Content Before You Start

2. Before You Start 13. Engine Parts  It is extremely important - before attempting to operate your new FX engine
– to read this Instruction Manual, and strictly adhere to the advice contained
3. Limitations of Liability 23. Installation therein.
3. Safety Precautions 29. Break-in Procedure  This engine is not a toy but a highly efficient internal-combustion engine with
power which is capable of harming you or others.
4. Warnings 30. Break-in Procedure with Break-in Bench
 This engine is intended for persons aged 16 years and older with previous
6. Very Important Warnings 36. Break-in Procedure in the Car
experience building and operating RC model racing cars and with previous
7. Warranty 38. Maintenance experience operating combustion nitro engines.

8. Included 42. Replacing Parts

 This product is not intended for use by beginners, inexperienced customers, or
by children without direct supervision of a responsible, knowledgeable adult.
8. Equipment Required 43. Bearing Change
 Before installing and operating your engine, YOU MUST read through all of the
10. Basic Information 46. Troubleshooting operating instructions and Instruction Manual and fully understand them to get
the maximum enjoyment and prevent unnecessary damage.
 Keep this Instruction Manual in a safe, easily-accessible location so you can
Your FX Engine is a high-precision, high-performance model engine intended for quickly & easily refer to it whenever necessary.
use in model cars. All of the finest engineering and craftsmanship has gone into
the concept, design, creation, and finishing of your very own FX Engine.
 Content of the box may differ from pictures shown in any promotional materials
such as catalogs, leaflets, internet web site, instruction manual, etc.
This engine and all of its parts were designed and manufactured by FX in-house
in Slovakia, Europe from all the finest European materials and using the most
 Use only genuine and original authentic FX parts for maximum performance.
advanced Swiss and German technologies. Even the crankcase was die cast in Using any third-party parts on this engine may negatively influence the
house using our own fully robotic die casting technology. All the products are performance and reliability of the engine and moreover using any third-party
individually measured and inspected and all of the important dimensions of every parts on this engine will void the warranty.
part are recorded so there is a full record of every single part being manufactured  Use only genuine FX glow plugs to ensure highest performance and long life time.
and assembled. Your engine birth certificate shows all the important serial numbers
and measurements so that, at anytime, all details of the production including the  In line with our policy of continuous product development, the exact
batch of material, machine programs, responsible craft persons and production specifications of the product may vary without prior notice.
dates can be traced back to its roots.  FX reserves all rights to change any specification without prior notice. All rights
Enjoy your royal FX Engine. reserved.

2
 Limitations of Liability Safety Precautions
 FX has no control over damage resulting from shipping, improper installation, or  When using and/or operating this engine always wear protective glasses,
improper usage. gloves, ear protection and protective shield.
 Take appropriate safety precautions prior to operating this product. You are
 FX assumes and accepts no responsibility for personal and/or property
damages resulting from the use of improper building materials, equipment and responsible for this engine installation and safe operation!
operations.  Please read the Instruction Manual before building and operating this model and
follow all safety precautions.
 By purchasing any item produced by FX, the buyer expressly warrants that
he/she is in compliance with all applicable federal, state and local laws and  Improper operation may cause personal and/or property damage.
regulation regarding the purchase, ownership and use of the product.

 The buyer expressly agrees to indemnify and hold harmless FX for all claims
resulting directly or indirectly from the purchase, ownership or use of the
product.

 By the act of assembling or operating this product, the user accepts all resulting
liability. If the buyer is not prepared to accept this liability, then he/she should
return this product in new, uninstalled, and unused condition to the place of
purchase.

 FX makes no other warranties expressed or implied.

 FX shall not be liable for any loss, injury or damages, whether direct, indirect,
special, incidental, or consequential, arising from the use, misuse, or abuse of
this product and/or any product or accessory required to operate this product.

 In no case shall FX‘s liability exceed the monetary value of this product.

3
 Warnings
 This product is not suitable for children under 16 years of age without the direct  Be sure that your operating frequency is clear before turning on or running your
supervision of a responsible and knowledgeable adult. model, and never share the same frequency with somebody else at the same
time. Ensure that others are aware of the operating frequency you are using and
 This model engine is designed exclusively for installation into model cars. when you are using it.
Never use it for any other purpose as it may cause personal injury or mechanical
failure.  Use a transmitter designed for ground use with RC cars. Make sure that no one
else is using the same frequency as yours in your operating area. Using the
 Mount the engine in your model securely, following the manufacturer‘s same frequency at the same time, whether it is driving, flying or sailing, can
recommendations, using appropriate fasteners. cause loss of control of the RC model, resulting in a serious accident.

 Assembly and operate this product only in places away from the reach of  Always turn on your transmitter before you turn on the receiver in the car. Always
children. turn off the receiver before turning your transmitter off.

 When you operate an engine, keep children and others away from you and the  Keep the wheels of the model off the ground when checking the operation of the
engine. Anyone who is not operating the engine should remain at least 6 meters radio equipment and working on your engine.
away from the engine.
 Disconnect the battery pack before storing your model.
 Keep small parts out of reach of small children. Children must not be allowed to
put any parts in their mouth, or pull vinyl bag over their head.  Exercise care when using tools and sharp instruments.

 Immediately after using your model, do NOT touch equipment on the model such  Take care when building and operating, as some parts may have sharp edges.
as the engine, muffler or manifold because they generate high temperatures.
You may seriously burn yourself by touching them.  When learning to operate your model and working on your engine, go to an
area that has no obstacles that can damage your model if your model suffers a
 Do not put fingers or any objects inside or near rotating and moving parts, as collision.
this may cause damage or serious injury as your finger, hair, clothes, etc. may
get caught.  If the model behaves strangely, immediately stop the model, check and resolve
the problem.
 Follow the operating instructions for the radio equipment at all times.
 Remove any sand, mud, dirt, grass or water before putting your model away.

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 To prevent any serious personal injury and/or damage to property, be responsible reduction. Always wear ear protection.
when operating all remote controlled models.
 Keep loose objects such as shirt sleeves, neckties, and scarves away from the
 The model car is not intended for use on public places and roads or areas where spinning tires, flywheel, and gears.
its operation can conflict with or disrupt pedestrian or vehicular traffic.
 Be careful not to drop any objects such as screwdrivers, pencils, utensils, etc
 Because the model car is controlled by radio, it is subject to radio interference into the spinning tires, flywheel, and gears. If these objects contact moving
from many sources that are beyond your control. Since radio interference can engine or transmission parts, it may cause mechanical breakage and personal
cause momentary loss of control, always allow a safety margin in all directions injury.
around the model in order to prevent collisions.

 Never operate the engine-equipped model alone. Remember that operating any  Do not use your model:
model with engine requires skills and continuous safety precautions. When you  Near real cars, animals, or people that are unaware that an RC car is being
operate a model, you should ask for the assistance of an experienced person driven.
who can accompany you, recognize emergency situations nearby, and has
enough experience avoiding possible dangers.  In places where children and people gather.
 Always test the brakes and the throttle before starting your engine to avoid  In residential districts and parks.
losing control of the model.
 In limited indoor spaces.
 Check the throttle linkage connections before starting and running the model
car. If any connections fail, it may cause personal injury.  In wet conditions.
 Before starting the engine, always check the tightness of all fasteners especially  In the street.
those on joints and moving parts such as the throttle arm. Failure to re-tighten
loose fasteners often causes part breakages that are capable of harming you.  In areas where loud noises can disturb others, such as hospitals and
residential areas.
 Keep your face, hands, and body away from the spinning flywheel, gears and
other objects on the model or engine to prevent injury. If the tires, flywheel or  At night or anytime your line of sight to the model may be obstructed or
gears break, flying pieces may result in personal injury. impaired in any way.
 In order to avoid ear damage, use an effective silencer (muffler) for sound

