Spinnovation 023
Spinnovation 023
Spinnovation 023
No. 23
08/2007
N 5.–
INNOVATION
SPIN
THE MAGAZINE FOR
S P I N N I N G M I L L S
EliTeQCompactSet V5
HP-GX 400
New Top Weighting Arm
Premium Parts –
0 ProFiLQNavels 0
Solidring CR-Coating
Trash Channel for SE 9
MDTA 3 – Micro Dust
Trash Analyser
Mill Reports:
– Textufil, El Salvador
– K.P. Textiles, India
– GTN Textiles, India
– Gülle Tekstil, Turkey
New Products:
– 5starQ Tube
– EliVario
– EliVAControl V.2 .
– Active Cradle
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CONTENTS
Editorial 3
EliTeQCompactSet V5 –
Your Compact Spinning System for any Application 5
Evolution of the SUESSEN Top Weighting Arm Family
– a Historical Review
HP-GX 400
– New Top Weighting Arm for Roving Frames 4
ProFiLQNavels - A New Generation 6
EliVario - More Flexibility in Producing Compact Yarn 20
MDTA 3 – Microdust and Trash Analyser
for the Cost Effective Selection
and Combination of Raw Material 26
CR-Coating for SOLIDRINGS 30
EliVAControl V.2
– Upgrade of the EliVAC Monitoring System 32
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Editorial
Erich Casanova, Managing Director SUESSEN /
Peter Stahlecker, Managing Director SUESSEN
and Editor in Chief SPINNOVATION
Dear Reader, A trade show is always a bit of a social technical matters. Those customers,
event: We all meet friends whom we who are successful in marketing
only meet at those shows, but of EliTwistQ – and that is the vast majority
ITMA 2007 is around the corner. course the main raison d’être is for our – are reporting paybacks of 6 months
From September 3 to 20 it will be held customers to get informed about new or even less.
in Munich, Germany. developments.
In past issues of the SPINNOVATION,
ITMA exhibitions have always been SUESSEN has continued its effort in customers have shared with you their
like milestones in our industry; let us research and development, and some experience with EliTeQ/EliTwistQ and
remind you of just a few highlights of the novelties we will show in Munich other SUESSEN products; and
over the past 30 years: will be discussed in this SPINNO- once again in this issue, we are proud
VATION. We sincerely hope that after to present successful SUESSEN
– In 975 the first fully automated reading about them, you will be curi- customers.
OE spin tester was shown (by ous enough to come and see them in
SUESSEN) action in Hall A6, Booth 35/44. We believe that featuring successful
– The ITMA 979 was all OE, a total of mills is one key topic in every
0 3 manufacturers showed their As we said in the last SPINNOVATION SPINNOVATION, and we are very 0
products No. 22, Compact Spinning is here to grateful to these customers. The spirit
– The ITMA 983 was the ”air jet stay. In March 2007, we had the great of sharing shown by these customers
spinning” show, with products from pleasure to hand over the 2,000,000th advances our industry, benefiting
MURATA, TOYOTA, and HOWA. EliTeQCompact Spindle to the Turkish everybody.
– Compact Spinning was the domin- customer MATESA, only nine months
ant theme in 999, with Rieter, after we could celebrate the Our strategic alliance with the giant
SUESSEN, Zinser, CSM and others ,500,000th EliTeQCompact Spindle. As Chinese textile machinery manufactu-
showing their respective versions of this writing, we have sold over rer Jingwei is developing very well.
of compact spinning. 2,300,000 EliTeQCompact Spindles, Jingwei has sold over 400,000 spin-
making SUESSEN the number one dles equipped with EliTeQ in China,
We all hope that Munich will be a wor- supplier for compact spinning in the and Jingwei and SUESSEN jointly
thy successor of some of the real world. We are thankful to our custom- received a very large order from an
important ITMAs before. ers, who made this happen, and we Indian customer recently. In our view,
assure you that we will work hard to this proves that with goodwill and
In recent times, there has been a lot of continue to earn your trust. tolerance on both sides cultural diffe-
competition for the ITMA as the ITME rences are no obstacle for a success-
show in India, as well as the ITMA Asia, Nearly 0% of the EliTeQCompact ful cooperation, but rather an enhan-
CITME and the ShanghaiTex in China Spindles sold are actually with cement!
are rapidly gaining in importance. We EliTwistQTechnology, showing the
believe that this simply reflects the fact increasing importance of this techno- To our pleasant surprise, Open End
that the textile industry, our customers, logy. The main issue with EliTwistQ is has really picked up tremendously
is moving eastwards. marketing, there are no unresolved since the end of 2006.
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SUESSEN is proud to be the exclusive trying to find the answer to a question, Oktoberfest (the world-famous beer
supplier of OE SpinBoxes for the fully which nobody asked. Only your con- festival) to just name a few. May we
automated OE spinning machines of stant input can prevent this. suggest that you delay your return trip
RIETER and of SAVIO. Sales are dou- by a few days to enjoy our secret
ble of what they were in 2006, and We hope to get a lot of your input, capital city.
there is no sign of slowing down. Con- when you come to visit us in Munich.
sequently, our sales of Premium Parts To the best of our recollection this We hope, you will enjoy this 23rd issue
(highest quality technology parts for will be the first ITMA in Munich (or of our SPINNOVATION, and we hope
OE spinning) have increased, too. We München, how we call it in German). to hear from you with comments and
are investing heavily into research and Munich arguably is the cultural capital suggestions.
development to remain at the leading of Germany, with many museums, with
edge of OE technology, where we have theater, opera house, Hofbräu House
been for the past 30 years. (this being the most famous beer
drinking hall in the world) and See you in München!
All our efforts only make sense, if they
add value to your business. We, like all
0 suppliers, are heavily dependent on 0
your frank and open input. Only if we
know your problems, we can try to find
adequate solutions. In all development
work, there is always the danger of Erich Casanova, Managing Director Peter Stahlecker, Managing Director
SUESSEN’s Vision
– Be the global Technology Component and Conversion Supplier to the yarn
manufacturing industries in ring spinning and open-end rotor spinning
– Create added value for our customers through reliability,
productivity and quality
– Ensure a sustainable and profitable growth
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EliTe Q CompactSet V5 –
Your Compact Spinning System for any Application
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π Quality improvement
π Optimised utilisation of fibre sub-
stance (raw material)
π Production increase
π Substitution of products (carded
instead of combed material)
π Cost saving in raw material
0 . Quality improvement increase. On the one hand, the spindle tem, less expensive raw material can
0
speed may sometimes be raised, be used.
