Laboratory Activity

EManual

BET-ET INDUSTRIAL
PLANNING AND MATERIAL
HANDLING
 ELECTRICAL PLANNING

Introduction

Each category listed below contains background information and activities that will help you learn a major project skill
associated with electricity. The project skills learned in this manual include:

 Understanding the need for and purpose of Electrical Codes.

 Being able to use the correct technical terms associated with residential/Building electrical wiring Code.
 Understanding how electricity is distributed and controlled throughout your residential/Building.
 Recognizing the different kinds of circuits that may be found in your home.
 Reading and creating wiring diagrams and understanding the associated symbols.
 Determining the size of a circuit (ampacity) needed for the appliance(s) you wish to use.
 Determining if a circuit is energized by using testing equipment.
 Understanding grounding and the reason it is important.
 Understanding why/when/where circuits should be GFCI protected.
 Knowing about arc-fault interrupters and when they should be used.
 Recognizing the different types of wires (conductors) and cables and how they are coded.
 Understanding the process of mechanically/electrically connecting two or more wires together.
 Understanding how to determine t he different sizes and types of receptacles and switches (including three-way).
 Being able to safely replace a receptacle and/or switch.

In Wiring around residential/Building you need to:

1. Read this manual.
2. Complete the activities presented in this manual.
3. Complete the task in this Module

Upon completion of Electrical Plan will exhibit one of the following at your local or county fair: Presentation,

poster, equipment wiring board, or written report in one of the following areas:
 electrical work that you did around your home or other location and how you accomplished it (preferably with
models, pictures or a small part of your total installation). Be sure to include a wiring diagram of your project with
your exhibit.
 analyze the current wiring situation in your home or out buildings and develop a new system that you feel would
be better. Be sure to show diagrams of the old and new systems. Also, explain why the new proposed system is
better.
 any topic covered in this manual.
Note: After Completing the Task. Must be presented at the class.
they show hands-on wiring techniques (i.e., complete wiring of a light controlled by a three-way switch
system). Equipment wiring boards should be no larger than 3' by 3'. The boards should be designed so that they
can be displayed horizontally.

ACKNOWL EDGM ENTS

Using Electric ity was written by Karen Tormoehlen, Roger T ormoehlen, Bill Vollmer, Purdue University Cooperative Extension Specialist, 4-H and
the Indiana State 4-H Joint Electric Committee composed of Fred Bauman, Rex Princell, Wayne Newhart, Roy Mohr, Dave Millis, Betty Baute,
Valerie Sharp, Brad Henderson, Dan Endris, Jim Rupp, Brandon Stevens, Rob Wilson, Rachel Cruz, Darby O’Conner, Fred Jakubowicz.

2
What's To Come? Introduction
What’s the first thing you do when you walk into a darkened
Introduction 3 room? Reach for the light switch? You probably do this
The National Electric Code 3 without giving it a second thought unless a bulb has burned
How Electricity Travels Throughout the Home, 4 out, a fuse is blown or a circuit breaker has tripped and you
Residential or Buildings. Electrical Symbols and 4 are left in the dark.
Building Plans 4
Activity #1 Identify Electrical Plan Symbols 7
Service Entrance Panel – Control starts here! 7
Circuit Breakers and Fuses 8
Activity #2 Draw residential/Building 8
Electrical Plan Activity #3 Diagram Your Service 8
Entrance Panel What are Branch Circuits? 9
Types of Branch Circuits 9
Activity #4 Is Your Permanent Wiring Adequate? 10
Activity #5 Typical Branch Circuits and Their Loads 11
Activity #6 Is the Circuit Overloaded? 12
Is the Circuit Live? Have you ever given thought to what makes it possible to
12 microwave popcorn, listen to your stereo or have light to
Activity #7 Is the Circuit Live (and wired properly)? 13 read with? Permanent indoor wiring is responsible for
Grounding 14 bringing electricity throughout in residential/Buildings. This
Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCI) manual will explore types of permanent indoor wiring that
14
Activity #8 Identifying GFCIs in residential/ 15 make our lives comfortable through the ability to use lights
Buildings 15
and appliances in our homes. You will also be given
Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters (AFCI) instructions on how to make safe and simple repairs to your
16 existing electrical system.
Wiring –Types, Sizes, Insulation, Color Coding Connecting
16
Wires with Solderless Connectors
17
Activity #9 Using Wire Nuts/Making Good
Connections Types of Electrical Cable
18 The National Electric Code
19
Activity #10 Symbols/Markings on Wires/Cables
19
Electrical Boxes The National Electrical Code® (NEC) was developed by
20
Receptacles/Plug-in Outlets the National Fire Prevention Association (NFPA) as a set of
21
Activity #11 Identifying Different Receptacles rules to encourage safe practices while working with
23 electricity. It states “The purpose of this Code is the practical
Available Switches
24 safeguarding of persons and property from hazards arising
Important Safety Guidelines from the use of electricity.” The NEC is updated every few
24
Putting it Together 25 years. In addition to the NEC, cities, counties, and states may
Activity #12 Redesigning The Wiring Diagram if 27 adopt regulations that need to be followed by consumers,
necessary Appendices: electricians and builders. A permit may be required to be
#1. Replacing an Outlet/Receptacle obtained from a local inspector whenever you make
major changes to, or install something new in, your home,
28 Residential or Buildings.-wiring system.
Replacing an End of the Run Receptacle 28
Replacing a Middle of the Run Receptacle 29 Before attempting any electrical work, contact a local inspector
#2. Replacing Switches 30 to learn more about the electrical code(s) in your area and the
Replacing Single Pole Switches with Terminal Screws 30 rules that you need to follow when making changes to your
Replacing Three-Way Switches 31 electrical system. Your local electrical utility may also have
Installing a Dimmer 33 certain wiring and inspection requirements. Remember to
#3. Electrical Terminology – Glossary 34 always turn off the power to any circuit that you may be
working on.

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This manual does not attempt cover each and every aspect
of the residential wiring rules as set forth in the National
Electric Code (NEC). The NEC is, if fact, a very detailed
and complete set of rules governing the safety and use of
electricity in business, industry and the home. This
manual serves as more of overview of how to make some
basic repairs or improvements to an existing residential/
Buildings or electrical system which would be consistent
with the rules set forth in the NEC. The language of the
NEC specifies what the MINIMUM safety standards to be
used are.
How Electricity Travels Throughout the
Home, Residential or Buildings.
Electricity is supplied through your electric utility’s
overhead or buried power lines.* Before entering your
home, electricity passes through a watt-hour meter
which measures the amount of electricity used. It then
continues into your house through the Service Entrance
Panel (also called a “load center”), where circuit
protection devices such as circuit-breakers or fuses are
located
(Figure 1). Electricity is then distributed throughout your
home using branch circuits to provide power to appliances FIGURE 1 – Residential Electrical System
and lights through receptacles, switches, and fixtures.

Electricity arrives at your home on two An “outlet” is any point in an electrical system where current is
energized (“hot”) conductors and one non-energized taken out of the system in order to supply power to the attached
(“neutral”) conductor. Between the two “hot” electrical equipment. An outlet can be one of two basic types: A
conductors a typical voltage of 440 Volts AC “Receptacle” outlet or a “Lighting” outlet. A receptacle outlet is
will be present and between either of the “hot” one in which one or more receptacles are installed for the purpose
conductors and the “neutral” or “grounded” of attaching “plug and cord-connected” type devices, and a
conductor approximately 220 Volts will be present lighting outlet is one intended for a direct-wired connection to a
(Figure 1). Under the right circumstances, 120 volts lamp holder, luminaire (lighting fixture) or ceiling fan. Special-
can injure or kill you; 220/440 volts could present an purpose outlets also exist. These may be dedicated to a specific
even greater risk for injury or electrocution. type of equipment such as a furnace, wall oven, garbage disposal
Therefore, it is very important that power or another similar piece of equipment.
be removed from a circuit before
any repairs or changes are made to it. ACTIVITY #1
There are a number of testing devices that can check Identify Electrical Plan Symbols
for the presence of voltage in the circuit and one of 1. Things needed
these should be used to make sure that the power is off. • pencil
These testing devices will be discussed later in this
• this manual
manual. 2. What you will do:
a. Study the symbols in the table named “Electrical
Electrical Symbols and Symbols and Outlets.” (Figure 2)
b. Examine the “Sample Home Electrical Plan” and
Building Plans notice how the symbols are used (Figure 3).
c. Answer the questions that are found below the
Electrical symbols are used on home building plans in electrical plan (Figure 3).
order to show the location, control point(s), and type of
d. Check your answers on the last page of the Glossary
electrical device(s) required at those locations. These
symbols, which are drawn on top of the floor plan, show (Appendix 3) in this manual.
lighting outlets, receptacle outlets, special purpose outlets,
fan outlets and switches. Dashed lines are drawn between 3. To refresh yourself on how electricity gets from the power
the symbols to denote which switch(es) control generating facility to the residential/Buildings refer to the
specific light(s) or receptacle(s). There are quite a few Electric manual.
symbols used to represent the devices used in home
wiring but some of them are very similar, so care
should be used when working with them. 4
FIGURE 2 – Symbols and Outlets

5
6
1. Why do two switches connect to the paddle fan? 5. Which five areas use GFCI-protected receptacles?
ACTIVITY 1 (FIGURE 3) – Sample Home Electrical Plan

Slow/Fast Speeds One for Light/One for Fan

2. How many lights are connected to 3-way switches? 6. Which room makes use of Split-Circuit receptacles?
1 4 5

3. Where are multiple lights controlled by one 7. Where is the Service Entrance Panel located?

switch?Garage Exterior Bath

Bedroom 2
8. What does WP stand for on an outdoor receptacle?

NOTE: Answers on last page of Glossary.

4. What two appliances are shown using 440 Volts?
 Service Entrance Panel (S.E.P.) When choosing circuit protection devices for a service
entrance panel, it is important to match the rating of the
The electrical panel, breaker box, fuse box, load center, or circuit breaker or fuse to the circuit that it will be
service entrance panel (it is known by many names) (Figure protecting. In other words, you would want to use a 15-amp
4) has the job of distributing power throughout your home. It rated breaker on a 15-amp lighting branch circuit; you
provides the primary means for a homeowner to disconnect would not want to use a 20-amp rated breaker. Neither
the power that comes from the feed provided by your electric would you want to use a 15-amp rated circuit breaker on a
utility company. It also provides circuit protection for the 20-amp small-appliance branch circuit. The same principle
various branch circuits that make up a residential electrical would apply if fuses were being used for circuit overload
wiring system. protection. Also, when selecting breakers, it is important to
match the service entrance panel you have with compatible-
Power comes from the feeder lines into the “Main style breakers.
Breaker” (usually the topmost breaker in the panel) which is
usually rated at 100 or 200 amps. From there, individual To be able to properly diagnose an inoperative branch
breakers then distribute power and provide overload circuit, it is important that you learn how to recognize when
protection for each of the individual circuits (branch circuits) a circuit breaker has tripped or when a fuse has blown. The
that run throughout your home. first clue that this has happened would be that none of the
lights or devices plugged into receptacles that are a part of
the circuit would be functioning.

When a fuse has “blown”, it is usually quite apparent by

viewing the “fusible” metal link inside the fuse housing
through the transparent window in the front. If the metal link
has a gap in it, the fuse has blown (Figure 5 - the link has
melted due to the excessive current flow). Another possible
indicator is blackening of the transparent window as a result
of the melting and vaporizing of the metal link. In this
case, it could be difficult to actually inspect the metal link.
If it is not visually possible to tell if a fuse is blown, you
can always remove it from the panel and test it using a
It’s a good idea to identify testing device such as an Ohm-meter or continuity tester.
each circuit on the inside
of the SEP’s front cover.

FIGURE 4 – Service Entrance Panel

Gap
These branch breakers have ratings ranging from 15 to 100
amps. Lighting circuits are typically 15 amps, receptacle
circuits 20 amps, and a sub-panel circuit supplying power to a Fuse with Link Intact Fuse with Link Blown
garage or tool shed would usually be 60 or 100 amps.
Dedicated high-power branch circuits such as those for an air
conditioner, furnace, electric range, or electric water heater
may use breakers running from 30-60 amps. The main breaker WLV – to take photo
is in series with the branch circuit breakers. Therefore,
turning off power to the main breaker prevents power from
being supplied to all of the branch-circuit breakers.

Older residential/Buildings, whose electrical wiring has not

been upgraded, may still be using fuses for circuit protection, Tripped Circuit Breaker
however, these are becoming less common. It is still useful to
know about fuses because even items like your automobile FIGURE 5 – Blown Fuses/Tripped Breakers
make use of them to protect its electrical system.
When a “toggle-type” breaker has tripped, the “ON/OFF”
toggle lever either reverts back to its “OFF” position or it
Circuit Breakers and Fuses sits somewhere (floats) between the “ON” and “OFF”
positions. To reset the breaker, move it fully to the OFF
Circuit breakers and fuses are designed to stop the flow of
position and then back to the ON position.
current in a circuit if it becomes overloaded. The amount of
time required for a breaker to “trip” (open the circuit) or fuse
to blow depends on the amount of overload current. A circuit Older “Push Button” type circuit breakers usually have a
breaker trips immediately when a short circuit occurs, but small window on the front with the words “ON” and “OFF.”
delays an appropriate amount of time before tripping in the For a normally-functioning circuit, the breaker will display
event of an overload. “ON” in the window.
7
If an overload occurs and the breaker is tripped, it will 3. Check
display “OFF.” Pushing the button will reset the breaker and, a. Ask Faculty in the BET Department, or your
if the electrical fault that caused it to trip is no longer Instructor in the class review your wiring
present, “ON should then appear in the window. diagram with you. Did they suggest any
Blown fuses will need to be replaced and tripped circuit corrections or additions? If yes, what were the
breakers reset, but don’t do this before investigating the suggested changes?
possible causes for the overload or short-circuit. There simply ____________________________________
may have been too many items plugged into the branch- ____________________________________
circuit receptacles and turned on at the same time, causing an ____________________________________
overload or, there may be a short in the plug or cord of a ____________________________________
cord-connected device.
____________________________________
Your service entrance panel may also be ____________________________________
equipped with one or more Ground-Fault
Circuit Interrupters (GFCIs). GFCIs function
as a normal breaker but have the added ACTIVITY #3
capability of opening the circuit if even a Diagram Your Service Entrance Panel
small amount of current leaves the circuit and
begins to flow on another path, such as
through your body. This helps to protect you This activity will help you become better acquainted with
from injury or electrocution your Service Entrance Panel.
due to electrical shock.
1. Things needed:
You can recognize a GFCI by the “test” • Pencil, ruler, paper, this manual.
button on the front which, when pressed, 2. What you will do:
“trips” the breaker and causes the circuit a. Create a diagram of your service entrance panel
to open. When the breaker is tripped, by making a pictorial drawing of the panel that
either by using the test button or due to an shows the location and ratings (amperes) of the
actual ground fault, a colored “flag” installed circuit breakers and/or fuses.
appears behind a clear window letting you
the breaker has tripped.* Resetting the b. If there is a number embossed on the panel
breaker is done by switching the toggle handle FIGURE 6 next to the breaker or any existing labeling
to the “off” position and then back to the “on” GFCI Breaker that tells which branch circuit it controls,
position. GFCI receptacles and their use will with “Tripped” record this information on your diagram
be discussed later in this manual. Indicator as well.
c. Record the unused spaces that can be used for
*Note: Not all GFCIs have visual "tripped" indicat or window s. future system expansion. Unused
spaces will either be stamped rectangles still
ACTIVITY #2 attached to the panel, or there will be
Draw Your Home’s Electrical Plan filler plugs that have been inserted into the
panel where a breaker would normally reside.
1. Things needed: d. If your S.E.P. uses breakers, note on your
 pencil, ruler, paper, this manual drawing how many breakers are used on 220-
2. What you will do: Volt circuits and how many are on
a. Diagram the floor plan for the main floor . (Refer to 220-Volt circuits? (F.Y.I. 220-Volt breakers
Activity 1.) are usually thicker than 120-Volt ones) Did
b. With the help of an adult, locate the service entrance you find any GFCI breakers? Note this
panel (Figure 4). If it is located on the main floor, information on your pictorial drawing as well.
draw its location on your floor plan and label it
"S.E.P." If it is not on the main floor, add some text
on your floor plan that informs the reader of its
What Are Branch Circuits?
Branch circuits are made up of the wires that
location.
c. Next, locate every switch, receptacle (accessible ones deliver electricity throughout in the building. The NEC
only), lighting fixture, and fan fixture on the main defines a branch circuit as: the circuit conductors
floor in the College. between the final over current device protecting the
d. Refer to the Table of “Electrical Symbols and circuit and the outlet(s). A branch circuit enables
Outlets” (Figure 3) and place those symbols that appliances and lights to be operated as needed. A
correspond to the items mentioned in step c. on your branch circuit should be able to handle the combined
floor plan in the approximate location they are found power demand for all of the attached devices without
in the rooms. Draw dashed lines from switches to the overloading the wires. Therefore, the size of the wires
lighting fixtures, split-circuit receptacles (those used as well as the location and the number of
controlled by a switch) or the fans they control. receptacles and switches is crucial for safety as well as
8 convenience.
Types of Branch Circuits ACTIVITY #4
Is Your Permanent Wiring Adequate
The kind of circuit installed will depend on how it will
be used by the consumer and the amount of electricity that
for Your Needs?
will be required to be provided by the circuit. In general,
there are three types of branch circuits: 1. Things needed
• pencil
1. General purpose branch circuit. Circuits that • this manual
provide electricity to the lighting
and receptacle outlets throughout your home 2. What you will do:
Residential or Buildings. In general, these circuits a. With the help of an adult, use the following
are 20 amp, 220 volts and use 12 AWG* size wires checklist to identify symptoms of wiring
or they are 15 amp, 220 volts and use 12-14 AWG problems in your home Residential or
wires. Buildings.. C heck all that apply.
NOTE: Any of the following is a potentially dangerous
2. Small appliance branch circuit. Circuits that situation and should be corrected by a qualified
provide electricity to receptacles in professional as soon as possible.
the kitchen, dining, and laundry or similar areas
where portable appliances are often used. In _____ burning odors
general, these circuits are 20 amps, 220 volts,
and use 12 AWG or larger wire. (The NEC _____ flickering lights, dimming lights, or lights getting
requires that a minimum of two small-appliance brighter when appliances are turned on
branch circuits be provided for the receptacle _____ appliances operating slowly or not as well as they should
outlets that serve countertop areas in kitchens.)
_____ fuses blowing or circuit breakers tripping frequently
3. Individual (Dedicated) branch circuit. Circuits that
provide electricity to a single receptacle or are hard- _____ too few outlets and switches installed where you need
wired directly to a heavy duty appliance such them (i.e. multiple outlet strips in use)
as a stove, dryer, water heater, central _____ multiple octopus connections used for several appliances
air conditioner, heat pump or motor above at once
1/3 horsepower. In general, these circuits are 15 to _____ extension cords strung around room in order to connect
100 amps depending on the electrical load of lamps or appliances
the equipment. The voltage used for most _____ overheating of motors
dedicated heavy-duty appliance circuits is typically
440 volts. _____ getting shocked
It is critical that the electrical demand placed on a branch
circuit not be in excess of what that circuit has been b. If you have checked any of the symptoms of wiring
designed to handle. Not only can repeatedly drawing problems above, identify possible solutions to
excess current damage the wiring and the circuit devices this situation in your home, Residential or
through overheating, it can also damage appliances if the Buildings.(i.e., don't use microwave and toaster
supplied voltage becomes lower due to the higher current at same time).
draw.

3. Check
a. As k your classmates, or your professor to review
your checklist and adaptations with you. Did
they suggest any changes?

If yes, what were the suggested changes?

FIGURE 7 – Inadequate Wiring

* See page 15 for an explanation of conductor sizes: "AWG”
stands for American Wire Gage. The lower the number, the
greater the current the wire can handle.

9
ACTIVITY #5
Typical Branch Circuits and Their Loads

This activity will help you become better acquainted with the branch circuits that serve your home, Residential or
Buildings. and the types of appliances that might get connected to those branch circuits.

1. Things needed:
• Pencil
• This manual

2. What you will do:

a. Complete the Example Residential Branch Circuits and Loads diagram by choosing the proper
item from the list of items that appear in the brown curve-shaped area below.
b. Write the item you chose in the correct yellow box.
c. You can check six of the seven items (those that have their wattages listed) for correct placement
by making sure the total of wattage for the three items on a given circuit is equal to the total
wattage shown in the rightmost column.
d. Write the three remaining items in the last three yellow boxes.

FIGURE 8 – Example Branch Circuits and Loads

10
ACTIVITY#6
Is the Circuit Overloaded? Maximum Continuous Duty Load Formula
(This formula does not apply to motor circuits)
1. Things needed Amps x Volts = Watts
• pencil Watts x 0.8 = Maximum continuous duty load capacity
• paper of the circuit.
• diagrams from activities #1 and #3 in this manual
The NEC defines "Continuous Load" as" a load where the maximum
current is expected to continue for 3 hours or more."
2. What you will do:
a. Choose a circuit in your home, Residential or
Buildings. (preferably one that would be Example: 20 amp (circuit rating) x 220 volts = 4400 watts
contained within the electrical plan you drew 2400 watts x 0.8 = 3520 watts
earlier in Activity #1). Ask a parent to help you Maximum continuous duty load = 3520 Watts
determine which receptacles and lights are a
part of that circuit. In the space provided Breaker/ Area Voltage Items Used Watts
below, prepare a chart of the electrical loads that Fuse Size Served
are typically placed on that particular circuit. See (Amps)
the “Example Electrical Loads” chart (Figure 9) Lab
20A 220 Television 350
for assistance in preparing your chart. Room

Note: If watts are not listed on the appliance, multiply the voltage and amps
listed on the appliance to determine the number of watts used. EXAMPLE 3 Lamps
Space
260

(i.e., 220 volts x 0.4 amps = 88watts).

(T his formula does not apply to motor circuits). CHART
In this example, the maximum
Heater
1400

Breaker/ Area(s) Voltage Items Used Watts continuous load is being exceeded by Boom Box 10
450 watts. Therefore, some of the
Fuse Size Served* load should be distributed to Computer
(Amps) another nearby circuit. 350
& Monitor
Another circuit could be run to the
living room if there is space for an Total 2370
additional breaker to be installed in
Maximum
the Service Entrance Panel.
Load (80% )
1896

FIGURE 9 – Example Load Calculation

*Don’t forget, it is possible that
adjacent rooms could share the
same circuit for some of each 3 . Check
room’s receptacles and/or lights! a. Did the load used on the circuit exceed the
maximum load capacity for the circuit? If yes, how
Total might you redistribute the load to other circuits?

Maximum
Load

b. List the appliances and lights generally used on the

circuit. Locate the number of watts used by each
lighting device or appliance.
c. Add up the total number of watts for the circuit. b. Ask your class,ate or Your Professor to review your
d. Use the following Maximum Load formula to chart with you. Did they suggest any changes? If yes,
determine the maximum “Continuous” load that what were the suggested changes?
the circuit can handle:

NOTE: If a circuit is subject to exceeding the Maximum

Continuous Duty Load, consider shifting one or two of
the receptacles on that circuit to another nearby circuit
that has additional load carrying capacity available.
This will serve to redistribute the load.

11
Is the Circuit Live?
One of the best devices you can use to determine if a circuit
is energized (also called "hot" or "live") is what is known
as an "outlet tester" or "circuit-polarity checker."

By inserting an outlet tester into a 220V receptacle, not only

can you determine if power is available at the receptacle, but
you can also determine if the wiring which runs between the
receptacle and the Service Entrance Panel is connected
correctly. Any incorrectly wired receptacles can cause injury
from electrical shock and, under the right circumstances,
could cause an electrical fire.

As you may recall from the electric project, power is

delivered to receptacles on the "Hot" and "Neutral" FIGURE 10 – Example Legend for Outlet Tester
conductors. A third conductor, the “Equipment Grounding
Conductor” or "Safety Ground", is also included as a part of
the circuit but does not carry any current unless there is an ACTIVITY#7
electrical fault of some kind.
Is the Circuit Live (and wired properly)?
When the circuit conductors are properly connected to a
receptacle, the hot wire will be connected to the electrical 1. Things needed
contact behind the shorter rectangular slot in the receptacle • pencil
body. The neutral wire will be connected to the electrical • paper
contact behind the longer rectangular slot, and the • polarity checker/outlet tester
grounding wire to the electrical contact behind the half-
round opening. 2. What you will do:
a. Using a polarity checker, check all of the 220-volt
MEMORY AID: "Hot" is the shorter word, hence
receptacles (easily accessible ones only!) in your
goes to the shorter slot. "Neutral" is the longer word,
home, Residential or Buildings. for power and
hence goes to the longer slot. "Ground" sounds like
proper wiring. Make sure to use the legend specific
"round", and hence, goes to the half-round opening. to your checker. Do not use the one shown in the
figure above!
Figure 9 shows a typical outlet tester. Every tester of this b. In the table that follows, record any receptacles that
style will have a series of lights that illuminate in a are not working or are wired incorrectly. Note
specific pattern based how the hot, neutral, and ground the room's name, the location of the receptacle
conductors are connected to the terminals of the receptacle. within the room and what was indicated by the
On the unit depicted here, the lights are on the end while polarity checker. The first row of the table gives an
the top and bottom are marked with a legend indicating example of what to do. If you find more than five
the meaning of the light combinations. problem receptacles, you can continue the table on a
separate piece of paper.

c. You may have a few receptacles in your home,

Residential or Buildings. controlled by switches
(split-circuit receptacles). These are mostly likely
to be found in bedrooms or living rooms but could
be in any room. These will test as "not working" if
FIGURE 9 – Outlet Tester the switch that controls them is turned off.
To identify if a receptacle is connected to a split
There is only one correct combination of lights for a circuit, test both halves of the receptacle with all
the wall switches in the room turned off. One-half
correctly wired receptacle. Figure 10 shows the legend that
of the receptacle should have power while the
appears on the top of the tester. Be aware that there are two
other half should not. If turning the wall switch(es)
ways receptacles may have been installed into your walls... back on provides power to the unpowered half, it
with the grounding connector facing up or with it facing is on a split-circuit. Remember, more than one
down. The legends printed on the top and bottom of the receptacle on a split-circuit may be controlled by
device will be different, but when plugged in and viewed the same switch.
from above the receptacle being tested, it will read correctly.

12
 Circuit Condition
Room Name Outlet Location Action Taken or Proposed
(tester results)

Room Left side of N.W. wall - Hot/Neutral Turn off breaker, remove receptacle from wall, inspect
(example) floor lamp is using Reversed and swap wires if needed, power on breaker and re-test.

d. Re-examine your main-floor electrical plan that

you created in activity #2. If you were not able to
Grounding
determine earlier which receptacles, if any, were
wired into split-circuits, go ahead and mark them "Grounding" (verb) refers to connecting, to the earth, the metal
as such on your diagram now. If you need an parts of the electrical equipment and devices (distribution panel,
example, look at Bedroom 1 on the electrical electric box, receptacle, switch, etc.) that make up the electrical
plan used in Activity #1. Notice, it shows five system. The bare copper or green-insulated wires that connect the
split-circuit receptacles controlled by one switch. electrical system to the earth are called grounding (adj.) wires.
These wires do not normally carry circuit current. However, they
4. Check do carry current when they are directing abnormal electrical flow,
a. Ask your Classmate or your Professor to review such as that caused by a short circuit or lightning strike, into the
your findings with you. Discuss with them the earth to help prevent personal injury or property damage.
possible process you would use to troubleshoot
why the receptacles are not working as they should The "grounding wire" (sometimes called bonding wire) should be
be. Will you, or someone in your family be able to connected to all metallic boxes of receptacles and light switches
make repairs, or will an electrician be needed? as well as to the green screw of receptacles. Grounding wires
must connect to metallic boxes by using a bonding clip or green-
colored machine screw.
Other devices that could be used to test to determine if power is
being supplied to a receptacle would be: 1) A Digital
The white-insulated electric wires that carry normal circuit
Multimeter that measures and displays the actual AC voltage
current are called "grounded wires" (also known as the neutral
present at the receptacle, 2) a Non-Contact Voltage Tester, or 3)
wires). Grounded wires are connected to the earth by the
a Neon Light Type Voltage Tester. These will not be discussed
grounding wires. This normally occurs at only one point in a
any further in this manual but you may wish to investigate
residential electrical system - inside the service entrance panel.
these devices on your own to learn about their capabilities. For
your reference, examples of these items are shown in Figure
For any electrical system to function safely and properly, a high-
11.
quality earth ground is needed (Figure 12). Metal rods embedded
in a building’s concrete foundation would be the first choice for
an effective electrical ground. This would be followed by well
casings or buried metallic water pipes. If such items are not
available, a ground rod needs to be used. Often, a ground rod is
used to supplement other methods of grounding. A typical ground
rod is a copper-plated steel rod about 5/8" in diameter and 8-10
feet in length. It is driven almost fully into the ground near the
service entrance panel. A grounding wire is run from the
FIGURE 11 – Electrical Testing Equipment S.E.P. ground terminal and connected securely to the ground rod.

13
 Groundi ng Wi re
from Tra nsformer
Concrete-Enca s ed
Bui lding Steel El ectrode

Ground Rod Meta l l i c

Wa ter Pi pe

Figure 12 – Electrical System Grounding Methods

NOTE: An improperly grounded receptacle may present a
safety issue to you and your family members. If any of the
receptacles you tested in the last activity indicated any type Figure 13 – Typical GFCI Wall Receptacle
of fault (including “open ground” or “hot/ground reversed”),
let your Professor know as this may present a safety issue to
you and your faculty members in the college. ACTIVITY#8
TIP: A good safety practice when doing electrical wiring is to Identifying GFCIs in the Building
connect the grounded (neutral) and grounding wires first when
assembling the wiring and to disconnect these wires last when 1. Things needed
disassembling the wiring. • pencil
• this manual
Ground Fault Circuit • outlet tester
Interrupters (GFCI) 2. What you will do
a. Locate and identify* the GFCIs in your home,
A Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) (Figure 13) is an
electronic device used to protect persons against faulty Residential or Buildings. and record their
appliances. GFCI circuitry detects the abnormal flow of location in the space provided below. (HINT:
electricity (current leaving the circuit and flowing on an Pay particular attention to the receptacles in
unintended path). It opens the circuit to prevent electricity your bathroom, kitchen, garage, receptacles on
from reaching the user where it could cause serious injury or the outside of your home, Residential or
death. GFCIs are a designed to trip within 15-30 milliseconds Buildings., and the plugs of hand held electrical
(0.015 - 0.030 second), whenever a 4-6 milliamp difference in devices such as hair dryers.)
current flow exists between the hot and neutral wires.

These devices are available as portable units and also are built
into receptacles and circuit breakers. GFCI breakers were
discussed briefly earlier in this manual. GFCIs are required by
Code in certain locations in a home, Residential or Buildings.
(usually wet/damp spaces) such as bathrooms, garages,
kitchens, basements, around swimming pools and for all b. *Use the "TEST" button on any GFCIs receptacles
outdoor receptacles. In addition, some hand-held appliances, you find to see if they are working correctly and
especially hair dryers, are being equipped with GFCI help determine if they are protecting any other
protection built right into the plug. receptacles on the circuit. After pressing the test
button, take the outlet tester and check the GFCI
GFCI circuit breakers have the advantage of providing receptacle for power. If the power is off, plug the
protection for every receptacle on that circuit, but keep in mind tester into other nearby wall receptacles to see if
that when a GFCI breaker trips, power is removed from every they are being protected by this GFCI. If you find
receptacle and lighting fixture on that circuit. others off, "RESET" the GFCI receptacle and
GFCI-protected wall receptacles can function in one of two check those other receptacles again. If power was
ways: 1) They can offer protection for just the one receptacle restored, congratulations... you have found those
into which the GFCI is built, or 2) Other receptacles can be other receptacles that also offer you GFCI
supplied with power through the protected one and these protection.
receptacles would then offer GFCI protection as well.
14
 3. Check Copper wire is most often used to wire homes since it is a good
a. Ask your Professor or your classmates to conductor of electricity. Some older homes have been wired
verify your results with you. Did they know of with aluminum wire. (Note: Aluminum wire is no longer
any GFCIs that you didn’t find? If yes, where approved for general purpose circuits. Aluminum tends to
were they located? oxidize over time and can create poor electrical connections
with those items to which it connects. Also, Aluminum
connections tend to become loose over time which can cause the
possibility of arcing to occur.) Service Entrance Conductors,
however, are usually Aluminum because Copper conductors that
size are very expensive.

When choosing devices, receptacles, switches, or wire

b. Were there any locations in your home, connectors, make sure you choose ones that are made to be used
Residential or Buildings. that you didn't find with the type of wire you are working with.
a GFCI protected receptacle where there
should have been one?  Copper wire should be used for devices with no
markings or those marked CU-AL or CO-ALR.
 Copper-clad aluminum wire (CO-ALR) can be used
with devices marked CO-ALR.
 Aluminum wire can only be used with devices marked
CO-ALR.

Arc Fault Circuit Types of Wire Insulation

Interrupters (AFCI) There are four basic types of wire covering (insulation):
1. Type T - Thermoplastic coated wire. Most commonly
used in homes in dry locations.
An Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter serves a much different
2. Type TW - Thermoplastic coated, moisture resistant
purpose than that of a GFCI. It is designed to sense and
respond to an electrical arcing fault within a wiring system. wire. Used in basements and for outdoor wiring.
Arcing can cause intense heat of up to 10,000°F and the 3. Type THW - Thermoplastic coated, heat resistant, and
molten metal coming from the arc can ignite surrounding moisture resistant wire. May be used in both wet and
flammable materials. A major cause of house fires is from dry locations.
arcing caused by wires with loose connections. 4. Type THHN - Thermoplastic coated, heat resistant.
Used in dry locations.
Unless residential/Buildings was built fairly recently, it may
not make use of AFCI's. Some Electrical Codes may now Wire Covering Color Codes
require them for new construction. Just like GFCIs, AFCIs are
available for use in breaker panels, come built into wall Wires are covered with plastic insulation to provide both
receptacles, and are available as a portable device that can be protection and a method of identification. The insulation
plugged into by a cord and plug-connected appliance or color normally used for hot wires is either black, red, or blue.
power tool. Grounded wire insulation is white or natural gray. Grounding
wire insulation is green, green/yellow, or bare copper (not
insulated). These colors help to prevent errors when doing
Wiring electrical installations or making repairs.
There are a wide variety of wires available for installation in
a home's permanent wiring system. The wire needed for Wire Sizes and Use
wiring projects have been specifically identified by the NEC. Wires come in a variety of sizes designed for specific jobs and
Choosing the correct wire for the job is essential, since using amp loads (Figure 14). It is available in either solid or stranded
the wrong wire could result in overheating which could (for increased flexibility) conductor types. Conductor sizes are
damage the wire's insulation or cause a fire. numbered using the American Wire Gauge (AWG) rating
system. Smaller numbered wires are larger in size and are more
Types of Wire capable of carrying larger loads of electricity (amps). 14 AWG
Wires (conductors) are the means by which electricity travels wire is used for general purpose/lighting branch circuits. 12
from the source of power to the place of use. A residential AWG wire is used for small-appliance branch circuits. 6-10
wiring system is usually made up of copper, aluminum or a AWG wire is used for higher power appliances such as clothes
combination of both. The amount of current wires can carry is dryers, ranges, furnaces and central air-conditioners. Conductors
measured in amperes (amps). The larger the wire diameter, 2 AWG and larger are normally reserved for use by the main
the more amperes it can carry without it overheating. service entrance conductors or to feed a sub-panel.
15
 Twist-on connectors come in a variety
of sizes and are color-coded based on
the number and sizes of wires that
they are able to handle. While there
are several sizes available, there are
just three sizes that are usually
encountered when working with
residential electrical wiring. The sizes
used most often with home wiring are
orange, red and yellow. Figure 16– Wire
Nuts
As you can see in Figure 16, the red connector can handle the
Wire Size
AWG
14 12 10 8 6 4 2 AWG or larger largest size and/or number of wires while orange can handle the
smallest size and/or number of wires. Most often, you will be
Breaker 15 20 30 40 50 70 100 connecting wires of the same AWG together, but this may not
Rating-Amps
always be the case. The technical specifications provided by the
Figure 14 – Wire Sizes and Protection Device Ratings manufacturer will tell you about all the various combinations of
wire sizes and quantities that can be used for any given size nut.

Connecting Wires With Solderless ACTIVITY#9

Connectors Using Wire Nuts/Making Good Connections
Solder should not be used to make home, Residential or 1. Things needed
Buildings. wiring connections! When you need to connect • pencil
two or more wires together, a • this manual
“solderless” connector should be used. In most lighting and • several pieces of 14 AWG Solid Insulated Wire
general-purpose circuits, U.L. (Underwriter's Laboratory) • several pieces of 10 AWG Solid Insulated Wire
approved twist-on "wire-nut"* connectors are used. • red, yellow and orange wire nuts
This plastic insulator contains a tapered threaded metallic • linesman pliers
interior that simply screws tightly over the bare ends of
the wires, connecting them safely and securely (Figure 15).
2. What you will do
*"Wire-Nut" is actually a registered trademark for this type of a. Connect different combinations of wires together
twist-on connector made by Ideal Industries. (both sizes and quantities) using the different sized
wire nuts. Try connecting both same size wires and
To connect the wires together, a short length of insulation different size wires. Try connecting both two
must be removed from the end of each of the wires to be conductors and three conductors together.
connected. Remove just enough insulation so that no bare wire
is exposed when the nut is screwed on all the way. Begin by b. In the table below, record the wiring configuration
twisting the wires together, slide the nut over them, and then you used (see example in first row) and list your
screw it on tightly (Figure 15). This makes a solid observations (i.e., loose connection, wires too big,
connection and prevents any voltage drop from occurring bare wire showing, nut pulls off of wires easily,
or a potential fire being caused due to a loose connection. etc.) for each of the combinations you try:
When the nut is properly installed, no bare wire should be
visible. If there is bare wire showing, remove the nut, and clip Wiring Configuration Your Observations
off the ends of the wire to shorten them and then replace the
nut as before. Example: Yellow Nut
Fits OK/wires are secure
1-10AWG + 2-14AWG
a.

b.

c.

d.
Figure 15 – Connecting Wires
e.
Note: Twisting solid conductor wires together is best done
using “Linesman Pliers.” These have wide, flat jaws that can f.
grip several wires at the same time while twisting.
16
 3. Check Types of Electrical Cable
a. Based on your observations, what size wire nut
should be used when connecting two 14 AWG For most home, Residential or Buildings. wiring systems, a
conductors? (If not in your table, try it now.) cable consisting of two or more insulated conductors,
surrounded by an outer moisture-resistant, flame-retardant,
nonmetallic insulating jacket, are used to supply electricity
to the various branch circuits. Cable comes in a variety of
standard sizes designed for specific uses. The conductor size,
outer covering, and the type and number of wires determine
how and where a cable can be used.
Does your observation agree with the wire-capacity
This type of cable is referred to as Nonmetallic-Sheathed
chart on the back of the package of wire nuts?
Cable (NM). A term still commonly used to refer to this type
of cable is "Romex." This name served as the trademark for
this type of cable originally manufactured by the Rome Wire
and Cable Company. This name is still commonly used today
to refer to NM-type cable.

There are three basic types of cable for residential use:

If no, what size wire nut does the chart suggested 1) Nonmetallic Sheathed Cable. (NM, NM-B, NMC-B)
for use with two 14 AWG sized conductors? 2) Underground (Feeder) Cable (UF-B) - specifically designed
for direct burial in the ground without any additional
protection required.

3) Service Entrance Cable (SE, USE) - generally used as a

service entrance conductor.

Cable is available with either two or three current-carrying

conductors. Figures 17 and 18 show two and three-wire cable.
b. Based on your observations, what size wire nut
In cables, conductors range in size from 14 AWG through 2
should be used when connecting two 10 AWG
AWG for copper conductors. Two-wire cable contains one
conductors? (If not in your table, try it now.)
conductor with black insulation, another with white
insulation, and a bare equipment grounding conductor (also
called the "ground wire"). Three-wire cable contains one
conductor with black insulation, one with white insulation, a
third with red insulation, and also a bare equipment
grounding conductor. Equipment grounding conductors are
permitted to have green insulation, but bare is the most
Does your observation agree with the wire-capacity
common.
chart on the back of the package of wire nuts?
All cable must be marked with the following information:
 Manufacturer
 Type of wire
 Wire size
 Maximum Working Voltage
 Number of Current Carrying Conductors
If no, what size nut is suggested for use with two To make installations easier and to help inspectors make sure
10 AWG sized conductors? that your wiring installation meets code requirements, the
outer sheath of nonmetallic-sheathed cables are color-coded in
order to indicated the wire size (AWG) being used. One part
of the next activity will help you learn which color sheathing
is associated with a specific wire size.

NOTE: If you do not have the package the wires nuts came in,
visit the manufacturer’s website to try to locate the information
needed to answer the above questions.

17
Cables that have two current-carrying conductors (hot and ACTIVITY#10
neutral) plus equipment grounding conductor are used for 220-
volt branch circuits while cables having three current-carrying Symbols and Markings on Wires and Cables
conductors (two hot and neutral) plus grounding conductor are
1. Things needed
used for 440-volt branch circuits. Three-wire cable is not only
used for 440-branch circuits, it is often used in the wiring of • pencil
• this manual
220-volt lighting circuits where three-way switches are being
used to control lights from two locations. Three-way switches
2. What you will do
will be discussed a little later in this manual.
a. With your classmate, visit a local electrical
supply or hardware store to see what types of
The ma rkings on some NM ca bles are embossed i n the jacket wires and cables are available to the consumer.
(not pri nted) and are a bit difficult to read. This one reads: b. Choose several different cables and/or wires and
AWG 12 CU 2 CDR WITH AWG 12 GROUND TYPE NM-B 600 VOLTS
list them in the following table.
c. For each cable and/or wire you listed, identify
in the space provided, what the symbols (coding)
mean for each cable or wire. If necessary, ask for
assistance from store personnel or research the
answers in the library or on the internet.
Figure 17 – NM-B Cable – Two-wire plus ground
3. Check
a. Ask your Classmate or Professor to review your
work. Did the leader suggest any changes? If yes,
what were the suggested changes?

Figure 18 – NM-B Cable – Three-wire plus ground

Note the markings on the outer insulating jacket. These indicate

the type of wire, the number of current carrying conductors, the
AWG, the maximum working voltage, and a few other items.

Wire - AWG Wire Insulation Color Wire or

Type of Wire
or or Sheathing M eaning of the Code Purpose for which the wire/cable
(Copper,
Cable - might be used
Aluminum) Sheathing Color Coding
AWG/#Conductors

18
 grounding conductors to be tied to the box with either a
Electrical Boxes “Grounding Clip” or a “Grounding Screw. “Code requires that
individual wires to extend into the box past the clamping device
Electrical boxes are recessed into walls to hold switches, by at least six inches and the sheath to extend at least ¼ inch past
receptacles, or fixtures (Figure 19). Boxes serve to protect the clamping device.
the connections made to these devices and to isolate them
from any flammable material in case arcing would ever
occur due to a connection becoming loose. Electrical boxes
(made of plastic, metal, or fiberglass) must be covered yet
Receptacles
remain accessible. A cover plate (or the baseplate – for a
lighting fixture) is placed over the front of the box to keep Receptacles or “plug-in” outlets supply electricity to lamps, radios
the current-carrying parts out of contact with any individuals. or other small appliances through the cord and plug to which they
are connected. General purpose and small-appliance receptacles
Wires should never be crowded into an electrical box. In come in both two-slot (non-grounding) and three-slot (grounding)
fact, the Electrical Code specifically limits the number of varieties. Receptacles are rated for specific amperage, voltage, and
wires that a box can contain in order to prevent them from type of wire to be used. They should be marked with the U.L.
becoming damaged. Every electrical box has a parameter marking to show they have passed the requirements of the
associated with it called "box fill." Box fill is the maximum Underwriters Laboratory's safety standards.
number of conductors of a given wire size that is permitted
to be contained in a specific-sized box. The most common receptacle is the standard grounding duplex
receptacle. “Duplex” means that there a two sets of connections
Boxes come in various device capacities. Where more
available from which power can be taken. Figure 20 shows a pair
than one wiring device is to be installed at a single
of polarized grounding-type duplex receptacles on the left along
location, "multiple-gang" boxes are used. A box chosen
with a pair of polarized non-grounding type receptacles on the
to contain a single device such as a duplex receptacle
would be called a "single-gang" box. A box selected to right. Note that the rectangular slots on polarized-type receptacles
hold two wall switches, for example, a "two-gang" box. are of different sizes. The longer slot is for the neutral connection;
Nonmetallic boxes are available in one-gang through the shorter slot is for the hot (energized) connection; and where
four-gang. there is a partially-round hole, it is for the grounding connection.
The receptacles with the “T-shaped” neutral slot are used with 220-
Metal boxes come only as one-gang or two-gang (called a volt, 20-amp branch circuits. This allows for 20-amp plug and
"square box") but they do have the ability to be ganged cord-connected devices to be used. The neutral prong (of the plug)
together to form larger boxes by removing the sides of of a 20-amp device would be turned 90 degrees, not allowing it to
adjacent boxes. Although metal boxes are readily be accidentally plugged in to a 15 amp circuit.
available, today, most residential wiring is done using
nonmetallic boxes.

“Romex”
Connector

Grounding
Screw

Grounding
Clip

Figure 19 – Metal and Plastic Electrical Boxes Figure 20 – Duplex Receptacles

Some 220-volt appliances and devices (a toaster or table lamp,

Electrical boxes must have a clamping device to secure for example) use a two-pronged plug to connect to the receptacle.
the cable to the box. For plastic boxes, the clamp is A two-pronged polarized plug when connected to a polarized
typically molded into the back corners of the box. Metal receptacle will not allow it to be inserted into the receptacle
boxes use a “Romex Connector” which is placed into a backwards. If it were possible to insert the plug of a table lamp
hole (called a “knock-out”) in one of the sides or in the
backwards, then the screw shell that holds the bulb would end up
top or bottom of the box and is secured to the box with a
being connected to the energized conductor and would create
nut. A clamp, tightened down onto the cable with screws,
holds the cable securely to the box. Metal boxes require potential safety issues when replacing a bulb. Remember, not all
that the two-pronged plugs are polarized, especially on older appliances
and devices.
19
Most often, duplex receptacles are side-wired (Figure 21). The National Equipment Manufacturers Association (NEMA) has
They are equipped with several terminal screws that are used produced a set of standards to which today’s receptacles and
to attach the wires. Hot wires are attached to the brass (gold- matching plugs mechanically and electrically conform. You can
colored) screws, neutral wires to the silver screws and the do an internet search for “NEMA Connector Identification” to
grounding wire is attached to a separate green screw. learn more about the various receptacles and plugs available and
their ratings.
A “Connecting tab” causes the two brass screws to be tied
together electrically. The same is true for the two silver
screws. This means you can place your wires under either of ACTIVITY#11
the silver screws and under either of the brass screw to make
your connections. Identifying Different Receptacles Available

Ground 1. Things needed

Terminal • pencil
Grounding Screw
• this manual
• reference materials or a visit to your local hardware
Brass Screws - or electrical supply store
Hot Wire
Silver Screws - 2. What you will do
Neutral Wire a. For each of the receptacle configurations (the
combination of amps/volts/wires) listed below,
draw the receptacle’s slot configuration.

Connecting Tab
2 Pole 2 Pole 3 Pole
(Non-grounding) (with ground) (with ground)
Neutral Terminal
Hot Terminal 220 Volts 220 Volts 440 Volts

Figure 21 – Anatomy of a Duplex Receptacle

15
ampere
For split-circuit receptacle installations (one-half controlled
by a switch), the tab connecting the brass screws is removed.
Using long-nose pliers, as shown in Figure 22, the tab can be
bent back and forth several times until it has broken off. The 20
hot wire connects to one of the brass screws The other brass ampere
screw receives power from the switch using what is called a
“switch loop.”

30
ampere

3. Check
a. What was your source of information
(i.e., electrical supply store, library book)?

Figure 22 – Making a “Split-Circuit” Receptacle

For split-circuits installations used with switches, only the
connecting tab that is attached to the brass screws will be
removed; the connecting tab between the silvers screws is
normally not removed.
20
 b. Did you have any difficulty locating information Take a look at Figures 24 and 25. These two illustrations
on any of the receptacles? If yes, which ones? show the most common ways that single-pole switches are
used to control the power supplied to a light. Figure 24
shows a circuit where the supply power is being fed into the
electrical box that contains the switch. Figure 25 shows a
circuit where the supply power is being fed into the
electrical box to which the lighting fixture will be attached.
The ground wires are omitted from the illustrations for
visual clarity.

Switches Sometimes it can be confusing when working with

switches. Often the wires used to connect to the switch are
Switches are used to control the flow of electricity in many of those contained in a single NM-type cable (Figure 25).
the circuits in your home, Residential or Buildings.. They This means that one of the wires connected to the switch
can be basic switches that simply turn lights or receptacles would have white insulation. While the white wire is
on and off, or they can be more complex and perform normally reserved for the non-energized neutral conductor,
additional functions. Some switches have additional a white wire is also allowed to be used as an energized
circuitry built in to them that allows the lights in a room to conductor as long as is marked with a black band to
be dimmed in order to set the room’s indicate that it is an energized conductor.
“mood” or to save energy. Others contain a timer that allows
power to be supplied to a light or another device for a certain Figure 24 shows a wiring schematic plus an illustration
amount of time. Some switches can even be operated by touch showing two sections of NM cable running into the
and there is no button to push or handle (“toggle”) to switch’s electrical box. One comes from the power source
flip. Switches come rated for specific amperages, voltages, and the other comes from the lighting fixture. The black
and types of wires that can be used. wire from each cable is connected to a brass screw on the
switch. The two white neutral conductors are connected
In general, there are four basic types of switches available for together using a wire nut inside the switch’s electrical box.
use with home, Residential or Buildings. wiring: Single
Pole, Two Pole, Three-Way, and Four-Way. Let’s take a
look at these now.
1. The Single Pole Switch: (Figure 23) This type of
switch controls a light or receptacle from a single
location. Its toggle is marked with the labels “ON” and
“OFF” and it has two brass-colored screw terminals
used to attach the wires. The energized supply (hot)
wire connects to either one of the brass screw terminals
and the other wire (the switched wire) connects to the
other terminal and goes from there to the light or
receptacle. The grounding wire connects to the metal Switch Switch
part of the switch body using a green screw.

Power Feed Power Feed

Figure 24 – Switching a light – Power fed at the switch

Figure 25 shows a wiring schematic plus an illustration

showing two sections of NM cable entering the lighting
fixture’s electrical box, one coming from the power source
and the other going to the switch. In this case, the white wire
in the cable going to the switch, serves to extend the
energized hot conductor to the switch. Notice that the hot
wire from the source is tied to the white wire in the second
Figure 23 – Single Pole “Toggle” and “Rocker” Switches NM cable with a wire nut.

21
 Power
Feed
Power
Feed

WLV – to redraw

Figure 25 – Switching a light – Power fed at the light

You will notice that white wire in the cable going to the
switch has been clearly marked with a black band at each end.
This indicates that it has become a part of the “always
energized” part of the circuit. This marking is usually done
Power Feed Power Feed
with black electrical tape, but might be made with a black
permanent marker or other approved marking method. Notice Figure 27 – Three-way Circuit – Power fed at first switch
that both ends have been marked.

NOTE: With any type of switch, only the energized Three-wire (with grounding wire)
conductor(s) should be switched. Never place a switch NM cable is typically used when
within a neutral conductor’s path. wiring three-way switches. Power Feed

2. Three-Way Switch: (Figure 26) The next most common Figure 27 shows a three-way
circuit with power being brought
type of switch used in home, Residential or Buildings. in at the first switch. The red and
wiring is the three-way switch. This type of switch black wires in the three-wire NM
allows you to control a light from two separate locations, cable are the “traveler” wires.
usually opposite ends of the same room or at the top and The black wire from the source is
bottom of a stairway. There are no “ON” or “OFF” connected to the “common”
markings on a three-way switch. Just like the single- terminal of the first switch. The
pole switch, a three-way switch has two brass-colored black wire coming from the
screws but also has one additional screw terminal that is light’s electrical box is connected
either black or copper in color. This additional screw to the “common” terminal of the
is called the “Common Terminal.” The wires that get second switch. The neutral wire is
connected to the brass screws are called the “Traveler carried through from the source
Wires.” all the way to the lamp fixture.

Figure 28 show a three-way

circuit with power being brought
in at the lamp. Notice how the
white wire that is attached to the
“Common Terminal”
source’s energized wire is marked
Black or Copper-
colored screw with black tape to show it is also
energized. The two “traveler’
wires are the red wire and the
Figure 28
white wire in the three-wire NM
Three-way Circuit–
cable that has been marked with Power fed at the light
red tape to identified as one of
the traveler wires. The neutral
wire goes from the source directly
Figure 26 – Three-way Switch to the lamp fixture.

22
 3. Four-Way Switch: (Figure 29) A four-way switch IMPORTANT SAFETY GUIDELINES
allows you to control lights or receptacles from three of
more locations such as a large living room or workshop. It 1. Don’t attempt any electrical project unless you fully
has four brass-colored screws for connecting the wires. Just understand how to complete it. If required by Code,
like the three-way switch, it has no “ON’ or “OFF” have it checked by the local inspector. Complicated
markings. Only one four-way switch is needed for control electrical work may require the help of a competent
from three locations. The other two switches needed in the electrician. In some locations, only licensed electricians
circuit are both three-way. This manual will not go into the are allowed to perform major electrical work.
wiring of four-way switch circuits since it is fairly
complex; you can research it on your own if you are 2. Don’t attempt to work on a live circuit. Before doing
interested. any electrical work or repairs, shut off the electricity to
the circuit on which you will be working. This may
require removing a fuse or shutting off the circuit
breaker at the service entrance panel. Keep the power
off until the job is completed. (It is a good practice to
make a note at the breaker box indicating that work is
being done on a circuit.)

3. Before touching any wires, use a voltage testing device

(voltmeter, neon tester, non-contact voltage tester) to
make sure the power is off to the circuit.

4. Do stand on dry boards or rubber mat before touching

the service entrance panel or working with electricity if
there is even a slight chance that the floor may be damp
or wet.
Figure 29 – Four-way Switch 5. Metallic plumbing pipes should be grounded to the
electrical system; use caution around them.
4. Double-Pole Switch: A double-pole switch is used with
220 volt appliances and motors. It looks like a four-way 6. When the project or repair is completed, test the circuit
switch with its four brass screws, except that it has “ON” with an electrical tester to make sure that everything is
and “OFF markings on its toggle. It switches both of the in good working order.
hot wires at the same time. You can think of it as two
single-pole switches operated at the same time by the 7. Do install ground fault circuit interrupters (GFCI) to
same toggle. protect against electric shocks in bathrooms, kitchens,
garages, outdoor circuits and other places as required by
Code.
When to Replace a Switch or Receptacle
Switches and receptacles must be replaced if they are 8. Do use only wire and electrical accessories stamped
malfunctioning, cracked, or broken. Examples of problems with “U.L.”, indicating that the product has been tested
and approved by Underwriters Laboratory.
requiring further investigation:
• hot faceplate
9. Do not attach two or more wires under the same screw;
• loose outlet connection - appliance plug slips out of
instead, use a short piece of wire (a “pigtail”) and
or is easily pulled from outlet
connect it along with the other wires using a wire nut or
• switch that arcs or sparks or causes light controlled by it
other approved splices.
to flicker
• switches or receptacles that don't work

In general, when replacing a switch or receptacle, replace it

with the same type - check ratings. For example, if your
house is fitted with two prong (ungrounded) receptacles, you
cannot replace them with three prong (grounded) receptacles
since there may be no grounding wire in the circuit. If
updating circuits, it is necessary to follow Code. This would
most likely require updating circuits to accept three prong
receptacles or make use of Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters
(GFCI).
23
Putting it Together 3. Check
a. Ask classmate, or Professor to review
By now you should have learned about the circuits in your your diagrams and explanations. What
home, Residential or Buildings., how many appliances of comments and suggestions did they share
various wattages can be tied into a circuit, what size and with you?
kind of conductors should be used in a circuit, how
receptacles and switches are wired, and how to make sure
that a circuit is “dead” (not energized) before working on it.
In this next activity, you will use these skills to redesign
your bedroom.
ACTIVITY#12
Redesigning Your Room b. Did you find any receptacles or switches that
you feel needed to be replaced? If yes, why
should they be replaced?
1. Things needed
• pencil
• paper
• this manual

2. What you will do

a. How would you change the electrical circuit(s)
in the Room (or another room) if you could?
Changes may include the addition, deletion or
movement of switches, receptacles, lights or Things to remember
appliances. • The National Electric Code® makes specific
suggestions on the distance between receptacles,
numbers allowed per circuit size, etc. For more
specific information on these suggestions, refer
to the NEC or your local code.

b. On a piece of paper, draw your bedroom

showing all the existing circuits with
the receptacles, switches, and fixtures (using
the symbols from activity 1). (HINT: See activity
2)
c. Check each receptacle and switch using the
procedures identified previously in this manual.
(HINT: See activity 7)
d. On another piece of paper, diagram your
bedroom showing any changes you would like to
make to the existing circuit(s).
e. Explain why you would make these changes. Do
you think the changes would make your room
more convenient or desirable, etc.?

24
 INDUSTRIAL PLANNING AND MATERIAL HANDLING

Electric Project
BET-ET

NAME _________________________________________________ AGE_______________ YEAR _________

NAME OF GROUP ________________________________________ ACADEMIC STANING_______________

TOWNSHIP _______________________________________ COUNTY ________________________________

I have reviewed the progress of this record and believe it to be correct:

Signature of Leader _________________________________________________________ Date _____________
Signature of Leader _________________________________________________________ Date _____________
Signature of Leader _________________________________________________________ Date _____________

Demonstration you gave on something you learned in the electric project this ye ar. (if applicable
Title or subject _______________________________________________________________________________
Given before: BET-ET _______________________ agencyelectric meeting ______________________ Country
demonstration contest ________________________ Other organization __________________________ How
many times given? ______________________

FIELD TRIPS
To where ______________________________________________________________________________

What new things did you learn about electricity on the field trip? If
applicable________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________________

25
What did you learn?
1. A light fixture can be controlled from three separate locations by installing what types of
switches?

2. When replacing a receptacle you encountered two brass, two silver and one green screw on the receptacle.
The wires are black, white and bare copper. Which wire(s) should be connected to the brass screws?

Which wire(s) should be connected to the silver screws?

Which wire(s) should be connected to the green screw?

3. Determine the number of circuits, the type of circuits, and the size of breaker (or fuse) needed for each
circuit for a kitchen with the following appliances: microwave, popcorn popper, coffee maker,
dishwasher, refrigerator, toaster, food processor, and electric fry pan. (Note: if the wattage is not listed on
the appliance’s nameplate you will need to calculate the watts using the formula: volts x amps = watts.)

ITEM VOLTS AMPS WATTS

microwave 220 7.7
popcorn popper 220 12.0
coffee maker 220 7.0
dishwasher 220 12.5
refrigerator 220 6.5
toaster 220 7.5
food processor 220 2.5
electric fry pan 220 10.0

Draw a diagram, in the space provided, of each circuit with the breaker (or fuse) size and appliances connected to
each. (NOTE: Indicate which appliances on each circuit cannot be used at the same time.)

26
EXAMPLE CHECK LIST SHEET

27
Appendix 1.

Replacing an Outlet/Receptacle
Materials and Tools Needed:
• screwdriver Replacing an existing receptacle (outlet) is a relatively simple
• needle nose pliers procedure. Always replace any receptacle with the same type
• outlet tester (same ratings, not necessarily the same brand) as the one you
• new receptacle are removing. Most outlets in the home, Residential or
• sandpaper Buildings. will be duplex (accepts two plugs). Make sure that
the new receptacle is U.L. approved.

Replacing an End of the Run Receptacle

An “end of the run” receptacle is an outlet at the end of a circuit. There may be three conductors coming into the
box: one black-insulated current carrying conductor(wire), a white-ins ulated grounded conductor, and a bare or
green-insulated grounding conductor.

Removing receptacle from the wall:

1. Turn off power to the circuit containing the receptacle which you are about to replace. This can be done by
flipping the correct breaker or removing the correct fuse. If in doubt, turn off all the power in the house.
2. Using an outlet tester (or other voltage testing device), double check to make sure that the receptacle is dead.
3. Remove the screws holding the cover plate.
4. Remove the cover plate.
5. Remove the mounting screws attaching the receptacle to the box.
6. Pull the receptacle away from the box as far as the wires will easily allow.
7. Loosen the hot, neutral and grounding terminal screws and unhook the wires from the old receptacle.

Note: The black wire should be attached to the brass terminal; the white wire should be attached to the
silver terminal; the grounding wire (bare copper or green) should be connected to the grounding terminal
located at one corner of the receptacle. If you are looking at the receptacle because a polarity checker test
indicated a wiring problem, examine the connections to see if the wires were incorrectly attached. If they
were, simply reconnect the wires to the proper terminals following the procedure outlined below.

Installing a new receptacle:

1. Scrape the bare ends of the wires to remove dirt and corrosion. Sometimes a better way is to use a fine-grit
sandpaper to remove dirt and corrosion from the wires.
2. Loosen the screw terminals on the new receptacle as much as possible but do not remove them.
3. Hook the white wire around the shank of the silver-colored terminal screw. Be sure the end of the hook faces
in the same direction that the terminal screw tightens (clockwise). Tighten the screw on the wire securely.
4. If the receptacle is a grounding type, connect the grounding wire (copper or green) to the green grounding terminal
screw. Be sure the end of the hook faces in the same direction that the terminal screw tightens
(clockwise). Tighten the screw on the wire securely.
5. Hook the black wire to the brass terminal on the opposite side of the receptacle. Be sure the end of the hook faces
in the same direction that the terminal screw tightens (clockwise). Tighten the screw on the wire securely.
6. Recheck your connections. An error in connecting the wires could cause a short circuit.
7. Fold the wires as needed to get any excess length of wire back into the box, then push the receptacle into the outlet
box. (NOTE: Make sure any grounding conductor(s) stay well clear of the hot terminals on the receptacle.)
8. Replace the mounting screws and secure the receptacle to the box.
9. Replace the cover plate and screws.
10.Turn on power to the receptacle.
11.Use an outlet tester (or other voltage testing device), to check for correct polarity and grounding.
28
Replacing a Middle of the Run Receptacle
Replacing a “middle of the run” receptacle is similar to replacing an “end of the run” receptacle except there are more
wires involved. These extra wires (black and white) supply electricity to another receptacle(s) further “down-stream”
in the circuit. In addition to the extra hot and neutral wires, there are incoming and outgoing grounding wires.

Removing receptacle from wall:

• Follow the same steps as with the end of the run receptacle. You will have two black and two white wires in the
box (one coming from the previous receptacle and one going to the next). You may notice the two black wires are
“pigtailed” together with a third short black wire (using a wire nut) which goes to one of the brass screws. If there
is no pigtail, the two wires would simply be attached individually to the two brass screw terminals on the
receptacle. Like the black wires, the white wires may be pigtailed together with a third wire or attached
individually to silver screw terminals.

• If non-metallic (plastic, fiberglass) boxes are being used, the two grounding wires (bare or green insulated) in the
NM cable must be tied together with a third short wire (bare or green insulated) in a pigtail using a wire nut. The
third wire connects to the grounding screw on the receptacle.

• If metal boxes are being used, the grounding conductors in the NM cable would be pigtailed together with two
short bare or green-insulated grounding conductors. One of the short wires is connected to the green-colored
machine screw on the receptacle. The other is secured to the box with a grounding clip or a green machine screw
using the threaded hole in the back of the box.

Installing a new receptacle:

NM cable to
• Follow the same steps as in the end of the run next receptacle
receptacle. in the circuit

• Remember that the two black wires and the two

white wires may be connected with a pig-tail so
that only one black and one white wire will
need to be connected to the proper screws on the
receptacle or, all each of the four of the wires
may go to individual screws. The pigtail method
is the “preferred” method and is used most often
today.

• Remember, for non-metallic boxes, the

grounding conductor is simply attached to the
grounding terminal on the receptacle. For metal
boxes, a short grounding wire must be attached
to the grounding terminal on the receptacle and
another short grounding wire must be attached
to the electrical box.

Note: When using a metal box, the grounding

conductors in the NM cables must connect to
the grounding screws on both the box and the
receptacle. Notice how the next size larger (red) NM cable from previous
wire nut is being used to connect four wires. receptacle in the circuit

29
Appendix 2. Replacing Switches

Materials and Tools Needed Switches that are too loud or malfunctioning in some way need to be
• screwdriver replaced. Replacing a switch is a relatively simple procedure.
• needle nose pliers Switches are standardized so they will fit all boxes and faceplates. It is
• new switch critical that switches are replaced with the same type (not same brand).
• sandpaper Check amperage ratings and wire type on the switch that is being
• wire stripper replaced and make sure the new switch has U.L. approval.

Replacing Single Pole Switches with Terminal Screws

To remove the old switch from the wall:

1. Turn off power to the circuit containing the switch which you are about to replace. This can be done by flipping
the correct breaker or removing the correct fuse. If in doubt, turn off all the power in the house.
2. After turning off power to the circuit, double-check that power is off by turning the light switch to the “on”
position. If the light comes on, you have turned off the wrong circuit. You need to locate and turn off the correct
breaker or remove the correct fuse and then re-test for the power being off.
3. Remove the screws holding the cover plate.
4. Remove the cover plate.
5. Remove the mounting screws attaching the switch to the box.
6. Pull the switch away from the box as far as the wires will easily allow.
7. Loosen the two brass-colored terminal screws and the grounding terminal screw and unhook the wires from the
old receptacle.

Note: There are two black wires attached to the terminals; the grounding wire (green or bare copper) will be
attached to the green screw on the new switch.

To install a new switch:

1. If needed, removed enough insulation from the wires so that they can wrap three-quarters of the way around
the screw terminals. Clean the bare ends of the wires with fine sandpaper to remove dirt and corrosion.
Bend the wires into little loops with the pliers so they can be hooked around the screws.
2. Fully loosen (but don’t remove) the screw terminals from the new switch.
3. Hold the switch so that the "OFF” marking on the toggle will be at the top.
4. Connect the wires to the screw terminals. The black wires can be placed under either screw. Be sure the
end of the hook faces in the same direction that the terminal screw tightens (clockwise). Tighten the screws on
the wires securely.
5. If the switch is grounded, connect the grounding wire to the green screw on the new switch. Be sure the end of
the hook faces in the same direction that the terminal screw tightens (clockwise). Tighten the screws on the
wires securely.
6. Recheck your connections. An error in your connection could cause the circuit breaker to trip or the fuse to
blow.
7. With the switch in its off position, align the switch so that “OFF” is pointed toward the ceiling. Fold the
wires as needed to get any excess length of wire back into the box, then push the switch into the electrical box.
(NOTE: Make sure any grounding conductor(s) stay well clear of the hot terminals on the switch.)
8. Replace the mounting screws and secure the switch to the box.
9. Replace the cover plate and screws.
10. Turn on power to the circuit.
11. Test the switch by moving it on and off several times and observing the light.

30
Replacing Three-way Switches

To remove the old switch from the wall:

1. Turn off power to the circuit containing the switch which you are about to replace. This can be done by flipping
the correct breaker or removing the correct fuse. If in doubt, turn off all the power in the house.
2. After turning off power to the circuit, double-check that power is off by turning the light switch to the “on”
position. If the light comes on, you have turned off the wrong circuit. You need to locate and turn off the correct
breaker or remove the correct fuse and then re-test for the power being off.
3. Remove the screws holding the cover plate.
4. Remove the cover plate.
5. Remove the mounting screws attaching the switch to the box.
6. Pull the switch away from the box as far as the wires will easily allow.
7. Loosen the two brass-colored terminal screws, the black or copper-colored common terminal screw, and the
grounding terminal screw and unhook the wires from the old receptacle.

Note: there should be four wires connected to the old switch. Two of these wires will be connected to brass
terminal screws while the third will be fastened to a black or copper colored terminal screw, and the last to the
grounding terminal screw. Mark the wire connected to the black or copper-colored screw with a piece of “tan”
masking tape so that you won’t lose track of where it goes. (Other wires may have colored tape on them.)

To install a new switch:

1. If needed, removed enough insulation from the wires so that they can wrap three-quarters of the way around
the screw terminals. Clean the bare ends of the wires with fine sandpaper to remove dirt and corrosion. Bend
the wires into little loops with the pliers so they can be hooked around the screws.
2. Fully loosen (but don’t remove) the terminal screws from the new switch.
3. Connect the wires to the screw terminals. Make sure that the wire you marked with the tape goes back on the
terminal with the black or copper-colored screw. The other two wires go to either of the brass screws and the
grounding wire goes to the green screw. Hook wires securely around the screws. Be sure the end of the hook
faces in the same direction that the terminal screws tighten (clockwise). Tighten the screws on the wires
securely.

3-Way Switch – Middle of the Run

(See Figure 28 for complete circuit) Common terminal

Traveler wires
(Can connect to either
brass screw terminal) NM cable to box
with light and
power feed
NM cable to other 3-way
switch in the circuit

31
 Note: “Three-wire plus ground” type NM cable is often used for wiring three-way switches with the white and
red wires in these cables being used in very specific ways. The wires going to the brass-colored screws may
not both have black insulation; one could be black and another black but marked with a red “stripe” or else
one could be red and another white but marked with a red “stripe.” It is OK to reverse either of the two wires
going to the brass screw terminals without affecting the switch’s function.

4. If the switch is grounded, connect the grounding wire to the green screw on the new switch. Be sure the end
of the hook faces in the same direction that the terminal screw tightens (clockwise). Tighten the screws on
the wires securely.
5. Recheck your connections. An error in your connection could cause the circuit breaker to trip or the fuse to
blow.
6. Fold the wires as needed to get any excess length of wire back into the box, then push the switch into the
box. For a three-way switch, there is no need to orient the switch a certain direction when installing it in the
box. If you look at the toggle, you will notice it does not even have “On” and "Off” markings.
(NOTE: Make sure any grounding conductor(s) stay well clear of the hot terminals on the switch.)
7. Replace the mounting screws and secure the switch to the box.
8. Replace the cover plate and screws.
9. Turn on the power to the circuit.
10. Test the switch by moving it on and off several times and observing the light. Go to the other three-way switch
that controls the light and test the light from that switch as well.

32
Replacing Light-Dimmer Switches

Materials and Tools Needed

• screwdriver
Dimmer switches allow the intensity of the
• needle nose pliers
• new dimmer switch light to be controlled. This is desirable to
• sandpaper save energy and to create moods.
• wire stripper

To remove the old dimmer switch from the wall:

1. Turn off power to the circuit containing the switch which you are about to replace. This can be done by flipping
the correct breaker or removing the correct fuse. If in doubt, turn off all the power in the house.
2. After turning off power to the circuit, double-check that power is off by turning the light switch to the “on”
position. If the light comes on, you have turned off the wrong circuit. You need to locate and turn off the correct
breaker or remove the correct fuse and then re-test for the power being off.
3. Remove the screws holding the cover plate.
4. Remove the cover plate.
5. Remove the mounting screws attaching the switch to the box.
6. Pull the switch away from the box as far as the wires will easily allow.
7. Loosen the two brass-colored terminal screws and the grounding terminal screw and unhook the wires from
the old receptacle. If the dimmer switch does not have screw terminals but has leads instead, remove the wire
nuts and disconnect the wires.

Note: there are two black wires attached to the terminals; the grounding wire (green or bare copper) should
be connected to the green screw on the new switch. Some dimmer switches come with short black wires
extending out from the body of the switch. In this case, the switch is connected into the circuit using wire
nuts.

Note: Some dimmer switches may not use screw terminals but instead have two

To install a new dimmer switch:

1. If needed, removed enough insulation from the wires so that they can wrap three-quarters of the way around
the screw terminals. Clean the bare ends of the wires with fine sandpaper to remove dirt and corrosion. Bend
the wires into little loops with the pliers so they can be hooked around the screws.
2. If the dimmer switch has screw terminals, loosen (but don’t remove) the screws on the new switch.
3. Hook the wires securely around the screws. Be sure the end of the hook faces in the same direction that the
terminal screws tighten (clockwise). Tighten the screws on the wires securely.
4. Most dimmer switches have two wires corning from them. These wires are connected to the permanent wires
with wire nuts. Either wire coming from the switch can be connected to either of the permanent wires.
5. Recheck your connections. An error in your connection could cause the circuit breaker to trip or the fuse to
blow.
6. Fold the wires as needed to get any excess length of wire back into the box, then push the switch into the box.
7. Replace the mounting screws and secure the switch to the box.
8. Replace the cover plate and screws.
9. Install the control knob.
10. Turn the power on to the circuit.
11. Test the dimmer knob by turning it on and off several times.

33
 Wiring Around residential/
Appendix 3.

Buildings
Glossary of Electrical Terms related to Residential Wiring

Ampacity: The current in Amperes that a conductor can carry continuously under the conditions of use without
exceeding the conductor’s temperature rating.
Ampere: The measurement of the rate of flow of current in an electrical circuit. One Ampere is the
measurement of the rate at which current that will flow through a resistance of 1 Ohm when an electrical
potential of 1 Volt is applied across that resistance. Sometimes this term is shortened to the word “Amp.”
Arc-Fault Circuit Interrupter (AFCI): A device that is able to sense when an electrical arc occurs somewhere in a
circuit and acts to de-energize the circuit connected to it.
AWG (American Wire Gauge): This is the industry standard used to specify the size of electrical conductors.
There are 40 different electrical conductor sizes ranging from 36 AGW (smallest) to 0000 AWG (largest). Each
consecutive AGW size is 1.26 times smaller or bigger in diameter than the next. The larger the diameter, the
greater the conductor’s current carrying capacity (ampacity).
Ballast: A device that is an integral part of a fluorescent light. It is used to regulate the amount of current which
is allowed to flow though the light.
Bonding: Connecting the metal parts of electrical components together to assure electrical conductivity
between them. It is the practice of intentionally electrically connecting all exposed metallic items not designed
to carry electricity in a room or building as protection from electric shock.
Bonding Jumper, Main: This is a connection made between the grounded circuit conductor (Neutral) and the
equipment grounding conductor inside the service entrance panel.
Branch Circuit: Consists of the circuit conductors that are between the final overcurrent device (fuse/circuit
breaker) protecting the circuit and the outlet(s) which are part of that circuit. There are three types of branch
circuits – General Purpose, Small Appliance, and Individual.
Circuit Breaker: A circuit protection device that is designed to either be 1) manually operated to open or close a
circuit; or 2) automatically open a circuit when a predetermined overcurrent flows through the circuit. These
are most often used inside the service entrance panel.
Continuous Load: An electrical load where the maximum current in a circuit is expected to continue for a
period of 3 hours or longer. A continuous load shall not exceed 80% of the rating of the branch circuit.
CU: a marking on wire connectors, lugs and device terminals that indicates they are suitable for use with
Copper conductors only.
Current: The flow of electricity (electrons) through an electrical circuit. Current is measured in Amperes.
Dedicated Circuit: See Individual Branch Circuit.
Duplex Receptacle: An electrical outlet that allows two plug-and-cord-connected devices to be connected to
the house wiring system and receive power at the same time.
Floor Plan: A scale diagram of a room or building drawn as if seen from above. Floor plans show construction
details such as placement of plumbing, the electrical system, and doors and windows.
Fuse: An overcurrent protection device with a fusible link which melts during an overcurrent condition in a
circuit in order to stop the flow of electricity. Fuses can often be found in older service entrances panels and
come in various ratings and form-factors.
Ground: The earth. It is used as the “common reference point” for measuring electrical potential (voltages)
within an electrical system.

34
Grounded (Grounding): Connected to the ground or connected to an electrically conductive item that
physically extends the connection to the ground.
Grounded Conductor: (Not to be confused with Grounding conductor.) For residential wiring, this is the
“Neutral” wire which is the one with the white insulation.
Ground Fault: An unintentional, connection between a current carrying conductor and non-current carrying
(grounded) parts of an electrical system (other conductors, metal enclosures, conduit, earth, etc.) causing
current to flow on an unintended path (Ground-Fault Current Path).
Ground Fault Circuit-Interrupter (GFCI): A device used to protect persons from the risk of bodily injury by de -
energizing a circuit within a very short period of time when the current flowing to ground exceeds .006
amperes.
Ground-Fault Current Path: The path on which fault current flows beginning at the point of the ground fault
and flowing through normally non-current carrying parts of the electrical system back to the electrical supply
source.
Grounding Conductor: A conductor that is used to connect equipment or the grounded circuit of a wiring
system to the grounding electrode or electrodes. In residential wiring, this is typically a 4 AWG – 8 AWG bare
copper wire.
Grounding Electrode: A conducting material making a direct connection to the earth. This could be a metal
water pipe, concrete-encased bare copper conductor, or a ground rod. Ground rods must be at least 0.5” in
diameter and at least 8’ long.
Individual Branch Circuit: A branch circuit that supplies only one piece of utilization equipment (such as an
electric range). Typically, a single receptacle (not a Duplex receptacle).
Insulated/Insulation: A non-conductive covering applied to wires or placed between conductive materials to
prevent current from leaving a conductor and flowing on an unintended path.
Lighting Outlet: An outlet intended for the direct connection of a lamp holder or luminaire.
Load: The electrical power consumed by the devices attached to an electrical system. Loads can be of several
types, the main ones being – Continuous, Non-Continuous, and Intermittent.
Load Balancing: The arrangement or sequence of attaching conductors to the panelboard (service entrance
panel) in order to balance the anticipated loads on the phase conductors. With a balanced load, the connected
equipment would draw an equal current through each 220-volt leg of a 220V/440V electrical system. Generally
speaking, the simplest way to balance the load on a panelboard is to connect an equal number of branch
circuits to each phase conductor.
Load Center: Also known as a Service Entrance Panel or Residential Panel Board. Circuit breakers typically
“plug-in” to load centers whereas they “bolt-in” to panel boards.
Location Damp: An exterior or interior location that is normally or periodically subject to condensation of
moisture in, on, or adjacent to, electrical equipment, and includes partially protected locations.
Location Dry: A location not normally subject to dampness, but may include a location subject to temporary
dampness, as in the case of a building under construction, provided ventilation is adequate to prevent an
accumulation of moisture.
Location Wet: A location in which water or other liquid can drip, splash, or flow on or against electrical
equipment.
Luminaire: A complete lighting unit consisting of a light source such as a lamp or lamps, together with the parts
designed to position the light source and connect in to a power supply. Prior to the National Electrical Code
adopting this term, “lighting fixture” was the commonly used term. This term is still used more often than
luminaire.

35
Maximum Continuous Load: Defined to be 80% of the circuit rating (protection device). Any electrical load that
operates for a period of 3 hours or more on a branch circuit shall not exceed 80% of the circuit rating
(protection device).
National Electrical Code (NEC): The electrical code published by the National Fire Protection Association. This
code provides for practical safeguarding of persons and property from hazards arising from the use of electricity. It
does not become law until adopted by federal, state, and local laws and regulations.
PEC I - Electrical Installation inside buildings.
PEC II - Electrical Installation outside buildings.
Neutral Conductor: The conductor connected to the neutral point of an electrical system that is intended to carry
current under normal conditions.
Ohm: A unit of measure for electrical resistance. One Ohm is the amount of resistance that will permit one
Ampere of current to flow when one Volt is applied across the resistance.
Open Circuit: A circuit that does not have a continuous path over which current can flow. Turning off a switch
creates an open circuit (good), while a loose connection also can create an open circuit (bad).
Outlet: A point on the wiring system at which current is taken to supply utilization equipment.
Overcurrent: Any current is excess of the rated current of the equipment or the ampacity of a conductor.
Overcurrent Device: Also referred to as an Overcurrent Protection Device and is a form of protection that
operates when current exceeds a pre-determined value. These devices are primarily consist of circuit breakers and
fuses.
Overload: Operation of equipment in excess of the normal full-load rating, or of a conductor in excess of its rated
ampacity, that over time, would cause damage or dangerous overheating.
Receptacle: A receptacle is a contact device at the outlet for the connection of an attachment plug.
Receptacle Outlet: An outlet where one or more receptacles are attached.
Romex: A trade name for Nonmetallic Sheathed Cable (NM).
Service: The conductors and equipment for delivering energy from the servicing utility to the wiring system of the
premises served.
Service Conductors: The conductors running from the service point to the service disconnecting device.
Service Drop: The overhead service conductors from the last pole or other aerial support that connect to the
service-entrance conductors at the building.
Service Entrance Panel (SEP): A metal enclosure that houses circuit protection devices (circuit breakers or fuses)
and provides the means by which power is divided up to be distributed to the individual circuits. It contains a
“Main” breaker that allows the power from the utility company to be disconnected from the entire building.
Service Equipment: The equipment intended to be the main control and means of cutting off of the supply of
electricity to a building. This usually consists of a circuit breaker or switch and fuse and their accessories.
Short Circuit: A connection between any two or more conductors of an electrical system in such a way as to
significantly reduce the resistance of the circuit. This situation causes the currently to flow outside of the intended
path, hence the term “Short Circuit.” A short circuit is referred to as a “Fault.”
Split-Circuit Receptacle: A standard duplex receptacle whose “break-away” tabs have been removed and is
connected such that one half of the receptacle supplies power all the time while power to the other half is
controlled by a switch.
Surface-Mounted Luminaire: A luminaire mount directly on (surface of) the ceiling or a wall.
Switch: A device use to control (enable or disable) the flow of electricity in a circuit or portion of a circuit.
Terminal: A screw or quick-connect device where a conductor is intended to be connected.

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Three-way Switch: A type of switch that is used in pairs to allow you to control the power supplied to a light or
receptacle from two different locations.
UL: Underwriters Laboratories (UL) is an independent not-for-profit organization that develops standards and tests
electrical equipment to those standards.
UL-Listed: Indicates that an item has been tested and approved to the standards established by the UL for that
particular item.
Ungrounded: Not connected to ground or a conductive body that extends to the ground connection.
Volt: A measurement of electrical potential energy. It is the difference in electrical potential between two points
of a conductor carrying one Ampere when the power being dissipated between those two points is one Watt.
Voltage (nominal): A value assigned to a circuit or system for the purpose of specifying its (nominal) operating
voltage. In residential systems the nominal voltage would be specified as 220/440 Volts. In practice, the actual
voltages can vary slightly around the specified nominal voltages.
Voltage Drop: A reduction in voltage (difference in electrical potential energy) at a given point in a circuit due to
current flowing through a resistance (typically the conductors in a circuit). The voltage drop across any given
length of conductor can be calculated by “Ohm’s Law”: E (voltage) = I (current) x R (resistance).
Watt: A unit of power. It is equal to: W (wattage) = E (voltage) x I (current).