Tiramisù Frangipane BAKERS & MAKERS

CELEBRATING BLACK
Thumbprint Cookies

FROM SCRATCH ®

56 SWEET AND SAVORY

RECIPES TO WARM
UP WINTER
The Best Peanut-Packed Recipes
[ Peanut Meringue Cake, Brown
Sugar-Peanut Pie, and More ]

Baking
Possible:
44 Baking
Solutions
& Hacks PEANUT
CAKE
PERFECTION
WITH
TODAY’S
AL ROKER
page 27

#thebakefeed
JAN/FEB 2021 VOLUME 7, ISSUE 1

$12.99US $15.99CAN
02

The Better Way to Beignet: Our Step-by-Step Guide 0 74470 01695 3

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table of contents

15 Hot from the Oven: Products We’re Crushing On

From aromatic spice blends to hand-forged
29 Baker Profile: The Sweetest Heritage
Jocelyn Delk Adams of Grandbaby Cakes
knives, discover some of the finest baking shares how she built an empire on her precious
products made by Black artisans inheritance from her grandmother: the joy of
baking

17 Baker Spotlight: Bakers Against Racism

Meet three incredible bakers who are helping 35 THE ESSENTIAL . . . BEIGNETS
make the world a sweeter, better place with Learn to master the classic Creole pastry with
bake sales for Bakers Against Racism our deep-dive guide to cutting, frying, and filling
the beautiful beignet

19 From the Pantry: Peanuts

Gain insight into the many incarnations and
varieties of the peanut, the baker’s pantry 45 NUTS ABOUT PEANUTS
Whether they’re salted and roasted or ground
favorite for more than a century
to a fine powder, we use the versatile ingredient
to add nutty richness to biscuits, meringue cake,
25 Retro Redo: Peanut Butter Cake
We share the tale behind TODAY star Al Roker’s
pie, and cornbread

favorite peanut butter-packed cake and offer a

stunning take on the storied original 57 ZEST OF LIFE
We’re unlocking the potent power of citrus zest,
from a Campari and grapefruit mousse cake to a
candied orange-studded brownie cookie
3 bake from scratch
65 BAKING POSSIBLE 95 BAKERS, MAKERS, MOVERS & SHAKERS
YOU NEED TO KNOW
Whether you’ve run out of an ingredient or lack
Get to know the Black business owners, bakers,
special equipment, our substitutions and baking
and artisans who are revolutionizing the diverse
hacks will show you nothing is impossible for the
world of baking
determined baker

75 FALLING FOR FRANGIPANE 107 Origin of a Classic: Benne Wafers

We trace the history and heritage behind the
Creamy, almond-rich frangipane has the Lowcountry’s benne wafer and share a recipe
starring role in mini galettes des rois, tiramisu that honors its Gullah-Geechee roots
thumbprint cookies, and more

85 BAKE BETTER BROWNIES 111 Fast-Fix Baking: Cinnamon-Sugar Doughnut

Bites
Find your ideal recipe for the iconic baked good Satisfy doughnut cravings in a flash with this
and explore the realm of cakey, fudgy, cream baked take on the sugared and spiced favorite
cheese-swirled, and frosted brownies

113 Talk to Trish: Trish on Deck

Our baking and pastry editor, Tricia Manzanero,
takes on your big baking questions, from tips on
dough to oven temperature intel

january | february 2021 4

 ADVERTISING

+166)576;?1:4-,*)6)6)47).
This is banana bread like you’ve never seen it. Fantastically fluffy with a boost from Platinum® Yeast from Red Star®,
this lofty loaf bread receives a hearty addition of whole wheat flour and a touch of sweetness from mashed banana,
both of which are complemented by a warm cinnamon-sugar swirl.

Makes 1 (8½x4½-inch) loaf 1½ teaspoons (4.5 grams) kosher salt 2. Add ½ cup (64 grams) bread flour and
¾ cup (180 grams) warm water banana to dough. Switch to the dough
2 cups (255 grams) bread flour, divided (120°F/49°C to 130°F/54°C) hook attachment. Beat at low speed until
1⅔ cups (207 grams) stone-ground whole 2 tablespoons (28 grams) plus dough is smooth, elastic, and slightly tacky,
wheat flour 2 teaspoons (10 grams) unsalted 10 to 12 minutes; add up to remaining
1 (0.25-ounce) package (7 grams) butter, melted and divided ¼ cup (32 grams) bread flour, 1 tablespoon
Platinum Yeast 2 tablespoons (42 grams) honey (8 grams) at a time, if dough is too sticky.
½ cup (114 grams) mashed ripe banana* Shape dough into a smooth ball.
¼ cup (50 grams) granulated sugar 3. Lightly oil a large bowl. Place dough
1½ teaspoons (3 grams) ground cinnamon in bowl, turning to grease top. Cover
1 large egg (50 grams) and let rise in a warm, draft-free place
1 tablespoon (15 grams) water (75°F/24°C) until doubled in size, 30 to
45 minutes.
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk 4. Spray an 8½x4½-inch loaf pan with
together 1¼ cups (159 grams) bread flour, cooking spray. Line pan with parchment
whole wheat flour, yeast, and salt by hand. paper, letting excess extend over sides of
Add ¾ cup (180 grams) warm water, pan.
2 tablespoons (28 grams) melted butter, 5. In a small bowl, stir together sugar and
and honey; using the paddle attachment, cinnamon.
beat at low speed until dough comes 6. Punch down dough, and let stand for
together. Cover and let stand for 15 minutes. 10 to 15 minutes. On a lightly floured
surface, roll dough into a 16x7½-inch
rectangle. Brush with remaining 2 teaspoons
(10 grams) melted butter, leaving a ¼-inch
border on one short side. Sprinkle with
cinnamon sugar. Starting at short side
opposite border, roll up dough, jelly roll
style; pinch seam to seal. Place, seam side
down, in prepared pan. Cover and let rise in
a warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until
doubled in size, 15 to 20 minutes.
7. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).
8. In a small bowl, whisk together egg and
1 tablespoon (15 grams) water. Using a
pastry brush, gently brush top of dough
with egg wash.
9. Bake until an instant-read thermometer
inserted in center registers 200°F (93°C)
to 205°F (96°C), 45 to 50 minutes,
covering with foil to prevent excess
browning, if necessary. Let cool in pan for
10 minutes. Remove from pan, and let cool
completely on a wire rack.

*If using bananas from the freezer, make sure

they are room temperature before adding to
dough.
 FROM SCRATCH
january | february 2021 Volume 7, Issue 1

EDITORIAL
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Brian Hart Hoffman

MANAGING EDITOR Kyle Grace Mills GROUP CREATIVE DIRECTOR

BAKING AND PASTRY EDITOR Tricia Manzanero Deanna Rippy Gardner
ASSISTANT EDITOR Sandi Shriver
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Alex Kolar SENIOR ST YLIST Sidney Bragiel
SENIOR COPY EDITOR Rhonda Lee Lother ST YLISTS
COPY EDITOR Meg Lundberg Courtni Bodiford, Lucy Finney, Mary Beth Jones,
Lily Simpson, Melissa Sturdivant Smith,
CREATIVE DIRECTOR/PHOTOGRAPHY Dorothy Walton
Mac Jamieson
SENIOR PHOTOGRAPHER TEST KITCHEN DIRECTOR Irene Yeh
John O’Hagan FOOD ST YLISTS/RECIPE DEVELOPERS
PHOTOGRAPHERS Laura Crandall, J.R. Jacobson, Kathleen Kanen,
Jim Bathie, William Dickey, Megan Lankford, Vanessa Rocchio,
Stephanie Welbourne Steele Taylor Franklin Wann
CONTRIBUTING RECIPE DEVELOPERS
SENIOR DIGITAL IMAGING SPECIALIST
Jocelyn Delk Adams, Toni Tipton-Martin
Delisa McDaniel
TEST KITCHEN ASSISTANT Leah Rasbury
DIGITAL IMAGING SPECIALIST Clark Densmore

D I G I TA L M E D I A A D M I N I S T R AT I V E
MARKETING DIRECTOR Kristy Harrison HUMAN RESOURCES DIRECTOR
MARKETING COORDINATOR Hannah Crowe Judy Brown Lazenby
SENIOR ONLINE EDITOR Courtney duQuesnay IT DIRECTOR Matthew Scott Holt
DIGITAL DESIGNER Stephanie Lambert DEALER PROGRAM MANAGER Janice Ritter
ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT/EDITORIAL Alex Kolar

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Kevin Masse [CA, CT, MA, ME, NH, NY, OR, RI, VT] For assistance with advertising, please call (888) 411-8995.
ACCOUNT MANAGER
Christy Chachere Lohmann [AL, AR, LA, MS, TX]
DIRECT RESPONSE Hagan Media/Katie Hagan

CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD/CEO Phyllis Hoffman DePiano

PRESIDENT/COO Eric W. Hoffman PRESIDENT/CCO Brian Hart Hoffman

EVP/CFO Mary P. Cummings VP/CULINARY & CUSTOM CONTENT

EVP/OPERATIONS & MANUFACTURING Brooke Michael Bell
Greg Baugh VP/SHELTER CONTENT Cindy Smith Cooper
VP/DIGITAL MEDIA Jon Adamson VP/ADVERTISING Katie Guasco

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fully protected by copyright and cannot be reproduced in any manner without prior written permission. All rights reserved in all countries.
Subscription Rates: For the United States, $39.95 per year, 6 issues, add $10 for postage in Canada, add $20 elsewhere. Single issue $12.99 available at newstands and bookstores. Periodicals postage
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fromEXPERTLY
the editor
TESTED
RECIPES FEATURING
PREMIUM
INGREDIENTS

All recipes in each issue pass

through the hands of the Bake
from Scratch test kitchen. Each
is flavorful and distinctive and
developed with your unique
tastes in mind.

The below products are

partners of Bake from Scratch
magazine and used exclusively
in all of our recipes.

Visit bakefromscratch.com
and follow us for daily baking inspiration.
Bake from Scratch The Crumb @thebakefeed

9 bake from scratch

 from the editor

AT THE RISK OF MASSIVE UNDERSTATEMENT,

2020 WAS A TOUGH YEAR.
Across the world, people had to adapt to exponential change and Adams of the blog Grandbaby Cakes, the woman introducing the
upset. Despite all of this, the good can’t be forgotten. During the next generation of bakers to the heirloom recipes she inherited
early days of the shutdowns and stay-at-home orders, people who from her grandmother. In addition to preserving her heritage in
had never considered themselves bakers found themselves elbows- frosting and batter, Jocelyn is creating new classics. The photos
deep in dough, trying everything from cake to sourdough for the accompanying this letter are of me baking her incredible Zingy
very first time. Then, on June 19, 2020, thousands of bakers— Lemon Roll Biscuits (page 33), a laminated and citrus-packed
including myself and many of the Bake from Scratch team—banded recipe that I’ll be baking on repeat this winter. Finally, meet the
together to host a global bake sale for Bakers Against Racism, an Bakers, Makers, Movers & Shakers You Need to Know (page 95)
organization that encourages home bakers and professional pastry who are raising the bar and their voices in the world of baking.
chefs to raise funds for local and national charities through bake Running the gamut from business owners to sugar artists, each
sales. Each cookie, cake, and blondie sold has helped contribute to innovator is expanding and enrichening our community.
their current tally of $1.9 million, making this the most successful
And as I said before, 2020 was tough. So, we’re also delivering
bake sale in history. To me, it has felt like the dawn of a new,
some much-needed comfort baking. From a decadent feature
sweeter era of baking.
on frangipane to a luxurious look at baking with peanuts, each
This issue is devoted to carrying this era into the new year. We’re recipe is a master class in cozy, good vibes. You can try your hand
celebrating Black bakers, an opportunity to pay tribute not only at the fantastically fried beignet (page 35) or learn how to bake
to the past contributions the Black community have made to the your own ideal of the brownie (page 85). For bakers looking for
world of baking but to the current movers and shakers who are some guidance on the art of substitutions and kitchen hacks, turn
helping to build a more diverse future. to Baking Possible (page 65), our in-depth manual that’ll keep
you baking even if you lack an ingredient or tool. And for those
Our look back begins with one of my pantry favorites—the peanut.
still searching for more baking intel, turn to our new column Talk
Without the diligent work of Dr. George Washington Carver, the
to Trish (page 113). In each issue, baking and pastry editor Tricia
peanut might not be nearly so beloved or easy to find. Bakers
Manzanero will be tackling your questions here, sharing test
like me owe him the sweetest of gratitude. Speaking of peanuts, I
kitchen wisdom on everything from dough to finnicky ovens.
have the pleasure to introduce you to our cover star, our Peanut
Butter Cake. The man who inspired it, Al Roker, of course needs This is an issue rich in more than just recipes—it’s rich in stories and
no introduction. Al’s story (see Retro Redo, page 25) is a loving voices. I started this magazine because I wanted to create a brand
homage to Big Annie, the formidable woman and baker behind that celebrated the baking community. That means sharing not
the original cake we had the honor of recreating. We also trace the only amazing recipes but also the many voices that power it. Our
history of benne wafers (page 107), which have always had a special January/February issue is a continuation of this mission. We hope
place in the Gullah-Geechee communities of South Carolina. our work will never be done. As long as you, dear baker, keep telling
Accompanying the article is a recipe from Toni Tipton-Martin’s your stories, we’ll continue to share them.
fantastic cookbook Jubilee, as much of a history on African
Happy baking,
American cuisine as it is a tome for recipes.

Then, we look to the future. We’re highlighting an all-star roundup

of products from Black-owned businesses, as well as spotlighting
three bakers who were a part of transforming Bakers Against Brian Hart Hoffman
Racism into a global movement, from the legendary Cheryl Day to Editor-in-Chief
the young and inspired Arley Arrington. We talk to Jocelyn Delk

january | february 2021 10

 FROM SCRATCH
®

Announcing our 2021

BAKING
RETREATS
SAVE THE DATE!
It’s time to take an adventure the Bake from Scratch way.

Our 2021 baking retreats will satisfy the wanderlust cravings

of the most intrepid bakers. You’ll learn top tips for baking
beautiful Bundt cakes in Minneapolis, Minnesota, the
hometown of Nordic Ware; brush up on the basics of British
baking in London; and master French holiday classics in Paris.

A DELICIOUS PREVIEW OF OUR RETREATS

LONDON AND IRELAND
LANCASHIRE, ENGLAND IRISH BAKING

BRITISH BAKING Dates to be announced soon!

MAY 23–29, 2021

PARIS, FRANCE
MINNEAPOLIS, MINNESOTA FRENCH HOLIDAY BAKING
BUNDT CAKE BAKING DECEMBER 3–8 and
Dates to be announced soon! DECEMBER 8–12

All you need to do is pack your bags—the aprons will be waiting for you.

For all of the delicious details on these retreats and to register, go to bakefromscratch.com/baking-retreats,
and to stay up to date on all our baking retreat announcements, sign up for our newsletter, PreHeat!
11 bake from scratch
 Tiramisù Frangipane ERS & MAKERS
Thumbprint Cookies CELEBRATING BLACK BAK

RECIPE INDEX on the cover

Peanut Butter Cake FROM SCRATCH ®

BARS AND COOKIES

Benne Wafers 109
Peanut Butter Cake 27
Vanilla Bean Sheet Cake with Vanilla
page 27 56 SWEET AND SAVORY
RECIPES TO WARM
UP WINTER
The Best Peanut-Packed Recipes
PHOTOGRAPHY BY [Peanut Meringue Cake, Brown

Cakey Brownies 91 Bean Swiss Meringue STEPHANIE Sugar-Peanut Pie, and More]

Baking
WELBOURNE STEELE Possible:
Cheesecake-Swirled Fudgy Brownies 92 Buttercream 23 RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BY
44 Baking
Solutions
& Hacks
Fudgy Brownies 92
PEANUT
TRICIA MANZANERO CAKE
PERFECTION
WITH

FOOD STYLING BY TODAY’S

Orange-Chocolate Brownie Cookies 64 FROSTINGS, FILLINGS, MEGAN LANKFORD

AL ROKER
page 27

Peanut Butter-Chocolate Chunk Cakey GARNISHES, AND GLAZES STYLING BY #thebakefeed

JAN/FEB 2021 7, 1

Brownies 91 Brown Sugar Candied Peanuts 28 MELISSA

The Better Way to Beignet: Our Step-by-Step Guide
STURDIVANT SMITH DISPLAY UNTIL MARCH 15, 2021

Tiramisù Frangipane Thumbprint Candied Orange Peel 64

Cookies 81 Candied Pecans 44
Caramel Sauce 44 Vanilla Streusel 84
BREADS Cheesecake Layer 92 Vanilla Whipped Topping 62
Banana-Peanut Butter Biscuits 48 Cinnamon-Ginger Streusel 60
Cinnamon-Swirled Banana Loaf 13 Citrus Glaze 60 MISCELLANEOUS
Frangipane-Jam Buns 84 Coffee German Buttercream 53 Bourbon Peanut Brittle 22
Peanut-Jalapeño Cornbread 52 Hazelnut-Almond Frangipane 84
Zingy Lemon Roll Biscuits with Lemon Mascarpone Buttercream 81 PASTRIES, PIES AND TARTS
Cream Cheese Drizzle 33 Mixed Citrus Curd 60 Brown Sugar-Peanut Pie 50
Peanut Butter Frosting 27, 91 Cinnamon-Sugar Beignets 42
CAKES Peanut Praline Filling 28 Ginger Pie Dough 50
Berry Frangipane Cake 83 Praline Cream Filling 44 Mini Galettes des Rois 82
Coffee-Peanut Meringue Cake 53 Rum Frangipane Filling 81 Praline Cream-Filled Beignets 43
Layered Grapefruit Cake 62 Vanilla Bean Swiss Meringue Traditional Beignets 38
Mama’s 7Up Pound Cake 34 Buttercream 23
Mixed Citrus Curd Crumb Cake 60 Vanilla Glaze 44

resources
Hot from the Oven
Baker Spotlight
Page 17
Arley Arrington portrait by Scott Elmquist
Cake photo by Arley Arrington
Britney Brown Chamberlain portrait by
Ashley Caitlin
Clyde Greenshouse portrait by
Jonathon Stafford
Pound Cakes photography by Emily’s
Heirloom Pound Cakes
Page 100
Meyer Lemon Poppy Seed Cake
Page 18 Cheryl Norris portrait by Kiana Taylor photography by Cheryl Norris
Page 15-16
House Helper Treeless Linen Towels Robert Toland portrait by Larissa Crossley Auzerais Bellamy portrait by Melanie Dunea Page 101
photography submitted by Linoto Cheryl Day portrait by Amy Dickerson Photography courtesy of Bryan Ford
April McClung portrait by Emily’s
Artisan Knives photography submitted Heirloom Pound Cakes Page 102
by Middleton Made Knives Baker Profile Citrus Pie photography by Britney
Page 29 Page 96 Brown-Chamberlain
Spice Mixes photography submitted by Photography by Jenna Barnard Tamara Eckles portrait by Eralphia Trey
Healthy on You Eckles III Page 103
Page 30 Photography by of Catherine Hurt
10-Piece Utensil Set photography Photography by Chuck Olu-Alabi Ashley Rouse portrait by Alex Joachim Photography
submitted by Karibe Company Bryan Ford portrait courtesy of Bryan Ford
Page 31 Page 104
Olive Wood Twist Spoons photography Left photo by Jocelyn Delk Adams. Stephanie Hall portrait by Catherine Artisan Cake photography by Maurice
submitted by Adjourn Teahouse Right photo by Jenna Barnard. Hurt Photography Shelton
Apron and Oven Mitt photography Page 32 Maurice Shelton portrait courtesy of Page 105
submitted by Bespoke Binny Top right photo by Jocelyn Delk Adams. Maurice Shelton Plum & Rose Jam photography by
Shallow White Stoneware Tray Bottom right photo by Jenna Barnard. Page 97 Jakob Wandel
photography submitted by Bloomist, Inc. Page 33 Blondie variety photography courtesy Chocolate Pecan Brownie Heart
Cake Jars photography submitted by Photography by Ali Stone Blondery photography by Kimberly Stephens
Jessi’s Sweet Treats Page 98
Raw Artisanal Honey photography Bakers, Makers, Movers & Shakers You Lemon Icebox Pie photography by
submitted by Zach & Zoë Sweet Bee Farm Need To Know Tamara Eckles
Page 95 Page 99
Oatmeal Cream Pie photography by Cardamom Brown Sugar Scones
Britney Brown-Chamberlain photography by Cheryl Norris

january | february 2021 12

better
BAKING
ACADEMY
with

SIGN UP TODAY!
Bake from Scratch and Bob’s Red Mill are teaming up to bring
you another year of the Better Baking Academy, a baking
education-driven series that will deliver custom recipes,
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inbox every month. Created to empower the home baker,
the Better Baking Academy with Bob’s Red Mill brings
the classroom to your kitchen. Conquer recipes you never
thought you’d be able to manage.

Each month, bakers will receive a new custom baking module.

Each one will feature a crave-worthy recipe with a corresponding
lesson and step-by-step images that break down every critical
technique in the recipe. You’ll master a vast array of baking skills—
from bread to pastry to cake—and graduate an empowered,
well-rounded home baker armed with knowledge and a collection
of recipes.

The best part? It’s FREE. You can’t put a price on education like
this. Better baking skills won’t be the only perk. You’ll also be
JOIN US ON THIS
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BAKING ADVENTURE!
Visit bakefromscratch.com/better-baking-academy
Get connected with other bakers around the world and a select to enroll in the Better Baking Academy today.
group of today’s top baking influencers who will be baking and
sharing the recipes each month along with you.
AN EXCLUSIVE LOOK AT THIS YEAR’S SCHEDULE
January: No-Knead Dutch Oven Bread July: Focaccia
February: Chocolate Pound Cake August: Three Ways with Oatmeal Cookies
March: Cheesecake September: English Muffins
April: Conchas October: Pumpkin Bagels
May: Strawberry Roulade November: Pecan Hand Pies
June: Gluten-Free Coffee Cake December: Red Velvet Battenberg Cake
hot from the oven

PRODUCTS WE’RE
CRUSHING ON
FROM SUSTAINABLE TEXTILES TO HANDCRAFTED KNIVES, APRONS, AND STONEWARE,
WE ARE EXCITED TO SUPPORT THESE BLACK-OWNED BUSINESSES AND HIGHLIGHT SOME
OF THE BAKING INDUSTRY’S MOST TALENTED ARTISANS AND ENTREPRENEURS.

KITCHEN
MUST-HAVES
ENVIRONMENTAL CHIC
House Helper Treeless Linen
Towels are made from the
same luxurious, natural linen
that makes Linoto products
unsurpassed in quality. As THE ONLY UTENSIL SET YOU WILL EVER NEED
part of the company’s
vow of sustainability Karibe knows that style and function should go hand in hand. Each
through its Zero Waste piece from the company’s 10-piece Utensil Set is crafted with a
Program initiative, durable silicone head to help keep your kitchenware scratch-free.
these perfectly sized tea The handles are made from smooth, attractive beechwood, making
towels utilize leftover them feel extra comfortable in your hands. From a whisk and a brush
fabric pieces. Lining your to spatulas and spoons, this set has all you need to complete your
breadbasket, covering baked goods, kitchen toolbox.
or simply cleaning up after a day of culinary Available at karibecompany.com, $45.99
inspiration has never been so refined.
Available at linoto.com, $8, multiple colors available
IT’S CAKE TIME!
The founder of Jessi’s Sweet
SIMPLY CHIC STONEWARE Treats learned how to bake at a
Tracie Hervy is the master ceramicist behind these elegant very young age and now serves up
Shallow White Stoneware Trays. Tracie’s simple yet sophisticated the ultimate treat—cake in a jar
designs are the perfect backdrop for any baked good. Use these delivered straight to your door.
platters for cakes, pastries, or cookies and bars. Beautiful and chic, You can share if you’d like, but that
the stoneware trays will add superior elegance to your creations. cute little jar sure looks like a single
serving to us. Discover options like
Available at Dolce, which has a dulce de leche
bloomist.com, $108 cake filling; Party in My Tummy, a
multicolored confection touting tons of rainbow sprinkles; and Milky,
a delicious tres leches cake and one of the most popular flavors.

