Bahir Dar University

Ethiopian institute of Textile

and
Fashion Technology
Basic Construction
Techniques
Introduction
The dominant process in garment assembly is

sewing, still it is the best way of achieving

strength and flexibility in the seam as well as

flexibility of manufacturing method.

A fashion designer needs to see the relevance

in learning how to sew garments and realize

how it is connected to the design process.

Cont.…
The concepts a designer’ should understand

is,

How can you design if you don’t know; How

your designs are going to be transformed

from a sketch to an actual garment?

Your work is not just to draw a sketch !!! But

also to provide a technical specifications

History of Sewing

The use of clothing dates back to the beginning

of the history of mankind, the purpose being
principally for protection against bad
weathers.
Cont.…
Primitive sewing tools such as awls and

needles made from bone, fishbone, spines

from plants, wood and bronze – given
evidence of the sewing techniques of
prehistoric times.

The first efforts to sew with a machine came in

1750 by an Englishman named Wiesenthal.

Cont.…
In 1790, an English joiner named Thomas
Saint applied for a patent for a wooden sewing
machine, which produced a chain stitch. This
was a very primitive machine with very few
moving parts but it was the beginning of a
revolution in clothing manufacture.
Cont.…
As the decades continued, more and more

machines were invented and developed.

Wooden machines were replaced with metal

ones producing an array of different stitch

types for special applications.

Cont.…
Over the past 90 years, the main emphasis for
sewing machine development focused on
stitching speed and reliability, and, more
recently, on efficiency, flexibility and
automation.

The single-needle lockstitch machine,

known in industry as the flat bed machine, is the
most commonly used machine in the industry
Types of Sewing Machines
Sewing machines are now available in various
models such as domestic model, tailor model,
industrial model, portable.

Basically they are distinguished by the mode

of operating method
a) By hand

b) By treadle

c) By electric motor
A) Hand – Operated Sewing
Machine
This machine is generally suitable for domestic
purpose because it does not help in speeding up the
work.
B) Treadle Sewing Machine

Operates faster than that of

the hand-operated machine.

Is suitable where there is no

power supply.

When handling this machine

both the hands are free to
handle the fabric, speeding up
the work.
C) Electric Sewing
Machine

This Sewing machine is the fastest compared

to the other 2 Sewing machine One needs
practice to handle it.

In an electric machine the balance wheel comes

to motion by a belt, which is attached to an
electric motor
Cont.…
In Industry we have:

• Basic sewing machines.

• Semi-automatic machines.
• Automated workstations
• Reprogrammable automated
systems.
Parts of
Sewing
Machine
1 Spool Pin : A small cylinder
Holds a spool of thread. Spools can
be wooden, plastic, metal or
cardboard.
2 Bobbin Winder: Spindle
Bobbin is placed here during
winding.
3 Bobbin Winder: Stopper
Stops winding the bobbin when
it reaches capacity.
4 Bobbin Winder tension
controller: Controls the
bobbin tread tension and

5 Stitch type selector: allows to

select one of the decorative
stitches built in the sewing
machine
6 Hand Wheel: The large knob on
the right side of the machine.
Manually raises and lowers the
7 stitch length dial: Controls the length of the
stitch. Shorter stitches for finer fabrics,
longer for heavier fabrics, basting and
gathering.
 Length - The length of
each complete stitch.
Stitch length is measured
in Inch on most machines.
S/I -------------------------
--
8 Reverse Stitch Lever:
The machine will sew in
reverse while the lever is
pushed. Depending on the
machine model, this may be
a button.
9 Power Switch: The off-on
switch is usually located on
the right side of the machine,
beneath the hand wheel.
10 Bobbin Winder Thread Guide: A thread guide
used when a bobbin is being wound.

11 Thread Tension Dial:

Controls the tension on the top
thread.

Tension - The amount of

resistance the sewing machine
gives to the thread in the sewing
needle and lower bobbin.
12 Thread Take-up Lever:
The top thread passes
through the thread take-up
lever. It moves up and down
with the needle.

13 Needle Clamp Screw:

This clamp holds the needle
in place.
14 Presser Foot: When
lowered using a lever on the
back side of the machine,
this foot holds fabric in place.

15 Feed Dog:
The feed dog pulls
fabric forward while
sewing.
16 Needle: A needle pushes the thread
through the fabric to form a stitch.
17 Throat Plate: A metal plate
beneath the needle and presser
foot. It has an opening for the
needle to pass through as it
stitches, and another for the
feed dogs to emerge and help
move the fabric forward during
sewing. Also called a throat
18 Bobbin case: holds small
spools of thread that are used in
the bottom part of the machine

19 Bobbin : are holds

small spools of thread that
are inserted in the Bobbin
case
SEWING TOOLS
Tape measure: Long plastic
or fiberglass strip with marks
for measuring:
• Fabric

• Patterns

• Body Measurements

Yard Stick: Wooden

measuring stick.
Usually a yard or a meter
long
Scissors: shorter Shears: different sizes
blades and handles holes and blades are to
have matching holes one side used for cutting
and are centered, fabric
used to cut papers
Pinking Shears: used to finish
raw edges

Pinking shears cut a special edge

VVVVVVVVVV

Thread Clips: Used to Seam Ripper: A small sharp

clip the threads as you tool Used to remove stitches

sew
Marking pencils & pens:
Special pens or pencils that
are used to mark fabric when
sewing

Tailors chalk: Used to mark

cutting line on fabric
Point turner: Plastic
or wooden point turner Bodkin: Used for
used to push out inserting elastic or
points such as collars drawstrings into casings
and cuffs
Sewing Gauge: short 6 inch ruler with movable
slide for marking hems, seams or other
measurements

Straight Pins: Sharp pins

used to hold fabric while
sewing
Pincushions: There are
many kinds of pincushions

Thimble: For finger protection

during hand stitching
How and where to sit while on basic
sewing m/c
INCORRECT
Wrists at
POSTURE
bad angle
Head Must dive to
see Stress on neck
Stand No back support
ard
sewin
g or
kitche
n
table
CORRECT
POSTURE
Foot pedalPressure on Gum raiser
slides back legs
Sit against Lower
away chair back for table
support top
Elbow , hip and
knee are at near
right angles
Chair seat is Heel is
lower than on
you’d expect pedal
 Take caring A sewing
Machine
Routine care keeps a sewing machine in top working
condition.
Lint from fabric collects around the bobbin and needle bar can
eventually clog the machine.
A sewing machine should be cleaned before starting a new
project and after finishing the work.

Always unplug the machine before cleaning.

Use a soft cloth to lint or fuzz from the machine base
and needle bar.
Use a soft brush to gently clean the bobbin and bobbin
case.
Wipe away old oil with a cloth.
Wipe the machine with a cloth to remove any drips or
excess oil.
Then plug it in and stitch on a fabric scrap to be sure excess
Safety Rules While Sitting on sewing
Machine
Follow these safety suggestions when using sewing
equipment.

 Always unplug the machine before cleaning.

 To prevent accidental swallowing, never hold
pins in your mouth.
 Don’t place pins in the clothes you’re wearing.
Forgotten pins might cause injury
 Keep shears and scissors closed when not in
use.
 Pass a sharp object handle-first to another
person.
 Keep all tools in your sewing box when not in
use.
Thank
you ! ! !