Necklines :

The necklines is the top edge of a garment that surrounds the neck, especially from
the front view. Neckline also refers to the overall line between all the layers of
clothing and the neck and shoulders of a person. For each garment worn above the
waist, the neckline is primarily a style line and may be a boundary for further shaping
of the upper edge of a garment with, for example, a collar, cowl, darts, or pleats. In
that respect it is similar to the waistline and hemline.
Types of basic necklines
Waistline:
Different waistline styles in women dressing is known to enhance the positive
features of a particular body type which will make for an elegant look in you.
You can wear dresses for informal as well as formal events and hence you
need to select the right choice to look at the topmost of the beauties present
in the party.
The Hemline Index
It has been said that you can tell the state of the economy by judging hemline
lengths. Back in 1926, economist George Taylor made an observation that the stock
market's future could be predicted by the way women dress--or more specifically by
the length of their hemlines.
Collars
A collar is the part of a shirt, dress, coat or blouse that fastens around or frames the
neck. It is being made from a separate piece of fabric, rather than a folded or cut part
of the same piece of fabric used for the main body of the garment.
Description:
i) Stand:- The stand is the part that fits close to the back of neck.
ii) Fall:- Fall is the part of stand which turns over on front part of bodice.
iii) Break-line:- The break-line is the line on which lapels and fall turn back over
the stand. The inner edges of the collar is break- line.
iv) Style-line:- The style-line is the shape of the outer edges of the collar, it may
vary. The collars can be divided into four categories and can be of various
shapes and styles:
1. Flat Collars:- It is attached to the neckline to lay flat against the garment,
Peter Pan is a good example of this type of collars.
2. Stand Collars:- Stand collar extends above the neckline of the garment, the
height of the collar will depend on the design. Chinese collar is good example
of this type of collar. 3. Roll Collars:-This type of collar covers the neck by
either full or half or by three forth. Polo collar is a good example of this type of
collar. 4. Draped Collars:- Draped collars overlaps against the garment or
covers the front portion, Ripple collar is very good example of this type of
collar.
Cuffs
A cuff is a layer of fabric at the lower edge of the sleeve of a garment (shirt, coat,
jacket, etc.) at the wrist, or at the ankle end of a trouser leg. The function of turned-
back cuffs is to protect the cloth of the garment from fraying, and, when frayed, to
allow the cuffs to be readily repaired or replaced, without changing the garment.
Cuffs are made by turning back (folding) the material, or a separate band of material
can be sewn on, or worn separately, attached either by buttons or studs. A cuff may
display an ornamental border or have lace or some other trimming. In US usage, the
word trouser cuffs refers to the folded, finished bottoms of the legs of a pair of
trousers.
Shirt cuffs Except on casual attire, shirt cuffs are generally divided down one edge
and then fastened together, so they can let a hand through and then fit more snugly
around the wrist. Some sweaters and athletic garments (both tops and pants) have
cuffs that either contain elastic or are woven so as to stretch around a hand or foot
and still fit snugly, accomplishing the same purpose.

Shirt Cuffs
Divided shirt cuffs are of three kinds, depending on how they fasten:
 Button cuffs, also called barrel cuffs, have buttonholes on the one side and buttons
on the other (sometimes more than one, so that the fit can be adjusted).

