Spider Socks by Terri Knight

Pattern uses the Magic Loop method or 2 circular needles method

When I first saw Barbara Walker’s pattern “The Spider”, in her book
Charted Knitting Designs - A Third Treasury of Knitting Patterns, I fell in love
and knew I had to knit it. The written instructions for the large Spider in this
pattern are my translation of Barbara’s flat knit pattern into knitting in the
round. The rest of the sock, including the little spiders, is my own design. If
you prefer to use a chart to knit Barbara Walker’s large spider, there is a chart
at the end of my pattern which was so graciously shared with me by
Chewyknits. The chart is from her fabulous spider sock design “The Gardener”

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which is posted on Ravelry. If you use the chart you will need to flank it with
p1, k1, chart, k1, p1. A flat insert has been place inside the socks while taking
this photo for better presentation of the spiders.

Size:
Made for Women’s size 7.5, length is adjustable
Width: ball of foot 8.5”, ankle 9” around anklebone.
For a larger width you could use a larger needle or add knit or purl stitches to
the sides of the reverse stockinette in the large spider pattern. Ooh, wouldn’t
a cable on either side be nice? Hmmmm, maybe next time.

Gauge:
9 stitches to the inch in stockinette stitch

Materials needed:
- 100 grams Trekking XXL Tweed #295 or another light-colored solid or semi-
solid 4-ply sock yarn such as Regia Uni, Brown Sheep Wildfoote, Lana Grossa
Meilenweit or Opal Uni
- Used a #1- 40” Addi Turbo circular needle (the 2.5mm version, not the
2.25mm)
- Small cable needle
- Tapestry needle for grafting toe and weaving ends
- Small crochet hook (used size 7) for help in purling 5 together if you happen
to struggle with it like I did

Abbreviations:
C1B -slip 1 st to cable needle hold in back, k1, p1 from cable needle
C1F -slip 1 st to cable needle hold in front, p1, k1 from cable needle

Cluster 3 -Move yarn to back, slip 3 sts to the right-needle, bring yarn to
front, sl the same 3 sts back to the left-needle, move yarn to back, k3

Cluster 5 -With yarn in back slip 5 sts to the right-needle, bring yarn to front,
sl the same 5 sts to the left-needle, move yarn to back, k5

k -knit
k1tbl -knit one through back of loop
k2tog - knit two together
k3tog - knit three together

LT - (left twist) Skip one st and knit the 2nd st in the back loop, then knit the
skipped st in the front loop; sl both sts together from the left-hand needle

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MB -make bobble by k1, p1, k1, p1, k1 in that one knit stitch, turn your work,
knit 5, turn your work, purl 5 together

m1 -Make 1 stitch: Insert left needle, from front to back, under strand of yarn
which runs between last stitch on left needle and first stitch on right needle;
knit this stitch through back loop.

p -purl
p2tog -purl two together
psso -pass slipped stitch[es] over
rem -remaining
rep -repeat
rnd[s] -round[s]

RT -(right twist) k2 together, leave on the left needle; then insert the right-
hand needle between the sts just knitted tog, and knit the first st again; slip
both sts together from the left-hand needle.

SSK -slip 2 stitches as if to knit, then knit those 2 stitches together

sl - slip as if to purl, tip of needle to tip of needle
sl st -slip stitch
st[s] -stitch[es]
St st -stockinette stitch
tbl -through back of loop[s]
tog -together

Wyib -with yarn in back

Wyif -with yarn in front
WS -wrong side[s]
Yo -yarn over
* * -repeat directions between **

INSTRUCTIONS
Leg
Using long-tail method, cast on 68 stitches. Split between evenly needles
(34/34). Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist in the process.
Needle 1 is for the front of the sock, Needle 2 is for the back of the sock. The
/ mark in the written instructions will indicate change from Needle 1
to Needle 2.

Knit 12 rounds of *p2, k2* ribbing (starting with p2 on Needle 1 and starting
with k2 on Needle 2).

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Start leg and large spider pattern:
Rnd 1: p1, k1, p2tog, p28, k1, p1/ *RT, p2* to the last 2 sts, RT (this equals
a 33/34 split)

Rnds 2, 3 and 4: p1, k1, p29, k1, p1 / *k2, p2* to the last 2 sts, k2

Rnd 5: p1, k1, p29, k1, p1 / *RT, p2* to the last 2 sts, RT
Now is a good time to test for size if you haven’t tested your gauge since the
large spider starts on the next round.