Initially, this was the purpose of deve-
because as a result of the absolutely
loping compact spinning systems. In industrial practice we find a com-
close and parallel fibre positioning
With unvarying raw material quality bination of purposes which fits the
and therefore optimised embedding of
and production parameters of the ring corresponding business strategy best.
all fibres in the yarn the ends-down
spinning frame, they are capable of
rate could be substantially reduced.
producing ring-spun yarns in a quality Customers will profit from the com-
not known until now with respect to On the other hand, the twist coefficient pact spinning system in the following
yarn hairiness, strength and irregular- can be reduced by about 0% compa- applications:
ity. red with conventionally spun yarn, for
Advantages for your yarn
the same reason.
2. Optimised utilisation of fibre sub-
π Tenacity increased by up to 25%
stance (raw material) 4. Substitution of products
π Zweigle (S 3) hairiness (fibres
As a result of the special processing The improved yarn quality permits to exceeding 3mm) reduced by up to
method, the compact spinning system use carded yarns in applications, 85%, Uster (H) hairiness reduced
requires less fibres in the yarn cross- which originally required combed by up to 30%
section (spinning limit). The same raw yarns. Combed compact yarns substi- π Elongation increased by 5% (CO)
material is spun into finer (and there- tute for two-ply yarns. EliTwistQYarns to 20% (WO)
fore more expensive) yarns. replace 2-for- twisted yarns. π Work capacity increased by up to
50%
3. Production increase 5. Cost saving in raw material
π Yarn irregularity often improved
Another variant of improved utilisation To produce a predetermined yarn π IPI imperfections frequently redu-
of fibre substance is production quality with a compact spinning sys- ced significantly
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0 π
frames
UTS 600 e.g. for worsted spinning
0
frames
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HP-GX 400 –
New Top Weighting Arm for Roving Frames
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ProFiLQ4
Smooth surface 00% Viscose Weaving/Knitting Universal speed range, standard hairiness,
4 flutes improved yarn quality
Standard diameter 00% PES Knitting Normal speed range, standard hairiness,
improved yarn quality
PES/Cotton blends Knitting Normal speed range, standard hairiness,
improved yarn quality
ProFiLQ6
Smooth surface 00% Cotton Knitting High speed range, increased short hairiness,
6 flutes 00% PES improved yarn quality
Small diameter PES/Cotton blends
ProFiLQS
Smooth surface 00% Cotton Weaving High speed range, low hairiness,
Spiral 00% Viscose improved yarn quality
Small diameter
ProFiLQSM
Smooth surface 00% Cotton Weaving High speed range, increased short hairiness,
Spiral 00% Viscose Weaving improved yarn quality
Soft knurled inlay Normal speed range, increased short hairiness,
Small diameter improved yarn quality
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Fig. 2
These new ProFiLQNavels have been Technological and technical features be very smooth and have no pores
developed for exactly those fibre exceeding the fibre diameter.
What is the difference of the ProFiLQ
materials mainly processed in Open-
Navels compared to conventional
End spinning: Today, modern ceramic composites
navels?
fulfil this demand and naturally they
π 00% Cotton Two aspects are responsible for the are used for the new generation of
π 00% Polyester aforesaid advantages: ProFiLQNavels.
π Polyester/Cotton blends
. Ceramic surface
π Viscose The improved surface quality certainly
The importance of the ceramic surface minimizes the fibre damage, but has
A general survey for the application of is unquestioned. For minimum fibre only a proportionally small impact in
each navel is given in table . damage the ceramic surface must speed increase.
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Fig. 3
Indeed, the spinning tension, which speed range of an individual rotor dia- The cleaner, the longer and the stron-
depends on the rotor speed, causes meter. ger the fibres of the processed yarn
end-breaks, if it exceeds the minimum The minimum and maximum speed are, the higher are the speeds that can
yarn break force. range of an individual rotor diameter be achieved.
The ProFiLQNavels lower the frictional follows technological rules:
force and thereby reduce the spinning π A minimum rotor rpm is necessary But still the level of spinning tension
tension, so that higher speeds are to provide sufficient centrifugal limits the maximum production speed
possible. force for a safe and homogeneous of each individual fibre blend.
fibre slip into the rotor groove. The afore described characteristic of
Individual range of application π The maximum rotor rpm also the ProFiLQNavels, i.e. reduction of
depends on the centrifugal force spinning tension, enables the spinner
Extensive field tests with the ProFiLQ causing the spinning tension, to process the desired yarn at the high
Navels have been evaluated and led to which should not exceed the mini- speed range of an individual rotor dia-
recommendations as guide lines for mum yarn break force. meter. In some cases even a smaller
the fibre raw materials mainly proces- rotor diameter can be chosen.
sed and their applications. See Figs. 2, In general the rotor diameter is chosen
3, and 4. Helpful hints for the graphs. in accordance with the yarn count, the As an overall result the speed
The differentiation between ”normal fibre quality processed and the fibre increase by the ProFiLQNavels is bet-
and high rpm-level” refers to the mass. ween 5% to 2%.
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Fig. 4
π Cotton diagram Fig. 2 π PES and PES/Cotton described in terms of better USTER
In knitwear applications the hand of a diagram Fig. 3 CV% and less imperfections.
fabric is an important attribute. In knitwear applications the In some rare cases a slight increase in
The hairiness level has a direct ProFiLQNavels minimize the thermal end-breaks is observed – but this level
influence on this attribute. At the ”nor- damage to the PES fibres, due to the is definitely lower than with any stand-
mal” speed level, the previously intro- smooth surface. ard navel.
duced KS-M navel provides increased The resulting hairiness still provides a
short hairiness (up to 2 mm) while the good hand of the knitwear. Summary
other navels increase the amount of In weaving applications the well-
longer hairs (longer than 3 mm). known MIMA navels are still unbeaten. The ProFiLQNavels enable the open
ProFiLQ6 navels also increase the end spinning mills to process their
π Viscose diagram Fig. 4
amount of short hairs (up to 2 mm). favourite raw materials at the highest
The speed range and application with
possible production speeds.