Available at jessissweettreats.com, $11–$12

15 bake from scratch

FLAVORFUL, FRESH,
ORGANIC
Samantha Binkley is
turning up the volume
on your next baked good
with her thoughtful spice
blends. A certified health
coach, Sam created
Healthy on You in 2015
to add the right balance of of
flavors to recipes. Choose
the spice blend Provence EYES ON THE KNIVES
You’ve Been Gone (a.k.a. Knies from Middleton Made Knives are the ultimate form of
herbes de Provence) to make your next savory bread recipe sing, or functional art. Selecting high carbon steel, Quintin Middleton and
use the Spice Spice Baby (Asian 6 Spice) to crank up the volume of his apprentices take added care to craft each knife by hand. The
sweet and spicy notes for cinnamon rolls and cookies. artisanal quality make each one an art installation for your knife
Available at healthyonyou.com, $12 rack. We are obsessed with the paring knives, which are ideal for
scoring designs in pastries like our Mini Galette des Rois.
Available at middletonmadeknives.com, $100
WHISKY & SUNFLOWERS
ENAMEL PINS
THE ARTISAN AND
Joy McMillan is the baker and THE TEA
sourdough enthusiast who
started Whisky & Sunflowers, a Whether you are having afternoon
company that crafts charming, tea, high tea, or just looking for
bread-obsessed miniature the perfect companion for your
enamel pins. Whether you crave a scone, the loose-leaf artisanal teas
crusty baguette or go wild for an from Adjourn Teahouse are sure to
everything bagel loaded with cream fill you with warmth. We also love
cheese, Joy has the perfect pin to display your love their Olive Wood Twist Spoons for
for carbs. Our editor-in-chief proudly shows off two measuring out tea or serving with
of Joy’s enamel creations on his apron in this issue’s treats. Each one is skillfully hand-
Letter from the Editor. carved from wild olive wood by
Kamba wood carvers in Kenya. They are fair trade-certified, and with
Available at whiskyandsunflower.com, $12 clean and thoughtful designs, no two spoons are alike.

Available at adjournteahouse.com, $16

HOME IS WHERE THE
APRON ART IS HOME SWEET
Why did a cognitive behavioral HONEY
therapist start a company devoted At Zach & Zoë Sweet
to the use of African prints? Well, Bee Farm, a family of
just one look at Bespoke Binny beekeepers is specializing
and you will find uplifting colors in raw honey, which has a
and prints that are chosen to higher measurable value
brighten lives and inspire well- of vitamins, minerals,
being. With her Ghanaian heritage enzymes, and amino
in mind, owner and creator Natalie acids than its filtered and
Manima brings these aprons pasteurized counterpart.
and oven mitts to life using her You can choose from wildflower honeys that are au naturel or
expertise in needlework. those that have been infused with the most thoughtfully chosen
ingredients, from ginger root to lavender. Trust us, you’re not going
Available at bespokebinny.com, $34 to find anything artificial from this family.

Available at zachandzoe.co, $20 for 16 ounces •

january | february 2021 16
baker spotlight

BAKERS AGAINST RACISM

LAST SUMMER, HUNDREDS OF THOUSANDS OF BAKERS JOINED FORCES FOR THE LARGEST
BAKE SALE IN HISTORY. LAUNCHED BY BAKERS AGAINST RACISM, AN ORGANIZATION FOUNDED BY
PAOLA VELEZ, WILLA PELINI, AND ROB RUBBA, THE BAKE SALES HAVE RAISED $1.9 MILLION TO DATE—AND
COUNTING. WE’RE HIGHLIGHTING THREE OF THE BAKERS WHO HELPED TRANSFORM
THE BAKE SALE FROM A FUNDRAISING EVENT TO A FULL-BLOWN MOVEMENT.

ARLEY ARRINGTON the highest bidder and hosting other bake

sales, donating the proceeds to a variety of
AA: “I’m still figuring out what I want Arley
Cakes to look like, but I know what the
RICHMOND, VIRGINIA
causes, from a local fundraiser for school long-term goal is. I want to build a business
supplies to Spread the Vote, which boosts that can create good job opportunities for
How did you get involved with Bakers voter registration. Basically, since the first people who need it. I want to provide good
Against Racism? bake sale, I’ve strived to do one bake sale work for disenfranchised people, offering
AA: “When I first saw the Instagram post a month. Even if the donations are small, I benefits and health insurance in an industry
announcing Bakers Against Racism, I was love the opportunity to raise awareness for that really needs it.”
immediately on board. I’ve been running these causes.”
an online bakery, Arley Cakes, for a while, FOLLOW: arleycakes.com
and I’ve always brought my beliefs and We’ve all been spending more time at INSTAGRAM: @arley.cakes
activism to my baking. For the Richmond, home recently. Have you challenged
Virginia, fundraiser, I baked little cookies yourself with any difficult or more-
with “Black Lives Matter” frosted on top. involved bakes during the pandemic?
Since then, I’ve been auctioning cakes to

17 bake from scratch

ROBERT TOLAND
PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA

How did you get involved with Bakers

Against Racism?
RT: “The Philadelphia, Pennsylvania,
chapter of Bakers Against Racism started
with Camille Cogswell through Chef Paola
Velez. Camille and Paola reached out to
me shortly afterwards to get me involved.
Being the Pastry Chef at Terrain for the
past 5 years allowed me to have a larger
platform to spread the word. Not only
were we able to reach out to bakers in the
create with Bakers Against Racism. The
Philadelphia area but we were also able to Where does your work go from here?
climate becomes ripe for people to be more
get chefs from our other locations involved RT: “This was my first time getting involved informed. Now, more than ever, people are
as well. Camille also partnered with local in a bake sale that raised funds for charities. ready to listen. It’s up to us to be a voice of
brands like Weckerly’s to get the word out. I’ve always donated my money, but never change.”
When we got back together to do the Bake my time and work like this and it’s been so
the Vote bake sale, the mission was the incredibly gratifying. For future bake sales,
same. Raise money and awareness while INSTAGRAM:@thetoland
we’re just hoping to protect the vision that
supporting those that are trying to make a @phillybakersagainstracism
Paola, Willa, and Rob worked so hard to
difference in our society.”

CHERYL DAY What do you think has made Bakers

Against Racism such a successful
SAVANNAH, GEORGIA
movement?
How did you get involved with Bakers CD: “The reason I think this bake sale has
Against Racism? been so successful is because Paola and
the other founders opened the platform to
CD: “Lisa Marie Donovan, Sarah both professional bakers and home bakers.
O’Brien, and I had just started the It made all the difference. So many people
Southern Restaurants for Racial Justice, were able to be part of this. When we
an organization that works to do similar hear about people in France and Germany
fundraising through an all-star group of who were able to participate, it’s because
Southern restaurants. Since bakers are everyone was welcome to join. Plus, Paola
the sweetest people on earth, I knew that Velez is one of the most inspiring young
we could pool our resources together to women I know. As an elder watching
raise even more funds and awareness. this young woman come up in the same
We’ve been collaborating ever since. Lisa, profession, it makes me so proud. She’s
Sarah, and I are all bakers, so it was a been my woman of the year.”
natural relationship that developed. For
our organization, 100% of our profits Where do you think it goes from here? Bakers know they can make a difference,
go to Black-owned restaurants that are and I don’t see that going away anytime
struggling. But we’re always coordinating CD: “Bake sales go so far back in our soon.”
with BAR, doubling our impact. It’s history, since the Civil Rights movement
incredibly empowering that all of our voices and beyond. Bakers have always been the
FOLLOW: backinthedaybakery.com
are raised together.” ones to get together to raise money for
different organizations. This isn’t a trend. INSTAGRAM: @cherylday

GET INVOLVED! Go to bakersagainstracism.com to find out how you can help be part of an upcoming bake sale. •

january | february 2021 18

from the pantry

WE’RE DIGGING INTO THE

PEANUT, THE ULTIMATE BAKING
SHAPESHIFTER, FROM ITS HISTORICAL
ROOTS TO ITS SWEET MODERN USES

PEANUTS BY SANDI SHRIVER

STYLING BY LILY SIMPSON
I
t’s hard to imagine that the world-famous peanut lives in a constant state
of identity crisis. While it has the flavor characteristics of a nut, boasts
the nutritional content of a seed, and develops underground like a tuber,
the peanut actually belongs to the same plant family as beans and peas, called
Leguminosae. As a legume, it is like no other in its class. Roasted, it releases VALENCIA
aromatic oils and becomes undeniably crunchy; boiled, the peanut turns soft PEANUTS

and creamy. It can be ground into peanut butter, pressed into cooking oil,
and milled into flour. The peanut may forever struggle with the existential
question, “Am I a pea, or am I a nut?” Whatever the answer, it remains the
perfect baking companion in every way, shape, and form.

The peanut was first brought to North America aboard ships transporting
enslaved Africans. It wasn’t always a pantry essential; in fact, its popularity
had a slow start. One man dedicated much of his life to changing this
circumstance. Dr. George Washington Carver was born into slavery with a
single name: George. As a free man, he would go on to take several more
names during his remarkable life’s journey, including the monikers the Plant
Doctor, the Peanut Man, and the Peanut Wizard. Carver was the genius
behind the Tuskegee Institute’s science program. Now known as Tuskegee
University, this university and others are known as Historically Black Colleges
and Universities (HBCUs), prestigious institutions that educate and serve the
Black community. As a master of agriculture and botany, Carver’s infatuation
with the peanut’s nutritional use, ease of propagation, and soil nitrogen-fixing RUNNER
PEANUTS
properties paved the way for the crop’s prominence in the United States. As
world wars heightened dependence on domestic food sources and boll weevils
decimated cotton fields, the Peanut Wizard brought his knowledge to the table.
Carver is credited with more than 300 uses for the peanut, from paints and
lubricants to textiles and insulation, and 105 culinary uses, including oatmeal
peanut bread (which he notes is delicious), panocha, and peanut brittle. The
peanut’s popularity took off, remaining a pantry staple to this day, and Carver
is the brilliant man to thank for it.

For how common peanuts are today—from ball games and the circus to
mid-flight snacks—they are usually recognized by differences in preparation,
such as salted, roasted, and shelled. However, peanuts vary by type, and
four market varieties dominate the US peanut industry—Runner, Virginia, VIRGINIA
Spanish, and Valencia—each exhibiting a distinct flavor and composition. The PEANUTS

most common peanut, comprising approximately 85% of peanuts in the US,

is the Runner, which is a particularly hardy crop with a high yield. Peanuts
from Runner plants are medium-sized and uniform and have a very basic
peanut flavor. Their low cost stretches their use to a variety of products,
from peanut butters and oils to candies and snacks. Flavored with honey,
packaged alongside other nuts, or dry-roasted, these peanuts appear readily
on grocery store shelves and are the ultimate do-it-all option. Our Peanut-
Jalapeño Cornbread (page 52) makes use of honey-roasted peanuts, adding
a sweetness that balances the spicy jalapeño kick. Dry-roasted peanuts are
the perfect choice for our Coffee-Peanut Meringue Cake (page 53), as the
reduced oil content keeps the meringue airy and crisp.

The Virginia variety is the Cadillac of peanuts. It is prized for its larger size
and superior quality. A “blister roast,” or a hot dip in oil, boosts this peanut’s
SPANISH
crunch factor, and Virginias are best enjoyed on their own. However, they PEANUTS
can be used in any recipe calling for peanuts and add outstanding peanut flavor in recipes. The oil can also be refined, which gives
crunch and sweet flavor—if you don’t mind spending a little extra. it a neutral flavor and increases the smoke point. The high smoke
point of peanut oil makes it the perfect medium for frying light
The Spanish peanut is small, round, and extra-rich in oleic acid and fluffy treats like doughnuts, beignets, and funnel cakes. For
(a monounsaturated fatty acid shown to be beneficial to health), our The Essential . . . Beignets starting on page 35, we used canola
making it the select choice for extracting peanut oil. The higher oil for frying, but you could try peanut oil instead.
oleic content also increases shelf life of the peanut, which means
that the peanuts in your favorite candy bars stay fresher longer. Once the oil is extracted from the peanut meal, defatted flour
The less readily available Valencia is dainty in size but packs a remains. Also called peanut butter powder, this seemingly new
higher ratio of carbs, lending to its signature sweetness. Long pods product is showing up on grocery store shelves. Don’t let that
with multiple beans are characteristic, so if you find a shell with fool you, though—peanut flour has been used in baked goods for
four or five peanuts, you’re likely holding a Valencia. This peanut decades, like the peanut biscuits described in the August 18, 1883,
is the preferred choice in all-natural peanut butters, where the issue of Scientific American. Our Banana-Peanut Butter Biscuits
inherent sweetness means no added sugars. recipe on page 48 pays homage to the classic peanut biscuit but
uses the more modern and easy-to-find peanut butter powder.
Speaking of peanut butter, let’s talk about one of the most beloved This powder doesn’t add any additional oil, ensuring the texture of
peanut products. According to cereal and health food pioneer these biscuits stays ultralight. Peanut flour can be used in cookies,
John Harvey Kellogg, the process of grinding peanuts into a paste bars, cakes, and leavened breads for added flavor and texture, but
creates “the most delicious nut butter you ever tasted in your life.” because it doesn’t contain gluten, it is not a direct swap.
A slurry of carbohydrates and proteins made creamy from the
dispersion of unsaturated fats, peanut butter adds enticing flavor The secret ingredient to many a beloved recipe, the peanut endures
and silky texture to baked goods, becoming a perfect addition as one of the most versatile of pantry staples. Thanks to Carver’s
to cake batter and the star of buttercream. (See Peanut Butter brilliance and fortitude, this national treasure is ours to enjoy.
Cake on page 27.) The choice between creamy and chunky may
divide people, but treats made by team chunky benefit from added
crunch. Chunky peanut butter swaps effortlessly for creamy in BAKE WITH PEANUTS In this issue, don’t miss:
most recipes, but take care when piping frosting made with chunky Peanut Butter Cake, page 27 Peanut-Jalapeño Cornbread,
Banana-Peanut Butter Biscuits, page 52
peanut butter, as the peanut bits can quickly clog up pastry bags
page 48 Coffee-Peanut Meringue Cake,
and piping tips. page 53
Brown Sugar-Peanut Pie,
page 50 Peanut Butter-Chocolate Chunk
Of course, the process of grinding peanuts doesn’t stop at peanut Cakey Brownies, page 91
butter. A rough grind and a thorough press extracts a golden oil
that can be used to heighten baked goods. When the oil comes
from roasted peanuts, the final product is fragrant and intensifies
BOURBON PEANUT BRITTLE
Makes about 4 cups

Golden, crunchy, and full of rich, buttery peanuts,

peanut brittle recipes have been passed down for
decades. The true enchantment of peanut brittle is
explained by sugar science and a basic chemical reaction.
The sugar mixture first undergoes caramelization, coming
to a temperature that transforms it into candy. Next,
the addition of baking soda causes the hot mixture to
bubble up vigorously, and upon cooling, those tiny air
pockets get trapped, creating the signature honeycomb
texture. We have taken the classic peanut brittle recipe
a step further with a generous splash of bourbon that
gives it a first-class upgrade. See our PRO TIP for safety
precautions when making hot sugar syrup.

¾ cup (150 grams) granulated sugar

¼ cup (85 grams) light corn syrup
¼ cup (60 grams) bourbon
¾ cup (99 grams) dry-roasted lightly salted
peanuts
1 tablespoon (14 grams) unsalted butter,
softened
¾ teaspoon (3 grams) vanilla extract
½ teaspoon (2.5 grams) baking soda
Flaked sea salt, for sprinkling

1. Line a rimmed baking sheet with a nonstick baking

mat.
2. In a medium saucepan, stir together sugar, corn
syrup, and bourbon; cook, without stirring, over
medium heat until a candy thermometer registers
270°F (132°C). Stir in peanuts. Cook, stirring
frequently, until a candy thermometer registers
300°F (149°C).
3. Remove sugar mixture from heat; working
quickly, stir in butter, vanilla, and baking soda until
butter is melted and mixture is well combined.
(Adding the baking soda will cause the mixture to
rapidly bubble.) Pour onto prepared pan; using a
large offset spatula, quickly spread into a thin layer.
Sprinkle with sea salt. Let cool completely.
4. Break brittle into shards, and store in an airtight
container for up to 3 weeks.

PRO TIP
When making candy, the sticky nature of hot
sugar syrup can lead to severe burns if precautions
are not taken. It is important to use the utmost
care around the hot syrup. Protect children and
pets and wear protective clothing or pot holders
when necessary. Furthermore, when making
brittle, baking soda will cause the hot sugar to
vigorously bubble, so it is important to use a
pot that will be large enough to account for this
expansion. As tempting as it may be, do not taste
or touch the caramelized mixture while it is hot. •
 ADVERTISING

VANILLA BEAN SHEET CAKE WITH VANILLA BEAN

SWISS MERINGUE BUTTERCREAM
)LZMIUa^IVQTTIJMIVKISMOM\[M^MVLZMIUQMZ_Q\PIOMVMZW][;_Q[[UMZQVO]MJ]\\MZKZMIU\WXXQVO:QKPIZWUI\QK0MQTITI>IVQTTI*MIV
8I[\M[XMKSTM[\PMKISMIVL\PMJ]\\MZKZMIULZQ^QVOPWUM\PM[_MM\^IVQTTINTI^WZ

Makes 1 (13x9-inch) cake

Recipe by Erin Clarkson

1⅓ cups plus 2 teaspoons (330 grams)

whole milk
½ cup (120 grams) whole Greek yogurt
4 large eggs (200 grams), room
temperature
2 large egg yolks (37 grams), room
temperature
2 teaspoons (12 grams) Heilala Vanilla
Bean Paste
4¾ cups plus 2 teaspoons (600 grams)
all-purpose flour
2¼ cups (450 grams) granulated sugar
3¼ teaspoons (16.25 grams) baking powder
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt
1½ cups plus 1 teaspoon (345 grams)
unsalted butter, room temperature
Vanilla Bean Swiss Meringue Buttercream
(recipe follows)
Garnish: sprinkles

1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Butter

a 13x9-inch baking pan. Line pan with
parchment paper, letting excess extend over
sides of pan.
2. In a medium bowl, whisk together milk,
yogurt, eggs, egg yolks, and vanilla bean paste.
3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
the paddle attachment, beat flour, sugar,
baking powder, and salt at low speed just
until combined. Add butter, one cube at Meringue Buttercream onto cake, swirling bowl over a saucepan of simmering water,
a time, beating until combined after each as desired. Garnish with sprinkles, if desired. and cook, whisking constantly, until sugar
addition. (Mixture should resemble sand.) dissolves and an instant-read thermometer
Add half of milk mixture; beat at low speed VANILLA BEAN SWISS MERINGUE BUTTERCREAM registers 160°F (70°C).
just until combined. Add remaining milk About 6 cups 2. Carefully return bowl to stand mixer. Using
mixture, and beat at medium speed just the whisk attachment, beat at high speed
until combined. Using a rubber spatula, fold 6 large egg whites (190 grams) until white and fluffy, 8 to 10 minutes.
batter to ensure that no dry ingredients 1½ cups (300 grams) granulated sugar 3. Add butter to mixture, one cube at a time,
remain. Pour batter into prepared pan, ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt beating until combined after each addition.
smoothing top with an offset spatula. 3 cups plus 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon (Mixture may look curdled, but just keep
4. Bake until cake springs back when (700 grams) cold unsalted butter, mixing.) Beat at high speed for 10 minutes.
touched in center and a wooden pick cubed 4. Add vanilla bean paste to mixture, and
inserted in center comes out clean, about 2 teaspoons (12 grams) Heilala Vanilla beat at high speed for 2 to 3 minutes.
45 minutes. Let cool completely in pan. Bean Paste Switch to the paddle attachment, and beat
5. Using excess parchment as handles, at low speed for 1 minute to remove any air.
remove cooled cake from pan. Using an 1. In the heatproof bowl of a stand mixer,
offset spatula, spread Vanilla Bean Swiss combine egg whites, sugar, and salt. Place Photography by Erin Clarkson
retro redo

PEANUT BUTTER CAKE

THE TODAY ICON AND UNABASHED PEANUT BUTTER FROSTING LOVER AL ROKER
SHARES THE ROMANTIC STORY OF BIG ANNIE’S PEANUT BUTTER CAKE
AS TOLD TO KYLE GRACE MILLS

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHANIE WELBOURNE STEELE

STYLING BY MARY BETH JONES AND MELISSA STURDIVANT SMITH
M
y wife, Deborah, is from Perry, We tried to reverse engineer the peanut
Georgia, and came from a very butter cake for TODAY, and it held up. Back
close-knit family. She had five in the day, baking was all economy of scale. If
aunts, and standing on her front porch, you could you’re baking one cake, you might as well bake
see four of the five aunts’ homes. Big Annie was one of the two, and if you can bake two, bake three and we’ll freeze
aunts. She was 97 when I met her, living comfortably and two. I have no idea how long Big Annie’s peanut butter cake
independently by herself. As she greeted us, that classic had been waiting for me in the freezer. The one we made
Southern hospitality kicked in, and she took us to her porch for TODAY was a bit fresher, and came very close to the
freezer. She pulled out this brown cylinder, tightly wrapped cake I remembered. Either way, you can’t do much better
in plastic. I thought, “This is interesting.” We headed back than something baked with peanut butter, that sweet,
to the parlor, talked for 45 minutes, and then Big Annie frugal pantry favorite.
excused herself and returned saying, “I thought you might
I’m not much of a baker myself, because, well, I liken it to
like to try my peanut butter cake.” She served us cake
music. Cooking is jazz and baking is classical music. You
wedges thick enough to choke a horse, but I have to say, it
can’t veer off the track and improvise with baking. There can
was fantastic. I’d never had anything like that in my life. I’d
be happy accidents, though. During quarantine, Deborah
never even tasted peanut butter frosting before that day.
made a banana bread that should have been a disaster. The
Sadly, I got this one piece of it but never got the recipe. As
center didn’t set and the top didn’t rise enough—but what
was the case with my mother and grandmother, Big Annie
happened was that it made this kind of banana jam in the
didn’t bake by recipe. She just knew what went into it, like
middle. I loved it. Now, we can’t duplicate it. She baked
baking muscle memory.
it again, and this time, the recipe worked correctly but I
I have a similar longing for my father’s baking and lost missed that jammy center. Another delicious baked good
recipes. When I was in fourth or fifth grade, he just decided I guess we can’t replicate. Still, it’ll live on in my memory,
he wanted to experiment with cinnamon rolls. We lived in just like Big Annie’s decadent peanut butter cake.
Brooklyn, New York, in an apartment building on the first
floor, and I remember the dense thud I heard when he
dumped the failed dough into the incinerator. He finally
got it right. To this day, my greatest olfactory memory is
coming into the apartment on a cold winter day and being
greeted by the smell of cinnamon rolls baking. By the time
I went off to college, he had stopped baking, and I never
got a chance to ask him why or what his recipe for the
cinnamon rolls was.

