Cosmetic Science

1. Write the definition and ideal properties of cosmetic.
DEFINITION OF COSMETICS AS PER INDIAN REGULATIONS:

➢ As per Section 3(aaa) of the Drugs and Cosmetics Act 1940 and Rules 1945, Cosmetic means any article intended
to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or sprayed on, or introduced into, or otherwise applied to, the human body or
any part of body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance, and includes
any article intended for use as a component of cosmetic.
DEFINITION OF COSMETICS AS PER EUROPEAN UNION (EU) REGULATIONS:

➢ The European Union Cosmetics Directive defines a cosmetic as "Any substance or preparation intended to be
placed in contact with the various external parts of the human body (epidermis, hair system, nails, lips and
external genital organs) or with the teeth and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity with a view exclusively
or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance and/or correcting body odours and/or
protecting them or keeping them in good condition. "
❖ Ideal Properties of Cosmetics:
1. Cosmetics should be non-toxic, non-irritant and acceptable to regulatory agencies.

2. They should be readily applicable and pleasant in use.
3. They should be physically and chemically inert.
4. They should be Economical.
5. They should have long lasting property.
6. They should have ability of masking the imperfections of skin.
7. They should be stable and have good appearance.
8. Cosmetics should provide significant cleaning, if intended for.
2. Write the definition of Cosmeceuticals, Cosmetology, Cosmetologist.
❖ Definition of Cosmeceuticals:
The cosmeceuticals can be defined as topically applied product with both cosmetic and pharmaceutical functionality.
• Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products with biologically active ingredients purporting to have medical or drug-
like benefits.
• Cosmeceuticals are topically applied, but they contain ingredients that influence
• the biological function of the skin.
• Cosmeceuticals improve appearance, but they do so by delivering nutrients necessary for healthy skin.
• Cosmeceuticals are the fastest-growing segment of the natural personal care industry.
❖ Definition of Cosmetology:
The study of cosmetics is called "Cosmetology".
• It is the treatment of skin, hair, nails and includes manicure, pedicure, applying of artificial nails on special
occasion, hair styling, shampooing hair, body hair removal, chemical hair relaxers or straighteners, perming,
colouring, highlighting of hair, hair extensions and wig treatments.
❖ Definition of Cosmetologist:
A person who is licensed in cosmetology is called Cosmetologist.
3. Classify Cosmetic .
❖ CLASSIFICATION OF COSMETICS:
Cosmetics are classified into four main categories which are as follows-
1. According to their use.
2. According to their functions.
3. According to their physical nature.
4. According to their state.
1. Classification of Cosmetics according to their use:

Based on the site of application, cosmetics are classified into main five categories-
(a) Use for skin.
(b) Use for nails.
(c) Use for teeth and Mouth.
(d) Use for Hairs.
(e) Use for eyes.
(a) For skin:

➢ The skin mainly intends to protect human beings against environmental aggressions. The cosmetic products that are
poured, rubbed or applied on skin are known as skin cosmetics.
➢ Skin cosmetics are the range of products that support skin integrity including nutrition, avoidance of excessive sun
exposure and appropriate use of emollients that enhance skin tone and beautification.
➢ These are also components of wound healing, neonates, elderly, stomas, radiation treatment and with some medication.
Examples: creams, powders, deodorants, lotions, antiperspirants, moisturizers, perfumes, skin toner, etc.
(b) For nails:

The nails, in particular the nails plates of the fingers of hands and feet, have been subjects of decoration in terms of shine or colour.
Examples: Nail lacquers, nail lacquer remover, cuticle removers, manicure and pedicure preparations etc.
(c) For teeth and mouth:

➢ Dental care products are meant for keeping the dental structure healthy, strong and protected against any infection
(oral).
➢ These are also meant for keeping the enamel on teeth intact.
➢ Cosmetic mouthwashes consisting of water, alcohol, flavour (essential oils) and colour primarily function to remove or
destroy the bacteria in the oral cavity.
Examples: Dentrifices, mouthwashes, dental powders, lotions, gargles, mouth fresheners.
(d) For eyes:

Since eyes are very sensitive and important part of our body and also require high lightening during beautification but with utmost
care and protection.
Examples: eye creams, eyelashes, eyeliners, mascara and eye shadow.
(e) For hairs:

➢ Hair cosmetics are the range of products that are used for hygiene of hairs involving hairs grows from human scalp, facial,
pubic and other body hairs.
➢ Hair care routines differ according to an individual's culture and the physical characteristics of one's hair.
➢ Hairs may be coloured, trimmed, shaved, plugged or otherwise removed with treatments such as waxing, threading etc.
Examples: Shampoo, hair removers, hair dyes, hair sprays, depilatories, hair wave preparation,epilatories, shaving preparation etc.
2. Classification of cosmetics according to their functions

(a) Curative and therapeutic:
Some cosmetic products which are used for the purpose of beautification are also meant to have curative and therapeutic prope rty.
Examples: antiperspirants and hair preparations.
(b) Protective:
Some cosmetic products have the protective functions which not only protect our skin from external environmental factors, but also
reduce its intensity so as to enable the skin to develop its own protection against exposure.
Examples: sunscreens.
(c) Corrective:
The cosmetic products which are applied to correct or improve tone and mask the imperfection either from face, hairs, heals, nails,
teeth etc.
Examples: Crack creams.
(d) Decorative:
Decorative function of the cosmetics gives the person a feeling of confidence, happiness during occasion. The cosmetic product
which provides decorative function highlights different body parts like nail and hairs by different shades of colours and shi ne etc.
Examples: lipsticks, nail lacquer, eyelashes, mascara etc.
3)Classification of cosmetics according to their physical nature

(a) Aerosols:
Aerosols are the pressurized dosage forms containing one or more active ingredients.
In aerosols, the product material can be removed without contamination of remaining materials, so that the product can be
delivered directly to affected area.
Examples: Hair perfumes, after shave lotion, etc.
(b) Cakes:
Cakes are the semi-solid preparations which are formed by applying accurate pressure. A well formulated cake will come out easily
with a sponge and should cover the skin uniformly.
Examples: Rouge compact, makeup compact.
(c) Emulsions:
An emulsion is a biphasic liquid dosage form in which two immiscible liquids are made miscible by the addition of a third sub stance
known as emulgent or emulsifying agent.
Examples: vanishing cream, cold cream, cleansing cream, all purpose cream.
(d) Oils:
➢ An oil is any neutral, non-polar chemical substance, that is a viscous liquid at ambient temperature and is both
hydrophobic and lipophilic.
➢ Oils may be of animal, vegetable or petrochemical origin. They may be volatile or non-volatile.
Examples: Hair oil.
(e) Pastes:
➢ These are semisolid preparations meant for external application to the skin.
➢ Due to the presence of large amounts of solids, they are less attractive cosmetically than ointments. Since pastes are stiff,
they do not melt at ordinary temperature, thus forming and holding a protective coating over the areas to which they are
applied.
Examples: Tooth paste, deodorant paste.
(f) Powder:
➢ Powders are the solid dosage forms which are meant for internal and external use.
➢ They are available in crystalline or amorphous form.
➢ In cosmetics, powders are used for face and body care, not only by women but also by men. The body powders are also
known as dusting powders.
Examples: tooth powder, talcum powder, face powder.
(g) Solution:
➢ Solution is a homogeneous mixture composed of two or more substances.
➢ The solution assumes characteristics of solvent i.e. its phase.
Examples: After shave lotions, hand lotions, astringent lotions, etc.
(f) Soaps:
➢ Soap is a salt of fatty acids.
➢ Soaps are used for cleaning and are obtained by treating vegetable or animal oils and fats with a strong base such as
sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide in aqueous solution.
Examples: shaving soaps, bathing soaps, toilet soaps and shampoo soaps.
(g) Sticks: e.g. Lipsticks, deodorant sticks.
4. Classification of cosmetics according to their state

(a) Solid: e.g. Powders.
(b) Liquid: e.g. Lotion, mouthwashes.
(c) Semisolid: e.g. gel, cream
4. Classify Cosmeceuticals
❖ Classification of Cosmeceutical Products
I. Retinoids
II. Sun screens,
III. Moisturizers
IV. Antioxidants
V. Hydroxy acids
VI. Proteins/ peptides
VII. Depigmentation agents
VIII. Growth factor
1. Retinoids :
Retinoids are premier evidence-based cosmeceuticals, as they function through surface cell receptor interaction to produce a
clinically defined effect. Other retinoids such as pro-B vitamins (niacinamide and panthenol) function differently by physically
enhancing barrier properties of stratum corneum. These are the most prevalent cosmeceuticals in the market.
a. Retinoic Acid (Tretinoin): There is extensive literature on the use of tretinoin, which is considered to be one of the most
potent compounds for treating the signs of aging and/or photodamaged skin, including fine lines, hyperpigmented spots,
and wrinkles.
b. Retinol (Vitamin A): Retinol is oxidized into retinaldehyde and then into retinoic acid the biologically active form of
vitamin A. In vivo studies showed that topical retinol had o a modest retinoid-like biological activity compared with
topical retinaldehyde and retino... acid. Two randomized, controlled trials reported significant improvement in fine
wrinkles after 12 and 24 weeks of treatment, respectively.
c. Retinaldehyde: Retinaldehyde is viewed in a large part as an intermediate form during the conversion of retinol to
retinoic acid. Studies have shown that it does have activity in human skin.
2. Sunscreens :
Sunscreens are the single most important cosmeceutical, because they protect skin against solar radiation, which is the most
important damaging environmental agent. As a result, they help to prevent the signs of aging. To be effective, sunscreens sho uld
provide broad spectrum coverage that includes both UVA and UVB blocking agents to inhibit photoaging and be part of a daily ski n
care regimen.
a. Green Tea Extract: Research has shown that green tea (Cammelia sinensis) polyphenols are potent suppressors of
carcinogenic activity from UV radiation and can exert broad protection against other UV-mediated responses, such as
sunburn, immunosuppression, and photoaging.
b. Ferulic Acid: This compound, derived from plants, is considered to be a potent antioxidant, and has been shown to
provide photoprotection to skin. Furthermore, when ferulic acid is combined with vitamins C and E, the product has been
shown to provide substantial UV protection for human skin.
3. Moisturizers :
Moisturizers are most useful product for management of various skin conditions (e.g., atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, pruritus, and
aging skin). These products include emollients, occlusives, and humectants. Majority of moisturizers enhance skin barrier fun ction.
Moisturizers claim to make the skin smoother, softer, more radiant, less wrinkled and firmer.
4. Antioxidants :
Topically applied antioxidants enhance the skin's natural antioxidant protection system. They reduce free-radical damage by
blocking the oxidative processes in cells. These are used to protect skin from photo damage, cancer and photoaging.
a. Alpha-Lipoic Acid (ALA): Alpha-lipoic acid has anti-inflammatory properties and acts as an exfoliant. In a split face
study, topical 5% ALA applied b.i.d. for 12 weeks reduced skin roughness, lentigines and fine wrinkles. This agent does
not protect against UV-induced erythema or reduce the number of sunburn cells.
b. L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C): There is clinical data to support the use of topical vitamin C to improve fine lines and
reduce both pigmentation and inflammation, and many cosmeceutical formulations contain this antioxidant.
c. Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): Niacinamide is a potent antioxidant that is generally well tolerated. It improves the lipid
barrier component of the epidermis, thus reducing transepidermal water loss, and acts as an inhibitor of melanosome
transfer, resulting in reduced hyperpigmentation. Studies have revealed significant reduction in fine lines and wrinkles,
hyperpigmented spots, red blotchiness, and skin sallowness, as well as improved skin elasticity.
d. N-Acetyl-Glucosamine (NAG): NAG is a more stable form of glucosamine, and may prevent new signs of photodamage
from occurring, and fade existing imperfections by interrupting the chemical signals that promote melanin production.
e. Alpha-Tocopherol (Vitamin E): When taken orally, a-tocopherol protects membrane lipids from peroxidation. It has
been shown to reduce sunburn cells after UV exposure, neutralize free radicals, and act as a humectant.
f. Ubiquinone (CoQ10): Ubiquinone is a naturally occurring, fat-soluble antioxidant and there is good in vitro evidence
that it can suppress fibroblast production of UVA-induced collagenase, thereby reducing collagen breakdown. It has been
shown to be effective against UVA mediated oxidative stress in human keratinocytes.
g. Grape Seed Extract: It is a potent antioxidant and has been shown to speed wound contraction and closure. Topical
application of grape seed extract has also been shown to enhance the sun protection factor in humans.
5. Hydroxyacids :
These include a-hydroxyacids (AHAs; glycolic acid, lactic acid) and ẞ-hydroxyacids (BHAs; salicylic acid). Hydroxyacids are used
worldwide and most probably for centuries as active dermatological drug and cosmetic ingredients. The exact mechanism of acti on
of hydroxyacids remains unknown and is largely controversial. Some experts claim that AHAs increase the synthesis of
glycosaminoglycans which improve the quality of elastic fibers, and increase density of collagen; whereas BHAs have dermolyti c
properties and help in various xerotic and icht
6. Topical Proteins and Peptides :

