COASTS

External Forces
01. WHAT IS A COAST?

02. CONSTRUCTIVE AND

DESTRUCTIVE WAVES

03. COASTAL LANDFORMS

04. CORAL REEFS

05. COASTAL EROSION AND

TABLE OF
DEPOSITION
CONTENT
WHAT IS A
COAST?

A coast is the area where

land meets the sea or ocean.
It is the transitional zone
between terrestrial (land-
based) and marine (water-
based) environments.
 KEY CHARACTERISTICS OF
COASTS INCLUDE:
INTERPLAY OF LAND AND VARIABILITY ECOLOGICAL
ECONOMIC
WATER DIVERSITY
SIGNIFICANCE
Coasts are defined by Coasts are highly Coastal areas are often
Coasts play a vital
the dynamic interaction variable and constantly rich in biodiversity and
role in economies
between the land and changing due to the provide habitats for a
through activities
the water. This influence of factors wide range of species,
such as tourism,
interaction results in such as tides, waves, including birds, marine
fishing, shipping,
various coastal currents, erosion, and life, and various plants.
trade, and
landforms. sediment deposition.
recreational pursuits.
ENVIRONMENTAL CHALLENGES CULTURAL AND RECREATIONAL
VALUE
COASTAL AREAS ARE COASTAL REGIONS OFTEN HAVE
VULNERABLE TO CULTURAL AND RECREATIONAL
ENVIRONMENTAL CHALLENGES, IMPORTANCE. THEY MAY BE HOME
INCLUDING COASTAL EROSION, TO COASTAL COMMUNITIES,
SEA-LEVEL RISE, POLLUTION, INDIGENOUS CULTURES, AND
AND NATURAL DISASTERS SUCH HISTORIC SITES. THEY ALSO
AS HURRICANES AND TSUNAMIS. PROVIDE OPPORTUNITIES FOR
LEISURE ACTIVITIES SUCH AS
BEACHGOING AND WATER SPORTS.

CONTINUATION....
CONSTRUCTIVE VS
DESTRUCTIVE
WAVES
CONSTRUCTIVE
WAVES
These are low-energy waves that gently wash up
on the shoreline. They have a swash (the forward
movement of water up the beach) that is
stronger than the backwash (the backward flow
of water back to the sea).
This results in the gradual accumulation of sand
and pebbles on the coastline. Constructive
waves are typically associated with calm, sunny
weather conditions and are important for
building and maintaining sandy beaches. They
often have a long wavelength.
 DESTRUCTIVE
WAVES

Destructive waves are high-energy waves

that crash onto the shoreline with
considerable force. They have a strong
backwash, which carries sand and sediment
back into the sea. Destructive waves are
usually associated with stormy weather and
can lead to the erosion of the coastline by
removing sediment. They often have a short
wavelength and a steep wave profile.
 CHARACTERISTICS OF CONSTRUCTIVE AND
DESTRUCTIVE WAVES
FREQUENCY: CONSTRUCTIVE WAVES
WAVE HEIGHT: CONSTRUCTIVE WAVES
HAVE A LOWER FREQUENCY, WITH
HAVE A LOWER WAVE HEIGHT, WITH
LONGER GAPS BETWEEN WAVES, WHILE
SMALLER AND LESS POWERFUL WAVES,
WHILE DESTRUCTIVE WAVES HAVE A DESTRUCTIVE WAVES HAVE A HIGHER
HIGHER WAVE HEIGHT, WITH LARGER, MORE FREQUENCY, WITH SHORTER GAPS
POWERFUL WAVES THAT BREAK WITH BETWEEN WAVES.
FORCE.

SWASH AND BACKWASH PATTERNS: IN

ENERGY: CONSTRUCTIVE WAVES CONSTRUCTIVE WAVES, THE SWASH IS
CARRY LESS ENERGY, MAKING THEM STRONGER THAN THE BACKWASH, RESULTING
LESS EROSIVE. DESTRUCTIVE IN THE GRADUAL DEPOSITION OF SEDIMENT
WAVES CARRY MORE ENERGY AND ON THE BEACH. IN DESTRUCTIVE WAVES, THE
ARE HIGHLY EROSIVE. BACKWASH IS STRONGER THAN THE SWASH,
LEADING TO THE REMOVAL OF SEDIMENT
FROM THE BEACH.
 EFFECTS ON THE COASTLINE AND COASTAL FEATURES:
CONSTRUCTIVE WAVES HELP BUILD UP SANDY COASTLINES,
CREATING WIDE BEACHES AND SANDBARS. DESTRUCTIVE
WAVES, ON THE OTHER HAND, CAN ERODE THE COASTLINE BY
REMOVING SAND AND SEDIMENT, RESULTING IN THE
FORMATION OF SEA CLIFFS, ROCKY SHORES, AND UNIQUE
COASTAL FEATURES.
 Example: Maracas Beach, Trinidad and Tobago
CARIBBEAN At Maracas Beach, constructive waves are
prominent. The gently sloping beach is
EXAMPLES: nourished by the deposition of sand, creating a
picturesque and popular destination for locals
Constructive Waves in the and tourists. The swash carries sand up the
Caribbean
shore, contributing to the accumulation of sand
and pebbles.
CARIBBEAN
Example: Bathsheba Beach, Barbados
Bathsheba Beach in Barbados is a classic
EXAMPLES: example of a location where destructive waves
have had a significant impact. The powerful
Destructive Waves in the waves, driven by the Atlantic Ocean, have
Caribbean eroded the coastline over time, creating
dramatic rock formations, tide pools, and a
rugged, unique coastal landscape.
 COASTAL
LANDFORMS
CLIFF

A cliff is a steep, vertical or near-vertical rock face that

forms when the sea erodes a coastline through
hydraulic action and abrasion. The waves wear away
the softer rock, leaving behind the harder rock as a
prominent feature.

