Vidyanath et al.

UJAHM 2013, 01 (02): Page 5-11

ISSN 2347-2375

UNIQUE JOURNAL OF AYURVEDIC AND HERBAL MEDICINES

Available online: www.ujconline.net
Review Article

CRITICAL APPRAISAL OF COSMETICS IN AYURVEDA

Sandhya B1, Rambabu T1, Gupta Ravi Kumar1, Chaudhari Pushpawati1, Vidyanath R2*
1
P.G. Scholars, 2Professor and HOD, Dept. of Ayurveda Samhita, Dr. B.R.K.R. Govt. Ayurvedic College, Hyderabad, India

Received 10-08-2013; Revised 30-08-2013; Accepted 12-09-2013

*Corresponding Author: Dr. R. Vidyanath M.D. (Ayu); Ph.D.
Professor & HOD, Dept. of Ayurveda Samhita, Dr. B.R.K.R. Govt. Ayurvedic College, Hyderabad - 500038 India
Mobile: 09849968027, Email: vnratnakaram@gmail.com

ABSTRACT
The ancient science of cosmetology is believed to have originated in Egypt and India, but the earliest records of cosmetic substances
and their application dates back to circa 2500 and 1550 B.C, to the Indus valley civilization. There is evidence of highly advanced
ideas of self-beautification and a large array of various cosmetic usages both by men and women, in ancient India. Many of these
practices were subtly interwoven with the seasons and the normal rituals of life. Significantly, the use of cosmetics was directed not
only towards developing an externally pleasant and attractive personality, but also towards achieving excellence, longevity with good
health and happiness. Harmful chemicals found in synthetic cosmetics such as hair dyes, shampoos, nail polishes, face creams etc.
results in occupational hazards like allergies, dermatitis, respiratory health problems and even carcinogenic effects. Keeping the health
hazards with the synthetic cosmetics in view, the present study has been taken up to reveal the safest herbal beautifying formulations
embedded in the lore of Ayurvedic literature.
Keywords: Cosmetics, Health Hazards, Ayurvedic formulations.

INTRODUCTION MATERIALS AND METHODS

The word cosmetic is defined as ‘A preparation, such as A thorough study of cosmetics is done by consulting the
powder or a skin cream, designed to beautify the body by available ancient and modern literature as well as electronic
direct application’. Similarly the study or art of cosmetics and material and documented the useful and safest herbal
their use is known as Cosmetology. beautifying formulations.
In the ancient classical literature of Ayurveda, there are Observations:
several references related to a number of medicinal plants and A number of practically proven and safest formulations related
the mode of application of their processed formulations for to different conditions viz. Grey hair, Baldness, Dandruff,
enhancing complexion, treating acne, dark patches, boils and Depilation (Hair removal), Acne, Warts, Black spots,
carbuncles etc. are available. Ayurvedic cosmeceuticals are Wrinkles, Nail diseases, Cracks on the foot, Floppy Breast etc.
very much prized for their safe and holistic action. Based on have been recorded in the present study.
the vast and established knowledge of Ayurveda, herbal Greyhair
extracts, fruit extracts and essential oils are now being Nowadays grey hair is seen in many a number of people and
effectively used in medicines, food supplements and personal become embarrassing,
care. Ranges of Ayurvedic cosmeceuticals are available for particularly when it happens
ageless skin, tonifying it, smoothing its imperfections, and in the early age. Grey hair
increasing its hydration level, thus restoring a radiant and occurs when the hair is
healthy look. Such preparations actively protect the skin and devoid of the pigment called
prevent premature aging. “melanin”. The other factors
Objectives: responsible for the
• To reveal the health hazards of the synthetic cosmetics occurrence of grey hair are
• To find out the safest herbal beautifying formulations genetic predisposition, use of
embedded in the lore of Ayurvedic literature synthetic shampoos, hair
dyes and exposure to
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 Vidyanath et al. UJAHM 2013, 01 (02): Page 5-11

environmental pollution. However, some of the recipes Emblica officinalis), Neeli Patra(leaves of Indigofera
mentioned in Ayurveda can be helpful to alleviate premature tinctoria), Bhringaraja Patra(leaves of Eclipta alba)
greying of hair and also restore natural colour in certain cases. and Loha Bhasma (incinerated Iron) mixed with
• External application of the paste of Triphala sheep urine turns the grey hair into black2.
(Terminalia chebula, Terminalia bellerika and

