CALLIOPE

BY MELISSA CLULOW

Calliope is a raglan-style sweater knit in the round from the top down featuring
expanding rib at the neckline, simple rib at the hem, and long, dramatic sleeve cuffs.
The wide, circular neckline evokes a vintage sensibility and combines with the modern,
boxy silhouette to create an updated classic that will easily fit into any wardrobe!

YARN
Émilia & Philomène JOSEPHINE (100% untreated merino); 438 yds (400 m)/100g
2 (3, 3, 3, 3) (4, 4, 4, 5) skeins
Shown in 'Essaouira'
Émilia & Philomène LÉONA (72% mohair / 28% silk); 459 yds (420 m) / 50 g
2 (3, 3, 3, 3) (4, 4, 4, 5) skeins
Shown in 'Essaouira'
OR 771 (885, 1006, 1082, 1200) (1321, 1403, 1534, 1669) m / 843 (968, 1100, 1183,
1312) (1445, 1534, 1677, 1825) yds of fingering weight yarn
AND 776 (892, 1012, 1089, 1209) (1331, 1413, 1544, 1681) m / 849 (975, 1107, 1191,
1322) (1456, 1545, 1689, 1838) yds of a mohair blend lace weight yarn

Please note that the two yarns are held together throughout. Also, while the length of this
sweater is easily customizable, be aware that adding length may affect yardage requirements.

TOOLS
For neck ribbing:
16” circular needles: 4 mm (US 6) – or one size smaller than gauge needle.

Main gauge needles - for rest of sweater (including body, cuffs, and hem):
16”, 24”, and 32” circular needles: 4.5 mm (US 7) – or size needed to obtain gauge.
Note: The two smallest sizes may require 12" circular needles or double-pointed needles
for the sleeves.

4 stitch markers to indicate beginning of round, raglan increase points, and sleeve
ribbing - it would be helpful if the first (BOR) marker looked different from the other three
Stitch holders or waste yarn to place sleeve stitches on hold
Tapestry needle to weave in ends

GAUGE
20 sts and 30 rnds = 10 cm / 4” after blocking with main gauge needles

SIZES
1 (2, 3, 4, 5) (6, 7, 8, 9)
Finished circumference:
39 (43, 47, 51, 55) (59, 63, 67, 71)”
100 (110, 120, 130, 140) (150, 161, 171, 181) cm

Measurements above are given for the finished circumference measured at the end of
the raglan increases (i.e., at underarms). This sweater is designed to be worn with
approximately 10 - 14” / 25.5 - 35.5 cm of positive ease; however, this is just a guide. Some
people prefer a closer fit; do not be afraid to select an option that provides somewhat less than
the suggested ease according to your own preferences.

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CALLIOPE
PATTERN

NECK RIBBING AND YOKE

With smaller 16" needles, cast on 96 (96, 96, 108, 108) (108, 120, 120, 120) sts. Join
in the round being careful not to twist your sts. Place marker for beginning of round
(BOR).

Round 1: *k2, p1; repeat from * to BOR.

Repeat Round 1 until neck ribbing measures 1.5” / 4 cm.

Increase round: *k2, pfb; repeat from * to BOR – 32 (32, 32, 36, 36) (36, 40, 40, 40)
sts increased
128 (128, 128, 144, 144) (144, 160, 160, 160) sts.

Next round: *k2, p2; repeat from * to BOR.

Repeat last round until neck ribbing measures 3” / 8 cm.

Increase round: *k2, pfb, p1; repeat from * to BOR – 32 (32, 32, 36, 36) (36, 40, 40,
40) sts increased
160 (160, 160, 180, 180) (180, 200, 200, 200) sts.

Next round: *k2, p3; repeat from * to BOR.

Repeat last round until neck ribbing measures 4” / 10 cm.

Switch to 24" or 32" main gauge needles depending on number of stitches on needles and
preference.

Marker setup row: Remove BOR marker, k1, replace BOR marker, k25,
PM, k55 (55, 55, 65, 65) (65, 75, 75, 75), PM, k25, PM, k55 (55, 55, 65, 65) (65,
75, 75, 75).

These markers indicate divisions between right sleeve, front, left sleeve, and back sections.

Short-row shaping: Short-row shaping will raise the back neck slightly. We
recommend the German Short Row method – you can find a great tutorial by
VeryPink Knits on YouTube here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=52qy8OOb-s0

Step 1 (RS): kfb, knit across right sleeve to 2 sts before marker, kfb, k1, SM, kfb, k3.
Work GSR.
Step 2 (WS): Purl to BOR marker. Do not turn, continue to Step 3.
Step 3 (WS): pfb, purl across back to 2 sts before marker, pfb, p1, SM, pfb, purl across
left sleeve to 2 sts before marker, pfb, p1, SM, pfb, p3. Work GSR.
Step 4 (RS): Knit to BOR marker.

