A native of Jacqueville, a small coastal town where attiéké is made, she features it heavily in the menu of her New York supper clubs.

The heart of the space is an airy, sophisticated sitting room that connects on the south side to a dining room suggestive of decadent late night suppers in postwar Paris, and an industrial-inflected kitchen.

While the ONS says the figures are estimates, it suggests the cost of a fish supper has gone up more in percentage terms than that for pizza, or an Indian or Chinese main course.

His valet fed him one last spoonful of supper and dabbed his chins.

More supper clubs have emerged, while slow burns like magazine collaging are a hit.