Circular Bulletin 188 1959

Essentials of
BLUEBERRY CULTURE
By Stanley Johnston

MICHIGAN STATE UNIVERSITY

Agricultural Experiment Station
Department of Horticulture
EAST LANSING
 CONTENTS
Page
Distribution of the Blueberry 3
Choosing the Location for Blueberry Growing 4
Selecting the Plantation Site 5
Soil Requirements 5
Avoid Frost Injury 8
Varieties 9
Propagation 10
Building the Propagating Frame 10
Use of Plastic Covers on Propagating Frames 11
Location of Propagating Frames 12
Making and Storing the Cuttings 12
Material in Which to Root Cuttings and Plantings 13
Watering, Sanitation, and Ventilation 15
Use of Fertilizer in Propagating Frames, Storing Cuttings over
Winter, Planting and Caring for the Nursery 16
Field Planting 17
Replanting in Old Fields 17
Provisions for Pollination, Cultivation for Cover Crops 18
Irrigation, Sod Culture, and Mulching 19
Adding Organic Matter to the Soil 20
Use of Fertilizers 20
Pruning 21
Growing Blueberries in the Home Garden 22
Insects 25
Diseases 26
Production 27
Harvesting 28
Grading, Packing and Marketing 29
Conclusion 30
 Essentials of Blueberry Culture
By STANLEY JOHNSTON

Ting, for it was isin this country in great abundance

HE BLUEBERRY EVEN MORE AMERICAN than turkey for Thanksgiv-
and was highly
prized by the Indians before the white settlers arrived.
Because of the abundant supply of wild blueberries, little was
done to cultivate or improve this fruit for nearly 300 years after the
Pilgrims landed. In 1906 investigations were started by the United
States Department of Agriculture, under the direction of the late Dr.
F. V. Coville, whose work in determining the soil requirements of the
blueberry and in breeding and selecting varieties of unusually large
size was of first importance in developing the cultivated blueberry
industry.
Much credit for improving the highbush blueberry must also be
given to Miss Elizabeth White of Whitesbog, New Jersey, who made
selections of outstanding wild bushes and who, in cooperation with
Dr. Coville, established the first commercial plantings of hybrid blue-
berries. A few of Miss White's selections served as parent stock in
blueberry breeding work, and one, Rubel, has been an outstanding
commercial variety.

DISTRIBUTION OF THE BLUEBERRY

Many species of the blueberry are native to different parts of the
United States. These can be divided into two general groups or types,
highbush and lowbush.
The lowbush species are generally found in the more northern
states or highlands farther south. Large quantities of wild lowbush
blueberries are harvested for market in many places. However, the
supply is decreasing each year.
Most of the experimental and improvement work with the blue-
berry has been done with the highbush type, especially the northern
species, Vaccinium australe. This species is foimd growing native
in Michigan about as far north as the lower end of Saginaw Bay, al-
though apparently it can be grown in suitable soil as far north as Lud-
ington or Traverse City on the western side of the state adjacent to
Lake Michigan. It is also established in central and southern New
York; in the New England states, particularly in southern New Hamp-
shire, Vermont and Maine; in the vicinity of Puget Sound in Washing-
ton; extensively in New Jersey, and as far south as North Carolina.
The cultivated blueberry industry has been founded on the north-
ern highbush blueberry and the largest producing states are New Jer-
sey, Michigan and North Carolina, with smaller acreages in the New
England states, New York, Pennsylvania, Maryland, Delaware, Ohio,
Indiana, Oregon and Washington.
The total acreage of cultivated blueberries in the United States is
probably between 18,000 and 20,000. Michigan's acreage is estimated
between 5,000 and 6,000. Production in Michigan in 1958 was over 16
million pints having a gross value of about $4 million. Only about
60 percent of Michigan's acreage is in full production. The industry
in the state is growing steadily.
There is no cultivated industry with the lowbush species of the
blueberry, although areas of wild plants, such as in parts of Maine,
have been improved in production to some degree by systematic
burning to remove competing vegetation and by dusting with insecti-
cides for insect control.
While the blueberry is found in many different parts of the coun-
try, it is very exacting in its soil and climatic requirements, and the
prospective grower should be certain that these conditions are suitable
before engaging in blueberry culture.

CHOOSING THE LOCATION FOR BLUEBERRY GROWING

In selecting a location, careful consideration should be given to:
1. Climate—The northern highbush blueberry forms the basis for
the cultivated blueberry industry. This species does not succeed in
northern regions, such as northern Michigan because of too short a
growing season and too low winter temperatures. Neither does it do
well in the far South.
The Michigan Agricultural Experiment Station has been hybridizing
the cultivated highbush blueberry with the native lowbush blueberry
of northern Michigan and apparently has found varieties suitable for
growing under cultivation in northern areas. These varieties will
probably be introduced within a few years.
2. Markets—Nearness to markets, both for fresh use and commer-
cial processing, is a distinct advantage in growing a perishable fruit.
 3. Availability of Pickers—A mature blueberry plantation requires
a large number of pickers. Their availability should always be kept
in mind when choosing a location.

SELECTING THE PLANTATION SITE

A good site for a blueberry plantation should have 1) a suitable
soil, and 2) be as free from frost as possible.