Cosmeceutical peptides have the potential to improve the appearance of aging skin. Topical peptides are regarded as cellular
messengers that are formed from amino acids and are designed to mimic peptide fragments with endogenous biologic activity.
These pentapeptides (e.g., KTTKS) are comprised of a subfragment of type I collagen propeptide, and play a role in signalling
fibroblasts to produce collagen in the skin, which can improve the appearance of wrinkles.
7. Depigmentation agents :
Skin-lightening agents added to product formulations have become increasingly popular. Common depigmenting ingredients
include hydroquinone, ascorbic acid (vitamin C), kojic acid, and licorice extract (glabridin).
a. Hydroquinone: Hydroquinone has been the agent of choice for skin lightening. However, there are concerns over
exogenous ochronosis and permanent depigmentation, as well as possible carcinogenicity, and it has been banned as an
over-the-counter depigmenting agent in Europe, Australia and Japan.
b. Ascorbic acid (Vitamin C): Ascorbic acid is a naturally occurring antioxidant found in citrus fruits and leafy green
vegetables. It is hydrophilic, so skin penetration is low.
c. Kojic acid: Kojic acid is a less commonly used bleaching agent. When combined with dipalmitate, there is improved skin
penetration and greater stability, but there is little research to support its efficacy.
d. Licorice Extract (Glabridin): Several studies on melasma have shown good efficacy with only mild irritation that
disappeared with discontinuation.
8. Growth factors :
➢ Epidermal growth factor (EGF) stimulates epidermal growth and is used in the treatment of burns and excision wounds,
where it accelerates re-epithelization. Transforming growth factor (TGF) stimulates normal skin growth and cellular
growth and repair. TGF exerts positive regulatory effects on the accumulation of the body's extracellular matrix proteins.
➢ TGF is also a mediator of fibrosis (repair tissue formation) and angiogenesis (development of new blood cells) and it
promotes the healing of wounds.
5. Explain Evolution of Cosmeceuticals from Cosmetics
❖ Evolution of Cosmeceuticals from Cosmetics:

1) The health-giving property of cosmetics was first identified by the Egyptians.The cosmetics were first used by Egyptians
in 4000 B.C whose records are being available. The health-providing property of cosmetics was first discovered by the
Egyptian in 4000 B.C.
2) Up to the beginning of 19th century, there was no clear separation between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, the
separation occurred when the first modern pharmaceutical industry was developed. Till early 19th century, there was no
definite difference between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, the separation happened when the first modern
pharmaceutical industry was established.
3) In 1980’s there was a rapid expansion of the cosmeceuticals due to hydroxy acids (natural fruit acids) used as exfoliants
against wrinkles. In 1980’s, a rapid expansion of the cosmeceuticals occurred due to hydroxyl (acids natural fruit acids)
used as exfoliants against wrinkles.
4) In 1961 the term cosmeceuticals was coined by the Raymond Reed, founding member of the United States Society of
Cosmetic Chemists. In 1961 the word cosmeceuticals was created by the Raymond Reed,founding member of the United
States of Cosmetic Chemists.
5) Albert Kligman in 1971 developed a formula to improve the appearance of UV damaged and wrinkled skin, using retinoic
acid thereby reactivated interest of the people in cosmeceuticals. World-renowned dermatologist. In 1971, Albert
Klingman, world’s renown dermatologist, created a formula to enhance the appearance of UV harmed and wrinkled skin,
utilizing retinoic acid thereby regenerated the intrigue of the masses in cosmeceuticals.
6) Dr. Kligman made a long-lasting contribution to the world of skincare by discovering that topical retinoic acid (or
tretinoin) can be used for both an acne and wrinkle treatment.
7) Dr. Kligman may be described as the father of cosmeceuticals. a term he popularized; but cosmeceuticals first appeared in
the world market in 1996.
8) The several cosmetic jars have been unearthed by the Archaeologists whose hieroglyphics say “good for sight” and “stops
bleeding”.The Archaeologist whose hieroglyphics reads “good for sight” and “stop bleeding” has unearthed several
cosmetics jars.
9) A medical papyrus “Ebers,” which was written in 1600 BC, makes frequent reference to a number of cosmeceuticals-type
products. “Ebers” a medical papyrus written in 1600 BC, makes recurring reference to a number of cosmeceutical-type
items.
10) The favourite was the one prepared using honey and milk that claimed to help cure skin diseases, while different product
mentioned in the Ebers, claiming to “expel wrinkles from the face”, were made from frankincense, balantine oil, rush oil
and wax in equal proportions. The best was the one prepared from milk and honey that declared to cure skin diseases,
while the product introduced in the Ebers, declaring to “expel wrinkles from the face”, were prepared from frankincense,
balantine oil, rush oil, wax in similar proportion.
11) A dark powder knows as Kohl was being applied around the eyes in an almond shape with a stick. Kohl was made of
different colours of copper ore, lead, ochre, ash, burnt almonds and oxidised copper. Kohl was being put around the eyes
in drop shape with a stick. Kohl was a dark powder made up of distinct colours of copper ore, lead, ochre, ash, burnt
almonds and oxidized copper.
12) Red clay mixed with water was the choice of make-up, for the cheeks and lips. Henna was used to paint the finger-nails
yellow or orange. Henna was used to colour the finger-nails yellow or orange. Red clay mixed with water was used for
cheeks and lips as make-up.
13) Egg whites, gum Arabic, beeswax and gelatine were used to create nail colour in ancient China. In ancient China, nail
colour was prepared by egg whites, gum Arabic, beeswax and gelatine.
14) As time moved on cultures were fused and the Greeks began to move into cosmetics history and accept the use of
Egyptian cosmetics. They did it just simply to look good and not for spiritual purposes. With passing time cultures were
mixed, the Greek showed interest in cosmetics history and acquired the use of Egyptian cosmetics. They did it just to look
good.
15) Centuries later, as the Romans moved in they started the use of cosmetic formulas for other purposes, such as creating
aphrodisiacs. They started to use blood mixed sheep fat for nail polish and instead of just using the traditional body oils
created by Egyptians, they took baths in mud and crocodile excrement. After Centuries. Romans started using cosmetics
formula for purpose like creating aphrodisiacs. They used blood mixed with sheep fat for nail paint and in place of using
the body oils formulated by Egyptians, they took bath in mud and crocodiles remain.
6. Describe Cosmetic As Quasi And Otc Drugs
❖ COSMETICS AS QUASI AND OTC DRUGS

➢ Quasi drugs are one of the primary categories of beauty products in south Korea.
➢ The other category of beauty products is cosmetics.
➢ There is a thin line between drugs and cosmetics, which can be considered as quasi-drugs.
➢ Since their benefits are not as suitable as drugs: South Korea's health authority (HA) and the ministry of food and drug
safety (MFDS) has categorized them under skincare products like acne for skin dullness.
▪ Quasi drugs are generally classified into two types:
o GROUP 1
➢ Items used for sanitary purposes such menstrual pads as sanitary pads, tampons and The textiles used for manufacturing
masks such as dust and surgical masks. & masks Wet wipes for oral hygiene.
➢ Sanitary products used for protection, preservatives, and treatment of affected areas that bandages. ed for prote different
kinds of bandage, plastics
o GROUP 2
➢ Odour inhibitors like toothpaste, antiperspirants and bath products.
➢ Hair care products that are only meant for external usage.
➢ Products that don't contain nicotine for those who smoke.
➢ Ointments and anti-inflammatory products for external use.
❖ COSMETICS AS OTC DRUGS

➢ OTC drugs are medicines sold directly to the patients without prescription from healthcare professional.
➢ OTC drugs are usually regulated according to the active pharmaceutical ingredient (API), rather then final products.
➢ By regulating API instead of drug formulation, government allows manufactures the freedom to formulate ingredients.
➢ Similarly cosmetic products can be considered as OTCs.
➢ Some products meet the definitions of both cosmetics and drugs.
➢ Certain claims may cause a product to be considered a drug, even if the product is marketed as a cosmetic.
➢ OTC products compliant with the OTC drug monograph may be marketed without prior FDA approval.
➢ For example, in the U.S antidandruff shampoos and sunscreen products are considered to be OTCS.
➢ OTCs must be manufactured and controlled in accordance with cGMP requirements for pharmaceuticals for human
consumption.
➢ According to consumer healthcare products association (CHPA),73% Americans would rather treat themselves at home
than to see a doctor.
➢ Americans buy more the 5 billion OTC drug products each year -60% of drugs used.
ADVANTAGES OF OTC DRUGS:

1. More benefits less risks.
2. Low misuse and abuse potential.
3. Consumer are able to self diagnose, self treat, self manage.
4. Adequately labelled.
5. Health practitioner are not needed.
DISADVANTAGES OF OTC DRUGS;

1. Reduced opportunities to receive counselling about possible lifestyle therapies.
2. Poorer compliance.
3. Misdiagnose patients wont benefit from the drug but will be exposed to its risks.
4. More difficult to study a drugs effects.
7. Write the structure and function of skin.
❖ SKIN
Definition:
➢ Skin the heaviest single organ of the body, combines with the mucosal lining of the respiratory, digestive and urogenital
tracts to form a capsule which separates the internal body structures from the external environment.
➢ It not only physically protects the internal organs and limits the passage of substances into and out of the body but also
stabilizes temperature and blood pressure with its circulation and evaporation.
Structure of skin:
1. THE EPIDERMIS:
The multilayers of epidermis varies in thickness, depending on cell size and number of cell layers; Downward the
epidermis comprises of five distinct and separate layers.
▪ STRATUM CORNEUM:
➢ Superficial layer of epidermis is stratum corneum.
➢ It plays a crucial role in controlling the percutaneous absorption of chemical substances.
▪ STRATUM LUCIDUM:
➢ In the palm of the hand and the sole of the foot, an anatomically distinct, poorly staining hyaline zone forms a thin,
translucent layer immediately above the granular layer.
➢ This region is stratum lucidum.
▪ STRATUM GRANULOSUM:
➢ This layer is above the keratinocytes.
➢ This zone is a region of intense biochemical activity and morphological change.
▪ STRATUM SPINOSUM (PRICKLY CELL LAYER):

