey

150g graviera or Gruyere cheese, grated

To make pastry, rub flour, butter and a
Toss the eggplant and zucchini slices with pinch of salt with your fingertips until it
1 tbs salt. Set aside for 30 minutes, then resembles breadcrumbs. Stir in the sugar,
Patrick’s moussaka rinse and dry on paper towel. Heat 1/4 cup then stir through egg yolk and cream, so
(60ml) oil in a frypan over medium heat. that it comes together to form a dough.
Cook the zucchini for 2-3 minutes each On a floured surface, roll out pastry and
1 each green and red capsicums, side until golden, drain on paper towel. use it to line a 24cm loose-bottomed flan
seeds removed, finely chopped Heat another 1/2 cup (125ml) oil and in two pan. (If too difficult to handle, enclose in
5 spring onions, thinly sliced batches, fry the eggplant for 3-4 minutes plastic wrap and chill for 30 minutes.) Trim
1 Lebanese cucumber, halved, seeds each side until golden, drain on paper pastry edges, cover with plastic wrap and
removed, finely chopped towel. Heat another 1/4 cup (60ml) oil and place in the freezer for 30 minutes to rest.
1 bunch flat-leaf parsley, chopped fry the potato for 4-5 minutes each side Preheat the oven to 180°C. Line the
Baby cos leaves, to serve until golden, drain on paper towel. pastry with baking paper and fill with
In a separate pan, heat remaining baking weights. Bake for 10 minutes, then
In a jug, combine tomato paste, harissa, 1/4 cup (60ml) oil. Cook the onions and remove the paper and weights. Bake for a
1 tsp salt and 200ml boiling water. Place garlic for 5 minutes or until softened. Add further 3 minutes or until dry. Remove from
bulgur wheat in a bowl and pour over the the beef and cook for 6-8 minutes until oven. Reduce oven to 160°C.
water and tomato mixture, and stir to browned. Add the tomato, cinnamon, bay Place mascarpone and honey in a pan
combine. Cover with plastic wrap and set leaf, pepper and 11/2 tsp salt. Simmer for over low heat and whisk until combined.
aside for 10 minutes or until all the liquid is 30-40 minutes until slightly thickened. Remove from heat and pour into the
absorbed. Fluff the bulgur up with a fork. Remove from heat and discard the pastry case, then lay the figs, cut-side
Add the cumin, black pepper, mint, oil, cinnamon and bay leaf. up, on top. Bake for 45-50 minutes until
pomegranate molasses, lemon juice and Meanwhile, to make bechamel, melt just starting to turn golden around the
red onion and stir to combine. Gently stir butter in a saucepan over medium-low edges. Cool to room temperature
through the tomatoes, capsicum, spring heat, stir in the flour and cook, stirring, before serving.
onion, cucumber and parsley. Season. for 2 minutes. Slowly incorporate the milk,
Serve in lettuce leaves. stirring until thickened. Remove from the
heat and whisk in the eggs, nutmeg and Rick Stein:
PATRICK’S MOUSSAKA 100g cheese. From Venice to
SERVES 6-8 Preheat the oven to 220°C. In a deep Istanbul (BBC
ovenproof dish, about 35cm x 24cm, Books, $55),
is available
1 eggplant, sliced into 1cm slices, arrange the potatoes in a layer. Top
in bookshops
lengthways with one-third beef, then top with the
nationally.
3 zucchinis, sliced into 1cm slices, eggplant, another one-third beef,
lengthways zucchini, and finish with remaining beef.

104 delicious.
Bruschetta with baked
strawberries & honey
ricotta (recipe p 112).
OPPOSITE: Silvia
and son Miro.

106 delicious.
 SILVIA COLLOCA.

A ILY TI S
Thinking of her papa in Milan on Father’s Day, Silvia Colloca and her children throw
a decadent Italian-inspired brunch to spoil husband and dad, actor Richard Roxburgh.
RECIPES SILVIA COLLOCA PHOTOGRAPHY BRETT STEVENS STYLING VIVIEN WALSH
SILVIA COLLOCA.

“We really don’t need a reminder that our SPICY CHICKPEAS WITH
SOPPRESSATA AND EGGS
fathers are special. Whether we call them SERVES 4

Dad, Daddy, or Papa, one day each year isn’t 2 tbs extra virgin olive oil
quite enough to celebrate their greatness.” 2 eschalots, thinly sliced
1 tbs finely chopped flat-leaf
parsley stalks
1 small green chilli, thinly sliced
FROM THEIR GOOFY sense of humour (dad jokes 1 garlic clove, crushed
sound just as lame in Italian too...), to their bear hugs 100g soppressata (Italian dry salami),
and tickle fights, right down to those times when we cut into 2cm pieces
have heard their serious voices announcing grimly 2 x 400g cans chickpeas, rinsed, drained
that we were grounded, we know there is no safer 1/2 cup (125ml) tomato passata (sugo)

place than near them. My dad lives in Milan – I don’t 4 eggs

see him as often as I would like to – and although
I won’t be spending this Father’s Day in his company, Heat oil in a large, heavy-based frypan over
I will be cooking a special brunch for the other extraordinary medium heat. Add eschalot, parsley stalks,
dad in my life, my darling Richard, the father of my children. I will enlist the chilli, garlic and soppressata, and cook,
help of my boys to conjure up a mighty feast. stirring, for 2-3 minutes until eschalot
Knowing his passion for coffee, I have thought up a recipe for espresso begins to soften. Add chickpeas and cook,
madeleines. The batter is made to rest overnight in the fridge, so all you have stirring to coat, for a further 1-2 minutes.
to do in the morning is turn the oven on, brew the special man a cuppa and Add passata and 1 cup (250ml) water, then
these bite-sized treats will be ready in no time. reduce heat to low. Cook for 10-15 minutes
The star of my brunch spread will undoubtedly be a spicy chickpea braise, until slightly reduced. Season. Make 4 small
peppered with soppressata and crowned with eggs perfectly poached in the indents in the mixture and crack an egg
stew: a robust, dad-worthy dish. Those who favour sweets will be well-treated into each. Cook for 3-4 minutes until whites
by a generous portion of baked strawberries with brioche toast and ricotta, are cooked. Serve immediately.
or my special rockmelon jam, featuring an unusual savoury ingredient that
will tickle the palate. ESPRESSO MADELEINES
These are just accompaniments to the main ingredients we will be serving MAKES 24
at the table: our love and gratitude. Every day of the year. Begin this recipe 1 day ahead.

3 eggs, at room temperature

100g caster sugar
Download our new enhanced 2 tbs honey
@silviacolloca @silviascucina
App for Cook Mode 2 tbs Dutch cocoa powder,
plus extra to dust
1 tsp vanilla-bean paste
1/4 cup (60ml) fresh espresso

or strong instant coffee

11/4 cups (175g) self-raising flour, sifted
120g unsalted butter, melted

In a large bowl, beat the eggs, sugar and

honey with electric beaters for 5 minutes
or until thick and pale.

108 delicious.
Spicy chickpeas with
soppressata and eggs
Espresso madeleines
(recipe p 106)
 SILVIA COLLOCA.

LEFT: rockmelon, lemon & white

pepper jam. BELOW: muffin pan
seeded bread rolls (recipe p 112).

Beat in cocoa, vanilla and espresso. Fold 850g caster sugar

through flour, then fold through melted 1/2 tsp freshly ground white pepper

butter. Cover with plastic wrap and chill

for at least 30 minutes or overnight. Combine lemon zest and juice, rockmelon
The next day, preheat the oven to 180°C. and sugar in a large bowl. Cover with
Grease a 12-hole madeleine pan and dust plastic wrap. Chill overnight to macerate.
with flour, shaking off any excess. Spoon The next day, place the mixture in a
batter into moulds until three-quarters full. large saucepan over high heat and bring
Bake for 8-10 minutes until madeleines to the boil. Reduce heat to low and cook,
spring back to the touch. Transfer to a wire skimming any impurities from the surface,
rack to cool slightly. Repeat with remaining stirring occasionally and crushing fruit
batter. Dust with extra cocoa to serve. with the back of a spoon, for 45 minutes
to 1 hour, until slightly thickened. Stir
ROCKMELON, LEMON through white pepper. To check if jam is
& WHITE PEPPER JAM cooked, place a small plate in the freezer
MAKES FOUR 250ML JARS for 10 minutes. Drop 1 tsp jam onto plate.
Begin this recipe 1 day ahead. Let it set for 30 seconds, if it thickens,
the jam is ready, if not, cook for a further
Finely grated zest of 2 lemons, plus 5 minutes and test again.
150ml lemon juice Divide hot jam among four 1 cup (250ml)
1kg rockmelon, cut into 3cm pieces sterilised jars, seal and invert.

delicious. 111
SILVIA COLLOCA.

10-15 minutes until the rolls are golden.

Remove bread rolls from pan, peel off the
baking paper and allow to cool on a wire
rack before serving.

BRUSCHETTA WITH BAKED

STRAWBERRIES & HONEY RICOTTA
SERVES 6

1kg strawberries, hulled,

halved if large
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 orange,
plus extra zest to serve
1/4 cup (90g) honey

1 vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped

or 1 tsp vanilla-bean paste
4 thick slices brioche

Bruschetta with baked HONEY RICOTTA

strawberries & honey ricotta
1 cup (240g) ricotta
1 tsp vanilla-bean paste
1 tbs honey
MUFFIN PAN SEEDED surface and knead for 5 minutes or until Finely grated zest of 1/2 orange

Opener: assorted blue and white vintage Japanese cottons (used throughout),
BREAD ROLLS smooth and elastic. Transfer the dough
MAKES 6 to a lightly oiled bowl. Cover with a clean Preheat the oven to 180°C. Line a baking
tea towel and set aside in a warm place dish with baking paper. Add strawberries,

Chee Soon & Fitzgerald. For stockist details, see Directory, p 158.
2 x 7g sachets dried instant yeast for 30 minutes or until doubled in size. orange zest and juice, honey and vanilla
3 cups (450g) plain flour Knock back dough, then form dough pod and seeds, and toss to combine. Bake
1/2 cup (55g) rye flour into a round. Return to oiled bowl, cover for 20 minutes or until berries are soft.
1 tbs barley malt syrup or honey with plastic wrap and set aside in a warm Set aside to cool.
3/4 cup (185ml) buttermilk place for a further 11/2 hours or until Preheat grill to high. Toast brioche
1/4 cup (35g) each white and black doubled in size. for 1-2 minutes each side until golden.
sesame seeds Preheat the oven to 220°C and line Meanwhile, for the honey ricotta, place
a 6-hole Texas muffin pan with baking the ricotta in a large bowl and beat with
Combine yeast and 1/2 cup (125ml) warm paper. Divide dough evenly among the a wooden spoon to loosen. Add the
water in a bowl. Set aside for 10 minutes 6 holes, then sprinkle with white or black vanilla-bean paste and stir to combine.
or until frothy. Combine the flours, barley sesame seeds. Set aside in a warm place Transfer to a serving bowl. Drizzle with
malt syrup, buttermilk, yeast mixture and for 1 hour or until slightly risen. honey and sprinkle with orange zest.
11/2 tsp salt in a large bowl, and bring Using a sharp knife, score the top of To serve, spread the ricotta over brioche,
together with your hands to form a rough each roll. Bake for 10 minutes, then reduce top with strawberries and drizzle with
dough. Turn out onto a clean work the oven to 200°C and bake for a further strawberry syrup.