Soil Requirements
Reaction—The blueberry plant requires a soil that is very acid,
preferably one within the pH range of 4.0 to 5.1 (Fig. 1). The pros-
pective grower should have his soil tested by his county agricultural
agent or the Michigan Agricultural Experiment Station.

Fig. 1. Blueberry plants set in muck and sand soils of various degrees of
acidity after 3 years' growth. From left to right: Extremely acid, very acid, mod-
erately acid, and slightly acid muck soils (pH 3.4, 4.4, 5.5, and 6.8, respectively).
The plants in the slightly and moderately acid sand and muck soils are making
poor growth, the leaves are abnormally colored, and they drop prematurely. The
plants in the extremely acid muck (pH 3.4) are growing fairly well but not as well
as those where the pH is 4.4. Soils testing below pH 4.0 should receive sufficient
lime to raise the pH to about 4.4 for best results.

Merrill1 has shown that it is practicable to make soils testing

below pH 4.0 suitable for blueberry production by applying limestone
at the rate of one to four tons per acre, depending upon the degree
of soil acidity to be corrected (Fig. 2). If possible, the limestone should
be worked into the soil before planting.
Several materials may be used to increase soil acidity, including
sulfur, sulfate of aluminum, crude tannic acid, and acid peat. Of
these, sulfur is most commonly used. Acidifying soil for commercial
blueberry culture is not recommended, unless the necessary change
'Merrill, T. A. 1939. Acid tolerance of the highbush blueberry. Mich. Agr. Expt. Sta. Quart. Bui.
12 (2):112-116.
 8- .

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1

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I
Fig. 2. Left: A blueberry plant after growing for 6 years where
the soil was too acid (pH 3.2). Right: A 2-year-old plant growing in
the same area after the soil had been treated with limestone at the rate
of 2 tons per acre, raising the pH from 3.2 to 3.8.

in soil reaction is slight. Prospective growers confronted with this

problem are advised to write to their experiment station for assistance.
Moisture Content—The highbush blueberry grows best where the
water table can be maintained from 14 to 22 inches below the sur-
face. It is not always possible to provide this ideal condition, but for
practical purposes the water level in the soil at least should not be
lower than 10 to 12 inches from the surface during the spring months.
Insufficient soil moisture results in lack of fruit bud formation, and,
if the deficiency is great, in the injury or death of the plants. Too
much water, especially during the growing season, can be as injurious
or even more so than an insufficient amount (Fig. 3).
Organic Matter—An ideal blueberry soil consists of sand having a
high organic matter content (Fig. 4). Plants growing in muck soil,
which consists mostly of organic matter, have a tendency to grow too
late in the fall because of the gradual release of nitrogen from the de-
composing organic matter during the warm summer and early fall
months. Late fall growth is immature and susceptible to winter injury.
Care should be used not to apply too much nitrogen fertilizer on muck
soil and cultivation of such soils should cease by July 1. A cover crop
should be sown if there is insufficient weed growth to serve as a cover

6
 Fig. 3. Rubel plants with water table constantly maintained at different
depths. Above: Plants soon after setting. Below: The same plants after 4 years'
growth. From left to right: Water table maintained at 30, 22, 14, and 6 inches.
The 30-inch water table did not furnish sufficient moisture, while the 6-inch water
table was too near the surface.

Fig. 4. Blueberry plants in their fourth growing season, growing in (left)

a white sandy soil having very little organic matter, and (right) in a soil well
supplied with organic matter. The pH of both soils is about the same.
crop. Competition of the cover crop for nutrients and soil moisture
will help prevent late fall growth of the blueberry plant.
Texture—Blueberry plants are usually found growing in the wild
state on soils ranging from sand to peat. For some time it was thought
that they would not grow on a clay soil. However, recent experiments
have shown that blueberry plants will grow well on such a soil pro-
vided it is sufficiently acid and well supplied with organic matter.
Apparently, though, most areas of naturally suitable blueberry soils
are of a sandy or peaty nature (Fig. 5).

Fig. 5. Blueberry plants (left) growing vigorously in a soil having a high clay
content (31.8 percent) and with a pH of 4.87; and failing (right) in a soil having
a slightly smaller clay content (28.8 percent) but with a considerably higher pH
reading of 6.08. This indicates that the proper degree of soil acidity is more im-
portant in the successful growth of the highbush blueberry than the clay content
of the soil.

Avoid Frost Injury

To obtain proper soil moisture requirements, it is usually neces-
sary to establish the plantation on comparatively low land that is more
subject to frost than higher land. Wide, open areas permitting as much
movement of air as possible should be chosen. Avoid valleys or de-
pressions with hills close by. Nearness to large bodies of water is
added insurance against frost.
8
 Varieties
Several varieties of large-fruited blueberries are available. They
ripen in succession from about July 1 in southwestern Michigan to the
middle of September, and sometimes later.