Rnd 6: p1, k1, p11, k1, p5, k1, p11, k1, p1 / *k2, p2* to the last 2 sts, k2

Rnd 7: p1, k1, p11, k1tbl, p5, k1tbl, p11, k1, p1 / *k2, p2* to the last 2 sts,
k2

Rnd 8: p1, k1, p11, k1, p5, k1, p11, k1, p1 / *k2, p2* to the last 2 sts, k2

Rnd 9: p1, k1, p11, k1tbl, p5, k1tbl, p11, k1, p1 / *RT, p2* to the last 2 sts,
RT

Rnd 10: p1, k1, p4, k1, p6, k1, p5, k1, p6, k1, p4, k1, p1 / *k2, p2* to the
last 2 sts, k2

Rnd 11: p1, k1, p4, k1tbl, p5, C1B, p5, C1F, p5, k1tbl, p4, k1, p1 / *k2, p2*
to the last 2 sts, k2

Rnd 12: p1, k1, p4, k1, p5, k1, p7, k1, p5, k1, p4, k1, p1 / *k2, p2* to the
last 2 sts, k2

Rnd 13: p1, k1, p4, k1tbl, p4, C1B, p7, C1F, p4, k1tbl, p4, k1, p1 / *RT, p2*
to the last 2 sts, RT

Rnd 14: p1, *k1, p4* twice; k1, p9, *k1, p4* twice; k1, p1 / *k2, p2* to the
last 2 sts, k2

Rnd 15: p1, k1, p3, C1B, p3, C1B, p9, C1F, p3, C1F, p3, k1, p1 / *k2, p2* to
the last 2 sts, k2

Rnd 16: p1, k1, p3, k1, p4, k1, p11, k1, p4, k1, p3, k1, p1 / *k2, p2* to the
last 2 sts, k2

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Rnd 17: p1, k1, p2, C1B, p3, C1B, p11 C1F, p3, C1F, p2, k1, p1 / *RT, p2*
to the last 2 sts, RT

Rnd 18: p1, k1, p2, k1, p4, k1, p5, cluster 3, p5, k1, p4, k1, p2, k1, p1 /
*k2, p2* to the last 2 sts, k2

Rnd 19: p1, k1, p2, k1tbl, p4, k1tbl, p5, k1, m1, k1, m1, k1, p5, k1tbl, p4,
k1tbl, p2, k1, p1 / *k2, p2* to the last 2 sts, k2

Rnd 20: p1, k1, p2, k1, p4, k1, p5, k2, k1-yo-k1 in 1 stitch, k2, p5, k1, p4,
k1, p2, k1, p1 / *k2, p2* to the last 2 sts, k2

Rnd 21: p1, k1, p2, C1F, p3, C1F, p4, k1, m1, k2, k1tbl, k2, m1, k1, p4,
C1B, p3, C1B, p2, k1, p1 / *RT, p2* to the last 2 sts, RT

Rnd 22: p1, k1, p3, *k1, p4* twice; k9, *p4, k1* twice; p3, k1, p1 / *k2,
p2* to the last 2 sts, k2

Rnd 23: p1, k1, *p3, C1F* twice; p3, k9, *p3, C1B* twice; p3, k1, p1 / *k2,
p2* to the last 2 sts, k2

Rnd 24: p1, k1, p4, C1F, p3, k1, p3, k9, p3, k1, p3, C1B, p4, k1, p1 / *k2,
p2* to the last 2 sts, k2

Rnd 25: p1, k1, p5, *C1F, p2* twice; k9, *p2, C1B*, twice; p5, k1, p1 /
*RT, p2* to the last 2 sts, RT

Rnd 26: p1, k1, p6, C1F, p2, k1, p2, k9, p2, k1, p2, C1B, p6, k1, p1 / *k2,
p2* to the last 2 sts, k2

Rnd 27: p1, k1, p7, *C1F, p1* twice; ssk, k5, k2tog, *p1, C1B* twice; p7,
k1, p1 / *k2, p2* to the last 2 sts, k2

Rnd 28: p1, k1, p8, C1F, p1, k1, p1, k7, p1, k1, p1, C1B, p8, k1, p1 / *k2,
p2* to the last 2 sts, k2

