HOMEOWNERS

Seismic Retrofit Guide

Improve Your Home’s Earthquake Resistance

800-999-5099 | www.strongtie.com
PLEASE READ
Purpose of this document: This Seismic Retrofit Guide is designed to promote public safety and welfare by reducing the risk of
earthquake induced damage to existing homes. The following guidelines are prescriptive minimum standards based on the 2006
International Existing Building Code and are intended to improve the seismic performance of homes, but will not necessarily
prevent earthquake damage. These guidelines only apply to homes with crawl spaces and cripple walls. They address reinforcing
the cripple wall, but not the stories above. For conditions other than those shown in the following drawings, a structural engineer
or other qualified designer should be consulted. Before starting any work, check with your building department for local building
requirements, which may include stricter standards than those prescribed here.

The information in this guide is intended to show how Simpson Strong-Tie® products should be installed. It is not intended for
use by designers. Designers should refer to the current Simpson Wood Construction Connectors catalog for loads and other
critical design information.


Why Should I Retrofit My Home?

D
uring an earthquake, the strength of a home
is put to the test. Ground forces try to tear the
home apart and in many cases, cause severe
damage. If you live in an area prone to earthquakes, it’s
important that the structural frame of your home is strong
enough to absorb an earthquake’s energy (see Continuous
Load Path, page 4). Fortunately, advances in structural
engineering, lessons learned from past earthquakes and
research performed by the scientific community have
paved the way for the development of new construction
techniques that better equip homes to withstand an
earthquake. Local and regional building codes now require
all new homes to meet these higher construction and
safety standards.

Since many existing homes were constructed prior to

the development of these newer code requirements, a
retrofit may be necessary to increase structural safety. A
retrofit adds bracing and reinforcement to strengthen the
critical connections within a home. A home that has been
retrofitted is able to resist much greater earthquake forces
and has a lower risk of being damaged.

Upgrading a home to the latest building code standards, scale. The testing and research being conducted is helping
however, is not always practical for most older homes. to advance product development and improve building
This type of upgrade would require the homeowner to hire design and safety.
a licensed structural engineer and a specialty contractor
to perform a detailed structural evaluation. This evaluation Simpson Strong-Tie is committed to helping homeowners
would include the removal of many finish materials, understand how to strengthen their homes for
such as sheetrock, stucco, siding, etc., to examine the earthquakes and other natural disasters. This guide is
construction of the home. designed to help you understand the basic principles
of a home retrofit and provide step-by-step instruction
Fortunately, there are less intrusive ways to retrofit on ways to strengthen your home for the next big
older homes and improve their structural safety and earthquake.
performance during an earthquake. Simpson Strong-Tie is
the leader in structural product solutions that increase the
strength and safety of homes. Our products are used to
connect and secure the structural frame of a house.
Reasons to Retrofit:
• Your home will have a better chance of surviving
In 2003, Simpson opened a research laboratory to the next big earthquake and with less property
better understand how earthquakes, high winds and damage and loss of life.
other natural disasters affect building performance. The • Retrofitting your home may lower earthquake
lab’s state-of-the-art testing equipment can recreate the insurance premiums and deductibles.
magnitude of such earthquakes as the 1989 Loma Prieta • Strengthening your home can add resale value.
quake in California, which measured 6.9 on the Richter

A home that has been retrofitted is able to resist much greater earthquake
forces and has a lower risk of being damaged.

F-PLANS07 4/07 © 2007 SIMPSON STRONG-TIE COMPANY INC. Seismic Retrofit Guide | 
 Earthquake Basics
Before you begin a retrofit project, it’s important that
you are familiar with the basic principles of home
construction and how earthquakes impact your home.

Earthquake Basics: Lateral and Uplift Forces

During an earthquake, a home experiences two types of forces: lateral forces and
uplift forces. Lateral (or shear) forces are horizontal forces that result in back and
forth (side to side) movement, also known as racking. Lateral forces can shake the
house and weaken its frame and cause it to slide off the foundation. Uplift forces
are vertical forces that result in up and down movement. Uplift forces can cause the
house to overturn and lift off the foundation.