Neapolitan Cuffs.
 Link cuffs, which have buttonholes on both sides and are meant to be closed with
cufflinks or silk knots. They are most commonly fastened in either the overlapping .
Program style, where the insides of both sides are pressed together, or very
unusually with the outer face touching the inner face, as with a button cuff (though
this is unorthodox).
Designer Cuffs Sleeves are finished either with a simple hem or with a cuffs. Many
design effects may be achieved with trimmings, pleating, tucks, gathers and shirring.
Types of Cuffs
Sleeves
Definition: - The part of garment which covers the arm and which is attached to the
armhole or directly to the neck is called sleeve. It is classified into three types - Set
in, Raglan and Cut in one piece based on attachment type. Set in sleeves are sewn
to the bodice armholes. All set in type sleeves must be eased, gathered, darted, or
tucked and sewn into the bodice armscye seam.
1 Set-in sleeves:- The sleeves which are attached to the armhole are set-in sleeves,
there are several types of set-in sleeves.
Pockets
A pocket is a bag or envelope which an opening or slot with a closed end that is
usually sewn in or over the garment. Different Types of Pockets: Patch Pocket: Patch
pockets can be lined or unlined, and can be made in any shape desired. This
pockets can be cut in the desired shape and are fastened to the outside of the
garment.
Patch pockets In-seam pocket: A pocket in which the opening falls along a seam
line of the garment is known as an ‘in-seam pocket’. This type of pocket can be
found in pants, skirts, trousers, shorts, kids’ wear, kurtas and pyjamas. In-seam
pocket
Slash pocket: Slash pockets lie inside the garment and the pocket opening is a
slash of some type. The slash pocket is subdivided into three types, namely, bound,
welt and flap. When each edge of the slash is finished with binding of even width, it
is termed a bound pocket. If one end of the pocket is wider, called the welt, and
extends over the pocket opening, it becomes a slash pocket. The flap pocket is
provided with a flap of extension turned down over the opening.
Frills (Ruffles) & Flounces
A ruffle, frill, or furbelow is a strip of fabric, lace or ribbon tightly gathered or pleated
on one edge and applied to a garment, bedding, or other textile as a form of
trimming.
The term flounce is a particular type of fabric manipulation that creates a similar look
but with less bulk. A wavy effect is achieved without gathers or pleats by cutting a
curved strip of fabric and applying the inner or shorter edge to the garment.

Ruffles and Flounces

Shirring
Shirring is two or more rows of gathers that are used to decorate parts of garments,
usually the sleeves, bodice or yoke. The term is also sometimes used to refer to the
pleats seen in stage curtains.
Draping

Introduction to Draping

Every fashion designer should have detailed knowledge of the processes and
different techniques of garment designing because it helps in final construction of the
garment for required purpose and also make the construction process more
practical. Knowledge of some basic processes of drafting is necessary in
construction of a garment.

Garment designing by Pattern making, drafting and draping is both an art and a
science because it requires the creativity of the designer as well as technical
expertise for making patterns for garments. One can express his creativity and
knowledge by designing garments through drafting or flat pattern or by draping.

Fabrics used for draping:

Fabrics and clothes must relate to our lifestyles and our active lifestyles are made of
many different fabrics such as stretchy knitted fabrics, chiffon, georgette,
organza, sheer cottons, voile, and light weight silk fabrics are most suitable for
fashion draping purpose. Drape ability plays an important role in making
sophisticated draped garments. Mostly, very light weight to medium weight fabric is
suitable for draped garments.
Garments made of woven goods are usually draped in muslin or an inexpensive
fabric where the grain and cross grain are quite visible .The quality and hand of the
muslin should represent the texture and characteristics of the actual fabric used for
the garment design. Soft muslin will simulate the draping quality of natural or
synthetic silk, and knitted cloth.

Medium-weight muslin will simulate the draping quality of wool and medium-weight
cottons. Coarse muslin will simulate the draping quality of heavy weight wool and
cottons. Also, canvas muslin will simulate the draping qualities of heavy weight
fabrics such as denim or imitation fur.

Consider the large collection of fabrics available before beginning any draping steps.
The fabric selected for a garment drape greatly influences the finished look. Analyze
and understand the structure and characteristics of the fabric to create the proper
ease, hand feel and balance of the garment or pattern drape. Approach each design
with a positive attitude and a clear fashion sense.