5
 Very Important Warnings
 Handle fuel only outdoors. Never handle nitro fuel indoors, or mix nitro fuel in a  Store fuel in a cool, dry, dark, well-ventilated place, away from heating devices,
place where ventilation is not appropriate. open flames, direct sunlight, or batteries. Keep nitro fuel away from children.
 Only use nitro fuel for RC models. Do not use gasoline or kerosene in RC models  Do not leave the fuel in the carburetor or fuel tank when the model is not in use.
as it may cause a fire or explosion, and ruin your engine. There is danger that the fuel may leak out.
 Nitro fuel is highly inflammable, explosive, and poisonous. Never use fuel  Wipe up any spilled fuel with a cloth.
indoors or in places with open fires and sources of heat.
 Be aware of spilled or leaking fuel. Fuel leaks can cause fires or explosions.
 Always keep the fuel container cap tightly shut.
 Do not dispose of fuel or empty fuel containers in a fire. There is danger of
 Always read the warning label on the fuel container for safety information. explosion.
 Nitro-powered model engines emit poisonous vapors and gasses. These vapors  If someone’s skin or face has been splashed with fuel, first wash it away with
irritate eyes and can be highly dangerous to your health. We recommend soap and water, then immediately consult a physician. If you swallow fuel, it
wearing rubber or vinyl gloves to avoid direct contact with nitro fuel. is imperative to seek immediate medical treatment. Failure to undergo such
treatment may endanger your life.
 Do not operate near open flames or smoke while running your model or while
handling fuel.  Never run your engine without an air filter. Your engine can be seriously
damaged if dirt and debris get inside the engine.
 Nitro fuel for RC model cars is made of the combination of the methyl alcohol,
castor or synthetic oil, nitro methane, etc. The flammability and volatility of  Immediately after the engine has been run there exist conditions when the
these elements is very high, so be very careful during handling and storage of engine may restart if it is rotated over compression without the glow plug battery
nitro fuel. being reconnected.
 Pour all the remaining fuel out of the fuel tank after every use. Never pour  When checking the electric conduction to the glow plug, use a tool or clamp
fuel back into the original fuel bottle after use; once the fuel is out of the to handle. Never touch the wire plug or cable directly by hand. In this situation
original container and exposed to air, the quality of the fuel is affected and it keep your face away from heated portion. Seething fuel may spout out and
deteriorates. cause a skin burn.
 Some parts will be hot after operation. Do not touch the exhaust or the engine  Make sure the air filter is clean and oiled.
until they have cooled. These parts may reach 135°C (275°F) during operation!  Excessively rich running and prolonged low speed running should be avoided.
 Keep nitro fuel away from open flame, sources of heat, direct sunlight, high Prolonged low speed running and low temperature running may result in the oil
temperatures, or batteries. in the fuel becoming gelled and the piston/liner becoming stuck together.

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 Warranty
 FX guarantees that all parts of a newly-purchased engine are manufactured with  No warranties are expressed or implied that cover damage caused by what is
the highest regard to quality. However, due to the many factors inherent in model considered normal use, or cover or imply how long any components or parts
racecar competition, FX cannot guarantee any parts once you start the engine. will last before requiring replacement.
 FX guarantees this product to be free from defects in both material and  Due to the high performance level of this product you will need to periodically
workmanship within 30 days of purchase. maintain and replace consumable components.
 The total monetary value under warranty will in no case exceed the cost of the  Do not modify the engine or any parts of it in any way. Any modifications will
original product purchased. void the warranty immediately.
 FX has no control over usage of this product once it leaves the shop, therefore  FX does not pay nor refund shipping on any component sent to FX or its
FX can only offer warranty against all manufacturer‘s defects in materials, distributors for warranty.
workmanship, and assembly at point of sale and before use.
 FX reserves the right to make the final determination of the warranty status of any
 Any and all warranty coverage will not cover replacement of any part or component component or part.
damaged by neglect, abuse, or improper or unreasonable use or as a result of
 Some small scratches may be visible on some of the components and is not
wear. This includes but is not limited to damage from crashing, chemical and/
considered a manufacturing defect.
or water damage, excessive moisture, improper or inadequate maintenance, or
user modifications which compromise the integrity of components or using
non-original parts and equipment such as glow plugs, mufflers, etc.
 Any parts missing from this product must be reported within 30 days of
purchase.
 No part or parts will be sent under warranty without proof of purchase.
 Should you find a defective or missing part, contact the local distributor.
 Service and customer support will be provided through the local hobby store
where you have purchased the product, therefore make sure to purchase any FX
products at your local hobby store.
 This product is considered to be a high-performance racing engine. As such this
product will be used in an extreme range of conditions and situations, all which
may cause premature wear or failure of any component at any time.

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 Included Equipment Required
Please refer to the exploded view sheet to see what all parts are included with your Silicone Fuel Tube
engine. Typically an FX engine includes: Special silicone fuel tube is required to connect the fuel
tank to the engine.

Glow plug
(1 piece)
Starter Box
To start the engine use professional starter box with a high
torque motor.
#104400 HUDY Star-Box On-Road 1/10 & 1/8
#104500 HUDY Star-Box Off-Road 1/8
Exhaust seal ring
(1 piece) Glow plug Starter
A glow plug starter is required to ignite the glow plug for
starting. Use a high-quality battery-operated glow plug
starter.
Cylinder-head shim
(1 piece) Temperature Gauge
A temperature gauge is useful to check the engine
temperature during the break-in period as well during
every run on the track to verify your engine works within the
standard heat limits.
Carburetor venturi
(1 piece) Glow plug Wrench
A glow plug wrench is required for removing/installing the
engine glow plug.
#107581 HUDY Glowplug Wrench # 8mm / Clutchnut #
10mm Long
Dust cap ø3, ø6, ø16, ø18 Screwdriver
(1 piece each) #154065 HUDY Slotted Screwdriver for Engine #4.0mm - Long
#111545 HUDY Allen Wrench #1.5mm
#112045 HUDY Allen Wrench #2.0mm
#112545 HUDY Allen Wrench #2.5mm
#107612 HUDY Exhaust Spring / Caster Clip Remover

8
Air Filter Oil Fuel
High quality air filter oil is required to prevent debris to get It is suggested to use high-quality RC car fuel with 16~30%
into the engine. nitro methane.
#106240 HUDY Air Filter Oil

Clutch System & Flywheel Collar Fuel Filter

To install the engine in the car you need first to install the A fuel filter is recommended to prevent debris from getting
complete clutch system on the engine. The clutch system & into the engine.
flywheel collar should be included with your car kit.

Break-in Bench Fuel Bottle

To break-in the engine we recommend using an RC car For filling the fuel tank, a fuel bottle with a suitable spout
engine break-in bench. is required.
#104140 HUDY Engine Break-In Bench #104200 HUDY Fuel Bottle with Aluminum Neck

Air Filter Motor Spray

A two-stage foam air filter must be used at all times. A motor spray is required for cleaning the engine after each
run.

Bearing Puller & Presser Flywheel Tool

Recommended for servicing and replacing the ball-bearings Special flywheel tool will be required to install the clutch
in the engine. system on your engine.
#107050 HUDY Ultimate Engine Tool Kit for .12 Engines #182010 HUDY Flywheel / Clutch Multi-Too
#107051 HUDY Ultimate Engine Tool Kit for .21 Engines #182015 HUDY Flywheel / Wheel Nut Multi-Tool 1/8 Off-Road

After Run Oil Pliers

We recommend using after run oil to extend the lifetime of Use pliers to install ball linkages and to check glow plug.
your engine. #189020 HUDY Micro Pliers - Combination
#106250 HUDY Engine After Run Oil #189030 HUDY Micro Pliers - Long Nose

9
 Basic Information
To get maximum performance and life time from your engine you need to work
and approach the engine with very specific and detailed care and attention. Every
Engine temperatures
small detail matters and has a significant influence on the performance, reliability During all the operations with your engine you need to regularly check for the
and life time. temperature of the engine. To measure the temperature use a high-quality
temperature infrared gauge and measure the temperature inside the engine head in
Terms used the area of glow plug and from the side of the engine head.

Means to tighten (close) the main (high-speed) The working temperature of the engine should be in between range 100~130°C
To make the engine leaner
needle CW (to the right). (212~266°F). The working temperature range always depends on the weather
temperature, humidity, altitude and the track conditions.
Means to loosen (open) the main (high-speed)
To make the engine richer
needle CCW (to the left). The optimum working temperature should be 100~125°C (212~257°F) when the
air temperature is in the range of 5~30°C (41~86°F).

Carburetor needle settings  The lower air temperature, the lower temperature of the engine will be.
 The higher air temperature, the higher temperature of the engine will be.
To adjust a needle or screw on the carburetor we refer to a fraction of a turn, for
example 1/12, 1/4, 1/2, etc. Sometimes the fraction of the turns are also called  The leaner the engine setting, the higher working temperature will be.
“hours“, for example 1/12 of a turn equals to 1 hour.  The more rich the engine setting, the lower working temperature will be.

1/12 = 1/12 = 1 hour 7/12 = 7/12 = 7 hours

Minimum operating temperature:
The engine temperature should not fall below 80°C (176°F) at any point while
2/12 = 1/6 = 2 hours 8/12 = 2/3 = 8 hours it is being operated.