In weaving applications long hairs the ProFiLQ4 navel is universal. The
As an overall result, the speed
disturb the downstream processes, ProFiLQ4 performs with any Viscose
increase provided by the ProFiLQ
while short hairs improve e.g. the fibre-type at a very low end-break level
Navels is between 5% to 2% without
efficiency of air jet looms. with good yarn quality parameters.
negatively influencing the yarn quality,
The KS-M and the ProFiLQSM navels In weaving applications the displayed nor causing more end-breaks at the
provide these required short hairs up improvements in ”yarn quality” are higher spinning speeds.
to 2 mm.
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. Introduction
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Efficiency (%)
Power loss (kW)
Fig. 4
The fan speed that the user requires
0 can be entered on an easily access- 0
of producing compact yarns that are 2007. This product will enable our cus- ible display. Consequently, the vacuum
not merely in accordance with the tomers to produce a compact yarn is infinitely adjustable over a wide
principle of being ”as compact as with great ease, according to any range of settings (Fig. 5).
possible”. Indeed, there is an increas- requirement, whilst simultaneously
ing demand for the possibility of vary- optimising their energy consumption. The same display that applies for
ing the compacting effect. This EliVario is also used for the optional
depends on the various requirements 2. What is EliVario? EliVAControl system (see page 32).
of the downstream process, the end
product or just the more cost-effective The EliFans are driven by a special 3. Specific energy consumption
spinning process. Applications have motor that is controlled by a frequency in kWh per kg of Yarn
expanded beyond the mere spinning inverter via the drive shaft that reaches
of long-staple cotton and have there- through the machine. Depending on Fig. 6 shows the approximate quantity
fore supported this development. the amount of space available, the fre- of yarn (measured in grams) that can
quency inverter is installed in the con- be produced on an hourly basis for
This expansion has involved proces- trol cabinet of the basic machine or in each spindle, depending on the yarn
sing carded cotton, man-made fibres a separate housing by way of excep- count. We have contrasted this with
and blends, as well as using compact tion (Fig. 2). the annual power consumption of a
yarns both in weaving and knitting spindle in kilowatt hours.
applications. The special motor has been designed
to ensure that it will always perform This trend is based on extensive tests
The optional product EliVario has requiring the least amount of energy in various spinning mills. It should be
been designed to meet this trend and possible. And this is irrespective of noted that the specific energy con-
we will proudly present this at ITMA whether the machines are long or sumption is highly dependent on the
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The extent to which the share of EliTeQ
7
in the total energy costs of a ring spin-
Energy consumption
Spindle production
6 30
(kWh/kg Yarn)
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Table shows some additional import- yarn, the potential is already approxi-
®
Ne 70 EliT
e ant trial conditions. mately 4%, following these trials.
m ac h ine +
Basic
Power consumption [kWh per kg yarn]
4.00
Basic machine
As indicated in Fig. 7, the share of Based on energy costs of 0.06 per
compacting in the specific energy kWh, table 2 displays the cost
costs predominantly rises with a increase due to compacting.
3.00
decreasing delivery speed, i.e. finer
yarn requires more energy for com- So how much energy is really needed?
pacting. As a result, the vacuum has To better understand this, the end-
2.00
an increasing influence when finer breaks were counted and yarn quality
Ne 30
®
Ring diameter 36 mm 36 mm
The influence of values below 26 mbar
Lift/tube length 65/90 mm 65/90 mm
is not as considerable as is widely
Spindle speed avg. 6,000 /min 7,500 /min
believed. Even with 8 mbar it is poss-
Spindle speed max. 7,000 /min 9,400 /min
ible to spin compact yarns of sufficient
No. of spindles 960 960
quality to unquestionably meet the
Type of lattice apron 5starQApron 5starQApron demands of many customers in the
Type of slot G-Slot G-Slot downstreaming process.
Draft EliTop .065 .065
End breaks avg. 6/000 spih 24/000 Spih In this regard, it should be noted that
Waste in pneumafil 0.29% 0.47% lower vacuum values and therefore fan
speeds have an effect on the service
life of the fans, shaft bearings and
Tab. 2
drive belts. This should be taken into
Yarn count Cost increase due Cost increase due account as it helps to reduce the
to compacting with 8 bar to compacting with 34 bar
maintenance costs.
Ne 30 0.008 z / kg yarn 0.06 z / kg yarn
Ne 70 0.02 z / kg yarn 0.049 z / kg yarn
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23 3,50
Naturally, the trends described above
3,25
Uster Hairiness (H)
22
Tenacity (cN/tex)
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The range of vacuum tested was bet- In conclusion, these laboratory tests 6. Summary
ween 25 mbar and 0 mbar (an extre- indicate that in achieving minor quality
mely low value). improvements one often has to accept Following the wide range of applica-
a significantly higher energy con- tions for compact yarns, the demands
The results (cN/tex, H and S3) are sumption, and that the influence of the made on compact spinning methods
shown in table 3 and contrasted with vacuum depends on the raw material have further differentiated.
the values of conventional ring yarn. processed.
And the findings can be summarised The influence of additional energy
as follows: costs for the ring spinning machine
on the total yarn price is low for
π Even with a very low vacuum of coarser EliTeQYarns. In the case
0 mbar, it is possible to achieve of yarns with a count of Ne 60 and
substantial improvements for all finer, energy costs have become
yarns compared with conventional increasingly important.
reference yarn.
Without question, the studies have
0 π On the whole, the maximum quality proven that this factor can be influen- 0
increase for cotton yarns in these ced, as it is usually possible to achieve
trials is achieved with vacuums quite substantial quality advantages
from about 20 to 25 mbar. over conventional ring yarn, even with
rather low vacuum values.