112 delicious.
 We love Dads
treat yours to an
Dads are the best, so es,
ay breakfast. Pancak
awesome Father’s D e it
toppings. Yum! Mak
with all his favourite ecial.
the day even more sp
together and make
Buffalo mozzarella with
bay oil (recipe p 118)
 ENTERTAINING.

maurice teZini
AT HOME
Restaurateur Maurice Terzini of Bondi’s Icebergs Dining Room and Bar and Da Orazio
fame invites us to his Sydney home for a lesson in easy Italian entertaining.
WORDS HEIDI FINNANE PHOTOGRAPHY PETRINA TINSLAY
FOOD STYLING PHOEBE WOOD STYLING ALEKS BEARE

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delicious. 115
CLOCKWISE (from above):
Sylvester, Maurice, Cesare and
Lucy; duck proscuitto with pickled
tamarillo and grissini (recipe p 118);
pizza fritta (recipe p 118).
 ENTERTAINING.

I
t’s a sight many are familiar with,
restaurateur Maurice Terzini playing
host at either of his Sydney venues:
the iconic Icebergs Dining Room
and Bar with its breathtaking views
over Bondi Beach or at pizzeria hotspot
Da Orazio Pizza + Porchetta. But
when Maurice isn’t front of house he’s
finalising plans for new Da Orazio venues,
the, as yet, unnamed Sydney CBD site and
Da Maria in Kerobokan, Bali, where his
clothing line, Ten Pieces, is also produced.
So, it’s a rare moment when Maurice
and family, son Sylvester, 23, along with
Maurice’s partner, fashion designer
Lucy Hinckfuss, and their son, Cesare,
20 months, find the time to share a
quiet family meal at home. “I opened
the restaurants because I love being in
restaurants. I enjoy serving people and
entertaining – I’m really good at it. But
when I’m entertaining, I’m working – at
home it’s more for us, it’s comfortable Prepaing cavatelli
and a bit of fun,” says Maurice. at home in Sydney’s
Bondi. BELOW:
Sunday lunch in the Terzini house is a Lucy and Maurice.
laid-back affair. “In theory, today’s menu
is quite peasant-like, there’s not a lot of
prep, but I’ve thrown in a few modern
techniques that I wouldn’t have used in
Get the look
PREVIOUS PAGES: buffalo mozzarella: ‘Platter’
the past, like dehydrating olives or frying
in Duck Egg, $90, Mud Australia • Cutipol ‘Goa’
For stockist details, see Directory, p 158.

capers, which is a great way of seasoning stainless steel fork (part of 24 piece set), $440,
creamy buffalo mozzarella,” says Maurice. Francalia • Batch ‘Ink’ large bowl, $130, Simon Johnson
The menu sticks to Maurice’s food OPPOSITE (clockwise from top left): Maurice and
family: ‘Joe’ sofa with arms, $POA, MCM House
philosophy: flavours that his parents would
• ‘Band’ orange and white striped rug, $POA,
recognise but food they wouldn’t cook.
Armadillo&Co Duck prosciutto: ‘MT’ round chopping
Today that includes starters of thinly sliced board with charcoal rim, $49.95, Cotton On • charcoal
duck prosciutto with dehydrated mandarin, plate, glass and cutlery, stylist’s own Pizza fritti:
a modern interpretation of prosciutto e wooden board, stylist‘s own • tray in ‘Pistachio’, $130,
Mud Australia • ‘Salad’ plates in mixed colours, $35
melone, and pizza fritta with cheese and
(each), Mud Australia • white bowl and blue checked
anchovies. “The starters are very simple,
napkin, stylist‘s own FOLLOWING PAGES: Terzini
ASSISTANT STYLIST AMANDA MAHONEY

just a little nibble to have while preparing salad: Batch ‘Ink’ large bowl (as before) • Cutipol
lunch,” says Maurice as he tosses artichoke ‘Goa’ salad set, $79.90, Francalia Americano: ‘Tonk’
and mussels with pasta for the main event. wooden stool, $POA, MCM House • big round marble
tray, $270, The Minimalist • ‘Orris Large Pourer’ glass
“Food is important, but the conversation
beaker, $24.95, Country Road • glass stirrer, stylist’s
is just as important,” says Maurice. “For
own Mussel cavatelli: ‘Flared’ large ceramic bowl in
me, entertaining is not necessarily about blue, $110, Mud Australia FINAL PAGE: Liquid
cooking a dish that takes hours, for me a tiramisu: ‘MT’ round chopping board with charcoal
plate of pasta is great. And that’s the spirit rim (as before) • glasses and spoons, stylist’s own
• ‘Pebble’ small bowl in steel, $36, Mud Australia.
of Italian food, it’s the spirit rather than
complexity that makes it so good!”

delicious. 117
ENTERTAINING.

baking paper-lined baking trays. Cut a 2cm

slit into the top of each pizza. Set aside for
a further 30 minutes or until risen.
Heat remaining 1/3 cup (80ml) oil in a
large frypan over medium heat. In batches,
cook the pizza for 3 minutes each side or
until golden and cooked through. Drain
on paper towel and sprinkle with salt.
Serve with cheese, anchovies and sardines.

BUFFALO MOZZARELLA
DUCK PROSCIUTTO WITH PICKLED PIZZA FRITTA WITH BAY OIL
TAMARILLO AND GRISSINI MAKES 18 SERVES 6
SERVES 6 AS AN ENTREE
2 x 7g sachets dried instant yeast 400g buffalo mozzarella, sliced
2 tbs white wine vinegar 1/2 cup (125ml) extra virgin olive oil 1/3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil

2 tbs raw sugar 500g bread & pizza flour Fried baby capers, crumbled dehydrated
2 tbs extra virgin olive oil Sovrano cheese or parmesan, Italian or dried black olives (from gourmet
6 ripe tamarillos anchovies in oil and sardines in oil, food shops) and basil leaves, to serve
150g duck prosciutto or prosciutto, to serve
thinly sliced BAY OIL
Freeze-dried mandarin (optional – from Whisk yeast, 2 tbs oil and 325ml warm 1/2bunch kale, stalks removed, chopped
gourmet food stores) and grissini, water in a bowl. Place flour and 1 tsp salt in 1/2bunch chives, chopped
to serve an electric mixer fitted with a dough hook. 8 fresh bay leaves, chopped
With the motor running on low, gradually 350ml extra virgin olive oil
To pickle tamarillo, combine vinegar, sugar add yeast mixture and 1 tsp salt until a
and oil in a bowl, season. Quarter tamarillos sticky dough forms. Knead for 8-10 minutes For the bay oil, blanch kale and chives in
lengthways and scoop out flesh in one until smooth and elastic (dough will be boiling water for 30 seconds, then refresh
clean, even scoop. Discard skin and stalks. quite wet). Place in an oiled bowl and cover in iced water. Transfer to a food processor
Place flesh in pickling liquid and toss to with a tea towel. Set aside in a warm place with bay leaves and oil. Whiz until smooth.
coat. Set aside for 30 minutes to pickle. for 40 minutes or until doubled in size. Strain through muslin, discarding solids.
Arrange prosciutto on a platter. Top with Knock back dough and turn out onto a Arrange mozzarella on a serving dish.
tamarillo and mandarin. Drizzle with a little floured surface. Divide into 18 equal balls. Season and drizzle with bay oil. Scatter
pickling liquid and serve with grissini. Flatten each into a 8cm circle and place on with fried capers, crumbled olives and basil.

118 delicious.
MUSSEL & ARTICHOKE CAVATELLI
SERVES 6

Juice of 1 lemon
2 globe artichokes
200ml dry white wine
FAR LEFT: Sylvester, Lucy and
2kg mussels, debearded, scrubbed
Maurice enjoy lunch at home;
500g cavatelli pasta or other short pasta Terzini salad; Americano cocktail;
2 tbs extra virgin olive oil, mussel & artichoke cavatelli.
plus extra oil to drizzle
50g unsalted butter
1/2 bunch oregano, leaves chopped 2-3 minutes until mussels have opened. TERZINI SALAD
4 garlic cloves, chopped Remove from heat. Strain, reserving SERVES 6
3 small red chillies, chopped 11/2 cups (375ml) liquid. Remove most
1/2 cup (125ml) chicken stock of the mussels from their shells, leaving 2 baby cos lettuces, leaves separated
1/2 bunch flat-leaf parsley, leaves chopped a few in the shells to garnish. Set aside. 50g rocket leaves
Cook pasta in a saucepan of boiling 1 eschalot, thinly sliced
Fill a large bowl with water and lemon salted water over high heat according to 1 tbs chopped oregano leaves
juice. Working with one artichoke at a time, packet instructions or until al dente. Drain.
peel stem using a vegetable peeler, then Meanwhile, heat oil and butter in a LEMON DRESSING
remove tough outer leaves. Once you frypan over high heat. Add drained Juice of 1/2 lemon
reach the softer leaves, using a serrated artichoke, oregano, garlic and chilli, and 2 tbs extra virgin olive oil
knife, trim one-third from the top. Cut the cook for 4-5 minutes until artichokes are 2 tsp Dijon mustard
artichoke in half lengthways, so you can tender. Reduce heat to medium-low, 2 tsp finely chopped preserved lemon
reach the hairy choke, then scrape it out add stock and reserved mussel liquor quarters, white pith removed
with a small knife and discard. Roughly and simmer for 2-3 minutes. Add the 2 tsp dried oregano
chop, then place in lemon water. Repeat parsley, mussel meat, reserved shells
with remaining artichoke. and cooked pasta, season. Cook for For the dressing, whisk all ingredients
Place wine in a large pan with a lid over 1-2 minutes, then remove from heat. in a small bowl until combined.
high heat and bring to the boil. Add Divide cavatelli among bowls and Toss all remaining ingredients together
mussels, cover with a lid and cook for drizzle with extra oil to serve. in a large bowl and drizzle with dressing.
ENTERTAINING.