3/12 = 1/4 = 3 hours 9/12 = 3/4 = 9 hours

Warning:
4/12 = 1/3 = 4 hours 10/12 = 5/6 = 10 hours In cases where your engine reaches temperatures higher than 140°C (284°F),
immediately stop the engine as you risk serious damage to the engine.
5/12 = 5/12 = 5 hours 11/12 = 11/12 = 11 hours

6/12 = 1/2 = 6 hours 12/12 = 1 = 12 hours

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Life time and performance of the engine How to extend the life time of your engine to the maximum
 Take the time and break-in the engine properly following the instructions in the
The performance will change during the life time of the engine. This high- Break-in Procedure part, this will significantly increase life time.
performance engine is designed for high-level racing and as such its life time
is limited. The life time of the engine is very individual and depends on various  Always using a clean air filter will greatly increase the life expectancy of the
factors and conditions. The typical life time of the engine is in the range of 0 up engine.
to 20-30 hours.
 Always use the proper air filter oil.
Typical performance during life time of the engine  After every race apply the after run oil.

Life time Performance  Always use high-quality branded fuel.

0-2 hours The engine will break-in and all parts will properly seat.  Always use only the original FX glow plug, muffler, manifold and replacement
After 2 hours of first run the performance should be very ball-bearings.
2+ hours good. The temperature of the engine should not be more than  Always clean the engine.
120°C (248°F).
The maximum performance of the engine should usually last  Always store the engine in dry area. Humidity will destroy parts of the engine.
5-15 hours
between the 5th-15th hours of run time.  Avoid excessively dusty or wet conditions.
The high performance of the engine is up to 20-30 hours
15~30 hours  Always after every run check if the wire of the glow plug is clean and has a
depending on the various factors.
smooth surface. If this is not the case, replace the glow plug immediately. A
broken glow plug may destroy your engine.
Decreasing life time of your engine
 Always after every race check if the ball-bearings have free and smooth
The life of the engine very radically decreases when you run in: movement. As soon you feel some ‘gritty’ movement immediately exchange
the ball-bearings for new ones.
 Extremely dusty conditions without a new filter for every run
 In rain (water and mud)  During the 20-30 hours of the life time of the engine there is no need to
change crankshaft, piston, sleeve or any other part. The only parts that must be
In many cases after a race in such extreme conditions the engine may be damaged regularly changed are the ball bearings, glow plug and air filter.
regardless of the amount of prior use, therefore for these extreme conditions we
suggest using an older engine if available.

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 Basic Information
Fuel consumption Top dead center
The fuel consumption depends on mix of various factors such as life time of the When the engine is cold, and especially when it is new before proper break-in, the
engine, carburetor setting, venturi size used, working temperature, air temperature, piston will feel very tight at the top of the stroke at the top of the cylinder. This is
humidity, track conditions, altitude, fuel, air filter, muffler, manifold, weight of the when the piston is at a point called TDC – Top Dead Center. This is normal!
car, traction of the car, free work of drive train, driving style, etc. To find the correct
and optimum fuel consumption setting of your engine is complex and requires The cylinder has a slight taper to the cylinder bore; the parts are designed to
testing and experience. achieve a perfect running clearance when the piston and cylinder reach the proper
operating temperature.
Generally the more running hours your engine has, the longer run time it should
have. The run time is greatly influenced by various factors such as:
 Life of your engine  Weather
TDC – Top Dead Center
 Type of the track  Muffler and manifold
 Traction  Glow plug
 Venturi used  Shims under the head

This is an average table showing the run time depending on life of your engine
under optimum circumstances:

Life time Run time

0~5 hours 6.5~8.5 min
Cold engine Hot engine
5~10 hours 7.0~9.0 min
10~15 hours 8.0~10.0 min
15~30 hours 8.5~11.0 min

The smaller venturi you use, for example 6.0 or 6.5mm the lower fuel consumption
will be. This means longer run times can be achieved, but it will be more difficult
to set the carburetor.

12
 Engine Parts
Glow plug

Engine head
Main high-speed needle (upper)

Main high-speed needle body

Carburetor fuel inlet nipple

Venturi
Venturi O-ring
Combustion chamber Idle adjustment screw

Engine head shim Carburetor slide

Mixture control needle (rear)
Carburetor slide boot
Sleeve Low-end needle (front) Carburetor body

Piston clip Piston

Isolator
Piston pin
Carburetor ball linkage Carburetor O-ring

Back plate
Conrod
Exhaust seal ring
Crankase

Back plate O-ring

Crankshaft Carburetor retainer clamp
Rear bearing Front bearing
Carburetor retainer clamp

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 Engine Parts
Carburetor 1 Main High-Speed Needle (Upper) Adjustment

There are four adjustable controls on the carburetor. There are 3 needles and 1 The Main High-Speed Needle (Upper) controls the overall fuel flow to the
screw. carburetor.

When the Main High-Speed Needle is properly adjusted, the engine

1 Main High-Speed Needle (Upper)
immediately responds to the throttle operation with clean, hard acceleration
without hesitation.
2 Low-End Needle (Front)
The main purpose of the Main High-Speed Needle adjustment:
 Controls the overall fuel flow to the carburetor.

4 Idle Screw  Controls the maximum RPM together with power of engine when carburetor
is fully open.
3 Mixture Control
Needle (Rear)

Factory Basic Carburetor Setting

The carburetor is preset at the factory and the engine should be started with these
controls set as-is. Anytime you get lost we strongly suggest returning back to the
factory basic setting. The factory basic carburetor setting may be different for the
different types and versions of engine. For the particular basic carburetor settings
please refer to the Parts List included with your engine.

Carburetor Setting After Break-in

Every type of the engine may have a different basic set-up of the carburetor after
break-in. For the suggested basic set-up of your particular engine please check the
Parts List inlcuded with your engine.

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2 Low-End Needle (Front) Adjustment 3 Mixture Control Needle (Rear)
Adjustment
The Low-End Needle (Front) controls the amount of fuel at idle and low-to-
middle RPM. The most difficult setting is the proper low-speed adjustment. The Mixture Control Needle (Rear) is
used for changing the mixture strength
Follow these principles: at middle speed and acceleration. (This
adjustment is typically reserved for only
 Use the Idle Adjustment Screw to adjust the idle RPM immediately after experienced engine tuners.)
closing the carburetor.
 Use the Low-End Needle to adjust the fuel mixture 2-5 seconds after closing
the carburetor. It is recommended to make fine adjustments in 1/12 turn
increments.

The Low-End Needle adjusts the performance of the engine between idle up to
approximately 1/4 throttle which means middle RPM. The Low-End Needle of
each individual engine is precisely adjusted at the factory.

4 Idle Screw Adjustment

The Idle Adjustment Screw is

used for setting minimum idle
RPM.

15
 Engine Parts
Muffler Manifold
The muffler is sometimes also called the pipe, silencer or exhaust system. For For maximum performance and reliability use only the original FX manifold. There
maximum performance and reliability we recommend using only the original FX are different types of the FX manifolds each designed for the particular track
muffler. All FX mufflers are specially designed and tuned to work with FX engines. conditions and for the particular engine. Please refer to the exploded Parts List
All FX mufflers are EFRA approved and as such have the EFRA number engraved. of your engine for the list of suggested manifolds. If your engine was supplied as
Please refer to exploded Parts List of your engine where you will find the suggested a combo use the manifold supplied. Typically there are three different lengths of
part number of the muffler to use for your particular FX engine. In case this engine a manifold:
was supplied as a combo with a muffler use only this muffler unless suggested
by FX otherwise. FX continues the development and improvement of all the Length Suggested
products and therefore it may happen that a new version of muffler with improved Suggested to be used for tracks with long main straights and to
performance or reliability characteristics will be available later on as an optional S = Short
achieve the highest RPM but lower performance from bottom.
part or for some particular track conditions some specific muffler should be used.
All this information you will find at the FX web site www.FX-engines.com M = Medium Suggested to be used for medium or standard tracks.
Suggested to be used for short tracks where the performance
L = Long
from bottom is required but the RPM will be lower.

16
Venturi Engine Head Shims
The venturi, sometimes called a carburetor reducer or restrictor is an insert in the The thickness of the engine head shim installed influences the volume of the
carburetor which controls the amount of air that will go into the carburetor. combustion chamber and compression which influences the quality of fuel
combustion, performance and fuel consumption.
The smaller diameter of the venturi used, the higher run time you will achieve
however the carburetor will be more difficult to tune. Check for the Parts List included with this engine to find out which size of engine
head shim is installed and which size of engine shim is included in the packaging
The larger diameter of venturi used, the larger the amount of air flow into the engine for further tuning. Anytime you get lost with the setting just return back to the basic
for cooling. engine head shim setting.

