Coastal Environments yr.11
Coastal Environments yr.11
Definition of terms
Coast: It is the interface or narrow zone where the sea and land meet.
Coastline: It is the line where shore and water meet. Also called shoreline.
Waves: these are large movements of water in oceans due to effect of winds.
Features of waves
It is when waves move or transfer their energy towards the coast / shore from the
ocean.
It is when waves move or transfer their energy towards the ocean from the coast or
shore.
Fetch
Crest
Trough
Wavelength
1
It is the horizontal distance between two successive crests or troughs of a wave.
A- Swash
B- Backwash
C- Fetch
D- Coast/shore
E- Ocean
F- Crest
G- Trough
H- Wavelength
Types of waves
a} constructive waves
b} destructive waves.
When a wave reaches the shore, the water that rushes up the beach is known as
the swash.
The water that flows back towards the sea is known as the backwash.
2
The energy of the swash and backwash determine the type of wave.
a} Constructive waves
These types of waves are responsible for building features along the coast through
deposition.eg beaches and sand bars
b} Destructive waves
These types of waves destroy or modify the existing coastal features mainly through
erosion.
They remove more materials from the shore than is deposited. These waves are more
effective on steep sloping coasts.
3
weak swash
Formation of waves.
Waves approach the coast at an angle controlled by prevailing winds.
They approach the coast at the same angle as the prevailing winds.
The water particles in a wave move in a circular manner towards the coast.
Waves break when ocean water gets to shallow end due to friction between the
ocean water and ocean floor.
The top of the wave moves faster than the bottom as the wave breaks forming a hook
shape.
4
Wave action
Wave action involves three activities namely:
Erosion
Deposition
Transportation
A}Wave erosion
Also called marine erosion.
It is wearing away or breaking down of land by sea or waves.
Waves erode in four ways. Namely ;
Hydraulic action
Waves break against the cliffs by their sheer and tear force.
This air is compressed by the waves, eventually causing the rock to break apart.
Corrasion /Abrasion
It occurs when particles carried by the waves crash against the cliffs, they rub the cliff
through friction action eroding them.
Attrition
Particles carried by the waves crash against each other and are broken up into smaller
and rounded particles.
Corrosion/solution
The acids in sea water slowly dissolve the chalk and limestone cliffs and ocean floor.
5
They include; caves, cliffs, wave cut notch, wave cut platforms, headlands, bays,
arches, stacks and stumps.
i) Cliffs
They are steep sided resistant rocks facing the ocean or sea.
They are shaped through wave erosion.
Waves erode soft rocks quickly through corrosion, corrasion and hydraulic action
leaving behind hard rocks which are more resistant and forms steep cliffs.
A CLIFF
6
The crack is eroded and widened through corrasion(abrasion),
corrosion(solution) and hydraulic action to form a wave cut notch.
7
iv)Headlands and bays
they are formed along coastlines with alternating layers of hard[resistant] and
soft(less resistant)rocks.
Destructive waves erode the soft rocks rapidly to form bays.
The hard rocks are left protruding into the ocean to form headlands.
The headlands are fully exposed to waves and maybe eroded with time.
Headlands shelter bays from destructive waves.
2. Soft rocks get eroded by waves and hard rocks left protruding towards the sea.
3. Headlands and bays formed.
8
A headland usually features:
o Have cliffs along its sides
o Projects out to sea
o Usually longer than it is wide
o Geology is of resistant rock
o
A bay usually has:
o A wide, open entrance from the sea.
o A roughly, semi-circular shape extending into the coastline.
o Land that is lower than the headlands surrounding it.
o A bay may or may not have a beach.
iii) Caves
The headlands may have cracks or lines of weakness.
iv) Arches
If two caves lying adjacent to each other meet an arch is formed with an
opening through the headland.
An arch may also form when wave erosion attacks a headland from opposite
sides.
As the two sides meet they form a hollow structure called an arch.
Both caves and arches have a roof.
9
v) Stacks and stumps
The arch continually becomes wider through further erosion and undercut from
all sides, until its roof becomes too heavy and collapses into the sea due to lack
of support.