Using a continuous load path throughout the home strengthens the entire structure How Earthquake
and helps it to resist lateral and uplift forces. Forces Affect A Home

STEP FOUR:
Secure roof
to upper
story. Earthquake Basics: Continuous Load Path
Building codes now require homes to meet higher structural
design standards, including the use of a “continuous load path.”
Continuous This method of construction involves creating a series of solid
Load Path* connections throughout the home. These connections are created
by using a system of wood framing, metal connectors, fasteners
STEP THREE: (like nails and screws) and shearwalls.
Secure upper
story to first
floor. These connections are critical during an earthquake. A continuous
load path redistributes external forces from an earthquake by
transferring these forces from the frame of the house to the
foundation. A home is more likely to withstand an earthquake and
stay intact when each part of the house is connected together.

In general, houses built within the last 20 years, should have been
constructed with a continuous load path. To verify this, you can
STEP TWO:
Secure first hire a professional contractor or structural engineer to perform
floor to
cripple a structural evaluation on your house. When hiring a design
wall.
professional, you want to make sure they are licensed and have
a good reputation. You should ask for references and check with
STEP ONE: the Better Business Bureau.
Secure cripple
wall to
foundation.

*Note: This Seismic Retrofit Guide does not attempt to create a continuous load path
within a home, but provides practical solutions to reinforce your home.

 | Seismic Retrofit Guide F-PLANS07 4/07 ©2007 SIMPSON STRONG-TIE COMPANY INC.


Do I Need to Retrofit My Home?

There are certain types of homes that are more likely to need a retrofit than
others. A quick analysis of your home can help determine if your home fits
that criteria.

1. Am I living in an area prone to earthquakes?

There are geographic areas that are considered high seismic regions. These seismic areas are based on the likelihood of an
earthquake occurring and its severity. The easiest way to find out if you are living in a high seismic area is to call your local
building department and ask if you are in Seismic Zone 3 or 4 (for California residents) or Seismic Design Category D, E or F.
These designations are assigned to regions with high seismic potential.

2. Was my home built within the last 20 years?

As a general rule of thumb, homes built within the last 20 years were designed to conform to stricter building codes and will
be better equipped to resist the force of an earthquake. Homes built prior to that timeframe are typically more vulnerable to
earthquake damage.

3. Is my home built on a raised foundation?

If your house is not built directly on a concrete slab, chances are it’s built on a raised foundation. This means the home
was built on a system of posts, beams and “cripple walls” (cripple walls are short wood-framed walls running underneath
and around the perimeter of the house). These homes typically have crawl spaces underneath them. They are susceptible
to damage because the supporting structure under the house may not have been built to resist seismic forces and thus is
considered a weak area. Past earthquakes have shown these areas are highly suceptible to structural failures as shown in the
illustration below.

Foundation and House Slides Off Cripple Walls House Slides Off
Cripple Walls Cripple Walls Buckle and Collapse Foundation

4. Is my home built on a hillside?

Homes built on a hillside typically have raised foundations and crawl spaces as those described above and can experience
similar failures. However, these failures tend to be more severe because the posts and cripple walls supporting the home are
built at different heights due to the uneven terrain.

5. Is there living space above my garage?

Garages are vulnerable areas in a house due to the large garage door opening. Because of this large opening, the narrow
walls on either side of the garage door must be designed to resist earthquake forces. This is extremely important if there is a
living space above the garage because these rooms add weight that the garage must support. Current building codes require
Foundation and House Slides Off Cripple Walls House Slides Off
that these narrow walls be specially designed to resist earthquake forces. Older homes, however, typically did not address
Cripple Walls Cripple Walls Buckle and Collapse Foundation
this issue and are more vulnerable to damage during an earthquake as shown in the illustration.

If you live in an older home with a living space above the garage or on a hillside, you’ll need to consult with a licensed
structural engineer for design solutions.