january | february 2021 26

PEANUT BUTTER CAKE mixture to butter mixture alternately with milk, beginning and
Makes 1 (9-inch) cake ending with flour mixture, beating just until combined after each
addition and stopping frequently to scrape bottom and sides of
Inspired by Big Annie’s original cake that made such a lasting bowl. Divide batter among prepared pans (about 663 grams each),
impression on Al Roker, this Peanut Butter Cake doubles down on and smooth tops using a small offset spatula. Tap pans on a kitchen
nutty decadence. A caramel-rich Peanut Praline Filling packs the towel-lined counter several times to settle batter and release any
center while candied peanuts form a chewy golden crown on top. To air bubbles.
finish it off, we encased the entire peanut-powered masterpiece in a 4. Bake until cakes spring back lightly when gently pressed in
velvet Peanut Butter Frosting that would do Al proud. center and a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean,
25 to 30 minutes, rotating pans during last 2 to 4 minutes of
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (255 grams) unsalted butter, softened baking. Let cool in pans for 5 minutes. Remove from pans, and let
2¼ cups (450 grams) granulated sugar cool completely, parchment side down, on wire racks. Once cool,
1 cup (256 grams) creamy peanut butter* remove parchment paper.
1 tablespoon (13 grams) vanilla extract 5. Trim or level cooled cake layers, if desired. Place 1 cake layer on
3 large eggs (150 grams), room temperature a serving plate. Spoon ½ cup (120 grams) Peanut Butter Frosting
3 cups (375 grams) all-purpose flour into a pastry bag; cut a ½-inch opening in tip. Pipe a ½-inch-tall
1 tablespoon (15 grams) baking powder border around edge of cake layer. Dollop half of Peanut Praline
¾ teaspoon (3.75 grams) baking soda Filling (about 375 grams) all over top of cake layer, and spread
¾ teaspoon (4.5 grams) salt until even and reaches piped border. Top with second cake layer.
2¼ cups (540 grams) whole milk, room temperature Pipe a ½-inch-tall border around edge of cake layer. Dollop
Peanut Butter Frosting (recipe follows) remaining Peanut Praline Filling all over top of cake layer, and
Peanut Praline Filling (recipe follows) spread until even and reaches piped border. Top with remaining
Garnish: Brown Sugar Candied Peanuts (recipe follows) cake layer. Spread a thin layer of frosting on top and sides of cake
to create a crumb coat. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour.
1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray 3 (9-inch) round 6. Spread remaining Peanut Butter Frosting on top and sides
cake pans with baking spray with flour. Line bottom of pans with of cake. Garnish with Brown Sugar Candied Peanuts, if desired.
parchment paper. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or up to overnight. Let stand
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, at room temperature for 20 to 30 minutes before serving.
beat butter and sugar at medium speed until light and fluffy,
about 4 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl. With mixer on *We used Jif Creamy Peanut Butter.
medium-low speed, add peanut butter and vanilla, beating until
smooth and well combined and stopping to scrape sides of bowl. PEANUT BUTTER FROSTING
Add eggs, one at a time, beating until smooth and well combined Makes 7 cups
after each addition.
3. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, baking 3 cups (768 grams) creamy peanut butter
soda, and salt. With mixer on low speed, gradually add flour 1½ cups (340 grams) unsalted butter, room temperature*

cover recipe
baker pro²le

29 bake from scratch

 THE SWEETEST
HERITAGE
WE TALK WITH JOCELYN DELK ADAMS, THE BOSS BAKER BEHIND
GRANDBABY CAKES, ON THE ART OF PRESERVING MEMORIES
AND FAMILY TRADITION THROUGH BAKING

S
ome people inherit handmade quilts orfine china from
their grandmother; Jocelyn Delk Adams inherited a
passion. The baker and creator of the blog Grandbaby
Cakes has built an empire on heirloom recipes twirled up with
modern flavors. Jocelyn knows that everything that has come
since Grandbaby Cakes’s inception—the television spots on
TODAY and the Food Network, the award-winning cookbook,
the brand partnerships—all started with her baking in the
kitchen with her grandmother Maggie Mae Small. “In every
sense of the word, my grandmother is my muse,” Jocelyn says.

Growing up in the hustle and bustle of the outskirts of

Chicago, Illinois, Jocelyn and her family spent summer
vacations and holidays visiting her grandfather and Big Mama,
as Maggie was affectionately known, in Winona, Mississippi.
“It was always such an interesting change of pace. It’s a small,
quaint town, and there wasn’t much for us to do except bake.”
And bake, she did. With Big Mama as her guide, Jocelyn was
inducted into the magical world of batter and dough, learning
to frost coconut cakes, bake sweet potato pies, and whip up
biscuits. “Every morning, without fail, she made her biscuits
for breakfast. For more special occasions, she made her dinner
rolls, and this would always accompany her classic Southern
cooking, like smothered pork chops and fried catfish—the
food you’re always most comforted by.”

january | february 2021 30

 Big Mama wasn’t the only member of Jocelyn’s family who proved to be with the blog, she had a clear goal in mind for what the cookbook would
a formative influence in the culinary department. Her mother and aunt be. “I wanted to write a cookbook that could be passed down to another
both have had plenty to do with Jocelyn’s comfort in the kitchen. “My generation the same way these things were passed down to me. That’s why
mother definitely can bake and cook, but she’s more into the decoration I put a little note in the beginning of the cookbook, asking readers to write
and shopping side of things. We like to joke that the love-of-baking gene down who in the family was the first generation who used the cookbook,”
skipped her and came to me,” she says with a laugh. Jocelyn didn’t think she says. Packed within its glossy pages of Bundt cakes and cream cheese
of this baking gene as the key to her career at first. “I was a media major frosting were the recipes that first got Jocelyn baking as a child, from her
in college and worked behind the scenes in the television industry,” she mom’s 7UP Pound Cake to her grandmother’s Fig Brown Sugar Cake.
says. But baking kept manifesting as more than just a pastime or hobby. The tome also offered plenty of Jocelyn’s creative new ideas, crossing
“I was always bringing in cakes to the office, all of them based off of my hummingbird cake with pineapple upside-down cake and incorporating
grandmother’s recipes. It got to the point where I earned the nickname Baby blackberry buttercream with iconic red velvet layer cake. The book’s tagline,
Cakes.” Then came the watershed moment. In 2012, Jocelyn purchased a “Modern Recipes, Vintage Charm,” sums up why the cookbook became an
rudimentary website template for $99 and launched Grandbaby Cakes as instant classic. It would go on to win a Gourmand World Cookbook Award,
a way to share her grandmother’s recipes. But what started as an impulse but this honor paled in comparison to the shining moment Jocelyn was
decision transformed into a cohesive vision. “I wanted it to really feel able to share with her grandmother after it was published. “I remember the
nostalgic. At the same time, I wanted it to represent both the old and new, moment I first handed my cookbook to my grandmother. She said, ‘This
honoring my past and honoring my current passion,” she says. is the most beautiful thing I’ve ever seen.’ And I still have that precious
memory of her holding my cookbook, this great recognition of who she
Two years of dedicated hustling later, Jocelyn was approached by not one,
was to me.”
but two literary agents with interest in a Grandbaby Cakes cookbook. Like

31 bake from scratch

Since the cookbook, Jocelyn has continued to nurture and grow the
blog, striving to preserve the connection that her followers feel for her
and her recipes. “What means the most to me is that millions of people
can visit my website but the whole exchange stays so intimate. I’m
sharing recipes, but those recipes become a little girl’s birthday cake or
a family’s Thanksgiving dessert. I’m getting to be a part of people’s lives
in a special and real way.” And while other bloggers may feel the need to
change things up and head in a new direction, Jocelyn plans to stay true
to what makes her blog work. “I know there’s some current pushback
with people just wanting to get to the recipe and not engage in the story,
but these recipes are important to me. They have stories behind them,
family behind them. And I don’t think people have connected with
Grandbaby Cakes just because of the recipes—they feel as connected to
me as they do to the recipes.”

Even with the full-time job as a baking guru, Jocelyn has spent plenty of
her time and energy paying it forward. In 2014, she created A Charitable
Confection, a fundraiser that brought together some of Chicago’s top
bakeries and pastry chefs to host a bake sale benefiting Project Orange
Tree, a foundation focused on educating youth about societal and
structural violence in the community. Then, in 2017, she contributed to
the cookbook Feed the Resistance, a community potluck of recipes that
urged bakers and chefs to delve into activism and good food. Perhaps
one of her proudest endeavors was working as an instructor at a Chicago
Youth Center. “I was able to teach baking courses for six months, helping
kids learn the kitchen basics, but really, life skills. I think my favorite
part was that I had two boys sign up, and I loved getting them into the
kitchen. It felt like I had the chance to show the kitchen is a domain for
everyone.”

Jocelyn believes that there are few places more perfect for a person
to nurture their individuality than the kitchen. “The kitchen is such an
empowering place. I’m a Black woman with a very successful business—
and the kitchen is where I built it.”

january | february 2021 32

 1. For biscuits: In a large bowl, sift together flour, cornstarch,
2 tablespoons (24 grams) sugar, baking powder, salt, and ginger.
Add 2 teaspoons (2 grams) lemon zest, and toss with your hands.
Make a well in center. Shred ¾ cup (170 grams) cold butter into
well. Using your hands, toss together flour mixture and shredded
butter. Add cold milk, and knead by hand in bowl just until a thick
dough forms.
2. Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface. Fold dough over
itself four times to develop a stiff dough. Roll dough into a
12x8-inch rectangle. Shred remaining ⅓ cup (76 grams) cold
butter onto two-thirds widthwise of rectangle. Fold unbuttered
third of dough over center third; fold remaining third over
middle fold. (You should have a rectangle with no buttered parts
exposed.) Roll dough into a 12x8-inch rectangle. Fold each short
ends to meet in center; fold in half where short ends meet. Wrap
in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 20 minutes.
3. Roll dough into a 12x8-inch rectangle. Fold short ends to meet
in center; fold in half where short ends meet. Wrap in plastic wrap,
and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
4. In a small bowl, stir together remaining ½ cup (100 grams)
sugar and remaining 2 tablespoons (6 grams) lemon zest; set aside.
5. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray a 12-cup muffin pan
with baking spray with flour.
6. Roll dough into an 18x14-inch rectangle. Using an offset
spatula, spread softened butter onto dough, leaving a 1-inch
border on one long side. Sprinkle lemon zest-sugar mixture onto
butter. Starting with long side opposite border, roll dough into
a log, jelly roll style; pinch seam to seal. Place dough seam side
down, and cut into 12 slices. Press slices into prepared muffin cups.
(Pressing down lightly on inner part will help them form a swirl
ZINGY LEMON ROLL BISCUITS WITH LEMON- when they’re baked.)
CREAM CHEESE DRIZZLE 7. Bake until golden brown and puffed up, 55 minutes to 1 hour.
Makes 12 biscuits Let cool in pan for 5 minutes. Immediately invert biscuits onto a
wire rack, and let biscuits cool completely upside down.
These laminated, citrus- and ginger-packed biscuits offer warm, 8. For glaze: In a large bowl, beat cream cheese and salt with a
buttery comfort for cold winter days. mixer at low speed until smooth. Gradually add confectioners’
sugar, beating until combined; scrape sides of bowl and beaters.
Biscuits: Increase mixer speed to medium, and beat until light and fluffy.
3¾ cups (469 grams) all-purpose flour Add lemon zest and juice, and beat at low speed until well
¼ cup (32 grams) cornstarch combined. Drizzle glaze onto cooled biscuits. Store in an airtight
½ cup (100 grams) plus 2 tablespoons (24 grams) granulated container for up to 2 days.
sugar, divided
1 tablespoon (15 grams) baking powder *I used Land O Lakes® Butter.
1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt
1 teaspoon (2 grams) ground ginger Notes: To reheat, microwave on high for 15 seconds, or reheat in a
2 tablespoons (6 grams) plus 2 teaspoons (2 grams) lemon zest 200°F (93°C) oven for 5 minutes.
(about 3 large lemons), divided
1 cup plus 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon (246 grams) cold
unsalted butter*, divided
1½ cups (360 grams) cold whole milk
2 tablespoons (28 grams) salted butter*, softened MAKE AHEAD
Dough can be made through step 3 up to 1 day ahead. Glaze
Glaze: can be made up to 3 days ahead.
4 ounces (113 grams) cream cheese, softened
Pinch salt
1½ cups (180 grams) confectioners’ sugar PRO TIP
1½ teaspoons (1.5 grams) lemon zest (about 1 lemon) For extra lemony flavor, brush a thin layer of fresh lemon
2 tablespoons (30 grams) fresh lemon juice juice on top of biscuits after removing them from the pan.

33 bake from scratch

MAMA’S 7UP POUND CAKE
Serves 12–16

This is a vintage recipe that has been in my family for decades.

It was actually the very first cake I ever learned to bake, which I
suspect is not only because it is my mother’s absolute favorite cake
but also because it was an unintimidating induction into the baking
world, with results that even a nine-year-old girl could master.
When I bake it now, I always imagine passing this recipe down to
my daughter to bake for her family one day.

P.S. My mother has always been adamant about using the original
7UP and nothing else. She says you can really taste the difference.
While I have used other lemon-lime soda brands ranging from
Sprite to Sierra Mist, I try my best to follow my mother’s advice.

CAKE
1½ cups (340 grams) (3 sticks) unsalted butter, room
temperature
3 cups (600 grams) granulated sugar
1 teaspoon (6 grams) salt
5 large eggs (250 grams), room temperature
3 cups (375 grams) sifted cake flour
½ cup (120 grams) 7UP soda, room temperature
1 tablespoon (13 grams) lemon extract

GLAZE
1 cup (120 grams) confectioners’ sugar
3 tablespoons (45 grams) 7UP soda
½ teaspoon (2 grams) lemon extract

FOR THE CAKE

1. Preheat your oven to 315°F (160°C). Prepare a 10-cup
Bundt pan with the nonstick method of your choice.
2. In the bowl of your stand mixer fitted with the whisk
attachment, beat the butter for 2 minutes on high speed.
Slowly add the sugar and salt. Cream together for an additional
7 minutes, until very pale yellow and fluffy. Add the eggs 1 at a
time, combining well after each addition and scraping down the
sides and bottom of the bowl as needed.
3. Turn your mixer down to its lowest speed and slowly add the
flour in 2 batches. Be careful not to overbeat. Pour in the 7UP and
lemon extract. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl and
mix the batter until just combined. Be careful not to overmix.
4. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake for 75 to 85
minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center of the
cake comes out clean.
5. Let the cake cool in the pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes, then
invert onto a serving plate. Let cool to room temperature. Lightly
cover the cake with foil or plastic wrap so it does not dry out.

FOR THE GLAZE

1. In a small bowl, whisk together all the ingredients until the
mixture is pourable. When the cake is completely cool, spoon
the glaze over the cake and allow it to harden. Serve at room
temperature.

Reprinted with permission from Grandbaby Cakes by Jocelyn

Delk Adams, Agate Surrey, 2015. •
 BEIGNETS
LEARN HOW TO MAKE THE NEW ORLEANS, LOUISIANA, FRIED ICON,
FROM A CONFECTIONERS’ SUGAR-DUSTED CLASSIC TO A PRALINE
CREAM-FILLED TWIST
PHOTOGRAPHY BY WILLIAM DICKEY / RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BY LAURA CRANDALL
FOOD STYLING BY MEGAN LANKFORD / STYLING BY COURTNI BODIFORD / HAND MODELING BY JANEKA MAZE

B
ite into a freshly fried, pillowy beignet, and there’s a burst of air, confectioners’ sugar
puffing out as the interior hollow collapses in. Beyond offering a decadent taste of
pastry, the beignet sends one on a sensational journey to the fantastic city it hails from,
calling to mind the aroma of hot chicory coffee, the convivial sound of jazz, and of ancient oak
trees glimmering with strands of green, gold, and purple beads. Brought to Louisiana in the 18th
century by the Acadian settlers from the French colonies in Canada, beignets have become an
emblematic star of New Orleans’ Cajun-style pâtisserie. In the historic French Quarter, the most
iconic of beignets is served at Café du Monde. Established in 1862 as a humble coffee stand, Café
du Monde serves only one pastry item, beignets, preferably with a cup of the Creole standard of
café au lait, a dark-roasted chicory coffee cut with hot milk.

While there’s much unique magic to be found in New Orleans, the particular glory of the beignet
can be brought to your home kitchen. We’ll take you from shaping to frying, helping you master
the basics in between. With three foolproof recipes, from classic to perfectly praline, you’ll soon
be bringing a bit of Crescent City charm to your corner of the world.
37 bake from scratch
TRADITIONAL BEIGNETS
Makes 24 beignets

Our recipe offers the crisp, golden standard of a beignet, perfect

with only an adornment of confectioners’ sugar. Our dough can be
made and chilled overnight before a morning fry in oil for a breakfast
of beignets the way they’re intended to be served—still hot with an
equally hot cup of café au lait.

½ cup (120 grams) warm water (105°F/41°C to 110°F/43°C)

1½ teaspoons (4.5 grams) active dry yeast
¼ cup (50 grams) plus 1 teaspoon (4 grams) granulated sugar,
divided
½ cup (120 grams) boiling water
½ cup (120 grams) evaporated milk
2 tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted butter, melted
2 teaspoons (6 grams) kosher salt
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract
1 large egg (50 grams)
4¼ cups (531 grams) all-purpose flour
Canola or vegetable oil, for frying
1 cup (120 grams) confectioners’ sugar

1. In a small bowl, stir together ½ cup (120 grams) warm water,

yeast, and 1 teaspoon (4 grams) granulated sugar. Let stand until
foamy, about 5 minutes.
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk together ½ cup (120 grams)
boiling water, evaporated milk, melted butter, salt, vanilla, and
remaining ¼ cup (50 grams) granulated sugar by hand. Whisk
in yeast mixture and egg. Add flour. Using the dough hook
attachment, beat until dough comes together, starts to get
smooth and soft, and forms a ball at base of dough hook, 6 to
7 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl. (Dough should stick
to your fingers when you touch it but release after you pull away.
Dough will still stick to bottom and sides of bowl.) Check dough
for proper gluten development using the windowpane test. (See
Beignet Dough Basics.)
3. Spray a large bowl with cooking spray. Place dough in bowl,
Beignet Dough Basics
turning to grease top. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or Learn how to master the quirks of the dough
up to overnight.
4. In a large Dutch oven, pour oil to a depth of 2 inches, and heat Beignet dough is a fairly wet, sticky dough. While there is
over medium heat until a deep-fry thermometer registers 375°F yeast in a typical beignet dough, a great amount of its puffy
(190°C). (See Note.) rise during frying is due to the excess moisture in the dough.
5. Divide dough in half (about 518 grams each). On a heavily This moisture becomes a powerful burst of steam, allowing
floured surface, roll half of dough into a 13x10-inch rectangle the dough to puff out while a large hollow is created within.
(about ¼ inch thick). (Cover and refrigerate remaining dough.)
While this texture makes it perfect to fry into puffed pastries,
Trim ½ inch off edges so rectangle is 12x9 inches. Cut into 3-inch
squares, and separate them so they do not stick back together. it can be difficult to know when your dough has been kneaded
6. Place 2 to 3 squares in hot oil; when settled on top of oil, properly. The best way to gauge when your dough is ready
immediately turn. (See Frying 411 on page 40.) Fry until golden is to use the windowpane test to check dough for proper
brown, about 1 minute per side. Carefully remove from hot oil, and gluten development. Pinch off (don’t tear) a small piece of
let drain on paper towels. Repeat procedure with remaining dough. dough. Slowly pull the dough out from the center. If the
Sift confectioners’ sugar over hot beignets. Serve warm. dough is ready, you will be able to stretch it until it’s thin and
translucent like a windowpane. If the dough tears, it’s not quite
Note: It can take 30 to 45 minutes for the oil to heat. Remove the ready. Beat for 1 minute, and test again.
dough from the refrigerator only after the oil reaches 375°F (190°C).

january | february 2021 38

 Two Ways to Cut
Round or square, a beignet is beautiful in any shape. Learn how to
shape them both ways.

FOR SQUARES
1. TRIMMING DOUGH
First, you’ll need to trim the dough so you can cut out clean squares. On a
heavily floured surface, roll dough into a 13x10-inch rectangle (about ¼ inch
thick). Trim ½ inch off edges so rectangle is 12x9 inches. The dough will be
sticky, so keep plenty of flour on hand to generously coat your surface, rolling
pin, and cutting utensils. Keep your trusty ruler on hand so you can cut exactly
to the designated measurement.

FOR ROUNDS
CUTTING ROUND DOUGH
Using a 3¼-inch round cutter, cut circles, and
2. CUTTING SQUARE DOUGH separate them so they do not stick back together;
Cut into 3-inch squares, and separate them so they do not stick back discard scraps. For the round cutter, a biscuit cutter
together. We used a pastry wheel for cutting, as it moves quickly and or cookie cutter will do the trick, although even the
efficiently through the sticky dough, but a sharp knife will work as well. rim of a straight-sided drinking glass will work. Again,
It’s important to separate the dough squares, as the tacky dough tends to as you cut, separate the circles so the dough doesn't
meld back together when touching. merge back together.

39 bake from scratch

Frying 411
Have no fear of frying! Follow
these steps to fry epically golden,
delightfully crisp beignets.

1. PREP
Before you cut your beignets into squares
or circles, go ahead and prep your oil. In a
large Dutch oven, pour oil to a depth of
2 inches, and heat over medium heat until
a deep-fry thermometer registers 375°F
(190°C). This can take 30 to 45 minutes,
and patience is key. If you try to fry the
beignets before the oil reaches the right
temperature, your beignets will be pale and
greasy, absorbing oil instead of cooking in a
hot flash. While we used an enamel-coated
Dutch oven, a large, heavy-bottomed
stockpot can work as well—just make sure
that it has a thick base so it can heat the
oil evenly.

2. FRYING
If you’re new to frying, start off with one
beignet. Once you carefully drop the
beignet into the oil, it’ll float and settle
on top of the oil. Just as it settles on top,
immediately turn it over with your slotted
spoon or spider strainer. This makes for
more even frying; otherwise, a pale circle
appears on one side of the beignet. Fry
until golden brown, about 1 minute per
side. As you become more comfortable,
you can fry two or three at a time, but
don’t do more than that—it will drop the
temperature of the oil. As you continue to
fry, pay attention to your thermometer,
adjusting the heat as needed to maintain a
temperature of 375°F (190°C).

3. COOLING
Have a paper towel-lined dish waiting for
the fried beignets to cool on. The paper
towels will absorb excess oil. After you’ve
finished frying, you’ll either let them cool
enough for filling (see our Praline Cream-
Filled Beignets on page 43), or you’ll let
them cool just enough for them to be safely
coated in cinnamon sugar or to be served
with a dusting of confectioners’ sugar.
january | february 2021 40
41 bake from scratch
CINNAMON-SUGAR BEIGNETS
Makes 24 beignets

We've introduced the spiced-sugar coating often used on a churro to the

beignet formula. These freshly fried beignets get tossed in a cinnamon-
sugar blend, adding a satisfying note of crunch to the mix.