Rnd 29: p1, k1, p9, C1F twice, ssk, k3, k2tog, C1B twice, p9, k1, p1 / *RT,
p2* to the last 2 sts, RT

Rnd 30: p1, k1, p10, C1F, k1, cluster 5, k1, C1B, p10, k1, p1 / *k2, p2* to
the last 2 sts, k2

Rnd 31: p1, k1, p11, LT, k5, RT, p11, k1, p1 / *k2, p2* to the last 2 sts, k2

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Rnd 32: p1, k1, p12, k7, p12, k1, p1 / *k2, p2* to the last 2 sts, k2

Rnd 33: p1, k1, p12, RT, k3, LT, p12, k1, p1 / *RT, p2* to the last 2 sts, RT

Rnd 34: p1, k1, p11, C1B, k5, C1F, p11, k1, p1 / *k2, p2* to the last 2 sts,
k2

Rnd 35: p1, k1, p10, C1B twice, k3, C1F twice, p10, k1, p1 / *k2, p2* to the
last 2 sts, k2

Rnd 36: p1, k1, p9, C1B, p1, k1, p1, k3, p1, k1, p1, C1F, p9, k1, p1 / *k2,
p2* to the last 2 sts, k2

Rnd 37: p1, k1, p8, *C1B, p1* twice; k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, *p1, C1F* twice;
p8, k1, p1 / *RT, p2* to the last 2 sts, RT

Rnd 38: p1, k1, p7, C1B, p2, k1, p2, k5, p2, k1, p2, C1F, p7, k1, p1 / *k2,
p2* to the last 2 sts, k2

Rnd 39: p1, k1, p6, C1B, p2, C1B, p1, k1, ssk, k3tog, pass resulting ssk st
over the k3tog st, k1, p1, C1F, p2, C1F, p6, k1, p1 / *k2, p2* to the last 2
sts, k2

Rnd 40: p1, k1, p5, C1B, p3, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p3, C1F, p5, k1, p1
/ *k2, p2* to the last 2 sts, k2

Rnd 41: p1, k1, p4, C1B, p3, *C1B, p1* twice; C1F, p1, C1F, p3, C1F, p4, k1,
p1 / *RT, p2* to the last 2 sts, RT

Rnd 42: p1, *k1, p4* twice; k1, p2, k1, p3, k1, p2, *k1, p4* twice; k1, p1 /
*k2, p2* to the last 2 sts, k2

Rnd 43: p1, k1, *p3, C1B* twice; p9, *C1F, p3* twice; k1, p1 / *k2, p2* to
the last 2 sts, k2

Rnd 44: p1, k1, p3, k1, p4, k1, p11, k1, p4, k1, p3, k1, p1 / *k2, p2* to the
last 2 sts, k2

Rnd 45: p1, k1, p2, C1B, p3, C1B, p11, C1F, p3, C1F, p2, k1, p1 / *RT, p2*
to the last 2 sts, RT

Rnd 46: p1, k1, p2, k1, p4, k1, p13, k1, p4, k1, p2, k1, p1 / *k2, p2* to the
last 2 sts, k2

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Rnd 47: p1, k1, p2, k1tbl, p4, k1tbl, p13, k1tbl, p4, k1tbl, p2, k1, p1 / *k2,
p2* to the last 2 sts, k2

Rnd 48: p1, k1, p2, k1, p4, k1, p13, k1, p4, k1, p2, k1, p1 / *k2, p2* to the
last 2 sts, k2

Rnd 49: p1, k1, p2, C1F, p3, C1F, p11, C1B, p3, C1B, p2, k1, p1 / *RT, p2*
to the last 2 sts, RT

Rnd 50: p1, k1, p3, k1, p4, k1, p11, k1, p4, k1, p3, k1, p1 / *k2, p2* to the
last 2 sts, k2

Rnd 51: p1, k1, p3, k1tbl, p4, C1F, p9, C1B, p4, k1tbl, p3, k1, p1 / *k2, p2*
to the last 2 sts, k2

Rnd 52: p1, k1, p3, k1, p5, k1, p9, k1, p5, k1, p3, k1, p1 / *k2, p2* to the
last 2 sts, k2