Home Before Earthquake Home Tears Apart During Earthquake Home Detaches and Garage Collapses

F-PLANS07 4/07 © 2007 SIMPSON STRONG-TIE COMPANY INC. Seismic Retrofit Guide | 


Conduct Your Own Survey Rim Joist

O
nce you have identified that there is a potential
need to retrofit your home, you should then Top Plates
conduct your own inspection and evaluate the
structural integrity of your home. Hiring a professional
to help with this evaluation is recommended, but not
required. Since home retrofits are not mandatory, building
departments typically do not require the use of an
engineer, architect or a licensed contractor as long as the
home falls within certain prescriptive parameters (Note:
you should contact your building department to make
sure there are no special requirements). The building
code does provide construction details for retrofitting the
supporting perimeter walls of the crawl space. With the Cripple Wall
right tools, a motivated homeowner can do this themself.
However, before getting out the hammer and nails, you
must access your crawl space and evaluate the following
items:
1. Is the top of the crawl space perimeter wall properly
attached to the floor system?
2. Are the crawl space perimeter walls too tall?
3. Are the interior columns attached properly to the
beams they are supporting?
4. Are the bottom plates of the crawl space perimeter
walls properly attached to the foundation? Mudsill
5. Are the crawl space perimeter walls reinforced with
plywood or oriented strand board (OSB) panels?
Foundation
Note: It’s important when you evaluate your crawl space to check existing
lumber and new wood framing materials for decay and rot. When wood is
exposed to moisture, it can rot and possibly weaken the wood structure.
If you suspect wood decay, you’ll need to contact a licensed structural
engineer and/or contractor for design solutions.

1. Is the top of the crawl space perimeter wall properly attached to the floor system?
On top of the crawl space wall rests the floor system. Around the outside of the floor system and the perimeter wall system is what
is known as the rim joist. The rim joist should be attached to the top of the wall with metal connectors. The connectors should be
located approximately 16 inches on center.

2. Are the crawl space perimeter walls too tall?

In order to use this retrofit guide, the perimeter walls of your home must not be too tall. To determine this, you need to measure the
distance from the top of the concrete foundation to the top of the perimeter wall (or the bottom of the floor system). In certain cases,
an engineer must design your retrofit solution, these include:
• If your home is one or two stories and the perimeter wall height is greater than 4 feet at any point
• If your home is three stories and the perimeter wall height at any point is greater than 14 inches
• If your home is more than three stories

 | Seismic Retrofit Guide F-PLANS07 4/07 ©2007 SIMPSON STRONG-TIE COMPANY INC.
 Floor System

A35
Framing
Angle

Ventilation
Holes

Sheathing

Titen HD® with

Bearing Plate

Blocking

Pre-retrofit Post-retrofit
Non-reinforced Cripple Wall Reinforced Cripple Wall

3. Are the interior columns attached properly to the beams they are supporting?
Often there are interior columns supporting the floor system (not shown above, see page 16). The tops of these columns should be
attached to the floor beams with a metal connector.

4. Are the bottom plates of the crawl space perimeter walls properly attached to the foundation?
Building codes require that B|,-inch diameter anchor bolts should be placed at certain locations to prevent the home from sliding off
of the foundation. According to the code, anchor bolts must be located within 12 inches from the end of each plate line and no more
than 6 feet on center for one and two-story homes. The bolts should have a bearing plate between the top of the sill plate and the nut.
The bolts should be undamaged and rust-free.

5. Are the crawl space perimeter walls reinforced with plywood or OSB panels?
Perimeters walls must be reinforced to prevent the house from falling over during an earthquake. This is typically done by installing
plywood or OSB sheathing panels on the outside of the walls. Older homes often did not use this type of sheathing. Instead siding
boards were used, but not attached to prevent failures. The building codes recommend the installation of ½-inch plywood or OSB
panels to the inside face of the walls in strategic locations to strengthen the perimeter walls.

F-PLANS07 4/07 © 2007 SIMPSON STRONG-TIE COMPANY INC. Seismic Retrofit Guide | 
 I Know I Need to Retrofit My Home,
How Do I Get Started?
Now that you have identified the areas of your home that may need reinforcing,
this next section addresses how you can do the work yourself.

Before you begin your retrofit project, you’ll need to determine whether or not your home has cripple walls. Cripple walls are
the short wood-framed walls running underneath and around the perimeter of your house. These walls are constructed on top
of the foundation and are generally 12 to 30 inches high, but can be as high as 12 feet when located on a hillside.

Start by answering the following questions:

• Does your house have a cripple wall between the foundation and floor framing?
• If your house has a cripple wall, how tall is it?
• If your house has a cripple wall, is the mudsill wider than the studs?