➢ This layer forms by the basal layer as they moved upward.
➢ They are also called polygonal cells, prickle cells, because ause they interconnected by fine prickles.
▪ STRATUM GERMINATIVUM:
➢ These basal cells are nucleated, columnar and about 6µm wide, with their long axis.
2. DERMIS:
➢ Lying between the subcutaneous fatty region. Epidermis and
➢ Consists of dense network of structural protein fibres i.e. collagen, reticulum and elastin, embedded in the semi gel
matrix of mucopolysaccharideic ‘ground substances’.
➢ It is 0.2 to 0.3 cm thick.
➢ Elasticity of skin is due to the network or gel structure of the cells.
➢ Beneath the dermis, the fibrous tissue opens out and merges with the fat containing subcutaneous tissue.
3. SUBCUTANEOUS TISSUE
➢ It is a sheet of fat rich areolar tissue, known as superficial fascia, attaching the dermis to the underlying subcutaneous
structures.
➢ It is quite elastic.
➢ Large arteries and veins are present only in the superficial region.
4. SKIN APPENDAGES
The skin is interspersed with hair follicles and associated sebaceous gland like pilosebaceous glands and in sweat gland – specific
regions two type of Glands :-
• ECRINE SWEAT GLAND

➢ Salty sweat glands are distributed over the surface of the body. Over the
➢ They are simple and coiled tube like structure.
• APOCRINE GLANDS
➢ It present only in selected region of the body viz. axillae, anogenital region and around the nipples.
➢ These are 10 times larger than eccrine glands and secrets a milky substances containing protein, lipoprotein, lipids and
diverse proteins.
❖ Functions of Skin
The skin performs a multitude of functions listed below:
1. It forms the protective waterproof layer which acts as barrier against injury and microbial invasion, chemical agents and
various environmental agents.
2. It contributes to thermoregulation by liberating sweat, on the surface and by adjusting the flow of blood in the dermis.
3. It also serves as blood reservoir where dermis houses and extensive network of blood vessels that carry 8-10% of total
blood in a resting adult.
4. It serves as the medium of sensation, including tactile sensation touch, pressure, vibration and tickling as well as thermal
sensation such as warmth and coolness and also the sensation of pain.
5. It excretes sodium chloride and metabolites like urea.
6. It also helps in maintaining water and electrolyte balance.
7. It helps in synthesis of vitamin D from ergosterol of skin by the action of UV rays of sunlight.
8. It synthesizes melanin from tyrosine.
9. It secretes sweat and sebum which keep the skin soft.
10. It stores fat, water, chlorides and sugar.
7. Write the structure and growth cycle of Hair.
Hair:
➢ Hair is made from strong structural protein named as Kerotin.

➢ This is of exactly the same protein from which the nail and outer skin layer is comprised.
Structure:
Hair is made up of two separate structures
1. The hair follicle

2. The hair shaft
1. HAIR FOLLICLE: The living part of the hair
➢ Contains the germinal matrix, which is where cells produce new hairs.
➢ Contains the bulb, which is the stocking-like structure that surrounds the papilla and germinal matrix. It’s fed by
capillaries.
➢ The follicle is surrounded by an inner and outer sheath that protects and molds the growing hair shaft.
➢ The inner sheath follows the hair shaft and ends just before the opening of the sebaceous gland.
➢ The outer sheath continues all the way up to the sebaceous gland
HAIR SHAFT: The dead hair
➢ The innermost layer: This is called the medulla. Depending on the type of hair, the medulla isn’t always present.
➢ The middle layer: This is called the cortex, which makes up the majority of the hair shaft. Both the medulla and the
cortex contain pigmenting cells that are responsible for giving hair color.
➢ The outermost layer: This is called the cuticle, which is formed by tightly packed scales in an overlapping structure that
resemble roof shingles. Many hair conditioning products are formulated to even out the cuticle by smoothing out its
structure.
Hair Growth Cycle:
The human hair growth cycle is a fascinating biological process that consists of four distinct stages: Anagen, Catagen, Telogen, and
Exogen. Each stage plays a crucial role in determining the length, texture, and overall health of our hair. Understanding these stages
is essential for pharmacists, as it allows them to recommend effective treatments and products to promote healthy hair growth.
Let’s delve into each stage of the hair growth cycle to gain a deeper insight into this intricate process.
1. Anagen Phase:The Anagen phase is often referred to as the growth phase of the hair cycle. During this stage, hair follicles
are actively producing new hair cells, resulting in hair growth. This phase can last anywhere from 2 to 7 years, and the
length of the Anagen phase largely determines the maximum potential length of an individual’s hair.
2. Catagen Phase:Following the Anagen phase, the hair enters the Catagen phase, also known as the transitional phase.
This stage is relatively short, lasting about 10 days. During Catagen, hair growth stops, and the outer root sheath shrinks
and attaches to the root of the hair. The hair follicle then begins to detach from the dermal papilla.
3. Telogen Phase:The Telogen phase is often referred to as the resting phase of the hair growth cycle. In this stage, the hair
follicle remains dormant for about 3 to 4 months. While the old hair is resting, new hair begins to grow underneath it.
Approximately 10-15% of hair is in the Telogen phase at any given time.
4. Exogen Phase:The final stage of the hair growth cycle is the Exogen phase, during which shedding of the old hair occurs.
This phase is essential for the renewal of the hair follicle and allows new hair to continue growing. On average, individuals
shed about 50 to 100 hairs per day during the Exogen phase.
22 Cosmetic Science
CHAPTER
2 Cosmetic Excipients
2.1. COSMETIC EXCIPIENTS
2.1. 1. Introduction
The substances having no or insignificant pharmacological activity but added to
active pharmaceutical ingredient, to get the intended properties of the formulation,
are called excipients. According to IPEC, “ Excipients are products having slight or
no action and intended to add in formulation to make it more effective”.
2.1 .2. Properties of Excipients

Excipients have a variety of functions, which are:
1 ) For a specific result , the physicochemical properties of excipients are taken
into consideration.
2 ) By altering the concentration of the same excipients, it can be employed for
different functions.
3 The excipients must not interfere with:
)
i ) Dosage form,
ii ) Drug release,
iii ) Stability, and
iv ) Acceptability.
2.2. SURFACTANTS
Surface active agents or surfactants
are the molecules which remain
active at the surface. These agents
decrease the surface tension at the
surface of the liquids by getting Hydrophilic head Hydrophobic tail
adsorbed either at the surface
Figure 2.1: Surfactant Molecule
( junction between a gaseous phase
and either solid or liquid phase) or
at the interface ( boundary present between two immiscible phases).
A molecule of surfactant shown in figure 2.1 is an amphiphilic molecule that
comprises of a polar head ( hydrophilic ) and a non-polar tail ( hydrophobic ). The
hydrophilic head group present in surfactant can be either ionic or non -ionic,
whereas the hydrophobic tail is either branched or linear long-chain hydrocarbon
residue with a chain length of 8-18 carbon atoms.
- -
Surfactants used in cosmetics should be non irritating, non toxic, colourless,
highly stable, and have no unpleasant odour.
Cosmetic Excipients (Chapter 2 ) 23
2.2.1. Classification
Depending upon the dissociation medium of the surfactants and the charges
carried by them ( after dissociating ), surfactants are divided into:
1 ) Anionic Surfactants: Fatty acid soaps, sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium
laureth polyoxyethylene ether sulphate, sodium cetyl polyoxyethylene ether
phosphate, and soybean phospholipids ( lecithin ) are the anionic surfactants
used in cosmetic products. They are mostly used in the formation of
cleaning, wetting, emulsifying and foaming products due to their strong
detergency characteristics.
2) Cationic Surfactants: Primary , secondary and tertiary amines and quaternary
ammonium salts of higher alkyl groups ( like octadecyltrimethylammonium
chloride, C12-14 alkyl dimethylbenzylammonium chloride, double ten
octamethyldimethyl chloride, etc. are cationic surfactants. They are a good
bactericidal, antistatic agent, have softening, waterproof and fixing effects in
cosmetics.
3) Amphoteric Surfactants: Cocamidopropyl betaine and imidazoline are
some of the amphoteric surfactants used in the formation of cosmetics. They
show a good laundering effect, mildness, low toxicity, and low irritancy to
skin and eyes. They also add the properties of softening, antistatic,
emulsifying, dispersing and sterilising in the cosmetic products.
-
4) Non ionic Surfactants: Ethylene oxide adduct, polyoxyethylene lauryl
ether, coco fatty acid diethanol amide, oleic acid monoglyceride,
polyoxyethylated castor oil, and ethoxylated lanolin are the most commonly
used non-ionic surfactants in cosmetics. They do not cause skin irritation,
and show properties of emulsification, solubilisation, stability, and
compatibility ( with other surfactants ).
2.2.2. Applications
1 ) Solubilisation: It is the increase in the effect of solubility of partially soluble
or insoluble substance. Mostly, solubilisers are used in the formulation of
lotions, hair oils, and hair conditioners. Solubilisers vary in different
cosmetic products because of the difference in structure and polarity of oily
ingredients, like perfumes, oils, and oil -soluble vitamins.
For example, fragrance, oil, chemical, etc. are the solubilising objects of the
lotion ; accordingly, alkyl polyoxyethylene ether can be its solubilising agent .
Castor oil -based amphoteric derivatives have excellent solubility for perfume
oils and vegetable oils, and such surfactants are non -irritating to the eyes, so
are suitable for non -irritating shampoos.
2) Emulsification: It is the method of forming emulsion by mixing water-
insoluble substance with water. Mostly , emulsifiers are used in the
formulation of creams and lotions. Non -ionic emulsifiers are most widely
used as they cause less irritation.
3) Dispersion: It is the phenomenon in which the non -aqueous substance forms
fine particles in water and is uniformly dispersed. Powders, solvents and
dispersing agents form the dispersion system of cosmetic products.
24 Cosmetic Science
Powders can be inorganic ( talc, mica, titanium dioxide, and carbon black) or
organic pigments. They are added in the formulation for getting good colour and
sunscreen effect. Solvents can be aqueous or non-aqueous. Dispersing agents are
classified into hydrophilic dispersing agents and lipophilic dispersing agents.
4 ) Cleaning: Shampoos, shower gels, and facial cleansers are some of the cleaning
products. These products should be mild to the skin, along with the properties of
cleansing, foaming, and wetting. The surfactants used in the cleaning products
should keep the skin in a normal state, and not penetrate the skin and damage the
epidermal cells. Anionic surfactants have been used for cleaning.
Sodium lauryl sulphate shows a good cleaning effect on the skin , hence it is
the most common raw material used in the formulation of cleaning
cosmetics. Imidazoline, cocamidopropyl betaine , and amino acids are mild
cleansing amphoteric surfactants, used in the preparation of facial cleansers,
shampoos, and baby shampoos.
5 ) Softening: Generally, good softening and antistatic properties can be seen in
cationic surfactants. Hence, they are mostly used as conditioning agents in
hair conditioners. Monoalkyl and dialkyl quaternary ammonium salts ( like,
Cl 6-18 monoalkylamine salt , double Cl 6-18 alkyl quaternary ammonium
salt , and alkylbenzyl quaternary ammonium salt ) are the most common
cationic surfactants used in the preparation of cosmetic products.
6) Wetting and Penetration: The moisturising effect of surfactants gives
comfortable and soft feeling to the user. Phospholipids ( main component of
biological cells) are responsible for the metabolism of a cell and permeability
mediation of cell membrane, and provide a good moisturising and
penetration effect on the skin . Sophorolipid biosurfactant also makes the skin
feel soft and moist , as it contains affinity for the skin . Biochemical active
substances, vitamin derivatives, enzyme preparations, cell growth factors
( EGF, DFGF), collagen , elastin, ceramide, and hyaluronic acid involve in the
metabolism of skin cells and can change the skin structure ( for anti -wrinkle,
anti-aging and whitening effects ) by penetrating the skin.
2.3. RHEOLOGY MODIFIERS