This leaves behind an isolated pillar/rock in the sea called a stack.
The stack is fully exposed to destructive waves from all sides.
The foot of the stack is eroded continuously by waves.
The top part of the stack finally collapses into the sea leaving behind a short
bottom part of the stack known as the stump.
It is only visible at low tides.
10
The key factors which affect coastlines are:
The rock type/geology :Hard rocks produce headlands while soft rocks are
easily eroded and they produce bas along the coastlines.
The angle of the slope : steep slopes erode more violently and frequently.
Weather conditions : freezing temperatures and heavy rain increase weathering
and the rate of erosion.
The amount of vegetation : the presence of vegetation helps stabilise slopes
but also increases the occurrence of biological weathering.
The amount of human activities : if there are no man-made structures (eg sea
walls) to protect the coast, then the coast is more vulnerable to attack. However,
the construction of houses, industry and other man-made structures in the first
instance are the reasons why coastal erosion is a concern.
The fetch of the wave and the strength of the wind: Powerful winds and a
long fetch create the most damaging (erosive) waves.
Students activity
Which statement below, best describes the characteristics of a destructive wave?
(1)
WAVE TRANSPORTATION
Longshore drift:
It is the main process of deposition and transportation along the coast.
Waves move in the same direction as the prevailing winds towards the coast.
The Swash carries sediments at acute angles towards the coast and the backwash
carries the sediments back to the ocean at right angles.
The swash and backwash carry sediments along the coast repeatedly within each
wave forming a zigzag pattern.
11
The Process of Longshore Drift
B} Wave deposition
12
The swash is very strong to carry a lot of materials towards the coast while the
backwash is very weak hence does not carry deposited materials back to the ocean.
Factors leading to wave deposition include:
shallow water
little or no wind
Depositional landforms
When water loses its energy, any sediment it is carrying is deposited. The build-up of
deposited sediment can form different features along the coast. They include; beaches,
spit, bar, salt marsh, tombolo and sand dunes
i}Beaches
They are formed along coasts from continuous deposition of sand or shingles or
both by constructive waves.
They are temporary because the deposited materials are loose and can be
carried back to the ocean in case of destructive waves.
Waves with strong swash bring a lot of sand or shingles to the coast and
because the backwash is very weak the materials are piled up and deposited
along the coast to form a beach.
A sandy beach has a gentle sloping profile, whereas a shingle beach can be
much steeper.
The size of the material is larger far inland of the beach, due to the high-energy
storm waves carrying large sediment.
The smallest material is found nearest the water as the waves break here and
break down the rock through attrition.
Shingles are small smooth rounded stones.
13
ii}Spits
14
Main features of a spit.
iii}Sand Bar .
15
iv} Tombolo
It is formed when a spit grows due to continuous deposition by constructive waves until
the other side gets attached to an island.
v}Sand dunes
16
their formation is not affected by waves. Formed on the far end of the beach
inland due to effect of prevailing winds.
They move dry sand across the beach until it meets an obstacle that can be a
rock or bushes.
The dry sand is deposited on one side of the obstacle and with time forms a ridge
known as a sand dune.
The sand dunes are parallel to the coastline.
The top part of a sand dune has a hook shape.
WEATHERING
Weathering is the break-down of rock in-situ. Weathering does not involve
the movement of material and this makes it different from erosion
Sub-aerial weathering describes coastal processes that are not linked to the
action of the sea
It includes freeze-thaw weathering (mechanical/physical) and salt weathering
Weathering weakens cliffs and makes them more vulnerable to erosion
Chemical weathering: occurs when rocks are broken down by a chemical process
e.g Carbonation.
17
Rainwater is slightly acidic through absorbing carbon dioxide from the
atmosphere forming weak carbonic acids.
This reacts with minerals in the rock creating new material.
Rock-type affects the rate of weathering e.g. limestone chemically weathers
faster than granite
The warmer the temperature, the faster the chemical reaction.
Biological weathering: takes place when rocks are worn away by living organisms.For
example
Trees and other plants can grow within the cracks in a rock formation
As the roots grow bigger they push open cracks in the rocks making them wider
and deeper.