Based on your answers, you can then follow one of the retrofit scenarios listed below. Please see the page numbers referenced
under each step for specific how-to instructions.

Stud
NO CRIPPLE WALL
Step 1 Step 2 Step 3 Floor
System

Install UFP Install A35 Install AC Mudsill

Foundation Plates Shear Angles Post Caps Foundation

Page 11 Page 15 Page 16

CRIPPLE WALL LESS THAN 3 ft TALL

Cripple Wall Height Step 1 Step 2 Step 3 Step 4 Step 5

Install Install Install A35 Install AC

Mudsill & Studs Cripple Wall
Sheathing UFPs Shear Angles Post Caps — Less Than
Same Width
Page 13 Page 11 Page 15 Page 16 3' Tall

Install Install Install Install A35 Install AC

Mudsill Wider
Blocking Sheathing UFPs Shear Angles Post Caps
Than Studs
Page 12 Page 13 Page 11 Page 15 Page 16 Mudsill & Studs Mudsill Wider
Same Width Than Studs

CRIPPLE WALL 3 ft TO 4 ft TALL

Cripple Wall Height Step 1 Step 2 Step 3 Step 4 Step 5
Cripple Wall
Install Titen Install Install A35 Install AC 3' or Taller
Mudsill & Studs
HDs & BPs Sheathing Shear Angles Post Caps —
Same Width
Page 10 Page 13 Page 15 Page 16

Install Install Titen Install Install A35 Install AC

Mudsill Wider
Blocking HDs & BPs Sheathing Shear Angles Post Caps
Than Studs
Page 12 Page 10 Page 13 Page 15 Page 16 Mudsill & Studs Mudsill Wider
Same Width Than Studs

Note: If your cripple wall is taller than 4 ft., please contact an engineer.

 | Seismic Retrofit Guide F-PLANS07 4/07 ©2007 SIMPSON STRONG-TIE COMPANY INC.


Sketch A Plan
Once you’ve determined the steps to take,
next you’ll need to sketch out a plan. 25'

Start by making an outline of the perimeter walls of your house,

showing where the studs are and listing all dimensions. Many of
the directions in the following sections will reference the spacing at
which hardware must be installed or the percentage of a wall that
must be covered with plywood/OSB sheathing panels. Once you know 20'
the dimensions of the walls you can determine how many pieces of
hardware or how much plywood/OSB you will need.
25'

45'

25'

50'

Palm Nailer Tools Needed for Retrofitting

Tool | Purpose
Measuring Tape | Measuring walls, spacing, lumber
Circular Saw | Cutting plywood and 2x lumber
Rotohammer Drill | Drilling into concrete
Carbide Tipped Drill Bits | For use with rotohammer (bit must share
(1/2" & 5/8" diameter) compatible shank type with rotohammer)

Rotohammer Socket Wrench or Impact Wrench

| Installing Titen HD® screw anchors
Drill with 15/16" Socket
Drill with 3/8" driver attachment | Driving SDS screws for UFP installation
Hammer | Installing A35 angles in areas with clearance
Hammer or Nail Gun | Nailing off sheathing and installing blocking
| Installing nails in sheathing or A35 angles and
Palm Nailer (optional)
blocking in areas with little vertical clearance
| Required for nail gun or palm nailer, also handy
Air Compressor
for cleaning dust out of holes for Titen HD
Chalk Line | Marking nail lines on sheathing
3" Hole Saw Drill Bit | Drilling ventilation holes in sheathing

Note: Tools such as rotohammers and air compressors are commonly available at tool rental centers.
For an explanation of technical terms and symbols, please reference the glossary on pages 17 and 18.

F-PLANS07 4/07 © 2007 SIMPSON STRONG-TIE COMPANY INC. Seismic Retrofit Guide | 
 Installing the Titen HD to
Anchor the Mudsill
The Titen HD® is a screw anchor that is used to anchor the mudsill to the
foundation. It’s easy to install with just a few tools.