π When man-made fibres are spun
into compact yarn, an increase in EliVario will enable the spinning
yarn strength is usually not the mills to match the quality with the
goal. Instead, the reduction of corresponding demands. And this
long-hairiness is the fundamental can be done in a very simple way
intention. Therefore, for this pur- and without additional components,
pose, a very low vacuum is already whilst simultaneously optimising the
sufficient. energy consumption for producing an
EliTeQYarn.
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MDTA 3 –
Microdust and Trash Analyser for the Cost Effective
Selection and Combination of Raw Material
Anja Weinans, Product Manager QSS, SUESSEN
4,00
material is one of the most dominant
2,00
factors in the costs of yarn production 0,00
1 3 5 7 9 11 13 15 17 19 21 23 25 27 29 31 33 35 37 39 41 43 45 47
and in many cases the figure exceeds
Growth area
50% of the total cost. Consequently,
the selection of the fibre material and 0,8
Dust content of various growth areas
Dust content (%)
0 0
Fibre fragment content (%)
0,6
Growth area
damaged, the short fibre content
increases and the usually easily Fig.
removable leaf and seed particles get
smashed and are therefore hard to Function Gravimetrical and visual
clean out. Besides the cleanability and assessment of dust,
the trash, dust and fibre fragment The MDTA 3 processes tufts as well as trash and fibre fragment content
content, processing behaviour as well different slivers of 5-20 g and is able to
as the tendencies of stickiness are separate the samples into fibres, trash, 48 different cotton samples have been
also important parameters, which dust and fibre fragments. This is achie- tested regarding trash, dust and fibre
influence the quality and the profitabil- ved by opening the fibres in a similar fragment content. As Fig. shows,
ity. All these parameters can be deter- way to carding. Dust, trash and fibre trash, dust and fibre fragments are
mined by the MDTA 3. fragments are separated and finally the individual parameters, which do not
fibres are formed into a homogeneous correlate to each other. It is therefore
fibre ring of m in length. For clear not sufficient to just know one of them.
evaluation the different results are
weighed and proportioned to the size The fibre fragment content is an indi-
of the sample. In order to achieve cator for sensitive fibres or fibres over-
representative test results 3 passages loaded from the ginning process. The
with a total of 20 g are recommended. knowledge of the dust and fibre frag
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not at all. If high trash content in fibre presented to the MDTA3, due to the
material consists primarily of leaf par- opening up to single fibre, a melange,
ticles, the raw material can be easily which will match the results of a pro-
cleaned. Since fibre material with low duction machine, is produced within
trash content is usually more expen- just a few minutes. Thereby the MDTA 3
sive than material with higher trash represents a substantial progress for
content, knowing the cleanability of the preparation of melanges because
the fibre material permits significant it simplifies and shortens the colour
cost savings. The cleanability can only matching process and helps to not-
Fig. 4
be measured by the MDTA 3, no other ably reduce the costs for melanging
testing instrument is measuring this and sampling
important parameter. ciency of an opening/cleaning equip-
Tendencies of stickiness
ment, cards or of an entire cleaning
Process optimization
line. The MDTA 3 opens and cleans raw
The MDTA 3 not only serves to evalu- cotton similar to the processes in the
Melanges
ate raw material, it also supplies blow room and card. After opening, the
0 important parameters for process The production of colour matching raw material is pressed against the 0
optimisation. blends is very time consuming and in rotor wall by centrifugal force to form a
certain circumstances also very sliver. It was observed from time to
Fibre material reacts diversely on the
expensive since it has to be done time that it was difficult to remove the
processing in the opening and clean-
either on production machines with fibre ring from the rotor. Fibres and
ing line. Since the MDTA 3 simulates
big raw material quantities or by hand. trash particles sticking to the rotor wall
the opening and cleaning line, the nep
If individual blend components are were the reason for this. Subsequent
sensitivity of a material can be deter-
mined by running the material several Fig. 5 Rotor
times through the MDTA 3 and subse-
quently testing the sliver on a nep tes-
ter. Fig. 3 shows an example of the nep
sensitivity of 5 different fibre materials.
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Common knowledge?!
[%] 60
π up to 2% improved USTER CV%
π 20% to 40% less thin places 40
π 5% to 30% less thick places
π 20% to 40% less neps 20
0
Uster CV% Thins (-50%) Thicks (-50%) Neps (+280%)
DN-Coating CR-Coating
Fig. 1
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EliVAControl V.2
Upgrade of the EliVAC Monitoring System
for EliTeQCompactSet
Rainer Thum, Head Marketing, SUESSEN
Function
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Benefits
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5star Q Tube –
New EliTube for the EliTeQCompact Spinning System
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Your Problem?
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100 1
Standard Premium Parts Standard Premium Parts
80 0,6
70 0,4
60 0,2
50 0
AEF% YB/kg YC/kg
Fig. 2 Average Efficiency Fig. 3 Yarn Breaks per kg Clearer Cuts per kg
Technical features
Indeed, the only component to be replaced is the trash Thus maintenance, settings and spare parts of the trash
0 channel. The complete drive system of the trash conveyor removal system remain the same. This is very convenient for 0
belts is reused as well as the conveyor belts themselves. your spare parts stock and the maintenance personnel.
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History of Textufil
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Contact:
Textufil S.A. de C.V.
www.textufil.com
info @ textufil.com
The conversion
to EliTeQCompact Spinning
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Gülle Tekstil companies started their Production Capacity We at Gülle Tekstil introduced the
facilities at the beginning of 980 with MDTA 3 to overcome the problem of
a very small knitting capacity. In 983 Gülle Tekstil produces yarn in the the costly process of finding the
we established our dyeing house to range between Ne 6 and Ne 00. colour matching recipes.
improve our activities in this sector. With the existing capacity, the yarn
Investing in knitting and dyeing until production is 40 tons/day, the knitting We have bought the MDTA 3 in 2004
996, we constantly increased the capacity is 30 tons/day, the dyeing, for the purpose of producing colour
existing capacity. finishing, printing capacity is 35 tons/ matching melange samples.
day, the fibre and yarn dyeing capacity
In 996, we invested in yarn spinning is 2 tons/day We are producing melanges on the
and bought 0 Open-End rotor spin- MDTA 3 with basically the total range
ning machines. So we started produc- The company also produces its own of raw material processed in our mill
ing melange yarn as there is a big electricity. e.g. cotton, viscose, polyester, silk,
demand from the market. This invest- linen, bamboo.