Recommended varieties for Michigan are as follows:

Earliblue—Begins to ripen early in July. A new variety of promise
for the very early season. The bush is moderately vigorous and pro-
ductive. The berry is medium-large, firm, and has excellent flavor. It
ships and processes well. The picking scar is rather large.
Bluecrop—Begins to ripen a week later than Earliblue. The bush has
very small leaves but produces large crops of medium-large berries.
If allowed to overbear, the fruit will be rather small. Berries are light
blue, firm, and have a perfect picking scar. Ships and processes well.
Rubel'—Begins to ripen about two weeks_ after Bluficrop. It is one of
the first cultivated varieties introduced. Bush vigorous and productive.
Berries excellent in every way, except a little small. Ships and proc-
esses unusually well. This variety is still planted to some extent but
has largely been replaced by Jersey which ripens at about the same
time and produces a larger berry. Rubel requires a good soil for best
success.
Jersey—Ripens about the same time as Rubel. The leading variety in
Michigan at present. Large, productive bush. Berries are excellent in
every way.

Varieties^ for trial

Blueray—Begins to ripen about with Bluecrop. Vigorous, productive
bush. Berries large but not as attractive as Bluecrop. Clusters are
rather tight, making picking more difficult. Picking scar is quite large.
Berkeley—Begins to ripen two weeks after Earliblue. Vigorous, pro-
ductive bush. Berries large, light blue, attractive and of mild flavor.
Good points are productiveness, beautiful color and large size. Ques-
tionable points are a tendency for the fruit to drop when ripe, and pos-
sible susceptibility to frost.
Coville—Begins to ripen about a week after Jersey. Vigorous, produc-
tive bush. Berries large, firm and have good flavor. An excellent va-
riety, but should be planted in only a limited way in Michigan because
of its late season of maturity.

PROPAGATION
The blueberry is not easy to propagate by ordinary methods and
requires special treatment as well as careful attention. Until recent
years plants were so high in price that there was considerable incen-
tive for users of even comparatively small numbers of plants to attempt
to propagate their own. Unless one intends to grow large acreages,
it will no doubt be found cheaper and more convenient, as well as
time-saving, to purchase plants from growers or nurserymen.
The following outline of propagation methods is given for those
who like to propagate their own plants:

Building the Propagating Frame

A so-called box propagating frame is used, measuring 6 feet long,
27 inches wide and 12-16 inches high. Dimensions for length and width
may be changed to accommodate glass sash of various sizes that may
be on hand. The cutting tray is made of 4-inch lumber with Vs- or
y4-inch mesh hardware cloth stapled on the underside. This tray
rests on braces nailed on the inside of the frame 8 inches from the top.
It can be removed without disturbing the cuttings, which facilitates
handling. After the cuttings are planted the glass sash and shade are
placed on top of the frame. (See Figs. 6 and 7 for construction details.)

Fig. 6. A low box propagating frame, 16 inches high. See Fig. 7 for more details
of construction.

10
 Fig. 7. Low propagating frame with glass sash and burlap shade in place. In
front is an empty cutting tray and one filled with rooted cuttings. These trays set
in the top of the propagating frame (see Fig. 6), and,, being movable, provide a
very convenient way of handling cuttings prior to planting in the nursery.

Burlap similar to that used for bran sacks makes the best shading
material as it provides just about the right amount of light. Closer or
looser woven materials should not be used.
Use of Plastic Covers on Propagating Frames
Trials have been made with various plastic covers on propagating
frames as a substitute for glass.2 It was found that temperatures in the
frames covered with clear plastic were higher during hot days in June
than under glass. Temperatures in frames covered with clear plastic,
reinforced with a fine wire mesh, were nearly the same as under glass
sash. Extremely high temperature in late spring before the cuttings
have become well rooted can be fatal.
It is suggested that only the wire mesh plastic be used in a limited
experimental way in comparison with glass until more is known about
this material. The plastic mesh does have certain advantages over
glass in being less expensive, lighter in weight, easier to handle and
more resistant to breakage.
2
Johnston, Stanley. Feb. 1958. Investigations with plastic covers for blueberry propagating frames.
Mich. Agr. Expt. Sta. Quart. Bui. 40-58.

11
 Location of Propagating Frames
It is important that the propagating frames be located in the open
sunlight, well removed from buildings and trees.
Making and Storing the Cuttings
1. Blueberries are commonly propagated by means of cuttings
made in late winter or early spring from shoots produced the previous
season.
2. Use sound shoots of medium to medium-large size for cuttings.
Avoid winter-injured wood or wood with fruit buds (Fig. 8).

Fig. 8. Shoot at left shows winter injury; beside it is another shoot showing
the extent of the injury. Shoot in center is undesirable for cuttings because of the
prevalence of fruit buds. Shoot at right illustrates best type of wood for hard-
wood cuttings. At the extreme right is a hardwood cutting ready for planting.

12
 3. Make the cuttings about 4 inches in length, the lower cut be-
ing made at a slant just behind the lowest bud, and the upper cut just
above the top bud on the cutting.
4. Cuttings can be made with a sharp knife or pruning shears
adjusted for this work. The use of ordinary pruning shears in making
blueberry cuttings is likely to result in injury to the cuttings. How-
ever, the blade can be removed from a pair of Snap-Cut shears and
ground much thinner. The metal bumpers should be replaced with
wooden ones. Cuttings can be made with these adjusted shears with-
out injury and with greater comfort and speed. The wooden bumpers
will need to be replaced with new ones occasionally.
5. To make planting easier, cuttings should be bunched in groups
of 50 with all the butts pointing the same way.
6. If stored before planting, the bundles of cuttings should be
placed in shallow flats or propagating trays in clean peat moss which
has been soaked in water and then pressed until just damp, but not
too wet. Keep in this condition and store in a cool place until ready
to plant. Many cuttings have been ruined by storing in too wet peat
moss. Usually better results will be obtained if the storage period
can be eliminated or reduced to a very short time.