Installation Details EXISTING

NEW 1/2" SHEATHING
WALL FINISH
• Anchor diameter: ⁵⁄₈ in. INSTALLED AFTER
NEW 2x BLOCKING TITEN HD's.
WITH 4-10d EACH
• Drilled hole depth: See table for embedment depth BLOCK TO SILL
• Anchor length: This will be determined by the thickness of EXISTING 2-2x
MUDSILL NEW 5/8"
the mudsill. See table. DIA. ANCHOR
WITH 2x2x³⁄₁₆
• Anchor spacing: 6 ft. on center (o.c.) for one and two-story homes PLATE WASHER
(See elevation
EXISTING
• Washer: A 2 in. by 2 in. by ³⁄₁₆ in. thick steel plate washer FOUNDATION
for placement)

(sold separately) is required in seismic areas WALL

(Simpson Bearing Plate model BPB\,-2 fulfills this requirement.)

Table 1 | Determining Titen HD Length Anchoring Mudsill to

Mudsill Hole Depth Titen HD Foundation with Titen HD
Thickness1 in Foundation2 Model No.
(in) (in) (Size)
THD62600H AnchorOption1.eps
156O 5
(6 " x 6")
Cripple Wall 3’ to 4’

THD62600H
2 456O
(6 " x 6")
THD62612H
256O 456O
(6 " x 656O")
THD62800H
3 556O
(6 " x 8")
THD62800H
356O 5
(6 " x 8")
Note: 1. Mudsill may be single thickness or double if
blocking is required for sheathing purposes.  12" or greater between
anchor and corner.
2. Minimum required embedment for the Titen HD
in this application is 3C\v". Hole depths above  12" or greater between
anchor and mudsill break.
have been adjusted for available anchor sizes.
 Anchor spacing must
be 6'-0" o.c. or less.

Instructions
1. Starting at each corner of the foundation, mark where each anchor will be installed. Make the first mark 12 inches from the
corner (end of the mudsill). From that point, measure and mark for each anchor every 6 feet, with no anchor being further
than 12 inches from the break between two pieces of mudsill. If you need to adjust this spacing to account for a break in
the mudsill or corner, reduce the spacing between anchors.
2. Using a rotohammer drill (with a B\," diameter bit) drill down through the center of the mudsill (or mudsill and blocking)
into the top of the concrete foundation to the appropriate embedment depth shown in Table 1. (Note: Embedment is the
depth of the hole from the top of the concrete, not the top of the mudsill.)
3. Clean the concrete dust from the hole using compressed air.
4. Insert the Titen HD into the hole, with the square washer in place, and drive the anchor into the hole using a socket wrench
with a ZB\zn" socket. Drive the anchor until it and the plate washer are snug against the mudsill.
5. Repeat around the perimeter of the foundation.

10 | Seismic Retrofit Guide F-PLANS07 4/07 ©2007 SIMPSON STRONG-TIE COMPANY INC.


Installing the Universal

Foundation Plate (UFP)
The UFP is a retrofit foundation plate that allows the cripple wall to be anchored
to the foundation from the side. This allows the product to be used in applications
where minimal vertical clearance exists.

Installation Details EXISTING

WALL FINISH NEW 1/2"
• Foundation Plate: Model UFP10 SHEATHING
NEW 2x BLOCKING INSTALLED
WITH 4-10d EACH BEFORE
• Fasteners to mudsill: (5) - Simpson SDS ¼ x 3 screws BLOCK TO SILL UFPs.
(included with the UFP10) EXISTING 2-2x
MUDSILL
• Anchors to foundation: (2) - ½ in. by 5 in. Titen HD screw anchors
®
NEW UFP10
RETROFIT
• Hole depth in foundation: 4¼ in. PLATE
EXISTING
• Foundation plate spacing: 6 ft. on center (o.c.) FOUNDATION
WALL

Anchoring Mudsill to
Foundation with UFP
Less Than 3'
Cripple Wall

AnchorOption1.eps

 12" or greater between

UFP and corner.
 12" or greater between
UFP and mudsill break.
 Anchor spacing must
be 6'-0" o.c. or less.

