littaa.

waa
Pedal
Many electronics enthusiasts, although not musicians
themselves, find that the cheapest way to pursue their Hobby
is to build musical devices of one sort or another for other
people to use-at a price!

WHAT, the uninitiated will ask, is a waa-waa ? The

simple answer is that it's something which, when trod
on, goes "Waa-waa".
To those slightly more au fait with the state of the art
in the rock world, the waa-waa is a foot -controlled swept
notch filter for use with instruments with a high har-
monic content output.
Basically, it's an effects unit - it goes between an
electric guitar and it's amplifier. By operating the foot
pedal, the guitarist can (especially if 'picking') produce
the characteristic effect which gives the device its name.
As well as the inevitable input and output sockets and
on/off switch, this pedal also has a push-button 'bypass'
switch (set in the 'heel' of the pedal) which, when
operated, removes the effect altogether until it is pressed
again. Lastly, the pedal is really meant to be screwed down
onto something. We suggest a small piece of 1/2in
chipboard - this gives it stability and stops it scratching
CONSTRUCTION hardwood stages!
The pedal we have specified requires some holes drilled
for the switches and sockets, but anyone with access to a BOARD
hand drill should be able to manage this. Putting the electronics together is probably the easiest
Another small problem is that the pedal mechanism part of all - make sure you get capacitors 1 and 4 the
comes complete with a potentiometer already fitted - right way round, though - look at the diagrams closely
but it's not the right type for this project. Changing it for before assembling. Electrolytic capacitors should have
the right one is a simple enough matter - taking a look an indented ring around the +ve end.
at the mechanism should be enough to allow you to see The integrated circuit goes in with the dent in one end
how it's done. The only problem is in making sure the of it aligned as shown. We suggest that you use an
potentiometer is in the right position when the pedal is integrated circuit socket (IC socket) - this is soldered
put back together. In other words, to make sure that the into the board and the IC plugs into it - saves
spindle is turned anti -clockwise when the pedal is fitted endangering the IC by heating it. If you do use one,
back onto the rest of the mechanism in the 'foot off' make sure all the IC pins go into the holes and that none
position. are bent under the body of the IC.
Again, a little thought and a quick fiddle will sort this You may notice that the IC pin numbers shown on the
out (Yes, it will work with an electric fiddle as well as an circuit diagram start on the actual IC body with pin 1

electric guitar!). where the dot on the body is and go anti -clockwise.

Hobby Electronics, November 1978 37

 +9V

C2

I/P 0 C1 R1 150n
0- * R2
5k6
SW2a 4 u7
1k C3
2 C4 0 0/P T
IC PP3
150n 4 41u747-41"-c-vSW2b

RV1
470R SW a
LIN

SW1b 9

RV2 PP 3
100 R
LIN

-9V
NOTE
IC1 is 741
11P -01P SOCKETS are 1/4 JACK

The circuit diagram. To find out how it works, read the 'How it
Works' section!

An internal view. The eagle-eyed amongst you may notice that

there are only two wires connecting the bypass switch to the
circuit. This is because in the prototype we opted for a simpler
(although less electronically aesthetic) means of bypassing the
circuit - connecting the output directly to the input while
leaving the circuit connected to both!

The overlay - where to put the bits on the board.

RV1

38 Hobby Electronics, November 1978

 Waa-uvaa Pedal
How it Works
The input to the device is through C1 - this
WIRING
If in doubt about where to connect the wires to or from,
follow the circuit diagram - remember it's just the same
removes any DC bias from the signal. C4 acts in as the real thing.
a similar way on the output signal. This process When fitting RV2, notice that the letter W on the
is called 'de -coupling'. overlay (which tells you what bits go where on the board)
IC1 is an operational amplifier - a rather refers to the 'wiper' contact of RV2. This is the contact
single-minded device whose only aim is to fiddle which slides along the resistive 'track'.
the voltage at pin 6 (the output) to try to keep RV1 should be wired with one connection to both the
the voltage at pin 2 (the inverting input) the middle (wiper) contact and one of the end contacts, and
same as at pin 3 (the non -inverting input). In one connection to the other contact.
this case, the voltage at pin 3 happends to be Two -position switches (also called 'double -throw'
zero. Anyway, we're allowing the deive to do switches) have a similar arrangement to potentiometers
this to an extent, but we're crippling it by means - the middle contact is the one that 'moves'
of C2, C3, R2, RV1 and RV2 in such a way that:
a) the output follows the input through RI to an
extent - it has to do this to try and keep the SETTING UP
voltage at pin 2 constant. The preset control, RV2, should be adjusted before you
b) it can control the voltage at pin 2 at all but screw the pedal down - just attach a guitar and an
one frequency (this frequency is 'blocked' by amplifier and tweak it till it sounds right! This is probably
C2, C3 and R2) and thus that frequency 'app- the best way to do it - especially if ifs you who will be
ears' at pin 6 as it tries frantically to control the using it. If it's built for someone else, then get them to
voltage at pin 2. tweak it!
c) that frequency is dependent on the resistance All in all, this is a simple project on the electronic
of RV1 and RV2. side, with a small amount of metalwork to be done to
So, all in all, the output of the circuit will be produce a really professional finish.
that fraction of the input which falls at and near HE

the frequency RV1 is set to. By changing the

setting of RV1, you 'sweep' this frequency up
and down the audio band, producing the req-
uired `waa-waa' sound.
Parts List
RESISTORS
R1 1k0
R2 5k6
CAPACITORS
C1,4 4u7 20V electrolytic
C2,3 150n polyester
SEMICONDUCTORS
IC1 741 operational
amplifier
POTENTIOMETERS
RV1 470R linear
RV2 100R preset linear
MISCELLANEOUS
PCB as pattern; 2 off PP3 9V batteries; 1 miniature
0 0 toggle double -pole, double -throw switch; 1 minia-
ture push button locking double -pole, double -
throw switch, 2 off 1/4in jack sockets, battery clips
to fit.
The foot pedal mechanism we used came from
MAPLIN Electronics, PO Box 3, Rayleigh, Essex,
SS6 8LR (order as 'swell pedal").
The push-button two -position switch was from
RS Electronic Supplies, PO Box 427, 13-17
Epworth Street, London EC2P 2HA (01-253

0
No(41.1
1144111rgirin
0
3040). Order as "339-235".
We suggest you 'phone or write to find out the
prices of the above.
All the rest of the components should be avail-
able either through advertisers in this magazine or
The printed circuit foil pattern (looking at the copper s'de of the from electronic component shops.
board). This can be used to make your own PC board or
ready-made ones can be bought (see adverts in this and later Approximate cost: £15
issues).

Hobby Electronics, November 1978 39