Material in Which to Root Cuttings

Ground sphagnum peat moss has given the best results as a
material in which to root cuttings. Tests to date indicate the best
sources of peat moss for propagation are northern and western Europe,
and British Columbia, Canada. Peat moss from local peat beds should
not be used unless it has been carefully tested and found to be satis-
factory.
Do not add soil, fertilizers or other materials to the ground sphag-
num peat moss (Fig. 9).

Planting Cuttings
1. Cuttings are usually planted about the middle of April in
Michigan, or as soon as danger from severe freezing has passed.
2. The peat should be soaked before placing in the propagating
frames by being submerged in water. The soaking period will range
from 2 or 3 to several hours. Some peats become saturated with water

13
 Fig. 9. Cuttings in the foreground of the propagating frame that have failed
to start new growth were killed by fertilizer having been mixed with the peat.
In the background, where no fertilizer was added, the cuttings are alive and
growing.

quickly. Too long a soaking period for such peats gives poorer results.
A long soaking period does not seem to injure the peat from northern
Europe or British Columbia. After soaking, fill the trays to the top to
allow for settling.
3. To plant, push the cutting into the peat at a slant about two-
thirds of its length. Plant in rows 2 inches apart and space the cut-
tings slightly more than an inch apart in the row.
4. Sprinkle thoroughly after the cuttings are in place.
5. The glass sash and burlap shade should be placed over the
cuttings and kept there, except for watering periods, until the cut-
tings are well rooted, which is usually about the middle of July in
Michigan. Sufficient ventilation may be obtained by permanently
blocking up the sash about 3/16 of an inch on one side.
14
 Watering
The peat should be examined daily to determine if it is sufficiently
moist. If water can be squeezed readily from the peat between the
thumb and finger, it is moist enough.
If water is needed it should be applied with a sprinkler in the
morning before the cuttings become warmed very much by the sun.
Only water from which the chill has been removed should be used.
Never water the cuttings during the heat of the day or in the evening.

Sanitation
Loss from fungus infection after planting is sometimes serious if
the cuttings are not properly handled.
The cuttings should be examined every morning preferably, or at
least every other morning, and all those showing signs of dying should
be removed at once. Weak cuttings will not form roots and are a
source of infection.
Foreign matter of all kinds and also leaves showing signs of fun-
gus infection should be removed as soon as observed.
If fungus infection becomes established in the cutting bed, in-
creased ventilation will assist in checking it. Care will have to be used
not to increase ventilation to the point where severe wilting takes place.
Poor results have been obtained from spraying cuttings in the
frames with various fungicides. Severe spray injury has invariably
resulted from this practice because of the warm, humid atmosphere
inside the frame. Tests are now in progress with chemicals used to
drench the soil and cuttings when planted and at intervals thereafter.
These tests show some promise. Growers having trouble with fungus
infection in propagating frames should write to the South Haven Ex-
periment Station, South Haven, Michigan, for the latest results of these
tests.

Ventilation
When it is certain that virtually all cuttings are rooted, the sash
should be gradually blocked up a little higher each day for about a
week or 10 days until the cuttings are fully ventilated. Then remove
the glass sash but leave the burlap shade over the cuttings until about
the middle of September when it can be removed to permit the cut-
tings to harden properly for winter. Water the cuttings when neces-
sary, which may be frequently after the glass sash has been removed.

15
 Use of Fertilizer in Propagating Frames
Serious injury has resulted from mixing fertilizer with the peat in
propagating frames just before planting (Fig. 9). Likewise, watering
cuttings with fertilizer in solution before they are rooted is hazardous.
However, the use of fertilizer dissolved in water immediately after the
cuttings are rooted will result in larger plants at the end of the season.
Directions are as follows:
Make a stock solution of fertilizer in water at the rate of 1 pound
of 11-11-11 blueberry fertilizer to 4 gallons of water. The fertilizer
dissolves slowly. Therefore, the stock solution should be made a few
hours in advance of using. Stir occasionally. Some material in the
fertilizer will not dissolve and will clog the sprinkler head when used.
Screen this material out before using the solution.
Use 1 quart of stock solution in 1 gallon of water to sprinkle
about 25 square feet of propagating bed. This area is equal to about
one and one-half standard propagating trays 6 x 3 ft. Rinse the leaves
thoroughly with clear water after applying the fertilizer solution.
This is important to prevent possible foliage injury.
Start applications after cuttings are rooted, usually about the
middle of July, and make two applications at 10-day intervals. Do
not apply after the third week in August as the plants should not
grow too late in the fall.

Storing Cuttings Over Winter

In October or early November, a trench 4 inches deep and wide
enough to accommodate the trays of cuttings should be prepared.
After the trays are placed in the trench, all open spaces should be
filled in around them with soil. A closely woven wire fence is an
added protection to keep dogs, cats and rabbits out of the trays dur-
ing the winter.
Planting and Caring for the Nursery
The following spring the rooted cuttings should be removed from
the trays and planted in the best available piece of suitable soil in
rows 18 inches or more apart, depending on the method of cultiva-
tion, and about 6-10 inches apart in the row.
Cultivate and hoe the soil in the nursery thoroughly, until Sep-
tember, and then sow a cover crop if weed growth is not dense.
Better plants will be grown if the nursery is fertilized about a

16
month after planting, or early in June in Michigan. (See discussion
on the use of fertilizers.)