Rnd 53-: p1, k1, p9, C1F, p7, C1B, p9, k1, p1 / *RT, p2* to the last 2 sts, RT

Rnd 54: p1, k1, p10, k1, p7, k1, p10, k1, p1 / *k2, p2* to the last 2 sts, k2

Rnd 55: p1, k1, p10, k1tbl, p7, k1tbl, p10, k1, p1 / *k2, p2* to the last 2
sts, k2

Rnd 56: p1, k1, p29, k1, p1 / *k2, p2* to the last 2 sts, k2

Rnd 57: p1, k1, p29, k1, p1 / *RT, p2* to the last 2 sts, RT

Rnds 58-60: p1, k1, p29, k1, p1 / *k2, p2* to the last 2 sts, k2

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Heel Flap:
The instep stitches on Needle 1 will wait unworked while you create the heel
flap on Needle 2. While working the heel flap and turning the heel the slip
stitches are slipped wyib on the RS and wyif on the WS. The heel flap uses a
slip 2 stitch pattern to form a ribbed continuation of the cable design above
the heel.

Turn Needle 2 so that the WS faces you.

Row 1(WS): sl 1, purl to end of row
Row 2 (RS): *sl 2, k2* rep until last 2 sts; sl 2
Row 3 (WS): Loosely purl the first stitch, purl across needle.
Row 4 (RS): *sl 2, k2* rep until last 2 sts; sl 2
Rep Rows 3 & 4 each 16 more times or until heel flap measures approximately
2½”.

Turning the heel:

Hold Needle 2 with WS facing you.
Row 1 (WS): sl 1, p18, p2tog, p1 -leaves 12 sts unworked- turn
Row 2 (RS): sl 1, k5, ssk, k1, -leaves 12 sts unworked- turn
Row 3 (WS): sl 1, p6, p2tog, p1 -leaves 10 sts unworked- turn
Row 4 (RS): sl 1, k7, ssk, k1 -leaves 10 sts unworked- turn
Row 5 (WS): sl 1, p8, p2tog, p1 -leaves 8 sts unworked- turn
Row 6 (RS): sl 1, k9, ssk, k1 -leaves 8 sts unworked- turn
Row 7 (WS): sl 1, p10, p2tog, p1 -leaves 6 sts unworked- turn

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Row 8 (RS): sl 1, k11, ssk, k1 -leaves 6 sts unworked- turn
Row 9 (WS): sl 1, p12, p2tog, p1 -leaves 4 sts unworked- turn
Row 10 (RS): sl 1, k13, ssk, k1 -leaves 4 sts unworked- turn
Row 11 (WS): sl 1, p14, p2tog, p1 -leaves 2 sts unworked- turn
Row 12 (RS): sl 1, k15, ssk, k1 -leaves 2 sts unworked- turn
Row 13 (WS): sl 1, p16, p2tog, p1 -leaves 0 sts unworked- turn
Row 14 (RS): sl1, k17, ssk, Last stitch rem on the left needle will be very
loose and elongated. To remedy this, insert the left needle tip from back to
front under the strand of yarn between the previous ssk st on the right needle
and the last st on the left needle. Lift the strand on to the left needle so it
rests beside the last stitch and k2tog.

Loading the gusset = 1/3 of Needle 2 and one full round:

With Needle 2 (which has the remaining heel stitches on it), pick up 20
stitches on the right side of the heel flap (as worn). Make loop with the needle
cable if using the Magic Loop method.

Needle 1: k2, p29, k2. Make loop with the needle cable if using the Magic
Loop method.

With the now free needle, pick up 20 stitches on the left side of the heel flap
(as worn). Continue knitting across all rem sts on Needle 2. Your gusset is
now loaded and you should have 33 sts on Needle 1 and 60 sts on Needle 2.

Decreasing gusset:
^Rnd 1: Needle 1 - k2, p29, k2
Needle 2 – k1, ssk, knit until 3 sts rem, k2tog, k1

^Rnd 2: Needle 1 - k2, p29, k2

Needle 2 – knit across
Please stop and read:
You are now ready to start the little spider pattern on Needle 1. You will
continue to decrease the gusset on Needle 2 by repeating Rnds 1 & 2 shown
above ^ until 34 sts remain on Needle 2. All stitches on Needle 2 in the
following round are knit. Needle 2 is decreased to 33 sts on the next round by
k31, k2tog, k1 on Needle 2. This leaves a total of 66 sts with a 33/33 split. All
stitches on Needle 2 will be knit for the sole of the foot.