Rheology is the science or study of how things flow. A personal care product
should flow in the right way . For example, a skin cream should appear highly
viscous in the jar but should be capable of being picked up and rubbed into the
skin ; nail polish should be sufficiently viscous to suspend the high volume of
suspended pigment , not drip from the brush but thin sufficiently on the nails to
cover them uniformly.
Rheology modifiers are often referred to as thickeners. It will also be essential to

choose the correct rheological characteristics to ensure the stability of finished
formulation . To achieve such varied effects, a number of different types of
rheology modifier are available. These include natural gums ( guar gum and
starch ), modified naturals (cellulose derivatives ), modified synthetics ( acrylic
polymers ) and inorganic ( clays ).
Cosmetic Excipients ( Chapter 2 ) 25
1 ) Aqueous Phase Additives
i ) Rheoluxe Associative Thickeners: These are non -ionic polymeric
thickeners designed for personal care market. Rheoluxe consists of
urethane-based and polyether polyol -based associative thickeners with
superior performance in systems containing high salt levels or with
extremes in pH. Due to its structure, Rheoluxe is soluble in water, but
associates with lipophilic materials to build viscosity .
INCI Name Use Level Chemistry
Rheoluxe 812 Bis- lauryl Cocami nopropyl amine / 1.0-3.0% Polyurethane
hDl PeG 100 Copolymer ( and )
/ -
Butylene
Rheoluxe 880 Bis-C 16-20 Iso alkoxy TMhDl/PeG - 1.0-3.0% Polyurethane
90 Copolymer
Rheoluxe PeG /PPG -450/50 0.5 -5.0% Polyether
8015 Trimethylolpropane Dodecyl ether Polyol
ii ) Hectorite: It is a unique swelling clay with several advantages. It has
lower iron content, is lighter in colour, has higher swelling capacity,
greater gel strength, platelet-shaped, and has a large surface area.
Hercorite is able to from strong, stable viscous gels. It is a very effective
thickener of water due to which it forms the basis as rheological
additives in cosmetics.
iii ) Bentone Hydrophillic Clays: Bentone MA and EW rheological
additives provide thixotropy to the aqueous phase. They form gels by
producing an open, 3-D network of the individual clay platelets. They are
stable across the range pH 6-11 and offer good tolerance to electrolytes.
Bentone LT forms a similar network, but is strengthened by the presence
of a special cellulose, greatly enhancing stability and thickening
characteristics. It is stable across a broader range, pH 3-11 , and is also
the least electrolyte-sensitive product.
-
2 ) Non Aqueous Phase Additives
i ) Bentone Organophilic Clays: Hectorite is reacted with special
vegetable quaternary ammonium salts to produce organoclays, which are
able to thicken and gel organic liquids. The correct choice of bentone
additive is determined by the polarity of the system to be thickened .
Additives Applications
'
Bentone 27 V Intermediate to high - polarity organic systems ( esters and
triglycerides ); for nail lacquers , skin care , antiperspirants, and
lip products .
Bentone 38 V Intermediate to low - polarity organic systems ( volatile silicones
and mineral oil ); for antiperspirants, creams, lotions, eye
products , and suntan products .
Bentone additives need to be efficiently dispersed using high -shear
equipment and then to be activated with the optimum level of propylene
carbonate ( a chemical activator ). Bentone organoclays form thixotropic
gels by developing hydrogen bond bridges between the edges of adjacent
platelets.
26 Cosmetic Science
ii) Bentone Gel: These additives are optimally dispersed and activated pre-
dispersions. These do not require high -shear dispersion and polar
activation. These are easy to handle and use; and can be added at any
appropriate and convenient stage in manufacture.
A wide range of gels made from various cosmetic oils, esters and
solvents are available. The use of Bentone Gel enables to achieve
maximum efficiency from the organoclay without the need for careful
shearing and activation.
iii ) Thixcin R Rheological Additive: It is the product to use for highest
degree of thixotropy in aliphatic liquids. In addition to its effective
rheological properties, it gives water repellency, stabilises emulsions ,
and acts as a stiffening agent in lipsticks and ointments.
It can also be used as a dry binder in pressed power systems ( where high -
temperature resistance is needed ). Thixcin R ( castor oil derivative )
requires temperature-controlled activation within the range 55-60°C
( 130- 140°F) and high-shear mixing to develop its full structure.
2.3.2. Applications
Rheology modifiers are used in:
1) Stick Products ( Lipstick and Antiperspirant )
i ) To maintain homogeneity in molten and setting stages
ii ) To increase high-temperature integrity
iii ) To eliminate oil migration
iv) To reduce creasing around lips and eyes
2) Mascara
i ) To improve film-build
ii ) To increase water-resistance
iii ) To eliminate oil migration
3) Emulsions
i) To elevate drop-point temperature of water-in-oil creams
ii ) To eliminate syneresis
iii ) To improve emulsion stability
iv ) To enable cold-process emulsification
v) To create novel viscosity effects
4 ) UV Sunscreen
i ) To eliminate ultrafine titanium dioxide skin -whitening problems
ii ) To enhance Sun Protection Factor (SPF)
iii ) To pptimise use of sunscreen actives
iv) To reduce separation and settlement
5) Antiperspirant Aerosols
i) To uniformly distribute the active ingredients
ii) To make skin feel soft and dry
iii ) To reduce separation and settlement
2.4 . HUMECTANTS
Hydrating substances are used in cosmetic products to retard moisture loss and
increase the moisture content in skin that is in contact with the products. Target
body area for treatment with humectants is dry skin . Hydration plays an
important role in maintaining the metabolism, enzyme activity, mechanical
properties, appearance, and barrier function of skin.
The special blend of humectants found in the stratum corneum is called as
Natural Moisturising Factor ( NMF ) . The NMF is formed from the protein
filaggrin: mutation in filaggrin gene been identified as the major predisposing
factor for atopic eczema. The water binding capacity of sodium salt of lactic acid
and 2-Pyrrolidone-5-Carboxylic Acid ( PCA ) is higher than that of glycerine and
sorbitol. The humectant solutions show that the water held by corneum decrease
in following order: sodium PCA > sodium lactate > glycerine > sorbitol.
Properties of an Ideal Humectant

1 ) It should have a high moisturise absorption over a wide range of humidities.
2 ) It should have a consistent moisture content even with changing humidity.
3) It should be non-toxic and safe to use for cosmetics.
4 ) It should have low odour and low colour.
5 ) It should have low viscosity to make compounding easier .
6 ) It should be non -reactive with other cosmetic ingredients.
7 ) It should have a low cost and be readily available.
1 ) Glycerine: It is the most common humectant . It is a molecule with 3 -OH
groups. It is an odourless, clear liquid that can be derived from natural
sources. It is also manufactured as a bi -product of chemical reactions with
fats and oils. It can also be synthesised from petroleum sources. Glycerine is
the most versatile humectant in cosmetics. Its major disadvantage is that at
high levels is can feel sticky.
2 ) Propylene Glycol: It is non-toxic, has low odour, low viscosity, and
compatible with many ingredients. It does not absorb quite as much water as
glycerine. It also does not have the stickiness problem of glycerine and is less
expensive. Propylene glycol is similar to glycerine in chemical
structure having 3 C-atoms. The main difference is that it only contains 2
-OH groups. The major disadvantage is that it is synthetically produced
from petroleum processing.
3) Sorbitol: It is a 6-C sugar that has 6 -OH groups. It can be derived from
glucose. It is more hygroscopic than glycerine and does not suffer from the
stickiness problem. However, it is more expensive which is why it is not
used as extensively as glycerine or propylene glycol.
4 ) Butylene Glycol: It is a clear, low viscosity liquid that works well as a
humectant. It is a 4-C molecule that contains 2 -OH groups. It is similar in
humectancy to propylene glycol and makes a good substitute. It is also a
more effective solubiliser than both glycerine and propylene glycol .
28 Cosmetic Science
5) PEG: With an average molecular weight of 200-2000, PEGs are the ones
that exhibit useful humectancy. When formulating, higher the PEG molecular
weight, the less water soluble it will be.
6) Sodium PCA: It is found naturally in human skin so is often included as part of
the NMF. It is a highly effective humectant and can bind water 1.5 times better
than glycerine. As humectant, it is one of the best performing ingredients.
However, due to its relatively higher cost, it has limited application.
2.4.2. Applications
1 ) The prime functionality of a humectant is to form hydrogen bonds with
molecules of water.
2 ) Humectants are considered an important ingredient for a dry, dehydrated skin.
3) They are added due to the ability to attract water like a magnet, chemically
binding water to them.
2.5 . EMOLLIENTS
The word emollient is derived from a Latin verb mollire. meaning to soften .
Thus, emollient refers to materials that soften the skin.
In the cosmetic formulating world , emollients are ingredients incorporated into
products to improve the feel of skin. Emollients are also sometimes known as
moisturizers. These are moisturising treatments applied directly to the skin to
smooth and hydrate it. They cover skin with a protective film to trap in moisture.
An emollient is a humectant , a lubricant , and an occluder. Occlusion puts a layer
of oil on the skin’s surface, slowing down water loss. A humectant enhances the
surface of the skin’s capacity to hold water .
2.5. 1. Classification
1 ) Medicated Emollients: Some emollients contain specially medicated
formulas that can be used to treat the following skin conditions:
i ) Eczema: It is a long-term ( chronic ) skin condition that causes the skin to
become red, dry, itchy and cracked.
ii) Psoriasis: It is a chronic non-infectious skin condition that causes red,
flaky patches of skin.
2 ) Soap Substitutes: Soaps, shampoos, and shower gels can remove the skin’s
surface layer of natural oils. This can make the skin dry and can further
aggravate long-term (chronic ) skin conditions, such as eczema. Soap
substitutes, such as aqueous cream or emulsifying ointment , can be used for
hand washing and bathing. Aqueous cream can also be used as a substitute
for shaving foam.
3) Emollient Bath Additives: These can be added to a lukewarm bath to help
prevent the loss of moisture from skin. Some bath oils include an antiseptic
which can help prevent infection. However, these products should only be
used occasionally unless the infection is recurrent or widespread.
4) Emollient Creams: These are easy to spread , absorb easily into the skin and
are good for use during the daytime. They can be used on weeping eczema.
5 ) Emollient Ointments: These are most suitable for very dry, thick skin and
are not suitable for use on weeping eczema.
2.5.2. Applications
1 ) Emollients are used in eczema and psoriasis.
2) If used from birth, they provide a feasible, safe, and effective approach for
atopic dermatitis prevention.
3) Emollient soap substitutes do not foam but clean the hands and skin. They
can be applied before washing or in the water.
4 ) Aqueous creams or emulsifying ointments are good alternatives for hand and
bath soaps, as they do not strip the skin of its surface layer. Aqueous creams
can be used instead of shaving foam.
5 ) For children who are at risk of developing infected eczema, bath oils with an
antiseptic may offer protection , but these should be used occasionally.
6) Emollient bath additives or bath oils are added to bathwater to help prevent
the loss of moisture from the skin.
2.6. PRESERVATIVES
Preservatives are added to the formulation to prevent the microbial growth and
subsequent degradation of the preparation.
Properties of an Ideal Preservative