FIELD PLANTING
1. Plants 2 or 3 years old are considered best for field planting.
Large plants do well but require more labor in digging, handling
and planting. Small plants can be used but generally do not result
in as good a stand, especially if a poor growing season is encountered
after planting.
2. A planting distance of 10 x 4 feet has been used in Michigan
since the beginning of the cultivated blueberry industry. Some grow-
ers think wider distances should be used, such as 11 or 12 feet be-
tween rows and 5 feet between plants in the row. Wider distances
decrease the number of plants per acre, which usually decreases
yields per acre. With proper pruning, 10 x 4 feet should be a satis-
factory planting distance.
3. Wet spots in the field should be ridged before planting and
the plants set on the ridges. Tile draining may be needed to remove
excess water from some exceptionally wet places.
4. Leave as many roots and as much earth on the plants as pos-
sible in transplanting from the nursery row to the field.
5. Set plants an inch or two deeper than they grew in the nursery.
6. Do not put fertilizer or other chemicals in the plant holes. If
the soil lacks organic matter, mixing a shovel full of peat with the
soil in each planting hole will be helpful.
7. Either before or soon after planting, prune off all fruit buds
on the plants. This will probably be sufficient pruning at this time
unless the tops are very large in proportion to the roots left after
digging.
Replanting in Old Fields
When old plants have been removed and new plants set in the
same row, poor growth results unless the land has been rested for
two or three years. New plants will grow quite well if they can be
set in the old row middles. If this is impossible because of inter-
ference with remaining rows of old plants, the new plants should not
be set until the resting period has been completed.
If entire fields of old plants are removed, they can be replanted

17
immediately, if the new rows are planted in the row middles of the
previous planting.

Provisions for Pollination

Experiments in Michigan by Merrill3 indicated that Rubel and
Jersey are self-fertile. Later tests showed that other varieties now
recommended for planting are also self-fertile. It is possible, there-
fore, in Michigan at least, to plant varieties in larger blocks than was
considered advisable in the early years of the cultivated blueberry
industry. Larger blocks of a single variety simplify cultural opera-
tions somewhat, especially harvesting. However, more than one
variety — probably three or four — should be planted to extend the
harvesting season and to distribute any risks that might be involved
in planting only one variety.

Cultivation and Cover Crops

The blueberry plant is shallow-rooted and accordingly, cultivation
should be shallow. It should be frequent enough to keep down heavy
weed growth. If the season is dry, cultivation should continue through
the harvesting season. Bushes heavily loaded with ripe berries cannot
be cultivated without knocking-off a considerable quantity of fruit,
unless the cultivation is done immediately following a picking when
all ripe fruit has been removed. Green berries are not easily shaken
from the bushes.
Hoeing is necessary for best growth, especially while the plants are
young. Hand hoeing has been mostly replaced, especially in the larger
plantations, by the mechanical hoe. This machine has been very effi-
cient in blueberry plantings.
Young plantings should be sown to a cover crop about the first
of August, and bearing plantations immediately after harvest. Often
a heavy growth of weeds or crabgrass appears as soon as cultivation
ceases. These plants often provide a very good cover crop. If they
are not present in abundance, a cover crop should be sown. Few
cover crops do well in such highly acid soil. Oats, or a mixture of one-
half oats and one-half buckwheat, have been the best cover crops
found for use in blueberry plantations where a seeded crop is neces-
sary.
3
Merrill, T. A. 1936. Pollination of the highbush blueberry. Mich. Agr. Expt. Sta. Tech. Bui. 151.

18
 Irrigation
While the highbush blueberry is grown on rather moist soils, in-
adequate soil moisture frequently reduces growth and production.
Many plantation owners have found irrigation profitable to increase
the soil moisture supply at critical times, and for protection against
frost at blossoming time. Whether irrigation can be installed to ad-
vantage will depend largely on the cost of obtaining an adequate
supply of water. The grower should seek expert advice on this ques-
tion before investing in an irrigation system for his blueberry planta-
tion.

Sod Culture
Growing blueberries in a natural sod cover, or with a permanent
cover of fescue, has not given satisfactory results unless supple-
mentary soil moisture can be provided by means of irrigation. Even
with irrigation, the permanent cover must be mowed occasionally to
reduce competition from grass and weeds with the blueberry plants
for nutrients, and to make conditions more favorable for pickers
during the harvesting season. The mummy berry disease is much
more serious in uncultivated fields and if sod culture is used, extra
care will be needed in controlling this disease.

Mulching
Blueberry plants grow well if mulched heavily with straw or saw-
dust, provided the soil is suitable for blueberry growing. Mulching
is recommended for small home plantings. Straw mulches are not
advised for commercial plantations because of the great fire hazard.
Heavy sawdust mulches have been used in some small commercial
plantings in Michigan, but without success. Several inches of mulch-
ing material are required. This amount of sawdust is almost impos-
sible to find in southern Michigan for mulching many acres and it
is quite expensive to transport and apply. More sawdust needs to be
applied every two or three years. Weeds become established in the
decaying mulch, requiring their removal. If sawdust is used in home
plantings, avoid applying fresh sawdust. Injury has been observed
from its use. Also, double the amount of nitrogen fertilizer until the
sawdust becomes well decomposed.