LIQUID TIRAMISU mixture thinly onto a baking paper-lined Whiz the oats in a food processor to a
SERVES 6 baking tray. Bake for 10 minutes or until fine powder, set aside. Beat butter and
dark golden. Cool. Whiz in a food sugar using an electric mixer until thick
1/4 cup (60ml) Napoleon brandy processor to a fine crumb. and pale. With the motor running, add
1/4 cup (60ml) creme de cacao Divide the brandy, creme de cacao, syrup until combined. Gradually add
2 tbs each Kahlua and Marsala Kahlua, Marsala, coffee and mascarpone flour, coconut, ground oats and 1/2 tsp
2 tbs espresso coffee between two cocktail shakers filled with salt, beating slowly to combine. Place
1/3 cup (85g) mascarpone ice. Shake each until combined. Divide two 50cm-long pieces of plastic wrap
among six 150ml glasses. Sprinkle with on a work surface. Divide dough into
CINNAMON CRUMBLE cinnamon crumble to serve. two and place in the middle of each
1/2 cup (45g) rolled oats piece. Form into a log, then roll up
1/4 cup (60g) brown sugar KINGSTON BISCUITS plastic wrap and twist ends to secure.
1/4 tsp each baking powder and pink salt MAKES 24 Chill for 30 minutes to firm up.
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon Preheat the oven to 170°C. Slice each
30g cold unsalted butter, chopped 11/2 cups (135g) rolled oats roll into 24 rounds. Divide among four
1/2 eggwhite 325g unsalted butter, softened baking paper-lined baking trays and
11/2 cups (330g) raw caster sugar bake for 12 minutes or until dark golden.
Preheat oven to 160°C. For the crumble, 1/3 cup (115g) golden syrup Set aside to cool completely.
combine oats, sugar, baking powder, salt 2 cups (300g) plain flour Spread melted carob over the top
and cinnamon in a bowl. Rub butter in 12 /3 cups (150g) desiccated coconut of one Kingston biscuit, then sandwich
with your fingers until it resembles 300g milk carob bar, chopped, with another biscuit. Repeat with
breadcrumbs. Stir in eggwhite. Spread melted remaining biscuits.

Maurice’s...
PLAN There’s always some
forethought, but we don’t go to great
lengths. I’m always taking recipes
from the restaurants. I’ll be at Da
Orazio and I’ll try something and think
‘I’m going to cook that at home’.

TABLE The house is pretty

simple. I used to love decorations
but as I get older I don’t need as
many knick-knacks. Less is more.

PLAYLIST At home it’s

usually jazz – something simple.
It’s important to understand the
vibe. I’ll turn it up once we’ve had
a few drinks and want to dance.

DRINKS I’m a big fan of natural

wines. For this menu we started off
with a pre-batched Americano (equal
parts Campari and sweet vermouth
Liquid tiramisu; with soda and fresh orange), then
Kingston biscuits. sipped on all-natural prosecco NV
.
Bellenda Metodo Rurale; Ronco
Severo pinot grigio and a beautiful
red, Runchet Langhe Nebbiolo DOC.

120 delicious.
BALANCING ACT.

PROTEIN
SNACK

Ferrero Rocher
protein balls.
OPPOSITE: rawmisu
(recipes p 124).

122 delicious.
balancing ACT
Shannon Harley proves it’s possible to have your cake and eat it too with
these better-for-you desserts inspired by her favourite Italian dolce.
PHOTOGRAPHY JEREMY SIMONS PROP STYLING KIRSTEN BOOKALIL FOOD STYLING PHOEBE WOOD

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RAW
DESSERT
BALANCING ACT.

RICOTTA CHEESECAKE WITH Combine dates, espresso (or substitute SUGAR-FREE RASPBERRY SORBET
ROASTED BLUEBERRIES warm water), coconut oil and vanilla in a MAKES 1.25L
SERVES 10 bowl. Set aside for 10 minutes to soak.
Using a stick blender, puree until smooth. 6 cups (810g) frozen raspberries
250g cream cheese, softened In a large bowl, combine hazelnut meal, 3 overripe bananas, cut into
225ml maple syrup bukinis, cacao nibs, cacao and protein 1cm pieces, frozen
2 eggs powder. Add date puree and a pinch of 60g fresh raspberries, roughly crushed
Finely grated zest of 1 orange, salt, and stir until sticky and combined.
plus the juice of 2 oranges Line a baking tray with baking paper In 3 batches, whiz frozen raspberries and
1 tbs each cornflour and ground cinnamon and grease hands with a little coconut banana in a food processor until smooth.
1kg fresh ricotta oil. Compress and roll mixture into Transfer each batch to one large bowl,
1 vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped 20 walnut-sized balls. Make an indent in then stir through crushed raspberries.
2 x 125g punnets blueberries the centre of each with your thumb, add Spoon into a 1.25L (5 cup) container.
1/2 cup (75g) roasted hazelnuts, chopped a whole hazelnut, then reform ball around Serve immediately.
the hazelnut. Transfer to prepared tray
Preheat oven to 180°C. Beat cream and chill for 30 minutes to firm up. Dust SUGAR-FREE ROCKMELON
cheese and 1/2 cup (125ml) maple syrup with extra cacao to serve. & YOGHURT SORBET
with electric beaters on high speed for MAKES 1.25L
5 minutes or until combined. Add eggs, RAWMISU
orange zest, cornflour, cinnamon and SERVES 4 11/2 rockmelons, chopped, frozen
ricotta, and beat for a further 5 minutes or 3 overripe bananas, cut into
until smooth and combined. Transfer to a 150g pitted prunes, roughly chopped 1cm pieces, frozen
1.3L baking dish, then bake for 40 minutes 1/4 cup (60ml) Marsala or fortified wine 11/2 cups (420g) thick Greek-style yoghurt
or until golden and firm, but centre has a 1/2 cup (125ml) espresso

Wares; ‘Flared’ medium bowl in white, Mud Australia; ‘Roaster’ roasting dish in white by Tony Sly, and small white linen towel
by Bembora, both The Bay Tree. Gelato: ‘Moon’ matte 24-carat gold spoon by Cutipol, Francalia; metal loaf cake tins, Chef’s
‘Goa’ spoon in white and matte 24-carat gold by Cutipol, Francalia. Cheesecake: ’Globe’ small bowl in satin by Batch, Crave
Protein balls: ’Round Trivet’ marble board by Marble Basics, Koskela; gold crystal glasses by Aerin, Becker Minty. Rawmisu:
slight wobble. Cool, then chill for 3 hours. 2 tbs cacao, plus extra to dust In 3 batches, whiz the rockmelon and
Before serving, preheat oven to 180°C. 1 tbs freshly ground coffee banana in a food processor until smooth.
Combine orange juice, vanilla pod and 1/3 cup (80ml) rice malt syrup, melted With the motor running, gradually add

Warehouse. Biscotti: tea glass by Finum Tea Systems, Beautiful Spaces. For stockist details, see Directory, p 158.
seeds and remaining 100ml maple syrup in 1/2 cup (80g) white chia seeds 1/2 cup (140g) yoghurt to each batch until

a small pan over medium heat, stirring until 400ml can coconut milk the mixture is smooth and the consistency
reduced and thickened. Place blueberries 2 tsp vanilla extract of gelato. Spoon into a 1.25L (5 cup)
in a baking dish and spoon over 2 tbs 1/3 cup (40g) cacao nibs container. Serve immediately.
orange syrup, reserving remainder to
serve. Roast for 12-15 minutes until berries Soak prunes in Marsala (or substitute SUGAR-FREE VEGAN
start to burst. Cool for 5 minutes. water) and espresso. Set aside for 3 hours. STRACCIATELLA GELATO
Top cheesecake with hazelnuts, Meanwhile, combine cacao, ground MAKES 1.25L
blueberries and remaining orange syrup. coffee, 2 tbs rice malt syrup, 1/4 cup (40g)
chia seeds, 150ml coconut milk and 9 overripe bananas, cut into
FERRERO ROCHER 3/4 cup (185ml) warm water in a bowl. 1cm pieces, frozen
PROTEIN BALLS Stir to combine well, then transfer to an 3/4 cup (185ml) almond milk

MAKES 20 airtight container and chill for 3 hours. 1 tbs vanilla bean paste
Place vanilla and remaining 1/4 cup 1/2 cup (60g) cacao nibs

10 Medjool dates, torn in half, pitted (40g) chia seeds, 2 tbs rice malt syrup and 1/2 cup (50g) flaked almonds,

1/2 cup (125ml) hot espresso 250ml coconut milk in a separate bowl toasted
1/4 cup (60ml) coconut oil, melted and stir to combine well, then transfer to
2 tsp vanilla extract an airtight container and chill for 3 hours. In 3 batches, whiz banana, milk and vanilla
21/2 cups (250g) hazelnut meal To serve, beat the vanilla and chocolate paste in a food processor, scraping down
11/4 cups (220g) bukinis (roasted chia mousses with a spoon to soften. sides with a spatula, for 2-3 minutes until
buckwheat from health food stores) Spoon prunes into 4 serving glasses and smooth. (The mixture will become hard
1/2 cup (60g) cacao nibs sift over a little extra cacao. Top with half and crumbly before it turns creamy).
1/2 cup (50g) cacao, plus extra to dust the vanilla chia mousse, then top with Transfer each batch to one large bowl,
1/3 cup (35g) chocolate protein powder (we chocolate chia mousse, then finish with then stir through cacao nibs and
used Bare Blends Organic Cacao WPC) a final layer of vanilla chia mousse and almonds. Spoon into a 1.25L (5 cup)
20 whole roasted hazelnuts scatter with cacao nibs. container. Serve immediately.

124 delicious.
NO-CRUST
CAKE

Ricotta cheesecake with

roasted blueberries
 SUGAR
FREE

FROM TOP: sugar-free

raspberry sorbet;
sugar-free rockmelon
& yoghurt sorbet;
sugar-free vegan
stracciatella gelato
(recipes p 124).
 BALANCING ACT.