The colder the air temperature, the smaller diameter of the venturi must be used. #655922 Heatsink Head Shim 16.4x22.8x0.2 (4)
#655923 Heatsink Head Shim 16.4x22.8x0.3 (4)
The hotter the air temperature, the larger diameter of the venturi must be used.
Shim thickness When to use
Check for the Parts List included with this engine to determine which size of venturi
Use after the engine is run-in to increase power while
comes with this engine and use it for break-in procedure and as a standard basic
0.3mm shim improving fuel consumption.
set-up. Anytime you get lost with the setting just return back to this basic venturi
Use in altitudes higher than 300 meters.
size setting.
0.4mm shim
Use for standard track conditions and for run-in.
#658900 Composite Carburetor Venturi (Set) (2x0.2mm)
The set includes venturi of size (mm): 5.0 5.5 6.0 6.5 7.0 7.5 8.0 8.5

17
 Engine Parts
Glow Plug There are different types of glow plugs to be used for particular track conditions:

With a glow plug engine, ignition is initiated by the application of a 1.5-volt power Recommended glow plugs for off-road:
source to pre-heat the glow-plug filament. When the battery is disconnected, the Recommended for break-in procedure.
heat retained within the combustion chamber remains sufficient to keep the plug X3 Recommended to use when racing in lower temperatures.
filament glowing, thereby continuing to keep the engine running. Ignition timing Recommended for shorter tracks.
is automatic which means under reduced load, allowing higher RPM, the plug
becomes hotter and, appropriately, fires the fuel/air charge earlier; conversely, at Recommended for higher temperatures.
reduced RPM, the plug become cooler and ignition is delayed. X4 Recommended for longer tracks.
Recommended for final runs.

Recommended glow plugs for on-road:

Recommended for break-in procedure.
X6 Recommended to use when racing in lower temperatures.
Recommended for shorter tracks.
Recommended for higher temperatures.
X7 Recommended for longer tracks.
Recommended for final runs.
Recommended for very high temperatures.
X8 Recommended for very long tracks.
Recommended for long finals.
Your engine comes with a preinstalled glow plug and for break-in procedure and
for initial run use only this glow plug. The type and quality of glow plug used has
significant influence on performance and reliability of your engine. The FX glow
plugs are some of the highest quality glow plugs and are strongly recommended
for FX engines. Using any other glow plugs may have negative influence on
performance and reliability of your engine.

18
How to check the glow plug Glow plug life
To check if the glow plug is still working, remove it from engine and insert into the Particularly in the case of very high performance engines, glow plugs are considered
glow plug igniter to check that it glows bright red when energized. If the element as a consumable part. The glow plug must be regularly replaced. You can extend
does not glow or is dull replace it with a new plug. The glow plug filament coil the life time of the glow plug and engine performance by careful use:
(wire) must be shiny. It cannot be rough or detoriated.
 Install and use only original FX glow plugs.
Warning: Using a glow plug which has rough (detoriated) coil  Use fuel containing a moderate percentage of nitro methane unless more is
(wire) may result into breaking the wire which could get into the essential for racing events.
engine and cause significant damage.
 Do not run the engine too lean and do not leave the battery connected while
adjusting the needle.
Pliers
When to replace glow plug

OK Apart from when actually burned out, a plug may need to be replaced because it no
longer delivers its best performance, such as when:
 Filament surface has roughened.
Glow plug starter  Filament coil has become distorted.
 Foreign matter has adhered to filament; it will no longer have shiny
OK Change glow plug appearance.
 When plug body has corroded.
 Engine tends to cut out when idling.
 Starting quality deteriorates.
 When you have properly set carburetor while adding throttle the car
The wire is shiny and without The wire has rough and detoriated accelerates but then the engine suddenly stops.
any roughness. surface.

19
 Engine Parts
Back Plate
Anytime before you open or close the rear cover you need to turn the flywheel After installation of the rear cover tighten the screws securely. When the screws
assembly (clutch) on the crankshaft so you feel that the piston is in the upper part are not tightened securely, the pressure inside the engine can push against the
of the sleeve, which means the piston is in upper position TDC (Top Dead Center). backplate, causing it to move, resulting in potential damage to the internal engine
Failure to do so and opening or installing the engine rear cover may damage the components.
piston.

uninstall Back plate Install Back plate

1 Upper position TDC 1 Upper position TDC

3 Remove Back plate 2 Install Back plate

3 Tighten all screws securely

2 Remove all screws

20
Fuel and performance of the engine. The air filter should be a two-stage foam filter and
should always be clean and well lubricated with proper air filter oil. The frequency
For break-in and general running, use high-quality market-available model car fuel of cleaning, oiling and changing the air filter depends on track conditions.
with a 16-30% nitro methane by volume ratio. Always use a high-quality model engine
fuel that is compatible with the engine, and is acceptable for the intended use of the If the track is not dusty it is recommended to clean and re-oil the air filter every
model car. This is important for the engine’s proper operation, high performance, 1 hour of runtime, even if the air filter looks clean, to maintain proper engine
and long lifespan. Generally it is recommended to use a commercially-available performance and avoid engine damage.
fuel intended for model car 2-stroke engines; these fuels contain the appropriate
lubricants and additives for the intended use. If the track is dusty it is recommended to clean and re-oil the air filter after every
run.
When fuel brand and/or nitro content changes, it is recommended to adjust the
engine carburetor settings and/or glow plug heat range as appropriate, as well. The most effective method is to change the air filter for a new one instead of
Note that with high-nitro percentage fuels, power may increase but glow plug cleaning the air filter. Cleaning the air filter will decrease the efficiency of the air
elements typically do not last as long and engine life will be reduced. filter because it will “open” the pores of the filter element and dust may be able to
go through the air filter. A new air filter which is properly oiled is the most effective
Low quality or incorrectly stored fuel will have a significantly negative influence protection.
on the engine performance and life time. The typical symptoms of a poor quality
fuel are: In a situation when it is not possible to change the used air filter for a new one
it is suggested to clean all the air filter parts, wash the foam parts in hot soapy
 Yellow-brown thick coating on piston and sleeve causing stiff or sluggish water and rinse thoroughly with clean water. Dry the parts with a clean towel or
movement of the piston. A very thin coating is not a problem. compressed air – remember to use safety eyewear. Oil the foam filter element with
proper air filter oil.
 Black smoke residue on the bottom of the piston in combustion area.
 The sleeve may stick in the engine and cannot be removed.
Rain protector

Air Filter
Do not operate and run engine without an air filter and always have the air filter clean!
The air filter protects the engine from the intake of dust and other contaminants.
Dust which enters the engine will work like sandpaper and will destroy all the Two-stage foam
internal parts of the engine. A properly maintained air filter is essential to the life

21
 Engine Parts
Air Filter Oil Engine Mounts
Proper air filter oil selection is extremely important. It is suggested to use air filter The engine mounts and mounting screws are not included with engine and are
oil from professional RC companies such as the HUDY: usually part of the RC car kit. Make sure that the engine mount surfaces are level
#106240 HUDY Air Filter Oil and in the same plane. Poor installation may cause distortion of the crankcase,
bearings and other parts resulting in erratic running and loss of performance.

Apply oil on both inner and outer foam. The recommended screws for securing the engine are M3x10 steel socket head
cap screws (SHCS).

If existing holes in the engine mount do not align perfectly with engine mounting
brackets, enlarge them slightly with a needle-file so that screws are in alignment
with the mounting holes.

Inner foam
The inner part of engine
mounts can not touch the
Outer foam
crankcase body. The top
of the stands must be flat.

Fuel Filter
A fuel filter should be installed in the fuel line between the fuel tank and carburetor
to prevent dust from entering the carburetor.

Engine mounts

Chassis Crankcase must not touch the chassis

22
 Installation
Your new FX engine must be properly run-in using controlled conditions to ensure Exhaust ring
all parts become properly fit to each other and achieve the proper operating
The exhaust ring is already installed on your engine.
tolerances.

By the end of the run-in procedure, the engine should be running as close to
its actual intended running conditions as possible (with respect to fuel, RPM,
temperature, etc.).

Pre-installation Procedure
Glow plug
Your engine comes with the glow plug installed. However during the transportation
the glow plug could get loose and it is suggested, before starting for the first time,
to use a socket tool, slightly untighten the glow plug and then again tighten firmly.
Do not overtighten. Anytime you install a glow plug please be careful not to cross- Carburetor installation
thread.
Carburetor is pre-installed on your engine and is all preset in default position. In
cases when it is needed to adjust the carburetor position:

1 Loosen the retainer

screw by 2 turns.

23
 Installation
2 Push on the retainer screw which will 4 Press the carburetor down into the intake
release the internal clamp.

5 Gently tighten the retainer screw until

it stops. Please note that tightening the
retainer screws the internal clamps are
3 Rotate the carburetor to its correct position. tightening against the isolator on the
carburetor which is relatively soft. For
this reason you should not overtighten
the retainer screw as the clamp may
bite into the isolator.