ment enabled Gülle Tekstil to offer the Gülle Tekstil currently has 900
complete product range from yarn to employees. Description of the melanging process
0 fabric to the market. with MDTA 3 0
70 % of our products are exported. The
In 2000, with a second spinning main export markets are in Europe If we have a new colour yarn order, we
investment of 30,86 ring spindles, we and Asia. select of our existing mixtures the
started producing especially blends, colour recipe coming closest to the new
melange and cotton yarn. A good portion of the production is order. Then we start varying the ingre-
covered by melange yarns. For the dients by making trials on the MDTA 3 to
Between 2000-2003, we invested in most part, Gülle Tekstil sell knitted match the newly required colour.
dyeing and knitting to increase the fabrics with melange yarns. But the
capacity. melange yarn is also sold directly to After having blended the raw material
the market. on the MDTA 3, we present the MDTA 3
In 2003, we invested in ring spinning sliver to our production ring spinning
again. We finalized the first phase of When melange yarn is produced, or open-end rotor machines where a
the third investment with another finding the correct colour recipe is sample yarn is produced. In some
2,464 ring spindles. always a problem. The suitable recipe cases we also produce a melange
has to be found by experimental sample fabric. Often the melange yarn
Currently, we have a capacity of blending of different colours. This is or fabric sample is sent to the custo-
52,280 ring spindles and 2,800 open- usually very time consuming as well mer for approval, before we are start-
end rotors. With other orders already as cost intensive, especially when ing production.
placed in the course of this year, the expensive raw material like cashmere
ring spinning capacity will reach a has to be used. Once the recipes have been tested
total of almost 67,000 ring spindles. and approved on the MDTA 3 they can
be transferred : to the production
machines.
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Contact:
Gülle Tekstil
turker @ edis.tr.tc
www.gulletekstil.com.tr
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Contact:
M/s. K.P. Textiles (Cbe) Pvt Ltd,
4/237, Caltonpet (P.O), Near Sulur, Palladam (Tk),
Coimbatore – 6440, Tamil Nadu, India.
kptcbe @ sify.com
Table 2
Sector/Wrap/Strech: 350 350
Breaks / Million Meters 0.9 0.4
Weaving machine Sulzer Sulzer
Warp Breaks/0,000end/00,000 m .5 0.0
Weft breaks/00,000 m .9 .5
0 0
Of course, there were some initial pro- During the discussion the mill quality Mr. Padmanaban would not be the
blems to be overcome, but for K.P. Tex- assurance leader shared with us the successful entrepreneur he is, if he
tiles and his leader, problems are yarn parameters given in table . now decided to rest on his laurels. A
challenges to be solved. They have a further expansion by 00 looms and
The superior performance continues
very strong technical team as I could by 8,000 spindles will be undertaken
into weaving. Again, we are happy to
convince myself during a mills visit. very shortly.
share K.P. Textiles’ results with our
The quality is monitored all the way
readers (table 2). It is always a very positive experience
from the cotton to the finished fabric,
for any equipment supplier to be asso-
leaving nothing to chance. As the These values improve warping pro-
ciated to a forward-looking enterprise
famous American Edison once said: duction by 20% to 30% and weaving
like K.P. Textiles.
”Success is 20% inspiration or luck production by 0% to 20%. According
and 80% hard work”. to the weaving master, the fly genera- Figuratively speaking, equipment sup-
tion in weaving is much reduced com- pliers like SUESSEN are merely the
K.P. Textiles tell us about the following
pared to ring doubled yarn. makers of the piano. It is only our cus-
advantages of EliTwistQ over their
tomers, who can perform a symphony
conventional ring doubled yarn: According to their finishing expert, the
using the piano – we cannot!
feel of the fabric is very good, it is of
π tenacity increased by 20% to 25%
high quality, and very resistant. We at SUESSEN are proud to be a
π elongation increased by 2 – 3
small part of K.P. Textiles’ success, and
percentage points.
I personally want to thank Mr. Padma-
π Hairiness reduced
naban and his dedicated team of pro-
π Spinning breaks / 00 h reduced
fessionals for sharing all this informa-
by 20%
tion with us and with our readers.
π Fly generation reduced by 50%
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The GTN Group has been a SUESSEN Promotion Council (Texprocil), Mum- GTN Group now encompasses GTN
EliTeQCustomer right from the begin- bai; and Southern India Mills Associa- Textiles Limited, the Flagship Com-
ning. GTN and SUESSEN went tion (SIMA), Coimbatore. He was also pany of the Group, based at Cochin,
through some trials and tribulations the President of the Employers’ Fede- Patspin India Limited at Palakkad in
together during the early days of ration of Southern India; and the Kerala, as well as a new unit being set
EliTeQCompact Spinning, but they Cochin Chamber of Commerce and up at Udumalpet, near Coimbatore
never lost their faith in the system. Industry. (Tamil Nadu); and GTN Enterprises
Their patience, but also their insis- Limited, also at Udumalpet.
tence that things be right 00% greatly
inproved the EliTeQSystem. I had the . The spectacular success of your GTN Group is a pioneer in the field of
pleasure to be associated with Mr. group of companies especially in yarn Cotton Yarn Exports from India, espe-
B.K. Patodia right from the start of our exports shows, what entrepreneurial cially in fine and superfine combed
cooperation, and I learned a lot from spirit, paired with determination and yarns. In the early 980s, GTN Group
him and from his way of dealing with hard work can achieve. Please tell us a became the first in India to export
problems. I am very pleased that we little bit about yourself, your back- combed cotton yarns to sophisticated
can share some of GTN Group’s ground and how you grew over time to markets like Japan and Italy.
0 secrets of success with our readers. reach your present stature. 0
My elder son Mr.Umang Patodia, who
Ans: Our association with the textile is the Managing Director of Patspin
industry goes back to over 75 years, India Limited and is responsible for the
initially starting with trading activities. operation and management of the
Our focus changed in966, when my Spinning Units, ably assists me. My
father Mr. M. L. Patodia, Group Chair- younger son, Mr. Anckur Patodia, is the
man, took over a spinning unit with Managing Director of GTN Enterprises
a small capacity of 2,000 spindles Limited. He is mainly responsible for
at Alwaye, near Cochin, in Kerala our knitting and readymade garment
State. With this brand new venture, business that supplies both exports
I embarked into this career when and domestic markets.