GLUTEN-FREE PISTACHIO Preheat the oven to 180°C. Line

AMARETTI MORBIDI two baking trays with baking paper.
MAKES 18 Combine the ground pistachio, flour,
This recipe is based on amaretti eggwhites, vanilla and icing sugar in a
morbidi al pistacchio – soft large bowl, stirring until a thick paste
pistachio biscuits. forms. Roll 1 tbs dough into a ball, then
place on trays and flatten slightly. Repeat
11/3 cups (205g) pistachios, finely with remaining dough, leaving a 4cm gap
ground, plus slivered pistachios between each. Bake for 10 minutes or
to serve until cooked through.
1/4 cup (35g) gluten-free plain flour, Dip one half of each biscuit in melted
sifted chocolate, allowing excess to drip off,
2 eggwhites, lightly beaten and place on a baking paper-lined baking
1 tsp vanilla extract tray. Sprinkle slivered pistachios over
1 cup (120g) pure icing sugar, chocolate. Repeat with remaining
sifted biscuits, then chill for 15 minutes
100g dark chocolate, melted to firm up before serving.

GLUTEN
FREE

delicious. 127
ADVERTISEMENT

MOONLIGHT MAGIC
THE TRADITIONAL MOON FESTIVAL IS THE PERFECT
TIME TO ENJOY AN AUTHENTIC ASIAN-INSPIRED DINNER.

Festival fever
A feast for the senses, the annual Chinese Moon
Festival marks the time when the moon is at its
brightest. To celebrate this, friends and families will 
gather on Sunday September 27 to gaze at the
moon and feast on Asian-style dishes.

Thai green curry barramundi

serves 4 | prep 15 mins | cooking 30 mins

4 barramundi fillets, skin on

Oil, to fry
Curry
1 tbs coconut oil
4 tbs Valcom Authentic Thai Green Curry Paste
4 kaffir lime leaves, torn
2 long green chillies, deseeded and sliced
150ml TCC Premium Coconut Cream
30g coconut sugar
1 cup fish or master stock
2 tbs Squid Brand Fish Sauce
12 pea eggplants
1 carrot, peeled and finely sliced
To serve
Coriander leaves
Kaffir lime leaves
Lime cheeks
Bean sprouts
Steamed jasmine rice

1. Season barramundi with salt and pepper on both sides.

2. Heat oil in a non stick pan over medium heat and brown
The Moon Festival is a celebration of
fish well, skin side down, for 2 to 3 minutes. Turn and cook
family, food and ancient traditions
for a further 2 minutes. Remove and set aside. Peel off
skin and crisp in a hot oven for 5 minutes or until crispy.
3. Heat the coconut oil in a large frying pan over medium
heat, add the green curry paste, kaffir lime leaves and Take three
green chillies and stir fry for 1 minute. If you want to create easy and
4. Stir in coconut cream, coconut sugar, stock and fish impressive Asian-style dishes,
sauce and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add pea eggplants such as this Thai green curry with
and carrot, reduce heat and simmer for 6 to 8 minutes. barramundi, it’s time to take a
5. Add the barramundi to the sauce and simmer for a shortcut. The secret ingredients
further 5 minutes. are these products: TCC Premium
6. Serve curry with coriander and kaffir lime leaves, lime Coconut Cream; Squid Brand
cheeks, bean sprouts, crispy barramundi skin and rice. Fish Sauce; and Valcom Authentic
Note: Prawns, mussels or chicken can be used in place of Thai Green Curry Paste, all from • For more information, visit
the barramundi fillets. Pea eggplants may be replaced with leading supermarkets. www.asianinspirations.com.au/mf2015-delicious
okra or Thai apple eggplants.
 LIAN MADE
RA
T
AUS

E
D

& OWN

“I know how
incredibly busy
our lives are, mine
included, so I put this
range together based on
the soups that our family survive
on all year round at home. They are
all really hearty and will provide you with
plenty of nourishment. I hope that you enjoy
eating them as much as I did creating them. “

or call our National Distributor Raw Materials on 1300 305 129

 escape
VENICE COOKING SCHOOL 132 | LUXE LIVING IN TUSCANY 140
STYLE GUIDE TO MILAN 148 | KING VALLEY’S ITALIAN ROUTE 150

delicious. 131
CLASS ACT
Valli Little packs her bags and heads to Italy’s romantic
Veneto region to host a week-long cooking class in a
15th century Venetian villa – the definition of la dolce vita!
RECIPES & FOOD STYLING VALLI LITTLE PHOTOGRAPHY MARK ROPER
VALLI’S KITCHEN DIARY.

CLOCKWISE (from left):

a gondolier wearing the
distinctive striped shirt; the canals
of Venice; trays of local tomatoes
at Rialto Market; the historic
Castel Brando overlooks Cison di
Valmarino and Valmareno;
pumpkin & amaretti tortellini with
sage burnt butter (recipe p 136).

delicious. 133
 “The days were punctuated with visits to the
Rialto Market, which saw us returning home
with fresh fish, vegetables, wild mountain
strawberries and the first figs of the season.”
I HAVE BEEN TRAVELLING TO ITALY regularly for nearly forty years and each time it manages to
surprise me. On my most recent trip, I headed to Veneto to host my week-long Italian cooking class.
It’s here where much of the country’s rice is cultivated for risottos and pumpkins grow in the fertile
marshy terrain, their succulent flesh used for the famous tortelli di zucca, which I’ve used as inspiration
for my pumpkin tortellini. And of course in Venice, by the sea, you’ll find Italian seafood dishes like
risotto al nero di seppia (squid ink risotto) and spaghetti alle vongole (spaghetti with clams).
From our base at the beautiful Villa Casagrande in Cison di Valmarino we spent our days exploring
Italian cuisine during my twice-daily cooking classes, then enjoying the fruits of our labours each evening
on the terrace matched with locally produced wines such as prosecco and bardolino.
The days were punctuated with visits to the Rialto Market, which saw us returning home with all manner
of fresh fish, vegetables and special finds like wild mountain strawberries and the first figs of the season,
as well as outings to local restaurants and vineyards, and indulging in the enjoyable Italian pastime of
drinking coffee (and the occasional grappa) in the cafes around the local town square. This memorable
week exposed new finds, new friends and new foods. I can’t wait to return next year and do it all again.

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 VALLI’S KITCHEN DIARY.

FROM LEFT: the main piazza in

Cison di Valmarino; buzzing
Salizada Pio in Venice; grilled
pizzas; the cooking school guests
in front of Villa Casagrande.

GRILLED PIZZAS 1/2tsp caster sugar Preheat the oven to 220°C. Combine
MAKES 6 11/2 cups (225g) ‘00’ flour tomato, olives, capers, basil and 2 tbs chilli
Leftover oil will keep in a jar for 6 months. 2 tbs extra virgin olive oil oil in a bowl. Season and set aside.
Brush a chargrill pan with olive oil and
2 roma tomatoes, chopped For chilli oil, cook chilli and extra virgin place over medium-high heat. Divide the
1/4 cup (50g) gaeta (small black Italian olive oil in a pan over medium-low heat for dough into 6 equal portions, then roll out
olives) or kalamata olives, chopped 5 minutes or until simmering. Remove from each on a floured surface into a 12cm circle
1 tbs salted capers, rinsed, chopped heat. Cool, then strain, discarding chilli. about 3mm thick. In batches, chargrill
1 tbs chopped basil leaves, For the dough, combine the yeast, pizzas for 1-2 minutes until large bubbles
plus extra leaves to serve sugar and 1/2 cup (125ml) lukewarm water appear on the surface. Flip and cook for a
Olive oil, to brush in a small bowl. Set aside for 15 minutes further 1-2 minutes until lightly charred.
150g fontina cheese, cut into 2cm pieces or until frothy. Place the flour in a large Set aside. Repeat with remaining pizzas.
1/2 cup (40g) shaved parmesan bowl and make a well in the centre. Pour Scatter three bases with fontina and
6 thin slices prosciutto over yeast mixture with extra virgin olive top with tomato mixture. Top remaining
2 cups wild rocket leaves oil and 1/2 tsp salt, then stir to combine. three bases with parmesan. Transfer to
Bring dough together with your hands, two large baking paper-lined baking
CHILLI OIL then turn out onto a lightly floured work trays. In batches, bake for 4-6 minutes
3 long red chillies, sliced surface and knead for 5 minutes or until until cheese has melted. Drape prosciutto
3/4 cup (185ml) extra virgin olive oil smooth and elastic. Place the dough in over the parmesan pizzas and top with
a lightly oiled bowl and cover with plastic rocket, then drizzle with chilli oil. Tear
PIZZA DOUGH wrap. Set aside in a warm place for 1 hour extra basil leaves over the fontina pizzas.
11/2 tsp dried instant yeast or until doubled in size. Cut pizzas into wedges and serve.

delicious. 135
VALLI’S KITCHEN DIARY.

FROM LEFT: squid ink risotto;

a gondolier steers his gondola
through the Venetian canals; Valli
hunting for produce at Rialto
Market; guests stayed at the historic
15th century Villa Casagrande.

PUMPKIN & AMARETTI TORTELLINI For the pasta dough, place the flour in pumpkin, then mash coarsely. Cool
WITH SAGE BURNT BUTTER a food processor with 1 tsp salt. Beat slightly, then add the ricotta, egg yolk,
SERVES 4 eggs and extra virgin olive oil in a bowl, amaretti and 1/3 cup (25g) parmesan.
Makes about 46 tortellini. then add to the processor. Pulse several Mash together until combined. Season.