½ cup (120 grams) warm water (105°F/41°C to 110°F/43°C)

1½ teaspoons (4.5 grams) active dry yeast
1¼ cups (250 grams) plus 1 teaspoon (4 grams) granulated sugar,
divided
½ cup (120 grams) boiling water
½ cup (120 grams) evaporated milk
2 tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted butter, melted
2 teaspoons (6 grams) kosher salt
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract
1 large egg (50 grams)
4¼ cups (531 grams) all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons (12 grams) ground cinnamon, divided
Canola or vegetable oil, for frying

1. In a small bowl, stir together ½ cup (120 grams) warm water, yeast,
and 1 teaspoon (4 grams) sugar. Let stand until foamy, about
5 minutes.
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk together ½ cup (120 grams)
boiling water, evaporated milk, ¼ cup (50 grams) sugar, melted
butter, salt, and vanilla by hand. Whisk in yeast mixture and egg.
3. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour and 1 tablespoon (6 grams)
cinnamon; add to boiling water mixture. Using the dough hook
attachment, beat until dough comes together, starts to get smooth
and soft, and forms a ball at base of dough hook, 6 to 7 minutes,
stopping to scrape sides of bowl. (Dough should stick to your fingers
when you touch it but release after you pull away. Dough will still
stick to bottom and sides of bowl.) Check dough for proper gluten
development using the windowpane test. (See Beignet Dough Basics
on page 38).
4. Spray a large bowl with cooking spray. Place dough in bowl, turning
to grease top. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to
overnight.
5. In a large Dutch oven, pour oil to a depth of 2 inches, and heat
over medium heat until a deep-fry thermometer registers 375°F
(190°C). (See Note.)
6. In another medium bowl, stir together remaining 1 cup
(200 grams) sugar and remaining 1 tablespoon (6 grams) cinnamon.
7. Divide dough in half (about 518 grams each). On a heavily floured
surface, roll half of dough into a 13x10-inch rectangle (about
¼ inch thick). (Cover and refrigerate remaining dough.) Trim ½ inch
off edges so rectangle is 12x9 inches. Cut into 3-inch squares, and
separate them so they do not stick back together.
8. Place 2 to 3 squares in hot oil; when settled on top of oil,
immediately turn. (See Frying 411 on page 40.) Fry until golden
brown, about 1 minute per side. Carefully remove from hot oil, and
let drain on paper towels; immediately toss in cinnamon sugar. Place
on wire rack. Repeat procedure with remaining dough. Serve warm.

Note: It can take 30 to 45 minutes for the oil to heat. Remove the
dough from the refrigerator only after the oil reaches 375°F (190°C).
PRALINE CREAM-FILLED
BEIGNETS
Makes 16 beignets

Two New Orleans classics combine for these

gorgeous praline cream-packed beignets. In
addition to the caramel-rich filling, we dipped
these pastries in Vanilla Glaze and further
crowned them with Candied Pecans, driving
home that iconic praline flavor.

½ cup (120 grams) warm water

(105°F/41°C to 110°F/43°C)
1½ teaspoons (4.5 grams) active dry yeast
¼ cup (50 grams) plus 1 teaspoon
(4 grams) granulated sugar, divided
½ cup (120 grams) boiling water
½ cup (120 grams) evaporated milk
2 tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted
butter, melted
2 teaspoons (6 grams) kosher salt
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract
1 large egg (50 grams)
4¼ cups (531 grams) all-purpose flour
Canola or vegetable oil, for frying
Praline Cream Filling (recipe follows)
Vanilla Glaze (recipe follows)
Candied Pecans (recipe follows), finely
chopped

1. In a small bowl, stir together ½ cup

(120 grams) warm water, yeast, and
1 teaspoon (4 grams) sugar. Let stand until
foamy, about 5 minutes.
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk
together ½ cup (120 grams) boiling water,
evaporated milk, melted butter, salt, vanilla,
and remaining ¼ cup (50 grams) sugar by
hand. Whisk in yeast mixture and egg. Add
flour. Using the dough hook attachment,
beat until dough comes together, starts to
get smooth and soft, and forms a ball at base
of dough hook, 6 to 7 minutes, stopping
to scrape sides of bowl. (Dough should
stick to your fingers when you touch it but
release after you pull away. Dough will still
stick to bottom and sides of bowl.) Check
dough for proper gluten development using
the windowpane test. (See Beignet Dough
Basics on page 38).
3. Spray a large bowl with cooking spray.
Place dough in bowl, turning to grease top.
Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours
or up to overnight.
4. In a large Dutch oven, pour oil to a depth
of 2 inches, and heat over medium heat
until a deep-fry thermometer registers
350°F (180°C). (See Note.)
5. Divide dough in half (about 518 grams
each). On a heavily floured surface,
roll half of dough into a 13x10-inch
½ cup (120 grams) heavy whipping
cream, room temperature
HOW TO FILL YOUR BEIGNETS
rectangle (about ¼ inch thick). (Cover 6 tablespoons (84 grams) unsalted
and refrigerate remaining dough.) Using butter, softened and cubed
a 3¼-inch round cutter, cut 8 circles, and 2 teaspoons (8 grams) vanilla extract
separate them so they do not stick back
together; discard scraps. 1. In a medium saucepan, heat sugar and
6. Place 2 to 3 circles in hot oil; when 3 tablespoons (45 grams) water over high
settled on top of oil, immediately turn. heat, being careful not to splash sides of
(See Frying 411 on page 40.) Fry until pan. (It should be the consistency of wet
golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes per side. sand.) Use remaining 1 tablespoon
Carefully remove from hot oil, and let (15 grams) water to brush down sides of
drain on paper towels. Let cool completely. pan, and stir to help sugar dissolve. (Do
Repeat procedure with remaining dough. not stir once it starts to boil.) Cook until
7. Using a small paring knife, make a hole in desired light amber color is reached.
side of each cooled beignet; using a small Remove from heat; slowly add cream,
wooden skewer, hollow inside of each beignet. whisking until combined. (Mixture will
8. Place Praline Cream Filling in a pastry bubble up.) Add butter, a few cubes at
bag fitted with a ¼-inch round piping tip; a time, whisking until combined. Stir in
pipe filling into beignets. Dip tops in Vanilla vanilla. Let cool to room temperature. PIERCING
Glaze, letting excess drip off; sprinkle with
Candied Pecans. Serve immediately. VANILLA GLAZE Using a small paring knife, make a hole
Makes 1 cup in side of each cooled beignet; using
Note: It can take 30 to 45 minutes for a small wooden skewer, hollow inside
the oil to heat. Remove the dough from the 2 cups (240 grams) confectioners’ sugar of each beignet. While the beignet
refrigerator only after the oil reaches 350°F ½ cup (120 grams) heavy whipping will mostly fry with a neat little hollow
(180°C). cream inside, a wooden skewer will help clean
1½ teaspoons (6 grams) vanilla extract out any lingering dough webbing for the
PRALINE CREAM FILLING praline cream to evenly fill the hollow.
Makes about 4 cups 1. In a medium bowl, place confectioners’
sugar. Slowly whisk in cream until smooth.
12 ounces (340 grams) cream cheese, Whisk in vanilla. Use immediately.
softened
¾ cup (170 grams) unsalted butter, CANDIED PECANS
softened Makes 4 cups
¼ cup (75 grams) Caramel Sauce
(recipe follows) ½ cup (110 grams) firmly packed light
1½ teaspoons (6 grams) vanilla extract brown sugar
1⅓ cups (160 grams) confectioners’ sugar 1 teaspoon (2 grams) ground cinnamon
1½ tablespoons (22.5 grams) heavy ¾ teaspoon (2.25 grams) kosher salt
whipping cream 1 large egg white (30 grams)
3 cups (426 grams) pecan halves
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
the paddle attachment, beat cream cheese 1. Preheat oven to 300°F (150°C). Lightly
and butter at medium-low speed until spray a rimmed baking sheet with cooking
smooth and creamy, about 1 minute. Beat spray.
in Caramel Sauce and vanilla. With mixer 2. In a small bowl, whisk together brown
on low speed, gradually add confectioners’ sugar, cinnamon, and salt.
sugar, beating until combined. Add cream, 3. In a large bowl, whisk egg white until
and beat at medium speed until smooth foamy. Whisk in sugar mixture. Add FILLING
and fluffy, about 1 minute. pecans, tossing gently to coat. Spread in a Place Praline Cream Filling in a pastry
single layer on prepared pan. bag fitted with a ¼-inch round piping
CARAMEL SAUCE 4. Bake until golden, about 20 minutes, tip; pipe filling into beignets. Apply even
Makes 1⅓ cups stirring halfway through baking. Let cool pressure as you fill so the filling comes
completely. Store in an airtight container out in a slow, steady stream. Pipe too
1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar for up to 1 week.
quickly or forcibly and you risk bursting
4 tablespoons (60 grams) water, divided
your beignets with too much filling. •

january | february 2021 44

 nuts abouPt eanuts
WHETHER WHOLE, CHOPPED, GROUND TO FLOUR, OR BLENDED TO MAKE CREAMY NUT BUTTER, THE
VERSATILITY OF THE ICONIC PEANUT OFFERS UNRIVALED TEXTURE AND TASTE TO ANY BAKED GOOD.
FROM A STACKED AND FROSTED MERINGUE LAYER CAKE TO TENDER BANANA-PEANUT BUTTER BISCUITS,
THESE PEANUT-PACKED RECIPES OFFER NEW TWISTS ON A PANTRY FAVORITE.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JIM BATHIE / RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BY TRICIA MANZANERO / STYLING BY MARY BETH JONES
 Coffee-Peanut
Meringue Cake
page 53
BANANA-PEANUT BUTTER BISCUITS blender or 2 forks, cut in cold butter until mixture
Makes 9 biscuits resembles coarse bread crumbs.
3. In a small bowl, whisk together cold buttermilk, banana,
If there were ever a match made in heaven, it would be and vanilla bean paste. Add buttermilk mixture to flour
banana and peanut butter. Defatted peanut butter powder mixture, stirring with a fork until a shaggy dough forms.
plays a transformative role in this tender biscuit, providing 4. Turn out dough onto a clean surface, and pat into a
structure and all the nutty flavor you love without adding 1-inch-thick rectangle (about 7½x5 inches). (Dough
any additional oil to weigh down the biscuits. will start out crumbly but will come together.) Cut
dough crosswise into thirds. Stack thirds on top of each
1¾ cups (219 grams) all-purpose flour other; roll or pat to 1-inch thickness, and carefully flour
¾ cup (70 grams) powdered peanut butter* underneath dough. Using a 2½-inch round cutter dipped
3 tablespoons (36 grams) granulated sugar in flour, cut dough without twisting cutter, rerolling
3¾ teaspoons (18.75 grams) baking powder scraps as necessary. Place ½ inch apart on prepared pan.
1¼ teaspoons (2.5 grams) ground cinnamon Freeze until cold, about 15 minutes.
¼ teaspoon ground ginger 5. Using a pastry brush, brush egg on top of dough.
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg 6. Bake until golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes. Serve
⅛ teaspoon ground cloves warm with softened butter.
⅛ teaspoon ground cardamom
1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt *We used PB2 Original Powdered Peanut Butter, available at
¾ cup (170 grams) cold unsalted butter, cubed grocery stores and online at amazon.com.
½ cup (120 grams) cold whole buttermilk
¼ cup (57 grams) mashed ripe banana (about
1 medium banana)
1 teaspoon (6 grams) vanilla bean paste
1 large egg (50 grams), lightly beaten
Softened butter, to serve

1. Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C). Line a baking sheet

with parchment paper.
2. In a large bowl, sift together flour, powdered peanut
butter, sugar, baking powder, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg,
cloves, and cardamom. Whisk in salt. Using a pastry

january | february 2021 48

BROWN SUGAR-PEANUT PIE
Makes 1 (9-inch) pie

Why do pecans get to have all the fun? This Brown

Sugar-Peanut Pie is a cinch to stir together with ingredients
you likely already have in your pantry. Even with a sweet
brown sugar filling bursting with honey, orange zest, and
bourbon, classic salted cocktail peanuts steal the show. melted butter, eggs, egg yolk, bourbon, salt, and orange
zest until well combined, stopping to scrape sides of bowl.
Ginger Pie Dough (recipe follows) Stir in peanuts; pour into prepared crust.
1 cup (220 grams) firmly packed dark brown sugar 7. Bake until filling is set and puffed and an instant-
⅓ cup (113 grams) clover honey read thermometer inserted in center registers 200°F
¼ cup (57 grams) unsalted butter, melted (93°C), 36 to 46 minutes, loosely covering crust with
2 large eggs (100 grams), room temperature foil to prevent excess browning, if necessary. Let cool
1 large egg yolk (19 grams), room temperature completely on a wire rack.
1 tablespoon (15 grams) bourbon*
¾ teaspoon (2.25 grams) kosher salt *For an alcohol-free version, replace bourbon with 1½ to
½ teaspoon (3 grams) tightly packed orange zest 3 teaspoons (6 to 12 grams) vanilla extract.
2¼ cups (340 grams) very roughly chopped salted
cocktail peanuts GINGER PIE DOUGH
Makes 1 (9-inch) crust
1. Position oven rack in center of oven. Preheat oven to
400°F (200°C). 1½ cups (188 grams) all-purpose flour
2. Let Ginger Pie Dough stand at room temperature until 1½ tablespoons (18 grams) granulated sugar
slightly softened, 10 to 15 minutes. 1½ teaspoons (3 grams) ground ginger
3. On a lightly floured surface, roll dough into a 12-inch 1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt
circle (about ⅛ inch thick), lightly flouring rolling pin and ½ cup (113 grams) cold unsalted butter, cubed
surface as needed. Transfer to a 9-inch pie plate, pressing 3 to 4 tablespoons (45 to 60 grams) ice water
into bottom and up sides. Trim excess dough, if necessary,
leaving a ¾- to 1-inch overhang from inner edge of plate; 1. In the work bowl of a food processor, place flour, sugar,
fold edges under, and crimp, if desired. Freeze until firm, ginger, and salt; pulse until combined, about 4 times.
about 10 minutes. Add cold butter; pulse until butter cubes are peanut- to
4. Top frozen dough with parchment paper, letting ends almond-size. Add 3 tablespoons (45 grams) ice water in
extend over edges of plate. Add pie weights. two additions, pulsing until dough forms large clumps.
5. Bake until edges are just set, about 10 to 20 minutes. Add remaining 1 tablespoon (15 grams) ice water if dough
Carefully remove parchment and weights; let cool on a seems too dry.
wire rack for 30 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 2. Turn out dough onto a clean surface, and shape into a
350°F (180°C). Position oven rack in lower third of oven. 5-inch disk. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap, and refrigerate
6. In a large bowl, whisk together brown sugar, honey, for at least 1 hour.
january | february 2021 50
PEANUT-JALAPEÑO CORNBREAD 7. Bake until golden brown and a wooden pick inserted
Makes 1 (9-inch) loaf in center comes out clean, 18 to 22 minutes, loosely
covering with foil to prevent excess browning, if
Two pantry staples, peanuts and cornmeal, come together necessary. Let cool in skillet for 15 minutes. Serve
to make the ultimate side dish. The addition of buttermilk warm with honey and remaining browned butter.
creates a tender crumb, and chopped peanuts add
flavorful crunch. Spicy jalapeño is balanced by a touch of Note: It’s important to be able to see the butter solids
sweet honey, and a nutty swirl of browned butter further brown, which can be difficult in many dark-colored cast-iron
complements the richness of the roasted peanuts. skillets. If baking in a 9-inch enamel-coated cast-iron skillet
with a light-colored interior, feel free to brown the butter
½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter first in the same skillet. Be sure to wipe the skillet clean
2 tablespoons (28 grams) vegetable oil before adding oil and preheating.
1½cups (170 grams) stone-ground yellow cornmeal
¾ cup (94 grams) all-purpose flour
1½teaspoons (4.5 grams) kosher salt
½ teaspoon (2.5 grams) baking soda
¼ teaspoon (1.25 grams) baking powder
1½cups (360 grams) whole buttermilk, room
temperature
1 large egg (50 grams), room temperature
1 large egg yolk (19 grams), room temperature
1 tablespoon (21 grams) clover honey, plus more to
serve
¾ cup (107 grams) honey-roasted peanuts, roughly
chopped and divided
½ cup (57 grams) ¼-inch-chopped seeded jalapeño

1. Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C).

2. In a light-colored 9-inch metal skillet (see Note), melt
butter over medium heat. Cook until butter solids are
amber colored and nutty in aroma, 7 to 12 minutes. Pour
browned butter into a medium heatproof bowl; let cool
for 10 minutes.
3. In a 9-inch cast-iron skillet, place oil; place skillet in
oven until hot, about 8 minutes.
4. In a large bowl, whisk together cornmeal, flour, salt,
baking soda, and baking powder.
5. In another medium bowl, whisk together buttermilk,
3 tablespoons (37 grams) browned butter, egg, egg yolk,
and honey. Whisk buttermilk mixture into cornmeal
mixture until combined. Fold in two-thirds of peanuts and
jalapeño.
6. Remove hot skillet from oven; carefully pour batter
over hot oil in skillet, spreading into an even layer with a
small offset spatula. Sprinkle with remaining peanuts.
 COFFEE-PEANUT MERINGUE CAKE COFFEE GERMAN BUTTERCREAM
Makes 1 (6-inch) cake Makes about 7 cups

In this nutty mix-up of the traditional French dacquoise, almonds and 1⅓ cups (267 grams) granulated sugar
hazelnuts are swapped out for finely chopped peanuts. Roasted notes ⅓ cup (40 grams) cornstarch
from coffee in the buttercream complement the peanut meringue, and ¾ teaspoon (2.25 grams) kosher salt
the creamy-crunchy combination leads to a divine sensory experience. 2 large eggs (100 grams)
2 large egg yolks (37 grams)
5 large egg whites (150 grams), room temperature 1½ cups (360 grams) whole milk
¼ teaspoon cream of tartar 1½ tablespoons (19.5 grams) vanilla extract
⅛ teaspoon kosher salt 2⅔ cups (604 grams) unsalted butter, softened
¾ cup (150 grams) granulated sugar ¼ cup (12 grams) dark-roast instant coffee granules
¾ cup (98 grams) very finely chopped dry-roasted lightly salted 1 tablespoon (15 grams) water
peanuts (see Notes)
1 teaspoon (6 grams) vanilla bean paste 1. In a large bowl, whisk together sugar, cornstarch, and salt. Add
Coffee German Buttercream (recipe follows) eggs and egg yolks; whisk until well combined, stopping to scrape
Garnish: very roughly chopped dry-roasted lightly salted peanuts sides of bowl.
2. In a medium saucepan, heat milk over medium heat, stirring
1. Preheat oven to 250°F (130°C). Using a permanent marker, frequently, until steaming. (Do not boil.) Gradually whisk warm
trace 6 (6-inch) circles ¾ inch apart on 2 sheets of nonstick milk into sugar mixture. Return mixture to saucepan; cook,
parchment paper; turn parchment over, and place on 2 rimmed whisking constantly, until thickened, slightly lumpy, and starting
baking sheets. to bubble, about 4 minutes. Cook, whisking constantly, for
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, 2 minutes. Remove from heat. Whisk in vanilla. (Mixture should
beat egg whites, cream of tartar, and salt at medium-high speed now be smooth.) Pour into a large baking dish. Cover with a piece
until foamy. Add sugar in a slow, steady stream, beating until of plastic wrap, pressing wrap directly onto surface of custard to
glossy, stiff peaks form and stopping to scrape sides of bowl. prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate until cool, about 1 hour.
Gently fold in one-third of finely chopped peanuts and vanilla 3. Let custard stand at room temperature for 40 minutes; stir
bean paste just until combined; gently fold in remaining finely until smooth and softened.
chopped peanuts in two additions just until combined. 4. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment,
3. Working quickly, spoon meringue mixture into a pastry bag beat butter at medium speed until creamy, smooth, and light,
fitted with a ½-inch round piping tip (Wilton No. 2A). Starting about 4 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Add custard,
from outer edge of drawn circles and moving inward, quickly pipe about 1 to 2 tablespoons (16 to 36 grams) at a time, beating until
meringue mixture onto prepared parchment. Using a small offset combined after each addition and stopping to scrape sides of bowl.
spatula, gently smooth, fill, and level meringue rounds where 5. In a small bowl, stir together coffee granules and 1 tablespoon
necessary. (15 grams) water until granules are dissolved.
4. Bake until golden, dry, and mostly firm to the touch (meringues 6. Switch to the whisk attachment. Add coffee mixture to butter
will continue to firm as they cool), 2 to 3 hours (see Notes), mixture, and beat at medium speed until light and fluffy, about
rotating pans halfway through baking. Let cool completely on pans 4 minutes. Use immediately.
on wire racks.
5. Place a cooled meringue round on a serving plate. Using a
small offset spatula, spread ¾ cup (126 grams) Coffee German
Buttercream onto meringue round. Top with second meringue
round; spread ¾ cup (126 grams) buttercream on top. Repeat
procedure three times, and top with remaining meringue round, PRO TIP
flat side down. Spread remaining buttercream on top and sides Plan to serve the same day to get the crispest layers, as
of stacked meringue rounds. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. the meringue will soften over time in the refrigerator.
Garnish with roughly chopped peanuts, if desired. Let stand at
room temperature for 15 to 20 minutes before slicing and serving.

Notes: Dry-roasted peanuts are the best choice for this cake, as the
dry-roasting method uses heat without additional oil. This reduces the
chance of deflating the meringue, keeping the airy matrix fluffy before
it is baked into crispy cake layers.

On very humid days, meringue rounds could take up to 30 minutes

longer to bake. Be sure to judge by doneness qualifiers, not just time.