19
 Adding Organic Matter to the Soil
The application of 2 or 3 inches of sawdust or acid peat to increase
the organic matter of the soil, working it in by cultivation, has given
favorable results. This practice is recommended wherever these
materials can be obtained at a reasonable price. Brush cutting
machines are now coming into rather general use in blueberry planta-
tions to chop prunings into small pieces, which are cultivated into
the soil. Formerly, these prunings were pushed from the fields and
burned, which was a waste of good organic matter.

USE OF FERTILIZERS
1. Excellent results have been obtained from the use of a com-
plete fertilizer. An 11-11-11 formula is recommended for sand soils,
and a 5-10-15 formula for muck soils.
2. The potash in the above mixtures should be derived from sul-
fate of potash. Instances are known of injury to young blueberry
plants from the use of muriate of potash, but no cases of injury on
older plants have been reported.
3. It is recommended that 1 ounce of the approved mixed fer-
tilizer be applied on the surface around each plant soon after planting.
Never place fertilizer in the plant holes. Increase the amount of fer-
tilizer each year by 1 ounce until a total of 8 ounces per plant is
being used. Moderate variations can be made in the amount of fer-
tilizer used depending upon the fertility of the soil. The area fer-
tilized should be widened each year about a foot beyond the spread
of the bushes until the fertilizer is being distributed over the entire
space between the rows.
4. Fertilizer should be applied in established plantations in early
spring before the young leaves have emerged. Injury is likely to result
from getting fertilizer on the opening buds or young leaves, especially
if they are wet from rain or dew. If applications are required after
the buds are open, keep fertilizer off the plants and apply only when
they are perfectly dry. .
5. Nursery beds may be fertilized about a month after the rooted
cuttings have been planted, using the recommended complete fer-
tilizer (11-11-11) at the rate of Vi pound per 100 square feet and exercis-
ing care not to get any of the fertilizer on the plants.

20
 6. Never use fertilizer in propagating frames before cuttings have
rooted. Careful use of fertilizer in solution after cuttings have rooted
will result in larger plants. (See discussion on the use of fertilizers
in propagating frames in the section on propagation.)

PRUNING
1. Blueberry plants need not be pruned until the end of the third
year in the field. Then only the small bushy growth near the base of
the plant should be removed.
2. Experiments at the South Haven Experiment Station4 showed
that the heavier the pruning given mature blueberry plants the 1)
smaller the crop; 2) larger the berries; and 3) higher the percentage
of berries maturing early.
3. Keeping in mind these basic principles, each grower can deter-
mine what type of pruning will best meet his needs. If he wants
larger, earlier-maturing berries, his pruning should be rather heavy.
If he wants larger crops of somewhat smaller and later-maturing ber-
ries, his pruning should be light. Modifications of the two extremes
can be adopted.
4. A moderate pruning each year is recommended for Michigan
blueberry plantations for the following reasons:
(a) To remove dead and broken branches and the large clus-
ters of very thin, bushy wood that accumulate in mature
bushes. These clusters of bushy wood can be removed
with only a few pruning cuts. Do not remove small, thin
shoots individually because of the high labor cost.
(b) To remove bearing branches close to the ground. Berries
on these branches usually get very dirty and pickers dis-
like to handle them.
(c) To reduce the number of old stems (sometimes called
canes) to three or four. These old stems can be easily
identified as the bark becomes grayish-black with age. Re-
move those that have the fewest fruit buds. Remove them
to the crown rather than heading them back to a side
branch. It is very important to prevent bushes from having
too many old stems.
4
Brightwell, W. T., and Stanley Johnston. 1944. Pruning the highbush blueberry. Mich. Agr.
Expt. Sta. Tech. Bui. 192.

21
 (d) To serve as insurance against dry years when berries on
unpruned bushes are small and poor in quality.
5. Plantations on light soils deficient in organic matter must be
pruned more than those on better soils because of the inability of the
lighter soils to furnish sufficient moisture to properly mature large
crops of fruit.
6. The type of pruning recommended can almost always be given
mature bushes with lopping shears much faster and easier than with
hand shears, thereby cutting the cost of pruning which is a time-
consuming and expensive operation.
7. Pruning may be started as soon as the leaves drop in the fall
and be continued as late as through blossoming time or slightly after
if necessary.

i • .- •\ 4

Fig. 10. Left: A mature Rubel bush before pruning. Right: The same bush
after receiving the type of pruning recommended for the average Michigan
plantation. Low branches and one old stem have been removed together with a
few of the largest clusters of fine, bushy wood. Plants growing on light soils
poorly supplied with organic matter will probably have to be given somewhat
heavier pruning than shown above.