Warning: You should not completely remove the retaining screw from the
engine at any time.

24
Installation
If you have already run-in the engine on a break-in bench or you will break-in the
engine in the car, proceed with the installation of your engine as follows:

1 Install the clutch system according to the

manufacturer’s instructions.

2 When installing the engine in the model car chassis, ensure that the engine
mounts are level and in the same plane. Poor installation may cause
distortion of the crankcase, bearings, etc., resulting in erratic running, loss
of performance, and possible damage to the engine.

Clutch assembly

3 We strongly recommend using steel screws to secure the engine to the

engine mounts. If the holes in the engine mount tabs (part of the crankcase)
do not align perfectly with engine mounts on the chassis, use a round
needle file to enlarge the holes slightly. Also ensure that the engine does
not interfere with chassis, etc.

25
 Installation
6 Use your radio transmitter to properly set the throttle servo end-points to
suitably control the carburetor.

7 Check that the carburetor opens and closes smoothly without binding. If there
is any restriction of movement, adjust the throttle linkage or the position of the
carburetor on the engine.

Top view

4 Install the engine into the chassis

of the model car according to the
manufacturer’s instructions. Pay
special attention to the proper gear
mesh.

Gear mesh 8 Install the manifold and muffler. To secure the muffler mount it to the
chassis as per car manufacturer’s instructions.

5 Connect all appropriate fittings and 9 Connect a fuel line from the model car fuel tank to the fuel inlet of the
linkages to the engine carburetor engine carburetor. Connect a fuel line from the muffler pressure fitting to
to properly and safely control its the pressure fitting of the model car fuel tank.
operation.

26
Starting the Engine 5 Apply the glow plug starter in preparation to start the engine.

6 Open the carburetor slightly.

1 Fill up the fuel tank.
7 Start the starter box wheel, and press
2 Turn on the radio transmitter and model car receiver.
the engine flywheel against it so it
rotates. The engine should fire up
3 Ensure the starter box wheel rotates in the proper direction to start the engine.
immediately.

4 Place the car on the starter box and fill the fuel tank, cover the outlet of the
muffler with a cloth and “dry-start“ the engine for 2-3 seconds without applying
the glow plug starter, and with the carburetor in “idle“ position; this primes the
fuel lines and allows the fuel to reach the engine.

Dry-start

Air filter

If the engine does not fire up immediately, check the fuel line to see if fuel is
reaching the carburetor. If fuel is not reaching the carburetor, remove the glow
plug igniter, cover the exhaust outlet and “dry-start“ the engine for 2 seconds.
This will build up extra pressure in the pipe and in the pressure line to the fuel
Outlet Cloth Starter box tank, causing the fuel to be pushed to the carburetor. Apply the glow plug
starter, and start the engine.

27
 Installation
8 After the engine starts, remove the glow plug igniter, and stop pressing the Stopping the Engine
model car onto the rotating starter box wheel.
NEVER stop the engine with your hands! Severe injury may result.
9 Once the engine has started, apply a little throttle and allow the engine to warm
up to operating temperature. This is an important routine that you should always
follow. The internal parts need to receive lubrication and reach operating
temperature before the engine can have a load applied to it.

0.5mm Warning: To stop the engine DO NOT cover the exhaust outlet. Oil & fuel
accumulate inside the engine and make it difficult to start again.

Warning: To stop the engine DO NOT pinch the fuel tubing from the fuel tank
to force the engine to run out of fuel. The RPM of the engine will increase while
the engine is lean which may result in failure of the glow plug.

 Once again verify the servo trim adjustment (end point adjustment) to
ensure that the range of motion of the throttle linkage for full throttle and
full brake is correct. We suggest that you keep approximately 0.5mm
clearance between the servo horn and throttle linkage when the carburetor
is fully closed. When the servo is in neutral position the carburetor must
be closed. When you apply a throttle the RPM should not drop (lowering To stop the engine it is suggested to use a plastic or soft stick to stop the engine
the idle). flywheel.

28
 Break-in Procedure
Flooding & Hydraulic Lockup A nitro-powered engine requires careful break-in the first time the engine is used to
allow the internal parts to achieve proper operating clearances. This is especially
Excess fuel in the cylinder may cause the engine to stall (by extinguishing the glow true of the piston/cylinder, crankshaft, and conrod. Pay close attention during the
plug), or it may cause a hydraulic lockup (when excess fuel fills the cylinder above initial break-in period; this process is very important to achieve the best engine
the piston, preventing the piston from moving upward). If this happens, DO NOT try performance, reliability, and lifespan.
to start the engine, or severe engine damage may result.
There are two different methods to break-in the engine properly:

A. Break-in using a break-in bench

This is the most professional and highest-quality break-in procedure and is
suggested to use, if possible. If you break-in the engine with the break-in
bench, follow the instructions on page 30.

Cloth
B. Break-in in a car
This is an alternative procedure which will allow the engine to be run-in in
Remove glow plug
conditions when a break-in bench cannot be used. This procedure is not as
1 Remove the glow plug, open the throttle fully and cover the glow plug hole controlled as using the break-in bench. If you break-in the engine in the car
with a cloth while flipping over the engine. The excess fuel will be ejected follow the instructions on page 36.
through the glow plug hole.
Before you proceed with break-in procedure ensure that your engine has:
2 Check the operation of glow plug with the glow plug starter (see page 19)  Venturi in your carburetor as per factory setting.
before screwing the glow plug back in again. Restart the engine.
 Glow plug installed as per factory setting.
3 In case the flywheel could not be  Engine head shim installed as per factory setting.
rotated, use a screwdriver and
apply pressure on the flywheel
in the rotation direction of the IMPORTAnT: During the break-in procedure, the engine should be run only
flywheel until it will unlock. SLIGHTLY rich; overly-rich mixtures and cold temperature during break-in will
lead to premature wear and failure of the piston & sleeve and other engine
components.

29
 Break-in Procedure with Break-in Bench
 Start the engine only using the spinner driver and an electric starting device.
 Keep clear of the safety guard. NEVER stick your fingers or anything else
through the safety guard.
 Only make engine adjustments when the engine is not running.

 Stop the engine by covering the muffler outlet with a cloth.

 Avoid touching the cylinder head or the exhaust pipe as this may cause
serious burns.

Setting the Engine Mounts

1 Remove the engine mounts from the base plate.

2 Attach the engine

Safety Information – Starting the Engine mounts to the
engine using 4x
Running an engine with a propeller represents great hazards. Always follow these M3x12 screws.
safety precautions:
 Wear safety glasses, ear protectors, gloves & protective shields.
 Don’t wear a tie, loose sleeves or other loose textile while using the bench. In
case of long hair, wear your hair under a hat.
 Before starting the engine, always check the mounting of the bench to the
platform.
 ONLY use the bench outside or in a well-ventilated room.
 When running the engine indoor, make sure the exhaust gases are directed to
outdoors. Stay away from exhaust gases at all times.

30
Attach the Propeller
5 Thread the spinner onto the
1 Use a crankshaft or piston locking tool to prevent the crankshaft from rotating. crankshaft, and tighten with a
This may require the removal of the crankcase rear plate or glowplug, 17mm wrench until tight.
respectively.

2 Slide the tapered flywheel cone onto the crankshaft.

3 Slide the propeller support plate onto the crankshaft. The small raised ridge
on the support plate goes TOWARD the engine.
6 Remove the crankshaft or piston locking tool (if used), and install the crankcase
rear cover.

7 Rotate the propeller to ensure it does not touch the carb. If it touches the carb,
remove the propeller, add a shim behind the tapered cone, then re-install the
propeller.
NOTE
ORIENTATION
Mounting the Engine
1 Re-attach the engine mounts
NOTE
ORIENTATION to the base plate, and align
the engine so the spinner is
centered in the safety cover.
Tighten the bottom engine
mount screws.

4 Slide the propeller onto the crankshaft. The smooth edge of the propeller
goes AWAY from the engine.

31
 Break-in Procedure with Break-in Bench
2 Attach the throttle control ball-joint to the carburetor. 4 Use a length of silicone fuel tubing to connect the fuel tank to the
carburetor inlet.

Use a length of silicone fuel tubing to connect the muffler pipe pressure
fitting to the fuel tank cap pressure fitting.

3 Attach the muffler with manifold to the engine

exhaust outlet; remember to use the proper
gasket and springs.

For break-in procedure at break-in bench you

need a manifold which allows the muffler to be
mounted from the rear of the engine.

32
Mounting the Bench All parts securely attached and tightened
There will be a lot of vibration when the engine is running. Loose parts may become
undone and cause personal injury or damage to the engine. The engine should be
tightly attached to the engine mounts, and the engine mounts tightly attached to
the bench.