THANKS TO SINGAPORE AIRLINES FOR THEIR ASSISTANCE WITH THIS STORY.

times until the mixture forms rough Starting on the thickest setting of your
450g pumpkin, peeled, seeds removed, crumbs. Turn out onto a lightly floured pasta machine. Run dough through
cut into 3cm pieces work surface, then bring the mixture 2-3 times, folding it in half each time,
1/2 cup (125ml) olive oil together with your hands to form a ball. until elastic. Keep rolling the dough
1/4 tsp dried chilli flakes Knead for 2-3 minutes until smooth through the settings reducing the
1/2 onion, finely chopped and elastic. Divide the dough into three thickness each time, until 2mm thick.
1/4 cup (60g) ricotta equal portions, then enclose in plastic Cut into 8cm squares. Lay the squares
1 egg, plus 1 extra egg yolk wrap and chill for 30 minutes. on a clean work surface and place 1 tsp
3 small amaretti biscuits, crushed Preheat the oven to 180°C. Place the filling in the centre of each pasta square.
1/2 cup (40g) grated parmesan pumpkin on a baking paper-lined baking Beat the remaining egg in a small bowl
250g unsalted butter tray and drizzle with 1/4 cup (60ml) olive and use to brush the edges of the pasta.
1 cup loosely packed sage leaves oil. Season and sprinkle with the chilli Fold into a triangle, pressing edges
Semolina flour, to dust flakes. Cover tray loosely with foil and to seal and pushing out as much air as
bake for 40-45 minutes until tender. possible. Pinch together the two corners
PASTA DOUGH Heat remaining 1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil on the longer side. Place tortellini on a
400g ‘00’ flour in a frypan over medium heat. Add onion semolina-dusted tray and cover with a
4 eggs and cook, stirring, for 6-8 minutes until clean tea towel. Repeat with remaining
2 tsp extra virgin olive oil softened. Transfer to a bowl with the dough and filling.
 Place a saucepan of salted water 1 onion, finely chopped Melt the butter in a large heavy-based
over high heat and bring to the boil. In 2 garlic cloves, crushed frypan over medium-high heat. Cook onion
batches, cook the tortellini for 3-4 minutes 13/4 cups (350g) vialone nano for 4 minutes or until soft, but not coloured.
until they rise to the surface. Remove with or carnaroli rice Add the garlic and rice, and cook, stirring
a slotted spoon and transfer to an oiled 1 cup (250ml) dry white wine to coat the rice, for 1 minute or until
baking tray. 1 tbs olive oil fragrant. Add the white wine and cook,
Melt butter in a frypan over medium Lemon wedges, to serves stirring, for 2 minutes or until evaporated.
heat for 3-4 minutes until it begins to turn Add the stock, 1 ladle at a time, stirring
deep golden. Add sage leaves and cook GREMOLATA and allowing the stock to be absorbed
for 1-2 minutes until butter is browned 1/2 cup flat-leaf parsley leaves before adding the next, until all the stock
and sage is crisp. Toss the tortellini in the 1 garlic clove is used. Cook, stirring constantly, for
butter sauce, divide among bowls and Finely grated zest of 1/2 lemon 25-30 minutes until the rice is al dente.
serve topped with remaining parmesan. Season to taste. Cover the pan with a
For the gremolata, chop all ingredients lid and remove from heat.
SQUID INK RISOTTO on a chopping board until combined. Toss the squid with the olive oil and
SERVES 4 Set aside. season. Heat a chargrill pan or frypan
Cut open each squid hood, then using over high heat. Cook the squid, in
400g squid, tentacles reserved, cleaned a sharp knife, score the inside in a diamond batches, for 1-2 minutes until lightly
1.25L (5 cups) fish stock pattern and cut into 4cm pieces. charred and just cooked.
2 tsp squid ink (available from gourmet Place the stock in a saucepan over high Divide risotto among bowls and top
food shops and fishmongers) heat and bring to the boil. Reduce heat to with the squid. Sprinkle with gremolata
100g unsalted butter low and add the squid ink. Keep warm. and serve with lemon wedges.

delicious. 137
CLOCKWISE: spaghetti alle
vongole; public transport Venice
style; baked ricotta cheesecake
with wild strawberries; Chiesa
di Santa Caterina on the island
of Mazzorbo; multi-coloured
buildings on Burrano.

recipe for succe

Villa Casagrande is the family home of the Conti
Brandolini d’Adda family. Decorated in typical
Venetian style, it boasts hand-painted friezes,
opulent accommodation and a state-of-the-art
kitchen. This 15th-century villa at the foot of the
Dolomites is the perfect backdrop to a week filled
with delicious food, wine and a group of people
with a love of cooking and passion to learn.
I wouldn’t expect any less from my good friend
Sarah Roberts, who has 20 years experience
running cooking schools such as these in Italy.
Now partnering with Patrick Obert, they’re
hosting week-long classes exclusively in the
Veneto region. Join me in September 2016 for my
next week-long class. Visit: www.stirredtravel.com

138 delicious.
 VALLI’S KITCHEN DIARY.

“A BOAT TRIP ACROSS THE LAGOON TOOK US

TO THE TINY ISLAND OF MAZZORBO THAT IS
CONNECTED BY BRIDGE TO BURRANO, FAMOUS
FOR ITS MULTI-COLOURED HOUSES.”

SPAGHETTI ALLE VONGOLE remaining 2 tbs olive oil. Transfer to a into the mixture, beating slowly until well
SERVES 4 serving dish. Season to taste and serve hot. combined. Transfer to a lightly floured work
surface and knead until smooth. Enclose
1kg clams (vongole) BAKED RICOTTA CHEESECAKE in plastic wrap and chill for 30 minutes.
400g spaghetti WITH WILD STRAWBERRIES Meanwhile, combine sultanas and
1/2 cup (125ml) extra virgin olive oil SERVES 8 marsala in a bowl. Set aside to soak.
1 small bunch flat-leaf parsley, stalks Preheat oven to 180°C. Grease and line
finely chopped, leaves roughly 1/4 cup (45g) sultanas the base and sides of a 26cm springform
chopped 1/4 cup (60ml) sweet marsala cake pan with baking paper leaving
4 garlic cloves, crushed 1kg ricotta 2cm overhanging. Roll out pastry to a
200g cherry tomatoes, quartered 1 tbs finely grated lemon zest and 6mm-thick 22cm round, then use to line
1 dried chilli, chopped 1/4 cup (60ml) lemon juice the pan, pressing the pastry into the base
1 cup (250ml) white wine 1 tsp vanilla extract and sides. Trim excess dough, leaving
1 cup (220g) caster sugar 1cm pastry above the pan. Prick all over
Soak clams in cold water for 30 minutes 5 eggs with a fork, then line with baking paper
to remove any grit. Rinse well and drain. 250g wild or small strawberries and fill with pastry weights. Bake for
Cook pasta in boiling salted water Orange blossom honey or regular honey 15 minutes, then remove weights and
according to packet instructions. Drain, and icing sugar, to serve paper. Bake for a further 10-12 minutes
reserving 1 tbs cooking liquid. until golden. Set aside to cool. Reduce
Meanwhile, heat 1/3 cup (80ml) olive oil PASTRY oven to 160°C.
in a large frypan over high heat. Add the 90g unsalted butter, softened Whiz the ricotta, lemon zest and juice,
parsley stalks, garlic, tomato and chilli. 1/4 cup (55g) caster sugar vanilla, sugar and eggs in a food processor
Season and cook, stirring, for 2-3 minutes 1 egg until smooth. Drain sultanas, discarding
until fragrant. Add clams and white wine. 11/4 cups (185g) plain flour liquid, and add to mixture. Pour filling into
Cover and cook, shaking pan occasionally, 1/4 cup (35g) self-raising flour pastry case and bake for 50 minutes or
for 3 minutes or until clams are cooked until set with a slight wobble in the centre.
and shells open. For the pastry, using an electric mixer, beat Cool completely, then chill for 4 hours.
Toss pasta through sauce with parsley butter and sugar until thick and pale. Add Top with strawberries and drizzle with
leaves, reserved cooking liquid and egg and beat to combine. Sift the flours honey. Dust with icing sugar to serve.
 under e
It’s the stuff fairy tales are made of, says Lee Tulloch, who
takes a step back in time to visit a former medieval Italian
village, now immaculately transformed into an enchanting
boutique resort, by one of Italy’s most stylish families.
PHOTOGRAPHY TONY AMOS

140 delicious.
GLOBAL FLAVOURS.
T
uscany’s renowned strade The hotel is set within a 5,000-acre estate prized vineyards, in 2003. It opened as a
bianche (white roads), a network surrounded by fields and forest, a former hotel and spa in 2009 and a 19-hole golf
of unpaved motorways that are private hunting reserve, which still teems course followed in 2010. Now Rosewood
dusty in summer, undulate with wild boar, deer, foxes and hare. Hotel Group has recently partnered with
through the region’s famously gorgeous From the highest point on the road, Ferragamo to manage the property.
vineyards and olive groves. Follow one there are views across the Val d’Orcia Take away the beautifully manicured
of the old white roads from Bibbiano (Tuscany’s most revered valley) to the garden beds, the heated infinity pool
and you’ll soon find yourself in a truly fortressed town of Montalcino. And edged with enormous drifts of lavender
magical place: Castiglion del Bosco. beyond the forest you can see vineyards, and the boutique selling chic clothing and
Known in English as Castle in the Woods, centuries-old farmhouses and rambling jewellery, curated by Massimo’s wife,
it was once a medieval Italian village; driveways edged with cypress trees. Chiara, and you may in fact be walking
today, Massimo Ferragamo, son of the The road is, in fact, the old Via down a medieval thoroughfare. Stone
famous shoemaker and chairman of Francigena, which took crusaders and houses, a cobbled main street and villas
the fashion brand’s American division, merchants from Canterbury to Rome. set in gardens planted with rosemary to
has transformed it into possibly the The village of Castiglion del Bosco, keep out the wild boar are just part of the
most perfect hotel in the world. which intersects the road and is known appeal. One villa, Chiusa, for example,
Be prepared to eat and drink your way simply as Il Borgo, was built in 1100, was formerly the town’s police station.
to gastronomic nirvana here, especially then taken over by the Galleranis, Meanwhile, the ruins of the castle tower
if you’re a fan of the famed Tuscan red, a prosperous merchant family, in the overlook the village and the Church of San
brunello di Montalcino. Castiglion del 14th century. (Cecilia Gallerani is Michele Arcangelo, which has a beautiful
Bosco is connected to a 62-hectare wine Leonardo da Vinci’s subject in The fresco by Gothic painter Pietro Lorenzetti,
estate and guests can take part in the Lady with the Ermine.) It continued to discovered during restoration. Next door,
harvest, as well as guided tastings, plus change hands over the centuries, but the former priest’s house has been turned
classes at the in-house cookery school. became derelict in the 18th century. into the hotel’s casual trattoria, Osteria La
There’s six kilometres of bumpy white Massimo Ferragamo, nostalgic for the Canonica, while a grand villa nearby is
road before you reach the gates of the Tuscany of his childhood, purchased now the dining room of the gastronomic
old village-cum-resort, but the slow the 800-year-old estate, with its chapel, Ristorante Campo del Drago, a member’s
going is rewarded with fabulous scenery. ruined castle, forest, farmhouses and club and stylish lobby lounge. There are

142 delicious.
 GLOBAL FLAVOURS.