1 ) It should be compatible with the formulation.
2) It should have an extent of solubility.
3) It should be stable.
4) It should give sustained antimicrobial effect.
5) It should be colourless and odourless.
6 ) It should be non-toxic, non-irritant , and non -allergic.
1 ) Acids and Acid Derivatives
i ) Benzoic acid, ii ) Formic acid,
iii ) Vanillic acid , iv ) Sorbic acid and salts,
v ) Propionic acid and salts, and vi ) Dehydroacetic acid.
2) Alcohols
i ) Ethyl alcohol, ii ) Chlorobutanol , and iii ) Phenoxy-2-ethanol .
3) Aldehydes
i ) Cinnamic aldehyde, ii) Formaldehyde, and iii ) Glutaraldehyde.
4) Formaldehyde Donors
i) Hexamethylenetetramine, and
ii) Mono-(and di -) methyloldimethyl hydantoin.
30 Cosmetic Science
5 ) Phenolics
i ) Phenol, ii ) Cresol,
iii ) Chlorothymol , and iv ) o-Phenylphenol.
6) Quaternaries
i ) Chlorhexidine and salts, ii ) Benzethonium chloride, and
iii ) Benzalkonium chloride.
7 ) Mercurials
i ) Thiomersol , ii ) Nitromersol ,
iii ) Phenyl mercuric acetate, and iv ) Sodium ethylmercurithiosalicylate.
8) Esters
i ) Methyl /7-hydroxy benzoate, ii) Ethyl /7-hydroxy benzoate,
iii ) Propyl /7-hydroxy benzoate, iv ) Butyl /7-hydroxy benzoate
9) Miscellaneous
i ) 6-Acetoxy-2, 4-dimethyl-m-dioxane, and
ii) 2,4,4-‘Trichloro-2 ' -hydroxy -diphenylether.
2.6.2. Applications
1 ) Benzoic Acid: It is used in the form of sodium or potassium salts of benzoic
acid for preserving foodstuffs, drugs and cosmetics. It is generally used in the
concentration of 0.1 % w/v and remains non -toxic until used in large quantity.
2) Parahvdroxy Benzoates: These are the derivatives of benzoic acid, particularly,
the esters of a /7-hydroxy benzoic acid . They are widely used as preservatives in
syrups and pharmaceutical preparations. Most commonly used preservatives in
pharmaceutical industries are methyl , ethyl and propyl parabens.
3) Salicylic Acid and Salicylates: Salicylic acid possesses some antiseptic
properties. In Whitfield Ointment , salicylic acid is often combined with
benzoic acid.
4 ) Phenol ( Carbolic Acid ): In the concentration of 0.5% w/v phenol acts as a
bactericide in multi-dose injections, gargles and mouth washes. In ear drops
and oily injections, it is used in 6.4% w/v concentration.
-
5 ) Parachloro Metaxylenol: In case of cuts and wounds, parachloro
metaxylenol is used as an antiseptic .
-
6 ) Dichlorophene: It is added as an ingredient in athlete foot preparations and
hair lotions.
2.7. SUMMARY
The details given in the chapter can be summarised as follows:
1 ) According to IPEC, “Excipients are products having slight or no action and intended
to add in formulation to make it more effective”.
2) The excipients must not interfere with: dosage form, drug release, stability, and
acceptability.
3) Surface active agents or surfactants are the molecules which remain active at the
surface.
Cosmetic Excipients ( Chapter 2 ) 31
-
4 ) Surfactants used in cosmetics should be non - irritating, non toxic, colourless,
highly stable, and have no unpleasant odour .
5 ) Surfactants are divided into: Anionic Surfactants, Cationic Surfactants, Amphoteric
Surfactants and Non-ionic Surfactants
6 ) Rheology is the science or study of how things flow.
7 ) The special blend of humectants found in the stratum corneum is called as Natural
Moisturising Factor ( NMF), which is formed from the protein filaggrin .
8) The word emollient is derived from a Latin verb mollire , meaning to soften. Thus,
emollient refers to materials that soften the skin .
9) Preservatives are added to the formulation to prevent the microbial growth and
subsequent degradation of the preparation.
2.8 . EXERCISE
2.8. 1 . Very Short Answer Type Questions
1) Define the term cosmetic excipients.
2 ) What are rheology modifiers?
3) What are the properties of an ideal humectant ?
4) What are preservatives?
2.8. 2. Short Answer Type Questions

1) Write down the applications of rheology modifiers?
2) Explain humectants with its classification.
3) Write a short note on emollients.
4) What are the ideal properties of preservatives?
5) Write down the classification of preservatives.
2.8.3. Long Answer Type Question

1 ) Give a note on surfactants and its classifications.
PRINCIPLES OF FORMULATION AND BUILDING
BLOCKS OF SKIN CARE PRODUCTS
Points to be covered in this topic

_;; I SKIN CARE PRODUCTS I
::: I FACE WASH I
::: I MOISTURIZING CREAM I
:: I COLD CREAM I
:: I VANISHING CREAM I
:: IADVANTAGESANDDISADVANTAGES OFCREAM I
...
.... ANTIPERSPANTSAND DEODORANTS
: IACTIVE INGREDIENTS I
....
.... MECHANISM OF ACTION
ISKIN CARE PRODUCTS I
• A variety of skin care products exist in
n1arket.
• They fulfil a variety of functions by either
acting directly on the skin (moisturizers)
or being a cosmetically elegant vehicle for
the delivery of specific active ingredients
(sunscreens or anti-acne medicaments).
• These skin care products are categorized into three functional groups
► DRUGS: To prevent diseases by altering the structure and fu nction of
the body.
, COSMETICS: To beautify and improve the skin.
, COSMECEUTICALS: An intermediate classification for cosmetic products
that may enhance the function of the skin.
•!• SKIN CARE PRODUCTS ARE MADE AS PER BELOW SKIN

TYPES
• Normal Skin 17m :
\ caffein e'
• Dry Skin ~ ....,d~J
/ coffe~
• Oily Skin -= face I
wash ' - ,,~
......-"'
,.~
• Combination Skin I -......._ ;
~
_ ..,
• Sensitive Skin
ll--·· -. --- ~ ___ _
_,.....
IFACE WASH I
• Face wash is a facial care cosmetic used to cleanse the skin
• Helps improve skin complexion
• Helps Rejuvenates the skin
• Helps controls excessive oil
• Helps nourish the skin to make it bright and Radiant
► FORMULATION OF HERBAL FACE WASH GEL
INGREDIENTS QUANTITY IN%
Ethanolic extract of lern on 1
Ethanolic extract of nee1n 1
Ethanolic extract of aloe vera 1
Ethanolic extract of curcun1a longa 1
Carbopol 940 2
Methyl paraben 0.1
Triethanolamine 2
Propylene glycol 2
Sodium lauryl sulphate 2
Distilled water q.s.
► PROPERTIES
✓ Ethanolic extract of lemon- anti bacterial and anti oxidant property.
✓ Ethanolic extract of neem - kills acne causing bacteria.
✓ Ethanolic extract of aloe vera - coolant, soothing and moisturizer.
✓ Ethanolic extract of curcurma longa- antiseptic, anti bacterial, anti
inflammatory.
✓ Carbopol 940- gelling agent, viscosity enhancer, suspension agent.
✓ Methyl paraben- antifungal agent and preservative.
✓ Propyl paraben- antifungal and preservative.
✓ Triethanolamine- neutralizer, ph balancer.
✓ Propylene glycoJ.. hurnectants, vaporize•~ solvent.
✓ Sodium lauryl sulphate- foaming agent.
► PREPARATION
• A little quantity of water was added with preservative propylene
glycol and sodium lauryl sulphate were dissolved well
• To the above solution Carbopol 940 was added slowly and stirred well
until a gel like dispersion was obtained
• To this the extract was added one by one to get a complete gel like
consistency.
• Then triethanolamine was added finally to the mixture.
► EVALUATION OF FACE WASH GEL
• Color
• Odour
• Consistency
• Viscosity
• Spreadability
• Washability
• Foamabili ty
• Grittiness
IMOISTURIZING CREAM I
• When water is lost from stratum cor neum more rapidly than it is
received from lower layers of skin the skin becomes dehydrated.
• The dehydrated skin loses it's flexibility and appears rough.
• Creams which restore water or n1oisture & plasticizes the stratum
corneum, provides it's flexibility and makes it soft.
• These types of cream are known as moisturizing cream.
I • I
'''*'
skln h'Uits
0 -··-·
~
-
~-~
--~-· ~ ---
·- .... - .......
·~ --a (j.a,,, ; .; •
I
INGREDIENTS QUANTITY IN%
Stearic acid 4%
Mineral oil 8%
Lanolin 1%
Glyceryl monostearate 3%
lsopropyl myristate 2%
Glycerine
----------- 4%
Propylene glycol 4%
Triethanolamine 0.2%
Water 100%
Perfume and preservative qs
-----
► PREPARATION
• Aqueous phase along with propylene glycol, isopropyl myristate,
triethanolamine, glycerin and water heated at same temperature as oil
phase.
• Both the phases were mixed slowly with continuous stirring to form
the homogenous dispersion.
• Perfume was added when the temperature downs at 35 °C.
Preservatives added in the water phase before mixing.
•!• ADVANTAGES
• Moisturizing reduces the chances of skin problems.
• Moisturizing can reduce the appearance of other blemishes.
• Moisturizing helps your skin stay young.
• Moisturizing fights wrinkles.
• It's the perfect end to a hot shower.
• Non-irritating when applied to the skin.
• Easily water washable.
• Less greasy compared to oint1nent.
• Easy to spread on the skin's surface.
•!• DISADVANTAGES
• Stability is not as good as ointment.
• They are less hydrophobic than other semisolid preparation, so risk
of conta1nination is high than the others.
• Skin irritation of contact dermatitis may occur due to the drug and/
excipients.
• Poor permeability of some drugs through the skin Possibility of
allergic reactions.
• Can be used only for drugs which require very small plasma
concentration for action.
ICOLD CREAM I
• It isan emulsion of water in oil (w/o) type.
• Used as moisturizer, makeup remover and cleanser.
• The main principle of cold cream involves slow evaporation of water
phase which leads to cooling sensation.
• Borax, beeswax are used as an emulsifying agent.
mo S.t1_;r '.-..:r.:)
O'
Gulc1bari ~.e. . _. --r..--l
I I Al
,
~~,
___
·-~ =
COLD CR L.\M
COlD CR[AM
~-
COid cream
Sia 11 C
~
./ 1
__A/
:, , r)f '. r-·:,
Qrorno
CllQQ1c
__ .....--
..... - :-0
► IDEAL PROPERTIES OF COLD CREAM