Table 1: Showing the chemicals useful in cosmetic industry and their health hazards1
Sl. No. Chemical Uses Hazards
a) Shampoos
Petroleum based products:
b) Hair relaxers
a) Petrolatum • Potential carcinogenic (cancer
c) Anti-aging creams
b) Mineral oil causing) effect.
1. d) Mascaras
c) Paraffin
e) Perfumes
d) Paraffin oil
f) Lipsticks
e) Paraffin wax
g) Lip balms.
• Damage to the liver, lungs, and
a) Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS)/ a) Shampoo immune system
2.
Ammonium Lauryl Sulphate b) Bath & shower products • Depression of nervous system
c) Toothpaste • Reproductive system disorders
• Severe skin irritant
Phthalates: • Negative effects on the reproductive
a) Perfumes
a) Dibutyl phthalate (DBP) system and early development.
b) Hairsprays
3. b) Di(2-ethylhexyl) phthalate
c) Nail polishes
(DEHP)
d) Skin moisturizers
c) Butyl benzyl phthalate
Parabens:
a) Alkyl parahydroxy benzoates
b) Butyl
a) Deodorants • Interfere with estrogens levels.
4. c) Methyl
b) Moisturizers
d) Ethyl
e) Propyl
f) Isobutyl paraben
• Carcinogen
a) Skin lightening products • Neurotoxin
a) Hydroquinone
5. b) Moisturizers • Skin sensitizer
• Cause ochronosis

• Toxic to the human reproductive

a) Hair dyes system
6. a) Lead acetate
b) Cleansers

• Toxic effects on the human

a) Eye drops reproductive system
a) Mercury
7. b) Ointments • Carcinogen.
also known as thimerosal.
c) Mascara

a) Triclosan also known as 5- a) Liquid soaps

cholor2 (2, 4 dichlorophenoxy)- b) Deodorants • Cancer causing dioxins
8. phenol. c) Mouthwashes
d) Toothpastes
e) Vaginal washes etc.
• Skin irritant, Irritates the respiratory
tract
a) Toluene a) Nail polish. • Highly poisonous and toxic to the
9. central nervous system, eyes, blood,
liver, kidneys, and skin
• May cause women to have
spontaneous abortions.
a) Xylene or Xylol or Dimethyl • Irritates the skin and respiratory tract.
a) Nail polish • May damage the liver.
10. benzene
• Has a narcotic effect at high
concentrations