UFP

Instructions
1. Starting at each corner of the foundation, mark where each plate will be installed. Make the first mark 12 inches from
UFP10 FRONT VIEW.eps
the corner (end of the mudsill). From that point, measure and mark for a UFP every 6 feet, with no plate being less than
12 inches from the break between two pieces of mudsill. If you need to adjust this spacing to account for a break in the
mudsill or corner, reduce the spacing between plates.
2. Place the UFP against the bottom of the cripple wall and foundation so that it aligns correctly (as shown in the diagram
above). Using a drill with a C\," driver attachment, drive the SDS screws into the side of the mudsill (or through the
sheathing into the mudsill).
3. Using a rotohammer drill with a ½" diameter bit, use the UFP as a template and drill holes in the foundation 4 inches deep.
(Note: Embedment is the depth of the hole from the face of the concrete, not the face of the UFP.)
4. Clean the concrete dust from the hole using compressed air.
5. Insert the Titen HD through the UFP and drive the anchor into the hole using a socket wrench with a ¾" socket. Drive the
anchor until it is snug against the UFP.
6. Repeat around the perimeter of the foundation.

F-PLANS07 4/07 © 2007 SIMPSON STRONG-TIE COMPANY INC. Seismic Retrofit Guide | 11
 Installing Blocking
In applications where the mudsill is wider than the cripple wall studs, blocking
will need to be installed on top of the mudsill to provide a nailing surface for the
sheathing. In order for sheathing to strengthen the cripple walls, it needs to be
properly nailed on all four sides.

Installation Details
• Material: 2x material equal in width to existing studs
• Nailing: (4) - 10d nails per block
• See page 14 for instructions on determining how much blocking/
sheathing your house will need and where it will be located.

Cripple Wall Prior to “Blocking” Retrofit Cripple Wall with Blocking

Instructions
1. Measure the space between cripple wall studs and count the number of “stud bays” (the area between two studs) that will
be covered with sheathing (see page 14 for instructions).
2. Cut the appropriate number of blocks. (Cut blocking appropriately for a tight fit.)
3. Place the block in the stud bay on top of the mudsill, so that the interior edges of the block lines up with the inside edge of
the cripple wall stud.
4. Nail the block to the mudsill with four 10d nails per block.
5. Repeat for each stud bay until all bays to receive sheathing have blocking.

Note: Although not necessary, if you decide to use pressure-treated wood to provide blocking, you’ll need to select connectors and fasteners with the proper
protective coating. Pressure-treated wood is more corrosive than non-treated lumber. The application and type of pressure-treated wood you use will help
determine the connector and fastener coating. For more information, visit www.strongtie.com and click on Corrosion.

12 | Seismic Retrofit Guide F-PLANS07 4/07 ©2007 SIMPSON STRONG-TIE COMPANY INC.


Installing Sheathing
Nailing sheathing onto the inside of cripple walls is required to strengthen the
cripple walls under your house. Correct nailing during installation is crucial to the
walls’ performance.

Installation Details
• Material: ½ in. thick plywood or OSB
• Nailing: 8d common nails
• Every 4 inches on center (o.c.) into the studs at the edges of the panel
• Every 12 inches o.c. into the studs
• See page 14 for instructions on determining how much blocking/
sheathing your house will need and where it will be located.

Min.
1"
Cut Ventilation
Holes Directly Over
Anchor Bolts
(For inspection)

Min.
1"

Cripple Wall
with Sheathing

Instructions
1. Consulting your sheathing plan, measure the height and length of each sheathing run to verify dimensions. Measure from
the outside edges of the two end studs in the run to determine overall length. Measure from the top of the foundation to the
top of the cripple wall top plate to determine sheathing panel height. (Note: Seams between panels must occur over a stud.)
2. Cut plywood/OSB to size. A chalk line is helpful for making straight lines on the sheathing to ensure cuts are straight.
3. Once the pieces are cut, put them in place to verify fit. On the outside face of the sheathing, mark where the center of each
stud will be underneath. Using a chalk line, mark a line to show you where to nail in order to hit the center of the stud. For
situations where two pieces of sheathing are joining over a stud, measure in 1/4" from the edge of each piece of sheathing
and mark a line down each panel. This will show you where to nail each panel in order to hit the stud under the seam.
4. Nail the sheathing in place driving an 8d common nail every 4 inches o.c. around the edges, and every 12 inches o.c. in the
center of the panel. When nailing into a double top plate or nailing seams between panels, follow a staggered nailing pattern
(as shown in the diagram).
5. Drill two 3" diameter holes in the sheathing for each stud bay (the space between two studs) for ventilation (see diagram
above for hole placement). If the cripple wall is less than 18" tall, only one hole is required.