• Should have optimum pH (4.6-6 ).
• Consistency should be optimum
• Should not be sticky
• Should be attractive in appearance
• Penetration through epidermis of skin should be desirable.
• Must be non-irritant and non-inflammatory.
• Should give cooling effects.
► FORMULATION OF COLD CREAM
INGREDIENTS QUANTITY CATEGORY
(%W/W)
OIL PHASE
Mineral oil 45.0 Used as solvent and emollient
Beeswax 16 Thickening agent and emulsifier
-~
Aqueous phase !
Borax 1 Emulsifier and provide whiteness
Water 100
Preservative Q.S. Antimicrobial
Perfume I Q.S. Fragrance
•!• PROCEDJJRE
• Heat the mineral oil and beeswax in a jacketed vessel at 75°C and
maintain heat.
• In another container, dissolve borax and preservative in water and
heat to 75°C (Aqueous phase).
• Slowly add this aqueous phase to the mineral oil-beeswax heated oily
phase.
• Cool to 3 5 °C and add perfume.
► USES
• Typically used to cleanse the face off makeup
• Heavily moisturises dry skin.
• Can also be used as a balm for dry cracked lips.
• It can also be used as a shaving cream alternative for men.
lvANISHINGCREAM I
• Vanishing cream gets the name from the fact that it leaves no trace when
rubbed into the skin.
• These are oil in water emulsions that contains large percentages of
water and stearic acid or other oleaginous components.
• After application, the continuous phase evaporates, leaving behind a thin
residue film of the stearic acid. ,C i-
► IDEAL PROPERTIES OF VANISHING CREAM
• High melting point
• Pure whiteness
• Very little odor and low iodine number
• Rubbed easily on the skin
► FORMULATION OF VANISHING CREAM
INGREDIENSTS QUANTITY CATEGORY

(%W/W)
OIL PHASE
Stearic acid, triple 15.0%
pressed
Cetyl alcohol 0.50% Emollient, water absorptive and
emulsifying properties
· Isopropyl myristate 3.00% Non-greasy emollient
AQUEOUS PHASE
Sodium hydroxide O.lfl .%
l
Alkali - r ~,.~_.
Potassium hydroxide 0.50% Alkali

Glycerol .,.~ -·- ..,, ~,,"~·-"/
5,0% Humectant
Water 75.82 o/o Vehicle
Perfume Q.S. Fragfrance
~,J.P...reservative "
Q. s. Anti 1nicrobial
► PROCEDURE
• Dissolve the sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide in water,
add glycerol and preservative and heat to 80°C.
• In another vessel, melt the stearic acid, cetyl alcohol and isopropyl
myristate (oily phase) and beat to 75°C.
• Add the alkali solution to the melted oily phase with good agitation.
• When the mixture has cooled to about 45°C, add the perfume and
continue slow mixing until cool.
• Cover and let it stand overnight.
• Remix briefly next day before packaging.
IADVANTAGESOFCREAM I
• Creams are more acceptable to the patients because they are less greasy
and are easier to apply.
• They interfere less with skin functions.
• 0/w type of creams (superior to w/o type) can be rubbed onto the skin
more readily and are easily removed by washing. W/o can be spread
more evenly.
• 0 / w type of cream are less likely to soil clothes.
• Evaporation of water from o/w type of cream causes a cooling
sensation.
IDISADVANTAGES OF CREAM I
• Since it is a semisolid preparation and contains oil in large amounts,
some of which are inedible, hence crea1ns are not used for internal use.
• Basically creams are meant for application onto the skin
• The aqueous phase is prone to the growth of moulds and bacteria hence
preservatives should be used.
• Sometimes rancidification of oils take place.
► EVAWATION OFCREAM
• Detertnination of Ph
• Pri1nary skin it,·itation test
• Visual appearance
• Viscosity in cps v/s shear rate in sec-1. 5.
• Spreadability
• Stability studies
• Reheological studies
• Ther1nal behavior
• Saponification value
• Acid value
IANTIPERSPANTSAND DEODORANTS I
► DEODORANTS
• A deodorant is a substance applied to the body to prevent body odor
caused by the bacterial breakdown of perspiration in armpits, feet,
'
and other areas of the body.

• A subgroup of deodorants, antiperspirants, affect odor as well as
prevent sweating by affecting sweat glands.
► ANTIPERSPIRANTS
• Antiperspirants are typically applied to the under arms, while
deodorants may also be used on feet and other areas in the form of I
body sprays.
• In the United States, the food and drug administration classifies and
1
regulates most deodorants as cosmetics but classifies antiperspirants
as over-the-counter drugs.
•:• PROPERTIES
• It should not be irritant to the skin.
• It should not deteriorate clothing.
• It should be safe and nontoxic.
• Easy to use and adhere well on skin.
• Mask body odor with perfume.
• Absorb perspiration or inhibit the activity of gram+ ve bacteria, which
cause body 1nalodour.
•:• COMPONENTS OF SWEATS
• Ethnicity: hypotonic liquid form of blood
plasma.
...
• Acidic substance which is the degree of .._ _..,._ _...
acidity is between 4 and 6.
• It consists 1nainly of 99% water and some
mineral salts, which are sodium chloride,
potassium, a nd bicarbonate.
• It also contains inorganic compounds such as lactic acid, urea, and
ammonia which secreted by sweat glands.
✓ ODOR
• Numerous odors substances are responsible:
• Decomposition of the proteins
\ 1 f
• Lower fatty a cids, steroids and
lactones(have no smell, but they fix the
odor combined action offood
• Physical and psychologica l conditions
✓
• Individual property (dog detection)
Method to control auxiliary odor
1uk4
-
Ft
• Reduce apocrine sweating

• Remove the secretions
• Impede bacteria l growth
• Absorb body odor
IACTIVE INGREDIENTS I
• Aluminum chlorhydrate
• Alun1inun1 chloride
• Basic aluminum bromide
• Basic aluminum nitrate
• Basic aluminum iodide
• Magnesium aluminum chloride
► TYPES OF ANTIPERSPIRANT
• Aerosol
• Sticks
• Cream
1. AEROSOL
• A substance enclosed under pressure and able to be released as a fine
spray, typically by means of a propellant gas.
✓ FORMULATION
• An aerosol formulation consists of two components: the product
concentrate and the propellant.
• The product concentrate is the active drug combined with additional
ingredients or co-solvents required to make a stable and efficacious
product.
• The concentrate can be a solution, suspension, emulsion, semisolid,
or powder.
L
,,·.
II ri •.•
2. STICKS
• A sticks is a solid delivery vehicle cast in an elongated form.
• By rubbing a sticks onto a skin a variety of cosmetics ingredients can
be delivered such as fragrances, coloring agent, and emollients.
✓ ACTIVE INGREDIENT OF DRY ANTIPERSIPIRANTS STICKS
- - - -- -
; POWDER PHASE INGREDIENTS LIQUID PHASE INGREDIENTGS
Avicel Volatile silicon
I
Italian talc Isopropylan 33

L__ - -
: Ultra fine A1Cl2 Perfume
I
- -
Dry-Flo starch
I
Zn-Stearate
I
•!• CREAM
• A substance applied to the body to suppress or mask the odor of
perspiration or other body odors.
✓ ACTIVE INGREDIENT OF CREAM
• lsopropyl myristate
• Benton 38
• Ethyl alcohol
• Zirconium complex
• Silicon
• Perfume
❖ AEROSOLDEODORANJS
• A system of colloidal particles dispersed in a gas; smoke or fog or
containing a liquid or gas under pressure for dispensing as a spray or
foam: a deodorant available in aerosol cans.
IMECHANISM OF ACTION I
• Most antiperspirants contain ingredients called a luminum sa lts.
• The 1nain way in which they work is to dissolve in sweat and create a thin
coating of gel to cover over the sweat glands.
• This coating reduces the amount of sweat released onto the surface of
the skin for a number of hours after the antiperspirant is applied.
PRINCIPLES OF FORMULATION AND BUILDING
I! . BLOCKS OF HAIR CARE AND ORAL CARE
PRODUCTS "
Points to be covered in this topic

;: IHAIR CARE PRODUCTS I
;: ICONDITIONING SHAMPOO I
: : IHAIR CONDITIONER I
:IANTI-DANDRUFF SHAMPOO I
....
.... HAIR OILS
.... CHEMISTRY AND FORMULATION OF PARA-

r
PHYLENE DIAMINE BASED HAIR DYE
... TOOTH PASTE FOR BLEEDING GUM , SENSITIVE

...
TEETH
....
.... TEETH WHITENING
-
: MOUTHWASH I
IHAIR CARE PRODUCTS I
• Hair care is an overall term for hygiene and
cosmetology involving the hair which grows from
the human scalp, and to a lesser extent facial, pubic
and other body hair.
• Hair n1ay be colored, trimmed, shaved, plucked or
otherwise removed with treatments such as waxing,
....
.__ .,
sugaring and threading.
• Hair care services are offered in salons, barbershops and day spas, and
products are available commercially for home use.
• Laser hair removal and electrolysis are also available, though these are
provided by licensed professionals in medical offices or speciality spas.
l sHAMPoo I
• A shampoo is a preparation of a surfactant (i.e. surface active material) in
a suitable form - liquid, solid or powder - which when used under the
specified conditions will remove surface grease, dirt, and skin debris
from the hair shaft and scalp without adversely affecting the user
, PROPERTIES OF A SHAMPOO
• It should produce a good amount of foam.
• It should be easily removed on rinsing with water.
• It should impart a pleasant fragrance to the hair.
• It should not cause any side effects/ irritation to the skin or eye.
• It should effectively or completely remove dust or soil.
• It should not make the hand rough.
, TYPES OF SHAMPOO
• Powder shatnpoo
• Liquid shatnpoo
• Lotion shan1poo
• Crean1 sha1npoo
• Conditioning Sha1npoo
• Anti- dandruff Shampoo
• Baby Shampoo
, ACTIVE INGREDIENTS OF SHAMPOO
•:• SURFACTANTS
✓ Anionic Surfactants: The hydrophilic portion carries a negative charge
which result in superior foaming & cleaning. e.g. Laurie acid, stearic acid.
✓ Non-ionic Surfacta nts: Non-ionic Surfactant have good cleansing
properties but do not have sufficient foaming power. e.g. Sorbitol este rs
(TWEENS), Ethoxylated fatty alcohols, Laurie monoethanolamide.
✓ Amphoteric Surfacta nt: Amphoteric surfactants carry positive and
negative charge they are 1nainly used as secondary surfactant & good
hair conditioners. e.g. 3-amino acid derivatives, Asparagine derivatives.
✓ Conditioning agent s: They are intended to improve manageability, feel
& lusture of hair. e.g. Lanolin, Mineral oil, Polypeptides, Egg derivatives,
Herbal extracts
✓ Viscosity modifier: They are used to improve the thickness of
compounds.
(a) Electrolytes: Ammonium chloride, Sodium chloride I
I i
(b)Natural gums: Gum Tragacanth, Gum karaya,Alginates
(c) Cellulose derivatives: Hydroxyethyl cellulose, Hydroxypropyl
cellulose
( d)Carboxyvinyl polymers Polymer of acrylic acid cross-linked with
polyfunctional agent
✓ Opacifying & Clarifying agents: Stearyl alcohol, Propylene glycol,
Phosphates, Finely dispersed zinc oxide Milky emulsions of vinyl
poly1ners.
✓ Preservatives: Bacterial growth in shampoo can lead to breakdown of
detergent i.e. resulting in discoloration of product hence preservative
are important in product. e.g. Formaldehyde, Esters of para hyd roxy
benzoic acid
✓ Perfumes:
• Fragrance must be soluble in shampoo
• It must be compatible with shampoo i.e. not affect the viscosity &
stability. e.g. Herbal, fruity & floral fragrance.
, PROCEDURE FOR PREPARATION OF SHAMPOO
• Measure the quantity of coconut oil, olive oil, castor oil & take it in a
round bottom flask
• Potassium hydroxide dissolved in 3/4th quantity of water was added to
it, heat it in a water bath for 70-80°C with constant shaking for 1hr.
• Take remaining quantity of water and add sodium hexamethyl
cellulose, glycerine, perfume & other ingredients.
• Then mix both the solution to form a uniform shampoo.
ICONDITIONING SHAMPOO I
• Conditioning molecules contained in shampoos combine the cleansing
action with the function to impart manageability, gloss and antistatic
properties of hair.
•!• FORMULA
,._ .
Stearyl dimethyl benzyl 5.5%
ammonium chloride
l Ethylene glycol monostearate 2%
l
' Cetyl alcohol 2.5%
I
1 Water Upto 100%

!color, perfume and preservative Q.S
- -
IHAIR CONDITIONER I
• The primary purpose of a hair conditioner is to
reduce the 1nagnitude of the forces associated ~
- I
with combing or brushing of the hair.