53 bake from scratch

Coffee-Peanut
Meringue Cake
page 53 •
BREAD, COOKIES,
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JANECE MAZE
APPROPRIATELY NAMED “FLAVEDO” IN SCIENTIFIC TERMS, THE THIN, OUTERMOST SKIN OF CITRUS FRUIT
IS A FLAVOR POWERHOUSE. THIS LAYER CONCEALS TINY POCKETS OF FRAGRANT OILS, EAGERLY
WAITING TO BE HARNESSED. FROM FUDGY ORANGE BROWNIE COOKIES TO A GORGEOUS
OMBRÉ GRAPEFRUIT LAYER CAKE, THESE ZESTY RECIPES WILL HAVE
YOU UNLOCKING THE POWER OF THE PEEL.
59 bake from scratch
MIXED CITRUS CURD CRUMB rotating pan halfway through baking and CINNAMON-GINGER STREUSEL
CAKE loosely covering with foil to prevent excess Makes 1½ cups
Makes 1 (9-inch) cake browning, if necessary. Let cool in pan on
a wire rack for 10 minutes. Using excess ⅓ cup (67 grams) granulated sugar
With this citrus-packed crumb cake, good things parchment as handles, remove from pan. ¼ cup (55 grams) firmly packed light
come in threes. A fresh blend of mandarin, lime, Serve warm or at room temperature. brown sugar
and lemon comes together to make a silky, tart Drizzle with Citrus Glaze before serving. ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
curd, which is layered between tender cake and Garnish with zests, if desired. ½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter,
a crunchy streusel topping. melted
MIXED CITRUS CURD 1⅓ cups (167 grams) all-purpose flour
½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, Makes about 1¼ cups ¾ teaspoon (1.5 grams) ground ginger
softened ½ teaspoon (2.5 grams) baking powder
⅔ cup (133 grams) granulated sugar 2 large eggs (100 grams) ½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground cinnamon
⅓ cup (73 grams) firmly packed light 2 large egg yolks (37 grams)
brown sugar ½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar 1. In a medium bowl, stir together sugars
2 large eggs (100 grams), room 1 teaspoon (2 grams) packed lemon zest and salt until well combined. Stir in melted
temperature 3 tablespoons (45 grams) fresh lemon butter until well combined.
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract juice 2. In another medium bowl, whisk together
2 cups (250 grams) all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon (2 grams) packed lime zest flour, ginger, baking powder, and cinnamon.
1 tablespoon (15 grams) baking powder 2½ tablespoons (37.5 grams) fresh lime Add flour mixture to sugar mixture, stirring
¾ teaspoon (2.25 grams) kosher salt juice until well combined. Let stand at room
½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground cardamom 1 teaspoon (2 grams) packed mandarin temperature until ready to use.
1 cup (240 grams) sour cream, room zest
temperature 2½ tablespoons (37.5 grams) fresh CITRUS GLAZE
Mixed Citrus Curd (recipe follows) mandarin juice Makes ½ cup
Cinnamon-Ginger Streusel (recipe follows) ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
Citrus Glaze (recipe follows) ¼ cup (57 grams) unsalted butter, cubed 1 cup (120 grams) confectioners’ sugar
Garnish: lemon zest, lime zest, mandarin 2½ teaspoons (12.5 grams) fresh mandarin
zest 1. Place a fine-mesh sieve over a medium juice
heatproof bowl; set aside. 1 teaspoon (5 grams) fresh lemon juice
1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray 2. In another medium heatproof bowl, 1 teaspoon (5 grams) fresh lime juice
a 9-inch square baking pan with cooking whisk together eggs and egg yolks until well
spray. Line pan with parchment paper, combined; set aside. 1. In a medium bowl, stir together all
letting excess extend over sides of pan. 3. In a medium saucepan, stir together sugar, ingredients until smooth and well combined.
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with lemon zest and juice, lime zest and juice, Use immediately.
the paddle attachment, beat butter and mandarin zest and juice, and salt. Cook over
sugars at medium speed until fluffy, about medium-low heat until sugar dissolves and
3 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl. mixture begins to steam. (Do not boil.) Pour
Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after citrus mixture into egg mixture in a slow,
each addition. Beat in vanilla. (Mixture steady stream, whisking constantly. Return
may look slightly curdled at this point, but mixture to saucepan. Cook, stirring slowly
batter will come together.) and constantly in a figure eight motion with a
3. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, silicone spatula, until mixture is thickened and
baking powder, salt, and cardamom. With can coat the back of a spoon and an instant-
mixer on low speed, gradually add flour read thermometer registers 175°F (79°C) to
mixture to butter mixture alternately with 180°F (82°C), 10 to 12 minutes. Add butter,
sour cream, beginning and ending with 1 to 2 cubes at a time, stirring until melted
flour mixture, beating until combined after after each addition.
each addition and stopping to scrape sides 4. Press curd through prepared sieve,
of bowl. Spoon batter into prepared pan; discarding any solids. Cover with a piece
using a small offset spatula, smooth into an of plastic wrap, pressing wrap directly onto
even layer. Dollop Mixed Citrus Curd onto surface of curd to prevent a skin from
batter in pan; using a small offset spatula, forming. Refrigerate until well chilled and
spread into an even layer, leaving a ¼-inch set, at least 2 hours.
border around sides of pan. Crumble
Cinnamon-Ginger Streusel in large clumps
evenly on top.
4. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in
center comes out clean, 45 to 50 minutes,
LAYERED GRAPEFRUIT CAKE
Makes 1 (9-inch) cake

The classic cocktail popularized by Count Camillo

Negroni consisting of gin, vermouth, and the perfect pour
of Campari gets a makeover in this impressive ombré
layer cake. The herbal bitterness from the ruby-hued
liqueur creates citrus alchemy, magically enhancing the
grapefruit and balancing the creamy sweetness of the
Vanilla Whipped Topping.

¾ cup (170 grams) unsalted butter, softened combined. Transfer Campari topping to
1½ cups (300 grams) granulated sugar a pastry bag, and cut a ½-inch opening in
¼ cup (25 grams) grapefruit zest (about 4 large tip; pipe evenly onto cake. Using a small
grapefruits) offset spatula, spread into an even layer.
3 large eggs (150 grams), room temperature Using a paper towel, clean any smears of
1 tablespoon (15 grams) fresh grapefruit juice, room Campari topping off parchment. Freeze
temperature for 25 minutes.
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract 7. Whisk remaining Vanilla Whipped Topping
1¾ cups (219 grams) all-purpose flour until thickened, if necessary; spoon onto
2 teaspoons (10 grams) baking powder frozen Campari topping, smoothing into an
1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt even layer and swirling as desired using the
½ cup (120 grams) whole milk, room temperature back of a spoon. Loosely cover and refrigerate
Pink gel food coloring* for at least 4 hours or up to overnight.
Vanilla Whipped Topping (recipe follows), divided 8. Carefully remove sides of pan and parchment.
2½ tablespoons (37.5 grams) Campari Smooth sides and patch any holes in topping, if
necessary. Serve immediately.
1. Preheat oven to 325°F (170°C). Spray a 9-inch
springform pan with baking spray with flour. Line *We used 8 drops of Wilton Color Right
bottom of pan with parchment paper. Performance Pink Food Coloring.
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle
attachment, beat butter, sugar, and grapefruit zest at VANILLA WHIPPED TOPPING
medium speed until fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes, stopping to Makes about 6½ cups
scrape sides of bowl. Add eggs, one at a time, beating
well after each addition. Beat in grapefruit juice and 8 ounces (226 grams) cream cheese, softened
vanilla. (Mixture may look slightly curdled at this point, ¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons (174 grams)
but batter will come together.) granulated sugar
3. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, baking 2⅔ cups (640 grams) cold heavy whipping
powder, and salt. In a small bowl, stir together milk and cream
food coloring*. With mixer on low speed, gradually add 1¼ teaspoons (5 grams) vanilla extract
flour mixture to butter mixture alternately with milk
mixture, beating until combined after each addition 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the
and stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Spoon batter into whisk attachment, beat cream cheese and
prepared pan, smoothing top with a small offset spatula. sugar at medium speed until smooth and well
4. Bake for 35 minutes; cover with foil, and bake until combined, stopping to scrape sides of bowl.
a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, Reduce mixer speed to medium-low; slowly add
5 to 7 minutes more. Let cool in pan for 5 minutes. one-third of cold cream, beating until smooth
Remove sides of pan; let cake cool completely on base and stopping frequently to scrape sides of bowl.
of pan on a wire rack. With mixer on medium speed, gradually add
5. Using a serrated knife, level cooled cake. Wrap a vanilla and remaining cold cream, beating until
30x4-inch strip of parchment paper around top half thickened and medium peaks form. (Do not
of cake, fitting it flush around sides to form a collar; overmix.)
securely staple together. (You can use more than one
strip of parchment, if necessary.) Replace sides of pan.
6. In a medium bowl, stir together 2¼ cups (330 grams)
Vanilla Whipped Topping and Campari until well

january | february 2021 62

ORANGE-CHOCOLATE BROWNIE COOKIES CANDIED ORANGE PEEL
Makes about 9 cookies Makes about 1¼ cups

Zesty orange and bittersweet chocolate may seem like an odd couple, 2 large navel oranges (560 grams)
but just like in the classic film, each makes its counterpart even 2 cups (400 grams) granulated sugar
better. Acidity from the Candied Orange Peel cuts perfectly through 2 cups (480 grams) water
the rich decadence of the chocolate and enhances the bittersweet
notes in this delectably fudgy, faultlessly chewy cookie. 1. Using a sharp knife, cut about ¼ inch off top and bottom
ends of oranges so fruit can sit flat. Quarter oranges vertically;
7 ounces (198 grams) 60% cacao bittersweet chocolate baking remove peels, including white pith, in one piece. Cut peel pieces
bars*, chopped and divided lengthwise into ¼-inch-wide strips. Reserve fruit for another use.
3 tablespoons (42 grams) unsalted butter, softened 2. In a large high-sided saucepan, combine peel strips and cold
¼ cup (50 grams) granulated sugar water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat;
¼ cup (55 grams) firmly packed light brown sugar drain peel strips. Repeat procedure once.
1 teaspoon (1 gram) instant espresso powder* 3. In a clean large high-sided saucepan, bring sugar and 2 cups
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract (480 grams) water to a boil over medium heat, stirring until sugar
½ teaspoon (1 gram) packed orange zest dissolves. Add peel strips, arranging in a single layer; simmer,
¼ teaspoon kosher salt stirring occasionally, until peels are tender and white piths are
1 large egg (50 grams), room temperature somewhat translucent, 35 to 40 minutes.
½ cup (63 grams) all-purpose flour 4. Remove peel strips using a slotted spoon, and arrange in a single
2 tablespoons (10 grams) Dutch process cocoa powder layer on a wire rack placed over a parchment paper-lined rimmed
½ teaspoon (2.5 grams) baking powder baking sheet. Let cool for 1 hour or up to overnight. Reserve syrup
⅓ cup (59 grams) plus 1½ tablespoons (17 grams) lightly packed for another use.
chopped Candied Orange Peel (recipe follows), divided

1. In the top of a double boiler, combine 4 ounces (113 grams)

chocolate and butter. Cook over simmering water, stirring
occasionally, until melted and smooth. Remove from heat; add PRO TIP
sugars, espresso powder, vanilla, orange zest, and salt, whisking A 3½- to 4-inch round cutter can
until well combined. Let cool for 5 minutes. Whisk in egg. be used to form still-warm cookies
2. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, cocoa, and baking into a more circular shape, if
powder. Add flour mixture to chocolate mixture, stirring until desired. Place cutter around
just a few bits of flour remain. Fold in ⅓ cup (59 grams) Candied 1 cookie; gently move cutter in a
Orange Peel and 2 ounces (57 grams) chocolate. Cover and circular, counterclockwise motion
refrigerate for 30 minutes. while making contact with edges
3. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Line 2 rimmed baking sheets of cookie until desired shape is
with parchment paper. reached. Repeat as needed. •
4. Using a 3-tablespoon spring-loaded scoop, scoop dough (about
53 grams each), and roll into balls. Place at least 2 to 3 inches
apart on prepared pan; flatten each dough ball into a 2¼-inch
disk (about ½ inch thick), pressing together any cracks in edges if
necessary. Gently press remaining 1 ounce (28 grams) chocolate
and remaining 1½ tablespoons (17 grams) Candied Orange Peel
into tops of dough disks.
5. Bake until tops are lightly cracked, edges are set, and centers
look slightly underdone, about 10 minutes. Let cool on pan for
2 minutes. Carefully remove from pan, and let cool
completely on a wire rack. Store in an airtight container
for up to 3 days.

*We used Ghirardelli 60% Cacao Bittersweet

Chocolate Baking Bars and Williams Sonoma
Instant Espresso Powder.

january | february 2021 64

BAKING POSSIBLE
FROM PANDEMIC SHORTAGES TO FORGOTTEN INGREDIENTS, BRAVELY FACE ANY BAKING SCENARIO
WITH THIS BAKE FROM SCRATCH AND MACGYVER CROSSOVER
BY TRICIA MANZANERO
KELLY REDDING
ILLUSTRATIONS BY
SMART SUBSTITUTIONS
Bare baking aisles, egg shortages, and empty flour canisters—what seemed like a baker’s dystopia became a reality this past year.
Extraordinary scenarios aside, that baking urge can strike at any time, even when you’re out of an ingredient or when there’s a
blizzard outside. What to do when all the eggs are gone? Fret not, fearless bakers. We’ve assembled a list of common ingredients and
their substitutes to help prep you for anything. Of course, baking is a science. Remember that
recipe tweaks and pan swaps start as estimates, and results may vary. Use
this primer as a starting point. Equipped with an adventurous attitude, you
can—and will—get your bake on, no matter what.

WRONG FLOUR?
DON’T HAVE . . . SUBSTITUTION THINGS TO CONSIDER

Measure out 1 cup (125 grams) all-purpose Adding cornstarch helps mimic cake flour’s
flour; remove 2 tablespoons (16 grams) flour lower protein content by preventing gluten
CAKE FLOUR and replace with 2 tablespoons (16 grams) formation. Baked goods, however, may still
cornstarch. Sift flour mixture 4 to 5 times boast a heavier or coarser texture than those
before using. made with cake flour.

Whisk together 1 cup (125 grams) Self-rising flour is often made from lower-
all-purpose flour, 1½ teaspoons (7.5 grams) protein soft wheat. By using higher-protein
SELF-RISING FLOUR baking powder, and ¼ teaspoon (1.5 grams) all-purpose flour, you may need to increase the
salt. Mix only what you’ll use relatively soon. liquid in your recipe. Baked goods may turn out a
Baking powder grows less reactive over time. bit less tender, but they’ll be just as tasty.

Replace bread flour with all-purpose flour When swapping in all-purpose flour, your
using a 1:1 ratio, preferably by weight. If baked good may not have the same structure
BREAD FLOUR necessary, add 1 to 2 teaspoons (3 to and chew. Beyond some textural and visual
6 grams) all-purpose flour until desired differences, though, you should end up with a
texture is reached. delicious result.

Made from a mix of hard and soft wheat, Consider what you’re making. Using cake
all-purpose flour is a versatile baking flour for a yeasted bread likely isn’t ideal.
ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR workhorse. But when you’re all out, Meanwhile, bread flour used in all-purpose
substitute with the same amount of cake recipes may need a little more liquid. Choose
flour or bread flour by weight. wisely, adjusting as needed.

NO BROWN SUGAR?
DON’T HAVE . . . SUBSTITUTION THINGS TO CONSIDER

1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar plus Of all the mixing methods, we prefer the
LIGHT BROWN SUGAR 1 tablespoon (21 grams) molasses (not low-tech route. Using a bowl and a silicone
blackstrap) spatula, stir together sugar
and molasses until
well combined.
1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar plus
DARK BROWN SUGAR 2 tablespoons (42 grams) molasses (not
blackstrap)

january | february 2021 66

 NO BUTTER?
UNSALTED BUTTER NEUTRAL OIL
Butter contributes flavor, moisture, and tenderness to baked Neutral oils, like canola and vegetable, are mild in flavor and aroma.
goods. It can help in leavening, too. In cakes crafted via the Liquid at room temperature, they can help make baked goods
creaming method, like our control cake pictured above, unsalted seem super moist. Though there’s no set rule, start by substituting
butter yields a sturdy yet tender layer with a buttery richness. the butter in a recipe with three-fourths the amount of oil. So,
Unsalted butter is often favored, offering control over salt and for ½ cup (113 grams) butter, use 6 tablespoons (84 grams) oil.
spice levels. Salted butter, however, still boasts a following. For For our cake, we mixed the oil with our liquids before adding dry
recipes that call for salted butter, you can substitute unsalted using ingredients; layers came out moist, tender, and sweet, baking up
a 1:1 ratio, adding in ¼ teaspoon (1.5 grams) salt—or ½ teaspoon more level than our control, although not as buttery. For baked
(1.5 grams) kosher salt—for every ½ cup (113 grams) butter. goods like biscuits where solid butter is vital, though, we suggest
sticking to the recipe.
COCONUT OIL
Coconut oil is derived from the white “meat” of mature coconuts. SALTED BUTTER
Refined varieties have a neutral flavor and aroma, along with a Salted butter is known for its taste and longer shelf life. It can be
smoke point of 400°F (200°C). Unrefined oils—also called virgin substituted for unsalted butter using a 1:1 ratio. Note, though, that
or pure—retain coconut-forward qualities and a smoke point of salt content varies between brands. Depending on the recipe, skip any
350°F (180°C). Substitute coconut oil for unsalted butter using a added salt, or for every ½ cup (113 grams) butter, reduce salt by
1:1 ratio, making sure it’s in the same state (melted, softened, etc.); ¼ teaspoon (1.5 grams) (½ teaspoon [1.5 grams] kosher salt). Such
since coconut oil contains more fat and less water than butter, swaps should work for more-forgiving baked goods, like cookies, but
adjust liquids as needed. Made with refined coconut oil, our cake are less ideal for recipes like breads where exact ratios are key. Visually
was still sweet and tender but lacked any buttery flavor. Layers also and texturally, our salted butter cake closely resembled our control. Its
baked flatter and had a closer-knit crumb. sweet flavor, though, was a bit less balanced.

NO RIPE BANANAS?
DON'T HAVE . . . SUBSTITUTION THINGS TO CONSIDER

Quick "ripened" bananas: Preheat oven to 300°F This tip can be clutch when you need a quick baking
(150°C). Separate firm, ripe bananas; place, unpeeled, fix, but it won’t miraculously make green bananas
RIPENED BANANAS on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet. Bake until ripe. They’ll soften but still taste starchy.
soft and peels are blackened, 20 to 30 minutes. Let Reach for firm, ripe bananas for best
cool to room temperature, peel, and use as needed. results.

NO EXTRACT OR ALCOHOL?
DON’T HAVE . . . SUBSTITUTION

You can swap liqueur for extract but will often need more. For example, replacing 1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract
LIQUID EXTRACT could require 1 to 2 teaspoons (5 to 10 grams) bourbon. For 1 teaspoon (4 grams) almond extract, you may need 4 to
8 teaspoons (20 to 40 grams) amaretto. If adding a significant amount, adjust liquid ingredients.

Some 1:1 red wine substitutes include red grape juice, pomegranate juice, cranberry juice, and nonalcoholic red wine. For
RED WINE OR
white wine, options include white grape juice, apple juice, and nonalcoholic white wine. Regardless of what you choose,
WHITE WINE
keep in mind that these swaps may yield slightly different results.

67 bake from scratch

NO EGGS? Forget to buy eggs for the umpteenth time? No sweat. We’ve cracked into a slew of smart egg substitutes. For
best results, use these in recipes calling for 3 large eggs (150 grams) or less, keeping in mind that end results
may differ slightly from the original recipe.

EGG TOFU
Flavor-packed multitaskers, eggs act as binders, emulsifiers, leavening 1 large egg (50 grams) ≈ ¼ cup (59 grams) drained blended silken tofu
agents, and more. They’re a hard act to follow, but handy substitutes True to its name, silken tofu has a smooth, custard-like texture.
exist when you’ve run out or are just baking sans eggs. Note that not It’s relatively flavorless and makes a suitable egg substitute once
all options are created equal. We baked a basic brown sugar muffin as drained and puréed in a blender or food processor. Our tofu-
our control to help demonstrate the differences. infused muffins baked less brown than our control. Despite more
height than our pumpkin or banana tests, they still had a moist,
AQUAFABA slightly dense texture.
1 large egg (50 grams) ≈ 3 tablespoons (45 grams) aquafaba
Aquafaba is the liquid left over after cooking legumes. But for our COMMERCIAL EGG REPLACEMENTS
purposes, we’re talking chickpea liquid, the canned kind specifically. Follow package directions for how to replace 1 large egg (50 grams)
Besides binding powers, this starchy liquid can whip up and trap air. Commercial egg replacements are powdered products meant
We lightly whisked ours until foamy before adding to our recipe. The to mimic eggs’ role in baking recipes. Found in many grocery
chickpea smell and flavor dissipated post-bake, resulting in moist stores’ baking aisles, each brand has its own proprietary ingredient
muffins, with structure, flavor, and height comparable to our control. mix, so be sure to read labels before making your pick. Our egg
replacement test yielded golden-brown results, with a height,
PUMPKIN flavor, and texture quite like our control muffins.
1 large egg (50 grams) ≈ ¼ cup (62 grams) canned pumpkin
More than a fall baking favorite, unsweetened pumpkin purée FLAX SEED
offers a perennial egg substitute. Often made from a mix of 1 large egg (50 grams) ≈ 1 tablespoon (6 grams) ground flaxseed
winter squash, this canned staple binds beautifully but boasts little meal + 3 tablespoons (45 grams) water
leavening power. Note that it adds distinct color and some flavor It’s a simple mix: ground flax seed and water. A quick 5-minute rest
to baked goods, too. Mixed into our muffins, pumpkin purée added yields a “flax egg”—great for binding but lackluster when it comes
great structure, moisture, and a slight vegetal sweetness, along to leavening. True to form, our flax muffins baked squatter and less
with a deep amber hue. golden than our control. Structurally, though, they remained moist
and tender, with a lightly nutty flavor thanks to the omega-3-rich flax.
BANANA
1 large egg (50 grams) ≈ ¼ cup (57 grams) mashed ripe banana CHIA
That forgotten brown banana can be the egg stand-in you’re 1 large egg (50 grams) ≈ 1 tablespoon (10 grams) chia seeds
searching for. Peeled and mashed, ripe banana binds like a champ. + 3 tablespoons (45 grams) water
Expect it to add color and flavor to baked goods but little in the Combine chia seeds with water, and wait for 5 minutes. Like
leavening department. Though shorter than our control, our test magic, the mixture turns viscous and thick, mimicking a beaten egg
muffins were golden brown, moist, tender, and bursting with consistency. Chia seeds are grade-A binders, rich in omega-3 fatty
banana flavor. Not a banana fan? Applesauce offers a more neutral, acids. Leavening, however, is not their forte. In terms of height,
though still fruit-flavored, option. moisture, and browning, our chia muffins baked like our flaxseed batch,
with some added texture and earthy flavor from the crunchy seeds.
 NO BUTTERMILK? Don’t let a lack of buttermilk sour your baking plans. Some resourceful replacements could
save the day.
BUTTERMILK KEFIR
Buttermilk is favored for the tenderness and tang it gives baked 1 cup (240 grams) kefir = 1 cup (240 grams) buttermilk
goods. Our control quick bread was no exception. But for times
when you’re out, give one of the following swaps a try. GREEK YOGURT + WATER
⅓ cup (80 grams) whole milk plain Greek yogurt + ⅔ cup (160
MILK + LEMON JUICE grams) water = 1 cup (240 grams) buttermilk
¾ cup plus 3 tablespoons (225 grams) whole milk + 1 tablespoon
(15 grams) fresh lemon juice or white vinegar = 1 cup (240 grams) SOUR CREAM + WATER
buttermilk. Let stand for 5 minutes before using. ½ cup (120 grams) sour cream + ½ cup (120 grams) water = 1 cup
(240 grams) buttermilk
PLAIN WHOLE YOGURT + WATER
¾ cup (180 grams) plain full-fat yogurt + ¼ cup (60 grams) water
= 1 cup (240 grams) buttermilk. The amount of water needed to
achieve buttermilk consistency may vary depending on thickness
of yogurt.

WRONG YEAST?
DON’T HAVE . . . SUBSTITUTION THINGS TO CONSIDER

ACTIVE DRY YEAST Substitute 1:1 with instant yeast. For breads made by hand or in a stand mixer,
you can use instant and active dry yeast
interchangeably. Note that instant yeast
doughs may rise faster, while active dry
INSTANT YEAST Substitute 1:1 with active dry yeast. doughs may rise slower.