Growing Blueberries in the Home Garden

Blueberries can be grown in the home garden quite successfully
if the soil is naturally sufficiently acid in reaction. In such gardens,
it is probably best to use the mulch system rather than to cultivate.
22
Straw, aged sawdust and oak leaves make good mulching materials.
Water can be applied as needed, and fertilizer used according to direc-
tions given below.
Many methods have been tried in attempts to grow blueberries
in the home garden where the soil is not sufficiently acid for the
blueberry plant. Most of these have not been satisfactory. Of those
tried at South Haven, the metal tub method has given the best results.
Old metal drums of about 50-gallon capacity can usually be ob-
tained at low cost. Have a metal worker cut each drum into two
tubs and drill about four 2-inch drainage holes in the bottom of each
tub. Burn out any residue of oil, paint, tar, or similar materials that
might be injurious to plants. Set the tubs in holes in sunny, open
areas in the garden (Fig. 11). Leave an inch of the top rim extending

Fig. 11. Half of a 50-gallon metal drum in place, with a pile of acid peat at the
left and garden soil at the right. The tub should be filled with a mixture of 2 parts
of acid peat to 1 part of garden soil. If soil well supplied with organic matter
having a pH test of 4.0 to 5.1 can be found nearby it can be used instead of the
peat-and-soil mixture.

above the ground level. Fill the tubs with soil having a high level of
organic matter and a pH of 4.0 to 5.1. It may be more convenient to
obtain acid peat and mix two parts of this material with 1 part of the
garden soil present. Set one plant in each tub. (Fig. 12).
Sprinkle an ounce (2 tablespoons) of a complete garden fertilizer
on the soil surface of each tub about two weeks after planting. Do
not put fertilizer in the plant holes. Apply fertilizer each spring and

23
 Fig. 12. A blueberry plant in the tub near the end of the first
season's growth.

if needed, a second application can be made not later than the middle
of June. Increase fertilizer gradually each year but do not exceed a
total of y4-pound in one season. Apply water when necessary. Keep
soil moderately moist, but not saturated. It is beneficial to place a
mulch of oak leaves, peat moss or old sawdust around the plants and
beyond the edges of the tubs. These materials will also help keep the
soil acid. Do not use fresh sawdust.

24
 Plants in tubs receiving good care will attain a height of 4 to 5
feet and will produce a considerable quantity of fruit. Birds are
very fond of blueberries and will pick them, even before they are
fully ripe, unless the plants are covered with mosquito netting or
wire screen as the ripening season approaches.
In addition to the fruit produced, the blueberry plant is a very
beautiful ornamental shrub at any time of year. In spring it is covered
with small, white, bell-shaped flowers; in summer the glossy green
foliage and large, bright blue berries combine to make a pleasing
sight; in autumn the foliage turns various shades of red; and in winter
the green, olive and red wood of the various varieties is attractive.

Insects
A number of insects attack the blueberry plant and fruit. The
most important of these are:
Insects Attacking the Plant—White grubs, larvae of the June beetle,
sometimes seriously injure newly set blueberry plants by chewing the
roots and tender bark around the crown. Larvae of the strawberry
root weevil will cause similar injury.
Several kinds of caterpillars attack the leaves of blueberry plants,
especially during July and August, and can quickly devour the leaves
on a large plant. They have not been prevalent enough in Michigan
to require spraying for their control. Pickers should be asked to re-
port them. The caterpillars can then be brushed from the plants
and crushed, or heavily infested twigs can be removed and burned.
Lecanium scale has been serious in a few Michigan plantations.
This is a large, brown-shelled scale attached to stems and shoots
which can be easily seen during the dormant season.
Insects Attacking the Fruit—Three insects attack the green berries in
June; cranberry fruitworm, plum curculio and cherry fruitworm.
Losses from these insects are often great if not controlled. Fortunate-
ly, all three can be controlled with about the same program.
The blueberry fruit fly has been the most troublesome blueberry
insect in North America. It has been commonly found in wild blue-
berries for a long time. A light infestation was found in a few Mich-
igan cultivated blueberry fields for the first time in 1943. The female
fly lays eggs in soft, overripe berries. The eggs hatch into small, light-
colored maggots which work inside the berries. A thorough dusting
program has kept this insect under control in cultivated fields.

25
Control Measures for Insects—Because so many useful new insecti-
cides have been discovered in recent years, recommendations for
insect control are changing rapidly. Therefore, it seems inadvisable
to give control recommendations in this publication. Write to the
Cooperative Agricultural Extension Service in your county or to the
Bulletin Office, Michigan State University, East Lansing, Michigan,
for Extension Bulletin E-363, Tree and Small Fruit Insects in Mich-
igan.

Diseases
There are numerous minor diseases of blueberries but only three
of major importance in Michigan at present. They are:
Stunt—Plants having this disease become dwarfed in size, the foliage
is smaller, somewhat mottled and cupped, and the berries are small,
later in maturing and worthless. This disease has been prevalent in
fields of cultivated blueberries for many years but has become serious
only in a few instances. However, like all virus diseases, it is potential-
ly very hazardous and growers should remove all infected plants as
quickly as observed. Plantations should be examined once or twice
during the growing season to search for diseased plants. These
should be removed and burned.
Annual inspection of blueberry fields for stunt and other virus
diseases is necessary in Michigan if plants are grown for sale. How-
ever, growers are urged to have their fields inspected annually by
state inspectors as an insurance against the spread of virus diseases,
even though they are not growing plants for sale. Write to the Bureau
of Plant Industry, State Department of Agriculture, Lansing, Mich-
igan, for information on this service.
Shoestring—A virus disease of the blueberry that has been known for
some time but which has recently become more prevalent in Michigan.
Most noticeable symptoms are red streaks of varying length in the
new shoots in the spring which become less evident as the season
progresses. Severely affected leaves are narrow and pointed. Af-
fected twigs often sharply change their normal direction of growth.
Diseased plants should be promptly removed and burned. State De-
partment of Agriculture inspectors will tag diseased bushes for re-
moval while inspecting for stunt disease. See comments in the
discussion of stunt for information about obtaining inspection service.