Carburetor cinch bolt is tight

Make sure the carburetor cinch bolt is tight. A loose carburetor may twist during
engine operation, possibly coming into contact with the spinning propeller. This
may cause personal injury or severe engine damage.

Throttle control mechanism is tight

Make sure the throttle control mechanism is not too loose; it should remain in its
set position and not move freely.
Place the bench on a solid platform (such as a work table).
Pre-heat the engine
Slide each clamp upward until the pad touches the underside of the table.
Tighten each pad securely. Before starting the engine for the first time, pre-heat the engine head with a
hairdryer or heat gun. This expands the sleeve slightly, allows for easier starting,
and prevents excessive wear that a cold engine is subject to.
If you use a heat gun, use the lower temperature setting; DO NOT use the higher
Engine Break-in Preparation temperature range as this may be too hot. Do not direct the hairdryer or heat gun at
O-rings or other rubber or plastic parts.
This section describes steps to take to prepare for engine break-in.

Fuel tubing free from cuts and leaks

Cuts in the fuel tubing will cause fuel leaks and make the engine run too lean.

Clear area around break-in bench

Since an air filter is not used during break-in on the bench, any swirling dirt that
gets into the carb may cause internal engine damage.

33
Break-in Procedure with Break-in Bench
Starting the Engine 4 Apply the glow plug starter to the
glowplug, press the spinner driver
firmly against the spinner, and turn on
the drill (running CCW or “reverse”).

1 Securely mount the spinner driver in an

electric drill, and then put the rubber insert
in the end of the spinner driver. Set the drill
to “reverse” direction (counter-clockwise). A
minimum of 2000RPM is required to start the
engine.
5 If the engine does not fire up within 5 seconds try doing the following:
2 Fill the fuel tank. A. Check the fuel line to see if fuel is reaching the carburetor. If fuel is not
reaching the carburetor, remove the glow plug starter, cover the muffler
outlet and “dry-start“ the engine for 2 seconds. This will build up extra
pressure in the muffler and in the pressure line to the fuel tank, causing the
fuel to be pushed to the carburetor. Apply the glow plug starter and try to
start the engine again.

B. Unscrew the glow plug to check if the engine is getting any fuel. The glow
plug should be slightly wet. If it is still dry, open the Main High-Speed
Needle another ½ turn richer (CCW). Reinstall the glow plug and try to start
the engine again.

C. The glow plug may also be too wet. Start the engine without the glow plug
in place, for about 5 seconds with the throttle fully open. Fuel will escape
through the glow plug hole in the cylinder head; place a towel over the
cylinder head while doing this to avoid getting fuel over everything. Close
3 Open the carburetor to 2mm using the throttle linkage. the Main High-Speed Needle ¼ turn leaner (CW). Reinstall the glow plug
and try to start the engine again.

34
 6 Run last 1 fuel tank of fuel and vary the throttle and check the crispness of the
engine response.

7 After completing the run-in at break-in bench your engine is NOT yet ready
for high-competition racing but you can already use the engine for standard
practice at the track for another 14-15 fuel tanks (approx. 2 hours) with the
following precautions:
6 Once the engine has started, apply a bit of throttle and
allow the engine to warm up to operating temperature  Keep the engine setting more rich and permanently monitor the engine
(approximately 1 minute). This is an important routine that temperature which should be 100-120°C (212–248°F) depending on the
you should always follow. The internal parts need to receive air temperature.
lubrication and reach operating temperature.
 You may start adjusting the carburetor needles to get the engine running
cleaner. However, this must be done slowly and in stages.
Break-In Process
 After every fuel tank has been consumed turn the high-speed needle by 1/12
After installing the engine in the HUDY Engine Break-In Bench and performing the CW. Repeat this until the engine is running well, while ensuring that it is
break-in preparation, then break-in the engine by performing the following steps: not too lean, and that it is operating within the appropriate temperature
range.
1 Keep the carburetor factory settings; do not adjust.
VERY IMPORTANT: During break-in procedure never run the car at
2 Start the engine and allow it to reach operating temperature 100~130°C full throttle continuously.
(212–266°F) .
Please remember that the top performance of the engine will be reached after
3 Run 1 fuel tank of fuel with engine at 25% throttle. The engine must be run approximately 10 hours of operation.
very slightly rich. If not, adjust the Main High-Speed Needle and finish the
remainder of the first fuel tank. Temperature
4 Run 3 fuel tanks of fuel with engine at 50% throttle. The engine still must be Throughout the break-in process, regularly check the engine temperature to ensure
run slightly rich. it stays within the range of 90~120°C (194~248°F). The engine temperature and
RPM should be steady and not vary significantly; any significant changes indicate
5 Run 3 fuel tanks of fuel with engine at 75% throttle. The engine should be that the carburetor settings require attention.
running crisply now.

35
 Break-in Procedure in the Car
In situations when it is not possible to break-in the engine with the break-in bench
use this alternative break-in procedure. Install the engine in your car following the
1.) Warm-up - 2 tanks
Installation process on page 25 and follow the instructions below. 1 Start the engine for the run-in procedure as per the instructions in the section
“Starting the Engine“ on page 27. After the engine starts keep the car on the
The break-in procedure in the car is made in 4 steps: starter box with tires off the ground.
1.) Warm-up 2 tanks 2 Warm up the engine by repeatedly increasing the RPM (adding throttle) to
2.) Static run-in 4 tanks a medium speed and back again (brake) to a fast idle with the mixture set
3.) Load run-in 4 tanks very rich. This rich setting will provide good lubrication and cooling, and will
4.) Track run-in 14 tanks produce large amounts of smoke.

3 Keep the car on the starter box and run this warm-up procedure while using 2
tanks of fuel like this to clean out the engine.

WARNING: It is extremely important to set the throttle to the

correct position before starting the engine. If the engine is allowed
to run with the throttle too far open under ‘no load’ conditions
2.) Static Run-in - 4 tanks
(i.e., with the driving wheels not in contact with the ground) it will 1 Keep the car on the starter box and adjust the Idle Adjustment Screw to close
rapidly overheat and may be seriously damaged. the throttle until the clutch just starts to be driven and the engine is running
but not idling. The gap of the carburetor slide should be approximately 1mm
Do not run the engine at high RPM without load which means that as shown.
you should not pick the car off the ground and run the engine hard.
The engine will overheat without the airflow over its cooling head,
damaging the engine components.

WARNING: During the break-in procedure, the engine should be 1mm

run only SLIGHTLY rich; overly-rich mixtures and cold temperature
during break-in will lead to premature wear and failure of the
piston & sleeve and other engine components. 2 Keep the carburetor in default factory setting. In case the engine is still lean
adjust the Main High-Speed Needle to richen as needed.

36
3 Keep the car on the starter box and run the engine this way for 4 tanks. Make 4.) Track Run-in - 14 tanks - Driving at the
sure that engine vibration is minimal and the muffler loudness is as low as
possible, to prevent premature engine wear. In case the loudness is high Track with Richer Setting
making the setting more rich which will decrease the RPM at idle (turn Main
High-Speed Needle CCW) or decrease the idle (turn the Idle Adjustment After completing the load run-in your engine is NOT yet ready for high-competition
Screw CCW). Again these settings will produce large amounts of smoke. As racing but you can already use the engine for standard practice at the track for
such, run the engine in a wide open area. another 14-15 fuel tanks (approx. 2 hours) with the following precautions:

4 Now the static run-in is finished and you can put the car on the ground.
 Keep the engine setting more rich and permanently monitor the engine
temperature which should be 100-120°C (212~248°F) depending on the air
temperature.

3.) Load Run-in at the Track - 4 tanks  You may start adjusting the carburetor needles to get the engine running
cleaner. However, this must be done slowly and in stages.
Run your car on the track at low-to-medium speeds for 4 tanks of fuel, continuously  After every fuel tank has been consumed turn the Main High-Speed Needle by
without excessively long breaks.
1/12 turn CW. Repeat this until the engine is running well, while ensuring that
it is not too lean, and that it is operating within the appropriate temperature
IMPORTANT: DO NOT accelerate quickly and DO NOT use full range.
throttle at this stage. The Main High-Speed Needle should still
be set rich. Monitor the engine temperature frequently, and try Very important: During this stage never run the car at full
to main temperatures between 90–110°C (194~230°F) depending throttle continuously.
on the air temperature.

If the engine stops (dies out), restart the engine, keep the car on the starter box and
Carburetor Setting after Break-in
hit the full throttle for a short time 2-3 seconds.
Every type of the engine may have a different basic set-up of the carburetor after
break-in. For the suggested basic set-up of your particular engine please check the
A. If the engine RPM increases and the engine runs continue in run-in
Parts List included with your engine.
procedure.
B. If the engine stops because it is too rich (too much smoke and fuel coming
from the muffler), close the Main High-Speed Needle by 2/12 turns CW
(clockwise - leaner) and try again.