Garments made of knitted fabrics should be draped in less expensive knit fabric.
However, the sample knit should have the same stretch value as in the fabric
selected for the finished garment. The right side of the front dress form is used to
drape the front basic pattern or garment. This procedure may vary, however, this is
the standard rule when fitting and draping any type of garment. In simple words,
draping technique means the way a fabric hangs in a dress form as well as on the
human body.

Term and Definition

1) Apex : The point of a dart. Also called vanishing point in draping

2) Arm plate - Metal plate on the sides of a dress form indicating the armholes.
The screw in the center is a reference for the midpoint of the armhole.
3) Bias - The 45-degree angle between the length and cross grain, which has a
degree of stretch

4) Blocking- Pulling or stretching the muslin to pro dace a perfectly

perpendicular cross grain to the length grain. The corners of the blocked
muslin should be right angles.

5) Bodice- The portion of the garment generally from the shoulder to the waist.
6) Bust line The line or measurement around the fullest part of the bust
7) Bust point -The fullest part of the bust on the dress form. Also called apex.
8) Cross grain -The warp thread, filler thread, and the weaker thread running
across the fabric or muslin.
9) Cross marks- Markings along seam lines and pats term intersections used
for matching garment parts.
10)Circumference -Distance measured around a specific part of the body.
11)Croquis – Non posed, realistically proportioned figure sketch used to
reference garment construction detail and design shapes. Also called flat
figure.
12)Dart - Pinned out portion of fabric to eliminate excess fullness for a closer fit
or improved drape of the garment. It consists of two dart "legs" that converge
to a point or apex and is stitched closed.
13)Draping- A three-dimensional method of develop ing a pattern by applying
and fitting muslin on a dress form.
14)Drafting -A two-dimensional method of develop ing a prototype by drawing a
pattern based on measurements.
15)Dress form- Life-size figure molded to a specific set of measurements used
for draping and fitting. Its padded surface allows for pinning to the form .
16)Ease- Extra fabric allowed for ease of movement, eg, across the shoulders,
around the hip.
17)Facing -A fabric piece on the inside of the garment that conceals the seam
allowances and renders a clean finish, e.g., neckline and sleeveless armhole
facings.
18)Flat- Technical sketch or diagram used to illustrate a garment in two
dimensions Flats illustrate all seam, dart, design detail, and style lines clearly

19) Flexible ruler- Ax 24" measuring tool that can bend and be shaped to any
curve configuration.
20)Gathering -Pulling the threads of stitched lines to control fullness and shrink
the length of a seam .
21) Grain Line - the horizontal (Width)and vertical(length) direction of the threads
in woven fabric. The length grain is stronger and runs parallel to the selvage.
Generally, the garment's center front and back are cut on the length grain line.
The cross grain is weaker and runs perpendicular to the length grain. In a
woven fabric, it possesses a slight stretch
22) Hip line - A line, parallel to the floor, that indicates the fullest measurement
below the waist, usually to 9 down from the waist.
23)Hip curve - ruler used to draw the curve from the hip to the waistline
24)Jog- The line that is obtained when a dart is closed and a tracing wheel is run
along the seam line where the wide end of the dart meets the seam line When
the dart is opened out, the jog line appears at the "mouth" of the dart
25)Kick pleat -Opening at the hem of a straight and narrow skirt for ease in
movement.
26)Length grain- The weft threads, which run parallel to the selvage in a woven
fabric, they are stronger
27)than the warp threads
28)Muslin- An off white, woven fabric used for draping, creating, and testing
patterns and for fittings
29)Neck band- The metal band at the top of the dress form. The point from
which to measure to obtain lengths for muslins used for draping bodices,
dresses, etc.
30)Notches Pattern indicators that aid in the matching of scams Double notches
are used on back pat terms to differentiate the front from the back.
31)Oak tag- "Hard" pattern paper used for slopers. It is green on its underside.
32)Parallel- Running in the same direction as a given line or reference.
33)Perpendicular -At a 90-degree angle to a grain line, seam line, etc.
34)Princess seams- Seams that divide the space between the center bodyline
and the side seam. In the front they generally run through the bust point.
Seams are used for a closer fit in place of darts.
 35)Seam allowance- The margin that runs around the edges of the pattern. It is
the extra fabric allowed in order to sew garment pattern pieces together.
36)Selvage -The finished edge of the fabric running
37)along the length of the woven fabric.
38)Slash -The method used to introduce fullness into an area of a pattern. When
the pattern is slashed, the segments are spread a specified amount. A slash
line leads to a dart point or opposite seam line