69 bake from scratch

SAVVY PAN
SWAPS
Adapting a recipe for the
pans you have on hand
can boil down to some
quick math

STEP 1
FIND YOUR PAN’S AREA
Area of a Square or Rectangular Pan = Length x Width
Area of a Round Pan = π x radius2
As a brief refresher, π ≈ 3.14, and the radius is half of a
round pan’s diameter. Make sure to measure from inner
STEP 2
edge to inner edge. So, for a 9-inch round cake pan, the FACTOR IN VOLUME
area is equal to 3.14 x (4.5 x 4.5), which is about 64 square
inches. Divide the area of your desired pan by the area of To do so, multiply the height of a
the original recipe’s pan to get a scaling factor. Multiply pan by its area. So, for a 2-inch-tall
this scaling factor by your original recipe amounts to yield 9-inch round cake pan, 64 square
adjusted ratios, scaled up or down, for your desired pan. inches x 2 inches = 128 cubic inches.
You can also find a pan’s volume in
Area of Desired Pan cups by filling it with water, 1 cup at
a time.
÷ Area of Original Pan
= Scaling Factor
From there, you can tweak, rounding or adjusting amounts
to make numbers cleaner. Need part of an egg? Whisk
one up, weigh it, and then scale out the portion needed by
weight.
STEP 3
PICK A GAME PLAN
Pans with similar areas and volumes make more ideal
swaps. You won’t need to change much in terms of
recipe ratios, baking temperatures, or cooking times.
It’s also safer to switch between high-sided pans (think
Bundt pan to loaf pan) or between shallower pans
(we’re talking 2-inch-tall round to 2-inch-tall square).

Regardless, recipes can vary. Be sure to fill pans

only halfway to two-thirds full. When facing a new
recipe, be safe and fill halfway. Bake off any extra
batter as mini loaves or cupcakes. Also, keep in mind
what you’re making. Butter and oil cakes, brownies,
blondies, and quick breads are more forgiving. But for
temperamental treats like angel food cakes, you may
want to stick to the recipe. Be bold but smart with
your baking, and delicious possibilities await. To get
started, we’ve crafted a list of popular pans and some
substitutes to help along the way. (See pages 71-72.)

january | february 2021 70

 POPULAR PAN
CONVERSIONS
AT A GLANCE

DON’T HAVE . . . SUBSTITUTION HOW-TO

2-INCH-TALL 8-INCH Scale up original recipe by 1.25, which means a 25%

2-inch-tall 9-inch round cake pan increase. Adjust numbers as needed. Make as directed,
ROUND CAKE PAN
with a potentially longer baking time.

Make recipe as directed; check for doneness earlier. If

9-inch cast-iron skillet baked good browns more than desired, try reducing oven
temperature by 25 degrees next time.

2-INCH-TALL 9-INCH Scale down recipe by 0.75—that’ll yield 75% of the

2-inch-tall 8-inch round cake pan original. Adjust numbers as needed. Make as directed,
ROUND CAKE PAN
with a potentially shorter baking time.

Place paper liners in cups, only filling two-thirds to

Standard 12-cup muffin pan three-fourths full. Bake at same temperature. Check
doneness earlier using recipe’s qualifiers.

With similar surface areas and volumes, an 8-inch

2-INCH-TALL 8-INCH
2-inch-tall 9-inch round cake pan square pan and a 9-inch round pan can typically be used
SQUARE BAKING PAN interchangeably.

2-INCH-TALL 9-INCH Make recipe as directed; check for doneness earlier.

10-inch cast-iron skillet If baked good browns more than desired, try reducing
SQUARE BAKING PAN oven temperature by 25 degrees next time.

For bakers who lack a 2-inch-tall 9-inch square baking

2-inch-tall 10-inch round cake pan pan, try a 2-inch-tall 10-inch round cake pan instead.
Make recipe as directed, being sure to keep an eye on it.

An 11x7-inch pan can be swapped for a 2-inch-tall

2-inch-tall 11x7-inch baking pan 9-inch square baking pan in a pinch. Make recipe as
directed, being sure to keep an eye on it.

71 bake from scratch

 LIGHT VS. DARK METAL PANS
Often the darker the metal, the faster
batter in contact will bake. If using a
darker metal pan, consider dropping
baking temperature by 25 degrees and
checking for doneness earlier.

DON’T HAVE . . . SUBSTITUTION HOW-TO

Divide batter between 2 (2-inch-tall) 8-inch square

2 (2-inch-tall) 8-inch square
13X9-INCH BAKING PAN baking pans. Bake at same temperature. Check
baking pans
15 minutes earlier than original recipe says.

Divide batter between 2 (2-inch-tall) 9-inch round cake

2 (2-inch-tall) 9-inch round cake
pans. Bake at same temperature. Check 15 minutes earlier
pans
than original recipe says.

Make recipe as directed; check for doneness earlier.

12-inch cast-iron skillet If baked good browns more than desired, try reducing
oven temperature by 25 degrees next time.

Potentially reduce oven temperature by 25 to

STANDARD 12-CUP MUFFIN PAN 8½x4½-inch loaf pan 50 degrees. Increase baking time as needed, using
doneness qualifiers in original recipe.

Potentially increase oven temperature by 25 to

8½X4½-INCH LOAF PAN Standard 12-cup muffin pan 50 degrees. Expect cooking time to decrease; bake
until a wooden pick comes out clean.

Divide batter between loaf pans, filling only two-thirds

10- OR 12-CUP BUNDT PAN 2 (8½x4½-inch) loaf pans full. Bake at same temperature, checking 15 minutes
earlier than original recipe says.

Divide batter between loaf pans, filling only two-thirds

15-CUP BUNDT PAN 2 (9x5-inch) loaf pans full. Bake at same temperature, checking 15 minutes
earlier than original recipe says.

january | february 2021 72

 CRAFTY KITCHEN TOOLS
Whether baking at a vacation rental or at the house of that friend who barely cooks, we’ve all found ourselves in a kitchen with an oven
but not much else. Armed with these creative culinary tricks, you’ll be ready to bake no matter what kitchen you find yourself in.

NO MIXER? NO ROLLING PIN?

WHIP OUT A DANISH DOUGH WHISK REACH FOR A WINE BOTTLE
Say goodbye to clumped-up spoons and dough-crusted hands. When without a rolling pin, an empty, straight-sided wine bottle
Equipped with overlapping circular coils, this whisk brings doughs makes a great stand-in. Liquor, vinegar, and other similarly shaped
and batters together quickly. In some cases, kneading may still vessels will do, too. Their cylindrical bodies and long, straight sides
be necessary, but the whisk’s sleek design and small surface area offer just the right shape and leverage. Just nix any labels and give
incorporate flour and mix-ins efficiently, minimizing lumping and bottles a wash, or wrap in plastic wrap if you're tight on time.
making cleanup easier. Handheld and perfectly portable, it’ll be Sans liquid works best, but full, unopened bottles will also work
your new on-the-road baking go-to. in a pinch.

NO ROUND CUTTER? NO PASTRY BAGS?

GO FOR A ROUND DRINKING GLASS PICK RESEALABLE PLASTIC BAGS
For a makeshift round cutter, turn to your cupboard. The round Have things to pipe, but lack a proper pastry bag? A resealable
rim of a drinking glass, particularly a thin one, works wonders. Just plastic quart or gallon bag can get you through. Simply fill and twist
give it a quick dip in flour for a clean cut and release. Grab glasses the top shut and then give one bottom corner a snip; a ½-inch
of different widths to craft a variety of sizes and then simply bake opening works well for heartier piping, while a ¼-inch opening is
and decorate as desired. fit for more-delicate drizzles. To ensure it doesn’t burst while you
work, pick heavy-duty freezer-style bags and stick to softer mixes
like frostings and glazes.

73 bake from scratch

NO PIE WEIGHTS? NO MUFFIN PAN?
OPT FOR UNCOOKED BEANS OR RICE MOVE FOR MASON JAR BANDS
When there’s a crust to blind bake but you can’t find your pie Good for more than just lids, Mason jar bands can double as a
weights, grab a 2-pound bag of dried beans or uncooked rice. makeshift muffin pan. Simply place bands, right side up and evenly
Poured into your parchment paper- or foil-lined crust, these shelf- spaced, on a rimmed baking sheet. Place a sturdy paper or foil
stable pantry staples nestle into nooks and weigh your crust down cupcake liner in each and then fill and bake as you would normally.
properly, whether you’re using a regular or deep-dish pie plate. You When there’s just a bit of extra batter to bake, this hack becomes
can also bag them up post-bake and reuse them another day. particularly handy.

NO PASTRY BLENDER? NO SERRATED KNIFE?

FIND TWO FORKS DIG FOR UNFLAVORED DENTAL FLOSS
Cutting in butter (or other fat) sans pastry blender is super simple. Dental floss, in some cases, has us swearing off serrated knives. It
One or two forks will do the trick. Use the tines to cut in fat until can be pulled tight and used to cut soft cakes, or wrapped, crossed,
pieces reach the right size. If needed, the forks can then be used to and pulled taut around a cinnamon roll log for super clean slices.
add in wet ingredients. Although you may need a bit more elbow Just be sure to use the unflavored kind to avoid any unwanted
grease, this method is still efficient and easy. menthol taste.

THE ESSENTIAL: A TRUSTY KITCHEN SCALE

For precision and consistency, we’re big believers in baking by gram weight. Fortunately, they now
make collapsible, super portable scales, so you can bake by weight, even away from home. •

january | february 2021 74

 FO R
pane LL I N G
FA
angi ING R E D I E N T S:

r
S I M P L E UR

f
T A F E W W I T H F O
O L V E S JUS E F I L L I N G
E A N D INV V E R S A TIL N E S.
T OM A K A TE T H I S A NG I P A
E A S Y L E B R U P F R
G I P A N E IS S U G A R . CE D J A Z Z E D-
N G , F R AN U L A T ED I O N A L AN
U S FILL I D G RA N T R A DI T
U XU R I O G GS , A N G BO T H
C H A L T T E R , E T U R I N
F O R S U A L M O N D S, B U D R E C I P E S, F E A
D E
G R O U N A N G I PA N E-F I L L
FR

PHOTOGRAPHY BY
JIM BATHIE
RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BY
TRICIA MANZANERO
FOOD STYLING BY
MEGAN LANKFORD
STYLING BY LUCY FINNEY
Tiramisù Frangipane Thumbprint Cookies
page 81
 Mini Galettes des Rois
page 82

january | february 2021 78

 Berry Frangipane Cake
page 83
79 bake from scratch
Frangipane-Jam Buns
page 84
TIRAMISÙ FRANGIPANE 2 cups (250 grams) all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted
THUMBPRINT COOKIES ½ cup (43 grams) Dutch process cocoa butter, room temperature*
Makes 22 to 24 cookies powder 1 large egg yolk (19 grams), room
¼ teaspoon (1.25 grams) baking powder temperature
These cookies transform all the rich flavors ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt 2 teaspoons (10 grams) dark rum
of tiramisù into a bite-size serving. Dutch Rum Frangipane Filling (recipe follows) ¼ teaspoon (1 gram) almond extract
process cocoa powder creates an incredibly Mascarpone Buttercream (recipe follows) ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
soft dough that boasts roasted coffee Garnish: Dutch process cocoa powder
flavors. Hiding beneath creamy Mascarpone 1. In a small bowl, stir together flour and
Buttercream you’ll find a rum frangipane. 1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Line sugar until well combined. Add butter and
2 baking sheets with parchment paper. all remaining ingredients; stir until well
1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter, 2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with combined, kneading together by hand if
softened the paddle attachment, beat butter and necessary.
¾ cup plus 1 tablespoon (162 grams) sugar at medium speed until creamy, about
granulated sugar 2 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl. *Unlike softened butter, room temperature
3 tablespoons (18 grams) dark-roast 3. In a small bowl, stir together instant butter should provide no resistance when
instant coffee granules coffee and 1 tablespoon (15 grams) water pressed with a finger. At this point, the butter
1 tablespoon (15 grams) water until granules dissolve. Add coffee mixture, is soft enough to easily combine with your
2 large egg yolks (37 grams), room egg yolks, and vanilla bean paste to butter other ingredients.
temperature mixture; beat at medium speed just until
1 teaspoon (6 grams) vanilla bean paste combined. MASCARPONE BUTTERCREAM
4. In a medium bowl, sift together flour, Makes about 2 cups
cocoa, and baking powder; whisk in salt.
With mixer on low speed, gradually add ⅔ cup (150 grams) unsalted butter,
flour mixture to butter mixture, beating softened (see Note)
just until combined and stopping to ⅛ teaspoon kosher salt
scrape sides of bowl. Scoop dough by 1⅓ cups (160 grams) confectioners’ sugar
2 tablespoonfuls (about 29 grams each), 1½ teaspoons (7.5 grams) heavy whipping
and roll into balls. Place about 2 inches cream
apart on prepared pans. Using the back of 5 ounces (142 grams) mascarpone
a ½-teaspoon dry measuring spoon, gently cheese*, softened (see Note)
make an indentation in center of each ball.
5. Scoop 1 teaspoon (5 grams) Rum 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
Frangipane Filling, and roll into a ball; place the paddle attachment, beat butter and
ball in indentation of 1 dough ball, and press salt at medium speed until creamy, about
into a rounded mound that completely fills 1 minute, stopping to scrape sides of bowl.
indentation. Repeat with remaining Rum With mixer on low speed, gradually add
Frangipane Filling and remaining dough confectioners’ sugar, beating just until
balls. combined. Beat in cream. Increase mixer
6. Bake, one batch at a time, until edges speed to medium, and beat until fluffy,
are dry and set, 9 to 12 minutes. Let cool 3 to 4 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of
on pan for 5 minutes. Remove from pan, bowl. Fold in mascarpone by hand just until
and let cool completely on wire racks. combined. (Do not overmix; mascarpone
7. Spoon Mascarpone Buttercream into will start to break down.) Use immediately.
a pastry bag fitted with a ½-inch round
piping tip (Wilton No. 2A). Pipe about Note: For best results, it’s important that the
4 teaspoons (about 15 grams) buttercream butter and mascarpone are both softened and
in center of each cooled cookie; using at about the same temperature. An instant-
a small offset spatula, spread and swirl read thermometer inserted into the center
buttercream as desired. Garnish with of each is an easy way to gauge when they’re
cocoa, if desired. ready to go. Our butter and mascarpone were
at about 64°F (18°C). Mascarpone that gets
RUM FRANGIPANE FILLING too warm may be more likely to break. Try to
Makes about ½ cup handle the buttercream as little as possible;
overworking it could cause the mascarpone to
⅔ cup (64 grams) superfine blanched start breaking down.
almond flour
2 tablespoons (24 grams) granulated *We used Vermont Creamery Mascarpone.
sugar
MINI GALETTES DES ROIS 4. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment
Makes 5 (4-inch) galettes paper. PATTERN PERFECTION
5. Divide dough in half. On a lightly floured A simple guide to scoring an elegant
The galette des rois, or French king cake, is surface, roll one half into a 12x9-inch herringbone pattern
a traditional French pastry made to celebrate rectangle (about ⅛ inch thick), lightly
the Christian feast day of Epiphany, January flouring surface and dough as needed to
6, commemorating the day the three kings prevent sticking. Using a 4-inch round
arrived to visit the infant Jesus. Combining an cutter, cut 5 circles. Place 2 inches apart
incredibly easy recipe for rough puff pastry and on a prepared pan. Repeat procedure with
a simple almond filling, these beauties will make remaining dough and remaining prepared
you the reigning champion of puff pastry. We pan.
also show you how to rule those gorgeous regal 6. In a small bowl, stir room temperature
patterns with just a few simple cuts. butter until creamy. Add almond flour,
sugar, 1 egg yolk (19 grams), almond
1¼ cups (284 grams) unsalted butter extract, remaining 1½ teaspoons 1. To create a traditional scalloped edge,
2¼ cups (281 grams) plus 1½ teaspoons (4.5 grams) all-purpose flour, and using your fingertip, press down dough
(4.5 grams) all-purpose flour, divided remaining ⅛ teaspoon salt; stir until well edge; using the back of a small knife,
2⅛ teaspoons (6 grams) kosher salt, divided combined. simultaneously make a notch just to the
½ cup (120 grams) ice water 7. Using the tines of a fork, dock 5 dough side of your fingertip as if marking its
3 tablespoons (42 grams) unsalted circles all over. Spread 2 tablespoons location. Move fingertip to other side of
butter, room temperature (about 30 grams) frangipane on each notch, and repeat procedure all the way
½ cup (48 grams) superfine natural docked circle, leaving a ½- to ¾-inch around edge.
almond flour border around edges. Place whole almond
¼ cup (50 grams) granulated sugar (if using) in frangipane on 1 circle. Brush
2 large egg yolks (38 grams), divided dough edges with room temperature water.
¼ teaspoon (1 gram) almond extract Top with remaining dough circles, lining
1 whole almond (optional) up edges and pressing down to seal with
1 teaspoon (5 grams) water, room bottom circles. Refrigerate for 30 minutes.
temperature, plus more for brushing 8. Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C).
9. In a small bowl, whisk together
1. Cube butter, and freeze for 30 minutes. 1 teaspoon (5 grams) room temperature
2. In the work bowl of a food processor, water and remaining 1 egg yolk (19 grams).
place 2¼ cups (281 grams) all-purpose 10. Using your fingertip, press down
flour and 2 teaspoons (6 grams) salt; pulse dough edge; using the back of a small 2. Using a small knife, score 3 evenly
until combined. Add frozen butter; pulse knife, simultaneously make a notch just spaced, parallel lines across top to create
until butter is dime-size. With processor to the side of your fingertip as if marking 4 columns. (Be careful not to cut through
running, add ½ cup (120 grams) ice water its location. Move fingertip to other side pastry.) Score evenly spaced diagonal
in a slow, steady stream just until mixture of notch, and repeat procedure all the lines all the way down one column.
forms a ball. Turn out dough onto a lightly way around edge. Repeat with remaining
floured surface; shape into a 6-inch square. galettes. Score desired design on top of
Wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at each galette. Brush tops with egg wash,
least 30 minutes. being careful not to let egg wash drip down
3. On a lightly floured surface, roll dough sides. Cut 5 to 6 small discreet slits in
into a 15x7-inch rectangle, lightly flouring scored design to allow steam to escape.
surface as needed to prevent sticking. Fold 11. Bake for 15 minutes. Rotate pans,
dough in thirds, like a letter, and rotate reduce oven temperature to 375°F
90 degrees. Repeat procedure twice. Wrap (190°C), and bake until deep golden
in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least brown, 10 to 15 minutes more, re-opening
20 minutes. slits in tops if needed. Serve warm or let 3. In adjacent column, score diagonal
cool completely on a wire rack. lines that mirror your first set to create
a slight “V” shape. Repeat procedure in
outer columns, only scoring up to
PRO TIP ¼ inch from dough edges. (The “V” shape
In France, it’s tradition to bake a fève (bean) into the galette. The lucky guest to find will be reversed.) Brush tops with egg
the fève in their slice got to be roi (king) for the day. Today’s fèves include a range of wash, being careful not to let egg wash
trinkets and figurines of various sizes, shapes, and materials. For ours, we opted for an drip down sides. Cut 5 to 6 small slits
edible, affordable, and still very enjoyable almond, but feel free to substitute another discreetly in scored design to allow steam
favorite nut or piece of dried fruit. to escape.

january | february 2021 82

BERRY FRANGIPANE CAKE ¾ teaspoon (3 grams) vanilla extract of bowl. Add extracts, beating just until
Makes 1 (8-inch) cake ¼ teaspoon (1 gram) almond extract combined.
1 cup (125 grams) all-purpose flour 4. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour,
Almond-scented cake batter is swirled with ¾ teaspoon (3.75 grams) baking powder baking powder, and salt. With mixer on
traditional frangipane, which adds nutty flavor ¼ teaspoon kosher salt low speed, gradually add flour mixture
and tenderness to the crumb. Studded with ¼ cup (60 grams) whole milk, room to butter mixture alternately with milk,
berries and gently dusted with confectioners’ temperature beginning and ending with flour mixture,
sugar, this cake is simple but gorgeous. As beating just until combined after each
a bonus, this recipe calls for frozen berries, ½ cup (120 grams) drained thawed addition and stopping to scrape sides of
meaning this cake is always in season. frozen mixed berries (large berries bowl. Using a small offset spatula or the
halved if necessary), patted dry back of a spoon, spread 1 cup (about
Frangipane: 2 tablespoons (15 grams) sliced almonds 238 grams) batter into prepared pan.
⅔ cup (150 grams) unsalted butter, room Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting Using a 1½-tablespoon spring-loaded scoop
temperature* (see Notes), alternately dollop 1 cup (about
1½ cups (144 grams) superfine natural 1. Preheat oven to 325°F (170°C). Spray a 240 grams) frangipane and remaining
almond flour light-colored 8-inch metal springform pan batter in a checkerboard-like pattern onto
¾ cup (150 grams) granulated sugar with baking spray with flour. Line bottom batter in pan; layer some batter on top of
¼ cup (31 grams) all-purpose flour and sides of pan with parchment paper. frangipane dollops and vice versa. (It’s OK
1 large egg (50 grams) 2. For frangipane: In a medium bowl, stir that dollops don’t go all the way to edges of
1 large egg white (30 grams) butter until creamy. Add almond flour, pan.) Drag a butter knife through center of
1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt sugar, all-purpose flour, egg, egg white, each dollop a few times to swirl together.
1 teaspoon (4 grams) almond extract salt, and almond extract; stir until well Tap pan on a kitchen towel-lined counter
combined. Cover and set aside. several times to settle batter.
Batter: 3. For batter: In the bowl of a stand mixer 5. Spoon remaining frangipane into a pastry
½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, fitted with the paddle attachment, beat bag; cut a ½-inch opening in tip. Pipe onto
softened butter and sugar at medium speed until batter in pan, spreading with a small offset
¾ cup (150 grams) granulated sugar fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes, stopping to scrape spatula. Press berries into frangipane;
1 large egg (50 grams), room sides of bowl. Beat in egg; scrape sides sprinkle with almonds.
temperature 6. Bake until edges are golden brown,
top feels dry and set, and an instant-read
thermometer inserted in center registers
202°F (94°C) to 210°F (99°C),
52 minutes to 1 hour, loosely covering
with foil to prevent excess browning, if
necessary. Let cool in pan for 5 minutes.
Remove sides of pan, and let cool
completely on base of pan on a wire rack.
Dust with confectioners’ sugar before
serving.
*Unlike softened butter, room temperature 2. Switch to the dough hook attachment.
PRO TIP
butter should provide no resistance when Beat at low speed until smooth and elastic,
If you don’t have a ¼-cup glass jar,
pressed with a finger. At this point, the butter 6 to 8 minutes. (Dough will be on the
you can also use a 2¼-inch-diameter
is softened enough to easily combine with stiffer side at this point.) Add butter,
⅓-cup dry measuring cup or even just
your other ingredients. 1 tablespoon (14 grams) at a time, beating
your fingertips to make wells in dough
until combined after each addition, 6 to
rounds.
Notes: Make sure to clean your scoop 8 minutes total, and stopping to scrape
as needed when scooping your batter sides of bowl and dough hook. (Dough may
and frangipane. Alternatively, use look slightly broken during this process but HAZELNUT-ALMOND FRANGIPANE
2 (1½-tablespoon) spring-loaded scoops. will come together later.) Increase mixer Makes about ¾ cup
speed to medium-low; beat until a smooth,
A wooden pick test does not work well for elastic dough forms, about 6 minutes, ¼ cup (50 grams) granulated sugar
this cake; even when finished baking, the stopping to scrape sides of bowl and dough 3 tablespoons (42 grams) unsalted
frangipane may still stick slightly to a wooden hook. Turn out dough onto a clean surface, butter, room temperature*
pick. and knead 4 to 5 times. Shape dough into a ⅓ cup (32 grams) superfine blanched
smooth round. almond flour
FRANGIPANE-JAM BUNS 3. Spray a large bowl with cooking spray. ⅓ cup (32 grams) finely ground hazelnut
Makes 12 buns Place dough in bowl, turning to grease top. flour
Cover and let rise in a warm, draft-free ¼ cup (31 grams) all-purpose flour
Classic almond frangipane gets an update place (75°F/24°C) until doubled in size, 1 large egg white (30 grams)
with the addition of hazelnut flour in these 1 to 1½ hours. ¼ teaspoon (1 gram) almond extract
luscious sweet buns. A crunchy vanilla- 4. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Line ⅛ teaspoon kosher salt
scented streusel tops these soft treats, which 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.
are brimming with homemade frangipane and 5. Punch down dough; cover and let stand 1. In a medium bowl, stir together sugar
tart raspberry jam. for 5 minutes. Turn out onto a clean and butter until well combined. Add
surface, and divide into 12 portions (about almond flour and all remaining ingredients,
2½ cups (313 grams) all-purpose flour, 50 grams each). Shape 1 portion into a stirring until well combined.
divided smooth ball, pinching any seams to seal.
¼ cup (50 grams) granulated sugar (Keep remaining dough covered with *Unlike softened butter, room temperature
1 (0.25-ounce) package (7 grams) plastic wrap to prevent it from drying out.) butter should provide no resistance when
instant yeast* Repeat procedure with remaining dough. pressed with a finger. At this point, the butter
1¾ teaspoons (5.25 grams) kosher salt Press or roll each dough ball into a 3½-inch is softened enough to easily combine with
⅓ cup (80 grams) warm whole milk circle, and place 1½ to 2 inches apart on your other ingredients.
(120°F/49°C to 130°F/54°C) prepared pans. (Dough rounds may shrink
2 large eggs (100 grams), room slightly.) Cover and let rise in a warm, VANILLA STREUSEL
temperature draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until puffed Makes ½ cup
½ teaspoon (3 grams) vanilla bean paste and dough holds an indentation when
6 tablespoons (84 grams) unsalted poked, 30 to 40 minutes. 2½ tablespoons (30 grams) granulated
butter, softened 6. Using a floured ¼-cup glass jar, make sugar
Hazelnut-Almond Frangipane (recipe a 2¼-inch-wide, ¼- to ½-inch-deep well 2 tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted
follows) in center of each dough circle. (See PRO butter, melted
¼ cup (75 grams) seedless raspberry jam TIP.) Place 1 tablespoon (about 17 grams) ¼ teaspoon (1.5 grams) vanilla bean
1 large egg yolk (19 grams) Hazelnut-Almond Frangipane into each paste
1 teaspoon (5 grams) water well, pressing to completely and evenly fill. ⅛ teaspoon kosher salt
Vanilla Streusel (recipe follows) 7. In a small bowl, whisk jam until smooth. ⅓ cup (42 grams) all-purpose flour
Spoon about 1 teaspoon (6 grams) jam in
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted center of frangipane on each bun, gently 1. In a medium bowl, stir together sugar,
with the paddle attachment, beat 1 cup spreading into a circle as desired. melted butter, vanilla bean paste, and salt.
(125 grams) flour, sugar, yeast, and salt 8. In another small bowl, whisk together Stir in flour until well combined. •
at low speed until combined, about egg yolk and 1 teaspoon (5 grams) water.
30 seconds. Add warm milk, and beat just Brush dough with egg wash. Crumble
until combined. Add eggs and vanilla bean Vanilla Streusel over buns.
paste; beat at medium-low speed until 9. Bake until golden brown and an
combined, about 1 minute, stopping to instant-read thermometer inserted in
scrape sides of bowl. With mixer on low center of bun registers 190°F (88°C),
speed, gradually add remaining 1½ cups 10 to 14 minutes. Serve warm or at room
(188 grams) flour, beating just until temperature.
combined.
*We used Red Star® Quick Rise Yeast .
january | february 2021 84
 bake better
es
Bro wn i
CHOOSE YOUR OWN BROWNIE ADVENTURE—CAKEY, FUDGY, SWIRLED, OR “ALL THE WAY”—WITH OUR
CUSTOMIZABLE, PERSONALIZED LOOK AT THE CLASSIC CHOCOLATE BAKED GOOD