37
 Maintenance
Life time of your engine is directly related how you care for the engine after each
run. Every time you finish operating the engine, we strongly recommend that you
Pliers
follow a regular maintenance routine to ensure that the engine receives the proper
care it needs for long life and good performance without problems.

Glow plug starter

1.) Remove all fuel
Power the glow plug with the glow plug igniter and try to restart the engine. The
OK Change glow plug
goal is to burn off any fuel that may remain inside the engine. Do this while the
engine is still warm.
The wire is shiny and without any roughness. The wire has rough and detoriated surface.
Having fuel remain in the engine after use may promote oxidation (rust) which can
ruin the internal components of the engine (including ball-bearings, crankshaft, When to replace the glow plug
and conrod).
Apart from when actually burned out, a glow plug may need to be replaced because
it no longer delivers its best performance, such as when:
If you find oxidized parts in your engine, immediately stop using your fuel and get
fresh fuel. If you continue to have the same problem with fresh fuel, change the  Filament surface has roughened.
brand of fuel. Always use high-quality fuel.
 Filament coil has become distorted.
Foreign matter has adhered to filament; it will no longer have shiny appearance.
2.) Check glow plug


 When plug body has corroded.

If you experience any problems starting an already run-in engine first check the  Engine tends to cut out when idling.
glow plug. After every run check the glow plug even if you did not experience any
problems.  Starting quality deteriorates.
 When you have properly set carburetor while adding throttle the car accelerates
How to check the glow plug but suddenly engine stops.
To check if the glow plug is still working, remove it from engine and insert into glow
Warning: Using a glow plug which has rough (detoriated) coil
plug starter to check that it glows bright red when energized. If the element does
not glow or is burned out replace it for a new plug. The glow plug filament coil
(wire) this may result in wire breakage which will get into the
(wire) must be shiny; it cannot be rough or detoriated. engine and will destroy the engine.

38
3.) use after-run oil 4.) Remove exhaust system
Remove the glow plug and add a few drops of high-quality after-run oil into After use, the exhaust system (muffler and manifold) should be dismantled from
the engine. The oil is best added when the engine is warm as it can reach the the engine and the exhaust of the engine crankcase covered with the included dust
critical parts of the engine better. cap protectors.
Few drops
Dust cap: ø3 / ø6 / ø16 / ø18

Remove glow plug

DO NOT add after-run oil to the carburetor as this may cause damage to the
O-rings inside the carburetor. 5.) Clean your engine from outside
Before cleaning the engine, make sure that all openings are covered with dust cap
protectors.

DO NOT use light oil, kerosene, gasoline or other petroleum-based cleaning

chemicals to wash or clean the engine, as this will damage some of the
silicone parts (such as in the crankshaft, O-rings and the fuel tubing).
Rotate the engine with Dry-start a few seconds
the starter box for a few Do use methyl alcohol (methanol, methyl hydrate), fuel or motor cleaner
seconds to distribute the for washing. Remove exterior dirt with a small brush.
oil inside the engine.

39
 Maintenance
6.) Maintenance after running in water Use after-run oil to lubricate
all the internal parts of the
If you run your car in rainy/wet conditions you must also clean the engine from inside. engine. Apply the oil from the
rear back plate area and from
Clean the outside of the engine TDC – Top Dead Center the exhaust opening.
thoroughly before you open it. Work
on a clean spot. Use proper tools. Any
dust or dirt that enters the engine may
destroy the engine.

Anytime before you open the rear cover you Anytime before you close the rear cover you Top Dead
need to turn the flywheel assembly (clutch) on need to turn the flywheel assembly (clutch) Center
the crankshaft so you feel that the piston is in on the crankshaft so you feel that the piston
the upper part of the sleeve, which means that is in the upper part of the sleeve, which
the conrod is in the upper position. Failing to means conrod is in upper position. Failing
do so and opening the engine rear cover may to do so while closing the engine rear cover
damage your conrod. may damage your conrod.

Use the same cleaner as for cleaning Tighten the backplate screws securely.
the outside of the engine. Motor cleaner When the screws are not tightened securely
is pressurized and is best suited for the pressure inside the engine can push
this purpose. After the motor cleaner is against the backplate, causing it to move,
applied use a compressed air and blow resulting in potential damage to the internal
all the motor spray liquid with the dirt engine components.
out of the engine. Make sure that there is
absolutely no dirt inside the engine. Any
dirt may destroy the engine immediately.

40
7.) Air filter service  When you store your engine, remove the air filter and use the included dust cap
to seal the carburetor intake to ensure that no dirt will get into the carburetor and
 Do not operate and run engine without an air filter and always have the air use the dust cap on the carburetor needle to protect it.
filter clean! The air filter protects the engine from the intake of dust and other
contaminants. Dust which enters the engine will work like sand paper and will 8.) Dust cap protectors
destroy all the internal parts of the engine. A properly maintained air filter is
essential to the life and performance of the engine. The air filter should be two Your engine comes equipped with dust cap protectors. Anytime you dismount a
stage foam filter and should always be clean and well lubricated with proper air part from the engine cover all the openings with the dust caps immediately to
filter oil. The frequency of cleaning, oiling and changing the air filter depends prevent dust from getting into the engine.
on track conditions.
This applies to:
 If the track is not dusty it is recommended to clean and re-oil the air filter every
1 hour of runtime, even if the air filter looks clean, to maintain proper engine
performance and avoid engine damage.  Carburetor
 If the track is dusty it is recommended to clean and re-oil the air filter after every  Fuel line intake
run.
 Exhaust
 The most effective method is to change the air filter for a new one instead of
cleaning the air filter. Cleaning the air filter will decrease the efficiency of the air  Crankshaft
filter because it will “open” the pores of the filter element and dust may be able
to go through the air filter. A new air filter which is properly oiled is the most
effective protection.
IMPORTANT: Always keep the glow plug installed in your engine.
 In a situation when it is not possible to change the used air filter for a new one
it is suggested to clean all the air filter parts, wash the foam parts in hot soapy
water and rinse thoroughly with clean water. Dry the parts with a clean towel or
compressed air – remember to use safety eyewear. Oil the foam filter element
9.) Store your engine
with proper air filter oil. After you have cleaned your engine, lubricated it and covered all holes with dust
 Cleaning and re-using air filters may decrease their effectiveness, resulting caps wrap your engine in a soft cloth and store it in a dry place sealed in a plastic
in reduced performance and engine service life. We therefore recommend, bag. It is extremely important that the engine is stored in a dry area. Any increased
whenever possible, using a new air filter. humidity may damage the internal parts of the engine.

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 Replacing Parts
To extend the performance and life time of your engine automatically replace the
following parts after the specified time:
If an engine component has broken, you must check that all other moving parts
are still in good shape. If you only change one part and other parts are not in
Change When
good shape, it is highly likely that your engine will suffer another failure shortly
After 1 hour of driving (1 liter of fuel) in non-dusty conditions. thereafter.
Air filter
In dusty conditions, replace after every run.
If you replace the conrod, be sure that crankshaft pin is still round and at a good
If the rotation of the bearing is not smooth and you feel the
size. If it is not, replace the crankshaft. If you do not replace the crankshaft and re-
Front bearing operation is “gritty”.
use the engine, a failure may occur such as conrod breakage.
When dust and corrosion get into engine.
Steel bearing after 10 hours.
Rear bearing Steel & ceramic bearing if dust & corrosion get into If the crankshaft pin is not round or is not shiny,
engine. the following may occur:
Conrod After 15 hours or if damaged.  Bushing on conrod will wear very fast.
Only when sleeve is damaged (i.e., if dust or contaminants
Sleeve & piston  The conrod may rub on the rear backplate, where it will remove very small
cause scoring of the piston/sleeve).
pieces of aluminum from the backplate which will get into fuel mixture and
will destroy piston and sleeve.
It is normal that performance of the engine may decrease as parts wear. To extend
the lifetime of your engine it is recommended to replace necessary parts when the
following symptoms are detected: The crankshaft pin will wear in situations when:
 Engine sound changes and easily overheats.  Engine is run lean for a long time which provides inadequate lubrication for
the engine.
 Power levels drastically reduced.
 Using low-quality fuel which does not have sufficient amount of lubricant.
 Idling is unstable and/or engine tends to stop at idling.

 In most cases, ball-bearings, sleeve and piston assembly, connecting rod or

crankcase have become worn out. Check the parts carefully and replace them
if necessary.