F-PLANS07 4/07 © 2007 SIMPSON STRONG-TIE COMPANY INC. Seismic Retrofit Guide | 13
 How Much Blocking and/or
Sheathing Do I Need?
Before you begin cutting lumber for blocking and/or sheathing, you will need to
determine how much sheathing your house will require and where to install it.
The guidelines are as follows:

• One-story house: 50% of the length of each cripple wall must be sheathed.
• Two-story house: 75% of the length of each cripple wall must be sheathed
• The sheathing on any one wall can be installed in multiple runs in order to
accommodate pipes, ductwork, etc. However, the length of any single run of
sheathing must be equal to twice the height of the cripple wall onto which it will
be installed. Example: The cripple wall is 3' tall, so no run of sheathing can be less
than 6' long.
• There must be sheathing at each corner running in each direction. Once again:
Multiplying the cripple wall height by 2 equals minimum length of sheathing run.
Example: If your cripple wall is 3' tall, you’ll need 6' of continuous sheathing at
each corner running in each direction.
• No runs of sheathing can be more than 25' apart from center to center.

Using these guidelines, look at the sketch of the outline of your foundation/cripple walls and determine where you need to put
sheathing to satisfy the guidelines above. Each sheathing run must begin on a stud and end on one so that the ends can be
properly nailed off. Any seams between pieces of sheathing must also occur over a stud for nailing purposes. It is a good idea to
go underneath your house to verify that you will be able to install sheathing per your plan.

25'

Shading Indicates
Sheathing 20'

25'

45'

25'

50'

14 | Seismic Retrofit Guide F-PLANS07 4/07 ©2007 SIMPSON STRONG-TIE COMPANY INC.


Installing A35 Shear Angles

Now that you have anchored the cripple wall to the foundation, you need to
reinforce the connection between the cripple wall and the floor system. This
is accomplished by installing A35 framing angles between the top plate of the
cripple wall and the rim joist/blocking of the floor system.

Installation Details
• Framing angle: Model A35
• Fasteners: (12) - 8d x 1 ½ in. nails
• Spacing: 16 inches o.c.

A35 Framing Angles Connect the

Cripple Wall to the Floor System

Instructions
1. Starting at one corner of the house, meaure and mark every 16 inches along the top plate of the cripple walls. If you need
to adjust this spacing to account for a break in the top plate or corner, reduce the spacing between angles.
2. Place the A35 at the corner between the top plate and the rim joist or blocking.
3. Install the nails using either a hammer or palm nailer.
Note: A palm nailer will greatly increase the speed and ease of installing nails into the cripple wall top plate.

F-PLANS07 4/07 © 2007 SIMPSON STRONG-TIE COMPANY INC. Seismic Retrofit Guide | 15
 Installing AC Post Caps
Once the perimeter of the house has been secured, the connection between
beams and posts in the middle of the floor should be retrofitted as well. The AC
Post Cap is a unique two-piece solution that addresses a variety of lumber sizes.

Installation Details Table 2 | AC Sizes / Fastener Data

• Based upon the dimension of the post, select the Post
correct model AC Post Cap. You will need 2 caps Model
Width Fasteners
No.
per post to beam connection. (in)

AC4 356O
Instructions Post:
1. Place the AC onto the post to beam intersection and fill AC4R 4 8- 16d Nails
all round nail holes with 16d common nails.
Beam:
2. Repeat for the other side of the connection. AC6 556O 12- 16d Nails

AC6R 6

EXISTING
FIRST FLOOR

EXISTING
JOISTS

EXISTING
FLOOR BEAM

NEW AC
POST CAP
EXISTING AC Post Cap
POST

EXISTING
PLATE
EXISTING
PIER

Typical Interior
AC Post
postDetail
Cap.eps

16 | Seismic Retrofit Guide F-PLANS07 4/07 ©2007 SIMPSON STRONG-TIE COMPANY INC.


Glossary of Retrofit Terms

Anchor Bolt
Anchor bolts are used to secure the mudsill to the foundation. An anchor bolt is a metal rod, usually with a threaded end, that
is set in concrete and is embedded in the foundation or post-installed in existing concrete (see Titen HD).