PHOTOGRAPHY BYWILLIAM DICKEY

LAURA CRANDALL
RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BY
STYLING BY MARY BETH JONES
 Cakey
brownies
page 91

87 bake from scratch

Peanut Butter-Chocolate Chunk Cakey Brownies
page 91
 Fudgy
brownies
page 92

89 bake from scratch

Cheesecake-Swirled Fudgy Brownies
page 92
CAKEY BROWNIES 15 minutes. Using excess parchment as ½ cup (68 grams) roughly chopped
Makes about 9 brownies handles, remove from pan, and let cool dry-roasted peanuts
completely on a wire rack before cutting ½ cup (85 grams) 60% cacao semisweet
If you’re looking for a delicate crumb, bold into bars. Store in an airtight container at chocolate chunks
cocoa flavor, and lofty height, our Cakey room temperature for up to 4 days. Peanut Butter Frosting (recipe follows)
Brownies are the answer. Cocoa powder, Garnish: roughly chopped dry-roasted
not melted chocolate, gives these brownies PRO TIP peanuts, 60% cacao semisweet
their chocolate flavor, meaning they’re less Each of these recipes was made in an chocolate chunks
dense and less fudgy, with a matte, slightly 8-inch square baking pan, but if you’re
crunchy top. We added milk to help tenderize 1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray
baking for a bigger crowd—or appetite—
the batter without weighing down the crumb. these recipes can easily be doubled to an 8-inch square baking pan with cooking
While still warm, this brownie will have a bake in a 13x9-inch baking pan. Simply spray. Line pan with parchment paper,
closer crumb texture, but as it cools, the double the recipe ingredients and, as letting excess extend over sides of pan.
crumb becomes more cake-like, soft and 2. In a medium bowl, whisk together sugars
a rule, increase your bake time by 5 to
spongy. Think of this as a brownie version of 10 minutes. Don’t be nervous about and melted butter until smooth and well
devil’s food cake—satiny and cocoa-rich but the bake time wiggle room. Just be sure combined.
light as air. 3. In another medium bowl, whisk together
to use our visual test for doneness: a
wooden pick inserted in center should flour, cocoa, baking powder, salt, and
1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar come out with a few moist crumbs. espresso powder.
¾ cup (165 grams) firmly packed dark 4. Slowly add eggs to sugar mixture,
brown sugar whisking until combined. Whisk in vanilla.
¾ cup (170 grams) unsalted butter, PEANUT BUTTER-CHOCOLATE Add flour mixture in three additions
melted CHUNK CAKEY BROWNIES alternately with milk, beginning and
1¼ cups (156 grams) all-purpose flour Makes about 9 brownies ending with flour mixture, stirring just
1 cup (85 grams) unsweetened cocoa until combined after each addition. Fold
powder, sifted Also known as the “All the Way Brownie,” in peanuts and chocolate chunks. Spread
¾ teaspoon (3.75 grams) baking powder this recipe takes our cakey base brownie to batter in prepared pan.
¾ teaspoon (2.25 grams) kosher salt the nth power, with chocolate chunks and 5. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in
¾ teaspoon (1.5 grams) instant espresso peanuts stirred into the batter and a luscious center comes out with a few moist crumbs,
powder Peanut Butter Frosting spread on top. To 35 to 40 minutes. Let cool in pan for
3 large eggs (150 grams), room make it your own luxurious masterpiece, 15 minutes. Using excess parchment as
temperature and lightly beaten consider swapping in your favorite chocolate handles, remove from pan, and let cool
2 teaspoons (8 grams) vanilla extract and nuts (keeping the mix-ins at 1 cup max). completely on a wire rack.
½ cup (120 grams) whole milk, room You could also toss in Candied Orange Peel 6. Spread Peanut Butter Frosting on top of
temperature (page 64) and chopped dark chocolate as cooled brownies. Garnish with peanuts and
your mix-ins, and use a silky ganache topping chocolate chunks, if desired, and cut into
1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray instead of the Peanut Butter Frosting. With bars. Refrigerate in an airtight container
an 8-inch square baking pan with cooking this brownie, the chocoholic sky is the limit. for up to 6 days. Let come to room
spray. Line pan with parchment paper, temperature before serving.
letting excess extend over sides of pan. 1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar
2. In a medium bowl, whisk together sugars ¾ cup (165 grams) firmly packed dark PEANUT BUTTER FROSTING
and melted butter until smooth and well brown sugar Makes about 1½ cups
combined. ¾ cup (170 grams) unsalted butter,
3. In another medium bowl, whisk together melted ½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter,
flour, cocoa, baking powder, salt, and 1¼ cups (156 grams) all-purpose flour softened
espresso powder. 1 cup (85 grams) unsweetened cocoa ½ cup (128 grams) creamy peanut butter
4. Slowly add eggs to sugar mixture, powder, sifted ½ teaspoon (2 grams) vanilla extract
whisking until combined. Whisk in vanilla. ¾ teaspoon (3.75 grams) baking powder 1 cup (120 grams) confectioners’ sugar
Add flour mixture in three additions ¾ teaspoon (2.25 grams) kosher salt
alternately with milk, beginning and ¾ teaspoon (1.5 grams) instant espresso 1. In a medium bowl, whisk butter until
ending with flour mixture, stirring just powder smooth. Add peanut butter and vanilla,
until combined after each addition. Spread 3 large eggs (150 grams), room whisking until well combined. Slowly whisk
batter into prepared pan. temperature and lightly beaten in confectioners’ sugar until smooth and
5. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in 2 teaspoons (8 grams) vanilla extract well combined. Use immediately.
center comes out with a few moist crumbs, ½ cup (120 grams) whole milk, room
35 to 40 minutes. Let cool in pan for temperature
FUDGY BROWNIES completely on a wire rack before cutting 4. Slowly add eggs to chocolate mixture,
Makes about 9 brownies into bars. Refrigerate in an airtight whisking until combined. Whisk in vanilla.
container for up to 6 days. Let come to Fold in flour mixture just until combined.
If our Cakey Brownies are like satin, then room temperature before serving. Spread two-thirds of batter (about
think of our Fudgy Brownies as velvet. Melted 2⅔ cups [about 760 grams]) in prepared
chocolate and butter transform the texture CHEESECAKE-SWIRLED FUDGY pan. Spoon Cheesecake Layer on top
of these brownies into pure decadence, with BROWNIES of batter, smoothing flat with an offset
the boost of fat from the chocolate’s cocoa Makes about 9 brownies spatula. Spoon remaining batter in large
butter enriching the crumb. An extra egg also dollops (about 48 grams each) on top of
bumps up the brownies’ quota of fat. We still To double down on the extravagance of our Cheesecake Layer. Using a wooden pick,
added a touch of cocoa powder to round out Fudgy Brownies, we added a silky cheesecake swirl layers together.
the flavor but nixed the milk, as there’s plenty swirl. We’ve kept the Cheesecake Layer 5. Bake until brownie on top is shiny,
of fudgy richness already present. With a classic vanilla, but you could go bold with center is set, and a wooden pick inserted
glossy top, dense interior, and chewy finish, flavors. Considering swapping in almond, in brownie comes out with a few moist
these brownies are a natural crowd-pleaser. peppermint, or even rum extract for the crumbs, 55 minutes to 1 hour and
vanilla. You can also stir in ½ teaspoon of your 5 minutes, covering edges with foil after
8 ounces (226 grams) 60% cacao favorite spice or spice mix, from chai spice 40 minutes of baking to prevent excess
bittersweet chocolate, chopped mix to Chinese five-spice powder. Whatever browning. Let cool in pan for 15 minutes.
¾ cup (170 grams) unsalted butter, you choose, these brownies receive full marks Using excess parchment as handles,
cubed in both texture and presentation. remove from pan, and let cool completely
1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar on a wire rack before cutting into bars.
¾ cup (165 grams) firmly packed dark 8 ounces (226 grams) 60% cacao Refrigerate in an airtight container for up
brown sugar bittersweet chocolate, chopped to 6 days. Let come to room temperature
1¼ cups (156 grams) all-purpose flour ¾ cup (170 grams) unsalted butter, before serving.
3 tablespoons (15 grams) unsweetened cubed
cocoa powder, sifted 1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar *We used Heilala Pure Vanilla Extract.
¾ teaspoon (2.25 grams) kosher salt ¾ cup (165 grams) firmly packed dark
¾ teaspoon (1.5 grams) instant espresso brown sugar CHEESECAKE LAYER
powder 1¼ cups (156 grams) all-purpose flour Makes about 1½ cups
4 large eggs (200 grams), room 3 tablespoons (15 grams) unsweetened
temperature and lightly beaten cocoa powder, sifted 8 ounces (226 grams) cream cheese,
2 teaspoons (8 grams) vanilla extract ¾ teaspoon (2.25 grams) kosher salt softened
¾ teaspoon (1.5 grams) instant espresso ½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar
1. Preheat oven to 325°F (170°C). Spray powder 2 teaspoons (16 grams) all-purpose flour
an 8-inch square baking pan with cooking 4 large eggs (200 grams), room 1 large egg (50 grams)
spray. Line pan with parchment paper, temperature and lightly beaten 1½ teaspoons (6 grams) vanilla extract
letting excess extend over sides of pan. 2 teaspoons (8 grams) vanilla extract*
2. In the top of a double boiler, combine Cheesecake Layer (recipe below) 1. In a medium bowl, whisk cream cheese
chocolate and butter. Cook over simmering until smooth. Add sugar and flour, and
water, stirring occasionally, until melted 1. Preheat oven to 325°F (170°C). Spray whisk until combined; scrape sides of bowl.
and smooth. Turn off heat, and whisk in an 8-inch square baking pan with cooking Add egg, whisking well. Whisk in vanilla.
sugars until well combined. (Mixture will spray. Line pan with parchment paper, Use immediately.
not be completely smooth.) Remove from letting excess extend over sides of pan.
heat, and let cool slightly, 3 to 5 minutes. 2. In the top of a double boiler, combine
3. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, chocolate and butter. Cook over simmering
cocoa, salt, and espresso powder. water, stirring occasionally, until melted
4. Slowly add eggs to chocolate mixture, and smooth. Turn off heat, and whisk in
whisking until combined. Whisk in vanilla. sugars until well combined. (Mixture will
Fold in flour mixture just until combined. not be completely smooth.) Remove from
Spread batter in prepared pan. heat, and let cool slightly, 3 to 5 minutes.
5. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in 3. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour,
center comes out with a few moist crumbs, cocoa, salt, and espresso powder.
50 to 55 minutes. Let cool in pan for
15 minutes. Using excess parchment as
handles, remove from pan, and let cool
 Mike Johnson, the baker behind Mike Bakes NYC, just came out with his
game-changing cookbook, Even Better Brownies (Page Street Publishing,
2020). We tapped into his brownie brilliance, asking him for his top tips
on how to make brownies all the better.

QUALITY CHOCOLATE IS KING. “Skip the generic baking

chocolate, and spring for high-quality chocolate—both chocolate chips
and baking bars. It’ll transform both the taste and texture of your final
baked good.”

BABY YOUR BAKE TIME. “Brownies are sensitive creatures. Check

your brownies 5 minutes before the called-for bake time, especially if
your oven runs hot, because 5 minutes can mean the difference between
Mike’’ s moist brownies and dry brownies.”

MAX OUT YOUR MIX-INS AT 1 CUP. “Whether its chopped

Golden chocolate, nuts, or candy, stir in no more than 1 cup of mix-ins to your
base brownie batter. Much more and you’ll start effecting how evenly
Rules for your brownies bake. Keep in mind that you can always sprinkle some
extra mix-ins on top of the still-warm brownies if you’re craving more.”

Better USE VANILLA AND ESPRESSO FOR OOMPH. “Coffee—espresso

powder in particular—adds incredible depth to chocolate. Quality vanilla
Brownies ups the ante, adding a contrasting yet complementary note to the cocoa.”

PICTURE-PERFECT BROWNIES COME FROM PATIENCE

AND PRECISION. “Wait for your brownies to cool, because slicing
hot brownies is painful and messy. When I first started photographing
my brownies, I used a ruler to create perfect cuts, and those neat edges
photograph beautifully. Finally, clean your knife between cuts so you
can really see your mix-ins and the luxurious texture of
the brownies.” •
BAKERS , MAKERS ,
MOVERS &
SHAKERS YOU
NEED TO KNOW
MEET THE BLACK MAVERICKS CHANGING THE BAKING BUSINESS,
WHETHER THROUGH STARTING THEIR OWN BUSINESS OR
BREAKING NEW GROUND IN THE WORLD OF PASTRY.
BY SANDI SHRIVER AND KYLE GRACE MILLS
 THE GAME for years, inspired by her favorite flavor for a blondie. “I wanted a
blondie to taste like those incredible pecan pralines you can find in
CHANGER New Orleans,” she says. With this blondie ideal packed into each
AUZERAIS BELLAMY golden square, it’s unsurprising that Blondery turned into a smash
BLONDERY | BROOKLYN, NEW YORK sensation, picking up considerable steam during the COVID-19
pandemic shutdowns and stay-at-home orders. For Auzerais, the
Bite into one of Auzerais Bellamy’s gourmet blondies and you’ll end game isn’t necessarily a brick-and-mortar bakery in Brooklyn,
wonder how something so simple and comforting could also be New York. Instead, she relishes the freedom of a homegrown bakery
so exquisite and refined. This butterscotch-rich baked good is an that ships nationally and can launch pop-ups across the country.
encapsulation of Auzerais’s accomplished career as a pastry chef, “Blondery can go anywhere, reach anyone,” she says. At the time
a 10-year saga in the fine dining circuit including with the Thomas of this interview, Auzerais had 3,000-plus people on Blondery’s
Keller Restaurant Group. When she met the fine dining glass waitlist. She’s expanded her baking operations to a commercial
ceiling, she broke through not by playing the game but by changing bakery space, fighting to keep up with the hot demand. “I feel like
it entirely. She started her own business, Blondery, a bakery the blondie has become the forgotten pastry,” Auzerais notes.
originally based out of her home kitchen, with four signature flavors Thanks to Blondery, it’s making a long-overdue comeback.
available for order: Pecan and Salted Caramel, Brooklyn Blackout,
Cinnamon Sugar, Birthday Cake. The classic Pecan and Salted FOLLOW: blondery.com
Caramel Blondie is the base recipe she’s been serving to her family INSTAGRAM: @blondery

97 bake from scratch

 THE PIONEER Not only did Tamara help pave the way for baking bloggers with
her drive and ingenuity, she also explored the world of podcasting
TAMARA ECKLES
relatively early. Jem of the South Radio provided an alternate venue
JEM OF THE SOUTH | ATLANTA, GEORGIA
where Tamara could network and reach fellow bakers, educating and
inspiring those with similar dreams. Starting in 2011, she recorded
Tamara Eckles is a blogging expert, a mentor, and a pioneer. More
more than 50 interviews with industry front-runners like chef
than a decade has flown by since Tamara first created her baking
Padua Player, a.k.a. SugaChef, and royal icing superstar Julia Usher.
blog, Jem of the South, which unleashed her passion for baking and
It takes a true leader to lift others up in the pursuit of their own
teaching others. With the blog, she found a place where she could
passion, and without people like Tamara, our community centered
encourage her followers to “discover something sweet” because, as
around baking wouldn’t be what it is today. For bloggers, podcasters,
she says, “happy memories and togetherness are often centered
and bakers alike, Tamara is an inspiration—a true gem.
around sweets.” It may be difficult to imagine today, but Tamara
entered the blogging world at a time when Twitter and personal
FOLLOW: jemofthesouth.com
websites were among the only options to share online baking
INSTAGRAM: @jemofthesouth
content, and Instagram and Pinterest were just entering the scene.

january | february 2021 98

 THE BAKING book brimming with the scientific explanations of baking. As a past
contestant on the Great American Baking Show, Cheryl had the
SCIENTIST opportunity to showcase her talent and strengthen her knowledge
CHERYL NORRIS of baking in different environments. So, how does Cheryl balance a
BAKES BY BROWN SUGAR full-time career with baking every chance she can get? To her, it’s
PORTLAND, OREGON
not a difficult equation at all. She loves engineering and she loves
baking and teaching others,
By day, Cheryl Norris works as a reliability engineer for a local
so it simply adds up to a
eletric utility, but by night, she transforms into a baking scientist,
life filled with passion—and
turning her kitchen into a laboratory devoted to the study of flour
sugar.
and sugar. Her love for science is evident in everything she does,
including her blog, Bakes by Brown Sugar. Even Cheryl’s base recipe
FOLLOW:
for Shortbread Cookies is an equation, using 12 ounces of flour,
bakesbybrownsugar.com
8 ounces of butter, and 4 ounces of granulated sugar to create pure
INSTAGRAM:
cookie perfection. As a self-proclaimed “baking science geek,” she
@bakesbybrownsugar
likes “understanding what makes a recipe work” so she can optimize
and share the information. It’s no wonder then why Cheryl’s
favorite cookbook is The Cake Bible by Rose Levy Beranbaum, a

THE POUND
CAKE HEIRESS
APRIL MCCLUNG
EMILY’S HEIRLOOM POUND CAKES
BIRMINGHAM, ALABAMA

Raising $14,400 in nine months in order to give your children the

chance to study abroad is no ordinary feat. But then again, April
McClung, founder of Emily’s Heirloom Pound Cakes, is no ordinary
baker. She is a caring entrepreneur who believes passion, love, and, of
course, butter are the secret ingredients to success and the perfect
pound cake. Using an heirloom recipe passed down two generations
from grandmother “Big Mama” Emily, April finds that she can
“bring back precious memories with just one bite.” Using only the
best ingredients, she is often told that her cakes represent how all Hawaiian, and Lemon Blueberry Buttermilk. Looking for the perfect
pound cakes should taste. Near perfection, her treats are light as air, pairing with your pound cake? Emily’s Heirloom Pound Cakes now
moist, and have just the right amount of sweetness. Another bonus: offers fresh bags of coffee for order—perfectly blended to match
the pound cakes have a shelf life of 15 days at room temperature or the delicate richness of the cakes. For online orders, choose from
20 to 30 days in the refrigerator. But let’s all be honest here—once various flavors and sizes of pound cakes, or check out the coffee-
you have a taste, keeping the cake around that long is the ultimate and-cake combos.
game of self-control. The Original Heirloom Cake is the number
one seller, but April also creates different flavors, like Key Lime, FOLLOW: emilysheirloompoundcakes.com
INSTAGRAM: @emilyshpc

99 bake from scratch

CHERYL NORRIS’S
MEYER LEMON
POPPY SEED CAKE
 THE pan de coco and semitas de yema. Both are delicious icons in their
own right, but Bryan has introduced them to a new base in the form
SOURDOUGH of fervent sourdough bakers. Recently, Bryan worked on a video
EXPLORER companion to his smash cookbook, offering visual learners a new
BRYAN FORD way to recreate his sourdough recipes. “I wanted to offer a literal
ARTISAN BRYAN | MIAMI, FLORIDA hands-on experience for people who bought the cookbook,” Bryan
says. There’s much more on Bryan’s horizon, and you can bet it’ll be
When Bryan Ford’s cookbook, New World Sourdough, first came coming with a heavy dusting of flour and a well-fed starter.
out, it seemed to be perfect timing. The world was rediscovering
the sourdough art during COVID-19 pandemic shutdowns and FOLLOW:

stay-at-home orders, and this baker with Honduran roots and artisanbryan.com
a New Orleans, Louisiana, upbringing had just the cookbook to INSTAGRAM:

whet appetites. It became an instant best seller, providing Bryan @artisanbryan

the opportunity to donate 5% of profits to various charities that
make a much-needed difference, like Black Women’s Blueprint.
The cookbook is a grand culmination of Bryan’s work on his blog,
Artisan Bryan, a deep dive into sourdough and bread-baking from
various cultures and cuisines. Above all, Bryan hopes to introduce
sourdough into a new, diverse context. “There are so many different
cultures that have taken sourdough and made it their own. And
there are so many breads that you can transform into sourdough,”
he says. Take his sourdough takes on two South American classics,