CLOCKWISE (from far left):

Castiglion del Bosco’s stylish lobby;
one of its many terraces; master the
art of pasta at La Canonica Cooking
School; the property’s manicured
gardens; rolling fresh pasta;
lounge by the heated infinity
pool; artichokes in bloom; produce
from the kitchen garden is used
throughout the hotel’s restaurants.
OPENER: one of the village’s
picturesque cobbled streets.
 “Blackberry plants climb up the ancient walls, wild strawberries ramble
in the beds and there’s an orchard of apricot, fig, peach and cherry trees.”

sweeping views from its terrace, where you available at the La Canonica Cooking The next day, we tour the vineyards
can dine al fresco from a breakfast buffet School, held in the beautiful upstairs with manager Sabine, who explains the
to full degustation in the evening. kitchen and dining room of the former different qualities of the various plots of
Our one-bedroom villa sits below the priest’s house, where the rope that land. The grapes are all picked by hand,
castle and next door to the spa. It’s set rings the chapel’s bell hangs. I’m keen as the weight of the tractor adversely
in large gardens with a romantic wishing to learn how to make pasta, so I don affects the soil and vine roots. The region
well, old wood-burning oven, a terrace a monogrammed apron and get stuck of Montalcino encompasses 24,000
with market umbrellas, and immaculately into mixing the eggs and durum flour, hectares of which 3,600 are vineyards,
trimmed hedges. In the mornings, giant learning how to get the right texture where the brown-red brunello has
hares graze on the lawn. Inside, the villa by folding the dough in three each time been produced since the 14th century.
is the size of a small house, with a large before it runs through the pasta machine. It was once a rare and highly prized
living and dining room furnished with It needs to be thin enough so you can wine, but since the region was granted
plump sofas and beautiful fabrics, see your fingernails through it. Denominazione di Origine Controllata
a good-sized kitchen and an enormous My revelation is in the sauce. The chef (DOC) status in the 1960s, the number
bathroom with twin-sized vanities, has me help him finely chop the white of small producers has now grown to
a deep bath and Ferragamo amenities. onions, then cut three different kinds more than 200.
The attention to detail is astounding. of tomatoes into small pieces and salt The Castiglion del Bosco’s flawless cellar
The closets go for miles with plentiful them (always before placing them in door, planted all around with white roses
cedar hangers, shoe trees and a shoe the oil). This is all gently cooked off with and herbs in tubs, is a handsome building,
shine kit of real brushes in a suede pouch, bruised basil leaves. where you can also tour the wine vats and
hooded bathrobes and black thongs for Meanwhile, a ragu involves slowly sit down to a guided tasting of several
the pool. Everything is finely crafted with cooking finely chopped celery, carrot and vintages. If you have the wherewithal,
leather or suede; even the safe is covered onion in oil, then adding three kinds of there’s also an invitation-only Wine Club
in leather. A person could move right in, mince: beef, veal and pork. The meat is featuring its own plush, rotund cellar
and some do stay for the summer. broken up, a good slurp of red wine is where members’ vintages are held in
For our first meal, in the trattoria sitting added, it’s all cooked down and the specially designed refrigerated cabinets.
on the terrace overlooking the valley, tomato sauce is added, then cooked In addition to culinary adventures,
it’s superb comfort food: a starter of for a few minutes more. “Where is the Castiglion del Bosco offers extraordinary
bresaola, followed by thick pici pasta garlic?” I ask. “There is no garlic in Tuscan activities, including night safaris, archery,
with beef ragu and mushrooms, and cooking when onions are used”, is the astronomy, landscape painting, tennis
crispy salmon with zucchini slivers and answer. It’s either one or the other. and golf lessons, horseback riding,
mashed potatoes, washed down with the I finish with a lesson in making biscotti photography, Italian classes, mountain
Castiglion Del Bosco on-site winery’s dipped in warm Marsala sabayon. I get to hiking and fishing. Children are welcome,
premium Millecento brunello 2008. keep the apron and recipes, but the best too; there’s even a kid’s club and we run
Much of the hotel’s produce comes thing is sitting down to dine on it all. into a gang of happy children playing tag
from the carefully tended kitchen garden, Over at Ristorante Campo del Drago, in the street. Other guests during our
which can be visited via a gate near the named for the brunello vintage from the stay include a Korean pop star, a Chinese
church and is fertilised with the ash from finest vineyard in the area, chef Enrico department store billionaire and the
the wood-burning ovens. It’s flourishing Figliuolo creates seasonal menus made actor Ben Stiller, who is accommodated
in summer with rotated crops of all the with local produce and some tasty in privacy in one of the nine restored
Italian staples, from zucchini (three types) ring-ins, such as lobster, which flavours farmhouse villas tucked in the vineyards.
and artichoke to the more exotic cavolo a luscious pasta. Drinking some of the When it’s time to leave and hit those
nero. Blackberry plants climb up the Campo del Drago sangiovese seems white roads again, we find our car has
ancient walls, wild strawberries ramble mandatory, no? The desserts are also been cleaned of dust and there’s a
in the beds and there’s an orchard of incredible: tiramisu with coffee ice cream farewell gift of housemade sticky fruit
apricot, fig, peach and cherry trees. and thick hot chocolate. A chocolate gels inside. It’s this thoughtfulness,
The hotel’s charming young chefs lead trolley follows the cheese trolley, above all else, that makes the Castle
the private or group cookery lessons cementing my love of this place. in the Woods so enchanting.

144 delicious.
 GLOBAL FLAVOURS.

DINING IN THE VAL D’ORCIA

The UNESCO-listed valley is full of
lovely medieval villages and many great
bars, cafes and restaurants that often
CLOCKWISE (from above): the view don’t require a reservation. Once the
from the pool; top wines from the cellar; kindergarten and school on the grand
savour the famed Tuscan red brunello di
estate of La Foce, DOPOLAVORO
Montalcino; an age-old statue; take up
a spot on the grand terrace for aperitivo. (Strada della Vittoria, 90, SI) is worth
a visit. For lunch try the panini (flavours
include tender pork, red onion and
mustard), or enjoy dinner cooked from
local produce, accompanied by regional
wines. OSTERIA DA GAGLIANO in the
small town of Sarteano (Via Roma, 5)
serves traditional Tuscan dishes, such as
wild boar ragu or pici, in authentic rustic
style. In the same town, don’t miss the
experience of dining in a converted
15th-century convent and its gardens,
weather permitting, at SANTA CHIARA
(Costa Santa Chiara, 30, SI). Set at
the old city gates of medieval village
Monticchiello, OSTERIA LA PORTA
(Via del Piano, 1, SI) has a terrace with
sensational views of the surrounding
countryside. Try the Cinta Senese cured
meats and book ahead. PODERE IL
CASALE (Strada Comunale del
Borghetto, SI), between Pienza and
Montepulciano, is a delight. Owners
Sandra and Ulisse are pioneers of
organic farming in the district and will
take you on a tour of the cheese factory,
followed by lunch, if you book.
INSIDER.

CHECK IN
1
Flying the banner for Langham
hotel group’s new upscale label,
CORDIS HONG KONG (above)
rises 42 storeys above Mongkok in
Hong Kong’s Kowloon. The five-star
hotel offers a midnight hawker food
buffet and is a stone’s throw from
serious shopping at Langham Place
Mall. cordishotels.com/hongkong.

2
Watch out Milan, there’s a new
player in town with the first

travel
Italian offering from MANDARIN
ORIENTAL (left). Situated on Via
Andegari in stunning refurbed 18th
century buildings, it’s everything
you want in a hotel in the design
and fashion capital – central
Hot destinations, cool stays, travel essentials & everything in transit. location, Michelin-starred chef,
luxurious spa and style in spades.
mandarinoriental.com/milan.

FINAL call
• It’s safe to say global travel
authority Lonely Planet is a
definitive source on local food
haunts, which explains why
they’ve dipped their toes into
cookbooks. One of their first
BLING BLING titles, FROM THE SOURCE: ITALY,
The diamond-studded Rado HyperChrome watch in chocolate brown, rounds up the country’s best
ëÀi` LÞ wi -ÜÃà VV>Ìi] à Ìi ÕÌ>Ìi v`ÛiÀ½Ã >VViÃÃÀÞ dishes, with recipes from the
WORDS YASMIN NEWMAN

– just don't try to eat it! $9,125, (03) 8844 3300. Bottled la dolce vita? kitchens that created them. $34.99, lonelyplanet.com.au.
Paradiso] Ìi iÜ «iÀvÕi LÞ ,LiÀÌ
>Û>] à >à VÃi >à Ì }iÌð • Perth institution SUBIACO HOTEL nabs a winner with the
$80/30ml, 1800 812 663. Dress down in style with these OTT Dolce appointment of executive chef David Whitting, who cut his teeth with
& Gabbana «>ÌVÜÀ
i>ÌiÀÌÀ>iÀðfÇ{Ó]>ÌViÃv>ðV°>Õ° French chef Eric Ripert in the Cayman Islands and departed Crown
Perth’s Bistro Guillaume for the coveted role. subiacohotel.com.au.
Edited by Heidi Finnane: @runsandheids @heidifinnane

146 delicious.
 2
4 5

10 14

11

12
13
15

ROMAN holiday
Everything you need to fit in like a local on your
next trip. Audrey Hepburn, eat your heart out.
PHOTOGRAPHY DIEU TAN STYLING LUCY TWEED MARKET EDITOR EMMA FREEBAIRN

1. H&M two-tone swimsuit, $39.95, hm.com/au. 2. Fendi ’Orchidea’ geometric 16

sunglasses in beige and red, $690, (02) 9540 0500. 3. Nespresso ’CitiZ’ travel
mug, $25 (330ml), nespresso.com. 4. Joseph 2014 cold-pressed extra virgin
olive oil, $26.75, simonjohnson.com. 5. Riccadonna prosecco, $14.99, 1800 859
939. 6. Romanesque Art: Pocket Visual Encyclopedia, $14.99, arielbooks.com.
au. 7. Laura Ashley ’Almada’ throw in cranberry, $129, laura-ashley.com.au.
8. Amouage ’Memoir Woman’ Travel Spray perfume, $259, libertine
parfumerie.com.au. 9. Philosophy ’No Reason to Hide’ SPF 20 tinted
moisturiser in medium, $50 (30ml), davidjones.com.au. 10. Guerlain ‘Maxi
Lash So Volume’ mascara in deep black, $51, (02) 9695 5678. 11. Guerlain
‘Rouge D’Enfer’ colour lacquer nail polish, $30, (02) 9695 5678. 12. Karen
Murrell natural lipstick in True Love, $29.95, stylepatisserie.com. 13. Giorgio
Armani ’Si’ eau de toilette, $90 (50ml), davidjones.com.au. 14. Trenery ’Kate’
woven leather belt, $69.95, trenery.com.au. 15. Bottega Veneta ’Multicolor
Silk Foulard’ silk scarf, $510, (02) 9239 0188. 16. MaxMara patent leather
court shoes in red, $750, (02) 8084 9113.
INSIDER.