, BENEFITS OF HAIR CONDITIONER;
• It causes the hair to feel softer and more moisturized.
• It reduce flyaway hair
• It makes the hair more manageable and easier to comb
• It increase in hair shine
•!• CATIONIC SURFACTANTS

• Quaternary ammonium compounds (quats) are the most widely used
eg. Stearalkonium chloride.
• Positive charge on the bind to negative sites on the hair surface
forming hydrophobic coating that render the hair softer and easier to
comb and reduce static charge
•!• LIPOPHILIC CONDITIONERS

• Fatty acohol sush as cetyl and stearyl alcohols are added to boost the
conditioning effects of the quaternary compounds.
• Other lipids found in conditioners include glycol distearate,
triglycerides, fatty esters, waxes of triglycerides, liquid paraffin, etc.
•!• POLYMERS
• Quaternized hydroxyl ethylcellulose polymer and copolymer of vinyl
pyrrolidone improved wet combing and reduced static charge.
•!• SILICONS
• The most widely used silicones is dimethicone.
• Some silicones are soluble in water and therefore may not be as
effective in rinse-off products it forms a hydrophobic film that render
the hair smooth, soft without greasiness.
IANTI - DANDRUFF SHAMPOO I
• Dandruff or scurf is the dry fonn of seborrhea ca pi tis as seborrhea sicca
in which the epidennis is shed in dry fla ky scales.
• Generally due to:
1. Dry skin.
2. Irritated, oily skin (seborrheic dermatitis): one of the most frequent
causes of dandruff, is marked by red, greasy skin covered with flaky
white or yellow scales.
3. Not shampooing often enough. If you don't regularly wash your hair,
oils and skin cells from your scalp can build up, causing dandruff.
4 . Psoriasis this skin disorder causes an accumulation of dead skin cells
that form thick, silvery scales.
5. A yeast-like fungus (malassezia). Malassezia lives on the scalps of
most healthy adults without causing problems. But sometimes it grows
out of control, feeding on the oils secreted by your hair follicles.
Selenium sulphide === 2.5 %

Bentonite 5%
Sodiumlauryl sulphate 35%
Water Upto 100
Color, perfume, preservative Q.S.
D
Ant i
Da n1.
Sh .t r: tiair
Serum
·1t1 ,.s.1 1
:3ncn.,11
► EVALUATION PARAMETER OF SHAMPOO
•!• DETERMINATION OF PERCENT OF SOLID CONTENTS
• A clean dry evaporating dish was weighed and added 4g of shampoo to
it.
• Evaporating dish with the shampoo was weighed.
• The exact weight of shampoo was calculated & the evaporating dish
with the shampoo was placed on a hot plate until the liqu id portion
evaporates.
• The weight of shampoo only (solids) after drying was calculated.
•!• DETERMINATION OF pH
• The pH of 10% shampoo solution in distilled water was determined
at room temperature using a digital pH meter.
•!• DETERMINATION OF VISCOSITY

• It is determined using Brookfield viscometer.
• 100ml of shampoo is taken in a beaker & spindle is dipped in it for
about 5 minutes and then reading is taken.
•!• SKIN IRRITATION TEST

• Patch test technique is used here.
• A set of 6 rabbits were used for testing each material.
• The shampoo preparations are diluted between concentrations of 8-
10% .
• Patches containing the shampoo preparations were applied & then
removed, the skin sites were noted for any changes on the surface of
skin like edema, erythenla forrnation.
• These products are then classified as mild irritant, moderate &
severe.
•:• CLEANING ACTION
• 5g of wool yarn were placed in grease, after that it was placed in 200ml
of water containing lg of shampoo in a flask
• Teinperature was maintained at 35°C.
• The flask was shaked for 4 minutes at the rate of 50 times a minute
•:• EYEIRRITATION TEST

• About 1 % shampoo solution was dripped into the eyes of 6 rats with
their eyes held open with the clips at the lid.
• The progressive damage to the rabbit's eyes was recorded at specific
intervals over an average period of 4 seconds.
• Reaction to the irritants can include swelling of the eyelid,
inflammation of the iris, ulceration, hemorrhaging and blindness.
IHAIROILS I
• The hair oils are used for dressings a nd nourishing the hairs and grace to 1
appearance of hairs.
• This preparations is generally used to increase the growth of hair and
remains healthy.
• The hair oil should have the fallowing properties:
✓ They should give luste r to the hair.
✓ Retain them soft and flowing.
✓ Increase their growth.
✓ Keep the brain cool.
✓ Should not be sticky.

wow
.'.',Qt,;D
:. P.01
► FORMULATION HAIR TONICOIL
INGUEDIENTS QTY(%} ROLE
Aloe ven, pulp 4 Boosting scalp health

Tulsi 2 Anti - bacterial
Hibiscus 1 Control premature graying
Shikakai 2 Anti-dandruff
Coconut oil 25 Moisturize dry hair
Almond oil 60 Treat hair loss and strengthen hair
Metbi 5 Hair growth
Jasmine 1 Conditioning agent, provide good odour
► ALIERNATIVE HERBS
INGREDIENTS ALTERNATIVE
Tulsi basil
Hibiscus Amaranth leaves, amla, black tea, henna, rose maiy
Shikakai Fenugreek, rosemary, liquorice
Coconut oil Jojoba oil, argon oil, olive oil
Almond oil Grape seed oil , lemon grass oil
Jasmine Rose
► METHOD OF PREPARATION
All the dried and fresh herbs such as tulsi, hibiscus, shikakai , aloe vera
pulp and methi were weighed and grinded in the mixture and mixed in
60% of almond oil
The above content was boiled for 15min and was filtered through muslin
cloth
To the filtrate 2 So/o coconut oil was added make up the volume 100ml
Finally small amount of flavouring agent was added to the oil and it was
placed in amber coloured bottle.
► EVALUATION OF HAIR OIL

1. SENSITIVITY TEST
• The prepared herbal hair oil was applied on 1 cm skin of hand and
exposed to sunlight for 4-5 min.
2. ACIDVAWE
a) Preparation of 0.1 molar solution: Weighed 0.56 gm KOH pellets
dissolve in 100ml of distilled water and stirred continuously. The
prepared 0.1 molar KOH solution was filled in the burette.
b) Preparation of sample: 1 O ml oil was measured and dissolved in 50ml
of 1: 1 ethanol and ether mixture and shake it vigorously. Then 1ml of
phenophthalein solution was added and titrated with 0.1 molar KOH
solution.
3. SAPONIFICATION VALUE
10ml of ethanol : ether mixture (2:1) was added to the accurately

I
measured 1ml of oil , in 250 ml of conical flask.

I
'
' To this, 25ml of 0.5 N alcoholic KOH was added and kept undisturbed for
30min and flask was cooled.
This solution was titrated against O.SN HCL using phenolphthalein

indicator
....... - ~ C""I"'"" '-
Similarly, the blank t~tration was performed without taking oil

• Amount of KOH in 1ng used was calculated using formula,
• Saponification value = 56 .1 (B - S}N/W
• Where,
✓ B = volu1ne in 1111 of standard HCl required for the blank
✓ S = volurne in 1111 of standard HCI required for the sample
✓ N = nor111ality of standard HCI
✓ W = weight of the oil taken in gm for the test
4. pH TEST
• pH meter is used for the determination of pH of herbal oiJ.
5. VISCOSITY
• Ostwald's viscometer is used for the determination of viscosity.
6. SPECIFIC GRAVITY
• Specific gravity bottle was rinsed with distilled water, dried in hot air
oven for 15min, cooled, capped, weighed and was noted as "a".
• Now the same specific gravity bottle was filled with the sample,
capped and again weighed and noted as "b".
• Weight of the sample per ml was determined by subtracting the
weights (b-a).
CHEMISTRY AND FORMULATION OF PARA·PHYLENE
DIAMINE BASED HAIR DYE
► HAIRDYE
• Hair dye or hair color is a chemical tool which is 11 !1 ~~
-· '
used to change the color of a person's hair
• They are used to change the color of gray hair, a
,'l .m.~ -,,i
It,
,, J HA IR
~
sign of an older age.

• Now in current trend younger people use hair :JQ
COLOUR
.
SHAMPOO
' ~
,~
·ft_ ~
. ! ; : .~ .;
>:iJ;:: .
color as a trend. - ll 1:•• ··-
,,,•
- I • •'
► IDEAL PROPERTIES OF HAIR COLOR

• Not injure hair shaft
• Non-irritant & free from sensitization
• Not have systemic toxicity
• Color of dyed hair: stable to physical factors
• No effect of shampoos, brilliantines, setting lotions on the dyed hair.
• Stable in the formulation sold in market
• Color hair without reducing natural gloss Not change the texture of
hairs
► PARA-PHYLENE DIAMINE
• This derivative of aniline, aromatic amine, is a colourless solid when
pure but are partially oxidized and appear yellowish.
• Some misinformation has led to PPD being described as a black
mineral from the bank of the River Nile.
• This gave PPD an undeserved distinction as being natural.
• Paraphenylenediamine {PPD) is a chemical substance that is widely
used as a permanent hair dye.
• PPD is used in hair dye because it is a permanent dye that gives a
natural look, and the dyed hair can also be shampooed or penned
without losing its colour.
• It is a white crystalline powder
t . TEMPORARY HAIR COLOR
• Ten1porary hair color is available in various product for.m s including
rinses, sham poos, gels, sprays, foams.
• This type of hair color is typically used to give brighter, more vibrant
shades or colors such as orange or red, that may be difficult to achieve
with semi-permanent and permanent hair color.
• These colorants do not penetrate into cortex or medulla.
• As such the dye is easily removed with shampoo so known as
ten1porary hair color
•:• HAIR CRAYON __. __. _. . . . . ·r r
•~ - - ~...-.~"!,. ,_, ..
INGREDIENTS QTY "
Triethanolamine 70%
Glycerol monolaureate 5.5°/o
--
t.;QRI
GAR eR COll'
Gum tragacanth 2.5% Color HI~
naturals . ·:-:
Stearic acid 13.5% .. . v,3 -~
~ -
Beeswax 5%
~~-::~~ -
Carnauba wax 13.5% ltOVlt!SM( OKA.m
20(qc,741)
Ozokerite 8%
Color q.s.
•!• TEMPORARY COLOR IN SHAMPOO

INGRDIENTS QTY
Water
Polyquaternium - 10
~
--
-~
~
50.10 %
1.50%
-
Methyl paraben 0.15%
Propylene glycol 2%
Disodium coscamido propionate 15%
Lauramide DEA 2%
PEG-5 hydrogenated tallow amine 4%
Color 1%
2. SEMI-PERMANENT HAIR COLOR
• Differ forn1 color shampoo with respect to time
• Give stronger & more permanent coloration to hair
• So1ne colors are ren1oved in 4 -8 shampooings.
• Dyes used are: Nitropbenylenediamine,
Nitroaminopheols, Aminoantbraquinones.
• Mixture is prepared before preparing color shades.
• Should be studied on white wool or hair.
• Semi hair color has no Ammonia.
I
INGREDIENTS QTY
Basic dye Less than 1 %
Cetyl trimethyl amonium chloride - 30 4%
Oleth- 20 0.25%
Cetostearyl alcohol 3%
Glyceryl sterarate /PEG - 100 stearate 3%
Triethnolamine To adjust pH upto 8
Preservative q.s.
Perfume q.s.
Deionised water Upto 100%
3. PERMANENT HAIR COLOR