MB = To make a little spider butt, create a bobble stitch in the one knit stitch
by k1, p1, k1, p1, k1 in that one knit stitch, Turn your work, knit 5, Turn your
work, Purl 5 together (ARGH!! This was accomplished by cheating and pulling
the yarn through the 5 stitches using a small crochet hook and placing the
resultant stitch on the right knitting needle).

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The pattern for the little spiders on Needle 1 is as follows:
Rnds 1- 21: k2, p6, k1, p7, k1, p7, k1, p6, k2
Rnd 22: k2, p6, MB, p7, k1, p7, k1, p6, k2
Rnds 23, 25, 27, and 29: k2, p3, wyif sl 7 sts (see note**below), p4, k1, p7,
k1, p6, k2
Rnds 24, 26, 28, and 30-32: k2, p14, k1, p7, k1, p6, k2

**Note on Rounds 23 25, 27, and 29 and all other spider leg rounds: wyif sl
7 sts = slipping the 3 stitches before the bobble stitch, the bobble stitch itself,
and the 3 stitches after the bobble stitch. Purl the next stitch or two and then
check the tension of the bar of yarn in front to see if it is loose enough so that
when you wear the sock it will not pull or distort the sock. Test each yarn bar
by spreading the stitches along the needle and using your needle tip to draw
the yarn bar(s) back to touch the bobble stitch as this is where the yarn bars
will eventually be stitched in place to form the legs.

Stop here and complete the first little spider. It is much easier now than after
the whole sock is finished.

Thread a 15” piece of yarn onto a tapestry needle. Come up from the inside of
the sock and poke the needle through the point between the bobble butt and
the center of the first yarn bar leaving at least a 4” tail inside the sock. Wrap
around the perimeter of the bobble stitch clockwise and thread under the two
bars of the splayed knit stitch which the bobble stitch was knit into, continue
clockwise until you come back to the entry point and poke the needle down
into the sock through the original entry point.
Next move the needle slightly forward to a second entry point, so that you
do not come back through the original entry point and poke needle up through
the sock. Gather up all 4 leg bars in a direction that moves under the 1st-4th
bars and comes back over the 4th-1st bars and back through the second entry
point into the interior of the sock. Pull tight to draw the leg bars back towards
the bobble butt. Repeat this wrap again. Tie off to the 4” tail inside the sock.
Keep the needle on the long end of the yarn. Make a large French knot (wrap
the needle 5 times) for the spider’s head, tie off and weave ends in. A good
French knot tutorial is shown at:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2uUjGJvVx2I&NR=1
Tie off and weave in both ends of yarn.

Now on to the second little spider…

Rnds 33-35: k2, p14, k1, p7, k1, p6, k2

Rnd 36: k2, p14, k1, p7, MB, p6, k2
Rnds 37, 39, 41, and 43: k2, p14, k1, p4, wyif sl 7 sts (test bar**), p3, k2

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Rnds 38, 40, 42, and 44-46: k2, p14, k1, p14, k2
Stop here and finish the second little spider as shown for the first little spider

And for the last little spider:

Rnds 47-49: k2, p14, k1, p14, k2
Rnd 50: k2, p14, MB, p14. k2
Rnds 51, 53, 55, and 57: k2, p11, wyif sl 7 sts (test bar**), p11, k2
Rnds 52, 54, 56 and 58-60: k2, p29, k2
Stop here and finish the third little spider as shown for the first little spider

Continue Needle 1- k2, p29, k2

Needle 2- Knit
Until sock is 1¾” from the desired length of the sock, decrease toe.

Decreasing the toe:

Rnd 1: Needle 1- k1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before end of needle, k2tog, k1
Needle 2- k1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before end of needle, k2tog, k1
(4 sts decreased for the whole round)
Rnd 2: Knit.
Repeat these two rounds until there are 11 sts on each needle (22 sts total)

Graft toe using the Kitchener stitch. Weave in loose ends.

For mirror image socks, reverse the positions of the 1st and 3rd little spiders on
the second sock.

© Terri Knight 2008. All rights reserved

Feel free to use this pattern for your personal use. It may not be reproduced
for sale or used to produce garments for resale.

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