101 bake from scratch

 THE well as ones that are “traditional with a twist.” One look at Britney’s
gorgeous website and you would think that it’s a full-time gig, but
TRAVELING this entrepreneur seems to have boundless energy. With a graduate
BAKER degree in clinical research organization and management, Britney
BRITNEY BROWN- spends her days as a cancer researcher and uses her free time to
CHAMBERLAIN develop new recipes and perfect her photography—when she is
BRITNEY BREAKS BREAD not traveling, of course. At the time of this interview, Britney was
POTOMAC, MARYLAND also creating her first e-cookbook, a compilation of recipes (and
wine pairings) aimed to guide readers through a breathtaking meal
Consider Britney Brown-Chamberlain your virtual travel companion, for guests. Travel along with Britney on her blog or check out her
bringing you to faraway places through thoughtfully created recipes Instagram and newly released e-cookbook for continued inspiration.
inspired by world cuisines. Having visited more than 33 countries,
this jet-setter draws inspiration for her blog, Britney Breaks Bread, FOLLOW: britneybreaksbread.com
from each region she encounters. From Blueberry Challah French INSTAGRAM: @britneybreaksbread
Toast with Earl Grey Cream Cheese Icing to Peaches and Cream
Filled Churros, you’ll find recipes that blend flavors and cultures as
january | february 2021 102
 ESTELLE COLORED GLASS
STEPHANIE SUMMERSON HALL
 THE with a glass cake stand, a classic piece inspired by the ones Estelle
would serve a from-scratch vanilla pound cake on after a family meal.
ENTREPRENEUR Stephanie sent the prototype to her new business partner: a glass
STEPHANIE SUMMERSON manufacturer in Poland that had been creating beautiful work for
HALL more than 100 years. She then sent the manufacturers colors, not
ESTELLE COLORED GLASS
from the typical color chart, but photos of haute couture pieces, from
CHARLESTON, SOUTH CAROLINA
a lavender gown by Elie Saab to a rose-colored dress from Gucci. “All
of my colors are inspired by fashion,” Stephanie says. You can believe
The first notion Stephanie Summerson Hall had for Estelle Colored
it as you admire the luxurious hues of her cake stands, flashing from
Glass occurred when she was settling into her new home, attempting
intense royal blue to demure blush pink. “At the end of the day, I
to build a “forever collection” of furniture and household items
wanted to create something that felt like jewels you could display on
that would be kept forever and passed down as heirlooms. She was
your table, accompanying your homecooked meal,” Stephanie says.
struggling to find pristine colored glass like her grandmother Estelle
used to collect from antiquing, jewels that always shown so brightly
FOLLOW: estellecoloredglass.com
in her china cabinet. In an instant, Stephanie knew that if she wanted
INSTAGRAM: @estellecoloredglass
the glass she dreamed about, she’d have to create it herself. It began

THE SUGAR
ARTIST
MAURICE SHELTON
BLACK ROSE PASTRIES
GARY, INDIANA

Many bakers were first introduced to Maurice Shelton as one of the

victorious pastry chefs on the fast-paced baking competition show
Sugar Rush. But this was just one of the many golds he’s taken home
in the sugar art department. Whether it’s crafting an edible likeness
of Lady Gaga’s ensemble from the Met Gala or baking and decorating
a 10-tier masterpiece covered in more than 70 sugar roses, Maurice
treats sugar as the ultimate artistic medium. Affectionately called
Chef Blāque (pronounced “blake”) by his friends, Maurice runs
Yosemite National Park, all the while nurturing his son’s precocious
an online bakery, Black Rose Pastries, when he isn’t traveling the
talent. Since Pierre’s first taste of the world of sugar art, he’s gone
country competing and judging baking competitions. During
on to win first place in the Junior Sculpted Cake division at the
the COVID-19 pandemic, Black Rose Pastries has been a sweet
San Diego Cake Competition in California. “Now, whenever I go
blessing to the Chicago, Illinois, area and neighboring communities,
to an expo, everyone is asking, ‘Where’s mini me?’ because Pierre
meeting the demand for celebratory wedding and birthday cakes as
has become my constant shadow. It’s amazing to know the sugar
well as providing simple baked-to-order comfort. While Maurice is
community has embraced him the same way they’ve embraced me.”
on the road for competitions, he’s often accompanied by his son,
Pierre. “I made it my goal when I became a father to always be
FOLLOW: blackrosepastries.com
active in my son’s life. To me, that meant including him in my life
INSTAGRAM: @chefblaque
in pastry,” Maurice says. On a recent competition circuit, Maurice
took Pierre on a grand road trip from Austin, Texas, all the way up
San Francisco, California, with stops in Las Vegas, Nevada, and
january | february 2021 104
 THE JAM
GENIUS
ASHLEY ROUSE
TRADE STREET JAM COMPANY
BROOKLYN, NEW YORK

In a world of preconceived notions, Ashley Rouse hopes her jams

will delightfully surprise you. Trade Street Jam Co.’s curated jam
selection is anything but expected, offering everything from
golden-hued Smoked Yellow Peach Jam to the pastel pink Plum &
Rose Jam. The flavors are an ode to Ashley’s professionally trained
palette, like combining sweet fig and strawberry with fiery chipotle.
The other secret to her success lies in the small batches she and
her team create, each one getting the love and care any homemade are endless ways to bake with her delicious jams, Ashley claims there
jam would receive. On top of the scrupulous love, each Trade Street are few things that beat the classic combo of sourdough and jam.
jam is certified vegan. “Our decision to make the jams vegan was “There’s not much better in this world than a freshly baked slice of
about promising people that each of our jams is packed with only sourdough bread served with jam. Except for maybe an apple cake
fruit and a ton of flavor,” Ashley says. As for Ashley herself, half made with Blackberry Mulled Merlot Jam baked into the center,”
of the joy with Trade Street Jam Co. comes from the surprises she she says with a laugh.
gets. “I’m a trained chef, so I felt like nothing much could surprise
me with the way people use my jams. But people are still coming up FOLLOW: tradestjamco.com
with completely original ways to use it,” she says. Although there INSTAGRAM: @tradestjamco

choices daily. Each recipe is crafted with only the highest-quality

THE BOW TIE ingredients, like the Texas-shaped pecan shortbread cookie made
BAKER with locally sourced butter and pecans. Stop by the Kessler Baking
CLYDE GREENHOUSE Studio storefront if you are in the area or peruse the online shop.
KESSLER BAKING STUDIO Clyde ships nationwide, and with decadent treats like heart-shaped
DALLAS, TEXAS
brownies and blondies,
you can order up the
What do a baker, a bow tie, and a 1920s bungalow all have in perfect Valentine’s treat
common? They represent the bakery known as the Kessler Baking for your loved ones near
Studio based in Dallas, Texas. This sweet shop is owned and operated and far.
by Clyde Greenhouse, bow tie aficionado and 2020 James Beard
Award nominee for Outstanding Baker. Clyde says it all started FOLLOW:
with just one fateful recipe: a chocolate chip pecan cookie he made kesslerbakingstudio.com
for his sisters. Who knew that a rich, pecan-studded cookie could INSTAGRAM:
set into motion a series of events that included stepping away from @kesslerbakingstudio •
a successful corporate career and entering into the passion-filled
world of baking? Now, six years later, with more than 30 different
recipes (and more than 200 bow ties), Clyde offers different flavor

105 bake from scratch

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origin of a classic

Benne Wafers
A LOOK AT THE ICONIC CHARLESTON,
SOUTH CAROLINA, BISCUIT, FROM ITS
AFRICAN ROOTS TO ITS AMERICAN
HOME IN THE HOLY CITY
BY NNEKA M. OKONA
C
rispy, crunchy, thin benne wafers are a common culinary a myriad of Lowcountry dishes—things like soups and stews—to
currency in the Lowcountry city of Charleston, South thicken the consistency. Crushed sesame seeds create a fragrant
Carolina. Both savory and sweet, benne wafers can vary oil. The leaves of the benne plant are said to aid in indigestion when
in size and breadth. Some appear like saucers the size of a thin mixed in a concoction of water until they become a slurry and slimy.
chocolate chip cookie, so thin they look like one bite will cause
them to splinter in crumbs. Others are more bite-size, tiny, cute And slowly, the benne wafers themselves were born. It’s a toss-
circles dotted with the benne seeds that give the wafers their up timewise concerning when the benne wafer first emerged as a
signature flavor. Even what color benne wafers are varies—some the crispy, crunchy, salty, and slightly nutty snack to be chomped on
color of a deep caramel and others taking a lighter, cream hue. in Charleston. The common belief is that the wafers experienced a
genesis during the antebellum period due to a lack of viability of the
But as varied in appearance as benne wafers are, at heart, they have benne oil to replace the more common olive oil. Home bakers used
a singular connection: enslaved Africans who found themselves this to their advantage to utilize an ingredient available in surplus.
thousands of miles away from home in a new, unknown place. One of the earliest signs of both these home-based and brick-
Benne (pronounced “benny”) is the Bantu word for “sesame,” and and-mortar food entrepreneurs was an article in a 1908 edition
in simple explanation, the benne seed is a varietal of an African of the Charleston Evening Post. Within that year, Eleanor Williams
sesame seed. Like many other crops and vegetables—such as sweet started selling not only benne wafers she’d baked in her home but
potatoes, okra, peanuts, and black-eyed peas—they traveled across also benne brittle, benne sticks, and benne squares from her shop,
Atlantic waters sometime during the early 1700s. Onslow’s Candy Store, located on the ever-popular King Street in
downtown Charleston. As the end of World War I crept by, more
Botanist Dorothea Bedigian, Ph.D., of Missouri Botanical Garden and more business owners started selling baked goods starring
has long written and researched about this history. For African benne. It is said that by the spring of 1950, benne wafers could be
Ethnobotany in the Americas, published in 2012, she wrote an purchased from Macy’s department store in New York City. This
introductory chapter about the Old-World connection of sesame, trend continued as purveyors became renowned for this crispy,
or its scientific genus Sesamum.

Though no reliable historical records exist to provide irrefutable

evidence, common assumption is that the benne seeds themselves
were brought to the Americas from the Caribbean, specifically
Jamaica or Barbados. The majority of the enslaved Africans who
arrived in Lowcountry South Carolina are thought to have hailed
from these countries, which makes this assumption plausible. Over
time, these seeds were planted and harvested by enslaved Africans,
becoming an integral part of Lowcountry cuisine and a heritage
food of the Gullah and Geechee people.

Benne seeds were more than mere sesame seeds, however. Legend
has it that eating them was thought to bring the eater good luck
and fortune. Sometimes benne seeds were given as gifts for this
very reason. These seeds are also found quietly as an ingredient of
 Benne Wafers
crunchy, sweet, and savory snack, sold in clear crinkly
bags—the same crinkly bags they’re also sold in today.

Making these wafers is a rather easy feat and takes

minimal ingredients. Combining toasted benne seeds
with flour, butter, brown sugar, eggs, and vanilla with
milk makes a light, airy dough that is then baked until it Makes about 50 crackers
is crisp. Leaving them to cool on the baking sheet once
Recipe by Toni Tipton-Martin
they are browned yields a crisper wafer. Removing them
to let cool on a wire rack makes for a softer, more pliable Before the advent of baking powder and soda, beating biscuit dough
benne wafer. with a wooden stick, hammer, or heavy rolling pin with up to one
thousand whacks—a minimum of half an hour—to tenderize the
An important distinction is that most of the widley dense paste was a common pathway to small, crisp “beaten biscuits.”
available commercial benne seeds—which are commonly Remembered in the Slave Narratives as “the grandfather of all
used to make benne wafers—have a milder taste. afternoon tea refreshments,” beaten biscuits held a place of honor in
black cookbooks for generations, presumably because white families
Heirloom benne was revived through the efforts of the
in the Old South always considered beaten biscuits a luxury, and a
company Anson Mills, known through the years to bring hostess’s pride. The historian Arturo Schomburg’s list of party dishes
more elusive or long-forgotten Southern varietals back included them. Street vendors in New Orleans sold them, and beaten
to the open market. They sell both raw heirloom benne biscuits are the very first recipe in Abby Fisher’s dignified collection
seeds and a benne flour for baking needs. Begin your from 1881, What Mrs. Fisher Knows about Old Southern Cooking.
journey of discovery into this seed of the past through
These crackers, perfect for dips and spreads, became easier to make
Anson Mills, a true portal into the greater African
with the introduction of baking soda and baking powder, and took
diaspora and a treat as delicious as it is historical. on an African character when cooks stirred in sesame seeds—called
benne by African slaves—which arrived in the Sea Islands in the early
eighteenth century and were cultivated in their hidden gardens for
nearly a century. By the time the authors of Charleston Receipts
published the recipe for the ethereal, seed-studded crackers in
the mid-1950s, to which they gave the title Benne (Sesame) Seed
“Cocktailers,” the New York Times assured readers that this cocktail
biscuit would “revolutionize cocktail parties.”

109 bake from scratch

I serve benne wafers in a sweetgrass basket I purchased from a basket coarse crumbs. Sprinkle the toasted seeds over the mixture. Stir
weaver near Boone Hall plantation in Mt. Pleasant, South Carolina. with a fork to distribute evenly. Make a well in the center, add
Weaving the baskets is a craft handed down through generations the milk, and use a fork to blend the dry ingredients and milk,
of Gullah/Geechee women that enabled their African ancestors to sprinkling over more milk as needed to make a stiff, rough dough.
winnow rice or carry water from a brook, stream, or well to the kitchen 5. Scrape the dough onto a lightly floured board. With floured
house. It’s my way of reconciling our artisanal past with its burdens. hands, knead the dough 15 to 20 seconds, until smooth. Divide
the dough in half. Using a floured rolling pin, roll it out to slightly
½ cup (64 grams) white sesame seeds thinner than a dime. Cut the dough with a 1-inch biscuit cutter
2 cups (250 grams) all-purpose flour, plus more for the work and transfer the rounds to the prepared baking sheets with a
surface spatula. Re-roll the scraps, handling as lightly as possible, and cut
1 teaspoon (5 grams) baking powder out more rounds. Prick each round 2 times with a fork and sprinkle
½ teaspoon (3 grams) salt, plus more for finishing with additional salt, if desired.
½ cup (96 grams) shortening or lard, cut into ½-inch dice and 6. Bake 10 minutes, until the dough rises slightly. Rotate the pans
chilled, plus more for greasing the baking sheet and continue to bake until light brown, 5 to 10 minutes longer.
6 tablespoons (90 grams) cold whole milk, plus more if Immediately remove to wire racks to cool. Store the wafers in a
necessary tightly covered container for 2 to 3 weeks. Before serving, reheat
the wafers 2 to 3 minutes in a 250°F oven.
1. Preheat the oven to 425°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with
parchment paper. Note: To freeze benne wafer dough, shape it into a log and wrap it in
2. Spread the sesame seeds in an even layer in the pan and toast parchment paper. To bake it, thaw slightly, slice it into ⅛-inch rounds
until lightly browned and fragrant, about 5 minutes, stirring and bake as directed.
occasionally to prevent scorching. Watch carefully as the seeds
burn easily. (The seeds also smoke as they toast.) Remove from Reprinted with permission from Jubilee: Recipes from Two Centuries
the oven to cool completely, but leave the oven on and reduce the of African American Cooking by Toni Tipton-Martin, copyright
temperature to 350°F. © 2019. Published by Clarkson Potter, a division of Penguin
3. When the baking sheet has cooled to room temperature, lightly Random House, LLC.
grease it or line with a clean sheet of parchment paper. Grease or
line a second sheet for quick baking.
4. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and
salt. Sprinkle the shortening pieces over the dry ingredients. Using
your fingertips, a pastry blender, or two knives, cut the shortening What Mrs. Fisher Knows About Old Southern Cooking
into the dry ingredients, blending until the mixture resembles Abby Fisher was one of the first Black cookbook authors in the United
States. About 100 copies of her seminal cookbook, What Mrs. Fisher
Knows About Old Southern Cooking, were published in 1881. The cook-
book featured recipes of her famous preserves and pickles, which she
sold at her San Francisco, California, business, Mrs. Abby Fisher & Co.
Though Abby could neither read nor write, each recipe was written in
her voice, dictated to close friends in the San Francisco community.
The cookbook was rediscovered in 1984 and reprinted in 1995, and
remains one of the greatest records of the Black culinary tradition. •

january | february 2021 110

fast ²x baking

Cinnamon-Sugar WHEN DOUGHNUT

CRAVINGS STRIKE ON
Doughnut Bites A BUSY DAY, THESE
SUGARED BITES WILL
FIT THE BILL
CINNAMON-SUGAR DOUGHNUT BITES lightened in color and well combined, 1 to 2 minutes,
Makes 12 servings stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Add ¼ cup (57 grams)
melted butter, oil, and vanilla bean paste; beat until well
Offering the sweet magic of a cake doughnut minus all the combined, 1 to 2 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of
hassle of frying, these doughnut bites are baked in your bowl.
trusty muffin pan. Then they’re covered in melted butter 3. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, salt, baking
before a luxurious roll in cinnamon-spiced sugar. The result? soda, nutmeg, and ¼ teaspoon cinnamon. With mixer on
A crunchy-sweet exterior matched by a tender, moist low speed, add flour mixture to sugar mixture alternately
interior, just like a doughnut. with buttermilk, beginning and ending with flour mixture,
beating just until combined after each addition and
½ cup (110 grams) firmly packed light brown sugar stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Divide batter evenly
1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar, divided among prepared cups (about ¼ cup [about 70 grams]
1 large egg (50 grams), room temperature each). Firmly tap pan on a kitchen towel-lined counter
¾ cup (170 grams) unsalted butter, melted and divided several times to settle batter and release any air bubbles.
3 tablespoons (42 grams) vegetable oil 4. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out
1½ teaspoons (9 grams) vanilla bean paste* clean, 12 to 18 minutes. Let cool in pan for 5 minutes.
2¼ cups (281 grams) all-purpose flour Remove from pan, and let cool completely on a wire rack.
1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt 5. In a small shallow bowl, place remaining ½ cup
½ teaspoon (2.5 grams) baking soda (113 grams) melted butter.
½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground nutmeg In a medium shallow bowl, stir together remaining
1¾ teaspoons (3 grams) ground cinnamon, divided ¾ cup (150 grams) granulated sugar and remaining
1 cup (240 grams) whole buttermilk, room 1½ teaspoons (3 grams) cinnamon. Roll a doughnut
temperature in melted butter; roll in cinnamon sugar. Repeat with
remaining doughnuts. Serve immediately.
1. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). Spray a 12-cup muffin
pan with cooking spray. *We used Heilala Vanilla Bean Paste. •
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle
attachment, beat brown sugar, ¼ cup (50 grams)
granulated sugar, and egg at medium speed until

january | february 2021 112

 talk to trish

TRISH ON DECK
OUR BAKING AND PASTRY EDITOR, TRICIA MANZANERO, IS HERE TO ANSWER
ALL YOUR BURNING—LITERALLY OR FIGURATIVELY—BAKING QUESTIONS.
HERE IS OUR INAUGURAL COLLECTION OF Q&AS FROM YOU, OUR READERS, TO TRICIA, OUR PRO!
What does “punch it down” actually weighing them before adding them in. rather than set when they’re supposed
look like for cinnamon rolls and breads? That way, you can adjust as needed and to. Invest in an oven thermometer to
—LINDSAY MAYFIELD, ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI ensure you use the right amount. investigate. Too-soft butter or dough
can also mean a faster spread. Same
TRISH: “Punching down” a dough
Why are my brownies always done goes for over-creaming your butter.
accomplishes a few things. It releases
around the edges and liquid in the Try refrigerating your dough before
some gas bubbles produced by yeast
middle? baking, starting at 30 minutes and
during the dough’s first rise. This
—LINDSAY ROBERTS, TEMPERANCE, MICHIGAN adjusting as needed. If you’re not
deflation prevents gluten strands from
already, try ungreased baking sheets,
overstretching (and subsequently TRISH: While gooey brownies are great,
and, of course, be sure they’re cool
collapsing) and can help give the bread a raw brownies are something else
before use. You can also analyze your
finer grain. To boot, sugars and moisture entirely. Why the runny middle? The
recipe ratios. Too little flour, too
get redistributed along with yeast cells, culprit might be your oven—it may not
much butter, or an excess of sugar,
providing fuel for the second rise. To be running as hot as it should. In our
for example, could all cause cookies to
“punch down,” create a fist with your test kitchen, we are total nerds when
spread. Try adding or reducing one of
hand, and using your knuckles, gently it comes to using thermometers, and
these, 1 to 2 tablespoons at a time, as
push vertically down (without twisting) our ovens are no exception. An oven
needed.
into the center of the dough. Pull the thermometer can help you make sure
edges of the dough to the center and your model is really set at the right
How long should I mix and what
then turn the dough over. Cover the temperature. For further wisdom, I
texture am I looking for when I make
dough and let it rest for 5 to 10 minutes talked to Laura Crandall—the talented
scones or biscuits?
before shaping for the final rise. test kitchen guru behind our Bake
—GENIE, GLENDALE, CALIFORNIA
Better Brownies feature (page 85). She
Does egg size matter in baking? always recommends the wooden pick TRISH: Restraint is key when it comes
—SKYE REZAC, VALPARAISO, NEBRASKA test rather than relying on a timer or to mixing scone or biscuit dough. Once
just outer appearance. Using a wooden you’ve cut your cold fat into your
TRISH: Yes! Most recipes—and every
pick, prick the center of the brownie—if flour mixture and added your liquid
recipe developed and tested for Bake
it comes out with moist crumbs, you’re ingredients, use a fork to stir just until
from Scratch—call for large eggs.
good to pull it. If it’s still liquid, continue dry ingredients are moistened. Your
Sans eggshell, the various sizes and their
to bake your brownie, testing every dough may—and often should—still
approximate weights are medium
5 minutes until it has moist crumbs, not look shaggy, dry, or rough in parts.
egg (47 grams), large egg (50 grams),
gooey batter, on the pick. Resist that urge to keep stirring, or
extra-large egg (56 grams), and jumbo
sad, tough baked goods could ensue.
egg (60 grams). Thirteen grams
Why do my cookies always spread and Instead, turn your dough out onto a
separate the smallest and largest
flatten? surface, lightly flouring if needed, and
sizes—a tiny number at first. However,
—THAMAYA, KANDY, SRI LANKA gently fold or pat it just until it comes
if you’re making a recipe that calls
together. You’re aiming for a cohesive
for four eggs, that discrepancy is TRISH: Several factors could cause flat
mass, not necessarily for all ingredients
quadrupled. What was only 13 grams’ cookies. Like our brownie question
to be super smooth and thoroughly
difference is now 52 grams—that’s above, an improperly calibrated oven
combined. From there, simply shape,
like adding or losing an extra egg in could be to blame. If your oven is
cut, and bake as directed. •
the batter! If you’ve got anything on actually running at a lower temperature
hand other than large eggs, I suggest than called for, your cookies will spread

Have a baking question for Trish? Email us at bakefromscratch@hoffmanmedia.com and your question could be featured in our next issue!

113 bake from scratch