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• Nasal administration of Yashtimadhuka Taila • Similarly application of the oil prepared with the leaf
[Yashtimadhu (Glycyrrhiza glabra), Yavakshara of Jatiphala (Myristica fragrans), Karanja (Pongamia
(alkali prepared from Hordeum vulgare), Amalaki pinnata), Varuna (Crataeva religiosa),
and Tila Taila(sesamum oil)]for a period of seven Karavira(Nerium indicum) and Chitraka (Plumbago
daysis useful for the management of grey hair3. zeylanica) over the scalp alleviates baldness13.
• Nimba bija taila [Nimba Bija (seeds of Azadirachta • Application of Hastidantamasi (ash of elephant’s
indica), Bhringaraja,decoction of Asana (Pterocarpus tusk) over the scalp gives much better results in
marsupium) and Tila Taila ] used as nasal drops is curing baldness14.
effective in premature graying of hair4 Research profile:
• Regular use of Sarshapa taila(mustard oil) as Nasya 1. Many a number of research works have proved that
is also effective in the management of grey hair5 Tribulus is a testosterone booster. Low testosterone
• Intake of the decoction of Dasamoola, Bhringaraja might cause excessive hair loss. Hence, Tribulus can
and Jatamamsi (Nardostachys jatamansi) with goat's be considered as one of the drugs of choice in
milk at bedtime relieves premature graying of hair6. baldness15.
• External application of the paste of Tila, Amalaki, DANDRUFF:
Kinjalka (stamens of the lotus flower), Yashtimadhu Dandruff is a common scalp disorder affecting almost 50% of
and honey on the scalp restores the normal color of the population at the post-
the hair and also promotes hair growth7. pubertal age and of any gender. It
Research profile: often causes itching. It has been
1. Datta et al reported that the methanol extract of well established that
Eclipta alba may have potential as a hair growth keratinocytes play a key role in
promoter8. the expression and generation of
2. Eclipta alba is possessing rich source of natural dyes immunological reactions during
and the ultrasonic dyeing of cotton fabric with dandruff formation. The severity
aqueous extract of Eclipta alba is reported by of dandruff may fluctuate with
P.S.Vankar, R. Shankar and J. Srivastava9 season as it often worsens in
3. K.P.Sampath Kumar, Debjit Bhowmik et al. reported winter. Most cases of dandruff
that the Amalaki fruit is the richest source of Vitamin can be easily treated with specialized formulations.
C and is a diuretic, Laxative and hair dye10 • Pound Khas-Khas seeds (Papaver somniferum) in
4. Compared to Minoxidil, Eclipta alba initiated hair milk and apply on the scalp for the management of
growth quickly. Even the time for completed hair dandruff16.
growth was significantly less. This herb for hair • External application of the paste prepared by
growth is 46% more than Minoxidil11. pounding Amra beeja (Mangifera indica)and
BALDNESS: Haritaki(Terminalia chebula)with milk alleviates
Baldness is the partial or complete lack of hair growth, and dandruff 17.
part of the wider topic of "hair thinning". Both hair relaxer • Similarly oil prepared with Gunja phala (Abrus
solutions, and hot hair irons can also induce hair loss. In some precatorius) and Bhringaraja Swarasaisalso useful in
cases, alopecia is due to underlying medical conditions, such dandruff18.
as iron deficiency. Generally, hair loss in patches signifies • Application of the oil of Nimba and Karanja mixed
alopecia areata. Alopecia areata typically presents with sudden with Karpura (Cinnamomum camphora) over the
hair loss causing patches to appear on the scalp or other areas scalp cures the dandruff 19.
of the body. If left untreated, or if the condition does not • Grains of black gram dipped in sour gruel for three
respond to treatment, weeks and apply over the scalp for the management
complete baldness can of dandruff20.
result in the affected area, Research profile:
which is referred to as 1. Neem oil is reported to be the best fungicide21.
alopecia totalis. When the 2. The anti-microbial activity of different types of Neem
entire body suffers from extracts & Neem products are well documented in
complete hair loss, it is various studies. (Shankar narayanan 1965,Rao et al
referred to as alopecia 1986,Singh et al 1988)22
universalis. It is similar to 3. Antifungal activity of Haritaki fruit is reported by
the effects that occur with Inamdar et al 195923
chemotherapy. 4. The essential oil from the plant possesses potent anti
• External application of the paste of Gokshura fruits fungal activity against many fungi such as
(Tribulus terrestris), Tila( Sesamum indicum) Aspergillus fumigatus, Candida albicans etc.(Thind
flowers, honey, and ghee on the scalp relieves and Suri 1979)24
baldness12.

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DEPILATION (HAIR REMOVAL): • Application of paste prepared with Jati phala,