39)Sloper -The master pattern obtained through draping or drafting methods;

produced in "hard" paper without seam allowance to facilitate easier
manipulation and outlining. Used to create style variations.

40) Specs- Measurements at specified points on a garment.

41) Thread tracing -Lines indicated with a hand stitch that are made visible on
both sides of the f abric.
42)Tracing wheel- A tool used to transfer pattern lines to muslin or paper Used
with carbon paper.
43) Trucing Drawing in seam lines once the muslin is marked and taken off the
dress form.
44)Tucks - Fullness of the fabric controlled by folds rather than darts. They are
generally stitched for a short distance and then released.
45)Twill tape 4 woven cotton tape used to indicate style lines on the dress form
and muslin.
46)Waistline -The narrow area of the torso marked with white twill tape on the
dress form. It is the dividing line between the bodice and the skirt
47)Whipstitch -A small right to left hand stitch ,worked from the night side of the
garment, which joins two pieces of fabric together and forms a row of diagonal
stitches.

Introduction to Tools and Supplies required for draping

Muslin Fabric There are three type of muslin fabric

A coarse weave of medium weight used by beginners because the grain is easily
recognized
A light weight finely woven fabric used for soft draping
A heavy weight, firmly woven fabric used for draping tailored garments. This is also
known as toile muslin

Pinning and sewing

 Pins #17 dressmaker
 Hand sewing needle
 Cotton thread
 Dressmaker scissor
 Pin cushion
 Twill Tape-1/4 ‘’wide

Measuring tools

 Measuring tape
 L square Ruler
 2 “x 18” clear plastics ruler
 French curve
 Hip curve

Markings

Pencil

Tracing wheel

Fabric eraser

Work surface

Table top-Cutting Surface

 Pressing Equipment

Steam iron

Ironing Board

Sleeve Board

Sleeve roll

Press cloth

Dress form with sizes like US8, US10, US12 can be chosen according to the
requirement

Principles of Draping

i. Always use grain lines.

ii. Straight grain should always run perpendicular to the floor and cross grain
parallel to the floor.
iii. The body lines such as bust line, waistline, hipline etc should be parallel to
the floor
iv. Use good quality pins that do not loose shape easily.
v. Establish seam lines on the form
vi. Tear the muslin piece instead of cutting
vii. Check the balance of the warp and weft
viii. Mark grain line on muslin; mark cross grain at the fullest part of the dress
form
ix. Place the muslin on the form as per the marked lines, place it in position
with pins
x. Pin the fabric to the form at the seams.
xi. Never pull the fabric and distort the grain
xii. Darts, pleats, tucks etc need to be pinned
xiii. Drape all pieces of the garment
xiv. Mark all lines clearly
xv. Mark curved seams with small dots at frequent intervals.
xvi. Mark darts, pleats and tucks where they cross seam lines with a X mark
 Mannequin marking terms

1. SH-shoulder line
2. NB-neck band
3. Armhole/Armscye
4. PL-princess line
5. Apex/BP-bust point
6. BL-bust line
7. CF-center front
8. SS-side seam
9. WL-waistline
10. HBL-Horizontal balance line
11.Apex: the highest point of the bust and a reference point for establishing the
cross grain for the front bodice
12.Center Front: vertical line that marks the middle front of the garment
13.Center back: vertical line that marks the middle back of a garment