Repeat Steps 1 - 4 four more times but each time work 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) (4, 5, 5, 5) sts past
the last GSR turn (note that turn sts look like two sts because of the method used but
are worked/counted as 1 st).

You will have completed 5 sets of short rows and five sets of raglan increases in
total. You should now have 35 sts for sleeves and 65 (65, 65, 75, 75) (75, 85, 85, 85)
sts each for front and back.

Begin raglan increases:

Switch to longer needles when stitches become too cramped.

Size 3 on 34" bust.

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CALLIOPE
Round 1: *kfb, knit to 2 sts before next marker, kfb, k1, SM; repeat from * three times
– (8 sts increased)
Round 2: Knit – (no increases)

Work rounds 1 and 2 a total of 10 (13, 14, 14, 15) (16, 16, 17, 18) times. You should
now have 55 (61, 63, 63, 65) (67, 67, 69, 71) sts for sleeves, 85 (91, 93, 103, 105) (107,
117, 119, 121) sts each for front and back.

Continue raglan increases as follows:

Round 1: *kfb, knit to 2 sts before next marker, kfb, k1, SM; repeat from * three times
– (8 sts increased)
Round 2: *Knit across sleeve sts, SM, kfb, knit to 2 sts before raglan marker, kfb, k1,
SM; repeat from * twice – (4 sts increased)

Work rounds 1 and 2 a total of 2 (3, 5, 5, 7) (9, 9, 11, 13) times. You should now
have 59 (67, 73, 73, 79) (85, 85, 91, 97) sts for sleeves, 93 (103, 113, 123, 133)
(143, 153, 163, 173) sts each for front and back.

Separate body and sleeves:

Removing raglan markers as you come to them, put 59 (67, 73, 73, 79) (85, 85, 91, 97)
sleeve sts onto stitch holder or waste yarn, CO 2 sts using the backwards loop
method, PM for new BOR, CO 3 more sts, knit to next raglan marker, put 59 (67, 73,
73, 79) (85, 85, 91, 97) sleeve sts onto stitch holder or waste yarn, CO 5 sts, knit to
end – 196 (216, 236, 256, 276) (296, 316, 336, 356) body sts.

BODY

Work in the round in stockinette stitch until body measures 9” / 23 cm from

underarm or until desired length. Note that adding length will affect yardage
requirements.

Begin working rib for hem as follows:

Sizes 2, 5, and 8: Skip to Round 1 of rib.

Decrease round for sizes 1 (4, 7): Work to last two stitches, k2 tog. – 195, 255, 315
sts. Proceed to Round 1 of rib.

Decrease round for sizes 3 (6, 9): *K116 (146, 176), k2tog; rep from * one more time
– 234 (294, 354) sts. Proceed to Round 1 of rib.

Round 1: *k2, p1; repeat from * to BOR.

Repeat Round 1 until ribbing measures 2.5" / 6.5 cm.

Bind off in pattern.

SLEEVES

Put 59 (67, 73, 73, 79) (85, 85, 91, 97) sleeve sts on 12"or 16" main gauge needles (of
course, double pointed needles can be substituted for any size). Knit across these
stitches, pick up and knit 2 sts from body at underarm, place marker to indicate BOR,
pick up and knit 3 more sts from body at underarm. – 64 (72, 78, 78, 84) (90, 90, 96,
102) sts. Join for working in the round.

Work in the round in stockinette stitch for 8 rounds.

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Decrease round: k1, k2tog, knit to 3 sts from end of round ssk, k1. – (2 sts decreased)

Repeat decrease round every 20 (6, 6, 6, 6) (6, 6, 4, 4) rounds 1 (5, 5, 5, 5) (5, 5, 8, 8) more times – 60 (60, 66, 66, 72) (78, 78, 78, 84) sts.

Continue in stockinette stitch until sleeve measures 7” / 17.75 cm from underarm.

Ribbed cuff:

Round 1: *k2, p1; repeat from * to BOR.

Repeat round 1 for 9” / 23 cm – add length here if desired, cuff should reach about 1.5” /4 cm below wrist. Note that adding length will affect yardage
requirements.

Bind off in pattern.

FINISHING

Weave in ends and block.

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ABBREVIATIONS TECHNIQUES
BOR: beginning of round German Short Rows:
CO: cast on Work to the stitch specified in the pattern, turn. Slip the first stitch
GSR: German Short Rows (see 'Techniques' section below) from left to right purlwise with yarn in front. Tug the yarn up and over
k: knit the right needle, creating a double stitch. This will be worked /
kfb: knit in front and back of stitch (increase) counted as a single stitch on the next row. Continue row as
k2tog: knit two stitches together (decrease) instructed in pattern.
PM: place marker
p: purl
pfb: purl in front and back of stitch (increase)
rnds: rounds
SM: slip marker
ssk: slip 1 st, slip the next, then put left needle back into the
slipped sts and knit them together (decrease)
st(s): stitch(es)

SCHEMATIC

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