Over time the growing tree eventually prizes the rock apart
Tiny organisms like bacteria, algae and moss can grow on rocks
These produce chemicals that break down the surface layer of the rock
Burrowing animals such as rabbits disturb the ground .This destabilizes the rock
above the burrow increasing pressure on any cracks which eventually leads to
pieces falling off the rock
Mass Movement
Mass Movement
18
Rock fall/scree
o Slopes are steep and movement is rapid
o Caused by a number of reasons:
Extreme weathering - freeze-thaw action can loosen rocks that
become unstable and collapse
Rainfall - too much rain will soften the surface leading to collapse of
the slope
Earthquakes can dislodge unstable rocks
Hot weather can dry out soil causing it to shrink and allow rocks to
fall
Student activity
Outline two ways that sub-aerial processes can affect the shape of a cliff (4)
19
Physical management of the coast attempts to control natural processes such
as erosion and flooding along the coastal areas.
They include.
Destruction of farmland.Fertile soil and crops are swept away by strong waves.
Destruction of property like roads and houses near coastal regions.
Increased expenses while doing repairs for destroyed property.
Increased deaths of both people and animals who are swept away by the waves.
High cost of insurance on property along the coast due to high risks.
Lack of market on coastal properties like houses or land along the coast.
This involves what has been done to protect the coast from wave erosion.
They are expensive, short-term options and are not friendly to the environment.
20
Examples of hard engineering methods are;
They also protect the base of cliffs, land and buildings against erosion and also prevent
coastal flooding in some areas.
However, they are expensive to build. Also curved sea walls reflect the energy of the
waves back to the sea hence the waves remain powerful.
Over time the wall may begin to erode increasing the cost of maintenance.
Prevents the movement of beach material along the coast by longshore drift.
21
They can however be seen as unattractive, costly to build and maintain.
22
iv}Building riprap.
23
A staircase of blocks is placed on the coastline.
They help distribute wave power making it less powerful.
They are unsuitable/unreliable for high energy conditions and expensive to build.
This includes use of natural and environment friendly options to reduce erosion.
They are less expensive, long-term and sustainable, with less impact on the
environment.
They include;
1. Beach nourishment
24
It is a relatively inexpensive option but requires constant maintenance to replace
the beach material as it is washed away.
2. Managed retreat/realignment.
This is when areas of the coast are allowed to erode and flood naturally on low
value areas eg places not being used for housing or farmland.
The advantages are that it encourages the development of beaches (a natural
defence) and salt marshes to slow the wave speed and reduce wave energy.
It is a cheap option, but people will need to be compensated for loss of buildings
and farmland damaged in case the areas flood. This makes the method
unreliable at times.
3.Cliff stabilization
4.Afforestation.
COASTAL ECOSYSTEMS
25
A} Coral reefs.
It is an underwater ecosystem build by colonies of tiny animals called polyps.
It is a community of living organisms that exist in colonies.
It has a wide biodiversity because it is made up of plants, fish and many other
creatures.
They are usually found in tropical and sub tropical seas between 30 degrees
north and south of the equator.
Global distribution of coral
26
4. Clean water.
Corals are sensitive to pollution and sediments. Sediment can create cloudy water and
be deposited on corals, blocking out the sun and harming the polyps. Wastewater
discharged into the ocean near the reef can contain too many nutrients that cause
seaweeds to overgrow the reef.
5. Salty / saline water.
Corals need saltwater to survive and require a certain balance in the ratio of salt to
water. This is why corals don’t live in areas where rivers drain fresh water into the ocean
like estuaries.
6. Presence of planktons.
Planktons provide food for the polyps and increase the amount oxygen in the water .
7. Plentiful supply of oxygen.
Oxygen facilitates growth of planktons hence the coral reefs.
8. Calm waters
To prevent the forming coral reefs from being swept away by strong waves.
9. Basic/ alkaline water
Around pH 8.
Too much acidic/alkaline water kills the polyps hence no coral reefs forming
2. An habitat.
Coral reefs often host fish that live further offshore. They provide breeding and areas
with calm waters for the fish to lay eggs.
27
3. A food resource.
Reef animals like fish, crustaceans, molluscs and other invertebrates are an important
source of protein.