I became the Managing Director of the
Company at an early age of 22. 2. Would you let us know, which are
your major markets and what count
Over the years, GTN Group, which ranges you cover in your Group and
started with a modest 2,000 spindles your present turnover.
Mr. B.K. Patodia is the Vice Chairman & and 50 workers, has since grown into
Managing Director of GTN Group. He a multi-locational Spinning Group Ans: Group’s counts range from Ne
has had the privilege of holding vari- with nearly 50,000 spindles in ope- 24s to Ne 200s and our focus is more
ous positions as Chairman of prestigi- ration. With current plans for expan- on value added products like doubled,
ous associations like the Confedera- sion, this is expected to reach 20,000 gassed, high twisted, reverse twisted,
tion of Indian Textile Industry (CITI), spindles by early 2008; along with an compact and core-spun, both for
New Delhi; The Cotton Textiles Export increase in employment to nearly 2500. weaving and knitting applications.
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TEXPROCIL Award for Excellence in This is epitomized in GTN’s branded All our production units and offices
Exports of Cotton Yarn for 9 years products INFINITI, SVELTE and are networked on a vibrant Intranet,
consecutively. WONDER TWIST which are all well which helps us to deliver high levels of
recognized labels the world over. efficiency, both internally and, most
GTN’s range of international quality importantly, to our customers.
products is a testimony to its princi- At the heart of GTN’s success lies
ples of perfection. All our spinning the dedication of its work-force. 7. One decisive trait of any successful
units are equipped with the most Committed personnel, with diligent entrepreneur is his ability to predict the
modern machines, manufactured by drive and technical expertise, foster an future a bit more accurately than the
LMW, Rieter, Truetzschler, Schlafhorst, environment of high productivity and rest of us. Please tell us your view of
Murata and SSM. Similarly, all labora- efficiency. With the collective focus the future of compact spinning in gen-
tories are fully equipped with an entire and rich experience of a motivated eral, and in your company in particular.
range of testing machines, manufac- team,the stamp of abiding devotion
tured by Uster and Spinlab. marks every product that wears the Ans: Compact spinning is THE tech-
GTN tag. nology of our future and we can
No success story is complete unless undoubtedly predict that the share of
0 fortified by research and development Every GTN employee undergoes an this technology will continue to rise at 0
activities. Our research and develop- in-house training and in-plant orienta- a rapid pace in most of the Asian
ment efforts have played an emphatic tion programme to ensure that their countries including India. Compact
role in innovation, modification and know-how is updated with the most yarns are increasingly becoming
upgradation. Today, GTN yarns are recent global trends and technologies. necessary for many present genera-
used by fashion heavyweights across Sound human resource policies and tion specialized products. In our
the globe in creating fine shirting, efficient labour management have company itself, we are already seeing
branded bed linen and made-ups, generated a successful working envi- 50% of our capacity into compact
handkerchiefs, dress material, voiles ronment. spinning and we plan to boost this
and crepes. even further.
The group recognized very early on
GTN is one of the largest users of the importance of information techno-
SUPIMA and ELS Giza cotton varieties. logy, which could help differentiate our
We were the first Indian spinners to efficiencies and provide superior cus-
be given the SUPIMA brand licence. tomer service. Keeping this objective
As the charter member and partner in in view, we implemented ERP in our
the Cotton Gold Alliance, GTN has group using SAP as early as 998.
made a significant impact in the global We have been constantly upgrading
context. our systems and currently we are ope-
rating on the latest MySAP Platform,
which encompasses the entire supply
chain within.
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Compact Spinning –
Innovation of 2 st Century
V.N. Balakrishnan, Senior Vice President Operations,
GTN Textiles Ltd./India
Ring Spinning, still the most accept- Yarn quality improvement in our count most of the articles of SPINNOVATION
able yarn spinning system, has under- ranges, ie., Ne 30s to 20s, achieved or elsewhere. However, so far, the
gone several changes to improve qua- over a period is summarised as under: phenomena of cop to cone compact
lity and productivity during these yarn quality difference have not
years. However, a major revolutionary Hairiness: by Zweigle S3 value – 60 to been dealt with in any article in the
change has taken place in 999, Com- 80%, by Uster H – 20 to 30%. SPINNOVATION. Therefore an attempt
pacting System. Strength: improvement in RKM – 0 to is made here to share our own experi-
8%, ence on the subject with our fine and
Much has been said about this great Elongation: improvement 0 to 5% superfine yarns.
system and the tremendous popula- Unevenness: 0.3 to 0.6 reductions in
tion growth speaks about its accepta- U%. Cop to cone increase
bility and benefits. Today, more than 5 IPI: 20 to 35% reduction in Imperfec- in imperfections
million compact spindles are working tions.
satisfactorily with a major contribution Ring Frame Breaks: 40 to 50% reduc- Upon the introduction of automatic
from SUESSEN EliTeQ. tion in ends down winders two decades ago, a signific-
ant increase in yarn imperfections and
0 Looking at the speed at which com- Educating the end user to exploit the hairiness was noticed in the final yarn, 0
pact is conquering the textile spinning enormous advantages of this yarn especially in counts above Ne 50s.
industry, it is clear that this is going to needs further efforts from both yarn Counts like Ne 00s and Ne 20s, the
be a normal spinning system for and machine manufacturer. In this increase in imperfections was as high
tomorrow. The tremendous benefits of regard, contribution of SPINNOVA- as 80–20%. This phenomenon of
this system are fully exploited both by TION is praiseworthy in educating the abnormal increase in imperfections
yarn manufacturers as well as end Spinner as well as the Weaver / Knitter was taken up with manufacturers of
users. in making use of the compact yarn automatic winders as well as lab
most profitably. equipment manufacturers and several
Compact spinning, the system that trials were conducted over these
ensures better optimum utilisation of We, at GTN group,installed the first years. In spite of the best efforts by the
costly raw material with minimum loss SUESSEN EliTeQRing Spinning manufacturers of automatic winders,
and damages to the fibre, improves Machine as early as 999 with just no substantial reduction could be
the yarn quality tremendously, more 3,000 spindles and today we are at achieved till now.