8am
ESPRESSO HIT
Get your buzz on with a quick and lethal

MILAN
Milanese espresso hit. Stand at the bar as
the locals do, or take a seat at Taveggia
(Via Uberto Visconti di Modrone, 2) for a
quick cup and a fresh brioche (they serve
more than 25 types of brioche here!).

Cultured and urbane, Italy’s epicentre GRAND DAME

10am
of design is the perfect fix for food and Wind your way to the Duomo (Piazza del
fashion, writes Kerrie McCallum. Duomo, Milano), the city’s grand Gothic
cathedral. Go early to beat the crowds and
walk to the top of its wedding cake-perfect
spires. After working up an appetite, head
across the square to Peck (Via Spadari, 9),
Milan’s legendary providore offering a serious
selection of charcuterie, cheese, caviar, fresh
pasta, and wine from their cellar.

SHOP TILL YOU DROP

11am
For seven floors of shopping, high-tail it
to La Rinascente department store (Piazza
del Duomo). On the roof you’ll find an
outdoor terrace so close to the cathedral
you can almost touch it. Even though it
gets busy, it’s the perfect spot for morning
tea or an aperitivo.

HIGH SOCIETY
1pm
Da Giacomo (Via Pasquale Sottocorno, 6)
is a sophisticated institution and a favourite
of the fashion crowd. Visit for the risotto alla
Milanese (risotto with parmesan and saffron).
For a less formal experience, sister site
Giacomo Bistro (just around the corner) is
more intimate and like lunching in your best
friend’s library (if they had one!). The dessert
trolley is worth it for the wait alone.

FASHION FOOT FIRST

4pm

PHOTOGRAPHY PIERO CRUCIATTI

10 Corso Como (Corso Como, 10) is a
unique complex with an artfully curated
clothing, jewellery and fragrance store,
a vibrant outdoor cafe, book shop, and
rotating exhibitions. Still hungry? Alla
Cucina delle Langhe (Corso Como, 6)
is great for risotto while US-Italian chef
Mario Batali‘s Eataly (Piazza XXV Aprile,
10) has four floors of fabulous food.

TIMELESS TRATTORIA
7pm

Bagutta (Via Bagutta,14), near ‘luxury mile’

is a traditional trattoria perfect for the
old-school Italian experience, complete with
flirty waiters and plates laden with pasta or
fried zucchini flowers. You may even spot
George Clooney sitting at his favourite table
for antipasti. Need a nightcap? Bar Basso
(Via Plinio, 39) may not be the latest or
greatest, but it has a cult following and
serves meticulous cocktails – their signature
is the wrong negroni, which replaces gin
with sparkling wine.

148 delicious.
LOCAVORE.

Rows of plantings
at Pizzini Wines

150 delicious.
LOCAVORE
Christian Dal Zotto takes time out from pouring prosecco at his family-run cellar
door to give us the lowdown on Victoria’s King Valley, an Italian-inspired getaway
with laidback trattoria dining, artisan producers and no passport necessary.
WORDS SARAH LEWIS PHOTOGRAPHY MARK ROPER
 1
FARM TO FORK
KICK OFF YOUR KING VALLEY ADVENTURE WITH LUNCH AND A WINE TASTING
AT DAL ZOTTO (4861 WANGARATTA-WHITFIELD RD, WHITFIELD). HOUSED IN
RESTORED TOBACCO KILNS, THIS LOUD, LIVELY TRATTORIA IS OPEN FOR LUNCH
FROM THURSDAY TO SUNDAY; ON FRIDAY NIGHTS, IT’S A LOCAL FAVOURITE
FOR WOOD-FIRED PIZZA AND PASTA. THE BLACKBOARD MENU IS PUNCTUATED
WITH FAMILY-GROWN PRODUCE. MICHAEL’S WIFE, LYNNE, REARS FLAVOURFUL
DORPER LAMB, WHICH MIGHT STAR IN A LUSCIOUS RAGU WITH CONCHIGLIE
PASTA, OR CALZONE WITH A CAVOLO NERO AND CURRANT SALAD.

2
V
ictoria’s King Valley beats with an Italian heart. In a fertile patch of land
wedged between the Great Dividing Range and the New South Wales border, POSH PUB
post-war immigrants from Italy first turned their hands to fruit and tobacco Christian’s uncle and aunt Fred and Katrina
farming. In the past 30 years, those fecund tobacco fields have been turned over to Pizzini are behind the MOUNTAIN VIEW HOTEL
vineyards, and this cool climate region now produces Italian varieties to rival the (4 King Valley Rd, Whitfield), home to a welcoming
homeland, such as sangiovese, nebbiolo, pinot grigio and prosecco. The food scene, front bar and bistro, and a fine-dining restaurant. In
too, boasts a strident Italian accent, with fresh pastas, handcrafted cheeses, local the pub, tuck into hearty braises and roast pork belly;
olives and salami the regional mainstays. next door, German chef Ben Bergmann offers
Traditions may be strong, but there’s nothing staid about this gourmet region, polished tasting menus, with standouts including
located an easy three-hour drive from Melbourne. Christian Dal Zotto (above right), the blue eye with smoked carrot and a hay and
of Dal Zotto Wines, is part of the next generation of wine families here. His father Otto mustard mousse, and his signature King Valley
and older brother Michael oversee the production of pinot grigio, barbera and prosecco berry consomme with yoghurt ice cream.
(the Dal Zotto’s pioneered this party-perfect fizz in Australia), while Christian keeps the There’s a killer cheese trolley and a
glasses charged and the bocce ball rolling at the family’s rustic-luxe cellar door and wine list of local gems.
trattoria in Whitfield. Here he offers up a bite of the region’s food and wine scene.
 LOCAVORE.

3 GARDEN PARTY
Under the leadership of
fourth-generation family members

5
Katherine and Caroline Brown,
BROWN BROTHERS (right – 244
Milawa-Bobinawarrah Rd, Milawa)
teams history with youthful energy.
Enjoy a tutored wine tasting in the
historic cellar door, including the SICILIAN STAMP
top-shelf Patricia range, experimental
vintages and easy-drinking 18 Eighty At Politini Wines
Nine collection. Buy a bottle to savour
in the beanbag-dotted garden, or
(65 Upper King
settle in for a multi-course meal at River Rd, Cheshunt),
Patricia’s Table. Here, chef Douglas
Elder presents a regional menu Sicilian-born
matched to Brown Brothers wines
– think spiced rabbit pie (above).
owners Salvatore
(Sam) and Josie
Politini made the
4 CLASS ACT
Just down the road from Dal Zotto, Fred and
switch from tobacco
Katrina Pizzini (right) also front their eponymous to grapes in 1989.
winery and cooking school, PIZZINI WINES
(175 King Valley Rd, Whitfield). “Pizzini offers “It’s a really homey,
that authentic Italian family hospitality, and their
sangiovese is one of the best known in Australia,”
rustic-style cellar
says Christian. Sample Fred’s fine Italian varieties, door pouring some
including crisp arneis, perfumed nebbiolo
and savoury sangiovese. Or, sign up for one of little-known Sicilian
Katrina’s hands-on cooking classes. The Pizzini’s
also offer accommodation in a cosy two-bedroom
varieties, such as
cottage and alfresco events throughout the year. nero d’avola and
grecanico. Nonna
Josie also offers
cannoli classes,”
says Christian.
delicious. 153
cucina italiana
6 In the regional hub of Wangaratta, locals flock to the cavernous shed
that is RINALDO’S CASA CUCINA (8-10 Tone Rd, Wangaratta) for homey
Italian fare from Adam Pizzini (pictured). “It’s not just because Adam’s my
cousin; I really do think he’s one of the best Italian chefs in Victoria,” says
Christian. “He cooks classic, rustic Italian food and his pastas are amazing.
It’s just like eating in Nonna’s kitchen.” Comforting mains include old-school
spaghetti and meatballs, and pillowy handmade gnocchi with beef ragu.
 LOCAVORE.

8
GREAT OUTDOORS
Work off all of that indulgence with a hiking, horse-riding or
cycling experience. Christian leads HEDONISTIC HIKING tours
(hedonistichiking.com) throughout the region. The Victorian Alps and
Vineyards tour is a two-day trek through Victoria’s north east, including
picnic lunches, regional wines, and Italian-style dinners (if you’re lucky,
that might mean a spit-roasted pig cooked by Otto Dal Zotto).

9 SHARE
TACTICS
On the road into Milawa,
SAM MIRANDA (1019
Snow Rd, Oxley) boasts a
family-friendly restaurant
and contemporary cellar
door. “It’s a nice, relaxed
place with a beautiful sunny

7 CAFE STAPLES
Christian’s go-to for all-day
breakfasts and lunch on-the-run
terrace, a great spot to enjoy
a tasting plate and a glass
of prosecco” says Christian.
is CAFE DERAILLEUR (38 Along with the share
Norton St, Wangaratta). platters, the Mediterranean
“They do this amazing pulled menu offers tapas plates of
pork sandwich in a brioche bun arancini, trout rillette and
with coleslaw, lime mayonnaise prosecco-battered prawns.
and char siu sauce [pictured
above],” he says. “They also
serve the best coffee in
10
Wangaratta; I’ll always call ARTY APPROACH
in before jumping on the AT THE KING VALLEY GALLERY
train to Melbourne.” (BELOW LEFT AND RIGHT – 4905
WANGARATTA-WHITFIELD RD, WHITFIELD),
A ROTATING LINE-UP OF LOCAL ARTISTS
SELL BOLD CANVASES, QUIRKY METAL
SCULPTURES, HANDCRAFTED FURNITURE
AND CRAFTY JEWELLERY. THE
GALLERY ALSO RUNS HANDS-ON
SCREEN-PRINTING WORKSHOPS
AND MARKETS.

delicious. 155
LOCAVORE.

11
PEDAL TO PRODUCE
For a gourmet treasure hunt
around the region, borrow a bike
and helmet from BROWN BROTHERS (above
– 244 Milawa-Bobinawarrah Rd, Milawa), then
follow the Pedal to Produce trail. Call into
THE OLIVE SHOP (1605 Snow Rd, Milawa)
for local olives, oils and artisan wares;
MILAWA MUSTARDS (1597 Snow Rd, Milawa)
for handcrafted mustards spiked with honey,
herbs, whisky and chilli; and the MILAWA
CHEESE FACTORY (left –17 Factory Rd,
Milawa) for indulgent dairy goods and
fresh-baked bread. “The Milawa Gold is one
of the stinkiest cheeses you’ll come across,
but the flavour is just fantastic,” says Christian.
THE MYRTLEFORD BUTTER FACTORY
(thebutterfactory.com.au) is also worth a try.

12
SWEET
DREAMS
In the tiny town of
Myrrhee, MT BELLEVUE
(mtbellevue.com) offers a choice of
FRESH APPROACH
Another branch of the far-reaching Pizzini
family tree, Arnie and Jo Pizzini are currently
putting the finishing touches to their new
cellar door and restaurant at CHRISMONT
13
self-catering cottages with wood fires, (right – 251 Upper King River Rd, Cheshunt).
barbecues, kitchens and cosy country The property boasts one
furnishings. Prices start from $215 per of the best views in the region, and
double per night. Just down the road, their approachable wines span the
CASA LUNA (casaluna.com.au) is home Mediterranean La Zona range.
to contemporary king and queen suites
with in-room dining options featuring light

14
antipasto dinners and indulgent five-
course affairs paired with local wines. FOODIE FESTIVALS
Prices start from $225 per double per
night, including breakfast. In Whitfield, On November 14-15, the
base yourself at NO. 1 BAKERY LANE
(facebook/No1BakeryLane) or JESSIE’S
King Valley celebrates its Italian spirit
CREEK COTTAGE (jessiescreekcottage. with LA DOLCE VITA, a food, wine and music
com). Comfortably sleeping six people
in three bedrooms with full kitchens, two festival including alfresco feasts, while on the
bathrooms and barbecue areas, both
cottages are within walking distance of
June long weekend, cellar doors and restaurants
Dal Zotto and the Mountain View Hotel. team up for Weekend fit for a King.
156 delicious.
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Recipe index SEPTEMBER 2015
Directory
Armadillo & co, (02) 9698 4043,
armadillo-co.com
STARTERS AND LIGHT MEALS Ricotta gnocchi with Brussels sprouts, The Bay Tree, (02) 9328 1101,
Buffalo mozzarella with bay oil (v)............118 bacon and almonds ...............................54 thebaytree.com.au
Cheat’s baccala mantecato with Roasted alla norma with rigatoni (v) ..........95 Beautiful Spaces, (02) 9310 7776,
fennel oil ................................................75 Roasted fennel & pine nut polpette (v)......84 beautiful-spaces.com.au
Duck prosciutto with Sfincione with cavolo nero, Becker Minty, (02) 8356 9999,
pickled tamarillo and grissini ...............118 speck and pecorino ...............................76 beckerminty.com
Gnocco fritto with rosemary salt................79 Spaghetti alle vongole ............................139 Bonnie and Neil, (02) 9384 2234,
Grilled pizzas ............................................135 Squid ink risotto .......................................137 bonnieandneil.com.au
Heirloom tomato, radish & Testaroli with almond, tomato Chee Soon & Fitzgerald, (02) 8399 1305,
yoghurt flatbread panzanella (v) ............75 & garlic pesto ........................................76 cheesoonfitzgerald.com
Incredible farinata (v) .................................82 Veal girello with polenta Chef’s Warehouse, (02) 9211 4555,
Kisir (bulgur salad)....................................102 and pea & broad bean salad .................48 chefswarehouse.com.au
Petros’s clams ...........................................102 SWEET THINGS Citta Design, 1800 256 723, cittadesign.com
Pizza fritta .................................................118 Baked ricotta cheesecake Cotton On, 1800 420 176, cottonon.com.au
Polpette (meatballs) ...................................43 with wild strawberries...........................139 Country Road, 1800 801 911,
Pumpkin & amaretti tortellini Bruschetta with baked strawberries countryroad.com.au
with sage burnt butter (v).....................136 & honey ricotta.....................................112 Crave Wares, (02) 9328 6429,
Sorrel pesto piadina (v) ..............................86 Dalmatian fig tart .....................................104 cravewares.com.au
Spicy chickpeas with soppressata Espresso madeleines ...............................108 Di Lorenzo Tiles, (02) 9698 8737,
and eggs ..............................................108 Ferrero Rocher protein balls ....................124 dilorenzo.com.au
Terzini salad (v) .........................................119 Gluten-free pistachio amaretti morbidi ...127 Emily Ziz Style Studio, (02) 9380 4180,
Vignarola romanesca (braised artichokes Kingston biscuits ......................................120 Emilyziz.com
& spring vegetables) ..............................28 Liquid tiramisu..........................................120 Francalia, 02 9948 4977, francalia.com.au
Zuchetti with lemon butter, mozzarella Nutella scrolls.............................................52 Freedom, 1300 135 588, freedom.com.au
and prosciutto ........................................91 Raw nutella bars .........................................52 Jardan Furniture, (02) 9663 4500,
Zuppa di ostriche e patate Rawmisu ...................................................124 jardan.com.au
(oyster & potato soup) ...........................28 Ricotta cheesecake with Koskela, (02) 9280 0999, koskela.com.au
MAINS roasted blueberries ..............................124 MCM House, (02) 9698 4511,
Bigoli in cassopipa (pasta with shellfish) ..102 Rhubarb, orange & rosemary cake ............40 mcmhouse.com
Broccolini, mushroom Sugar-free raspberry sorbet .....................124 Mud, (02) 9569 8181, mudaustralia.com
& ricotta conchiglie ................................91 Sugar-free rockmelon & yoghurt sorbet ..124 Simon Johnson, 1800 655 522,
Chickpea gnocchi with Sugar-free vegan stracciatella gelato ......124 simonjohnson.com
harissa roasted ocean trout....................93 The new lemon tart....................................79
Chorizo carbonara......................................96 Torta di riso (rice pudding cake PRIVACY NOTICE NewsLifeMedia collects
Eggplant lasagne (v) ..................................84 with pine nut praline) .............................28 your personal information to assist us in providing
Eggplant parmigiana (v).............................44 DRINKS AND EXTRAS the goods or services you have requested,
to process your competition entries and to
Garlic & spinach gnocchi Byzantine spice mix ............................... 102 improve our products and services. We or any
with lemon and pecorino (v) ..................84 Healthy raw nutella.................................. 52 of our Australian related companies may be in
Gnocchi con granseola Muffin pan seeded bread rolls............... 112 touch by any means (including email or SMS)
at any time to let you know about goods, services
(gnocchi in crab sauce).........................102 Rockmelon, lemon or promotions that may be of interest to you.
Lamb larb spaghetti ..................................97 & white pepper jam ........................... 111 We may also share your information with other
Gorgonzola, mushroom (v) denotes vegetarian recipes persons or entities who assist us in providing
our services, running competitions or with
& leek crespelle bake (v) ........................82 other companies who provide prizes for our
Mussel & artichoke cavatelli.....................119 Thanks Our meat competitions or reader offers. This company
is part of a global media and entertainment
Parsnip spaghetti all‘amatriciana ...............95 is supplied by Vic’s
company. We would like to share your information
Patrick’s moussaka....................................104 Meats (vicsmeats. with these overseas-related companies so that
Pea & ham rotelle ......................................97 com.au). We use they can contact you with special offers. If you
would prefer us not to, please contact our privacy
Poached chicken & spelt fettucine Global knives, Scanpan
officer at privacy@newslifemedia.com.au or write
with kale pesto .......................................93 cookware and utensils and Cuisinart to Locked Bag 5030, Alexandria, NSW 2015.
Ragu alla potentina appliances from Sheldon & Hammond You can gain access to your personal information
by contacting our privacy officer.
(pork ragu with bucatini) ........................28 (for stockists, tel: 1800 209 999).

158 delicious.
 gourmet lifestyle

valley
truff l e s. c o
m.au art.
by jac clark www.thefermentary.com.au
ar
ww w. t a m www.morabon.com.au Raw and Wild Fermented

Rothvale
WINERY &
Tropical Cuisine & Nature Discoveries

ACCOMMODATION
Hunter Valley Vineyard Cottages

223 Deasys Road

Pokolbin NSW 2320
Cellar door:
www.joshandsue.com.au 10am-4pm every day.
p. 0401 716 450 For all bookings call 7UXIÁHV &DYLDU
e. sales@joshandsue.com 02 4998 7290 Phone 07 4096 8026
&KDPSDJQH DQG PRUH
/joshandsue @joshandsue www.rothvale.com.au www.rainforestbounty.com.au
ZZZWKHWUXIÁHPDQFRPDX

B arambah Organics continues to produce internationally

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gourmet lifestyle
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 gourmet lifestyle
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 The last restaurant
I ate at was THE
To impress, I head
TOWN MOUSE
to BILLY KWONG
in Melbourne. The
(pictured). The food,
smoked pork jowl
wine and service are
(left) was fantastic.
impeccable and it’s
a fun vibe.

The city I’d eat my

last meal on earth in?
ROME, for the
most seasonally
rich and respectful
HIT LIST cuisine around.

andrew
CIBEJ
We pin down the restaurateur behind some of Sydney’s
My favourite kitchen
gadget is a BOTTLE
favourite enotecas (Vini, Berta, and 121BC), to ask for OPENER. It helps
his top food haunts and Rome’s best coffee. me drink my beer.

The best spot

AFTER A FOODIE for a caffeine
BLOWOUT, I LIKE TO fix? SAMPLE

THE TOWN MOUSE PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTOFFER PAULSEN

RESTORE BALANCE COFFEE in
WITH A NEGRONI FROM Surry Hills
KINGSTON PUBLIC – straight up, BILLY KWONG PHOTOGRAPHY PENNY LANE

BAR & KITCHEN the best filter

IN NEWTOWN. IT'S MY coffee around.
ULTIMATE COCKTAIL In Italy, it’s SANT’
AND THEY DO EUSTACHIO IL
A GREAT JOB AT IT. CAFFE in Rome.

My takeaway vice is a burger from GRILL’D. I go in

times of physical duress, which makes them even better!
162 delicious.
 Ratho is home to one of Australia’s oldest golf courses, trout streams, picture-perfect views and a homestead
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*Package includes 3 nights pre-booked Innkeepers Hotels Pass and 4 day economy car hire. Available for travel 1 Sep – 24 Dec 2015.
TAS0470-001