Presence of excessive hair on the Chandana (Santalum album) and Maricha (Piper
face, chest and other body parts nigrum) also cures acne.33
where terminal hair does not Research profile:
normally occur in women is 1. Rathod had conducted clinical studies on 90 patients
known as Hirsutism. It refers to a of the patients aged in between 15-30 yrs. and
male pattern of body hair and it is reported that Salmali thorn powder is very effective
therefore primarily in acne (Mukhadushika)34.
of cosmetic and psychological 2. Anil S.Managali had conducted a clinical trial and
concern. Many women with reported that Manjista Madhu Lepa was found
unwanted hair seek methods effective in the management of Yavanapidaka35.
of hair removal by means of waxing, shaving, laser treatment 3. In another study it is reported that Rubia cordifolia
etc. Since antiquity the following depilation measures were in prevents serious allergic reactions to foods and it is
practice. useful for the management of acne36.
• External application of Karaviradi taila [roots of 4. Khan.N et al. contributed for the development of
Karavira, Danti (Baliospermum montanum), Trivrit anthraquinones rich anti-acne gel from Rubia
(Operculina turpethum), Koshataki Phala (Luffa cordifolia and reported that it is a potential, safe and
acutangula), Kshara of Rambha(alkali prepared from efficacious remedy for treating acne37.
Musa paradisiaca)] over the unwanted hair is giving 5. Yaoxuexuebao in the year 1990 reported that
good results25 Rubimallin extract of Rubia cordifolia showed anti-
• Prepare the paste from Sankha Bhasma (incinerated bacterial activity 38.
conch shell - 2 parts), Manahshila (Arsenic 6. Tripathi et al. in the year 1993 studied the blood
disulphide ½ part), Talaka (Arsenic trisulphide1 purification effect of the partially purified fraction of
part), mixed with water and apply over unwanted hair this whole plant of Manjishta on rabbit platelets39.
for 7 times. It is a good remedy for depilation.26 BLACKISH SPOTS:
• Application of the paste of Dhattura bija (Datura Dark spots on the skin, also called hyperpigmentation, are a
metal) over unwanted hair is also beneficial for common skin problem especially beginning in middle age.
depilation.27 There are a variety of conditions
ACNE: and agents that can cause dark
Acne is a common skin disease spots to develop.
that involves the sebaceous glands • External application of
at the base of hair follicles and paste prepared by
occurs during puberty when these pounding Haridra
glands are stimulated by male (Curcuma longa) with
hormones produced by the adrenal Arka Kshira (milky
glands of both males and females. latex of Calotropis gigantia) over the spots is the best
There are many myths about what remedy to remove blackish spots40.
causes acne. Chocolate and greasy • Application of the paste of Manjishta and honey is a
foods are often blamed, but there simple remedy in curing blackish spots41.
is little evidence that foods have much effect on acne in most • Prepare the paste of Masura dala by pounding with
people. Ayurveda has some potent remedies for treatment of milk and apply over the blackish spots after mixing
acne from the inside out. with ghee42.
• Thorns of Salmali (Bombax ciba) are pound in milk NAIL DISEASES:
and apply the paste over the face for 3 days for the Fungal infections are caused by microscopic plants that live on
management of Acne28. our skin and on the dead tissue of our hair and nails.
• External application of the paste of Vata ankura (leaf Paronychia infection, Pseudomonas bacterial infection, Tinea
buds of Ficus bengalensis) and Masura dala (Ervum Unguis(ringworm of nails), Onychogryposis (claw-type nails),
lens) alleviates acne29. Onychorrhexis (brittle nails), Leuconychia (white lines),
• Manjistha Churna (Rubia cordifolia)mixed with Psoriasis of the nails, Brittle Nails (vertical splitting) etc. are
honey and apply over the face is an effective remedy some of the diseases of the nails.
in acne30. Chipya (Onychia purulenta):
• External application of the paste prepared by • Take Haridra Swarasa(fresh juice of Curcuma longa)
pounding Varuna (Crataeva religiosa) bark with in iron bowel and mix Haritaki Churna (Terminalia
goat’s urine cures acne.31 chebula) and apply on the nail for the management of
• Application of the paste of Jati phala (Myristica Chipya43.
fragrans) is simple and effective remedy in curing • Application of the bandage with the paste of the
acne.32 leaves of Kashmarya (Gmelina arborea) on the nail
relieves Chipya44.