importantly on the hairiness aspect. almost 80,000 spindles and by st
quarter 2008, we will be completing But with the compact yarn, the adverse
This helps the weaver, besides less 00,000 spindles. Counts ranging from effect on the yarn quality after the
consumption of costly wet processing Ne 30s to 20s are regularly manufac- winding process was found signifi-
ingredients, with better machine tured, practically maintaining the same cantly reduced. For a spinner like us,
efficiency particularly on looms normal Ring Frame speed, with far bet- who is marketing yarn in the cone
and with a much cleaner atmosphere. ter yarn quality parameters. form, it was a great relief. This advant-
Contribution of compact yarn in age is accrued only due to the sub-
making dense fabrics is quite reward- The benefits accrued from this yarn stantially lower hairiness in the parent
ing. were dealt with in greater details in compact cop yarns. In table we have
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Contact:
M/s. GTN Textiles Limited
COCHIN 682 06
mktg.ho @ gtntextiles.com
www.gtntextiles.com
Table : Summary of difference in yarn quality parameters of various compact/normal yarn counts after winding
U% increase IPI Elongation UT-3 H Zweigle S3
Count (Ne) RKM diff%
(unit) Increase% diff% increase% increase%
50/ combed weaving (compact) +0. 20 0.0 +2.0 +7.7 +457
50/ combed weaving (normal) +0.7 50 +0.7 +2.7 +5.0 +88
60/ combed weaving (compact) +0. 22 –.9 0.0 +8.9 +377
60/ combed weaving (normal) +0.5 62 +0.4 0.0 +6.4 +79
70/ combed weaving (compact) 0.0 24 +2.7 +5. +7.7 +380
70/ combed weaving (normal) +0.3 65 –. +4.5 +25 +40
80/ combed weaving (compact) +0. 22 +0.7 0.0 +23.6 +896
80/ combed weaving (normal) +0.4 62 –0.4 +4.9 +7.7 +84
00/ combed hosiery (compact) +0. 25 +.8 +3.3 +7.5 +208
00/ combed hosiery (normal) +0.5 82 –0.8 +2.0 +6.7 +77
Overall average of Compact yarn +0. 23 +0.8 +2.0 +3.0 +463
Overall average of normal ring spun yarn +0.5 64 –.2 +2.8 +8.2 +94
0 0
summarised the yarn deterioration in The data used in the table is the been informing that the real ”doubled
quality of both compact and normal overall average of the yarn quality yarn effect” is not achieved in final fini-
yarns after cone winding. tested at Ring Frame Bobbin stage shed fabric with this yarn. However
and cone from the Autoconer for a later on, a few of them, realizing the
As can be seen, there is a significant period of two years. price/performance advantage, started
reduction in IPI increase in the Com- consuming. Here again, the education
pact Yarn in all the counts compared EliTwistQTechnology of the end users to exploit the maxi-
to normal yarn, without any exception. mum advantage of this yarn is to be
We have added small capacity of
However as far as hairiness is concer- undertaken by both yarn and m/c
EliTwistQSpindles and commercial
ned, the increase in Zweigle S3 values manufacturer. As far as a spinner is
production started recently in super
is much higher than normal spun yarn; concerned, the elimination of
fine counts and yarn is marketed
however the same trend is not noticed assembly winder and double yarn
under the brand ”WONDERTWIST”.
in UT3 Hairiness values. Of course twisting, result in saving in investment,
the S3 value of compact cone yarn is Initially, the customers were hesitant to power, labour, space etc. The end user
still lower by 50% of normal cone yarn. use this new concept yarn and have is also benefited by lower yarn price
Table 2: Summary of difference in yarn quality parameters of various compact/normal yarn counts after winding
counts after winding (cop to cone)
U% increase IPI Elongation UT-3 H Zweigle S3
Count (Ne) RKM diff%
(unit) Increase% diff% increase% increase%
80/ combed weaving wondertwist –0. 7 2.2 1.8 3.4 319
00/2 combed weaving wondertwist –0.1 5 2.2 5.0 4.8 350
Overall average of wondertwist 0. 6 2.2 3.4 4.1 355
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Table 3
80/2 CW-WT 80/2 CWR 80/2 CWFG
Count (Ne) % diff w.r.t. % diff w.r.t.
(TM-4.0) (TM-4.0) (TM-4.0)
Remarks Wondertwist normal normal normal normal
yarn doubled yarn gassed yarn doubled yarn gassed yarn
UTJ Results:
Single yarn strength (cN) 477.3 425.6 464.9
Rkm 33.0 29.4 32. +2.2 +2.8
Rkm CV% 6.6 7. 7.2
Elongation% 5.7 5. 5.2 +.8 +9.6
Elongation CV% 5.7 8.7 6.4
B-work (cN.cm) 74.8 59.2 643.8 +20.9 +.0
UT-3B Results:
U% 8.4 8.5 8.3 –0. unit +0. unit
Thin places (–50%)/km 0 0 0
with well acclaimed advantages of The above results are limited in scope; Despite the increase in S3 hairiness
compact yarn. also a strict comparison of cop to being high, the hairiness level of this
EliTwistQ cop to cone difference cone, as done earlier, could not be yarn is far lower than RING DOUBLED
in yarn quality, as done with single done, as the process involved here is AND TFO twisted yarns – thanks to
EliTeQYarn, is summarisel in table 2. different and not identical. compacting!
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Table 4
00/2 CW-WT 00/2 CWR 00/2 CWFG
Count (Ne) % diff w.r.t. % diff w.r.t.
(TM-4.0) (TM-4.0) (TM-4.0)
Remarks Wondertwist normal normal normal normal
yarn doubled yarn gassed yarn doubled yarn gassed yarn
UTJ Results:
Single yarn strength (cN) 374.7 39.9 347.5
Rkm 32.4 27.6 30.0 +7.4 +8.0
Rkm CV% 7.7 7.8 8.