Caribbean Example: The rocky cliffs along the north

coast of Trinidad, such as those near Toco, are formed
due to wave erosion, and they provide scenic views of
the Caribbean Sea.
NOTCH
A notch is a small,
concave depression or
groove that forms on a
Caribbean Example:
rock surface due to
Notches can be
the abrasive action of
found along the rocky
waves. Over time,
coastlines of islands
notches can deepen
like St. Vincent and
and contribute to the
the Grenadines,
formation of caves and
where constant wave
other features.
action has carved
small grooves into
the volcanic rock.
WAVE-CUT
PLATFORM
A wave-cut platform is a gently sloping, flat area of rock that extends seaward from the base of a cliff. It
forms as waves erode the base of a cliff and leave a flat surface.

Caribbean Example: The Bathsheba area in Barbados has a notable wave-cut platform formed by the
erosive power of the Atlantic Ocean, where large, flat rock surfaces stretch out from the cliffs.
 HEADLAND AND BAY
A headland is a high and narrow piece of land
that juts out into the sea. A bay is a curved
body of water surrounded by land on three
sides. These landforms are created by
differential erosion, where more resistant rock
forms headlands and less resistant rock forms
bays.

Caribbean Example: The formation of

headlands and bays is evident along the
southern coast of Jamaica, especially in areas
like Portland, where the coastline is
characterized by a series of rocky headlands
and sheltered bays.
CAVES
Caves are hollow openings in coastal
rocks, formed through the dissolution of
limestone or the erosion of softer rocks
by waves and chemical processes.

Caribbean Example: Harrison's Cave in

Barbados is an example of a large,
underground limestone cave formed by
wave erosion and chemical processes.
 ARCHES

An arch is a natural rock formation

created when a cave's roof erodes,
leaving a bridge-like structure over
water. Arches are often the result
of wave erosion.

Caribbean Example: The Natural

Arch in Aruba is a well-known
example of an arch formed by the
constant wave action of the
Caribbean Sea.
STACKS
Stacks are isolated, tall, and steep
columns of rock that are left behind
when the arch connecting them to the
coastline collapses due to erosion.

Caribbean Example: The "Three Sisters"

rock formations in Antigua are a group
of stacks along the coast that have
formed over time.
BEACHES

Beaches are coastal landforms consisting

of sand, pebbles, or other sediments
deposited by waves and currents. They
form in areas where constructive waves
bring sediment to the shore.

Caribbean Example: Grand Anse Beach in

Grenada is a famous Caribbean beach
with fine white sand, created by
constructive wave action.
 SPIT
A spit is a long, narrow
sandbar or beach ridge that
extends from the coast into
open water. Spits are formed
by the deposition of sediment
carried by longshore drift.

Caribbean Example: Pigeon

Point in Tobago has a spit that
extends into the Buccoo Reef
Marine Park, offering a
stunning example of this
landform.
TOMBOLO
A tombolo is a sandbar or spit that
connects an island to the
mainland. It forms when sediment
is deposited between the island
and the mainland.

Caribbean Example: The island of

Barbuda in the Eastern Caribbean
is connected to the larger island of
Antigua by a tombolo, forming the
Codrington Lagoon.
 BARS
Bars are submerged or partly exposed sand
or gravel ridges that form offshore and
parallel to the shoreline. They can create
shallow lagoons or change the flow of tides.

Caribbean Example: The Los Roques

archipelago in Venezuela has a series of
sandbars and bars that influence the coastal
and marine landscape in the region.
CORAL REEFS
CORAL REEFS
Coral reefs are diverse and complex
marine ecosystems made up of colonies
of tiny animals called coral polyps. These
polyps secrete calcium carbonate to
create a hard, rock-like structure that
forms the basis of the reef. Coral reefs are
some of the most biologically diverse and
productive ecosystems on the planet.
They play a crucial role in supporting
marine life, protecting coastlines from
erosion, and attracting tourists to the
Caribbean and other regions.
 KEY FEATURES OF CORAL REEFS

1 2 3

BIODIVERSITY: CALCIUM CARBONATE SYMBIOTIC RELATIONSHIPS:

CORAL REEFS ARE KNOWN STRUCTURE: CORAL POLYPS HAVE A
FOR THEIR INCREDIBLE MUTUALISTIC RELATIONSHIP
THE CALCIUM
BIODIVERSITY, HOSTING A WITH PHOTOSYNTHETIC ALGAE
CARBONATE CALLED ZOOXANTHELLAE,
WIDE VARIETY OF MARINE
EXOSKELETONS OF WHICH PROVIDE CORALS WITH
SPECIES, INCLUDING FISH,
INVERTEBRATES, AND ALGAE. CORAL POLYPS NUTRIENTS AND COLOR. IN
THE REEFS PROVIDE HABITAT, ACCUMULATE OVER RETURN, THE CORAL PROVIDES
TIME, FORMING THE THE ALGAE WITH A PROTECTED
BREEDING GROUNDS, AND
ENVIRONMENT.
FOOD FOR COUNTLESS HARD, ROCKY
ORGANISMS. STRUCTURE OF THE REEF.
TYPES OF CORAL
REEFS IN THE
CARIBBEAN
Fringing Reefs
Description: Fringing reefs are the most
common type of reef in the Caribbean. They
are located close to the shoreline, with the
coral directly attached to the coast or
separated by a narrow, shallow lagoon.
These reefs can be found along the edges of
islands and continental shorelines.

Characteristics: Fringing reefs often grow in

shallow, nearshore waters, and they are
usually the youngest type of coral reef. They
provide vital habitat for various marine
species and offer opportunities for
snorkeling and diving.

Buccoo Reef in Tobago is a classic example

of a fringing reef.
Barrier Reefs
Description: Barrier reefs are typically found
farther from the shoreline, separated by a
deeper and wider lagoon. These reefs run
parallel to the coast and are separated from it
by a channel of open water.

Characteristics: Barrier reefs are often larger

and older than fringing reefs, and they can be
several kilometers wide. The lagoon between
the reef and the coast provides unique
habitats and is often used for navigation,
fishing, and other activities.

Caribbean Example: The Mesoamerican Barrier

Reef System, which stretches from Mexico
through Belize and Honduras, is one of the
most significant barrier reefs in the Caribbean.
 Coral reefs specific environmental
conditions and factors
Shallow and Clear
Warm Water Water: Coral Stable Salinity: Adequate
Temperature: Coral reefs thrive in Coral reefs require Sunlight: Corals
reefs are typically shallow water, stable and near- rely on sunlight
found in warm usually less than constant salinity for
tropical and levels.
50 meters (164 photosynthesis,
subtropical waters feet) deep, to Fluctuations in
so they need to
with an average allow sufficient salinity can stress
be in well-
temperature between light penetration corals and inhibit
20°C (68°F) and 29°C illuminated
for their growth.
(84°F). areas.
photosynthesis
 Coral reefs specific environmental
conditions and factors
Low 1. Stable Water
Low Nutrient Levels: Solid Substrate: Sedimentation: Conditions: Coral
Coral reefs thrive in Coral reefs Excessive reefs need stable
nutrient-poor waters. require a hard sedimentation can
substrate for water conditions
High nutrient levels smother corals
can lead to the coral larvae to with minimal
and inhibit their
overgrowth of algae, settle on and fluctuations in
growth. Successful
which can smother build their reefs are often
temperature,
corals. calcium found in areas with salinity, and pH to
carbonate low sediment allow corals to
skeletons. input. thrive.
 Coral reefs specific environmental
conditions and factors
Limited Exposure Low Fishing Ocean Acidification:
Low Levels of to Storms: While Pressure: Ocean acidification,
Pollution: Pollution coral reefs can Sustainable fishing a consequence of
from runoff, sewage, withstand some practices are increased
and other sources wave action, essential to
atmospheric carbon
can negatively impact excessive prevent
dioxide, can harm
coral reefs. exposure to overfishing of
herbivorous fish
coral reefs by
strong storms
that help control making it harder for
and wave energy
algae growth on corals to build their
can damage or
destroy them. reefs. calcium carbonate
skeletons.
1.
 COASTAL
EROSION AND
DEPOSITION
 Other things to note:

Storms and
Tides and Tidal Coastal Economic
Hurricanes: The
Currents: Tides play Management: Importance: Coastal
Caribbean region
a crucial role in Effective coastal regions are often
is prone to
coastal dynamics. management is hubs of economic
tropical storms
Knowledge of tidal necessary to
and hurricanes. activity, with
patterns, including balance the
Understanding industries such as
high tides, low tides, conservation of
and the resulting
the impact of tourism, fishing,
coastal
these extreme shipping, and trade.
tidal currents ecosystems with
weather events
human activities.
on coasts
 Other things to note:

Cultural and
Climate Change and Conservation and Research and
Societal Aspects:
Sea-Level Rise: Restoration: Efforts Monitoring: Ongoing
Coastal regions research and
Climate change is to conserve and
often have rich monitoring of coastal
leading to rising sea restore coastal
cultural histories, ecosystems, including
levels, which can ecosystems, such
including water quality, marine
threaten coastal as coral reefs and
indigenous life, and shoreline
communities and mangroves, are
communities, changes, provide
ecosystems. vital for preserving
traditions, and critical data for
biodiversity and
heritage. informed decision-
protecting
making and sustainable
coastlines.
management.
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