4. An economic importance.
Because of the income coming directly from fishing in their waters, reefs provide
resources and services worth billions of dollars every year. Millions of people around
the world depend on coral reefs for food, protection and employment.
5. A tourism wealth
They attract divers, recreational fishermen and lovers of white sand beaches. Through
tourist services, billions of dollars are collected.
6. A medical future.
Coral reefs also contribute to the advancement of research. Reefs contain chemical
compounds that have molecules that have the potential of our drug discovery. Reef
organisms are used in the treatment of diseases such as certain cancers including
leukemia, HIV, cardiovascular diseases, ulcers. In addition, long coral skeleton,
because of its very close similarity to our bones nature, served as material for bone
grafts.
28
Coral harvesting for the aquarium trade, jewelry, and curios can lead to over-harvesting
of specific species, destruction of reef habitat, and reduced biodiversity.
4. Increased ocean temperatures.
These threats are caused by warmer atmospheric temperatures and increasing levels
of carbon dioxide in seawater.
Global warming causes seawater temperatures. This warming causes corals to lose
algae that produce food that corals need, placing stress on the corals.
The coral also lose their coloration—a condition known as coral bleaching. Severe or
prolonged bleaching can kill coral colonies or leave them more vulnerable to other
threats such as infectious disease.
5. Ocean acidification.
As more carbon dioxide is released into the atmosphere, it has adverse effects on the
oceans.
Carbon dioxide entering seawater reacts to form carbonic acid, causing an increase in
acidity. High acidic levels kills corals.
B] Mangrove swamps
Mangrove swamps are areas of vegetation found along sheltered tropical coastlines
and estuaries.
They are made up of different species of evergreen mangrove trees and other plants.
29
Physical characteristics of mangroves
they have special aerial roots that help in gaseous exchange and filter salts.
They have leaves that excrete salts.
They have prop roots that help in support.
They are a home to diverse number of species e.g. fish, birds, frogs, snakes,
insects, and crocodiles,mammals,crabs.
Also, mammals like rats and monkeys, tigers.
They protect the coastline from erosion by acting as a natural barrier and flood
defense.
They filter pollutants from rivers.
30
They prevent sediments from reaching the nearby coral reefs.
Sand dunes can be small ridges or large hills usually found at the back of a
beach
They can extend backwards for many miles as well as along the beach
They are an important ecosystem supporting unique flora and fauna that have
adapted to live within the dune system
Dunes are vulnerable to erosion by natural processes and human activity:
It is common to see vulnerable sections of dunes fenced off to prevent public
access, or for paths to be laid to prevent people from eroding the dunes further
Salt marshes are found all over the world and are not temperature dependant
Like mangroves, they are an ecosystem of the intertidal zone
They are typically very flat, with numerous channels running through them
They form in:
Coastal areas that are well sheltered, such as inlets and estuaries where fine
sediments can be deposited
Areas behind spits and artificial sea defences where tidal waters can flow
gently and deposit fine sediments
They form in brackish water (partly salty and fresh).
31
Features of Salt Marshes
Conflicts of interest
Land uses in coastal areas include tourism, industry, fishing, trade and transport.
There are many different groups of people who have different interests in how coastal
areas are used and managed.
Local residents
environmental groups
developers
local councils
national governments
tourist boards
People may want to develop tourism in the area or existing tourism could be
declining.
Mauritius is an island in the Indian Ocean which is famous for its beautiful lagoons
and beaches.
The coastline is 322 km long and is almost surrounded by fringing coral reefs.
The coastal zones and lagoons are used mainly for tourism, fishing, and leisure
activities such as diving, sailing and water skiing.
Before the 1960s,there was little urban growth in the coastal areas.
This economic growth has led to changes in land use along the coastline, particularly
the growth of settlement and tourist facilities, industry and ports.
33
Hazards along the Coast.
Twenty one beaches in Mauritius experience coastal erosion and 22 sites have
experienced recent flooding.
In some places, sea walls have collapsed and roads have been eroded, especially after
storms. The risk to life and livelihoods for people who live in coastal settlements is
increasing
34