Elongation% 5.6 4.9 4.8 +4.3 +6.7
Elongation CV% 6.0 7.2 7.6
B-work (cN.cm) 578.4 269.3 475.8
UT-3B Results:
U% 9.1 9.6 9.2 –0.5 unit +0. unit
Thin places (–50%)/km 1 0 0
The tables 3 and 4 show the difference well proved. Hairiness, obviously, is However, looking to the greater scope
in yarn qualities with respect to tradi- lower in EliTwistQYarn compared to of this system and resultant yarn, we
tional doubled yarn and gassed yarn. twisted grey yarn. However, gassed are of the opinion that this yarn can
From these limited comparative stu- yarn hairiness is definitely lower than replace conventional doubled yarn in
dies, the superiority of EliTwistQYarn the EliTwistQYarn. Similarly Classimat certain sectors of end use.
with respect to RKM and elongation is faults are also high in EliTwistQYarn.
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NEWS
EliTeQCompactSet Cotton Inc. is the development and
in the U.S. marketing organisation of the Ameri-
can cotton industry, accepted world-
Jim Blalock, American Suessen wide. In their Cary, NC, headquarters
Corporation, USA they are equipped to perform research
and development on cotton products
Two textile institutes in the U.S. are from fibre to finished goods using
working with our Fiomax E EliTeQ state-of-the-art technology. In May
Compact Ring Spinning Machine: 2000 already they purchased a
Fiomax E due to its superior design
π NCSU (North Carolina State and flexibility to spin both compact
University) and conventional yarns.
π Cotton Incorporated,
North Carolina SUESSEN upgraded this machine
Jim Blalock, ASC and
technologically thus enabling Cotton
Martin Schreiner, Associate Director,
SUESSEN updated both machines in Inc. to remain on the cutting edge of Fiber Processing, Cotton Inc.
0 spring 2007 with the components technology when spinning compact 0
incorporating the latest technological yarns.
development: new EliTops, 5starQ
Apron, new EliTubes for single yarn Mr. Clapp, Director Fiber Processing,
and EliTwistQ. . . commented that SUESSEN and Cot-
ton Inc. have maintained a mutually
At NCSU the machine serves for edu- beneficial relationship for more than
cating American students in new 25 years, because both companies
methods of spinning technology. Stu- are committed to the idea that cotton
dies have begun comparing compact fibre remains one of the most import-
yarn to conventional yarn. The next ant textile ingredients. Current and
focus will be on downstream cost- future cooperative developments will
savings by using Compact Yarn. reflect this strong commitment to pro-
viding consumers with cotton yarns
Apart from its academic benefits, the that are both performance oriented
Tim Pleasants,
machine is also available for outside and cost effective for today’s competi-
Spun Yarn Lab Manager, NCSU
trials. This service is offered for a tive and global textile marketplace.
nominal fee to domestic and interna-
Contact NCSU:
tional textile companies. M/s. Watson,
Tim Pleasants@ncsu.edu
Associate Director TexEd Programs
and Pleasant, Spun Yarn Lab Manager Contact Cotton Inc.:
thank SUESSEN for its assistance. www.cottoninc.com/FiberProcessing
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3 rd EliTeQForum To round off the theme we additionally In spring 2007 we celebrated the
invited experts from adjoining areas of 2,000,000th EliTeQCompact Spindle
Our annual EliTeQForum took place at compact spinning as from NOVIBRA, with our esteemed Turkish customer
our R&D centre WST from May 7 – . BRÄCKER, ZWEIGLE, ROSINK and MATESA Tekstil Sanayi ve Ticaret A.Ş.
This was already the third time and we SAVIO.
decided to install this event as a regu- Today we are very happy to announce
lar institution in the years to come. All participants received the precious the ceremonial handover of the
and well-known certificate SUESSEN Award to GTN Textiles
Again mill managers and owners parti- Group/ India – Sri B.K.Patodia /
cipated in the fully comprehensive Certified Technologist Chairman (see interview page 46).
training of the EliTeQTechnology of EliTeQCompact Yarn.
imparting theoretical and practical More than 2,300,000 EliTeQCompact
knowledge. All participants confirmed the intrinsic Spindles have been sold worldwide, of
value of the EliTeQForum contributing which ,000,000 to India alone.
This time we welcomed guests from to the most successful operation of
Turkey, Pakistan, Brasil, El Salvador our installations in the spinning mills. Recently we delivered the ,000,000th
0 and Bangladesh. Satisfied customers from Pakistan and EliTeQSpindle to India. By happy coin- 0
Turkey have already placed follow-up cidence, it went to our customer GTN,
The five days were filled with intense orders. who had also received the very first
training and instruction concerning one a few years back!
operation and handling of the EliTeQ
CompactSet including maintenance. We cordially invite you to the
ceremonial handover scheduled for
Our experts from the different depart- SUESSEN Awards Saturday, September 5, 2007, on
ments Service, Technical Department the premises of ITMA Munich, Hall A6,
and R & D gave valuable tips and hints During the last ITMA Asia in October Booth 35/44 at 4.00 pm.
helping our customers to make their 2005, SUESSEN could celebrate
compact spinning installations even the installation of the ,000,000th
more successful and profitable. EliTeQSpindle. The award went to
Ejaz Spinning, Pakistan.
The discussions with customers
having actual experience with Already a few months later, SUESSEN
EliTeQCompact Spinning are of course again had reason to celebrate: the
extremely valuable for the progress ,500,000th EliTeQSpindle had been
of SUESSEN’s R & D work. installed. This time, the customer was
Super Spinning of India, with their
headquarters in Coimbatore.
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0
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Product Range 2007
Compact Ring Spinning
EliTeQCompactSet
Modernization of ring spinning machines
EliTwistQ
Two-Ply Compact Yarn directly from the ring spinning machine
EliCoreTwistQ
Two-Ply Compact Yarn with Core Yarn directly from the ring spinning machine
Testing Equipment
Microdust Trash Analyser MDTA 3
s
Fibre dust and trash testing equipment
QuickSpin Unit
Prediction of yarn properties
QuickSpin System
Combination of MDTA 3 and QuickSpin Unit
0
0