Printing On Proteinic Fabrics

Nature of Proteinic Fabrics
The protein fibers are formed by natural animal sources through condensation of a-amino acids
to form repeating polyamide units with a various substituent on the a-carbon atom. In general,
protein fibers are fibers of moderate strength, resiliency, and elasticity. They have excellent
moisture absorbency and transport characteristics.
Two major classes of natural protein fibers exist and include
• Keratin (hair or fur) and
• Secreted (insect) fibers.
Major Protein Fiber Sources
Wool, silk, alpaca/Llama, mohair etc
* term wool is used for every keratin protein fibres
Printing on Proteinic Fabrics
Printing on wool
It has been observed that in case of wool, dyeing is the most commonly used technique
to enhance aesthetic appeal. Printing is not commonly used either at small scale or large
scale to produce beautiful attractive designs. It has been reported that hardly 2% of total
wool in the world is printed.
Printing on silk
Silk provides a beautiful flat surface for printing, and the natural fibre absorbs ink evenly
and effectively. One thing to remember is that the thinner the fabric, the less ink will be
absorbed, so expect a subtler effect than on a thicker cotton or wool base. Silk can tend
to move around or slightly shrink throughout the printing process, so we prewash the
fabric and use table adhesive to keep the delicate fabric firmly in place.
Why printing on wool is challenging?
Printing on wool is not ideal because of physical and morphological nature of wool. The hairy nature of
woolen fabric operates against the production of fine, crisp designs which may be printed on the smooth
fabric.
Wool does not normally absorb the print paste very well, which may be because of scales on its surface.
The more layers of wool fibres are violated, the more dye absorbent the wool will be.
Despite of all these factors that come in way of getting a well printed fabrics, printing on wool fabrics has
been carried out from quite a while and now the ways are even perfected over the time.
Printing of wool consists of more steps than for other fibres.
Direct printing on wool
Wool is usually printed by applying a thickened dye paste containing
conventional wool dyes (acid, premetallised and reactive dyes) directly
on a pretreated fabric surface. It is the largest category of printed
fabrics.
Of all the wool that is printed, direct printing methods are the most
prominent ones. It is because the wool fibres do not absorb dye paste
very easily and the more hurdles and processes that come in way of
preparation of the paste and its application on the fabric, less chances
of a smooth print are there.
Two quite different methods of preparation are resorted to, namely
the chlorination of the wool; and the precipitation of stannic acid on
the fibr
Various printing technologies under direct printing are rotary screen
printing, Automatic flat bed screen printing, roller printing etc.
Direct printing on silk
The colours and methods employed are the same as for wool, except that in the case of
silk no preparation of the material is required before printing, and ordinary dry steaming
is preferable to damp steaming.
Both acid and basic dyes play an important role in silk printing. Alizarine and other
mordant colours are mainly used for any goods that have to resist repeated washings or
prolonged exposure to light.
After steaming, silk goods are normally only washed in hot water, but those printed
entirely in mordant dyes will stand soaping, and indeed require it to brighten the colours
and soften the material. Some silk dyes do not require heat setting or steaming. They
strike instantly, allowing the designer to print colour upon colour.
Rotary Screen Printing
This continuous method of printing applies color
through a perforated cylindrical screen. As the screen
rotates, a squeegee device inside of the screen
pushes the print medium through the screen and
onto the fabric.
The fact that we can control the amount of paste
being applied makes this method perfect for
proteinic fabrics. If, the yarn count and other physical
or chemical properties changes with different fabrics,
we adjust the amount of paste being discharged
(with a few additional changes too) and we’re good
to go.
Why Rotary Screen Printing?
VERSATILE DESIGNS FAST AND EFFICIENT
In present modern times, the technology we Rotary screen printing is the fastest printing
have allows for method for cotton with typical speeds ranging
• the quick changeover of patterns, from 50 to 120 yards per minute depending
upon design complexity and fabric construction.
• have few design limitations, and
Rotary screen printing can accommodate
• can be used for both continuous and
discontinuous patterns. • long fabric lengths, and
On average, rotary screen printing machines • provides a continuous and economical

operate between 12 and 24 screens, which process.
allow for between 13 and 25 colors respectively Rotary screen printing’s environmental
(+1 color for the fabric color). advantage is efficiency due to its fast speeds and
high yields.
How the process is carried out?
The hollow screens, each applying the appropriate motif, are
arranged sequentially as in roller printing, but they are aligned
over a moving horizontal blanket that carries the fabric between
the two. As the fabric moves forward the screens rotate and
apply the color.
The squeegee blade is flexible to accommodate any variations in

pressure required to force the paste evenly through the mesh of
the screen across the width of the fabric.
One of the features that makes this method very suitable, since
generally woolen fabrics are thicker than the fabrics used in
summer-wear. And sometimes, squeegee is replaced by a metal
rod held in position by a magnetic field This is more suited to
heavier fabrics, since the mechanism imposes a higher limit on
the minimum amount of paste that can be delivered.
Future of Rotary Screen Printing
While rotary screen printing is not one of the newest printing technologies, it still accounts for the majority of
today’s printed textiles. Innovations in this area are focused on automation, efficiency and sustainability. New
developments include laser assisted screen alignment systems to reduce registration issues, and new systems
that recapture and reuse print paste or wastewater. Other developments are focused on improving print paste
flow from the screens to the fabrics.
Summary
Advantages Disadvantages
•Fastest printing method •Not profitable for short

•Quick changeover of patterns yardages.
•Versatile design and special •Some color limitations, prints
effect options only spot colors rotary-screen printed (with reactive dyes) worsted
•Cost effective for long •Not suitable for fine detail merino wool fabric
production runs •Cannot print in garment form
Automatic flat bed screen printing
An automatic Flat-bed Screen printing Machine is an improvement over the hand screen
printing process-an improvement effected by mechanisation.
The machine consists of a printing table (flat bed), an

endless conveyor belt to bring the fabric on to the table
under the screens periodically, a number of screens, a
special mechanism for lowering the screen on the
required parts of the fabric squeegees driven by motor.
A special conveyor under the table to collect extra paste,

an arrangement for gumming the fabric to the conveyor
belt and a drier.
Squeegee makes one or more strokes over the screen

after white the screens are lifted again.

Printing On Proteinic Fabrics

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Printing On Proteinic Fabrics

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Nature of Proteinic Fabrics

On average, rotary screen printing machines • provides a continuous and economical

The squeegee blade is flexible to accommodate any variations in

•Fastest printing method •Not profitable for short

The machine consists of a printing table (flat bed), an

A special conveyor under the table to collect extra paste,

Squeegee makes one or more strokes over the screen

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