Coastal Depositional Features notes
Coastal Depositional Features notes
Subject: Geography
Grade: 10
bays where they are called bayhead beaches. When waves enter these bays they are forced to
bend to mirror the shape of the coast. This is called wave refraction. It is caused by the
shallowing of the water as the waves enter the bay. Refraction spreads out and reduces the
wave energy in a bay, which is why deposition occurs here. Sandy beaches can also be found
Spits
A spit is a long, narrow finger of sand or shingles jutting out into the sea from the land. Spits
are formed by the process of longshore drift, and they tend to occur where there is a change
in the direction of the coastline - for example, at a river mouth. The following conditions are
Waves must approach the coast at an angle, so that longshore drift moves material
along the coast rather than simply up and down the beach.
For most spits, the sea is usually calm, with low-energy constructive waves.
Over time, a spit becomes colonised by grass and bushes and eventually trees will grow. On
the sheltered landward side of a spit, where the water is very calm, mudflats and salt marshes
will form. These are important habitats for plants and birds. Cocal spit in Trinidad is a good
Tombolo
This is a linear deposit of material formed by longshore drift which joins an island to the
mainland. This happens when a spit grow out to join an island to the minland. The island of
Scotts Head on the southern coast of Dominica has become attached to the mainland by a
tombolo as a result of deposition of sediment by longshore drift from east to west. The
A bar is a linear deposit of beach material running approximately parallel to the line of the
coast. Some bars are submerged and others appear above the waves. They may be stabilized
An offshore bar is not directly joined to the coast. It is formed where a long tongue of sand
is deposited parallel to the coastline by breaking waves as they approach the shore. Offshore
bars may be formed parallel to gently sloping coasts that are being gradually submerged.
There are offshore and barrier islands off the cost of Florida, Georgia and Virgnia in USA.
Bay-bar is a tongue of sand or other material that extends across a bay. Some are formed by
longshore drift. Water trapped behind the bar can form a lagoon.
Lagoons
The still, sheltered water behind a spit or a bar may form a lagoon. Within a lagoon: