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Crochet toy pattern

Designer: OLGA KRYLOVA

Instagram: @fox_and_dog

APRIL 2023
 My doll measures
about 30 cm (11.8
inches) (including hair).
MATERIALS
1. Yarn:
YarnArt Jeans yarn (50g/160m) of skin color (number 07) -
less than a half of a skein;
YarnArt Jeans yarn can be YarnArt Jeans yarn (50g/160m) of graphite color (number 28)
substituted with Alize - 1 skein (for shoes and cloak);
Cotton Gold of matching Gazzal Baby Cotton (50g/165m) of dark grey color (number
color and vice versa. But pay 3450) - less than a half of a skein (for trousers);
attention, that Alize is a bit
Cotton Gold yarn (100g/330m) of terracotta color (number
thinner (100g/330m) and it
can affect the toy size. 36) - less than a half of a skein (for hair);
YarnArt Jeans yarn (50g/160m) of white color (number 01) -
less than a half of a skein (for T-shirt, scarf and pawn);
YarnArt Jeans yarn (50g/160m) of maroon color (number 66) -
Pay attention that in case small amount (for necktie and scarf);
of using materials other YarnArt Jeans yarn (50g/160m) of light grey color (number
than listed, your toy size 49) - less than a half of a skein (for sweater);
will differ from mine. YarnArt Jeans yarn (50g/160m) of gold color (number 84) -
small amount (for scarf and sweater details);
Alize Cotton Gold yarn (100g/330m) of dark color (number
60) - less than a half of a skein (for pants and accessories);
Also the toy size depends Alize Cotton Gold yarn (100g/330m) of beige color (number
largely on the technique 499) - small amount (for chessboard).
you crochet single crochet 2. 10 mm safety eyes.
stitches (V-shaped sc, X- 3. Fiberfill (hollow fiber).
shaped sc, semi-X shaped 4. 2 mm crochet hook Clover (or 1.75 mm of any other brand).
sc). I give the information 5. 1.2 mm copper wire for frame.
about differences between 6. Needle, scissors, pins.
these methods in the next 7. Stitch marker.
page. 8. Masking tape or adhesive tape for wire frame.
9. Thick cardboard or plastic sheet for insoles.
10. 10 mm buttons for sweater of any color - 3 pc, and one 10
My stitches have semi-X mm button of black color for trousers.
shape. If you use the 11. Hard pastels for painting.
technique which creates “V
shaped” stitches, then your
doll would probably be
bigger.
 The way you crochet
your stitches play an
V AND X SHAPED STITCHES
important role. My
Single crochet stitches can have a shape of “V” or “X”. The
stitches have a semi-X
shape. shape our stitches get depends on the way we grab the
working thread when crocheting.
When you work in “yarn
«V-shape (Yarn over technique)». This way is counted as a
over technique”, your
classic one. In this case we insert the hook into the stitch
crochet pattern becomes
(photo 1) and you place your hook under the yarn (photo 2).
more smooth, and the
And pull the yarn over the hook from back to front (photo
fabric will be more
3). Then pull the yarn in the same way (photo 4) and finish
stretchy. the stitch.

When you do “yarn under”, «X-shape (Yarn under technique)». In this case we insert
the fabric becomes more the hook into the stitch (photo 5) and place your hook over
relief and dense because of the yarn (photo 6). Pull the yarn through (photo 7). Then pull
twisting the loops. the yarn one more time in the same way (photo 8) and finish
the stitch.

Photo 1. Photo 2. Photo 3. Photo 4.

Photo 5. Photo 6. Photo 7. Photo 8.

My stitches have a “semi-X” shape. I start to crochet a stitch like in the yarn under technique (photo
6), then pull the thread and grab the yarn for the second time like in yarn over technique (photo 2).
 Difficulty level is upper
ABBREVIATIONS
intermediate. MR - magic ring
ch - chain
sc - single crochet

This pattern doesn’t hdc - half double crochet

dc - double crochet
include any crochet lessons. tr - treble crochet
It’s supposed that you dec - decrease
inc - increase
know how to crochet basic sl st - slip stitch
stitches.
(..)*n - repeat the combination in
parentheses n times
(x) - at the end of every round I write a
The materials of this pattern total number of stitches in parentheses
are copyrighted. Copying, In this pattern we use US terminology.
sharing, reselling this document
of its parts are prohibited.

Notes:

The toy pieces are crocheted in a

spiral without making a turning
chain (until otherwise stated).

For working at this toy I use invisible

decreases:
I insert the crochet hook into the front
loop of the first stitch, don’t pull the
thread and at once insert the hook into
both loops of the second stitch, pull the
thread through all stitches on the hook.
 ABOUT LEGS
Want to pay your attention to one important moment,
which often causes difficulties in understanding.

When we will crochet legs, we will call them as «the left

leg» and «the right leg». You should understand that along
with this we are oriented towards our doll. The left leg is
the one that is located on the left side towards the doll.
But if we look to the doll’s face, it is located on the right
side towards you.

Analogically with the right leg. The right leg is the one
that is located on the right side towards the doll. If we
look to the doll’s face, it is located on the left side
towards you.

Hope this clarification helps you not to get confused

when crocheting the legs.

Happy crocheting!
 INSTRUCTIONS
Let’s start making our cute wizard!
 ARMS
Make two identical pieces. The arms are crocheted
separately and then joined as we crochet the body.
Don’t stuff. Crochet with the yarn of skin color in spiral
and use 2 mm crochet hook Clover (or 1.75 mm of any
other brand) - US 4.

1 round: 6sc in MR (6)

2 round: 6inc (12)
3 round: (inc, 5sc)*2 (14)
1. 4-6 rounds: 14sc (14) - 3 rounds
7 round: bobble stitch, consisting of 3 dc, 13sc (14)
8 round: (dec, 5sc)*2 (12)
9 round: (dec, 4sc)*2 (10)
10-35 rounds: 10sc (10) - 26 rounds

Fold the arm in half and work several additional sc

needed to shift the thumb to the arm side (for the right
and for the left arm). Cut the thread and fasten off.

Prepare the wire frame for the arms. Cut two pieces of
wire using wire cutters. The length of the pieces should
equal about 18 cm. Bend one of the wire ends, like in
the photo (photo 3), and wrap the wire across the
whole length (photo 4).
2.

3. 4.
 LEGS
For the legs we need three colors: graphite color - for
shoes, black color - for socks and skin color - for legs.

Start crocheting the first leg in graphite color (it will be

the left leg for the doll). Make ch9 and crochet from the
5. second ch from the hook:

1 round: inc, 6sc, 4sc into 1 stitch, along the other side of
the chain 6sc, inc (into the first stitch, where we have
already worked the first increase of the round) (20)
Place marker.

2 round: 2inc, 6sc, 4inc, 6sc, 2inc (28)

3 round: (1sc, inc)*2, 3sc, 3hdc, (1hdc, hdc inc)*2,
(hdc inc, 1hdc)*2, 3hdc, 3sc, (inc, 1sc)*2 (36)
6.
Crochet 1-2 sc additionally to shift the stitch marker to the
middle of the heel. Place marker. The beginning of the
rounds will be here now.

Take a piece of cardboard or plastic sheet, place the sole

on it and draw an outline around. Cut two pieces. We will
use these two insoles to strengthen the legs. Cut about 2
mm from the piece edge, so that we are able to insert
them into the feet.

7. 4-5 rounds: crochet both rounds into back loops only 36sc
(36) - 2 rounds

Check the marker location. It should be located exactly in

the middle of the heel. In the next rounds we will make
decreases to form the foot. If the marker isn’t located at
the necessary point, then the foot won’t get the right
shape. Insert the cardboard insole.

8.
 6 round: 36sc (36)
7 round: 8sc, (hdc dec, 2hdc)*2, 2hdc dec, (2hdc, hdc
How to work half double crochet dec)*2, 8sc (30)
decreases:
Yarn over, insert the crochet hook Advice: hold the tight tension when working
into front loop of the first stitch, hdc stitches! Otherwise there will be holes
pull the thread, yarn over again, formed between the stitches, and the
insert the crochet hook into the fiberfill will be seen through them.
front loop of the second stitch, pull
the thread, and then pull through all
stitches on the hook. Check for the marker location. It should be located
exactly in the middle of the back side on the foot.

8 round: 6sc, (1sc, dec)*3, (dec, 1sc)*3, 6sc (24)

9 round: 6sc, 6dec (work in this case ordinary decreases,
not invisible ones, pull the thread tighter), 6sc (18) - when
crocheting the last stitch change the thread color to black
(photo 9).
Cut the thread of graphite color and fasten off.

10 round: into back loops only 6sc, 3dec, 6sc (15)

9. 11 round: 15sc (15)
12 round: inc, 14sc (16)

Prepare the wire for the legs. Take a copper wire and
measure two pieces with the length of about 30 cm (the
doll’s size). These pieces will be placed into the feet, will
go across the whole length of the legs, across the body
and the neck, and a part of them will be located inside of
the doll’s head. Bend one end on both pieces forming a
loop (about 1 cm) (photo 3). Wrap about 11 cm of each
piece with a masking tape or with adhesive tape.
10.
This part will be located inside of the legs till the point where the wire pieces will be joined and
twisted inside of the body. Now bend one of the ends at the angle of 90 degrees (photo 10).

Stuff the leg as you go, adding fiberfill gradually. Insert the wire into the foot and crochet around
the frame.
 13 round: 16sc (16)
14 round: inc, 15sc (17) - the increase should be located
exactly in the middle of the heel
15-17 rounds: 17sc (17) - 3 rounds

Work several sc additionally to shift the stitch marker to

the middle of the back side on the leg. When working
the last stitch change the thread color to skin. Place
marker. Cut the thread of black color and fasten off.

11. 18 round: into back loops only 17sc (17)

19-40 rounds: 17sc (17) - 22 rounds

Work several sc additionally to finish the work exactly in

the middle of the inner side on the leg (till the point
where this leg should be joined with the other one).

After this for the first leg fasten off the thread and cut.

Make the second leg (this is the right leg for our doll)
according to the same pattern.

When working the last stitch on the second leg change

the thread color to black and add one more round with
12. 17sc, if needed (pay attention to the clarification below).
Cut the thread of skin color and fasten off. Then work
several number of sc additionally to reach to the middle
of the right side on the leg and make ch4.

Pay attention! The left edge of the piece is often

turns out lower than the right edge. Therefore for
the second leg I add one more round. Put both
legs near each other and compare their length. If
your first leg is longer than the second one, then
we need to add one more round for the second
leg, like I did. If your legs look equal, then just
start joining them.

13.
14. BODY
Now we will join the legs and crochet the body.

1 round: insert the hook into the next stitch after the
point we have finished on the right leg and crochet 17sc
around the first leg, 4sc along the chain, 9sc around the
second leg, place marker (30) - short round - the
beginning of a new round will be here now. We should
get 39 stitches around both legs and the chain.

2 round: 42sc (42)

15. 3 round: 8sc, inc, 2sc, inc, 17sc, inc, 2sc, inc, 9sc (46)
4 round: 8sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 17sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 9sc (50)
5-14 rounds: 50sc (50) - 10 rounds
15 round: (dec, 23sc)*2 (48)
16 round: 11sc, dec, 22sc, dec, 11sc (46) - when working
the last stitch change the thread color to white - the color
changing point should be necessarily located in the
middle of the body side. Cut the thread of black color and
fasten off.

Stuff the area where we joined the legs tight enough to

spread the folds (marked with arrows in photo 15).

Now let’s work with the wireframe. Bend the wire ends
from both legs towards each other at the right angles.
Then twist them around each other. Wrap the wire with a
masking tape or with adhesive tape.

16.

Pay attention to folds, which

were formed between the legs
after we have joined them. The
areas, marked with arrows,
should be stuffed firmly enough
to make the fabric even.
 Crochet in white color.
17. 17 round: into back loops only 46sc (46)
18-32 rounds: 46sc (46) - 15 rounds

In the next round we will join the arms. Unravel or add a

pair of stitches additionally (I had to unravel 2 stitches), so
that the arms are located symmetrically on the body sides,
according to this scheme: 4sc - for the first arm, 18sc - for
the back side, 4sc - for the second arm, 20sc - for the front
side of the body. Place marker. Pay attention, that the
thumbs should be facing forward.
18.
33 round: 4sc along the body and the inner side of the first
arm, 18sc along the back side, 4sc along the body and the
inner side of the second arm, 20sc along the front part of
the body (46)

34 round: 6sc along the outer side of the first arm, 18sc
along the back side, 6sc along the outer side of the second
arm, 20sc along the front side of the body (50)

Now take the wire we have prepared for arms and insert the
19. pieces into both arms. Bend both wire ends towards each
other and then twist them around the main frame. Wrap the
part of the wireframe with a masking tape or adhesive tape
(the part which will be located inside of the neck).

20. 21. 22.

 35 round: into back loops only 7sc, into both loops 16sc, into
23. back loops only 7sc, into both loops 20sc (50)

36 round: 6sc, dec, 14sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 16sc, dec (46)
37 round: 6sc, dec, 12sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 14sc, dec (42)
38 round: (5sc, dec)*6 (36)
39 round: (2sc, dec)*9 (27)
40 round: (1sc, dec)*9 (18)

Don’t forget to add fiberfill.

24. Work 2-3 additional sc till the middle of the neck side and
when working the last stitch change the thread color to
skin. Cut the white thread, leave a long thread tail (about 1
meter) outside of the body to make a collar.

41 round: into back loops only 18sc (18)

42-45 rounds: 18sc (18) - 4 rounds

Work several sc additionally to finish the work in the middle

of the back side. Cut the thread and fasten off.

25. Now bend the wire ends downwards and wrap them with a
masking tape or with adhesive tape.

Now make a collar. Pull the thread of white color we have

left when crocheting the body from the point on the front
side leaving 1 stitch from the center (the round which was
crocheted into back loops only).

Crochet the color clockwise. Make ch3 and crochet into free
front loops of stitches: (2dc, dc inc)*5, until we reach to the
26. second-to-last stitch. Don’t work dc into this stitch, make
ch3 and join with the second-to-last stitch with sl st. There
should be 2-3 free stitches left between two collar sides.
 Fasten off the thread, weave in the thread tail inside of the
27. piece, cut the excess length.

Return to the sleeves. Attach the white thread near the

doll’s underarm, crochet sl st into front loops we have left in
round 35 on the body. Fasten off the thread and cut. Weave
in the thread tails inside of the neck. Crochet along the
sleeve edge on the other arm in the same way.

28. 29. 30.

 31. HEAD
Crochet in skin color
1 round: 6sc in MR (6)
2 round: 6inc (12)
3 round: (1sc, inc)*6 (18)
4 round: (2sc, inc)*6 (24)
5 round: (3sc, inc)*6 (30)
6 round: (2sc, inc, 2sc)*6 (36)
7 round: (5sc, inc)*6 (42)
8 round: (3sc, inc, 3sc)*6 (48)
32. 9 round: (7sc, inc)*6 (54)
10 round: (4sc, inc, 4sc)*6 (60)
11 round: (9sc, inc)*6 (66)
12-28 rounds: 66sc (66) - 17 rounds
Insert the safety eyes between rounds 21 and 22, leaving 13
stitches apart.

29 round: (9sc, dec)*6 (60)

30 round: 60sc (60)
31 round: (4sc, dec, 4sc)*6 (54)
32 round: (7sc, dec)*6 (48)
33.

..3 4..
33 round: (3sc, dec, 3sc)*6 (42)
34 round: (5sc, dec)*6 (36)
Start stuffing the head.
35 round: (2sc, dec, 2sc)*6 (30)

1..6
2 5 36 round: (3sc, dec)*6 (24)
37 round: (2sc, dec)*6 (18)

Cut the thread and fasten off, leaving a long thread tail for sewing.
Add fiberfill.

34. NEEDLE SCULPTING

For needle sculpting use the thread of the same color which was
used for the body. Thread the needle and insert it into point 1 (at
the lower part of the head under the chin). This point is located
between the last and the second-to-last rounds on the head in the
middle. Pull the thread out from point 2 (near the eye), leaving a
thread tail to tie a knot later (photo 34).
 Then insert the needle into point 3, leaving 2 rounds up from
35. point 2, and run it inside of the piece to the point 4 (near the
other eye) (photo 35). Pull the thread. Now insert the needle
into point 5 (leaving 2 rounds down and pull the thread out
from point 6 (point 6 is located leaving one stitch to the left
from point 1).

Pull thread tails carefully, so that the eyes were slightly

pushed into the head fabric.

After this tie the thread tails with 1-2 tigh knots. Thread the
36.
needle with tails and weave them inside of the doll’s head.
Our needle sculpting is finished.

38. 39.

37.

FACE DETAILS
Embroider the nose using the thread of skin color: mark two
40. points between rounds 22 и 23 in the middle of the distance
between the eyes (photo 40), make several horizontal
stitches (photos 41-42). The nose width is 4 stitches. Don’t
hide the thread, we will use it to embroider the eyelids.

Take the white thread and make one stitch near each eye
around the outer part, like in photo 43. Fasten off the thread
and weave in inside of the head.
 Embroider the upper eyelids with the thread which was left
41. after we finished the nose. Pull the thread near the eye as
close as possible in the middle, make a short stitch with the
length of 3-4 stitches, insert the needle, leaving 1 stitch from
the white part somewhere in the middle of the eye. The eyelid
should cover the top edge of the eye slightly and touch the
white stitches. Make one more stitch (photo 44).

42. 43. 44.

You can make one more horizontal stitch above the eye using
45. the same thread to imitate the lower lid, the length of the
stitch equals 4 stitches (photo 46).

Embroider the eyebrows using the thread of terracotta color

and a needle, leaving 2 rounds up from the eyes (photo 45).
One eyebrow is a horizontal stitch with the length of 5
stitches. The distance between two eyebrows equals 9
stitches.

46.
47.
EARS
Now make ears and sew them to the doll’s head. Crochet in
skin color.

The right ear:

Form a MR and crochet from it: ch3, now work all the stitches
into the magic ring: 2dc, 2hdc, 2sc, pull the ring closed, cut the
thread, leaving a tail for sewing.

48. The left ear:

Form a MR and crochet into it mirrored to the right one: 2sc,
2hdc, 2dc, ch3, join with the MR with sl st, cut the thread,
leaving a tail for sewing.

Fix the ears on the head at the eyes level, counting 6-7
stitched from them (photo 47). Sew. Weave in the thread tails
inside of the head.

49. HAIRSTYLE
Crochet in terracotta color in rounds. At first we need to make
a wig, then we will make curls on it.

1 round: 6sc in MR (6)

2 round: 6inc (12)
3 round: (1sc, inc)*6 (18)
4 round: (2sc, inc)*6 (24)
5 round: (3sc, inc)*6 (30)
6 round: (4sc, inc)*6 (36)
50. 7 round: (5sc, inc)*6 (42)
8 round: (6sc, inc)*6 (48)
9 round: (7sc, inc)*6 (54)
10 round: (8sc, inc)*6 (60)
11 round: (9sc, inc)*6 (66)
12-14 rounds: 66sc (66) - 3 rounds
15 round: (5sc, inc, 5sc)*6 (72)
16-18 rounds: 72sc (72) - 3 rounds
 Try the wig on the doll’s head to make sure it suits to its size
51. (photo 51) - there should be 15 rounds left from the nose till
the wig. After this don’t cut the thread and work several
stitches more: 1hdc, 1dc, 1tr, make ch2 and join with the
previous treble crochet with sl st, then crochet 1tr, 1dc, 1hdc,
1sc, sl st (photo 50) - this part will be located in the middle of
the back side on the head.
Cut the thread, leaving a long thread for sewing.

Now we need to mark the hairline. The hairline should go

across the middle of the wig, be guided with the nose, with
52. the magic ring and with the head back. We will crochet the
hair strands along the hairline. Take 5 pins and place them
along the line from the wig edge till the magic ring. Attach the
thread to MR and crochet sc along the line with pins up
towards the face, work one sc to each round. We should get
18sc (photo 54). Now make ch21 and crochet along the chain
from the second ch from the hook:

The first hair strand

1 row: 4sc, 2dec, 12sc, join with the back loop of the stitch on
the hairline with sl st (19) - photo 55.
53.

54. 55.

56.
Turn the work, don’t make ch, skip sl st and crochet along the
hair strand in reverse direction.

2 row: 14sc, don’t crochet till the end and make ch6, turn (14 +
ch6)
3 row: from the 2nd ch from the hook 5sc along the chain, 14sc
along the hair strand, join with the back loop of the next stitch
on the hairline with sl st (20)
 This way we started to crochet the hair strands along
57. the left side of the wig. Try on the head to understand
how it looks like. I fixed the wig on the head with pins
and was crocheting the hair without putting it off the
head. It helped me to understand where the hair
strands will be located.
The second hair strand
1 row: make ch25 and crochet from the second ch from the
hook 6sc, 2dec, 14sc, join with the back loop of the next
stitch on the hairline with sl st (23)
Try the wig on the head and pull the last hair strand towards
the ear. Make sure its length is enough to reach the lower
58. edge of the ear (photo 57).
Turn the work, don’t make ch, skip sl st and crochet along the
hair strand in reverse direction.
2 row: 16sc, sl st, make ch9, turn (17 + ch9)
3 row: from the 2nd ch work 8sc along the chain, skip sl st,
16sc, join with the back loop of the next stitch on the hairline
with sl st (25)
Turn the work, don’t make ch, skip sl st and crochet along the
hair strand in reverse direction.
4 row: 22sc, make ch3, turn (22 + ch3)
5 row: from the 2nd ch work 2sc along the chain, 22sc along
59. the hair strand, join with the back loop of the next stitch on
the hairline with sl st (25)

The third and the fourth hair strands

Crochet in the same way as the second one.

The fifth hair strand

Make ch25 and crochet from the second ch from the hook:
1 row: 24sc, join with the back loop of the next stitch on the
hairline with sl st (25)

Turn the work, don’t make ch, skip sl st and crochet along the hair strand in reverse direction.
2 row: 21sc, sl st, make ch3 (22 + ch3)
3 row: from the 2nd ch from the hook 2sc along the chain, skip sl st, 21sc along the hair strand,
join with the back loop of the next stitch on the hairline with sl st (24)

The sixth hair strand

Make ch24 and crochet from the second ch from the hook:
1 row: 23sc, join with the back loop of the next stitch on the hairline with sl st (24)
Turn the work, don’t make ch, skip sl st and crochet along the hair strand in reverse direction.
2 row: 20sc, sl st, make ch3 (21 + ch3)
3 row: from the 2nd ch 2sc along the chain, skip sl st, 20sc along the hair strand, join with the
back loop of the next stitch on the hairline with sl st (23)

The seventh hair strand

Make ch23 and crochet from the second ch from the hook:
1 row: 22sc, join with the back loop of the next stitch on the hairline with sl st (23)
Turn the work, don’t make ch, skip sl st and crochet along the hair strand in reverse direction.
2 row: 19sc, sl st, make ch3 (20 + ch3)
3 row: from the 2nd ch 2sc along the chain, skip sl st, 19sc along the hair strand, join with the
back loop of the next stitch on the hairline with sl st (22)
At this stage we finished to crochet the hair strands on the left part of the wig. Work sl st into
the last loop of the hairline. Cut the thread.
Start crocheting the hair strands on the right side of the wig. Attach the thread to the first loop
of the chain, where we have crocheted the first hair strand on the left side of the wig. Make
ch21 and crochet from the second ch from the hook (photo 60):

The first hair strand

1 row: 20sc, join with the front loop of the next stitch on the
60. hairline with sl st (21)
Turn the work, don’t make ch, skip sl st and crochet along the
hair strand in reverse direction.
2 row: 19sc, ch2 (19 + ch2)
3 row: from the second ch from the hook 1sc along the chain,
19sc along the hair strand, join with the front loop of the next
stitch on the hairline with sl st (21)

The second hair strand

Make ch25 and crochet from the second ch from the hook:
1 row: 24sc, join with the front loop of the next stitch on the
hairline with sl st (25)
Try the wig on the head and pull the last hair strand towards
61. the ear. Make sure its length is enough to reach the lower edge
of the ear.
Turn the work, don’t make ch, skip sl st and crochet along the
hair strand in reverse direction.
2 row: 19sc, make ch9, turn (19 + ch9)
3 row: from the 2nd ch 8sc along the chain, 19sc along the hair
strand, join with the front loop of the next stitch on the hairline
with sl st (28)
Turn the work, don’t make ch, skip sl st and crochet along the
hair strand in reverse direction.
 4 row: 24sc, ch2, turn (24 + ch2)
5 row: from the second ch 1sc along the chain, 24sc along the
chain, join with the front loop of the next stitch on the hairline
with sl st (26)

The third hair strand

1 row: make ch25 and crochet from the second ch from the
hook 6sc, 2dec, 14sc, join with the front loop of the next stitch
on the hairline with sl st (23)
62. Turn the work, don’t make ch, skip sl st and crochet along the
hair strand in reverse direction.
63.
2 row: 16sc, sl st, make ch9, turn (17 + ch9)
3 row: from the 2nd ch 8sc along the chain, skip sl st, 16sc, join
with the front loop of the next stitch on the hairline with sl st
(25)
Turn the work, don’t make ch, skip sl st and crochet along the
hair strand in reverse direction.
4 row: 22sc, make ch3, turn (22 + ch3)
5 row: from the 2nd ch 2sc along the chain, 22sc along the hair
strand, join with the front loop of the next stitch on the hairline
with sl st (25)
64.
The fourth hair strand
Crochet according to the same pattern we used for the third
hair strand.

The fifth hair strand

Make ch25 and crochet from the second ch from the hook:
1 row: 24sc, join with the front loop of the next stitch on the
hairline with sl st (25)
Turn the work, don’t make ch, skip sl st and crochet along the
65. hair strand in reverse direction.
2 row: 21sc, sl st, make ch3 (22 + ch3)
3 row: from the 2nd ch from the hook 2sc along the chain, skip
sl st, 21sc along the hair strand, join with the front loop of the
next stitch on the hairline with sl st (24)

The sixth hair strand

Make ch24 and crochet from the second ch from the hook:
1 row: 23sc, join with the front loop of the next stitch on the
hairline with sl st (24)
 Turn the work, don’t make ch, skip sl st and crochet along the
66. hair strand in reverse direction.
2 row: 20sc, sl st, make ch3 (21 + ch3)
3 row: from the 2nd ch from the hook 2sc along the chain,
skip sl st, 20sc along the hair strand, join with the front loop
of the next stitch on the hairline with sl st (23)

Spread the hair strands on the wig surface. If they cover all
the piece, then cut the thread. If not, then make one-two hair
strands more according to the pattern of the last one.

After this the work at the wig is finished, cut the thread and
67. fasten off.

Try on the head, put the pins off the hair strands and at first
sew the wig to the head. Pay attention that there should be
15 rounds left between the upper edge of the wig and the
nose. Spread the wig on the head carefully and sew, inserting
the needle under the stitch on the head and under both loops
of the stitches on the wig.

After this make several stitches more somewhere near the

hairline to make the wig to fit closer. Then sew each hair
strand (leave one hair strand on each side on the front),
68. making a couple of stitches on the strand end. It’s not
necessary to sew two hair strands on the front, so that you
are able to make an interesting hairstyle. Sew the second hair
strand in the way that the ear is located between its two
parts.

Weave in all the thread tails inside of the head. The photos
69-71 the result we should get.

69. 70. 71.

72. PAINTING
Now it’s time to paint the face of our wizard.
For this purpose you can use hard pastels, acrylic fabric
paints or makeup. If you are going to use decorative
cosmetics for freckles, then you will need a needle.

Add some red or ginger color to the cheeks, highlight the

eyelids, the area above the nose and the nose sides with
the light brown color.
73.
If you want to make a mouth for your wizard, then you can
paint it with a pink color.

Now paint 5-6 points carefully using a needle and a dark

brown color, imitating the freckles. For this you can use
acrylic paints or a fabric marker.

74.

75.
 ASSEMBLY
All is left to do till our freckled boy is born is
to sew the head.

Put the doll’s head on the body in the way

that the eyes are looking straight. Sew the
head. When sewing insert the needle
between stitches and go over the stitch
body and over the stitch on the neck. Add
fiberfill if needed.

Weave in the thread tail inside of the toy.

76.
Our wizard is ready! Now
we need to make school
clothes, the cloak and the
accessories for him!
 TROUSERS
Use the yarn of dark grey color (Gazzal Baby Cotton). Make
ch59 and crochet from the second ch from the hook. At first
crochet several turning rows for button and buttonhole.

1 row: 58sc, ch, turn (58)

77.
Place the piece we have got around the doll’s waist, its ends
should be located lapped to 1.5 cm.
In the next row we will form a buttonhole.
2 row: 53sc, make ch3, skip 3 stitches, from the 4th stitch
2sc, ch, turn (58)
3 row: 2sc, 3sc along the chain, 53sc, ch, turn (58)
4 row: 58sc, ch, turn (58)
The buttonhole should be located on the left side of the
trousers.

78. 5 row: 12sc, inc, 6sc, inc, 18sc, inc, 6sc, inc, 12sc, ch, turn
(62)
6-7 rows: 62sc, ch, turn (62) - 2 rows
8 row: 12sc, inc, 8sc, inc, 18sc, inc, 8sc, inc, 12sc, ch, turn
(66)
9-18 rows: 66sc, ch, turn (66) - 10 rows
19 row: 66sc, join the work in a circle with sl st into the ch
of the previous row, ch, turn (66)
20-22 rows: 66sc, join with the previous row working sl st
into turning ch, ch, turn (66) - 3 rows

79. In the next row we start to form the first leg:

23 row: 33sc, join with the turning ch with sl st, dividing the
work into two parts.

Now we are going to crochet each leg separately. Make ch

and turn the work (33)
24-53 rows: 33sc, join with the previous row working sl st
into turning ch, ch, turn (33) - 30 rows

80.
 Try the trousers on the doll. If the leg is still short, then work a
couple of rows more.

Cut the thread and fasten off. Weave in the thread tail on the
wrong side of the piece.

Attach the thread to the point where the second leg should be
started, place the first leg on the right side, leave a thread tail
81. for sewing the hole (photo 86). Crochet the second leg in the
same way. If there is a hole left between the legs, then sew it.

82. 83. 84.

85. 86. 87.

 88. Sew the button to the inner side of the trousers, so that it
will be invisible when the trousers are fastened.

Weave in the thread tails on the wrong side of the trousers.

The trousers are finished!

Pay attention! If your doll’s waist

SWEATER
circumference turned out longer The sweater is crocheted in turning rows from the top to
than mine (my wizard has 14 cm the bottom. At first we will make two foreparts, then will
around the top edge of the pants), join them and at the end will crochet around the sweater
then take a 2.5 mm crochet hook.
and will make details for a V-shaped neckline.
And try the clothes as you crochet.
Start crocheting in light grey color. Make ch19 and crochet
from the second ch from the hook:

89. The first forepart

1 row: 16sc, 2inc, ch, turn (20)
2 row: 20sc, ch, turn (20)
3 row: 19sc, inc, ch, turn (21)
4 row: 6sc, 2inc, 4sc, 2inc, 7sc, ch, turn (25)
5 row: 7sc, inc, 10sc, inc, 5sc, inc, ch, turn (28)
6 row: inc, 27sc, ch, turn (29)
7 row: 7sc, inc, 12sc, inc, 8sc (31)
Cut the thread and fasten off.

The second forepart

1 row: 2inc, 16sc, ch, turn (20)
90. 2 row: 20sc, ch, turn (20)
3 row: inc, 19sc, ch, turn (21)
4 row: 7sc, 2inc, 4sc, 2inc, 6sc, ch, turn (25)
5 row: inc, 5sc, inc, 10sc, inc, 7sc, ch, turn (28)
6 row: 27sc, inc, ch, turn (29)
7 row: 8sc, inc, 12sc, inc, 7sc, ch, turn (31)
 Try the forepart on the doll, their size should be like in the
91. photo 91. If the foreparts are small, then you should take a
larger crochet hook.

After we finish row 7 on the second forepart don’t cut the

thread and crochet row 8, joining two parts.

8 row: 31sc along the second forepart, ch3, 31sc along the
first forepart (photo 92), ch, turn (62sts + ch3)

In the next row we will form the sleeves.

92. 9 row: 10sc, make ch6, skip 11 stitches, from the 12th stitch
10sc, 3sc along the chain, 10sc, make ch6, skip 11 stitches,
from the 12th stitch 10sc, ch, turn (55)
10 row: 10sc, 6sc along the chain, 23sc, 6sc along the chain,
10sc, ch, turn (55)
11-19 rows: 55sc, ch, turn (55) - 9 rows
20 row: 5sc, inc, 13sc, inc, 15sc, inc, 13sc, inc, 5sc (59) -
when crocheting the last stitch change the thread color to
golden, make ch and turn the work, cut the grey thread.

21 row: into front loops only 59 sl st, ch, turn (59) - when
93. crocheting the last stitch change the thread color to maroon,
cut the golden thread.
22 row: into front loops only 59sc, ch, turn (59) - when
crocheting the last stitch change the thread color to golden,
cut the maroon thread.
23 row: into both loops of stitches 59 sl st, ch, turn (59) -
when crocheting the last stitch change the thread color to
light grey, cut the golden thread.
24 row: into front loops only 59sc (59)

94. Cut the thread. Now we are going to

crochet sc around the whole piece. Don’t
turn the work, crochet along the wrong
side of the piece, work 3sc into each
corner, crochet 3sc along the chain on
the neckline bottom and work 2sc at the
top corners of the neckline cut (look at
the scheme in photo 95).
 After we finish crocheting around
95.
3sc 2sc 2sc 3sc
the piece, don’t cut the thread and
leave it for the further work.
Weave in all the thread tails on
the wrong side of the piece.

Now attach the thread of golden

color to the corner on the right
forepart (towards you), crochet

3sc 3sc along the neckline, work along the

right side of the piece (photo 96).

96. Crocheting along the neckline:

1 row: crochet sl st into the front loops of stitches, make 2
decreases at the bottom.
When crocheting the last stitch change the thread color to
maroon. Make ch and turn the work. Cut the thread.
2 row: crochet sc into front loops of stitches, making 2
decreases at the neckline bottom. When crocheting the last
stitch change the thread color to golden. Make ch and turn the
work. Cut the maroon thread.
3 row: crochet sl st into front loops of stitches, making 1
97. decrease at the lowest point on the neckline. Cut the thread
and fasten off.

Return to the grey thread, which was left after we finish

crocheting around the sweater, and crochet 2 turning rows
across the forepart edge in sc stitch, finish each row with ch.
After this crochet the next row, forming the buttonholes. I
made ch3 for each buttonhole. And the pattern for this row
looks like this: 4sc, (make ch3, skip 3 stitches, 6sc)*2, make ch3,
skip 3 stitches, 4sc (32). Then crochet 2 turning rows more in sc
98. stitch and cut the thread.

Theh crochet along the edge of the other forepart. Attach the
thread to the forepart bottom and crochet several turning rows
along the right side of the piece for the placket to sew the
buttons. Try the sweater on the doll to decide how many rows
you need to crochet for buttons, to fasten the sweater.
99. I worked 5 turning rows. Place the buttons on the placket and
sew them using the thread of light grey color. Make sure that
the buttons are located exactly opposite to the buttonholes. If
your yarn is too thick for the openings on the buttons, then
divide the strand in half.

Don’t cut the thread and crochet one row of slip stitches along
the neckline into back loops. Then cut the thread, fasten off
and weave in the thread tails on the wrong side of the sweater.

100. Now make sleeves. Attach the thread to the lower side on one
of the sleeve openings and crochet 19sc around: 3sc starting
from the middle of the lower side, 1sc into the corner, 11sc
along the top side, 1sc into the corner, 3sc along the lower side,
sl st into the first stitch. Make ch and turn the work.

2-21 rows: 19sc, sl st into turning ch, turn, ch (19) - 20 rows

Try the sweater on the doll and crochet additional rows if

needed.
Cut the thread and fasten off, weave in the thread tails.
101. Crochet the other sleeve in the same way.

The sweater is ready!

102.
103. CLOAK
The cloak is crocheted in graphite color from top to
bottom. Make ch31, crochet from the second ch from the
hook

1 row: inc, 28sc, inc, ch, turn (32)

2 row: inc, (5sc, inc)*2, 6sc, inc, (5sc, inc)*2, ch, turn (38)
3 row: inc, 7sc, (inc, 6sc)*3, inc, 7sc, inc, ch, turn (44)
4 row: inc, 7sc, (inc, 8sc)*3, inc, 7sc, inc, ch, turn (50)
5 row: 2sc, inc, 44sc, inc, 2sc, ch, turn (52)
6 row: 3sc, inc, (2sc, inc)*4, 23sc, (inc, 2sc)*4, inc, ch, turn
(62)
104.
Put the piece on the doll, it should be located on the
doll’s shoulders like in the photo 103.

7 row: 4sc, inc, 52sc, inc, 4sc, ch, turn (64)

8 row: 5sc, inc, 12sc, inc, 26sc, inc, 12sc, inc, 5sc, ch,
turn (68)
9 row: 6sc, inc, 13sc, inc, 26sc, inc, 13sc, inc, 6sc, ch, turn
(72)
10 row: 7sc, inc, 14sc, inc, 26sc, inc, 14sc, inc, 7sc, ch,
turn (76)
11 row: 76sc, ch, turn (76)
105. 12 row: 8sc, make ch9, skip 16 stitches, from the 17th
stitch 28sc, make ch9, skip 16 stitches, from the 17th
stitch 8sc, ch, turn (62)
13 row: 8sc, 9sc along the chain, 28sc, 9sc along the
chain, 8sc, ch, turn (62)
14-28 rows: 62sc, ch, turn (62) - 15 rows
29 row: 14sc, inc, 32sc, inc, 14sc, ch, turn (64)
30-34 rows: 64sc, ch, turn (64) - 5 rows
35 row: 15sc, inc, 32sc, inc, 15sc, ch, turn (66)
36-40 rows: 66sc, ch, turn (66) - 5 rows
41 row: 16sc, inc, 32sc, inc, 16sc, ch, turn (68)
42-46 rows: 68sc, ch, turn (68) - 5 rows
47 row: 17sc, inc, 32sc, inc, 17sc, ch, turn (70)
48-50 rows: 70sc, ch, turn (70) - 3 rows
 Don’t cut the thread and make ch, then crochet sc along
106. the first forepart, then along the neckline and along the
second forepart. After this cut the thread and fasten off.
Weave in the thread tail.

Sleeves
Attach the thread to the middle of the lower side on the
sleeve opening and make ch, then crochet 27sc around
the sleeve along the wrong side: 4sc starting from the
middle of the lower edge, 1sc into the corner, 16sc along
the top
edge, 1sc into the corner, 5sc along the bottom, sl st into
the first loop. Make ch and turn the work.

107. 2-19 rows: 27sc, sl st into turning ch, turn, ch (27) - 18

rows
Try the cloak on the doll. If the sleeves are too short, then
work a couple of rows more.
After row 19 cut the thread and fasten off. Weave in the
thread tail on the wrong side of the piece.
Crochet the second sleeve in the same way.
Hood
Crochet in graphite color in turning rows. Make ch27,
leaving a long thread tail for sewing, work from the second
ch from the hook:

1 row: 26sc, ch, turn (26)

2 row: inc, 24sc, inc, ch, turn (28)
3 row: 28sc, ch, turn (28)

4 row: inc, 26sc, inc, ch, turn (30)

108. 5 row: 30sc, ch, turn (30)
6 row: inc, 28sc, inc, ch, turn (32)
7 row: 32sc, ch, turn (32)
8 row: inc, 30sc, inc, ch, turn (34)
9 row: 34sc, ch, turn (34)
10 row: inc, 32sc, inc, ch, turn (36)
 11 row: 36sc, ch, turn (36)
12 row: inc, 34sc, inc, ch, turn (38)
13 row: 38sc, ch, turn (38)
14 row: inc, 36sc, inc, ch, turn (40)
15 row: 40sc, ch, turn (40)
16 row: inc, 38sc, inc, ch, turn (42)
17 row: 42sc, ch, turn (42)
18 row: inc, 40sc, inc (44)
109.
Cut the thread and fasten off, leaving a long thread tail for
sewing.

Fold the piece in half and sew along the longest side
(highlighted with an arrow in photo 109). Fasten off the
thread and weave in the thread tail on the wrong side of the
piece.

Sew the hood to the cloak to the stitches we crocheted

around the cloak, having placed it in the middle of the back
110.
side. Fasten off the thread and weave in the thread tails on
the wrong side of the piece.

The cloak is finished!

111.

112.
113. NECKTIE
Crochet in maroon color. Form MR and crochet from it: ch1
(photo 113), then crochet according to the pattern:

1 row: 1sc in MR, pull the ring, ch, turn (1)

2 row: 3sc into 1 stitch, ch, turn (3)
3 row: 3inc, don’t make ch, turn (6)
4 row: from the second stitch from the hook 1 sl st, 3sc, 1 sl
st, don’t make ch, turn (5)
5 row: from the second stitch from the hook 3sc, 1 sl st, ch,
turn (4)
6 row: from the second stitch from the hook 3sc, ch, turn
114. (3)
7-9 rows: 3sc, ch, turn (3) - 3 rows
10 row: dec, 1sc, ch, turn (2)
11-12 rows: 2sc, ch, turn (2) - 2 rows

Make ch40 and crochet from the second ch from the hook
39sc, join with sl st with the free loop on the main piece.

To make golden lines on the necktie take the yarn of golden

color and divide the yarn piece into separate threads.
Embroider diagonal stripes with two threads. I embroidered
the stripes in the way that some of them are wider and the
other ones are thinner. Weave in the thread tails.

The necktie is ready!

115.
116.
SCARF
Crochet in maroon and golden color, use 2.5 mm
crochet hook. Start crocheting with the yarn of
maroon color.

Make ch7 and crochet from the second ch from the

hook:

1-6 rows: 6sc, ch, turn (6) - 6 rounds - when working

117.. the last stitch change the thread color to golden,
don’t cut the thread of maroon color.

7-8 rows: 6sc, ch, turn (6) - 2 rounds - when working

the last stitch change the thread color to maroon,
don’t cut the thread of golden color.

9-10 rows: 6sc, ch, turn (6) - 2 rounds - when

working the last stitch change the thread color to
golden, don’t cut the thread of maroon color.
118.
11-12 rows: 6sc, ch, turn (6) - 2 rounds - when
working the last stitch change the thread color to
maroon, cut the thread of golden color.

Repeat from the 1st to the 12th rows 8 times more.

Then crochet 6 rows more in maroon color, cut the
thread and fasten off.

Now be patient and weave in all the thread tails

inside of the stitches using a needle (photo 118).
119.
120.
CHESS
Pawn
Crochet in white color.
The main piece.
1 round: 8sc in MR (8)
2 round: 8inc (16)
3 round: (1sc, inc)*8 (24)
4 round: (1sc, inc, 1sc)*8 (32)
5 round: (3sc, inc)*8 (40)

121. Put the piece to the cardboard and draw an outline around
it, cut the circle. Trim about a couple of mm from the edge.
We will insert this piece into the pawn bottom.

6 round: into back loops only (3sc, dec)*8 (32)

Insert the cardboard piece.
7 round: into back loops only (2sc, dec)*8 (24)
8 round: 24sc (24)
9 round: (1sc, dec)*8 (16)

Start stuffing.
122.
10 round: 16sc (16)
11 round: 8dec (8)
12-14 rounds: 8sc (8) - 3 rounds

Work sl st into the next stitch, make ch and turn. Crochet in

the reverse direction (photo 121):

15 round: skip ch, into back loops only (inc, 1sc)*4, sl st into
the turning ch (12)
Cut the thread and fasten off.
123.
Ball
1 round: 6sc in MR (6)
2 round: 6inc (12)
3-4 rounds: 12sc (12) - 2 rounds
Add some fiberfill.
5 round: 6dec (6)
 Cut the thread and pull the opening closed, running the thread
124. through the front loops of stitches, leave the thread tail for
sewing.

Sew the ball to the main piece through the front back loops
carefully.

The Knight
Bottom
1 round: 8sc in MR (8)
2 round: 8inc (16)
3 round: (1sc, inc)*8 (24)
4 round: (1sc, inc, 1sc)*8 (32)
5 round: (3sc, inc)*8 (40)

Put the piece to the cardboard and draw an outline around it,
cut the circle. Trim about a couple of mm from the edge. We
will insert this piece into the bottom.

6 round: into back loops only (3sc, dec)*8 (32)

Insert the cardboard piece.
7-8 rounds: 32sc (32) - 2 rounds
125. 9 round: (2sc, dec)*8 (24)
10 round: (1sc, dec)*8 (16)

Start stuffing.
11 round: 8dec (8)

Cut the thread and fasten off. Pull the opening closed, pulling
the thread through the front loops of stitches using a needle,
weave in the thread tail inside of the piece (photo 125).

Main piece.
126. 1 round: 6sc in MR (6)
2 round: 6inc (12)
3 round: (1sc, inc)*6 (18)
4 round: 18sc (18)

Now divide the work into two parts. Make ch3 and skip 7
stitches, work 1sc into the 8th stitch and place marker. Now
we will crochet the Knight body around the larger circle
(photo 126).
127. 5 round: 10sc along the piece, 3sc along the chain, 1sc along
the piece (14)

In the next rounds we will increase in the middle of the part

under the chain and we will decrease in the middle of the
back part.

6 round: 2sc, 2dec, 4sc, 2inc, 2sc (14)

7 round: 2sc, dec, 5sc, 2inc, 3sc (15)
8 round: 15sc (15)
9 round: 3sc, dec, 5sc, 2inc, 3sc (16)
128. 10 round: 2sc, 2inc, 5sc, 2dec, 3sc (16)
11-12 rounds: 16sc (16) - 2 rounds

Finish crocheting with sl st. Cut the thread, leaving a tail for
sewing.

Crochet the muzzle. Attach the thread to the side and

crochet along the chain:

1 round: 1sc, inc, 1sc, 1sc between the round, 7sc along the
upper edge, 1sc between the rounds (13)
129. 2 round: 13sc (13)
3 round: 1sc, 2inc, 1sc, 4dec, 1sc (11)
4 round: 5sc, dec, 2sc, dec (9)
5 round: 5sc, 2dec (7)

Cut the thread and fasten off. Pull the opening closed,
pulling the thread through the front loops of stitches using a
needle, weave in the thread tail inside of the piece. Stuff the
body slightly and sew the Knight to the bottom.

130.

e c h e s s is r e a d y ! But
Th c hess
n o w h e n e e d s a
board!
 131. CHESSBOARD
Start crocheting with the yarn of beige color. We will
crochet with two colors, alternating beige and black color.
Pay attention, that the first row is the right side row. All
the thread bars should stay only on the wrong side of the
piece.

Pay attention: we change color when crocheting the last

stitch of the previous row in a special way. Insert the crochet
hook into the last stitch, pull the thread of the color we were
132. working with. Now take the thread of a new color, pull it
through two loops on the hook. We have finished the stitch
and have changed the color. Now we are going to work the
next stitch with the new color.

Also very important: don’t pull the thread too tight, the
fabric shouldn’t be overtightened and distorted! You can pull
the piece edges from time to time to control the thread
tension.
Make ch25 and crochet from the second ch from the hook.
1 row: (3sc (Beige), 3sc (Black))*4, don’t change the color,
ch, turn (24)

о « К а к с м е н и т ь
Виде
цвет нити»
When you will crochet the next row and each wrong side
row leave both threads in front of the work when changing
the color.

2 row: (3sc (Black), 3sc (Beige))*4, don’t change the color,

ch, turn (24)
3 row (3sc (Beige), 3sc (Black))*4, change color to beige,
ch, turn (24)
133. 4 row: (3sc (Beige), 3sc (Black))*4, don’t change the color,
ch, turn (24)
5 row: (3sc (Black), 3sc (Beige))*4, don’t cut the thread, ch,
turn (24)
6 row: (3sc (Beige), 3sc (Black))*4, change color to beige,
ch, turn (24)

Repeat rows from 1 to 6 one more time.

134. Don’t cut the thread after finishing and don’t turn the work.
Now we are going to work along the wrong side of the piece.
The black thread can be cut. Put the piece on the thick
cardboard and draw an outline around. Cut carefully. Make
two identical pieces.

Crochet sc around all four sides, working 3sc into each

corner. After this crochet one round more into front loops
only without turning the work.

At this stage we finish the work at the first side of the

135. chessboard. Cut the thread and fasten off. Crochet the other
side of the chessboard in the same way, then crochet one
round of sc and then one round into front loops only. Don’t
cut the thread.

Now we are going to join both parts, placing the cardboard

pieces between them. Crochet one round of slip stitches,
inserting the hook into front loops of both pieces, joining
the chessboard parts. Cut the thread and fasten off, weave
in all the thread tails inside.

136.

h e c h e s s b o a r d
T
is finished!

137.
138. 139.
Congratulations! Our wizard is finished! He
is looking forward to
incredible adventures in the company of
best friends!✨
 I hope you enjoyed making this wizard with me! ☺️I will be very grateful if you
leave me a feedback on Etsy. Please tag me @fox_and_dog as the designer of the
pattern when publishing photos of your wonderful dolls.

And there are my witch, her friend, the good elf, and a cute forester. You may
probably love them too✨

The free pattern for the Golden Snitch and for the
Broomstick can be found in the feed of my
Instagram account.

Just tap on this icon

to find them.
CONTACT ME IN ANY CONVENIENT WAY. MY STORES:
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Olga Krylova Fox_and_dog

@fox_and_dog
Page: Fox&Dog - Crochet World
email: olechkaartemjeva@gmail.com
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