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 Bearing Change
To change the ball-bearings we recommend using special tool and equipment By tightening the clamping nut, the front bearing will be pressed out of the engine
designed for RC car engines, such as the ball-bearing puller and presser from HUDY. case and into the cavity of the support bushing. Sure to hold the bearing presser
body while tightening the clamping nut. When the clamping nut can not be
tightened anymore, the front bearing has been pressed out from the engine.
Removing the Front Bearing
The front bearing is pressed out when
Assemble the main tool body by sliding the presser adapter and collar bushing the bearing presser body is fully
onto the presser body shaft. Make sure to use the correct collar bushing; the 1 Hold the pins tightened.
collar bushing should pass through the rear bushing and rest against the inner
edge of the front bearing. Secure the presser adapter onto the presser body by
tightening the setscrew.

Slide the main tool body through the engine bearings from the rear as shown.

Slide the support bushing onto the front of the tool, noting the proper orientation
2 Tighten
with the cavity facing the engine housing.

Finally, screw the clamping nut onto the threaded end of the presser body.
Unscrew the clamping nut from the bearing presser body and remove tool pieces
from the engine. Remove the front bearing from the support bushing.

2
Note orientation

3 Remove 1 Loosen
4
1

3
2 Remove

43
 Bearing Change
Removing the Rear Bearing
Assemble the rear bearing removal tool according to the exploded view. Note that
you must tighten the setscrew onto the flat spot of the puller shaft. Be sure to
2
use the correct collet to match the rear bearing in your engine. After you have
assembled the tool, insert it into the engine as shown. Continue retracting
the adjusting nut
to pull out the rear
2 Tighten fully bearing
3 Tighten
fully 1 Hold the puller base plate until it
will seat against the crankcase

4 Pull out the tool; the rear bearing stays on the expanded collet and is removed when
you remove the tool.
1 Hold the puller base plate

3
Retract the collet expansion nut to capture the rear bearing, and then tighten the Loosen the collet Remove the tool from the engine
adjusting nut to pull the rear bearing out of the engine housing. expansion nut to housing
colapse the collet 1
2 Retreat the collet expansion
nut to expand the collet in
the rear bearing.

2
Hold the pins 4
Remove the rear bearing
1 Hold the pins

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Installing Front & Rear Bearings When both bearings are fully seated,
loosen the tool and then remove it.
Use the front bearing tool to install both front and rear bearings. Note the orientation
of the support bushing. When installing the bearings you MUST turn around the
support bushing so the cavity is facing AWAY from the engine.

1 Hold the pins

2 Note
orientation 2 Loosen

Bearings can be inserted separately. When 3

4
exchanging only one bearing, keep the other
bearing in the engine.

Hold the pins of the clamping nut, and then

tighten the tool shaft. Press in the bearings until
both are fully seated in the engine housing.

1 Hold the pins

2 Tighten

45
 Troubleshooting
SYMPTOM Engine spins but will not start.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Make sure your glow plug starter is fully charged and is properly connected to the glow plug. If the starter is fully charged, replace the glow plug.
Verify that fuel is getting to the carburetor. Remove the fuel line from the carburetor and see if there is fuel in it.
Check your carburetor settings. It may be necessary to adjust the carb settings if the weather has significantly changed since the last time you ran the engine.
The engine’s compression may be low due to wear. This will make the engine difficult to start when it is warm, and may tend to stall when running and when the throttle
is closed suddenly.

SYMPTOM Engine will not spin (starter box will not turn the engine).
CORRECTIVE ACTION
The engine may be flooded and hydraulically locked. Refer to section “Flooding & Hydraulic Lockup“.
Check for binding at the engine flywheel. If you are not able to turn the engine by hand, the engine could be flooded, there could be binding in the clutch system, the
piston may be stuck at the top of the cylinder (TDC), or there could be internal engine damage. (Note: During engine break-in, it is normal for the engine to be extremely
tight and hard to turn when the piston reaches the top of the cylinder.)

SYMPTOM Engine is very sluggish, hard to start, and will not idle during initial break-in.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
The factory default break-in settings (on the carburetor) may be too rich for your location, weather conditions, or fuel brand. Extremes in temperature, humidity,
barometric pressure, and altitude can not always be accounted for by the factory default settings. These symptoms may occur when air density is very low (such
as in high mountains or extremely cold temperatures). Under these conditions, lean the Main High-Speed Needel slightly (1/8 turn CW), and check if there is any
improvement in starting and idling. Only lean the Main High-Speed Needel until the engine runs and idles reliably, then continue the break-in process.
Different fuel brands/types – in combination with extreme weather conditions – can also make the factory default break-in settings too rich and cause these symptoms.
Try leaning the Mixture Control Needle slightly (1/8 turn CW), and check if there is any improvement in starting and idling.

46
SYMPTOM Engine performance is sluggish.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Engine performance depends on the carburetor settings and how they compensate for the weather & atmospheric conditions. Before suspecting other issues, richen the
Main High-Speed Needle by at least 1/12 turn CCW, then retune the engine.
Try installing a new glow plug.
If carburetor settings are proper, ensure the fuel is fresh. Old fuel, or fuel that has been left uncapped for a long period, may cause sluggish performance.
Verify that there is no drivetrain binding.

SYMPTOM Piston stuck at top of cylinder – Top Dead Center (TDC).

CORRECTIVE ACTION
A brand new engine that has not had a lot of break-in will typically have a very tight fit between the piston and the top of the cylinder (known as “pinch“), since the
cylinder has a tapered fit.
The fit should not be so tight that the engine can not be started. If the piston gets stuck at TDC, use a pair of pliers to grasp the flywheel from the bottom of the engine.
Rotate the flywheel CCW (viewed from the front of the engine) until the flywheel turns; you should feel the piston become unstuck from the top of the cylinder.

47
Troubleshooting
Symptom Engine fails to fire.
Cause Corrective action
Fuel tank is empty. Fill the tank with fuel and repeat priming procedure.
Fuel not reaching the engine. Check fuel lines.
Glow plug element is burn out. Replace glow plug.
Glow plug battery discharged. Recharge or replace the battery.
Clogged fuel filter. Clean or replace fuel filter.
Air filter is dirty. Replace air filter for new one.
Muffler is dirty inside. Clean muffler inside.
Over priming. Remove glow plug and pump out excess fuel.
Fuel tubing is disconnected. Connect fuel tubing securely.
Fuel tubing is kinked, split or has hole. Check the tubing carefully and replace if necessary.
Incorrect servo linkage. Connect correctly after setting servo at neutral.
Make sure starter box wheel rotates the engine flywheel in a counter clockwise
direction when viewed from the front of the engine. If you are unsure, very slowly
Reverse rotating direction of starter box wheel.
push the car forwards on the ground and watch the direction the clutch bell rotates,
the starter wheel must also turn the engine in this direction.

48
Symptom Not reaching expected peak RPM.
Cause Corrective action
Insufficient warming up. Set the carburetor needles only after engine has reached normal operating temperature.
Insufficient break-in time. Complete the break-in procedure.
Replace seal ring.
Muffler or manifold is not securely connected or is disconnected.
Check the connections and secure them.
Fuel tubing from tank is split or broken. Replace fuel tubing.

Symptom Poor RPM drop at idle.

Cause Corrective action
Throttle position open too far. Close Low-End Needle (front) to adequate position to lower idle RPM.
Carburetor not fully seated. Install carburetor securely.
Metering needle closed too far. Open Low-End Needle (front) a little.

Symptom Poor response.

Cause Corrective action
Deteriorated glow plug. Replace glow plug.
Incorrect carburetor settings. Readjust low RPM range with Low-End Needle (Front) and Mixture Control Needle (Rear).
Incorrect setting of transmitter exponential function. Check the transmitter setting.
Incorrect linkage. Make sure the throttle servo linkage does not bind and is connected correctly.

49
Troubleshooting
Symptom Unstable idle.
Cause Corrective action
Unsuitable glow plug. Use suggested and only the original FX glow plug.
Unsuitable fuel. Do not use extremely high nitro or low oil content fuel.
Extremely light flywheel. Add heavier flywheel.
Muffler is disconnected or has play. Install muffler securely.

Symptom Engine fires intermittently but does not run.

Cause Corrective action
Insufficient fuel in the tank. Fill the tank with fuel.
Deteriorated glow plug. Replace glow plug.
Clogged fuel filter. Clean or replace fuel filter.
Air filter is dirty. Replace air filter for new one.
Muffler is dirty inside. Clean muffler inside.
Engine overheated. Wait until engine is cool.
Incorrect clutch release. Adjust the tension of clutch spring.
Starting battery disconnected too soon. Do not disconnect plug battery and wait until RPM becomes stable.
Vibration causing air bubbles in fuel. Install O-rings on the fuel tank mounting screws to prevent bubbles.

50
Notes

51