26
Mummy Berry
In some seasons, growers are greatly concerned to see many berries
turn pale in color before ripening and finally turn gray and shrivel.
Losses are occasionally severe, especially following wet springs and
in plantations growing on peat soils or moist, sand soils containing
large amounts of organic matter. The disease is caused by a fungus,
Sclerotinia vaccinii Wor. It is not present in serious proportions every
year, and is less serious if the weather is dry during the blossoming
period when infection takes place.
Considerable experimental work has been done in recent years
on the control of mummy berry, and it is suggested that growers who
are having trouble with this disease write to the Department of Botany
and Plant Pathology, Michigan State University, East Lansing, Mich-
igan, for added help for its control.
Control Measures for Blueberry Diseases—Complete information on
disease of blueberries is given in Extension Bulletin E-362, Small Fruit
Diseases in Michigan, which may be obtained from the Cooperative
Agricultural Extension Agent in your County, or by writing to the
Bulletin Office, Michigan State University, East Lansing.

Production
Production begins in a small way the year after planting, although
it is best to remove the blossoms to prevent bearing. The second-
year crop is too small to be of importance and all of the strength of the
bush might better go into growth.
Yields vary greatly with soil conditions and care. On the average,
400 to 800 pints may be harvested the third season and 1,400 to 2,000
pints the fourth summer. Plants reach full production in about eight
years. Average yields in full bearing, under good conditions, should
range from 4,000 to 7,000 pints per acre, although occasionally much
higher yields are obtained.
Blueberry bushes, growing under the right conditions, are long-
lived, some wild plants being known that are considerably over 100
years of age. The oldest cultivated plants in Michigan are 30 years
old. At 12 years of age these plants had become too tall for economi-
cal harvesting and were rather severely pruned-back. They developed
vigorous new tops and produced well for several years when it was
again necessary to prune back the tops. It has been observed that
bushes 25 to 30 years of age have declined somewhat in production.

27
Experiments are in progress to determine the cause of this decline.
It is believed that the problem can be solved and that blueberry
bushes can be maintained in profitable production until 50 years of
age or older.
Harvesting
Harvesting begins in southern Michigan early in July, in a normal
season, and extends until about the middle of September, or some-
times later. Peak production is usually reached during the first few
days of August.
Blueberries hang on the bushes exceptionally well after reaching
maturity. Picking is done about every 10 days. Most varieties re-
quire 3 to 5 pickings to harvest practically all of the berries.
The blueberry harvest now provides work for thousands of pickers

Fig. 13. Picking cultivated highbush blueberries. The harvesting season

extends through most of July, August and the first part of September in Michigan
and provides a pleasant and profitable vacation for many pickers.

28
over a period of several weeks. It requires about 5 or 6 pickers to
harvest an acre of berries in full production. Large plantations pro-
vide housing and camp grounds for many of their pickers who come
from southern states to help with the harvest.
Harvesting blueberries is expensive, amounting to nearly half of
the total cost of production. There is a possibility that mechanical
picking may soon be perfected to the point where it will harvest at
least a fairly large portion of the crop.
Grading, Packing and Marketing
About 45 percent of the average Michigan cultivated blueberry

Fig. 14. A packed pint box of cultivated blueberries ready for market. Note
the cellophane cover and grade designation. This pack has met with general
approval on the fresh markets. Berries for processing are shipped in lug boxes and
30-pound cans.

29
 crop is sold on the fresh market and the balance is used by processors.
Berries for the fresh market are packed in pint cups (Fig. 14).
These are filled rounding full and covered with a sheet of cellophane
on which has been printed the proper grade name. The cellophane
sheet is fitted tightly around the pint cup and held in place by means
of a rubber band. This makes a clean and attractive package. Berries
for processors are put in lug boxes and 30-pound cans.
The Michigan Blueberry Growers' Association, a cooperative or-
ganization, sells about 95 percent of the cultivated blueberry crop
produced in the state. It has established grades and standards which
all members must meet. This has proved to be an orderly and ef-
ficient method of marketing.
The large cultivated blueberry has met with a favorable reception
on the markets for fresh fruit, canning and quick-freezing. The fresh
berries may be used in many ways including serving with sugar and
cream, as an attractive addition to fruit salads, and on ice cream. The
canned or quick-frozen berries are famous for pies and various kinds
of muffins and puddings.

CONCLUSION
There is always a fascination about growing something new, and
no doubt many persons will be tempted to grow cultivated blueberries
who do not have the proper conditions available. It is important to
note that blueberry culture, owing to exacting soil and climatic re-
quirements, is a highly specialized type of fruit growing. Prospective
growers should consult their experiment stations or successful blue-
berry growers for advice before proceeding.

30

k
>i 10 M-10-59