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Research profile: It is not only a cosmetic problem but also when the fissures or
1. Anti-inflammatory activity of volatile oil of the cracks are deep, they are painful to stand and the skin can
Haridra was investigated with reference to the bleed and in severe cases they can be infected. For this
inhibition of activated proteases responsible for acute condition some of the Ayurvedic
inflammatory processes(Tripathi et al . 1973)45 preparations are mentioned below.
2. The anti-inflammatory effect of volatile oil of the • External application of the
Haridra has been found to be greater than that of powder of Sarjarasa(gum
hydrocortisone (Katare, 1974)46 resin of Vateria indica) and
3. Various extracts prepared from the powdered fruits of Saindhavalavana mixed with
Haritaki have been wide antibacterial and antifungal honey and ghee relieves
spectrum (Inamdar et al ., 1959)47 cracks on the foot58.
4. Kashmari, Premnazole showed anti-inflammatory • Application of Ankola patra
activity comparable to that of phenylbutazone in Swarasa (leaf juice of Alangium salvifolium) or
reducing cotton pellet induced granuloma formation Vata Ksheera (milky latex of Ficus bengalensis)
in rats. (fitoterapia 1992,63,295)48 shows positive results in crack foot59
5. Rambir Singh et al., Dr B. R. Ambedkar Center for • Application of Vacha (Acorus calamus)Churna
Biomedical Research, University of Delhi, reported mixed with Madhuchista (beeswax) and ghee is also
that the Curcuma longa rhizome extracts were beneficial in crack foot.60
evaluated for antibacterial activity against pathogenic Research profile:
strains of Gram-positive (Staphylococcus aureus, 1. Sarja rasa exhibited significant Anti-ulcer activity
Staphylococcus epidermidis) and Gram-negative against induced gastric ulcers in rats (Biswas et al.,
(Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, 1993)61
Salmonella typhimurium)bacteria. Essential oil was 2. Bagade Sarojini was conducted a clinical trial on 60
found to be most active and its activity was compared patients by comparing the efficacy of Sala Niryasa
to standard antibiotics gentamycin, ampicillin, and Madhuchista and reported that both are equally
doxycycline and erythromycin in these strains49. effective in the management of Padadari62.
6. Ronita de, Parag Kundu et al., reported the FLOPPY BREAST:
Antimicrobial Activity of Curcumin against Floppy breast probably means that more fat in breasts than
Helicobacter pylori isolates from India and during glandular tissue, which helps maintain firmness. Another
Infections in Mice50 cause: The ligaments that support breast may have become
7. N. Niamsaand C. Sittiwet reported that the aqueous stretched out. Other droop-inducers include breast-feeding and
extract of C. longa exhibited antimicrobial activity weight loss. And jogging without proper support also may
against Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus, result in floppy breast.
Krebsilla pneumonia and Staphylococcus • External application of
epidermidis.51 the oil prepared from
8. Rana Pratap Singh* and D.A.Jain reported that the Vata Kshira (Ficus
total curcuminoids content showed better benghalensis) is useful
antibacterial as well as antifungal activity as compare for the management of
to volatile oil extracted from turmeric. Kanamycin floppy breast.63
was used as standard drug for antibacterial activity • Application of oil to
and Fluconazole as standard for antifungal activity.52 the breast prepared
9. Sujata & Kulkarni ,1989 studied In Vitro from bark, root and leaves of Kashmarya (Gmelina
antibacterial activity of extracts from T.chebula arborea) is also useful.64
against gram positive & gram negative bacteria.53 • Application of the paste prepared by pounding
10. Dhar et al., 1968 reported that the anti-viral activity Eranda patra (Ricinus communis) with vinegar
of Kashmarya against Ranikheth disease.54 alleviates floppy breast65.
Kunakha (Onychogry phosis):
• Apply the paste prepared of Kushta (Saussuria lappa)
& Jeeraka (Cuminum ciminum) over the nail to
DISCUSSION AND CONCLUSION
alleviate Kunakha55 In fact, the concept of beauty and cosmetics is as old as
• Dusting the powder of Tankana on corners of nail mankind and civilization. Nowadays the consciousness of
and tying relieves in curing Kunakha56 beautification is increasing day by day not only in women but
Research profile: The essential oil of Kushta roots has strong also in men by adorning themselves with jewelry, scent and
antiseptic and disinfectant properties especially against cosmetics. Harmful chemicals found in cosmetics such as hair
streptococcus and staphylococcus (Chopra, 1958)57. dyes, nail polishes results in occupational hazards like
CRACKS ON THE FOOT: allergies, dermatitis and other respiratory health problems; and
One of the neglected parts of our body is foot, which leads to which has forced approximately 20% of hair dressers to stop
cracks on the foot and is predominantly seen in winter season. practicing their profession. Hence, herbal cosmetics have been

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 Vidyanath et al. UJAHM 2013, 01 (02): Page 5-11

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