• All "permanent" hair color products and lighteners
contain both a developer, or oxidizing agent, and an
alkalizing ingredient as part of their ammonia or an
ammonia substitute.
• The purpose of this is to: -
✓ Raise the cuticle of the hair fiber so the tint can •
penetrate,
✓ Facilitate the formation of tints within the hair fiber,
✓ Bring about the lightening action of peroxide.
•> BASE FOR OXIDATION HAIR DYE
INGRDIENTS QTY
lsopropanol --
7.5% .
Oleicacid 22%
Coconut diethanolamide 10%
A1nmoniu1n 6.6%>
Deionised water q.s. to 100
4. NATURAL PERMANENT DYE

• Now a days, plant materials are used e.g. henna leaves Infusions,
decoctions of plant 1naterials are used.
• The paste of powder of henna leaves prepared in hot water.
• After cooling it is applied with stiff brush & allow to dry.
• Henna contains lawsone (2 - hydroxy- 1,4 - napthaquinone)
NATUR
.-.-- ~
. .
I
t
..
t
~
-.-:-=_
' - 'J
O(Oi,,,1(,1.1 '\J>":l,l.l U
~ GELCOLOUR
---·-
~
loRALCAREPRooucrs l
• Oral care products are the products that are used to cleanse the oral
cavity, freshen the breath, and maintain good oral hygiene.
ITOOTH PASTE I
• Toothpaste is a paste or gel dentrifrice used with a toothbrush as an
accessory to clean and maintain the aesthetics and health of the teeth.
► INGREDIENTS OF TOOTH PASTE

•!• ABRASIVE
• These are used to remove food debris and residual stains of the teeth
& to polish the teeth surface.
• Eg: Precipitated calcium carbonate, Dibasic calcium phosphate,
Tricalcium phosphate, Calcium pyrophosphate, Insoluble sodium
metaphosphate, Anhydrous dibasic calcium phosphate, Hydrated
alumina
•!• DETERGENTS & OTHER FOAMING MATERIALS

• These are used in toothpaste for their cleansing action These materials
lower surface tension, thereby promoting penetration of paste & helps
in removal of deposits & debris.
• Eg Sodium lauryl sulphate, Magnesium lauryl sulphate, Sodium lauryl
sarcosinate, Sodium lauryl sulphoacetate, Dioctyl -sodium
sulphosuccinate, Monoglycerides Sulphates Sulphonates
•:• HUMECTANTS
• Humectants in toothpastes are used to prevent their drying out
• They also impart some plasticity to toothpastes.
• Eg: Glycerin Propylene glycol Sorbitol solution
•!• BINDING AGENTS
• Solid & liquid phases of toothpaste tends to separate in the absence of
binding agents particularly during storage.
• Binding agents disperse, swell or absorb water to form viscous liquid
phases.
• Eg: Natural gun1s (Gum Arabic, Gum tragacanth) Cellulose derivatives
(Carboxy 1ned1ylcellulose, Sodium carboxymethylcellulose, Hydroxyethyl
cellulose) Starch ethers Synthetic resins
•!• SWEETENING & FLAVOURING AGENTS

• These are the most important ingredients in toothpaste as they have
great influence on the acceptance of the product.
• Eg: Saccharin sodium (0.05-0.3%) Chloroform Peppermint Spearmint
Coriander Caraway Anise Eucalyptus
•!• MINOR INGREDIENTS
• Titaniun1 dioxide
• pH regulators
• Cellulose ethers
• Carragheen
,
'
FORMULA
calcium carbonate 60g
Glycerine 20g
Tragacanth powder 2g
Sodium lauryl sulphate 2g
Saccharine 0.5g
Peppermint oil 0.S1nl
Methyl paraben lg
Propylparaben lg
Water 15ml
► PROCEDURE
• Take half the quantity of water, add tragacanth powder & heat it in a
water bath to get a gel.
• To the retnaining quantity of water, add glycerine, sodium lauryl
sulphate, preservative & mix it thoroughly to get a clear solution.
• Weigh the required quantity of saccharin and calcium carbonate ,
solution & mix it with the help of mortar and pestle.
• To this powder, add gum tragacanth & mix well.
• Add glycerine, preservative & sodium lauryl mixture to it and triturate
uniformly to get a paste.
• Finally add flavouring agent & triturate well.
• Transfer to a narrow mouthed plastic tube, seal & label.
, EVALUATION OF TOOTH PASTE

•!• DETERMINATION OF HARD & SHARP EDGED ABRASIVE PARTICLES
• The paste was extruded about 15 to 20cm length from collapsible tube
of each sample on a butter paper.
• Then all the samples were tested by pressing it along it's entire length
by a finger for the presence of hard & sharp edged a brasive particles.
❖ DETERMINATION OF SPREADABILITY
• About lg of each sample was weighed and placed at the centre of
glass plate & another glass plate was placed over it carefully.
• Above the glass plates, 2kg weight was placed at the centre of plate, ·
avoid sliding of plate.
• The diameter of the paste in cm was measured after 30 minutes.
• The experiment was repeated 3 times & the averages was reported for
all the samples.
•:• DETERMINATION OF FINENESS;
• A sample of 10g was accurately weighed and placed in a 100ml
beaker.
• To this, 50ml of wa ter was added & allowed to stand for 30minutes
with occasional stirring until the toothpaste was completely dispersed.
• This solution was passed through 150micron standard sieve & sieve
was washed with water.
• After washing, the residue remained on sieve was collected & dried in
an oven at 105°C.
• After drying, the sample was collected carefully & weighed
• Fineness was calculated by using the following fonnula;
Ml
Percentage by mass= MZ. 100
•!• DETERMINATION OF pH
• Take 10g of toothpaste in 150ml beaker.
• Add 10ml fres hly boiled & cooled water and stir well to make a
thorough suspension.
• Determine the pH of suspension using pH meter.
•!• DETERMINATION OF FOAMING POWER

• To 5g of sample, 10ml of wate r was added & covered with a watch
glass, allowed to stand for 3 0 min to disperse toothpaste in water
• The contents of the beaker was stirred & slurry was transferred to a
250ml graduated measuring cylinder, ensure that no foan1 was
produced & no lump went into the cylinder.
• The content of the cylinder was adjusted to 50ml by adding sufficient
water& temperature was maintained at 30°C
• Then the cylinder was stoppered & shaken it 12 times and the
cylinder was allowed to stand for 5 min and the vohune of foan1 was
noted for all sam pies.
• Foaming power = V1 - V2
► TOOTHPASTE FOR SENSITIVITY
Potassium -nitrate
-:; ..... ~':":'' ,.
- - w,r"'
• 1,•IfJ•
~:·t,~
.~ d~ 100/ow/w
~
.·, -
Glycerin .,, . ,,r-1' 250/ow/w
.I.LI .J .. ·- , -· - ~~
Polyoxyethylene Sorbitan manolaurate it 20/ow/w

Silica 24%
Flavour 1%
Sodium saccarbine 0.2%
Water
~--- __ - ,,,,.
Sensitive ~
.. ... _ _, _ .•~,
--~
0
• ' ·
1000/ow/w
. . . , . ,JoolhP'•I• ~
~
s~~9=-~ Y ~ ~
ITEETH WHITENING I
Glycerin 250/ow/w
Silica abrasive
Propylene glycol
Sodium bicarbonate
20°/4w/w
17.60/ow/w
12°/4w/w
:r
Water 6%w/w
Propylene glycol 600 30/ow/w
Sodium carbonate 20/ow/w
Silica thickener 2 o/ow/w
Sodium lauryl sulphate 1.7%.w/w
color 100%w/w
M P.i
AOTIYATID
...............
OHAROOAL
IMOUTH WASH I
• Mouthwash con tain antibacterial agents, alcohol, glycerin, sweetening
agent, flavouring agent and colouring agents.
• They are also used in oral mucous disease to treat mouth infections and
to maintain oral hygiene.
• Mouthwashes are used after diluting with warm water.
► FORMULA
Zinc sulphate 20ml
Zinc chloride 10ml
Dil. HCI 10ml
Compound tartrazine solution 1ml
Chloroform solution 500ml
Water Up to 100ml
• • ••
USIB&4.: GERM I CHECK+

COOL MINT
LN di•-"

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1. Write the definition and ideal properties of cosmetic.

DEFINITION OF COSMETICS AS PER INDIAN REGULATIONS:

DEFINITION OF COSMETICS AS PER EUROPEAN UNION (EU) REGULATIONS:

❖ Ideal Properties of Cosmetics:

1. Cosmetics should be non-toxic, non-irritant and acceptable to regulatory agencies.

2. Write the definition of Cosmeceuticals, Cosmetology, Cosmetologist.

1. Classification of Cosmetics according to their use:

(a) For skin:

(b) For nails:

(c) For teeth and mouth:

(d) For eyes:

(e) For hairs:

2. Classification of cosmetics according to their functions

3)Classification of cosmetics according to their physical nature

(g) Sticks: e.g. Lipsticks, deodorant sticks.

4. Classification of cosmetics according to their state

6. Topical Proteins and Peptides :

❖ Evolution of Cosmeceuticals from Cosmetics:

❖ COSMETICS AS QUASI AND OTC DRUGS

▪ Quasi drugs are generally classified into two types:

❖ COSMETICS AS OTC DRUGS

ADVANTAGES OF OTC DRUGS:

DISADVANTAGES OF OTC DRUGS;

▪ STRATUM SPINOSUM (PRICKLY CELL LAYER):

• ECRINE SWEAT GLAND

➢ Hair is made from strong structural protein named as Kerotin.

Hair is made up of two separate structures

1. The hair follicle

1. HAIR FOLLICLE: The living part of the hair

HAIR SHAFT: The dead hair

2.1. COSMETIC EXCIPIENTS

2.1 .2. Properties of Excipients

2.3. RHEOLOGY MODIFIERS

Rheology modifiers are often referred to as thickeners. It will also be essential to

Properties of an Ideal Humectant

Properties of an Ideal Preservative

2.8. 2. Short Answer Type Questions

2.8.3. Long Answer Type Question

Points to be covered in this topic

•!• SKIN CARE PRODUCTS ARE MADE AS PER BELOW SKIN

Ethanolic extract of lern on 1

Ethanolic extract of nee1n 1

Ethanolic extract of aloe vera 1

Ethanolic extract of curcun1a longa 1

Methyl paraben 0.1

Sodium lauryl sulphate 2

Distilled water q.s.

► IDEAL PROPERTIES OF COLD CREAM

► FORMULATION OF VANISHING CREAM

INGREDIENSTS QUANTITY CATEGORY

Potassium hydroxide 0.50% Alkali

and other areas of the body.

• Reduce apocrine sweating

Italian talc Isopropylan 33

Points to be covered in this topic

.... CHEMISTRY AND FORMULATION OF PARA-

... TOOTH PASTE FOR BLEEDING GUM , SENSITIVE

1 Water Upto 100%

with combing or brushing of the hair.

•!• CATIONIC SURFACTANTS