(Metal) Connectors
Connectors are steel components that connect the frame of the house together. Connectors are used where two pieces of
framing material meet. They are designed to strengthen a home and increase its ability to resist earthquakes, high winds and
other forces.

Crawl Space
Crawl space refers to the space beneath a home, typically 18 to 48 inches high that is supported by short wood-framed walls
known as cripple walls.

Cripple Walls
Cripple walls are short wood-framed walls between the first floor and foundation. They run underneath and around the
perimeter of a house. These walls are constructed on top of a home’s foundation and are generally 12 to 30 inches high, but as
high as 12 feet when located on a hillside. Cripple walls are vulnerable to earthquake damage and should be properly braced
and bolted to the foundation.

Fasteners
Fasteners typically refer to nails, screws, bolts or anchors. Fasteners are used in conjunction with connectors to join framing
materials together.

Foundation
A foundation is the block wall, concrete wall or concrete slab a house sits on.

Joist (Rim Joists, Floor Joists)

Joist refers to the wood members that make up part of the floor system of a house. Rim joists run along the perimeter of the
floor system.

Lateral Forces
Lateral forces are horizontal forces acting to move a home from side to side.

Load
Load is an engineering term that refers to the weight of the material that is to be supported. The allowable load is the maximum
design load that can be imposed on a connector or an anchor.

Mudsill (Wood Sill or Sill Plate)

A mudsill is the wood frame that attaches to the top of the foundation and to the floor system above. The mudsill should be
properly bolted to the foundation.

OSB/Plywood Sheathing
OSB and plywood sheathing are panels made from wood or fiber materials that are applied to the outer studs, joists, and
rafters of a home to strengthen the structure.

Post (Column)
A post is a load-bearing vertical wood member.

Retrofit
A retrofit adds additional bracing, anchoring or any improvement to a home.

F-PLANS07 4/07 © 2007 SIMPSON STRONG-TIE COMPANY INC. Seismic Retrofit Guide | 17
 Glossary of Retrofit Terms (continued)

Shearwall
A shearwall is a reinforced wall in a home that has been engineered to help resist the lateral forces that are caused by an
earthquake. Shearwalls are commonly built by hand on the construction site by attaching wood sheathing and holdown
connectors to a section of the wood framing, and then bolting them to the foundation. Pre-manufactured shearwalls are also
available, which are typically narrower than site-built walls and offer more design flexibility.

Stud
A stud is a vertical wood member in the framework of a wall for supporting framing and finishing materials.

Titen HD®
The Titen HD is a high-strength screw anchor that is used to bolt the mudsill to the foundation. (It’s installed in existing
concrete by drilling a hole and driving in the anchor with a wrench.)

UFP
The Universal Foundation Plate (UFP) is a metal connector that connects the mudsill to the foundation. It is used when cripple
walls are less than 3 feet tall or the mudsill is slightly offset from the foundation.

Uplift Forces
Uplift forces are vertical forces acting to lift a home.

Ventilation Holes
Ventilation holes are circular holes that are cut into sheathing to help prevent the wood from decay and rot. Proper ventilation
is important when installing new sheathing onto the inside of cripple walls. To determine the size and placement of ventilation
holes, see page 13.

General Technical Symbols & Abbreviations

Symbol/
Terminolgy Description

" Inches (in.)

' Feet (ft.)
o.c. on center
2x Refers to 2x4, 2x6, 2x8, etc.

18 | Seismic Retrofit Guide F-PLANS07 4/07 ©2007 SIMPSON STRONG-TIE COMPANY INC.


Retrofit Solutions You Can Do Yourself

UFP Installation, Anchoring Titen HD®, Anchoring the AC Post Cap Installation,
the Mudsill to the Foundation Mudsill to the Foundation Connecting Post to Floor Beam
(see page 11) (see page 10) (see page 16)

To learn more about earthquakes and home retrofit solutions,

visit www.strongtie.com and click on “For Your Home.”

F-PLANS07 4/07 © 2007 SIMPSON STRONG-TIE COMPANY INC. Seismic Retrofit Guide | 19
 Every day we work hard to earn your business, blending the
talents of our people with the quality of our products and services
to exceed your expectations. This is our pledge to you.

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Home Office Northeast USA Eastern Canada Simpson Anchor

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